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THE NILE TKIBUTARIES 
OF ABYSSINIA, 



SWOED HUNTERS OF THE HAMRAA^ ARAKS. 



BY 

SIR SAMUEL W. BA.KER, M.A. F.R.G.S. 

GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY ; 

GRANDE MEDAILLE d'OR DE LA SOCIETB DE GjfiOGRAPHIE DE PARIS ; 

AUTHOR OF THE "ALBERT n'yANZA GREAT BASIN OF THE NILE," "EIGHT YEARS' 

■WANDERINGS IN CEYLOxV," "THE RIFLE A SD THK HOUND IN 

ETC. ETC. 




FOURTH EDITION. 



B. LIPPINCOTT AND CO 

1868. 




\_The Ri(jht of Trans/afion is reserved.} 






t-v 



By tretnsfar 

DEC 6 1i^: . 



1 DEDICATE THIS BOOK, 

WITH SPECIAL PEEMISSIOH, 

tP ^0 lis govd iigljwss %\htxt misnth, 
^ PRINCE OF WALES, 



jj 



AS THE FIRST OF 
ENGLAND'S EOYAL RACE 

WHO HAS SAILED UPON THE WATEES OF 

THE NILE; 

THE LAKE SOURCES OF WHICH MIGHTY RIVER ARE HONOURED 

BY THE NAMES OF 

HIS AUGUST PAEENTS. 




PREFACE 



The work entitled "The Albert N'yanza Great Basin of 
the !N'ile," published in 1866, has given an account of 
the equatorial lake system from which the Egyptian 
river derives its source. It has been determined by the 
joint explorations of Speke, Grant, and myself, that the 
rainfall of the equatorial districts supplies two vast 
lakes, the Victoria and the Albert, of sufficient volume 
to support the Nile throughout its entire course of 
thirty degrees of latitude. Thus the parent stream, fed 
by never-failing reservoirs, supplied by the ten months' 
rainfall of the equator, rolls steadily on its way through 
arid sands and burning deserts until it reaches the 
Delta of Lower Egypt. 

It would at first sight appear that the discovery of 
the lake sources of the Nile had completely solved the 
mystery of ages, and that the fertility of Egypt depended 
upon the rainfall of the equator concentrated in the 
lakes Victoria and Albert ; but the exploration of the 
Nile tributaries of Abyssinia divides the Nile system 



viii PREFACE. 

into two proportions, and unravels the entire mystery 
of the river, by assigning to each its due share in 
ministering to the prosperity of Egypt. 

The lake sources of Central Africa support the Kfe of 
Egypt, by supplying a stream, throughout all seasons, 
that has sufficient volume to support the exhaustion of 
evaporation and absorption; but this stream, if unaided, 
could never overflow its banks, and Egypt, thus deprived 
of the annual inundation, would simply exist, and culti- 
vation would be confined to the close vicinity of the 
river. 

The inimdation, which by its annual deposit of mud 
has actually created the Delta of Lower Egypt, upon 
the overflow of which the fertility of Egypt depends, 
has an origin entirely separate from the lake-sources 
of Central Africa, and the supply of water is derived 
exclusively from Abyssinia. 

The two grand affluents of Abyssinia are, the Blue 
Mle and the Atbara, which join the main stream 
respectively in !N". lat. 15° 30' and 17'' 37'. These rivers, 
although streams of extreme grandeur during the period 
of the Abyssinian rains, from the middle of June until 
September, are reduced during the dry months to utter 
insignificance; the Blue Nile becoming so shallow as to 
be unnavigable, and the Atbara perfectly dry. At that 
time the water supply of Abyssinia having ceased, 
Egypt depends solely upon the equatorial lakes and the 



PREFACE. ix 

affluents of the White Mle, until the rainy season shall 
again have flooded the two great Abyssinian arteries. 
That flood occurs suddenly about the 20th of June, and 
the grand rush of water pouring down the Blue Nile 
and the Atbara into the parent channel, inundates Lower 
Egypt, and is the cause of its extreme fertility. 

Not only is the inundation the effect of the Abyssinian 
rains, but the deposit of mud that has formed the Delta, 
and which is annually precipitated by the rising waters, 
is also due to the Abyssinian streams, more especially 
to the river Atbara, which, known as the Bahr el Aswat 
(Black Eiver), carries a larger proportion of soil than any 
other tributary of the Nile; therefore, to the Atbara, 
above all other rivers, must the wealth and fertility of 
Egypt be attributed. 

It may thus be stated : The equatorial lakes feed Egypt ; 
but the Abyssinian rivers cause the inundation. 

This being a concise summary of the Nile system, I 
shall describe twelve months' exploration, during which 
I examined every individual river that is tributary to 
the Nile from Abyssinia, including the Atbara, Settite, 
Royan, Salaam, Angrab, Eahad, Dinder, and the Blue 
Nile. The interest attached to these portions of Africa 
differs entirely from that of the White Nile regions, as 
the whole of Upper Egypt and Abyssinia is capable of 
development, and is inhabited by races either Moham- 
medan or Christian; while Central Africa is peopled by 



X PREFACE, 

a hopeless race of savages, for whom there is no prospect 
of civilization. 

The exploration of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia 
occupied the first twelve months of my journey towards 
the Mle sources. During this time, I had the oppor- 
tunity of learning Arabic and of studying the character 
of the people ; both necessary acquirements, which led to 
my ultimate success in reaching the "Albert I^'yanza." 
As the readers of the work of that title are aware, I was 
accompanied throughout the entire journey by my wife, 
who, with extraordinary hardihood and devotion, shared 
every difficulty with which African travel is beset. 




CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

ABOVE THE CATARACT. 

Sterility — Arrival at Korosko — Twenty-six Days from Cairo — The 
Nubian Desert — Nature's Pyramids — Volcanic Bombs — The Stony 
Sea — The Camel's Grave — The Crows of Moorahd— A delicious 
Draught — Rocks of the Desert — The perished Regiment — Arrival 
at the Nile — Distance from Korosko — Gazelles of the Desert — 
Dryness of the Atmosphere — Arrival at Berber — Halleem Effendi's 
Garden — Halleem gives Advice — The Nile rising — Visit of the 
Ladies — The Pillars of Sand — The Governor's Friendship — Save 
me from my Friends Page 1 — 18. 



CHAPTER II. 

The Cairo Dragoman Mahomet — Mahomet forsakes his Pistols— The 
Route to the Atbara— The Dry Bed of the River — The Dome 
Palm — Preparation of the Fruit — Pools of the Atbara — Collection 
of Birds— Charms of the Desert — SuflFering of Men and Beasts — 
CoUodabad — Hippopotamus kills the Arab — Daring Feat of tlie 
Fish-Eagle — Hippopotamus-shooting — Hippopotami bagged — De- 
light of the Arabs — Fishing — Catch a Tartar — Lose my Turtle 
Soup — Gazelle-shooting — The Speed of the Gazelle— Preparation 
of Water-skins — Tanning the Hides— Shoot a Crocodile — The 
River comes down — The mighty Stream of the Atbara — Change 
in the Season Page 19 — 38. 



5di CONTENTS, 

CHAPTEK III. 

WILD ASSES OP THE DESERT. 

My First and Last — Appetite for raw Meat — The Bishareen Arabs— 
Gozerajup — The First Kain — Limits of the Desert — The Hadeii- 
dowa Arabs — The Wells of Soojalup — Antelopes — Antelope Stalk- 
ing — Arab Migrations — The Arab's Prayer — The Barren Women 
— ^Difficulty in fording the River Gash — Arrive at Cassala — Hos- 
pitality of the Greek Merchant Page 39 — 50. 

OHAPTEE IV. 

ROUTE FROM CASSALA TO SOUAKIM. 

Facilities of the Port of Souakim — Fortifi.cations of Cassala — Conquest 
of Nubia — Cruel Taxation — Extreme Cheapness of Corn — Culti- 
vation of Cereals — Arab Bread — Military Position of Cassala — 
The Base— Prepare to start from Cassala — Mahomet's Family Tree 
— Mahomet meets Relations — We cross the Gash — Stalking the 
Ariel — Bagged the Game — Descent of Vultures — Change of 
Scenery — The Source of the Delta — The Parent of Egypt. 

Page 50—63. 

CHAPTER V. * 

THE STORM. 

Cotton Farm of Malem Georgis — Ferocious Crocodiles — Shoot a 
Monster — ^The Public Enemy — Resistance of a Crocodile's Scales 
— ^Discover Gold — Heavy Action of the Camel — El Baggar selects 
a Hygeen — The Easy-goer, suitable for a Lady — Hooked Thorns of 
the Mimosa — We charge a Kittar Bush — The Scorpion's Strug — 
Sudden Deluge — A Regiment of Scorpions — Valley of the Atbara 
— The Migration of Camels— A Milk Diet— The Arab Exodus— 
The Desert Patriarch . Page 63—76. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI. 



SHEIK ACHMET ABOU SINN. 



The Arab Welcome — Abou Sinn's Advice — Arab Tribes of Nubia — A 
Hint to Octogenarians — Tlie Arab Pomade — The Arab Lady's 
Perfumery— The fatal Mixture— The Coiffure of the World— 
The Arab Woman's Head-dress — " The Dust became Lice through 
all Egypt"— The Arab Charms— The Rabat or Arab Kilt— Arab 
Weddings — No Divorce Court — ^Anointing with Oil — Nomadic 
Habits of the Arabs — ^Unchanging Customs of the Arabs — The 
Hand of God — Religion of the Arabs Page 77 — 91. 



CHAPTER VIT. 

THE DEPARTURE. 

First-class Hygeens— Travellmg Arrangements — The Evening Bivouac 
— The Junction of the Settite River — Sheik Atalan Wat Said — 
Abyssinian Frontier — Ismael Pasha burnt alive — Mek Nimmur — 
The Enemy of Egypt — Arrival at Sofi — The Reception— Position 
of Sofi— Florian, the German Settler— The Cattle Fly— Peculiari- 
ties of the Seasons — The New Camp — I become a Householder — 
Arrangement of our Establishment — My "Baby" — An African 
Elysium— No Pipe !— The Elements at Work . . Page 91—106. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT. 

Go into Half Mourning— " Child of the Fever"— The Arab M.D.— 
Arab Fondness for Relics — The Pest Spots of the World — The 
Dangers of Holy Shrines — Arrival of the Holy Body — The Faky's 
Grave — Arab Doctoring — Delights of Arab Surgery — The Pig and 
the Koran — Sword Hunters of the Hamran Arabs — The Arab 
Shields — Hints for carrying the Sword — Keenness of the Edge — 
Arab Swordsmanship — The Aggageers — Elephant-hunting with the 



CONTENTS. 

Sword — Arab disabled by his own Sword — Maria Theresa — Great 
Failure — The Baboons and the Crocodile^The drowned Elephant 
— Game on the East Bank — Capabilities of the Soil — Tanning of 
Leather — Native Baskets and Matting — Bacheet is too attentive — 
" Oh Bacheet ! you Ignoramus ! " — Ferocity of the Seroot Fly — 
Cross the Atbara — The Impromptu Eaft — Stalking Giraffes — 
Within Eange— The First Rush of the Herd— The Retreat of the 
Giraffes — Death of the Giraffes — Passage of the River — The Giraffe 
Sentry — A difficult Stalk — The Seroot Fly takes possession — 
Giraffe Steaks — A Hunt for the T^tel — Floating Meat across a 
River — Buoy for Men and Cargo — Scare the Crocodiles — The 
Lions devour the Giraffe — Arab Music — Arrange to cross the 
River Fage 106—139. 



CHAPTER IX 

FORM A. RAFT WITH THE SPONGING BATH. 

The Impromptu Ferry — Achmet is tempted by Satan — Mahomet's 
Relative absconds — End of the Rainy Season — The Seroot Fly 
disappears — The " Till " — Preparations for Fishing — " That was a 
Monster ! " — The " Bayard " — Masara the Slave — Cross the Penin- 
sula to Settite — Jungle Cooking — A miserable Night — Shoot badly 
— Fishing in the Atbara — A good Run — ^Another Monster — 
Bacheet lands him — The Baboons visit us — The Coor — Wild 
Vegetables — Death of Atalan Wat Said — Catch a Baggar — Fish- 
salting — The Arbour Page 140 — 157. 



CHAPTER X. 

A PEW NOTES AT EHETILLA. 

Fire the Valley — Arrival of Birds — Seized by a Crocodile — Audacity 
of the Buzzard— The Abomination of Thorns — Boa Constrictor — 
The Baboons hunt for Berries — Masses of small Birds — Cunning 
of the Crocodile — Method of seizing its Prey — Horse-dealing — 
Arab Saddles and Bits— Arrive at Sherif el Ibrahim — Arrived at 
the Settite — Recall of Mahomet — Sheik Achmet Wat el N^gur — 
Mansfield Parkyns — Advantages of a " Sweet Name " — Elephants 



CONTENTS. XV 

destroy the Crops — An Invitation to shoot — The Hippo challenges 
Bacheet — A good Shot — A Eush at the Carcase — Elephants at 
Night— Kill an Elephant Page 157—174. 



CHAPTER XI. 

THE FORD. 

Girls carried away by the Rapids — An amphibious Arab Girl — 
Search for the drowned Girl — The Corpse recovered — Thp Sheik 
lays down the Law — "The Fact is simply impossible"^ — The 
Sheik's Idea of Matrimony— The Duties of his Four Wives — 
The Maimed, the Halt, and the Blind — The Arab Fakeers or 
Priests—" All the Same with a little Difference "—The Cure for 
Frendeet — Arrival at Katariff — The Market Day — Scenes at the 
Fair — Custom of scarifying the Cheeks— The Galla Slave — Purchase 
her Freedom — Singular Misunderstanding — Mahomet's Explanation 
— Mek iNTimraur invades the Frontier — Mek Nimmur's Tactics — 
Insecurity of the Country — Mek Nimmur sends me his Compli- 
ments — Roder Sheriff's withered Arm — The Aggageers — Mixture 
for Bullets — We make Arrowroot — Florian's Hunter — Arrive at 
Geera — Follow a Herd of Elephants — Track up the Elephants — 
A tremendous Crash — A critical Position — The Forehead Shot — 
The Half-pound Explosive Shell — Recover my old wounded Ele- 
phant — Fraternize with the Sword Hunters . . Page 175 — 200. 



CHAPTER XII. 

OLD NEPTUNE JOINS THE PARTY. 

The Arab Centaurs — WUd Arab Horsemanship — Discipline of the 
Gun-bearers — Off goes the Gun, and its Master ! — Ombr^ga (Mother 
of the Thorn) — Leopard springs into the Camp — The Dog carried 
off— The BuU Elephant— The Forehead Shot fails— The Mountain 
Chain of Abyssinia — A Hunt after a Herd of Baboons — The Pri- 
soners — A Course after a Tetel — The Cry of Buffaloes — We hunt 
and capture — The Baboons take leave — The Valley of the Settite 
— The Bull Buffalo — The Island Camp — Mahomet hears the Lions 
—Tales of the Base Page 201—215. 



xvi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

THE LIONS FIND THE BUFFALO. 

We seek an Introduction — The Start of the Sword Hunters — The Bull 
Elephant — The " Baby " screams at him — The Fight, Sword in 
Hand — Abou Do's Blade tastes Blood — We find the Herd — Jali 
leads the Party — The Forehead Shot fairly proved — The Charge of 
the Phalanx — My " Baby " kicks viciously — Abou Do slashes the 
Sinew — The Boar wounds Richam — Old Moosa, the Sorcerer — 
Neptune and his Trident — The Beauty of the Settite — Borders of 
the River — The Hippopotamus Hunter — The Hippo is harpooned 
— A Cheer for Old Neptune — Death of the Hippopotamus — 
Character of Hippopotami — Habits of the Hippopotamus — Its 
Activity Pa^e 251— 232. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

A FOREBODING OF EVIL. 

Jali's Thigh is broken — Abou Do saves JaH — Extraordinary Dexterity 
— Jungle Surgery — We lose our best Man — My Tokrooris determine 
to desert — A little Diplomacy is required — The Sick are dosed — 
'^ Embrace him ! '' cried old Moosa — We become staunch Friends 
— Abou Do's Weaknesses — The Baobab — The Crop of Gum Arabic 
—The Rhinoceros— Now for a " Tally Ho ! "—The Hunt— Close 
to their Tails — " A Horse ! a Horse ! my Kingdom for a Horse ! " 
— The last Moment — Difficulty of Hunting — Power of Scent — 
Horns of the Rhinoceros — Peculiarity of the Rhinoceros — Rhi- 
noceros Snare — Barrake poisons herself — Attractive Food for 
Elephants — Florian killed by a Lion — Gloomy Prediction. 

Fage 232—251. 

CHAPTER XV. 

ANTELOPES ON THE SETTITE. 

The Camp at Delladilla — Trionis Nilotica — Fish linked to Reptiles — 
Scenes on the River's Margin— The Nellut {A. IStrepsiceros) — 
Swimming Rivers with a Horse— The Lion — The Liou Hunt — 
The Escape— The Bull Buffalo —Death of the Bull- The Arabs' 



CONTENTS. -xvli 

Tit-bi1>— The Arab Plan for making Fire— The Mehedehet Ante- 
lope — Sauve qui pent! — Nearly caught — Fire clears the Country 
— Discretion the better Part of Valour — The Camp in Danger — 
Nearly burnt out — Crocodile harpooning — The ugly little Statue 
— Harpooning the Hippopotamus — The Harpoon fixed — The Hippo 
determines to fight — The Lauces are blunted — Hor Mehetape — 
Geological Feati«es — Unpleasant Report of the Spies. 

Page 252—272. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

ABOU DO IS GREEDY. 

Departure of the Aggageers — Game returning from the River —A Bull 
Rhinoceros — We stalk the Rhinoceros — The Death — The Agga- 
geers poach upon my Manor — Their Prize dies — Taher Noor faces 
the Lion — We start fresh Game — A curious Shot — Bait for the 
Lions — Highly exciting — My Tokrooris don't like the Lion — The 
dying Lioness — Brought into Camp — Difficulty in tracking the 
Lions — The Lion visits our Camp — Vis a vis with a Lion — ^A Sur- 
prise — Tetel faces the wounded Lion — Wonderful Courage of the 
Horse — Lions' Claws worn as a Charm — We commence Soap-boiling 
■^— Savon a la Bete feroce — We bury poor Barrak6. Page 272 — 289. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

WE REACH THE ROTAN. 

Hor Mai Gubba — The Francohn Partridge — We watch for Game — 
Out with the Aggageers — The Banks of the Royan — We find a 
Bull Elephant — Helter-skelter — The Elephant at Bay — Roder 
with the withered Arm — The Sword wins the Day — The nimble 
Bas6 dine cheaply — The great Whirlpool — The Royan Junction 
with the Settite — A Bull Rhinoceros — Bacheet has to run — 
Visit to Mek Nimmur — Our Arabs decline to proceed — Obliged 
to threaten the Camels — The Troop on a Foray — Narrow Escape 
— The Rifle bursts — We march from the Settite — Interesting 
Route — Mineral Wealth of Abyssinia — Present to Mek Nimmur 
— The Abyssinian Minstrel — Richard Cceur de Lion — I part with 
my dear Maria Theresa — The Ghost of the departed Fiddler 

h 



xYiii CONTENTS. 

—The "Lay of the Last Minstrel "—My Introduction to Mek 
Nimniur — The Eeception — The poisonous Stream — Unfortunate 
Contretemps — Nimmur behaves like a Gentleman — Pharaoh's lean 
Kine Fage 289—313. 

CHAPTEE XVIII. 

A CAMEL FALLS, AND DISS. 

Arabs consume the Eaw Flesh— Arrival at the Bahr Salaam — Charac- 
ter of the Torrents — The Junction of the Angrab — Good Sport — 
Four lucky Hits — A Fall over a Cliff— We save the Camel — ■ 
Narrow Escape — The Hyeena enters the Tent — Hippotragus Ba- 
herii — The Base of the Abyssinian Alps — Delightful Country — 
Follow a Herd of Elephants — Aggahr takes tlie Lead — Fall at the 
Feet of Elephants — Benighted on our Return to Camp— " All's 
wellthat ends well" Pa^e 314— 326. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

SEND A PARTY TO RECONNOITRE. 

Ahead of the Camels— The Maarif— View from the Peak— The Rhi- 
noceros attacks the Horse — The BuUet saves him— Arrival of the 
Horses — The Rhinoceros Hunt — Ridden to bay — Arrival of Birds 
ot Prey — Habits of Vultures — The JMarabou Stork — Sight, not 
Scent, directs the Vulture — Abou Seen — "Last but not least'* — 
Route to 1\ alioot Guddabi — Arrive at the Atbara — Last View of 
the Atbara — The Atbara Exploration completed . Fage 327 — 338. 

CHAPTER XX. 

ARRIVAL AT METEMMA, OR GALLABAT. 

Poisonous Water — The Trade of Abyssinia — We encounter Mis- 
sionaries — The theological Blacksmith — The Missionaries' Medicine- 
Chest — Jemma, Sheik of the Tokrooris— The Egyptians' attack upon 
Gallabat — Settlement of the Tokrooris — Industry of the Tokrooris 
— Weapons, Type, and Character — The Colonization by Tokrooris 
— Honey Wine of Abyssinia — All drunk last Night — Distance 



CONTENTS. xix 

from an Act of Parliament — We leave Gallabat — A Row with the 
Tokrooris — I settle the Tokroori Champion — A real flat-nosed 
African Nigger — Death of Aggahr and Gazelle — Forced March 
to the Rahad— The Eiver Eahad Fage 339—354. 



CHAPTER XXL 

FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY ON THE BANKS OF THE RAHAD. 

Journey along the Rahad — Rich Country — We cross over to the Din- 
der — Ferocity of Crocodiles in that River — Character of the 
Dinder — Activity of the African Elephant — ^Distinction of Species 
— Peculiarity of Form — African and Indian Elephants — Destruc- 
tion of Forests — Elephant's Foot a Luxury — Preservation of Flesh 
and Fat for the March — Preparation of Bread for a Journey — The 
Bos Caffer — The most formidable Animals — Rifles for wild Coun- 
tries — Sundry Hints — Bullets for large Game — Antelopes of 
Central Africa and Abyssinia Fage 354 — 369. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

WE LEAVE THE DINDER. 

Curious Hunting Party — Character of Abyssinian Rivers — Borassus 
jEthiopicus — Rufaar and the Arab Sheik — The Blue Nile — The 
very gentlemanly Faky — Regularly "sold" — Arrival at Khar- 
toum — The British Lion — The Zoological Collection — The Os- 
triches invite themselves to Tea — I intercede for ISIek Nimmur — 
King Theodore's Ultimatum — Climate of the Soudan — The Sageer 
or Water-wheel — Uncontrolled Action of the Nile — Suggestions 
for the Irrigation of Egypt — Whj should not Science create a 
Delta ? — A Series of Weii's upon the Nile — The Benefits to Egypt 
and to Civilization — Ancient Works of Irrigation in Ceylon — In- 
dustrious Population of Egypt — Capabilities for producing Cotton 
— The Great Sahara— The Race of Life — Prepare to discover the 
White Nile Source Fage 370—389. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

From Original Sketches hy Sir S. "W. Baker. 

PAGE 

PORTRAITS ............... Frontispiece 

GAZELLE-STALKING IN THE DESERT 12 

THE DESERT JOURNEY 67 

THE SEROOT FLY 126 

EIRST RUSH OF THE GIRAFFES 130 

THE BAYARD . , . 146 

THE COOR 153 

THE BAGGAR 156 

QUARREL OVER A HIPPOPOTAMUS 172 

ARABS ATTACKING THE ELEPHANT WITH THE SWORD 219 

THE RHINOCEROS HUNT. TAHER SHERIFF LEADS 244 

HEAD OF THE BLACK RHINOCEROS ' . , . 246 

HORNS OF THE MAARIF ANTELOPE 261 

THE RHINOCEROSES HAYE IT ALL THEIR OWN WAY 262 

HARPOONING THE CROCODILE 267 

HARPOONING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS 268 

THE FIGHT WITH THE BULL HIPPO 269 

GAME RETURNING FROM THE RIVER 273 

THE DYING LIONESS 282 

CLOSE QUARTERS WITH THE LION 284 

THE SWORD WINS THE DAY 296 

THE WHIRLPOOL AT THE ROYAN JUNCTION 298 

HEAD OF MEHEDEHET (72. Elli'psiprymna) 318 

UNPROVOKED ATTACK OF A RHINOCEROS UPON THE HORSE . . . 830 

THE RHINOCEROS RIDDEN TO BAY ' 332 



THE 

NILE TRIBUTAEIES OF ABYSSINIA, 

AND THE 

SWOED HLmXERS OF THE HAMRA.N ARABS. 
CHAPTEE I. 

ABOVE THE CATARACT. 

Without troubling the public with a description of that 
portion of the Nile to the north of the first cataract, or 
with a detailed account of the Egyptian ruins, that 
have been visited by a thousand tourists/ I will com- 
mence by a few extracts from my journal, written at 
the close of the boat voyage from Cairo : — 

''May 8, 1861.— ^o air. The thermometer 104° Eahr. ; 
a stifling heat. Becalmed, we have been lying the 
entire day below the ruins of Philse. These are the 
most imposing monuments of the Mle, owing to their 
peculiar situation upon a rocky island that commands 
the passage of the river above the cataract. The banks 
of the stream are here hemmed in by ranges of hills 
from 100 to 250 feet high ; these are entirely destitute 
of soil, being composed of enormous masses of red 
granite, piled block upon block, the rude masonry of 
Nature that has walled in the river. The hollows 
between the hills are choked with a yellow sand, which, 
drifted by the wind, has, in many instances, completely 
iilled the narrow valleys. Upon either side of the Nile 
are vestiges of ancient forts. The land appears as 

B 



2 STERILITY. [chap. i. 

tliougli it bore the curse of Heaven ; misery, barrenness, 
and the heat of a furnace are its features. The glowing- 
rocks, devoid of a trace of vegetation, reflect the sun 
with an intensity that must be felt to be understood. 
The miserable people who dwell in villages upon the 
river's banks snatch every sandbank from the retiring- 
stream, and immediately plant their scanty garden with 
melons, gourds, lentils, &c. this being their only resource 
for cultivation. Not an inch of available soil is lost ; 
but day by day, as the river decreases, fresh rows of 
vegetables are sown upon the newly -acquired land. At 
Assouan, the sandbanks are purely sand brought down 
by the cataracts, therefore soil must be added to enable 
the people to cultivate. They dig earth from the ruins 
of the ancient town ; this they boat across the river 
and spread upon the sandbank, by which excessive 
labour they secure sufficient mould to support their 
crops. 

In the vicinity of Philse the very barrenness of the 
scenery possesses a charm. The iron-like sterility of 
the granite rocks, naked except in spots where the wind 
has sheeted them with sand ; the groves of palms 
springing unexpectedly into view in this desert wilder- 
ness, as a sudden bend of the river discovers a village; 
the ever blue and never clouded sky above, and, the 
only blessing of this blighted land, the Nile, silently 
flowing between its stern walls of rocks towards the 
distant land of Lower Egypt, form a total that produces 
a scene to be met with nowhere but upon the Nile. 
In this miserable spot the unfortunate inhabitants are 
taxed equally with those of the richer districts — about 
fivepence annually for each date palm. 

" May 9. — A good breeze, but tremendous heat. 
Although the floor and the curtains of the cabin are con- 
tinually wetted, and the Venetian blinds are closed, the 
thermometer, at 4 P.M., stood at 105° in the shade ; and 
upon deck, 137^ in the sun. This day we passed the 
ruins of several small temples. The country is generally 
rocky, with intervals of ten or twelve miles of desert 
plains. 



CHAP. I.] ARRIVAL AT KOROSKO. 3 

" May 10. — Fine breeze, the boat sailing well. Passed 
several small temples. The henna grows in considerable 
quantities on the left bank of the river. The leaf 
resembles that of the myrtle ; the blossom has a 
powerful fragrance ; it gTows like a feather, about 
eighteen inches long, forming a cluster of small yellow 
flowers. The day pleasantly cool ; thermometer, 95°. 

" May 11. — At 5 a.m. we arrived at Korosko ; lat. 22" 
50' IST. ; the halting-place for all vessels from Lower 
Egypt w^ith merchandise for the Soudan." 

At this wretched spot the Nile is dreary beyond 
description, as a vast desert, unenlivened by cultivation, 
forms its borders, through which the melancholy river 
rolls towards Low^er Egypt in the cloudless glare of a 
tropical sun. Erom whence came this extraordinary 
stream that could flow through these burning sandy 
deserts, unaided by tributary channels ? That was the 
mysterious question as we stepped upon the shore now, 
to commence our land journey in search of the distant 
sources. We climbed the steep sandy bank, and sat 
down beneath a solitary sycamore. 

We had been tw^enty-six days sailing from Cairo 
to this point. The boat returned, and left us on the 
east bank of the Mle, mth the great Nubian desert 
before us. 

Korosko is not rich in supplies. A few miserable 
Arab huts, with the usual fringe of dusty date palms, 
compose the village ; the muddy river is the frontier on 
the w^est, the burning desert on the east. Thus hemined 
in, Korosko is a narrow strip of a few yards' width on 
the margin of the Nile, with only one redeeming feature 
in its wretchedness- — the green shade of the old sycamore 
beneath which we sat. 

I had a firman from the Viceroy, a cook, and a dra- 
goman. Thus my impedimenta were not numerous. The 
firman was an order to all Egyptian of&cials for assist- 
ance ; the cook was dirt}^ and incapable ; and the 
interpreter was nearlv ignorant of English, although a 
])rofessed polyglot. With this small beginning, Africa 
was before me, and thus I commenced the search for 

b2 



4 THE NUBIAN DESERT. [chap. i. 

the Nile sources. Absurd as tliis may appear, it was 
a correct commencement. Ignorant of Arabic, T could 
not have commanded a large party, who would have 
been at the mercy of the interpreter or dragoman ; 
thus, the first qualification necessary to success was a 
knowledge of the language. 

After a delay of some days, I obtained sixteen camels 
from the sheik. I had taken the precaution to provide 
water-barrels, in addition to the usual goat- skins ; and, 
with a trustworthy guide, we quitted Korosko on the 
16th May, 1861, and launched into the desert. 

The route from Korosko across the Nubian desert cuts 
off the chord of an arc made by the great westerly bend 
of the Mle. This chord is about 230 miles in length. 
Throughout this barren desert there is no water, except 
at the half-way station, Moorahd (from moorra, bitter) ; 
this, although salt and bitter, is relished by camels. 
During the hot season in which we unfortunately 
travelled, the heat was intense, the thermometer ranging 
from 106° to 114° Fahr, in the shade. The parching 
blast of the simoom was of such exhausting power, 
that the water rapidly evaporated from the closed water- 
skins. It was, therefore, necessary to save the supply 
by a forced march of seven days, in which period we 
were to accomplish the distance, and to reach Abou 
Hammed, on the southern bend of the welcome Mle. 

During the cool months, from November until Feb- 
ruary, the desert journey is not disagreeable; but the 
vast area of glowing sand exposed to the scorching sun 
of summer, in addition to the withering breath of the 
simoom, renders the forced march of 230 miles in seven 
days, at two and a half miles per hour, the most 
fatiguing journey that can be endured. 

Farewell to the Nile ! We turned our backs upon the 
life-giving river, and our caravan commenced the silent 
desert march. 

A few hours from Korosko the misery of the scene 
surpassed description. Glowing like a furnace, the vast 
extent of yellow sand stretched to the horizon. Rows of 
broken hills, all of volcanic origin, broke the flat plain. 



CHAP. I.] VOLCANIC BOMBS. 5 

Conical tumuli of volcanic slag here and there rose to 
the height of several hundred feet, and in the far dis- 
tance resembled the Pyramids of Lower Egypt — doubtless 
they were the models for that ancient and everlasting 
architecture ; hills of black basalt jutted out from the 
barren base of sand, and the molten air quivered on 
the overheated surface of the fearful desert. 114° Fahr. 
in the shade under the water-skins ; 137° in the sun. 
Noiselessly the spongy tread of the camels crept along 
the sand — the only sound was the rattle of some loosely 
secured baggage of their packs. The Arab camel-drivers 
followed silently at intervals, and hour by hour we struck 
deeper into the solitude of the Nubian desert. 

We entered a dead level plain of orange-coloured sand, 
surrounded by pyramidical hills : the surface was strewn 
with objects resembling cannon shot and grape of all 
sizes from a 32-pounder downwards — the spot looked 
like the old battle-field of some infernal region ; rocks 
glowing with heat — not a vestige of vegetation — barren, 
withering desolation. — The slow rocking step of the 
camels was most irksome, and despite the heat, I dis- 
mounted to examine the Satanic bombs and cannon shot. 
Many of them were as perfectly round as though cast 
in a mould, others were egg-shaped, and all were hollow. 
With some difficulty I broke them, and found them to 
contain a bright red sand : they were, in fact, volcanic 
bombs that had been formed by the ejection of molten 
lava to a OTeat heioht from active volcanoes ; these had 
become globular in falling, and, having cooled before 
they reached the earth, they retained their forms as hard 
spherical bodies, precisely resembling cannon shot. The 
exterior was brown, and appeared to be rich in iron. 
The smaller specimens were the more perfect spheres, 
as they cooled quickly, but many of the lieavier masses 
had evidently reached the earth when only half solidified, 
and had collapsed upon falling. The sandy plain was 
covered with such vestiges of volcanic action, and the 
infernal bombs lay as imperishable relics of a hail-storm 
such as may have destroyed Sodom and Gomorrah. 

Passing through this wretched solitude we entered 



6 THE STONY SEA. [chap. i. 

upon a scene of surpassing desolation. Far as the eye 
could reach were waves like a stormy s^a, grey, cold- 
looking waves in the burning heat ; but no drop of 
water : it appeared as though a sudden curse had turned 
a raging sea to stone. The simoom blew over this 
horrible wilderness, and drifted the hot sand into the 
crevices of the rocks, and the camels drooped their 
heads before the suffocating wind ; but still the caravan 
noiselessly crept along over the rocky undulations, until 
the stormy sea was passed : once more we were upon 
a boundless plain of sand and pebbles. 

Here every now and then we discovered withered 
melons {Cucumis colocynthis) ; the leaves had long since 
disappeared, and the shrivelled stalks were brittle as 
glass. They proved that even the desert had a season 
,of life, however short ; but the desert fruits were bitter. 
So intensely bitter was the dry white interior of these 
melons, that it exactly resembled quinine in taste ; when 
rubbed between the fingers, it became a fine white 
powder. The Arabs use tliis medicinally ; a small piece 
placed in a cup of milk, and allowed to stand for a 
few hours, renders the draught a strong aperient. The 
sun — that relentless persecutor of the desert traveller 
— sank behind the western hills, and the long wished for 
night arrived ; cool, delicious night ! the thermometer 
78° Fahr. a difference of 36° between the shade of day. 

The guide commanded the caravan, — he was the desert 
pilot, and no one dared question his directions; he 
ordered a halt for two hours' rest. This was the usual 
stage and halting-place by the side of a perpendicular 
rock, the base of which was strewn thick with camel's 
dung ; this excellent fuel soon produced a blazing fire, 
the coffee began to boil, and fowls were roasting for a 
hasty dinner. A short snatch of sleep upon the sand, 
and the voice of the guide again disturbed us. The 
camels had not been unloaded, but had lain down to 
rest with their packs, and had thus eaten their feed 
of dhurra {Sorghum mdgare) from a mat. In a few 
minutes we started, once more the silent and mono- 
tonous desert march 1 



CHAP. I.J THE CAMEVS GRAVE. 7 

In the cool night I preferred walking to the uneavsy 
motion of the camel ; the air was most invigorating 
after the intense heat of the day and the prostration 
caused by the simoom. The desert had a charm by night, 
as the horizon of its nakedness was limited; the rocks 
assumed fantastic shapes in the bright moonlight, and 
the profound stillness produced an effect of the super- 
natural in that wild and mysterious solitude ; the Arab 
belief in the genii and afreet, and all the demon enemies 
of man, was a na^tural consequence of a wandering life 
in this desert wilderness, where nature is hostile to all 
living beings. 

In forty-six hours and forty-five minutes' actual 
marching from Korosko we reached Moorahd, " the 
bitter well." 

This is a mournful spot, well known to the tired and 
thirsty camel, the hope of reaching which has urged 
him fainting on his weary way to drink one draught 
before he dies : this is the camel's grave. Situated half 
way between Korosko and Abou Hammed, the well 
of Moorahd is in an extinct crater, surrounded upon 
aU sides but one by precipitous cliffs about 300 feet 
high. The bottom is a dead flat, and forms a valley of 
sand about 250 yards wide. In this bosom of a crater, 
salt and bitter water is found at a depth of only six 
feet from the surface. To this our tired camels fran- 
tically rushed npon being unloaded. 

The valley was a " valley of dry bones." Innumer- 
able skeletons of camels lay in all directions ; the ships 
of the desert thus stranded on their voyage. Withered 
heaps of parched skin and bone lay here and there, in 
the distinct forms in which the camels had gasped their 
last ; the dry desert air had converted the hide into a 
coffin. There were no flies here, thus there were no 
worms to devonr the carcases ; but the usual sextons 
were the crows, although sometimes too few to perform 
their office. These were perched upon the overhanging 
cliffs ; but no sooner had our overworked camels taken 
their long draught and lain down exhausted on the 
sand, than by common consent they descended from 



8 THE GROWS OF MOORAHD. [chap. i. 

their high places, and v/alked round and round eacK 
tired beast. 

As many wretched animals simply crawl to this spot 
to die, the crows, from long experience and constant 
practice, can form a pretty correct diagnosis upon the 
case of a sick camel ; they had evidently paid a pro- 
fessional visit to my caravan, and were especially atten- 
tive in studying the case of one particular camel that 
was in a very weakly condition and had stretched itself 
full length upon the sand ; nor would they leave it 
until it was driven forward. 

The heat of Moorahd was terrific ; there was no shade 
of any kind, and the narrow valley surrounded by 
glowing rocks formed a natural oven. The intense 
dryness of the overheated atmosphere was such, that 
many of our water-skins that appeared full were nearly 
empty; the precious supply had evaporated through the 
porous leather, and the skins were simply distended by 
the expanded air within. Fortunately I had taken 
about 108 gallons from Korosko, and I possessed a grand 
reserve in my two barrels which could not waste ; these 
were invaluable as a resource when the supply in the 
skins should be exhausted. My Arab camel-men were 
supposed to be provided with their own private supply ; 
but, as^ they had calculated upon stealing from my 
stock, in which they were disappointed, they were on 
exceedingly short allowance, and were suffering much 
from thirst. During our forced march of three days 
and a half, it had been impossible to perform the 
usual toilette, therefore, as water was life, washing 
had been out of the question. Moorahd had been 
looked forward to as the spot of six hours' rest, 
where we could indulge in the luxury of a bath on 
a limited scale after the heat and fatigue of the journey. 
Accordingly, about two quarts of water were measured 
into a large Turkish copper basin; the tent, although 
the heat was unendurable, was the only dressing-room, 
and the two quarts of water, with a due proportion 
of soap, having washed two people, was about to be 
thrown away, when the Arab guide, who had been 



CHAP. I.] ROCKS OF THE DESERT. 9 

waiting liis opportunity, snatched the basin from the 
servant, and in the agony of thirst drank nearly the 
whole of its contents, handing the residue to a brother 
Arab, with the hearty ejaculation, " El hambd el Illah ! " 
(Thank God!) 

My wife was seriously ill from the fatigue and intense 
heat, but there can be no halt in the desert; dead or 
alive, with the caravan you must travel, as the party 
depends upon the supply of water. A few extracts 
verbatim from my journal will describe the journey : — 

" May m— Started at 12.30 P.M. and halted at 6.30. 
Off again at 7.30 p.m. till 2.45 a.m. About four miles 
from Moorahd, grey granite takes the place of the 
volcanic slagj and schist that formed the rocks to that 
point. The desert is now a vast plain, bounded by a 
range of rugged hills on the south. On the north side 
of Moorahd, at a distance of above eight miles, slate is 
met wdth ; this continues for about three miles of the 
route, but it is of impure quality, with the exception 
of one vein, of a beautiful blue colour. A few miserable 
stunted thorny mimosas are here to be seen scattered 
irregularly, as though lost in this horrible desert." 

Many years ago, when the Egyptian troops first 
conquered Nubia, a regiment was destroyed by thirst 
in crossing this desert. The men, being upon a limited 
allowance of water, suffered from extreme thirst, and 
deceived by the appearance of a mirage that exactly 
resembled a beautiful lake, they insisted on being taken 
to its banks by the Arab guide. It was in vain that 
the guide assured them that the lake was unreal, and 
he refused to lose the precious time by wandering from 
his course. Words led to blows, and he was killed by 
the soldiers, whose lives depended upon his guidance. 
The whole regiment turned from the track and rushed 
towards the welcome waters. Thirsty and faint, over 
the burning sands they hurried ; heavier and heavier 
their footsteps became — hotter and hotter their breath, 
as deeper they pushed into the desert — farther and 
farther from the lost track where the pilot lay in his 
blood; and still the mocking spirits of the desert, the 



10 ARRIVAL AT THE NILE. [chap. i. 

afreets of tlie mirage, led them on, and the lal^e 
glistening in the sunshine tempted them to bathe in 
its cool waters, close to their eyes, but never at their 
lips. At length the delusion vanished — the fatal lake 
had turned to burning sand ! Eaging thirst and horrible 
despair ! the pathless desert and the murdered guide ! 
lost ! lost ! all lost ! Not a man ever left the desert, 
but they were subsequently discovered, parched and 
withered corpses, by the Arabs sent upon the search. 

" May M. — Started at 5.45 a.m. till 8.45 ; again, at 
1.45 P.M. till 7 P.M. ; again, at 9.30 P.M. till 4 a.m. Saw 
two gazelles, the first living creatures, except the crows 
at Moorahd, that we have seen since we left Korosko ; 
there must be a supply of water in the mountains 
known only to these animals. Thermometer, 111° Fahr. 
in the shade ; at night, 78°. The water in the leather 
bottle that I repaired is deliciously cool. IST.B. — In 
sewing leather bottles or skins for holding water, no 
thread should be used, but a leathern thong, which 
should be dry ; it will then swell when wetted, and 
the seam wiU be watertight. 

''May ^^.— Started at 5.30 A.M. tiU 9.30; again, at 
2.15 P.M. till 7.15 P.M. Eested to dine, and started 
again at 8.30 P.M. till 4.25 A.M. ; reaching Abou Hammed, 
thank heaven ! 

" Yesterday evening we passed through a second chain 
of rugged hills of grey granite, about 600 feet high, 
and descended through a pass to an extensive plain, in 
which rose abruptly, like huge pyramids, four granite 
hiUs, at great distances apart. So exactly do they 
resemble artificial pyramids at a distance, that it is 
difficult to believe they are natural objects. I feel 
persuaded that the ancient Egyptians took their designs 
for monuments and buildings from the hills themselves, 
and raised in the plains of Lower Egypt artificial 
pyramids in imitation of the granite hills of this form. 
Their temples were in form like many of the granite 
ranges, and were thoroughly encased with stone. The 
extraordinary massiveness of these works suggests that 
Nature assisted the design ; the stone columns are 



CHAP. I.] GREAT MORTALITY AMONGST CAMELS. 1 1 

imitations of the date palms, and the buildings are 
copies of the rocky hills — the two common features of 
Egyptian scenery. 

" Throughout the route from Korosko, the skeletons of 
camels number about eight per mile, with the exception 
of the last march on either side of the watering-place 
Moorahd, on which there are double that number, as 
the animals have become exhausted as they approach 
the well. In the steep pass through the hills, where 
the heat is intense, and the sand deep, the mortality 
is dreadful ; in some places I counted six and eight 
in a heap ; and this difficult portion of the route is a 
mass of bones, as every weak animal gives in at the 
trying place. 

" So dreadful a desert is this between Korosko and 
Abou Hammed, that Said Pasha ordered the route to 
be closed ; but it was re-opened upon the application 
of foreign consuls, as the most direct road to the Soudan. 
Our Bishareen Arabs are first-rate walkers, as they have 
performed the entire journey on foot. Their water and 
provisions were all exhausted yesterday, but fortmiately 
I had guarded the key of my two water-caslcs ; thus 
I had a supply when every water-skin was empty, and 
on the last day I divided my sacred stock amongst 
the men, and the still more thirsty camels. In the 
hot months, a camel cannot march longer than three 
days without drinking, unless at the cost of great 
suffering. 

" Having arrived here (Abou Hammed) at 4.25 this 
morning, 23d May, I had the luxury of a bath. The 
very sight of the Mle was delightful, after the parched 
desolation of the last seven days. The small village 
is utterly destitute of everything, and the sterile desert 
extends to the very margin of the Nile. The journey 
having occupied ninety-two hours of actual marching 
across the desert, gives 230 miles as the distance from 
Korosko, at the loaded-camel rate of two and a half 
miles per hour. The average duration of daily march 
has been upwards of thirteen hours, including a day's 
halt at Moorahd. My camels have arrived in tolerable 



12 ON TEE MARCH. [chap i. 

condition, as their loads did not exceed 400 lbs. each ; 
the usual load is 500 lbs. 

" May 24- — Kested both men and beasts. A caravan 
of about thirty camels arrived, having lost three during 
the route. 

" May 25. — Started at 5 A.M. The route is along the 
margin of the Mle, to which the desert extends. A 
fringe of stunted bushes, and groves of the coarse and 
inelegant dome palm, mark the banks of the river by 
a thicket of about half a mile in width. I saw many 
gazelles, and succeeded in stalking a fine buck, and 
killing him with a rifle. 

" May 26. — Marched ten hours. Saw gazelles, but so 
wild that it was impossible to shoot. Thermometer 
110° Fahr. 

" May 27. — Marched four hours and forty-five minutes, 
when we w^ere obliged to halt, as F. is very ill. In the 
evening I shot two gazelles, which kept the party in 
meat. 

" May 28. — Marched fifteen hours, to make up for the 
delay of yesterday. Shot a buck on the route. 

" May 29. — The march of yesterday cut off an angle 
of the river, and we made a straight course through 
the desert, avoiding a bend of the stream. At 7.30 
this morning we met the Mle again; the same character 
of country as before, the river full of rocks, and forming 
a succession of rapids the entire distance from Abou 
Hammed. Navigation at this season is impossible, and 
is most dangerous even at flood-time. The simoom is 
fearful, and the heat is so intense that it was impossible 
to draw the gun-cases out of their leather covers, which 
it was necessary to cut open. All woodwork is warped ; 
ivory knife-handles are split ; paper breaks when crunched 
in the hand, and the very marrow seems to be dried out 
of the bones by this horrible simoom. One of our camels 
fell down to die. Shot two buck gazelles ; I saw many, 
but they are very wild. 

" May SO. — The extreme dryness of the air induces 
an extraordinary amount of electricity in the hair, and 
in all woollen materials. A Scotch plaid laid upon a 




i«?^''«:''#|:1|fliriP' 



CHAP. I.] ARRIVAL AT BERBER. 13 

blanket for a few hours adheres to it, and upon being 
roughly withdrawn at night a sheet of flame is produced, 
accompanied by tolerably loud reports. 

" May 31. — After an early march of three hours and 
twenty minutes, we arrived at the town of Berber, on 
the Nile, at 9.35 a.m. We have been fifty-seven hours 
and five minutes actually marching from Abou Hammed, 
which, at two and a half miles per hour, equals 143 
miles. We have thus marched 373 miles from Korosko 
to Berber in fifteen days; the entire route is the mono- 
tonous Nubian desert. Our camels have averaged twenty- 
five miles per day, with loads of 400 lbs. at a cost of 
ninety piastres (about 19s.) each, for the whole distance. 
This rate, with the addition of the guide's expenses, 
equals about 5s. M. per 100 lbs. for carriage throughout 
373 miles of burning desert. Although this frightful 
country appears to be cut off from all communication 
with the world, the extremely low rate of transport 
charges affords great facility for commerce." * 

Berber is a large town, and in appearance is similar 
to the Nile towns of Lower Egypt, consisting of the 
usual dusty, unpaved streets, and flat-roofed houses of 
sun-baked bricks. It is the seat of a Governor, or 
Mudir, and is generally the quarters for about 1,500 
troops. We were very kindly received by Halleem 
Effendi, the ex-Governor, who at once gave us permission 
to pitch the tents in his garden, close to the Nile, on 
the southern outskirt of the town. After fifteen days 
of desert marching, the sight of a well-cultivated garden 
was an Eden in our eyes. About eight acres of land, 
on the margin of the river, were thickly planted with 
lofty date groves, and shady citron and lemon trees, 
beneath which we revelled in luxury on our Persian 
rugs, and enjoyed complete rest after the fatigue of our 
long journey. Countless birds were chirping and singing 
in the trees above us ; innumerable ring-doves were 

* Since thnt date, 31st May, 1861, the epidemic or cattle plague carried 
oil" an immense number of camels, and the chai-ges of transport rose in 
1864 and 1865 to a rate that completely paralysed the trade of Upper 
Egypt. 



14 KIND RECEPTION BY THE GOVERNOR, [chap. i. 

cooiDg in the sliady palms ; and the sudden change 
from the dead sterility of the desert to the scene of 
verdure and of life, produced an extraordinary effect 
upon the spirits. What caused this curious transition? 
Why should this charming oasis, teeming with vegetation 
and with life, be found in the yellow, sandy desert ? . . . 
Water had worked this change ; the spirit of the !N"ile, 
more potent than any genii of the Arabian fables, had 
transformed the desert into a fruitful garden. Halleem 
Effendi, the former Governor, had, many years ago, planted 
this garden, irrigated by numerous water-wheels ; and we 
now enjoyed the fruits, and thanked Heaven for its 
greatest blessings in that burning land, shade and cool 
water. 

The tents were soon arranged, the camels were paid 
for and discharged, and in the cool of the evening we 
were visited by the Governor and suite. 

The firman having been officially presented by the 
dragoman upon our arrival in the morning, the Governor 
had called with much civility to inquire into our pro- 
jects and to offer assistance. We were shortly seated 
on carpets outside the tent, and after pipes and coffee, 
and the usual preliminary compliments, my dragoman 
explained, that the main object of our journey was to 
search for the sources of the E'ile, or, as he described it, 
"the head of the river." 

Both the Governor and Halleem Effendi, with many 
officers who had accompanied them, were Turks ; but, 
in spite of the gravity and solidity for which the Turk 
is renowned, their faces relaxed into a variety oi' expres- 
sions at this (to them) absurd announcement. " The 
head of the Nile I " they exclaimed, " impossible ! " " Do 
they know^ w^here it is ? " inquired the Governor, of the 
dragoman ; and upon an explanation being given, that, 
as we did not know where it was, we had proposed to 
discover it, the Turks merely shook their heads, sipped 
their coffee, and took extra whiffs at their long pipes, 
until at length the white-haired old Halleem Effendi 
spoke. He gave good and parental advice, as follows :^- 
" Don't go upon so absurd an errand ; nobody knows 



CHAP. I.] RALLEEM EFFENDFS ADVICE. ^5 

aii}i;hing about the Nile, neither will any one discover 
its source. We do not even know the source of the 
Atbara ; how should we know the source of the great 
Nile ? A oreat portion of the Atbara flows through the 
Pasha of Egypt's dominions ; the firman in your posses- 
sion with his signature, will insure you respect, so long 
as you remain within his territory ; but if you cross his 
frontier, you will be in the hands of savages. The 
White Nile is the country of the negroes ; wild, ferocious 
races, who have neither knowledge of God nor respect 
for the Pasha, and you must travel with a powerful 
armed force ; the climate is deadly ; how could you 
penetrate such a region to search for what is useless, 
even should you attam it ? But how would it be pos- 
sible for a lady, young and delicate, to endure what 
would kill the strono-est man '( Travel alonsj the Atbara 
river into the Taka country, there is much to be seen 
that is unexplored ; but give up the mad scheme of the 
Nile source." 

There was some sense in old Halleem Effendi's advice ; 
it was the cool and cautious wisdom of old age, but as 
I was not so elderly, I took it " cum grano salis." He 
was a charming old gentleman, the perfect hcau ideal 
of the true old style of Turk, but few specimens of 
which remain ; all that he had said was spoken in 
sincerity, and I resolved to collect as much information 
as possible from the grey-headed authorities before I 
should commence the expedition. I was deej)ly im- 
pressed with one fact, that until I could dispense with 
an interpreter it would be impossible to succeed, there- 
fore I determined to learn Arabic as speedily as possible. 

A week's rest in the garden of Halleem Effendi pre- 
pared us for the journey. I resolved to explore the 
Atbara river and the Abyssinian affluents, prior to com- 
mencing the White Nile voyage. The Governor promised 
me two Turkish soldiers as attendants, and I arranged 
to send my heavy baggage by boat to Khartoum, and 
secure the advantage of travelling light ; a comfort that 
no one can appreciate who has not felt the daily delay 
in loading a long string of camels. Both my wife and 



16 VISIT OF THE LADIES. [chap. i. 

I had suffered from a short attack of fever brought on 
by the prostrating effect of the simoom, which at this 
season (June) was at its height. The Nile was slowly 
rising, although it was still low ; occasionally it fell 
about eighteen inches in one night, but again rose; this 
proved that, although the rains had commenced, they 
were not constant, as the steady and rapid increase of 
the river had not taken place. The authorities assured 
me that the Blue Mle was now rising at Khartoum, 
which accounted for the increase of the river at Berber. 

The garden of Halleem Effendi was attended by a 
number of fine powerful slaves from the White Nile, 
whose stout frames and glossy skins were undeniable 
witnesses of their master's care. A charmingly pretty 
slave girl paid us daily visits, with presents of fruit 
from her kind master and numerous mistresses, who, 
with the usual Turkish compliments as a preliminary 
message, requested permission to visit the English lady. 

In the cool hour of evening a bevy of ladies approached 
through the dark groves of citron trees, so gaily dressed 
in silks of the brightest dyes of yellow, blue, and scarlet, 
that no bouquet of flowers could have been more gaudy. 
They were attended by numerous slaves, and the head 
servant politely requested me to withdraw during the 
interview. Thus turned out of my tent, I was compelled to 
patience and solitude beneath a neighbouring date palm. 

The result of the interview with my wife was most 
satisfactory ; the usual womanish questions had been 
replied to, and hosts of compliments exchanged. AVe 
were then rich in all kinds of European trifles that 
excited their curiosity, and a few little presents esta- 
blished so great an amount of confldence that they gave 
the individual history of each member of the family 
from childhood, that would have filled a column of the 
Times with births, deaths, and marriages. 

Some of these ladies were very young and pretty, 
and of course exercised a certain influence over their 
husbands ; thus, on the following morning, we were 
inundated with visitors, as the male members of the 
family came to thank us for the manner in which their 



CHAP. I.] THE PILLARS OF SAND. 1 7 

ladies had been received ; and fruit, flowers, and the 
general produce of the garden were presented to us in 
profusion. However pleasant, there were drawbacks to 
our garden of Eden ; there was dust in our Paradise ; 
not the dust tliat we see in Europe upon unwatered 
roads, that simply fills the eyes, but sudden clouds raised 
by whirlwinds in the desert which fairly choked the 
ears and nostrils when thus attacked. June is the 
season when these phenomena are most prevalent. At 
that time the rains have commenced in the south, and 
are extending towards the north ; the cold aud heavy 
air of the southern rain-clouds sweeps down upon the 
overheated atmosphere of the desert, and produces sudden 
violent squalls and whirlwinds when least expected, as 
at that time the sky is cloudless. 

The effect of these desert whirlwinds is most curious, 
as their force is sufficient to raise dense columns of 
sand and dust several thousand feet high ; these are 
not the evanescent creations of a changing wind, but 
they frequently exist for many hours, and travel forward, 
or more usually in circles, resembling in the distance 
solid pillars of sand. The Arab superstition invests 
these appearances with the supernatural, and the mys- 
terious sand-column of the desert wandering in its 
burning solitude, is an evil spirit, a " Gin " (" genii " 
plural, of the Arabian Nights). I have frequently seen 
many such columns at the same time in the boundless 
desert, all travelling or waltziug in various directions at 
the wilful choice of each whirlwind : this vagrancy of 
character is an undoubted proof to the Arab mind of 
their independent and diabolical origin. 

The Abyssinian traveller, Bruce, appears to have enter- 
tained a peculiar dread of the dangers of such sand 
columns, but on this point his fear was exaggerated. 
Cases may have occurred where caravans have been 
suffocated by whMwinds of sand, but these are rare 
exceptions, and the usual effects of the dust storm are 
the unroofing of thatched huts, the destruction of a few 
date palms, and the disagreeable amount of sand that 
not only half chokes both man and beast, but buries 

c 



18 SAFE ME FROM MY FRIENDS. [chap. i. 

all objects that may be lying on the ground some inches 
deep in dust. 

The wind at this season (June) was changeable, and 
strong blasts from the south were the harbingers of the 
approaching rainy season. We had no time to lose, and 
we accordingly arranged to start. I discharged my dirty 
cook, and engaged a man who was brought by a coffee- 
house keeper, by whom he was highly recommended ; 
but, as a precaution against deception, I led him before 
the Mudir, or Governor, to be registered before our 
departure. To my astonishment, and to his infinite 
disgust, he was immediately recognised as an old 
offender, who had formerly been imprisoned for theft I 
The Governor, to prove his friendship, and his interest 
in my welfare, immediately sent the police to capture 
the coffee-house keeper who had recommended the cook. 
E"o sooner was the unlucky surety brought to the Divan 
than he was condemned to receive 200 lashes for having 
given a false character. The sentence was literally 
carried out, in spite of my remonstrance, and the police 
were ordered to make the case public to prevent a recur- 
rence. The Governor assured me, that as I held a firman 
from the Viceroy he could not do otherwise, and that I 
must believe him to be my truest friend. " Save me 
from my friends," was an adage quickly proved. I could 
not procure a cook, neither any other attendants, as 
every one was afraid to guarantee a character, lest he 
might come in for his share of the 200 lashes ! 

The Governor came to my rescue, and sent imme- 
diately the promised Turkish soldiers, who were to act 
in the double capacity of escort and servants. They 
were men of totally opposite characters. Hadji Achmet 
was a hardy, powerful, dare-devil-looking Turk, while 
Hadji Velli was the perfection of politeness, and as 
gentle as a lamb. My new allies procured me three 
donkeys in addition to the necessary baggage camels, 
and we started from the pleasant garden of Halleem 
Effendi on the evening of the 10th of June for the 
junction of the Atbara river with the Nile. 



CHAPTEE II. 

" 'Mongst them were several Englishmen of pith, 
Sixteen named Thompson, and nineteen named Smith." 

Don Juan. 

Mahomet, Aclimet, and Ali are equivalent to Smith, 
Brown, and Thompson. Accordingly, of my few attend- 
ants, my dragoman was Mahomet, and my principal guide 
was Achmet ; and subsequently T had a number of Alis. 
Mahomet was a regular Cairo dragoman, a native of 
Dongola, almost black, but exceedingly tenacious regard- 
ing his shade of colour, w^hich he declared to be light 
brown. He spoke very bad English, was excessively 
conceited, and irascible to a degree. No pasha was so 
bumptious or overbearing to his inferiors, but to me and 
to his mistress while in Cairo he had the gentleness of the 
dove, and I had engaged him at 51. per month to accom- 
pany me to the White Mle. Men change with circum- 
stances ; climate affects the health and temper ; the sleek 
and well-fed dog is amiable, but he would be vicious when 
thin and hungry ; the man in luxury and the man in need 
are not equally angelic. Now Mahomet was one of those 
dragomen who are accustomed to the civilized expeditions 
of the British tourist to the first or second cataract, in a 
Nile boat replete with conveniences and luxuries, upon 
which the dragoman is monarch supreme, a whale among 
the minnows, who rules the vessel, purchases daily a host 
of unnecessary supplies, upon which he clears his profit, 
until he returns to Cairo with his pockets filled sufficiently 
to support him until the following Nile season. The short 
three months' harvest, from November until February, fills 
his granary for the year. Under such circumstances the 
temper should be angelic. But times had changed : the 
luxurious Mahomet had left the comfortable Nile boat at 
Korosko, and he had crossed the burning desert upon a 

C2 



20 



MAHOMET. [chap. ii. 



ioltincT camel ; he had left the well-known route where the 
dracroman was supreme, and he found himself among 
people who treated him in the light of a common servant. 
"A change came o'er the spirit of his dream ;" Mahomet 
was no longer a great man, and his temper changed with 
circumstances ; in fact, Mahomet became unbearable, and 
still he was absolutely necessary, as he was the tongue of 
the expedition until we should accomplish Arabic. To 
him the very idea of exploration was an absurdity ; he 
had never believed in it from the first, and he now became 
impressed with the fact that he was positively committed 
to an undertaking that would end most Kkely m his death, 
if not in terrible difaculties ; he determined, under the 
circumstances, to make himself as disagreeable as possible 
to all parties. With this amiable resolution Mahomet 
adopted a physical infirmity in the shape of deafness; in 
realitv, no one was more acute in hearing, but as there are 
no bells where there are no houses, he of course could not 
answer such a summons, and he was compelled to attend 
to the call of his own name— " Mahomet ! Mahomet!" 
No reply, although the individual was sitting within a few 
feet apparently absorbed in the contemplation of his own 
boots "Mahomet!" with an additional emphasis upon 
the second syUable. Again no response. " Mahomet, you 
rascal why don't you answer?" This energetic address 
would effect a change in his position ; the mild and lamb- 
like drao-oman of Cairo would suddenly start from the 
o-round tear his own hair from his head in handfuls, and 
shout, "Mahomet! Mahomet! Mahomet! always Mahomet! 
D— n Mahomet ! I wish he were dead, or back m Cairo, 
this brute Mahomet!" The irascible dragoman would 
then beat his own head unmercifully with his fists, m a 

paroxysm of rage. « ttt n ^ 

To comfort him I could only exclaim, "Well done, 
Mahomet ! thrash him ; pommel him weU ; punch his 
head • you know him best ; he deserves it ; don't spare 
him!'' This advice, acting upon the natural perversity 
of his disposition, generally soothed him, and he ceased 
punchincT his head. This man was entirely out of his 
place if not out of his mind, at certain moments, and 



CHAP. II.] THE ROUTE TO THE ATBARA. 21 

having -upon one occasion smashed a basin by throwing it 
in the face of the cook, and npon another occasion 
narrowly escaped homicide, by throwing an axe at a man's 
head, which missed by an inch, he became a notorious 
character in the little expedition. 

We left Berber in the evening at sunset ; we were 
mounted upon donkeys, while our Turkish attendants rode 
upon excellent dromedaries that belonged to their regiment 
of irregular cavalry. As usual, when ready to start, 
Mahomet was the last ; he had piled a huge mass of bags 
and various luggage upon his donkey, that almost obscured 
the animal, and he sat mounted upon this pinnacle dressed 
in gorgeous clothes, with a brace of handsome pistols in 
his belt, and his gun slung across his shoulders. Upon 
my remonstrating with him upon the cruelty of thus over- 
loading the donkey, he flew into a fit of rage, and dis- 
mounting immediately, he drew his pistols from his belt 
and dashed them upon the ground ; his gun shared the 
same fate, and leaving his weapons upon the sand, he 
sullenly walked behind his donkey, which he drove forward 
with the caravan. 

We pushed forward at the usual rapid amble of the 
donkeys ; and, accompanied by Hadji Achmet upon his 
dromedary, with the coffee-pot, &c. and a large Persian rug 
slung behind the saddle, we quickly distanced the slower 
caravan under the charge of Hadji Velli and the sullen 
Mahomet. 

There was no difficulty in the route, as the sterile desert 
of sand and pebbles was bounded by a fringe of bush and 
mimosa that marked the course of the Nile, to which our 
way lay parallel. There was no object to attract particular 
attention, and no sound but that of the bleating goats 
driven homeward by the Arab boys, and the sharp cry of 
the desert sand grouse as they arrived in flocks to drink in 
the welcome river. The flight of these birds is extremely 
rapid, and is more like that of the pigeon than the grouse ; 
they inhabit the desert, but they travel great distances 
both night and morning to water, as they invariably drink 
twice a day. As they approach the river they utter the 
cry ** Clmckow, chuckow," in a loud clear note, and im- 



22 BRr BED OF THE ATBARA. [chap, ii 

mediately after drinking they return upon tlieir long flight 
to tlie desert. There are several varieties of the sand 
grouse. I have met with three, but they are dry, tough, 
and worthless as game. 

We slept in the desert about five miles from Berber, and 
on the following day, after a scorching march of about 
twenty miles, we arrived at the junction of the Atbara 
river with the Nile. Throughout the route the barren sand 
stretched to the horizon on the left, while on the right, 
within a mile of the Nile, the soil was suf&ciently rich to 
support a certain amount of vegetation — chiefly dwarf 
mimosas and the AscUpias gigantea. The latter I had 
frequently seen in Ceylon, where it is used medicinally by 
the native doctors ; but here it was ignored, except for the 
produce of a beautiful silky down which is used for stuffing 
cushions and pillows. This vegetable silk is contained in 
a soft pod or bladder about the size of an orange. Both 
the leaves and the stem of this plant emit a highly poison- 
ous milk, that exudes from the bark when cut or brmsed ; 
the least drop of this will cause total blindness, if in con- 
tact with the eye. I have seen several instances of acute 
ophthalmia that have terminated in loss of sight from the 
accidental rubbing of the eye with the hand when engaged 
in cutting firewood from the asclepias. The wood is 
extremely light, a.nd is frequently tied into fagots and 
used by the Arabs as a support while swimming, in lieu of 
cork. Although the poisonous qualities of the plant cause 
it to be shunned by all other animals, it is nevertheless 
greedily devoured by goats, who eat it unharmed. 

It was about two hours after sunset when we arrived at 
the steep bank of the Atbara river. Pushing through the 
fringe of young dome palms that formed a thick covert 
upon the margin, we cautiously descended the bank for 
about twenty-five feet, as the bright glare of the river's bed 
deceived me by the resemblance to water. We found a 
broad surface of white sand, which at that season formed 
the dry bed of the river. Crossing this arid bottom of 
about 400 yards in width, we unsaddled on the opposite 
side, by a bed of water melons planted near a small pool 
of water. A few of these we chopped in pieces for our 



CHAP. II.] THE DOME PALM 23 

tired donkeys, and we shared in the cool and welcome 
luxury ourselves that was most refreshing after the fatigue 
of the day's journey. Long before our camels arrived, we 
had drunk our coffee and were sound asleep upon the 
sandy bed of the Atbara. 

At daybreak on the following morning, while the camels 
were being loaded, I strolled to a small pool in the sand, 
tempted by a couple of wild geese ; these were sufficiently 
unsophisticated as to allow me to approach within shot, 
and I bagged them both, and secured our breakfast ; they 
were the common Egyptian geese, wliich are not very 
delicate eating. The donkeys being saddled, we at once 
started with our attendant, Hadji Achmet, at about five 
miles per hour, in advance of our slower caravan. The 
route was upon the river's margin, due east, through a 
sandy copse of thorny mimosas which fringed the river's 
course for about a quarter of a mile on either side ; beyond 
this all was desert. 

The Atbara had a curious appearance ; in no part was it 
less than 400 yards in width, while in many places this 
breadth was much exceeded. The banks were from twenty- 
five to thirty feet deep : these had evidently been over- 
flowed during floods, but at the present time the river was 
dead ; not only partially dry, but so glaring was the sandy 
bed, that the reflection of the sun was almost unbearable. 
Great numbers of the dome palm {Hyphoene Thebaica, 
Mart.) grew upon the banks; these trees are of great 
service to the Arab tribes, who at this season of drought 
forsake the deserts and flock upon the margin of the 
Atbara. The leaves of the dome supply them with 
excellent material for mats and ropes, while the fruit is 
used both for man and beast. The dome palm resembles 
the palmyra in the form and texture of its fan-shaped 
leaves, but there is a distinguishing peculiarity in the 
growth : instead of the straight single stem of the palmyra, 
the dome palm spreads into branches, each of which in- 
variably represents the letter Y. The fruit grows in dense 
clusters, numbering several hundred, of the size of a small 
orange, but of an irregular oval shape ; these are of a rich 
brown colour, and bear a natural polish as though 



24 USE OF THE DOME PALM FRUIT. [chap. ii. 

varnislied. So hard is the fruit and uninviting to the 
teeth, that a deal board would be equally practicable for 
mastication ; the Arabs pound them between stones, by 
which rough process they detach the edible portion in the 
form of a resinous powder. The rind of the nut which 
produces this powder is about a quarter of an inch thick ; 
this coatinsj covers a stroncr shell which contains a nut of 
vegetable ivory, a little larger than a full-sized walnut. 
When the resinous powder is detached, it is either eaten 
raw, or it is boiled into a delicious porridge, with milk ; 
this has a strong flavour of gingerbread. 

The vegetable ivory nuts are then soaked in water for 
about twenty-four hours, after which they are heaped in 
large piles upon a fire until nearly dry, and thoroughly 
steamed ; this process renders them sufficiently tractable 
to be reduced by pounding in a heavy mortar. Thus 
broken into small pieces they somewhat resemble half- 
roasted chestnuts, and in this state they form excellent 
food for cattle. The useful dome palm is the chief support 
of the desert Arabs when in times of drought and scarcity 
the supply of corn has failed. At this season (June) there 
was not a blade of even the withered grass of the desert 
oases. Our donkeys lived exclusively upon the dhurra 
{Borghmifh Egyptiaca) that we carried with us, and the 
camels required a daily supply of corn in addition to the 
dry twigs and bushes that formed their dusty food. The 
margin of the river was miserable and uninvitiug ; the 
trees and bushes were entirely leafless from the intense 
heat, as are the trees in England during winter. The only 
shade was afforded by the evergreen dome palms ; never- 
theless, the Arabs occupied the banks at intervals of three 
or four miles, wherever a pool of water in some deep bend 
of the dried river's bed offered an attraction ; in such 
places were Arab villages or camps, of the usual mat tents 
formed of the dome palm leaves. 

Many pools were of considerable size and of great 
depth. In flood-time a tremendous torrent sweeps down 
the course of the Atbara, and the sudden bends of the 
river are hollowed out by the force of the stream to a 
depth of twenty or thirty feet below the level of the bed. 



CHAP. II.] GRANDEUR OF THE 2ULE. 25 

Accordingly these holes become reservoirs of water when 
the river is otherwise exhausted. In such asylums all the 
usual inhabitants of this large river are crowded together 
in a comparatively narrow space. Although these pools 
vary in size, from only a few hundred yards to a mile in 
length, they are positively full of life ; huge fish, crocodiles 
of immense size, turtles, and occasionally hippopotami, 
consort together in close and unwished-for proximity. 
The animals of the desert — gazelles, hyaenas, and wild 
asses — are compelled to resort to these crowded drinking- 
places, occupied by the flocks of the Arabs equally with 
the timid beasts of the chase. The birds that during the 
cooler months would wander free throughout the country, 
are now collected in vast numbers along the margin of the 
exhausted river; innumerable doves, varying in species, 
throng the trees and seek the shade of the dome palms ; 
thousands of desert grouse arrive morning and evening to 
drink and to depart ; while birds in multitudes, of lovely 
plumage, escape from the burning desert, and colonize the 
poor but welcome bushes that fringe the Atbara river. 

The heat was intense. As we travelled along the margin 
of the Atbara, and felt with the suffering animals the 
exhaustion of the climate, I acknowledged the grandeur of 
the Nile that could overcome the absorption of such thirsty 
sands, and the evaporation caused by the burning atmo- 
sphere of Nubia. For nearly 1,200 miles from the junction 
of the Atbara with the parent stream to the Mediterranean, 
not one streamlet joined the mysterious river, neither one 
drop of rain ruffled its waters, unless a rare thunder- 
shower, as a curious phenomenon, startled the Arabs as 
they travelled along the desert. Nevertheless the Nile 
overcame its enemies, while the Atbara shrank to a 
skeleton, bare and exhausted, reduced to a few pools that 
lay like blotches along the broad surface of glowing sand. 

Notwithstanding the overpowering sun, there were 
certain advantages to the tra-veller at this season ; it was 
unnecessary to carry a large supply of water, as it could 
be obtained at intervals of a few miles. There was an in- 
describable delight in the cool night, when, in the perfect 
certainty of fine weather, we could rest in the open air 



26 COLLODABAD. [chap. ii. 

with the clear bright starlit sky above us. There were no 
mosquitoes, neither were there any of the insect plagues of 
the tropics ; the air was too dry for the gnat tribe, and the 
moment of sunset was the signal for perfect enjoyment, 
free from the usual drawbacks of African travel. As the 
river pools were the only drinking-places for birds and 
game, the gun supplied not only my own party, but I had 
much to give away to the Arabs in exchange for goat's 
milk, the meal of the dome nuts, &c. Gazelles were 
exceedingly numerous, but shy, and so difficult to approach 
that they required most careful stalking. At this season 
of intense heat they drank twice a day — at about an hour 
after sunrise, and half an hour before sunset. 

The great comfort of travelling along the bank of the 
river in a desert country is the perfect freedom, as a con- 
tinual supply of water enables the explorer to rest at his 
leisure in any attractive spot where game is plentiful, or 
where the natural features of the country invite investiga- 
tion. We accordingly halted, after some days' journey, at 
a spot named CoUodabad, where an angle of the river had 
left a deep pool of about a mile in length : this was the 
largest sheet of water that we had seen throughout the 
course of the Atbara. A number of Arabs had congregated 
at this spot with their flocks and herds ; the total absence 
of verdure had reduced the animals to extreme leanness, as 
the goats gathered their scanty sustenance from the seed- 
pods of the mimosas, which were shaken down to the 
expectant flocks by the Arab boys, with long hooked poles. 
These seeds were extremely oily, and resembled linseed, 
but the rank flavour was disagreeable and acrid. 

This spot was seven days' march from the Nile junction, 
or about 160 miles. The journey had been extremely 
monotonous, as there had been no change in the scenery ; 
it was the interminable desert, with the solitary streak of 
vegetation in the belt of mimosas and dome palms, about a 
mile and a half in width, that marked the course of the 
river. I had daily shot gazelles, geese, pigeons, desert 
grouse, &c. but no larger game. I was informed that at 
this spot, Collodabad, I should be introduced for the first 
time to the hippopotamus. 



CHAP. II.] HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLS AN ARAB. 27 

Owing to tlie total absence of nourishing food, the cattle 
produced a scanty supply of milk ; thus the Arabs, who 
depended chiefly upon their flocks for their subsistence, 
were in great distress, and men and beasts mutually suffered 
extreme hardship. The Arabs that occupy the desert north 
of the Atbara are' the Bishareens ; it was among a large 
concourse of these people that we pitched our tents on the 
banks of the river at Collodabad. 

This being the prmcipal watering-place along the deserted 
bed of the Atbara, the neighbourhood literally swarmed 
with doves, sand grouse, and other birds, in addition to 
many geese and pelicans. 

Early in the morning I procured an Arab guide to search 
for the reported hippopotemi. My tents were among a 
grove of dome palms on the margin of the river ; thus I 
had a clear view of the bed for a distance of about half a 
mile on either side. This portion of the Atbara was about 
500 yards in width, the banks were about thirty feet per- 
pendicular depth ; and the bend of the river had caused 
the formation of the deep hollow on the opposite side 
which now formed the pool, while every other part was 
dry. This pool occupied about one-third the breadth of 
the river, bounded by the sand upon one side, and by a 
perpendicular cliff upon the other, upon which grew a 
fringe of green bushes similar to willows. These were 
the only succulent leaves that I had seen since I left 
Berber. 

We descended the steep sandy bank in a spot that the 
Arabs had broken down to reach the water, and after 
trudging across about 400 yards of deep sand, we reached 
the extreme and narrowest end of the pool ; here for the 
first time I saw the peculiar four-toed print of the hippo- 
potamus's foot. A bed of melons had been planted here 
by the Arabs in the moist sand near the water, but the 
fruit had been entirely robbed by the hippopotami. A 
melon is exactly adapted for the mouth of this animal, as 
he could crunch the largest at one squeeze, and revel in 
the juice. Not contented with the simple fruits of the 
garden, a large bull hippopotamus had recently killed the 
proprietor. The Arab wished to drive it from his planta- 



28 BARING FEAT OF THE FISH-EAGLE. [chap. ii. 

tion, but was immediately attacked by the hippo, who 
caught him in its mouth and killed him by one crunch. 
This little incident had rendered the hippo exceedingly 
daring, and it had upon several occasions charged out of 
the water, when the people had driven their goats to drink; 
therefore it would be the more satisfactory to obtain a shot, 
and to supply the hungry Arabs with meat at the expense 
of their enemy. 

At this early hour, 6 A.M., no one had descended to the 
pool, thus all the tracks upon the margin were fresh and 
undisturbed : there were the huge marks of crocodiles that 
had recently returned to the water, while many of great 
size were still lying upon the sand in the distance : these 
slowly crept into the pool as we approached. The Arabs 
had dug small holes in the sand within a few yards of the 
water : these were the artificial drinking-places for their 
goats and sheep, that would have been snapped up by the 
crocodiles had they ventured to drink in the pool of 
crowded monsters. I walked for about a mile and a half 
along the sand without seeing a sign of hippopotami, 
except their numerous tracks upon the margin. There was 
no wind, and the surface of the water was unruffled ; thus 
I could see every creature that rose in the pool either 
to breathe or to bask in the morning sunshine. The 
number and size of the fish, turtles, and crocodiles were 
extraordinary ; many beautiful gazelles approached from all 
sides for their morning draught: wild geese, generally in 
pairs, disturbed the wary crocodiles by their cry of alarm 
as we drew near, and the desert grouse in flocks of many 
thousands had gathered together, and were circling in a 
rapid flight above the water, wishing, but afraid, to 
descend and drink. Having a shot gun with me, I fired 
and killed six at one discharge, but one of the wounded 
birds having fallen into the water at a distance of about 
120 yards, it was immediately seized by a white-throated 
fish-eagle, which perched upon a tree, swooped down upon 
the bird, utterly disregarding the report of the gun. 
The Bishareen Arabs have no fire-arms, thus the sound of 
a gun was unknown to the game of the desert. 

i had killed several wild geese for breakfast in the 



CHAP, il] hippopotamus SHOOTING. 29 

absence of the hippopotami, when I suddenly heard the 
peculiar loud snorting neigh of these animals in my rear ; 
we had passed them unperceived, as they had been beneath 
the surface. After a quick walk of about half a mile, 
during which time the cry of the hippos had been several 
times repeated, I observed six of these curious animals 
standing in the water about shoulder-deep. There was no 
cover, therefore I could only advance upon the sand with- 
out a chance of stalking them ; this caused them to retreat 
to deeper water, but upon my arrival within about eighty 
yards, they raised their heads well up, and snorted an 
impudent challenge. I had my old Ceylon No. 10 double 
rifle, and, taking a steady aim at the temple of one that 
appeared to be the largest, the ball cracked loudly upon 
the skull. jSTever had there been such a commotion in the 
pool as now ! At the report of the rifle, five heads sank 
and disappeared like stones, but the sixth hippo leaped 
half out of the water, and, falling backwards, commenced 
a series of violent struggles : now upon his back ; then 
upon one side, with all four legs frantically paddling, and 
raising a cloud of spray and foam; then v/altzing round 
and roimd with its huge jaws wide open, raising a swell 
in the hitherto calm surface of the water. A quick shot 
with the left-hand barrel produced no effect, as the move- 
ments of the animal were too rapid to allow a steady aim 
at the forehead ; I accordingly took my trusty little 
Fletcher* double rifle No. 24, and, running knee-deep into 
the water to obtain a close shot, I fired exactly between 
the eyes, near the crown of the head. At the report of 
the little Fletcher the hippo disappeared ; the tiny waves 
raised by the commotion broke upon the sand, but the 
game was gone. 

This being my first vis-d-vis with a hippo, I was not 
certain whether I could claim the victory ; he was gone, 
but where ? However, while I was speculating upon the 
case, I heard a tremendous rush of water, and I saw five 

* This excellent and handy rifle was made by Thomas Fletcher, of 
Gloucester, and accompanied me like a faithful dog throughout my journey 
of nearly five years to the Albert N'yanza, and returned with me to 
England as good as new. 



30 DELIGHT OF THE ARABS. [chap. ii. 

hippopotami tearing along in full trot through a portion 
of the pool that was not deep enough to cover them 
above the shoulder; this was the affair of about half a 
minute, as they quickly reached deep water, and dis- 
appeared at about a hundred and fifty yards' distance. 

The fact of five hippos in retreat after I had counted 
six in the onset was conclusive that my waltzing friend 
was either dead or disabled ; I accordingly lost no time 
in following the direction of the herd. Hardly had I 
arrived at the spot where they had disappeared, when 
first one and then another head popped up and again 
sank, until one more hardy than the rest ventured to 
appear within fifty yards, and to bellow as before. Once 
more the No. 10 crashed through his head, and again the 
waltzing and struggling commenced like the paddling 
of a steamer: this time, however, the stunned hippo in 
its convulsive efforts came so close to the shore that I 
killed it directly in shallow water, by a forehead shot 
with the little Fletcher. I concluded from this result that 
my first hippo must also be lying dead in deep water. 

The Arabs, having heard the shots fired, had begun 
to gather towards the spot, and, upon my men shouting 
that a hippo was killed, crowds came running to the 
place with their knives and ropes, while others returned 
to their encampment to fetch camels and mat bags to 
convey the flesh. In half an hour at least three hundred 
Arabs were on the spot ; the hippo had been hauled to 
shore by ropes, and, by the united efforts of the crowd, 
the heavy carcase had been rolled to the edge of the 
water. Here the attack commenced ; no pack of hungry 
hyaenas could have been more savage. I gave them 
permission to take the flesh, and in an instant a hundred 
knives were at work : they fought over the spoil like 
wolves. No sooner was the carcase flayed than the 
struggle commenced for the meat; the people were a 
mass of blood, as some stood thigh-deep in the reeking 
intestines wrestling for the fat, while many hacked at 
each other's hands for coveted portions that were striven 
for as a honne bouche. I left the savage crowd in their 
ferocious enjoyment of flesh and blood, and I returned 



CHAP. II.] FISHING. 31 

to camp for breakfast, my Turk, Hadji Achmet, carrying- 
some hippopotamus steaks. 

That morning my wife and I breakfasted upon our 
first hippo, an animal that was destined to be our general 
food throughout our journey among the Abyssinian tri- 
butaries of the Mle. After breakfast we strolled down 
to the pool to search for the hippopotamus JSTo. 1. This 
we at once found, dead, as it had risen to the surface, 
and was floating like the back of a turtle a few inches 
above the water. The Arabs had been so intent upon 
the division of their spoil that they had not observed 
their new prize ; accordingly, upon the signal being given, 
a general rush took place, and in half an hour a similar 
scene was enacted to that of hippo No. 2. 

The entire Arab camp was in commotion and full of 
joy at this unlooked-for arrival of flesh. Camels laden 
with meat and hide toiled along the sandy bed of the 
river ; the women raised their long and shrill cry of 
delight ; and we were looked upon as general benefactors 
for having brought them a supply of good food in this 
season of distress. 

In the afternoon I arranged my tackle, and strolled 
down to the pool to fish. There was a difficulty in pro- 
curing bait ; a worm was never heard of in the burning 
deserts of Nubia, neither had I a net to catch small fish ; 
I was therefore obliged to bait with pieces of hippo- 
potamus. Fishing in such a pool as that of the Atbara 
was sufficiently exciting, as it was impossible to speculate 
upon what creature might accept the invitation ; but the 
Arabs who accompanied me were particular in guarding 
me against the position I had taken under a willow-bush 
close to the water, as they explained, that most probably 
a crocodile would take me instead of the bait ; they 
declared that accidents had frequently happened when 
people had sat upon the bank either to drink with their 
hands, or even while watching their goats. I accordingly 
fished at a few feet distant from the margin, and pre- 
sently I had a bite ; I landed a species of perch about 
two pounds' weight ; this was the " boulti," one of the best 
Nile fish mentioned by the traveller Bruce. In a short 



32 CATCH A TARTAR, [chap. ii. 

time T had cauglit a respectable dish of fish, but hitherto 
no monster had paid me the slightest attention ; accord- 
ingly I changed my bait, and upon a powerful hook, fitted 
upon treble-twisted wire. I fastened an enticing strip of 
a boulti. The bait was about four ounces, and glistened 
like silver; the water was tolerably clear, but not too 
bright, and with such an attraction I expected something 
heavy. My float was a large-sized pike-float for live 
bait, and this civilized sign had been only a few minutes 
in the wild waters of the Atbara, when, bob ! and away it 
went ! I had a very large reel, with nearly three hundred 
yards of line that had been specially made for monsters ; 
down went the top of my rod, as though a grindstone 
was suspended on it, and, as I recovered its position, 
away went the line, and the reel revolved, not with the 
sudden dash of a spirited fish, but with the steady deter- 
mined pull of a trotting horse. What on earth have I 
got hold of ? In a few minutes about a himdred yards 
of line were out, and as the creature was steadily but 
slowly travelling down the centre of the channel, I 
determined to cry " halt ! " if possible, as my tackle 
was extremely strong, and my rod was a single bamboo. 
Accordingly, I put on a powerful strain, which was 
replied to by a sullen tug, a shake, and again my rod was 
pulled suddenly down to the water's edge. At length, 
after the roughest handling, I began to reel in slack line, 
as my unknown friend had doubled in upon me ; and 
upon once more putting severe pressure upon him or her, 
as it might be, I perceived a great swhl in the water 
about twenty yards from the rod. The tackle would bear 
anything, and I strained so heavily upon my adversary, 
that I soon reduced our distance ; but the water was 
exceedingly deep, the bank precipitous, and he was still 
invisible. At length, after much tugging and counter- 
tugging, he began to show ; eagerly I gazed into the 
water to examine my new acquaintance, when I made out 
something below, in shape between a coach- wheel and a 
sponging-bath ; in a few moments more I brought to the 
surface an enormous turtle, well hooked. I felt like the 
old lady who won an elephant in a lottery : that I had 



CHAP. II.] LOSE MY TURTLE SOUF. 33 

him was certain, but wliat was I to do with my prize? 
It was at the least a hundred pounds' weight, and the 
bank was steep and covered with bushes; thus it was 
impossible to land the monster, that now tugged and 
dived with the determination of the grindstone that his 
first pull had suggested. Once I attempted the gaff, but 
the trusty weapon that had landed many a fish in Scotland 
broke in the hard shell of the turtle, and I was helpless. 
My Arab now came to my assistance, and at once ter- 
minated the struggle. Seizing the line with both hands, 
utterly regardless of all remonstrance (which, being in 
English, he did not understand), he quickly hauled our 
turtle to the surface, and held it, struggling and gnashing 
its jaws, close to the steep bank. In a few moments the 
line slackened, and the turtle disappeared. The fight 
was over ! The sharp horny jaws had bitten through 
treble-twisted brass wire as clean as though cut by shears. 
My visions of turtle soup had faded. 

The heavy fish were not in the humour to take ; I 
therefore shot one with a rifle as it came to the surface 
to blow, and, the water in this spot being shallow, we 
brought it to shore ; it was a species of carp, between 
thirty and forty pounds; the scales were rather larger 
than a crown piece, and so hard that they would have 
been difficult to pierce with a harpoon. It proved to be 
useless for the table, being of an oily nature that was 
only acceptable to the Arabs. 

In the eveninsr I went out stalking^ in the desert, and 
returned with five fine buck gazelles. These beautiful 
creatures so exactly resemble the colour of the sandy 
deserts which they inhabit, that tliey are most difficult to 
distinguish, and then? extreme shyness renders stalking 
upon foot very uncertain. I accordingly employed an Arab 
to lead a camel, under cover of which I could generally 
manage to approach within a hundred yards. A buck 
gazelle weighs from sixty to seventy pounds, and is the 
perfection of muscid^ar development. No person who has 
seen the gazelles in confinement in a temperate climate 
can form an idea of the beauty of the animal in its native 
desert. Born in the scorching sun, nursed on the burning 



34 SPEED OF THE GAZELLE. [chap, ii 

sand of the treeless and shadowless wilderness, the gazelle 
is among the antelope trihe as the Arab horse is among 
its brethren, the high-bred and superlative beauty of the 
race. The skin is as sleek as satin, of a colour difficult 
to describe, as it varies between the lightest mauve and 
yellowish brown ; the belly is snow-white ; the legs, from 
the knee downwards, are also white, and are as fine as 
though carved from ivory ; the hoof is beautifully shaped, 
and tapers to a sharp point ; the head of the buck is 
ornamented by gracefully-curved annulated horns, perfectly 
black, and generally from nine to twelve inches long in 
the bend ; the eye is the well-known perfection — the full, 
large, soft, and jet-black eye of the gazelle. Although the 
desert appears incapable of supporting animal life, there 
are in the undulating surface numerous shallow sandy 
ravines, in which are tufts of a herbage so coarse that, as a 
source of nourishment, it would be valueless to a domestic 
animal : nevertheless, upon this dry and wiry substance 
the delicate gazelles subsist ; and, although they never 
fatten, they are exceedingly fleshy and in excellent con- 
dition. Entirely free from fat, and nevertheless a mass of 
muscle and sinew, the gazelle is the fastest of the antelope 
tribe. Proud of its strength, and confident in its agility, it 
will generally bound perpendicularly four or five feet from 
the ground several times before it starts at full speed, as 
though to test the quality of its sinews before the race. 
The Arabs course them with greyhounds, and sometimes 
they are caught by running several dogs at the same time ; 
but this result is from the folly of the gazelle, who at first 
distances his pursuers like the wind ; but, secure in its 
speed, it halts and faces the dogs, exhausting itself by 
bounding exultingly in the air ; in the meantime the grey- 
hounds are closing up, and diminishing the chance of 
escape. As a rule, notwithstanding this absurdity of the 
gazelle, it has the best of the race, and the greyhounds 
return crestfallen and beaten. Altogether it is the most 
beautiful specimen of game that exists, far too lovely and 
harmless to be hunted and killed for the mere love of 
sport. But when dinner depends upon the rifle, beauty is 
no protection ; accordingly, throughout our desert march 



CHAP. II.] TJA'NIAG ITS HIDES. 35 

we lived upon gazelles, and I am sorry to confess that I 
became very expert at stalking these wary little animals. 
The flesh, although tolerably good, has a slight flavour of 
musk ; this is not peculiar to the gazelle, as the odour is 
common to most of the small varieties of antelopes. 

Having a good supply of meat, all hands were basily 
engaged m cutting it into strips and drying it for future 
use ; the bushes were covered with festoons of flesh of 
gazelles and hippopotami, and the skins of the former 
were prepared for making girbas, or water-sacks. The 
flaying process for this purpose is a delicate operation, as 
the knife must be so dexterously used that no false cut 
should injure the hide. The animal is hung up by the 
hind legs ; an incision is then made along the inside of 
both thighs to the tail, and with some trouble the skin is 
drawn off the body towards the head, precisely as a stock- 
ing might be drawn from the leg ; by this operation the 
skin forms a seamless bag, open at both ends. To Ibrm a 
girba, the skin must be buried in the earth for about 
twenty hours : it is then washed in water, and the hair 
is easily detached. Thus rendered clean, it is tanned by 
soaking for several days in a mixture of the bark of a 
mimosa and water ; from this it is daily withdrawn, and 
stretched out with pegs upon the ground ; it is then well 
scrubbed with a rough stone, and fresh mimosa bark well 
bruised, with water, is rubbed in by the friction. About 
four days are sufficient to tan the thin skin of a gazelle, 
which is much valued for its toughness and durability ; 
the aperture at the hind quarters is sewn together, and the 
opening of the neck is closed, when required, by tying. 
A good water-skin should be porous, to allow the water to 
exude sufficiently to moisten the exterior : thus the action 
of the air upon the exposed surface causes evaporation, 
and imparts to the water within the skin a delicious 
coolness. The Arabs usually prepare their tanned skins 
with an empyreumatical oil made from a variety of sub- 
stances, the best of which is that from the sesame grain ; 
this has a powerful smell, and renders the water so dis- 
agreeable that few Europeans could drink it. This oil is 
black, and much resembles tar in appearance; it has the 

d2 



36 THE RIVER COMES DOITN. [ckap. ii. 

efifect of preserving the leather, and of rendering it per- 
fectly water-tight. In desert travelling each person 
should have his own private water-skin slung* upon his 
dromedary ; for this purpose none are so good as a small- 
sized gazelle skin that will contain about two gallons. 

On the 23d June we were nearly suffocated by a whirl- 
wind that buried everything within the tents several 
inches in dust ; the heat was intense ; as usual the sky 
was spotless, but the simoom was more overpowering than 
I had yet experienced. I accordingly took my rifle and 
went down to the pool, as any movement, even in the 
burning sun, was preferable to inaction in that sultry heat 
and dust. The crocodiles had draf^s^ed the skeletons of 
the hippopotami into the water ; several huge heads 
appeared and then vanislied from the surface, and the 
ribs of the carcase that projected, trembled and jerked as 
the jaws of the crocodiles were at work beneath. I shot 
one of very large size through the head, but it sank to 
the bottom ; I expected to find it on the following morn- 
ing floating upon the surface when the gas should have 
distended the body. 

I also shot a large single bull hippopotamus late in the 
evening, which was alone at the extremity of the pool ; 
he sank at the forehead shot, and, as he never rose again, 
I concluded that he was dead, and that I should find him 
on the morrow with the crocodile. Tired with the heat, I 
trudged homeward over the hot and fatiguing sand of 
the river's bed. 

The cool night arrived, and at about half-past eight 1 
was lying half asleep upon my bed by the margin of the 
]iver, when I fancied that I heard a rumbling like distant 
thunder : I had not heard such a sound for months, but a 
low uninterrupted roll appeared to increase in volume, 
although far distant. Hardly had I raised my head to 
listen more attentively when a confusion of voices arose 
from the Arabs' camp, with a sound of many feet, and in 
a few minutes they rushed into my camp, shouting to my 
men in the darkness, " El Bahr ! El Bahr 1 " (the river ! 
the river !) 

We were up in an instant, and my interpreter, Mahomet, 



CHAP. II.] THE MIGHTY STREAM OF THE ATBARA. \\ 7 

in a state of intense confusion, explained that tlie river 
was coming clown, and that the supposed distant thunder 
was the roar of approaching water. 

Many of the people were asleep on the clean sand on 
the river's bed ; these were quicldy awakened by the 
Arabs, who rushed down the steep bank to save the 
skulls of my two hippopotami that were exposed to dry. 
Hardly had they descended, when the sound of the river 
in the darkness beneath told us that the water liad arrived, 
and the men, dripping with wet, had just sufficient time 
to drag their heavy burdens up the bank. 

All was darkness and confusion ; everybody was talking 
and no one listening ; but the great event had occurred 
the river had arrived " like a thief in the night." On the 
morning of the 24th June, I stood on the banks of the 
noble Atbara river, at the break of day. The wonder of 
the desert ! — yesterday there was a barren sheet of glaring 
sand, with a fringe of withered bush and trees upon its 
borders, that cut the yellow expanse of desert. For days 
we had journeyed along the exhausted bed : all ISTature, 
even in Nature's poverty, was most poor : no bush, could 
boast a leaf : no tree could throw a shade : crisp gums 
crackled upon the stems of the mimosas, the sap dried 
upon the burst bark, sprung with the withering heat of 
the simoom. In one night there was a mysterious change 
— wonders of the mighty Nile ! — an army of water was 
hastening to the wasted river : there was no drop of rain, 
no thunder-cloud on the horizon to give hope, all had been 
dry and sultry ; dust and desolation yesterday, to-day a 
magnificent stream, some 500 yards in width and from 
fifteen to twenty feet in depth, flowed through the dreary 
desert ! Bamboos and reeds, with trash of all kinds, were 
hurried along the muddy waters. Where were all the 
crowded inhabitants of the pool ? The prison doors were 
broken, the prisoners were released, and rejoiced in the 
mighty stream of the Atbara. 

The 24th June, 1861, was a memorable day. Although 
this was actually the beginning of my work, I felt that 
by the experience of this night I had obtained a clue to 
one portion of the Nile mystery, and that, as " coming 



38 CHANGE IN THE SEASON. [chap. ii. 

events cast their shadows before them," this sudden 
creation of a river was but the shadow of the gxeat 
cause. 

The rains were pouring in Abyssinia ! these were sources 
of the Nile ! 

One of my Tarks, Hadji Achmet, was ill ; therefore, 
although I longed to travel, it was necessary to wait. I 
extract verlaiim from my journal, 26th June : — " The 
river has still risen ; the weather is cooler, and the 
withered trees and bushes are giving signs of bursting 
into leaf. This season may be termed the spring of this 
country. The frightful simoom of April, May, and June, 
burns everything as though parched by fire, and not even 
a withered leaf hangs to a bough, but the trees wear a 
wintry appearance in the midst of intense heat. The 
wild geese have paired, the birds are building their nests, 
and, although not even a drop of dew has fallen, all 
ISTature seems to be aware of an approaching change, as 
the south wind blowing cool from the wet quarter is the 
harbinger of rain. Already some of the mimosas begin to 
afford a shade, under which the gazelles may be surely 
found at mid-day ; the does are now in fawn, and the 
young will be dropped when this now withered land shall 
be green with herbage. 

" Busy, packing for a start to-morrow ; I send Hadji 
Velli back to Berber in charge of the two hippos' heads 
to the care of the good old Halleem EfFendi. No time for 
shooting to-day. I took out all the hippos' teeth, of 
which he possesses 40, ^^q, six tusks and fourteen 
molars in each jaw. The bones of the hippopotamus, like 
those of the elephant, are solid, and without marrow." 



CHi^PTER III. 

WILD ASSES OF THE DESERT. 

The journey along the margin of the Atbara was similar 
to the entire route from Berber, a vast desert, with the 
narrow band of trees that marked the course of the river ; 
the only change was the magical growth of the leaves, 
which burst hourly from the swollen buds of the mimosas : 
this could be accounted for by the sudden arrival of the 
river, as the water percolated rapidly through the sand 
and nourished the famishing roots. 

The tracks of wild asses had been frequent, but hitherto 
I had not seen the animals, as their drinking-hour was 
at night, after which they travelled far into the desert : 
however, on the morning of the 29th June, shortly after 
the start at about 6 A.M., we perceived three of these 
beautiful creatures on our left — an ass, a female, and a 
foal. They were about half a mile distant when first 
observed, and upon our approach to within half that dis- 
tance they halted and faced about; they were evidently 
on their return to the desert from the river. Those who 
have seen donkeys in their civilized state have no concep- 
tion of the beauty of the wild and original animal. Far 
from the passive and subdued appearance of the English ass, 
the animal in its native desert is the perfection of activity 
and courage ; there is a high-bred tone m the deport- 
ment, a high-actioned step when it trots freely ov^er the 
rocks and sand, with the speed of a horse when it gallops 
over the bound-less desert. No animal is more difficult 
of approach; and, although they are frequently captured 
by the Arabs, those taken are invariably the foals, which 
are ridden down by fast dromedaries, while the mothers 
escape. The colour of the wild ass is a reddish cream, 
tinged with the shade most prevalent of the ground tliat 
it inhabits ; thus it much resembles tlie sand of tlie desert. 



40 ARAB APPETITE FOR RAW MEAT. [chap. in. 

I wished to obtain a specimen, and accordingly I exerted 
my utmost knowledge of stalking to obtain a shot at 
the male. After at least an hour and a half I succeeded 
in obtaining a long shot with a single rifle, which passed 
through the shoulder, and I secured my first and last 
donkey. It was with extreme regret that I saw my 
beautiful prize in the last gasp, and I resolved never to 
fire another shot at one of its race. This fine specimen 
was in excellent condition, although the miserable pas- 
turage of the desert is confined to the wiry herbage 
already mentioned ; of this the stomach was full, chewed 
into morsels like chopped reeds. The height of this male 
ass was about 13'3 or 14 hands ; the shoulder was far 
more sloping than that of the domestic ass, the hoofs 
were remarkable for their size ; they were wide, firm, 
and as broad as those of a horse of 15 hands. I skinned 
this animal carefully, and the Arabs divided the flesh 
among them, while Hadji Achmet selected a choice piece 
for our own dinner. At the close of our march that 
evening, the morsel of wild ass was cooked in the form 
of " rissoles : " the flavour resembled beef, but it was 
extremely tough. 

On the following day, 30th June, we reached Gozerajup, 
a large permanent village on the south bank of the river. 
By dead reckoning we had marched 246 miles from 
Berber. This spot was therefore about 220 miles from 
the junction of the Atbara with the Mle. Here we re- 
mained for a few days to rest the donkeys and to engage 
fresh camels. An extract from my journal will give a 
general idea of this miserable country : — 

" July 3. — I went out early to get something for break- 
fast, and shot a hare and seven pigeons. On my return 
to camp, an Arab immediately skinned the hare, and 
pulling out the liver, lungs, and kidneys, he ate them raw 
and bloody. The Arabs invariably eat the lungs, liver, 
kidneys, and the thorax of sheep, gazelles, &c. while they 
are engaged in skinning the beasts, after which they crack the 
leg bones between stones, and suck out the raw marrow." 

A Bishareen Arab wears his hair in hundreds of minute 
plaits which hang down to his shoulders, surmounted 



CHAP. III.] THE BISHAREEN ARABS. 4 1 

by a circular bushy topknot upon the crown, about 
the size of a large breakfast-cup, from the base of which 
the plaits descend. When in full dress, the plaits are 
carefully combed out with an ivory skewer about eighteen 
inches in length ; after this operation, the head appears 
like a huge black mop surmounted by a fellow mop of a 
small size. Through this mass of hair he carries his 
skewer, which is generally ornamented, and which answers 
the double purpose of comb and general scratcher. 

The men have remarkably fine features, but the women 
are not generally pretty. The Bisharee.n is the largest 
Arab tribe of Nubia. Like all the Arabs of Upper Egypt, 
they pay taxes to the Viceroy ; these are gathered by parties 
of soldiers, who take the opportunity of visiting them during 
the drought, at which time they can be certainly found 
near the river ; but at any other season it would be as easy 
to collect tribute from the gazelles of the desert as from 
the wandering Bishareens. The appearance of Turkish 
soldiers is anything but agreeable to the Arabs ; therefore 
my escort of Turks was generally received with the " cold 
shoulder" upon our arrival at an Arab camp, and no 
supplies were forthcoming in the shape of milk, &c. until 
the long coorbatch (hippopotamus whip) of Hadji Achmet 
had cracked several times across the shoulders of tlie 
village headman. At first this appeared to me extremely 
brutal, but I was given to understand that I was utterly 
ignorant of the Arab character, and that he knew best. I 
found by experience that Hadji Achmet was correct ; even 
where milk was abundant, the Arabs invariably declared 
that they had not a drop, that the goats were dry, or had 
strayed away ; and some paltry excuses w^ere offered until 
the temper of the Turk became exhausted, and the coor- 
batch assisted in the argument. A magician's rod could 
not have produced a greater miracle than the hippopotamus 
whip. The goats were no longer dry, and in a few minutes 
large gourds of milk were brought, and liberally paid for, 
while I was ridiculed by the Turk, Hadji Achmet, for so 
foolishly throwing away money to the " Arab dogs." 

Our route was to change. We had hitherto followed the 
course of the Atbara, but we were now to leave that river 



42 GOZERAJUF. [chap. tii. 

on our right, wliile we should travel S.E. about niuety 
miles to Cassala, the capital of the Taka country, on the 
confines of Abyssinia, the great depot upon that frontier 
for Egyptian troops, military stores, &c. 

Having procured fresh camels, we started on 5th July. 
.This portion of the desert was rich in agates and numerous 
specimens of bloodstone. Exactly opposite the village of 
Gozerajup are curious natural landmarks, — four pyra- 
midical hills of granite that can be seen for many miles' 
distance in this perfectly level country. One of these hills 
is about 500 feet high, and is composed entirely of naked 
blocks of grey granite piled one upon the other ; some of 
these stand perpendicularly in single masses from 30 to 50 
feet high, and from a distance might be taken for giants 
climbing the hill-side. The pinnacle has a peculiar conical 
cap, which appears to have been placed there by design, 
but upon closer inspection it is found to be natural, as 
no stone of such immense size could have been placed 
in such a position. 

For the first two hours' march from this landmark, 
the country was covered with scrubby bush abounding in 
gazelles a,nd' guinea-fowl. Here, for the first time, I saw 
the secretary bird, known to the Arabs as the "Devil's 
horse." A pair of these magnificent birds were actively 
employed in their useful avocation of hunting reptiles, 
which they chased with wonderful speed. Great numbers 
of wild asses passed us during the march towards evening ; 
they were on their way from the desert to the Atbara river, 
some miles distant upon the west. Veritable thunder we 
now heard for the first time in Africa, and a cloud rose 
with great rapidity from the horizon. A cloud wa.s a 
wonder that we had not enjoyed for months, but as this 
increased both in size and density, accompanied by a gust 
of cool wind, we were led to expect a still greater wonder 
— rain ! Hardly had we halted for the night, when down 
it came in torrents, accompanied by a heavy thunder- 
storm. On the following morning, we experienced the dis- 
advantage of rain ; the ground was so slippery that the 
camels could not march, and we were obliged to defer our 
start until the sun had dried the surface. 



CHAP, iii.j THE FIRST RAIK 43 

We had now arrived at the most interestmg point to an 
explorer. From Cairo to within a few miles south of 
Gozerajup stretched the unbroken desert through which 
we had toiled from Korosko, and which had so firmly im- 
pressed its dreariness upon the mind that nothing but 
desert had been expected : we had learned to be content 
in a world of hot sand, rocks, and pebbles ; but we had 
arrived upon the limit ; the curious landmark of Gozerajup 
was an everlasting beacon that marked the frontier of the 
Nubian desert ; it was a giant warder, that seemed to 
guard the living south from the dreadful skeleton of 
nature on the north ; — the desert had ceased ! 

It was a curious and happy coincidence that our arrival 
upon the limits of the desert should have been celebrated 
by the first shower of rain : we no longer travelled upon 
sand and stones, but we stood upon a fertile loam, rendered 
soapy and adhesive by the recent shower. The country 
was utterly barren at that season, as the extreme heat of 
the sun and simoom destroys all vegetation so thoroughly 
that it becomes as crisp as glass ; the dried grass breaks in 
the wind, and is carried away m dust, leaving the earth so 
utterly naked and bare that it is rendered a complete desert. 

In the rainy season, the whole of this countr}', from the 
south to Gozerajup, is covered with excellent pasturage, 
and, far from resembling a desert, it becomes a mass of 
bright green herbage. The Arabs and their flocks are 
driven from the south by the flies and by the heavy rains, 
and Gozerajup offers a paradise to both men and beasts ; 
thousands of camels with their young, hundreds of thou- 
sands of goats, sheep, and cattle, are accompanied by the 
Arabs and their families, who encamp on the happy 
pastures during the season of plenty. 

We had now passed the limits occupied by the Bis- 
hareens, and we had entered upon the country of the 
Hadendowa Arabs. These are an exceedingly bad tribe, 
and, together with their neighbours, the HaUonga Arabs, 
they fought determinedly against the Egyptians, until 
finally conquered during the reign of the famous Mehemet 
Ali Paslia, when the provinces of Nubia submitted uncon- 
ditionally, and became a portion of Upper Egypt. 



44 ANTELOPES. [chap. iij. 

Upon arrival at Soojalup \T'e came upon the principal 
encampment of the Haclendowa during tiie dry season. 
Within a few miles of this spot the scene had changed : 
instead of the bare earth denuded of vegetation, the 
country was covered with jungle, already nearly green, 
w^hile the vast plains of grass, enlivened by beautiful 
herds of antelopes, proved not only the fertility of the soil, 
but the presence of moisture. Although there was no 
stream, nor any appearance of a river's bed, Soojalup was 
well supplied with water throughout the hottest season by 
numerous wells. This spot is about forty miles distant 
from Gozerajup, and is the first watering-place upon the 
route to Cassala. As we approached the Wells, we passed 
several large villages surrounded by fenced gardens of 
cotton, and tobacco, both of which throve exceedingly. 
Every village possessed a series of wells, with a simple 
contrivance for watering their cattle : — Adjoining the 
mouth of each well was a basin formed of clay, raised 
sufficiently high above the level of the ground to prevent 
the animals from treading it while drinking. With a rope 
and a leathern bag distended by pieces of stick, the water 
was raised from the wells and emptied into the clay 
basins ; the latter were circular, about nine feet in 
diameter, and two feet deep. I measured the depth of 
some of the wells, and found a uniformity of forty feet. 
We halted at Soojalup for the night : here for the first 
time I saAv the beautiful antelope known by the Arabs as 
the Ariel (^Gazelle Dama). This is a species of gazelle, 
being similar in form and in shape of the horns, but as 
large as a fallow deer : the colour also nearly resembles 
that of the gazelle, with the exception of the rump, which 
is milk-white. 

These animals had no water Jiearer than the Atbara 
river, unless they could obtain a stealthy supply from the 
cattle basins of the Arabs during the night ; they were so 
wild, from being constantly disturbed and hunted by the 
^Vrab dogs, that I found it impossible to stalk them upon 
the evening of our arrival. The jungles literally swarmed 
with guinea-fowl — I shot nine in a feAv minutes, and 
returned to camp with dinner for my whole party. The 



CHAP. III.] ANTELOPE STALKING. 45 

only species of guinea-fowl that I have seen in Africa is 
that with the blue comb and wattles. These birds are a 
blessing to the traveller, as not only are they generally 
to be met with from the desert frontier throughout the 
fertile portions of the south, but they are extremely good 
eating, and far superior to the domestic guinea-fowl of 
Europe. In this spot, Soojalup, I could have killed any 
number, had I wished to expend my shot : but this most 
necessary ammunition required much nursing during a 
long exploration. I had a good supply, four hundred- 
weight of the most useful sizes, No. 6 for general shooting, 
and B B. for geese, &c. ; also a bag of No. 10, for firing into 
dense flocks of small birds. On the following morning we 
left Soojalup ; for several miles on our route were Arab 
camps and wells, with immense herds of goats, sheep, 
and cattle. Autelopes were very numerous, and it was 
exceedingly interesting to observe the new varieties as w^e 
increased our distance from the north. I shot two from 
my camel {G. Dorcas) ; they were about the size of a fine 
roebuck; — the horns were like those of the gazelle, but 
the animals were larger and darker in colour, with a dis- 
tinguishing mark in a jet black stripe longitudinally 
dividing the white of the belly from the reddish colour of 
the flank. These antelopes were exceedingly wild, and 
without the aid of a camel it would have been impossible 
to approach them. I had exchanged my donkey for Hadji 
Achmet's dromedary; tlnis mounted, I could generally 
succeed in stalking to within ninety or a hundred yards, 
by allowing the animal to feed upon the various bushes, 
as though ] had mounted it for the purpose of leading it 
to graze. This deceived the antelopes, and by carefully 
ascertaining the correct wind, I obtained several shots, 
some of which failed, owing to the unsteadiness of my 
steed, which had a strong objection to the ritle. 

The entire country from Gozerajup to Cassala is a dead 
flat, upon which there is not one tree sufficiently large to 
shade a full-sized tent : there is no real timber in the 
country, but the vast level extent of soil is a series of 
open plains and low bush of thorny mimosa : there is no 
drainage upon this perfect level ; thus, during the rainy 



46 ARAB WEAVING. [chap. hi. 

season, the soakage actually melts the soil, and forms 
deep holes throughout the country, which then becomes 
an impracticable slough, bearing grass and jungle. Upon 
this fertile tract of land, cotton might be cultivated to a 
large extent, and sent to Berber, md Atbara, from Goze- 
rajup, during the season of flood. At the present time, 
the growth is restricted to the supply required by the 
Arabs for the manufacture of their cloths. These are 
woven by themselves, the weaver sitting in a hole ex- 
cavated in the ground before his rude loom, shaded by a 
rough thatch about ten feet square, supported upon poles. 
There is a uniformity in dress throughout all the Nubian 
tribes of Arabs, the simple toga of the Eomans ; this is 
worn in many ways, as occasion may suggest, very similar 
to the Scotch plaid. The quality of cotton produced is 
the same as that of Lower Egypt, and the cloths manufac- 
tured by the Arabs, although coarse, are remarkably soft. 
The toga or tope is generally ornamented with a few red 
stripes at either extremity, and is terminated by a fringe. 

As we approached within about twenty-five miles of 
Cassala, I remarked that the country on our left was in 
many places flooded ; the Arabs, who had hitherto been 
encamped in this neighbourhood durmg the dry season, 
were migrating to other localities in the neighbourhood of ♦ 
Soojalup and Gozerajup, with their vast herds of camels 
and goats. As rain had not fallen in sufficient quantity 
to account for the fiood, I was informed that it was due to 
the river Gash, or Mareb, which, flowing from Abyssinia, 
passed beneath the walls of Cassala, and then divided 
into innumerable ramifications ; it was eventually lost, 
and disappeared in the porous soil, after having flooded a 
large extent of country. This cause accounted for the 
never-failing wells of Soojalup — doubtless a substratum 
of clay prevented the total escape of the water, which 
remained at a depth of forty feet from the surface. The 
large tract of country thus annually flooded by the river 
Gash is rendered extremely fruitful, and is the resort of 
both the Hadendowa and the Halloiiga Arabs during the 
dry season, who cultivate large quantities of dhurra, and 
other grain. Unfortunately, in these climates, fertility of 



CHAP. III.] TEE ARABS' FliAYER 47 

soil is generally combined with unhealthiness, and the 
commencement of the rainy season is the signal for fevers 
and other maladies. No sooner had we arrived in the 
flooded country than my wife was seized with a sudden 
and severe attack, which necessitated a halt upon the 
march, as she could no longer sit upon her camel. In the 
evening, several hundreds of Arabs arrived, and encamped 
around our fire. It was shortly after sunset, and it was 
interesting to watch the extreme rapidity with which these 
swarth}^ sons of the desert pitched their camp — a hundred 
fires were quickly blazing ; the women prepared the food, 
children sat in clusters round the blaze, as all were wet 
from paddling through the puddled ground, from which 
they were retreating. 

No sooner was the bustle of arrangement completed, 
than a grey old man stepped forward, and, responding to 
his call, every man of the hundreds present formed in 
line, three or four deep. At once there was total silence, 
disturbed only by the crackling of the fires, or by the cry 
of a child ; and with faces turned to the east, in attitudes 
of profound devotion, the wild but fervent followers of 
Mahomet repeated their eveniug prayer. 

The flickering red light of the fires illumined the bronze 
faces of the congregation, and as I stood before the front 
line of devotees, I took off my cap in respect for their 
faith, and at the close of their prayer I made my salaam 
to their venerable Taky (priest) ; he returned the saluta- 
tion with the cold dignity of an Arab. In this part the 
coorbatch of the Turk was unnecessary, and we shortly 
obtained supplies of milk. I ordered the dragoman 
Mahomet to inform the Faky that I was a doctor, and that 
I had the best medicines at the service of the sick, with 
advice gratis. In a short time I had many applicants, to 
whom I served out a quantity of Hollo way's pills. These 
are most useful to an explorer, as, possessing unmistakeable 
purgative properties, they create an undeniable effect upon 
the patient, which satisfies him of their value. They are 
also extremely convenient, as they may be carried by the 
pound in a tin box, and served out in infinitesimal doses 
from one to ten at a time, according to the age of the 



48 DIFFICULTY IN FORDING THE RIVER, [chap. hi. 

patients. I had a large medicine chest, with all necessary 
drugs, but I was sorely troubled by the Arab women, 
many of whom were barren, who insisted upon my supply- 
ing them with some medicine that would remove this 
stigma and render them fruitful. It was in vain to deny 
them; I therefore gave them usually a small dose of 
ipecacuanha, with the comforting word to an Arab, 
"Inshallah," "if it please God." At the same time I 
explained that the medicine was of little value. 

On the following morning, during the march, my wife 
had a renewal of fever. We had already passed a large 
village named Abre, and the country was a forest of small 
trees, which, being in leaf, threw a delicious shade. Under 
a tree, upon a comfortable bed of dry sand, we were 
obliged to lay her for several hours, until the paroxysm 
passed, and she could remount her dromedary. This she 
did with extreme difficulty, and we hurried towards 
Cassala, from which town we were only a few miles 
distant 

For the last fifty or sixty miles we had seen the Cassala 
mountain — at first a blue speck above the horizon. It 
now rose in all the beauty of a smooth and bare block of 
granite, about 3,500 feet above the level of the country, 
with the town of Cassala at the base, and the roaring 
torrent Gash flowing at our feet. When we reached the 
end of the day's march, it was between 5 and 6 P.M. The 
walled town was almost washed by the river, which was 
at least 500 yards wide. However, our guides assured us 
that it was fordable, although dangerous on account of the 
strength of the current. Camels are most stupid and 
nervous animals in water; that ridden by my wife was 
fortunately better than the generality. I sent two Arabs, 
with poles, ahead of my camel, and carefully led the way. 
After considerable difficulty, we forded the river safely; 
the water was nowhere above four feet deep, and, in most 
places, it did not exceed three ; but the great rapidity of 
the stream would have rendered it impossible for the men 
to cross without the assistance of poles. One of our 
camels lost its footing, and was carried helplessly down the 
river for some hundred 3^ards, until it stranded upon a bank. 



CHAP, in,] HOSPITALITY OF THE GREEK MERCHANT. 49 

The sun liad sunk when we entered Cassala. It is a 
walled town, surrounded by a ditch and flanking towers, 
and containing about 8,000 inhabitants, exclusive of 
troops. The houses and walls were of unburnt brick, 
smeared with clay and cow-dung. As we rode through 
the dusty streets, I sent off Mahomet with my firman to 
the Mudir ; and, not finding a suitable place inside the 
town, I returned outside the walls, where I ordered the 
tents to be pitched in a convenient spot among some wild 
fig-trees. Hardly were the tents pitched than Mahomet 
returned, accompanied by an officer and ten soldiers as a 
guard, with a polite message from the Mudir or governor, 
who had, as usual, kissed the potent firman, and raised it 
to his forehead, with the declaration that he was " my 
servant, and that all that T required should be immedi- 
ately attended to." Shortly after, we were called upon 
by several Greeks, one of whom was the army doctor, 
Signor Georgis, who, with great kindness, offered to 
supply all our wants. My wife was dreadfully weak 
and exhausted, therefore an undisturbed night's rest was 
all that was required, with the independence of our own 
tent. 

Cassala is rich in hygenas, and the night was passed 
in the discordant howling of these disgusting but useful 
animals : they are the scavengers of the country, devour- 
ing every species of filth, and clearing all carrion from the 
earth. Without the hysenas and vultures, the neighbour- 
hood of a Nubian village would be unbearable ; it is the 
idle custom of the people to leave unburied all animals 
that die. Thus, among the numerous flocks and herds, 
the casualties would create a pestilence were it not for 
the birds and beasts of prey. 

On the following morning the fever had yielded to 
quinine, and we were enabled to receive a round of visits 
— the governor and suite, Elias Bey, the doctor and a 
friend, and, lastly, Malem Georgis, an elderly Greek 
merchant, who, with great hospitality, insisted upon our 
quitting the sultry tent and sharing his own roof. We 
therefore became his guests in a most comfortable house 
for some days. Our Turk, Hadji Achmet, returned on his 

E 



50 FACILITIES OF TEE PORT OF SOUAKUL [chap. iv. 

way to Berber ; we discharged our camels, and prepared 
to start afresh from this point for the Nile tributaries of 
Abyssinia. 



CHAPTER IV. 

ROUTE FROM CASS A LA TO SOUAKIM. 

By dead reckoning, Cassala is ninety-three miles S.S.E. of 
Gozerajup, or about 340 miles from Berber. We had 
ridden about 710 miles from Korosko, 630 miles of which 
had been through scorching deserts during the hottest 
season. We were, therefore, thankful to exchange the 
intense heat of the tent for a solid roof, and to rest for a 
short time in the picturesque country of Taka. 

The direct route to Cassala, the capital of Taka, should 
be from Suez to Souakim, on the Eed Sea, and from thence, 
in sixteen days, by camel. Thus, were there a line from 
Suez to Souakim by steamers, similar to that already 
established to Jedda, Cassala would be only twenty-two 
days' journey from Cairo. At present, the arrival of 
steamers at Souakim is entirely uncertain ; therefore the 
trade of the country is paralysed by the apatliy of the 
Egyptian Government. The Abdul Azziz Company run 
their steamers regularly from Suez to Jedda ; and, although 
they advertise Souakim as a port of call, there is no de- 
pendence to be placed upon the announcement ; therefore, 
all merchants are afraid not only of delay, but of high 
warehouse charges at Souakim. The latter port is only 
four days' steaming from Suez, and, being the most central 
depot for aU merchandise both to and from Upper Egypt, 
it would become a point of great importance were regular 
means of transport established. 

Cotton of excellent quality may be grown to an un- 
limited amount in the provinces of Upper Egypt, and 
could be delivered at Souakim at a trifling cost of trans- 
port. A large quantity of gum arable is collected through- 
out this country, which sells in Cassala at 20 piastres 
(45. 2^.) the cantar of 100 lbs. There are three varieties, 



CHAP. I v.) FORTIFICATIONS OF CASS ALA. 51 

produced from various mimosas ; the finest quality is 
gathered in the province of Kordofan, but I subsequently 
met with large quantities of this species in the Base 
country. Senna grows wild in the deserts, but the low 
price hardly pays for the cost of collection. There are 
several varieties ; that with extremely narrow and sharp- 
pointed leaves is preferred. It grows in sandy situations 
where few plants would exist. The bush seldom exceeds 
three feet in height, and is generally below that standard ; 
but it is exceedingly thick, and rich in a pale green foliage, 
which is a strong temptation to the hungry camel. Curi- 
ously, this purgative plant is the animal's honne houchr,, 
and is considered most nourishing as fodder. 

The exports of the Soudan are limited to gum arabie, 
ivory, hides, senna, and bees'-wax ; the latter is the produce 
of Abyssinia. These articles are generally collected by 
travelling native traders, who sell to the larger merchants 
resident in Cassala and Khartoum, the two principal towns 
of the Soudan. The bazaar in Cassala was poor, as the 
principal articles were those of low price, adapted to the 
wants of the Arabs, who flock to the capital as a small 
London, to make their purchases of cloths, perfumery for 
the women, copper cooking pots, &c. 

The fortifications of the town, although useless against 
cannon, are considered by the Arabs as impregnable. 
The walls are of solid mud and sun-baked bricks, carefully 
loopholed for musketry, while a deep fosse, by which it is 
surrounded, is a safeguard against a sudden surprise. 

These engineering precautions were rendered necessary 
by the ferocity of the Arabs, who fought the Egyptians 
with great determination for some years before they were 
finally subdued. Although the weapons of all the Arab 
tribes are the simple sword and lance, they defended their 
country against the regular troops of Egypt until they 
were completely defeated by a scarcity of water, against 
which there could be no resistance. The Egyptians turned 
the course of the river Gash, and entirely shut off the 
supply from one portion of the country, while they inun- 
dated another. This was effected by an immense dam, 
formed of the stems of the dome palms, as a double row 

k2 



52 CRUEL TAXATION. [chap. tv. 

of piles, while the interior was rendered water-tight by a 
lining of matting filled up with sand. 

Cassala was built about twenty years before I visited 
the country, after Taka had been conquered and annexed 
to Egypt. The general annexation of the Soudan and 
the submission of the numerous Arab tribes to the 
Viceroy have been the first steps necessary to the im- 
provement of the country. Although the Egyptians are 
liard masters, and do not trouble themselves about the 
future well-being of the conquered races, it must be re- 
membered that, prior to the annexation, all the tribes were 
at war among themselves. There was neither government 
nor law ; thus the whole country was closed to Europeans. 
At present, there is no more danger in travelling in 
Upper Egypt than in crossing Hyde Park after dark, pro- 
vided the traveller be just and courteous. At the time of 
my visit to Cassala in 1861, the Arab tribes were separately 
governed by their own chiefs or sheiks, who were respon- 
sible to the Egyptian authorities for the taxes due from 
their people : since that period, the entire tribes of all 
denominations have been placed under the authority of 
that grand old Arab patriarch Achmet Abou Sinn, to be 
hereafter mentioned. The Sheik Moosa, of the Haden- 
dowa tribe, was in prison during our stay in that country, 
for some breach of discipline in his dealings with the 
Egyptian Government. The iron hand of despotism has 
produced a marvellous change among the Arabs, who are 
rendered utterly powerless by the system of government 
adopted by the Egyptians ; unfortunately, this harsh 
system has the effect of paralysing all industry. 

The principal object of Turks and Egyptians in annexa- 
tion, is to increase their power of taxation by gaining an 
additional number of subjects. Thus, although many 
advantages have accrued to the Arab provinces of Nubia 
through Egyptian rule, there exists an amount of mistrust 
between the governed and the governing. Not only are 
the camels, cattle, and sheep subjected to a tax, but every 
attempt at cultivation is thwarted by the authorities, who 
impose a fine or tax upon the superficial area of the culti- 
vated land. Thus, no one will cultivate more than is 



CHAP. IV.] EXTREME CHEAPNESS OF CORN. 53 

absolutely necessary, as he dreads the difficulties tltat the 
broad acres of waving crops would entail upon his family. 
The hond fide tax is a bagatelle to the amounts squeezed 
from him by the extortionate soldiery, who are the agents 
employed by the sheik ; these must have their share of the 
plunder, in excess of the amount to be delivered to their 
employer ; he, also, must have his plunder before he parts 
with the bags of dollars to the governor of the province 
Thus the unfortunate cultivator is ground down ; should 
he refuse to pay the necessary "baksheesh" or present to 
the tax-collectors, some false charge is trumped up against 
him, and he is thrown into prison. As a green field is 
an attraction to a flight of locusts in their desolating 
voyage, so is a luxuriant farm in the Soudan a point for 
tlie tax-collectors of Upper Egypt. I have frequently 
ridden several days' journey through a succession of empty 
villages, deserted by the inhabitants upon the report of 
the soldiers' approach ; the women and children, goats and 
cattle, camels and asses, have all been removed into the 
wilderness for refuge, wdiile their crops of corn have been 
left standing for the plunderers, who w^ould be too idle to 
reap and thrash the grain. 

Notwithstanding the misrule that fetters the steps of 
improvement, Nature has bestowed such great capabilities 
of production in the fertile soil of this country, that the 
yield of a small surface is more than sufficient for the 
requirements of the population, and actual poverty is 
unknown. The average price of dhurra is fifteen piastres 
per ''rachel," or about 3s. 2d. for 500 lbs. upon the spot 
where it is grown. The dhurra {Sorghum andropogon) is 
the grain most commonly used throughout the Soudan ; 
there are great varieties of this plant, of which the most 
common are the white and the red. The land is not only 
favoured by Nature by its fertility, but the intense heat of 
the summer is the labourer's great assistant. As before 
described, all vegetation entirely disappears in the glaring 
sun, or becomes so dry that it is swept off by fire ; thus 
the soil is perfectly clean and fit for immediate cultivation 
upon the arrival of the rains. The tool generally used is 
similar to the Dutch hoe. With this simple implement 



54 ARAB BREAD. [cHAr. iv. 

the surface is scratched to the depth of about two inches, 
and the seeds of the dhurra are dibbled in about three feet 
apart, in rows from four to five feet in width. Two seeds are 
dropped into each hole. A few days after the first shower 
they rise above the ground, and when about six inches 
high, the whole population turn out of their villages at 
break of day to weed the dhurra fields. Sown in July, it 
is harvested in February and March. Eight months are 
thus required for the cultivation of this cereal in the 
intense heat of Nubia. For the first three months the 
growth is extremely rapid, and the stem attains a height 
of six or seven feet. When at perfection on the ricli 
soil of the Taka country, the plant averages a height of 
ten feet,, the circumference of the stem being about four 
inches. The crown is a feather very similar to that of the 
sugar cane ; the blossom falls, and the feather becomes a 
head of dhurra, weighing about two pounds. Each grain 
is about the size of hemp-seed. I took the trouble of 
counting the corns contained in an average-sized head, 
the result being 4,848. The process of harvesting and 
thrashing are remarkably simple, as the heads are simply 
detached from the straw and beaten out in piles. The 
dried straw is a substitute for sticks in forming the walls 
of the village huts ; these are plastered with clay and 
cow-dung, which form the Arab's lath and plaster. 

The millers' work is exclusively the province of the 
women. There are no circular hand-mills, as among 
Oriental nations ; but the corn is ground upon a simple 
flat stone, of either gneiss or granite, a,bout two feet in 
length by fourteen inches in width. The face of this is 
roughened by beating with a sharp-pointed piece of harder 
stone, such as quartz, or hornblende, and the grain is 
reduced to flour by great labour and repeated grinding or 
rubbing with a stone rolling-pin. The flour is mixed with 
water and allowed to ferment ; it is then made into thin 
pancakes upon an earthenware flat portable hearth. This 
species of leavened bread is known to the Arabs as the 
kisra. It is not very palatable, but it is extremely well 
suited to Arab cookery, as it can be rolled up like a pan- 
cake and dipped in the general dish of meat and gravy 



CHAP. IV.] MILITARY POSITION OF CASS ALA. 55 

very conveniently, in the absence of spoons and forks. No 
man will condescend to grind the corn, and even the Arab 
women have such an objection to this labour, that one of 
the conditions of matrimony enforced upon the husband, if 
possible, provides the wife with a slave woman to prepare 
the flour. 

Hitherto we had a large stock of biscuits, but as our 
dragoman Mahomet had, in a curious fit of amiability, 
dispensed them among the camel-drivers, we were now 
reduced to the Arab kisras. Although not as palatable as 
wheaten bread, the flour of dhurra is exceedingly nourish- 
ing, containing, according to Professor Johnston's analysis, 
llj per cent, of gluten, or 1 J per cent, more than English 
wheaten flour. Thus men and beasts thrive, especially 
horses, which acquire an excellent condition. 

The neighbourhood of Cassala is well adapted for the 
presence of a large town and military station, as the fertile 
soil produces the necessary supplies, while the river Gash 
affords excellent water. In the rainy season this should 
be filtered, as it brings down many impurities from the 
torrents of Abyssinia, but in the heat of summer the river 
is entirely dry, and clear and wholesome water is procured 
from w^ells in the sandy bed. The south and south-east 
of Cassala is wild and mountainous, affording excellent 
localities ' for hill stations during the unhealthy rainy 
season ; but such sanitary arrangements for the preserva- 
tion of troops are about as much heeded by the Egyptian 
Government as by our own, and regiments are left in 
unwholesome climates to take their chance, although the 
means of safety are at hand. 

The Taka country being the extreme frontier of Egypt, 
constant raids are made by the Egyptians upon their neigh- 
bours — the hostile Bas^, through which country the river 
Gash or Mareb descends. I was anxious to procure all the 
information possible concerning the Base, as it would be 
necessary to traverse the greater portion in exploring the 
Settite river, which is the principal tributary of the Atbara, 
and which is in fact the main and parent stream, although 
bearing a different name. I heard but one opinion of the 
Base — it was a wild and independent country, inhabited 



56 THE BASE. [ciTAP. iv. 

by a ferocious race, whose hand was against every man, 
and who in return were the enemies of all by whom they 
were surrounded — Egyptians, Abyssinians, Arabs, and Mek 
Nimmur; nevertheless, secure in their mountainous strong- 
hold, they defied all adversaries. The Base is a portion of 
Abyssinia, but the origin of the tribe that occupies this 
ineradicable hornet's nest is unknown. Whether they are 
the remnant of the original Ethiopians, who possessed the 
country prior to the conquests of the Abyssinians, or 
whether they are descended from the woolly-haired tribes 
of the south banks of the Blue Nile, is equally a mystery ; 
all we know is that they are of the same type as the 
inhabitants of Fazogle, of the upper portion of the Blue 
Eiver; they are exceedingly black, with woolly hair, re- 
sembling in that respect the negro, but without the flat 
nose or prognathous jaw. No quarter is given on either 
side, should the Base meet the Arabs, with whom war is to 
the knife. In spite of the overwhelming superiority of 
their adversaries, the Base cannot be positively subdued ; 
armed with the lance as their only weapon, but depending 
upon extreme agility and the natural difficulties of their 
mountain passes, the attack of the Base is always by 
stealth ; their spies are ever prowling about unseen like 
the leopard, and their onset is invariably a surprise; 
success or defeat are alike followed by a rapid retreat to 
their mountpoins. 

As there is nothing to be obtained by the plunder of the 
Base but women and children as slaves, the country is 
generally avoided, unless visited for the express purpose of 
a slave razzia. Cultivation being extremely limited, the 
greater portion of the country is perfectly wild, and is 
never visited even by the Base themselves unless for the 
purpose of hunting. Several beautiful rivers descend from 
the mountain ranges, which ultimately flow into the 
Atbara ; these, unlike the latter river, are never dry : thus, 
with a constant supply of water, in a country of forest 
and herbage, the Bas(^ abounds in elephants, rhinoceroses, 
hippopotami, giraffes, buffaloes, lions, leopards, and great 
numbers of the antelope tribe. 

Cassala, thus situated on the confines of the Taka 



CHAP. IV.] MAHOMErS FAMILY TREE. 57 

country, is an important military point in the event of war 
between Egypt and Abyssinia, as the Base would be in- 
valuable as allies to the Egyptians ; their country com- 
mands the very heart of Abyssinia, and their knowledge 
of the roads would be an incalculable advantage to an 
invading force. 

On the 14th July I had concluded my arrangements for 
the start ; there had been some difficulty in procuring 
camels, but the all-powerful firman was a never-failing 
talisman, and, as the Arabs had declined to let their 
animals for hire, the Governor despatched a number of 
soldiers and seized the required number, including their 
owners. I engaged two wild young Arabs of eighteen and 
twenty years of age, named Bacheet and Wat Gamma : 
the latter being interpreted signifies " Son of the Moon." 
This in no way suggests lunacy, but the young Arab had 
happened to enter this world on the day of the new 
moon, which was considered to be a particularly fortunate 
and brilliant omen at his birth. Whether the climax of 
his good fortune had arrived at the momeut he entered my 
service I know not, but, if so, there was a cloud over his 
happiness in his subjection to Mahomet the dragoman, who 
rejoiced in the opportunity of bullying the two inferiors. 
Wat Gamma was a quiet, steady, well-conducted lad, who 
bore oppression mildly ; but the younger, Bacheet, was a 
fiery, wild young Arab, who, although an excellent boy in 
his peculiar way, was almost incapable of being tamed and 
domesticated. I at once perceived that Mahomet would 
have a determined rebel to control, which I confess I did 
not regret. Wages were not high in this part of the 
world, — the lads were engaged at one and a half dollar psr 
month and their keep. Mahomet, who was a great man, 
suffered from the same complaint to which great men are 
(in those countries) particularly subject : wherever he 
went, he was attacked with claimants of relationship ; he 
\'vas overwhelmed with professions of friendship from people 
who claimed to be connexions of some of his family ; in 
fact, if all the ramifications of his race were correctly 
represented by the claimants of relationship, Mahomet's 
family tree would have shaded the Nubian desert. 



58 MAHOMET MEETS RELATIONS. [chap. iv. 

We all have our foibles : the strongest fort has its 
feeble point, as the chain snaps at its weakest link ; — family 
pride was Mahomet's weak link. This was his tender point ; 
and Mahomet, the great and the imperious, yielded to the 
gentle scratching of his ear if a stranger claimed connexion 
with his ancient lineage. Of course he had no family, 
with the exception of his wife and two children, whom he 
had left in Cairo. The lady whom he had honoured by 
an admission to the domestic circle of the Mahomets was 
suffering from a broken arm when we started from Egypt, 
as she had cooked the dinner badly, and the " gaddah," 
or large wooden bowl, had been thrown at her by the 
naturally indignant husband, precisely as he had thrown 
the axe at one man and the basin at another, while in our 
service : these were little contrdemii'ps that could hardly 
disturb the dignity of so great a man. Mahomet met 
several relations at Cassala : one borrowed money of him ; 
another stole his pipe ; the third, who declared that 
nothing should separate them now that "by the blessing 
of God " they had met, determined to accompany him 
through all the difficulties of our expedition, provided that 
Mahomet would only permit him to serve for love, without 
wages. I gave Mahomet some little advice upon this 
point, reminding him that, although the clothes of the 
party were only worth a few piastres, the spoons and forks 
were silver, therefore I should hold him responsible for the 
honesty of his friend. This reflection upon the family gave 
great offence, and he assured me that Achmet, our quon- 
dam acquaintance, w^as so near a relation that he was— 

I assisted him in the genealogical distinction : " Mother's 
brother's cousin's sister's mother's son ? Eh, Mahomet ? " 
" Yes, sar, that's it ! " " Yery well, Mahomet ; mind he 
don't steal the spoons, and thrash him if he doesn't do his 
work ! " " Yes, sar," replied Mahomet ; " he all same like 
one brother, he one good man will do his business quietly ; 
if not, master lick him." The new relation not understand- 
ing English, was perfectly satisfied with the success of his 
introduction, and from that moment he became one of the 
party. One more addition, and our arrangemeuts were 
completed : — the Governor of Cassala was determined 



CHAP. IV.] STALKING THE ARIEL 59 

that we should not start without a representative of tlio 
Government, in the shape of a soldier guide ; he accord- 
ingly gave us a black man, a corporal in one of the Nubian 
regiments, who was so renowned as a sportsman that he 
went by the name of " El Baggar " (the cow), on account 
of his having killed several of the oryx antelope, known 
as " El Baggar et AYahash " (the cow of the desert). 

The rains had fairly commenced, as a heavy thunder- 
shower generally fell at about 2 p.m. On the loth, the 
entire day was passed in transporting our baggage across 
the river Gash to the point from wiiich we had started 
upon our arrival at Cassala: this we accomplished with 
much difi&culty, with the assistance of about a hundred 
men supplied by the Governor, from whom we had re- 
ceived much attention and politeness. We camped for 
the night upon the margin of the river, and marched on 
the following morning at daybreak due west towards 
the Atbara. 

The country w^as a gi-eat improvement upon that we had 
hitherto passed ; the trees were larger, and vast plains of 
young grass, interspersed w^ith green bush, stretched to the 
horizon. The soil was an exceedingly rich loam, most 
tenacious when wetted : far as the eye could reach to 
the north and west of Cassala was the dead level plain, 
while to the south and east arose a broken chain of 
mountains. 

We had not proceeded many miles, when the numerous 
tracks of antelopes upon the soil, moistened by the shower 
of yesterday, proved that we had arrived in a sporting 
country ; shortly after, we saw a herd of about fifty ariels 
{Gazelle Bama). To stalk these wary antelopes I was 
obliged to separate from my party, who continued on their 
direct ronte. Eiding upon my camel, I tried every con- 
ceivable dodge w^ithout success. I could not approach 
them nearer than about 300 yards. They did not gallop 
off at once, but made a rush for a few hundred paces, and 
then faced about to gaze at the approaching camel. After 
having exhausted my patience to no purpose, I tried 
another plan : instead of advancing against the wind as 
before, I made a great circuit and gave them the wind. No 



60 BAGGED THE GAME, [chap. iv. 

sooner was I in good cover behind a mimosa bush than I 
dismounted from my camel, and, leading it until within 
view of the shy herd, I tied it to a tree, keeping behind 
the animal so as to be well concealed. I succeeded in 
retreating through the bushes unobserved, leaving the 
camel as a gazing point to attract their attention. Eunning 
at my best speed to the same point from which I had 
commenced my circuit, and keeping under cover of the 
scattered bushes, I thus obtained the correct wind, and 
stalked up from bush to bush behind the herd, who were 
curiously watching the tied camel, that was quietly gazing 
on a mimosa. In this way I had succeeded in getting 
within 150 yards of the beautiful herd, when a sudden 
fright seized them, and they rushed off in an opposite 
direction to the camel^ so as to pass about 120 yards on my 
left ; as they came by in full speed, I singled out a superb 
animal, and tried the first barrel of the little Fletcher rifle. 
I heard the crack of the ball, and almost immediately 
afterwards the herd passed on, leaving one lagging behind 
at a slow canter ; this w^as my wounded ariel, who shortly 
halted, and laid down in an open glade. Having no dog, I 
took the greatest precaution in stalking, as a wounded 
antelope is almost certain to escape if once disturbed when 
it has lain down. There was a small withered stem of a 
tree not thicker than a man's thigh ; this grew within 
thirty yards of the antelope ; my only chance of approach 
was to take a line direct for this slight object of cover. 
The wind was favourable, and I crept along the ground. 
I had succeeded in arriving within a few yards of the tree, 
when up jumped the antelope, and bounded off as though 
unhurt ; but there was no chance for it at this distance, 
and I rolled it over with a shot through the spine. 

Having done the needful with my beautiful prize, and 
extracted the interior, I returned for my camel that had so 
well assisted in the stalk. Hardly had I led the animal 
to the body of the ariel, when I heard a rushing sound like 
a strong wind, and down came a vulture with its wings 
collapsed, falling from an immense height direct to its 
prey, in its eagerness to be the first in the race. By the 
time that I had fastened the ariel across the back of the 



CHAP. IV.] DESCENT OF VULTURES. 6 1 

camel, many vultures were sitting upon the ground at a 
few yards' distance, while others were arriving every 
minute : before I had shot the ariel, not a vulture had 
been in sight ; the instant that I retreated from the spot 
a flock of ravenous beaks were tearing at the offal. 

In the constant doubling necessary during the stalk I 
had quite lost my way. The level plain to the liorizon, 
covered with scattered mimosas, offered no object as a 
guide. I was exceedingly thirsty, as the heat was intense, 
and I had been taking rapid exercise ; unfortunately my 
water-skin was slung upon my wife's camel. However 
unpleasant the situation, my pocket compass would give 
me the direction, as we had been steering due west; 
therefore, as I had turned to my left when I left my party, 
a course KW. should bring me across their tracks, if they 
had continued on their route. The position of the Cassala 
mountain agreed with this course; therefore, remounting 
my dromedary, with the ariel slung behind the saddle, I 
hastened to rejoin our caravan. After about half an hour 
I heard a shot fired not far in advance, and I shortly 
joined the party, who had fired a gun to give me the 
* direction. A long and deep pull at the water-skin was 
the first salutation. 

We halted that night near a small pond formed by the 
recent heavy rain. Fortunately the sky was clear ; there 
was abundance of fuel, and pots were shortly boiling an 
excellent stew of ariel venison and burnt onions. The 
latter delicious bulbs are the blessing of Upper Egypt : 
I have lived for days upon nothing but raw onions 
and sun-dried rusks. Nothing is so good a substitute 
for meat as an onion ; but if raw, it should be cut into 
thin slices, and allowed to soak for half an hour in water, 
which should be poured off: the onion thus loses its 
pungency, and becomes mild and agreeable ; with the 
accompaniment of a little oil and vinegar it forms an 
excellent salad. 

The following day's march led us through the same 
dead level of grassy plains and mimosas, enlivened with 
numerous herds of ariels and large black- striped gazelles 
{Dorcas), one of which I succeeded in shooting for my 



G2 THE SOURCE OF THE DELTA. [chaf. iv. 

people. After nine hours' journey we arrived at the 
valley of the Atbara, in all sixteen hours' actual marching 
from Cassala. 

There was an extraordinary change in the appearance 
of the river between Gozerajup and this spot. There was 
no longer the vast sandy desert with the river flowing 
through its sterile course on a level with the surface of 
the country, but after traversing an apparently perfect flat 
of forty-five miles of rich alluvial soil, we had suddenly 
arrived upon the edge of a deep valley, between five and 
six miles wide, at the bottom of which, about 200 feet 
below the general level of the country, flowed the river 
Atbara. On the opposite side of the valley, the same vast 
table lands continued to the western horizon. 

We commenced the descent towards the river; the 
valley was a succession of gullies and ravines, of land- 
slips and watercourses ; the entire hollow, of miles in 
width, had evidently been the work of the river. How 
many ages had the rains and the stream been at work to 
scoop out from the flat table land this deep and broad 
valley ? Here w^as the giant labourer that had shovelled 
the rich loam upon the delta of Lower Egypt ! Upon 
these vast flats of fertile soil there can be no drainage 
except through soakage. The deep valley is therefore the 
receptacle not only for the water that oozes from its sides, 
but subterranean channels, bursting as land-springs from 
all parts of the walls of the valley, wash down the more 
soluble portions of earth, and continually waste avv^ay the 
soil. Landslips occur daily during the rainy season ; 
streams of rich mud pour down the valley's slopes, and as 
the river flows beneath in a swollen torrent, the friable 
banks topple down into the stream and dissolve. The 
Atbara becomes the thickness of pea-soup, as its muddy 
waters steadily perform the duty they have fulfilled from 
age to age. Thus was the great river at work upon our 
arrival on its bank at the bottom of the valley. The 
Arab name, "Bahr el Aswat" (black river) was well 
bestowed ; it was the black mother of Egypt, still carrying 
to her offspring the nourishment that had first formed 
the Delta. 



cH/p. v.] COTTON FARM OF MALEM GEORGIS. 63 

At this point of interest, the journey had commenced ; 
the deserts were passed, all was fertility and life : wherever 
the sources of the Nile might be, the Aibara was the 
parent of Egypt ! This was my first impression, to be 
riroved hereafter. 



CHAPTEE V. 

THE STORM. 

A VIOLENT thunderstorm, with a deluge of rain, broke upon 
our camp upon the banks of the Atbara, fortunately just 
after the tents were pitched. We thus had an example 
of the extraordinary effects of the heavy rain in tearing 
away the soil of the valley. Trifling watercourses were 
swollen to torrents ; banks of earth became loosened and 
fell in, and the rush of mud and water upon all sides 
swept forward into the river with a rapidity which 
threatened the destruction of the country, could such a 
tempest endure for a few days. In a couple of hours all 
was over. The river w^as narrower than in its passage 
through the desert, but was proportionately deeper. The 
name of the village on the opposite bank was Goorashee, 
with which a means of communication had been estab- 
lished by a ferry-boat belonging to our friend and late 
host, Malem Georgis, the Greek merchant of Cassala. 
He had much trouble in obtaining permission from the 
authorities to introduce this novelty, which was looked 
upon as an innovation, as such a convenience had never 
before existed. The enterprising proprietor had likewise 
established a cotton farm at Goorashee, which appeared to 
succeed admirably, and was an undeniable example of 
what could be produced in this fertile country were the 
spirit of improvement awakened. Notwithstanding the 
advantage of the ferry-boat, many of the Arabs preferred 
to swim their camels across the river to paying a trifle to 
the ferryman. A camel either cannot or will not swim 



64 FL'ROCIOUS CROCODILES. [chap. v. 

unless it is supported by inflated skins : tlius the passage 
of the broad river Atbara (at this spot about 300 yards 
^vide) is an affair of great difficulty. Two water-skins 
are inflated, and attached to the camel by a band passed 
like a girth beneath the belly. Thus arranged, a man sits 
upon its back, while one or two swim by the side as 
guides. The current of the Atbara runs at a rapid rate : 
thus the camel is generally carried at least half a mile 
down the river before it can gain the opposite bank. A 
few days before our arrival, a man had been snatched 
from the back of his camel while crossing, and was carried 
off by a crocodile. Another man had been taken during 
the last week while swimming the river upon a log. It 
was supposed that these accidents were due to the same 
crocodile, who was accustomed to bask upon a mud bank 
at the foot of the cotton plantation. On the day follow- 
ing our arrival at the Atbara, we found that our camel- 
drivers had absconded during the night mth their camels ; 
these were the men who had been forced to serve by the 
Governor of Cassala. There was no possibility of pro- 
ceeding for some days, therefore I sent El Baggar across 
the river to endeavour to engage camels, while I devoted 
myself to a search for the crocodile. I shortly discovered 
that it was unfair in the extreme to charge one particular 
animal with the death of the two Arabs, as several large 
crocodiles were lying upon the mud in various places. A 
smaller one was lying asleep high and dry upon the 
bank ; the wind was blowing strong, so that, by carefuU}^ 
approaching, I secured a good shot within thirty yards, 
and killed it on the spot by a bullet through the head, 
placed about an inch above the eyes. 

After some time, the large crocodiles, who had taken to 
the water at the report of the gun, again appeared, and 
crawled slowly out of the muddy river to their basking- 
places upon the bank. A crocodile usually sleeps with its 
mouth wide open ; I therefore waited until the immense 
jaws of the nearest were well expanded, showing a grand 
row of glittering teeth, when I crept carefully towards it 
through the garden of thickly-planted cotton. Bacheet 
and Wat Gamma followed in great eagerness. In a short 



CHAP, v.] SHOOT A MONSTER. 65 

time I arrived witliin about forty yards of tlie beast, as it 
lay upon a flat mud bank formed by one of the numerous 
torrents that had carried down the soil during the storm 
of yesterday. The cover ceased, and it was impossible to 
approach nearer without alarming the crocodile ; it was 
a fine specimen, apparently nineteen or twenty feet in 
length, and I took a steady shot with the little Fletcher 
rifle at the temple, exactly in front of the point of union 
of the head with the spine. The jaws clashed together, 
and a convulsive start followed by a twitching of the tail 
led me to suppose that sudden death had succeeded the 
shot ; but, knowing the peculiar tenacity of life possessed 
by the crocodile, 1 fired another shot at the shoulder, as 
the huge body lay so close to the river's edge that the 
slightest struggle would cause it to disappear. To my 
surprise, this shot, far from producing a quietus, gave rise 
to a series of extraordinary convulsive struggles. One 
moment it rolled upon its back, lashed out right and left 
with its tail, and ended by toppling over into the river. 

This was too much for the excitable Bacheet, who, 
followed by his friend, Wat Gamma, with more courage 
than discretion, rushed into the river, and endeavoured 
to catch the crocodile by the tail. Before I had time 
to call them back, these two Arab water-dogs were up 
to their necks in the river, screaming out directions to 
each other while they were feeling for the body of the 
monster with their feet. At leno^th I succeeded in callincf 
them to shore, and we almost immediately saw the body 
of the crocodile appear belly upwards, about fifty yards 
down the stream \ the forepaws were above the water, 
but, after rolling round several times, it once more dis- 
appeared, rapidly carried away by the muddy torrent. 
This was quite enough for the Arabs, who had been 
watching the event from the opposite bank of the river, 
and the report quickly spread that two crocodiles were 
killed, one of which they declared to be the public enemy 
that had taken tiie men at the ferry, but upon what 
evidence I cannot understand. Although my Arabs 
looked forward to a dinner of crocodile flesh, I was 
obliged to search for something of rather milder flavour 

F 



66 RIJSISTANCE OF A CROCODILE'S SCALES, [chap. v. 

for ourselves. I waited for about an hour while the first 
crocodile was being divided, when I took a shot gun and 
succeeded in killing three geese and a species of antelope 
no larger than a hare, known by the Arabs as the Dik- 
dik [Nanotragns Hempriclvianus). This little creature 
inhabits thick bush. Since my return to England, I 
have seen a good specimen in the Zoological Gardens of 
the Eegent's Park. 

Upon my arrival at the tents, I found the camp redolent 
of musk from the flesh of the crocodile, and the people 
were quarrelling for the musk glands, which they had 
extracted, and which are much prized by the Arab 
women, who wear them strung like beads upon a 
necklace. 

A crocodile possesses four of such glands ; they vary 
in size according to the age of the reptile, but they are 
generally about as large as a hazel-nut, when dried. Two 
glands are situated in the groin, and two in the throat, a 
little in advance of the fore-legs. I have noticed two 
species of crocodiles throughout all the rivers of Abys- 
sinia, and in the White Kile. One of these is of a dark 
browij colour, and much shorter and thicker in proportion 
than the other, which grows to an immense length, and 
is generally of a pale greenish yellow. Throughout the 
Atbara, crocodiles are extremely mischievous and bold ; 
this can be accounted for by the constant presence of 
Arabs and their flocks, which the crocodiles have ceased 
te fear, as they exact a heavy tribute in their frequent 
passages of the river. The Arabs assert that the dark- 
coloured, thick-bodied species is more to be dreaded 
than tlie other. 

The common belief that the scales of the crocodile 
will stop a bullet is very erroneous. If a rifle is loaded 
with the moderate charge of two and a half drachms, 
it will throw an ounce ball through the scales of the 
hardest portion of the back ; but were the scales struck 
obliquely, the bullet might possibly glance from the 
surface, as in like manner it would ricochet from the 
surface of water. The crocodile is so difficult to kill 
outright, that people are apt to imagine that the scales 



CHAP, v.] DISCOVER GOLD. 67 

have resisted their bullets. The only sliots that will 
produce instant death are those that strike the brain 
or the spine through the neck. A shot throngli the 
shoulder is fatal ; but as the body immediately sinks, and 
does not reappear upon the surface until the gases have 
distended the carcase, the game is generally carried away 
by the stream before it has had time to float. The body 
of a crocodile requires from twelve to eighteen hours 
before it will rise to the surface, while that of the hippo- 
potamus will never remain longer than two hours beneath 
the water, and will generally rise in an hour and a half 
after death. This difference in time depends upon the 
depth and temperature; in deep holes of the river of 
from thirty to fifty feet, the water is much cooler near 
the bottom, thus the gas is not generated in the body so 
quickly as in shallow and warmer water. The crocodile 
is not a grass-feeder, therefore the stomach is compara- 
tively small, and the contents do not generate the amount 
of gas that so quickly distends the huge stomach of the 
hippopotamus ; thus the body of the former requires a 
longer period before it will rise to the surface. 

In the eveninc^ we crossed with our bas^ofaaje and 
people to the opposite side of the river, and .pitched oiir 
tents at the village of Goorashee. A small watercourse 
had brought down a large quantity of black sand. Think- 
ing it probable that gold might exist in the same locality, 
I washed some earth in a copper basin, and quickly dis- 
covered a few specks of the precious metal. Gold is 
found in small quantities in the sand of the Atbara; at 
Fazogle, on the Blue Nile, there are mines of this metal 
worked by the Egyptian Government. From my sub- 
sequent experience I have no doubt that valuable minerals 
exist in large quantities throughout the lofty chain of 
Abyssinian mountains from which these rivers derive 
their sources. 

The camels arrived, and once more we were ready to 
start. Our factotum. El Baggar, had collected a number of 
both baggage -camels and ridmg dromedaries or "hygeens;" 
the latter he had brought for approval, as we had suffered 
much from the extreme roughness of our late camels. 

F 2 



68 HEAVY AGTIO'N OF THE CAMEL. [chap. v. 

There is the same difference between a good hygeen or 
dromedary and a baggage -camel as between the thorough- 
bred and the cart-horse ; and it appears absurd in the 
eyes of the Arabs that a man of any position should 
ride a baggage-camel. Apart from all ideas of etiquette, 
the motion of the latter animal is quite sufficient w^arning. 
Of all species of fatigue, the back-breaking monotonous 
swing of a heavy camel is the worst ; and, should the 
rider lose patience, and administer a sharp cut with the 
coorbatch that induces the creature to break into a trot, 
the torture of the rack is a pleasant tickling compared 
to the sensation of having your spine driven by a sledge- 
hammer from below, half a foot deeper into the skulL 
The human frame may be inured to almost anything ; 
thus the Arabs, who have ahvays been accustomed to 
this kind of exercise, hardly feel the motion, and the 
portion of the body most subject to pain in riding a 
rough camel upon two bare pieces of wood for a saddle, 
becomes naturally adapted for such rough service, as 
monkeys become hardened from constantly sitting upon 
rough substances. The children commence almost as 
soon as they are born, as they must accompany their 
mothers in their annual migrations; and no sooner can 
the young Arab sit astride and hold on, than he is placed 
behind his father's saddle, to which he clings, while he 
bumps upon the bare back of the jolting camel, Nature 
quickly arranges a horny protection to the nerves, by 
the thickening of the skin ; thus, an Arab's opinion of 
the action of a riding hygeen should never be accepted 
without a personal trial What appears delightful to 
him may be torture to you, as a strong breeze and a 
rough sea may be charming to a sailor, but worse than 
death to a landsman. 

I was determined not to accept the camels now offered 
as hygeens until I had seen them tried ; I accordingly 
ordered our black soldier El Baggar to saddle the most 
easy-actioned animal for my wile, but T wished to see 
him put it through a variety of paces before she should 
accept it. The delighted El Baggar, who from long 
practice was as hard as the heel of a boot, disdained ^ 



CHAP, v.] THE EASY-GOER. SUITABLE FOR A LADY! 69 

saddle; the animal knelt, was mounted, and off lie 
started at full trot, performing a circle of about fifty 
yards' diameter as though in a circus. I never saw such 
an exhibition ! " Warranted quiet to ride, of easy action, 
and fit for a lady ! " This had been the character received 
with the rampant brute, who now, with head and tail 
erect, went tearing round the circle, screaming and roaring 
like a wild beast, throwing his fore-legs forward, and 
stepping at least three feet high in his trot. AVhere was 
El Baggar? A disjointed-looking black figure was some- 
times on the back of this easy-going camel, sometimes a 
foot high in the air; arms, head, legs, hands appeared 
like a confused mass of dislocations ; the woolly hair of 
this unearthly individual, that had been carefully trained 
in long stiff narrow curls, precisely similar to the tobacco 
known as " negro-liead," alternately started upright e7i 
masse, as though under the influence of electricity, and 
then fell as suddenly upon his shoulders : had the dark 
individual been a "black dose," he or it could not have 
been more thoroughly shaken. This object, so thoroughly 
disguised by rapidity of movement, was El Baggar ; happy, 
delighted El Baggar ! As he came rapidly round towards 
us flourishing his coorbatch, I called to him, " Is that a 
nice hygeen for the Sit (lady), El Baggar? is it very 
easy?" He was almost incapable of a reply. "V-e-r-y 
e-e-a-a-s-y," replied the trustworthy authority, "j-j-j-just 
the thin-n-n-g for the S-i-i-i-t-t-t." "All right, that will 
do," I answered, and the jockey pulled up his steed. 
"Are the other camels better or worse than that?" I 
asked. " Much worse," replied El Baggar ; " the others are 
rather rough, but this is an easy-goer, and will suit the 
lady well." 

It was impossible to hire a good hygeen ; an Arab 
prizes his riding animal too much, and . invariably re- 
fuses to let it to a stranger, but generally imposes upon 
him by substituting* some lightly-built camel, that he 
thinks will pass muster. I accordingly chose for my 
Avife a steady-going animal from among the baggage- 
camels, trusting to be able to obtain a hygeen from the 
great Sheik Abou Sinn, who was encamped upon'the road 



70 HOOKED THORNS OF THE MIMOSA. [chap. v. 

we were about to take along the valley of the Atbara ; 
we arranged to lea,ve Goorashee on the following day. 

Upon arriving at the highest point of the valley, we 
found ourselves on the vast table land that stretches 
from the Atbara to the Nile. At this season the entire 
surface had a faint tint of green, as the young shoots 
of grass had replied to the late showers of rain ; so 
perfect a level was this gxeat tract of fertile country, 
that within a mile of the valley of the Atbara there 
was neither furrow nor watercourse, but the escape of 
the rainfall was by simple soakage. As usual, the land 
was dotted with mimosas, all of which were now burst- 
ing into leaf The thorns of the different varieties of 
these trees are an extraordinary freak of Nature, as she 
appears to have exhausted all her art in producing 
an apparently useless' arrangement of defence. The 
mimosas that are most common in the Soudan provinces 
are mere bushes, seldom exceeding six feet in height ; 
these spread out towards the top like mushrooms, but 
the branches commence within two feet of the ground ; 
they are armed with thorns in the shape of hsh-hooks, 
which they resemble in sharpness and strength. A 
thick jungle composed of such bushes is perfectly im- 
penetrable to any animals but elephants, rhinoceroses, and 
buffaloes ; and should the clothes of a man become en- 
tangled in such thorns, either they must give way, or 
he must remain a prisoner. The mimosa that is known 
among the Arabs as the Kittar is one of the worst 
species, and is probably similar to that which caught 
Absalom by the hair ; this differs from the well-known 
"Wait-a-bit" of South Africa, as no milder nickname 
could be applied than "Dead-stop." Were the clothes 
of strong material, it would be perfectly impossible to 
break through a kittar-bush. 

A magnificent specimen of a kittar, with a wide- 
spreading head in the young glory of green leaf, tempted 
my hungry camel during our march; it was determined 
to procure a mouthful, and I was equally determined 
that it should keep to the straight path, and avoid the 
attraction of the green food. After some strong remon- 



CHAP, v.] WE CHARGE A KITTAR-BUSH. 71 

strance upon my part, the perverse beast shook its ugly 
head, gave a roar, and started off in full trot straight 
at the thorny bush. I had not the slightest control over 
the animal, and in a few seconds it charged the bush 
with the mad intention of rushing either through or 
beneath it. To my disgust I perceived that the wide- 
spreading branches were only just sufficiently high to 
permit the back of the camel to pass underneath. There 
was no time for further consideration ; we charged the 
bush ; I held my head doubled up between my arms, 
and the next moment I was on my back, half stunned 
by the fall. The camel-saddle lay upon the ground ; my 
rifle, that had been slung behind, my coffee-pot, the 
water-skin burst, and a host of other impedimenta, lay 
around me in all directions ; worst of all, my beautiful 
gold repeater lay at some distance from me, rendered 
entirely useless. I was as nearly naked as I could be; 
a few rags held together, but my shirt was gone, with 
the exception of some shreds that adhered to my arms. 
I was, of course, streaming with blood, and looked much 
more as though I had been clawed by a leopard than 
as having simply charged a bush. The camel had fallen 
down with the shock after I had been swept off by the 
thorny branches. To this day I have the marks of the 
scratching. 

XJnless a riding-camel is perfectly trained, it is the 
most tiresome animal to ride after the first green leaves 
appear; every bush tempts it from the path, and it is 
a per23etual fight between the rider and his beast through- 
out the journey. 

We shortly halted for the night, as I had noticed 
unmistakeable signs of an approaching storm. We 
quickly pitched the tents, grubbed up the root and stem 
of a decayed mimosa, and lighted a fire, by the side of 
which our people sat in a circle. Hardly had the pile 
begun to blaze, when a cry from Mahomet's new relative, 
Achmet, informed us that he had been bitten by a 
scorpion. Mahomet appeared to think this highly 
entertaining, until suddenly he screamed out likewise, 
and springing from the ground, he began to stamp and 



72 VIOLENT STORM. [chap. v. 

wring his hands in great agony : he had himself been 
bitten, and we found that a whole nest of scorpions 
were in the rotten wood lately thrown upon the fire ; 
in their flight from the heat they stung all whom they 
met. There was no time to prepare food; the thunder 
already roared above us, and in a few minutes the sky, 
lately so clear, was as black as ink. I had already 
prepared for the storm, and the baggage was piled within 
the tent; the ropes of the tents had been left slack to 
allow for the contraction, and we were ready for the 
rain. It was fortunate that we were in order; a rain 
descended, with an accompaniment of thunder and light- 
ning, of a volume unknown to the inha.bitants of cooler 
climates; for several hours there was ahnost an unin- 
terrupted roar of the most deafening peals, with light- 
ning so vivid that our tent was completely lighted up in 
the darkness of the night, and its misery displayed. Not 
only was the rain pouring tlirough the roof so that we 
were wet through as we crouched upon our angareps 
(stretchers), but the legs of our bedstead stood in more 
than six inches of water. Being as wet as I could be, 
I resolved to enjoy the scene outside the tent; it was 
curious in the extreme. Flash after flash of sharp 
forked lightning played upon the surface of a boundless 
lake ; there was not a foot of land visible, but the 
numerous dark bushes projecting from the surface of 
the water destroyed the illusion of depth that the scene 
would otherwise have suf?o-ested. The rain ceased, but 
the entire country was flooded several inches deep ; and 
when the more distant lightning flashed as the storm 
rolled away, I saw the camels lying like statues built 
into the lake. On the following morning the whole of 
this great mass of water had been absorbed by the soil, 
which had become so adhesive and slippery that it was 
impossible for the camels to move ; we therefore waited for 
some hours, until the intense heat of the sun had dried 
the surface sufficiently to allow the animals to proceed. 
Upon striking the tent, we found beneath the valance 
between the crown and the walls a regiment of scorpions ; 
the flood had doubtless destroyed great, numbers within 



CHAP, v.] VALLEY OF THE ATBARA. 73 

their holes, hut tliese, havmg heen disturhed hy the deluge, 
had found an asylum by crawling up the tent walls : with 
great difficulty we lighted a fire, and committed them all 
to the flames. ]\Iahomet made a great fuss about his hand, 
which was certainly much swollen, but not worse than that 
of Achmet, who did not complain, although during the 
night he had been again bitten on the leg by one of these 
venomous insects, that had crawled from the water upon 
his clothes. 

During our journey that morning parallel with the 
valley of the Atbara, I had an excellent opportunity of 
watching the effect of the storm. We rode along the 
abrupt margin of the table land, where it broke suddenly 
into the deep valley ; from the sides of this the water w^as 
oozing in all directions, creating little avalanches of earth, 
which fell as they lost their solidity from too much mois- 
ture. This wonderfully rich soil was rolling gradually 
towards Lower Eg}^t. From the heights above the river 
we had a beautiful view^ of the stream, which at this dis- 
tance, reflecting the bright sunlight, did not appear like 
the thick liquid mud that w^e knew it to be. The valley 
was of the same general character that w^e had remarked 
at Goorashee, but more abrupt — a mass of landslips, deep 
ravines, shaded by mimosas, w^hile the immediate neighbour- 
hood of the Atbara was clothed with the brightest green 
foliage. In this part, the valley was about three miles 
in width, and two hundred feet deep. 

The commencement of the rainy season was a warning 
to all the Arabs of this country, who were preparing for 
their annual migration to the sandy and firm desert on the 
west bank of the river, at Gozerajup ; that region, so 
barren and desolate during the hot season, would shortly 
be covered with a delicate grass about eighteen inches 
high. At that favoured spot the rains fell with less 
violence, and it formed a nucleus for the general gathering 
of the people with their flocks. 

We were travelling south at the very season when the 
natives were migrating north. I saw plainly that it would 
be impossible for us to continue our journey during the 
wet season, as the camels, had the greatest difficulty in 



74 A MILK DIET. [chap. T: 

carrying their loads even now, at the commencement : 
theh^ feet sank deep into the soil ; this formed adhesive 
clods upon their spongy toes, that almost disabled them. 
The farther we travelled sonth, the more violent would 
the rains become, and a long tropical experience warned 
me that the rainy season was the signal for fevers. All 
the camels of the Arabs were being driven from the 
country ; we had already met many herds travelling 
northward, but this day's march was through crowds of 
these animals, principally females with their young, many 
thousands of which were on the road. Some of the young 
foals were so small that they could not endure the march ; 
these were slung in nets upon the backs of camels, while 
the mother followed behind. "We revelled in milk, as we 
had not been able to procure it since we left Cassala. 
Some persons dislike the milk of the camel ; I thiak it 
is excellent to drink pure, but it does not answer in 
general use for mixing with coffee, with which it imme- 
diately curdles ; it is extremely rich, and is considered by 
the Arabs to be more nourishing than that of the cow. 
To persons of delicate health I should invariably recom- 
mend boiled milk in preference to plam ; and should the 
digestion be so extremely weak that liquid milk disagrees 
with the stomach, they should allow it to become thick, 
similar to curds and Avhey : this should be then beaten 
together, with the admixture of a little salt and cayenne 
pepper; it then assumes the thickness of cream, and is 
very palatable. The Arabs generally prepare it in this 
manner ; it is not only considered to be more wholesome, 
but in its thickened state it is easier to carry upon a 
journey. With an apology to European medical men, I 
would suggest that they should try the Arab system 
whenever they prescribe a milk diet for a delicate patient. 
The first operation of curdling, which is a severe trial to a 
weak stomach, is performed in hot climates by the atmo- 
sphere, as in temperate climates by the admixture of 
rennet, &c. ; thus the most difficult work of the stomach 
is effected by a foreign agency, and it is spared the first 
act of its performance. I have witnessed almost mar- 
vellous results from a milk diet given as now advised. 



cm\p. v.] TUE ARAB EXODUS. 75 

Milk, if drunk warm from the animal in hot climates, 
will affect many persons in the same manner as a powerful 
dose of senna and salts. Our party appeared to be proof 
against such an accident, as they drank enough to have 
stocked a moderate-sized dairy. Tliis was most good- 
naturedly supplied gratis by the Arabs. 

It was the season of rejoicing ; everybody appeared in 
good humour; the distended udders of thousands of 
camels were an assurance of plenty. The burning sun 
that for nine months had scorched the earth was veiled by 
passing clouds ; the cattle that had panted for water, and* 
whose food was withered strav/, were filled with juicy 
fodder ; the camels that had subsisted upon the dried and 
leafless twigs and branches, now feasted upon the succulent 
tops of the mimosas. Throngs of w^omen and children 
mounted upon camels, protected by the peculiar gaudy 
saddle hood, ornamented with cowrie-shells, accompanied 
the march ; thousands of sheep and goats, driven by Arab ^ 
boys, were straggling in all directions ; baggage-camels, 
heavily laden with the quaint household goods, blocked 
up the way ; the fine bronzed figures of Arabs, with sword 
and shield, and white topes, or plaids, guided their milk- 
white dromedaries through the confused throng with the 
usual placid dignity of their race, simply passing by with 
the usual greeting, " Salaam aleikum," "Peace be with you." 

It was the Exodus ; all were hurrying towards the 
promised land — " the land flowing with milk and honey," 
where men and beasts would be secure, not only from the 
fevers of the south, but from that deadly enemy to camels 
and cattle, the fly ; this terrible insect drove all before it. 

If all were right in migrating to the north, it was a 
logical conclusion that we were wrong in going to the 
south during the rainy season ; however, we now heard 
from the Arabs that we were within a couple of hours' 
march from the camp of the great Sheik Achmet Abou 
Sinn, to whom I had a letter of introduction. At the 
expiration of about that time we halted, and pitched the 
tents among some shady mimosas, while I sent Mahomet 
to Abou Sinn with the letter, and my firman. 

I was busily engaged in making sundry necessary 



76 THE DESERT ARAB. [chap. v. 

arrangements in the tent, when Maliomet returned, and 
announced the arrival of the great sheik in person. He 
was attended by several of his principal people, and as he 
approached through the bright green mimosas, mounted 
upon a beautiful snow-w^hite hygeen, I was exceedingly 
struck with his venerable and dignified appearance. Upon 
near arrival I went forward to meet him, and to assist him 
from his camel ; but his animal knelt immediately at his 
command, and he dismounted with the ease and agility of 
a man of twenty. 

He was the most magnificent specimen of an Arab that 
1 have ever seen. Although upwards of eighty years of 
age, he was as erect a,s a lance, and did not appear more 
than between fifty and sixty ; he was of Herculean stature, 
about six feet three inches high, wdth immensely broad 
shoulders and chest ; a remarkably arched nose ; eyes like 
an eagle, beneath large, shaggy, but perfectly white eye- 
brows ; a snow-white beard of great thickness descended 
below the middle of his breast. He wore a large white 
turban, and a white cashmere abbai, or long robe, from the 
throat to the ankles. As a desert patriarch he was superb, 
the very perfection of all that the imagination could paint, 
if we would personify Abraham at the head of his people. 
This grand old Arab with the greatest politeness insisted 
upon our immediately accompanying him to his camp, as 
he could not allow us to remain in his country as 
strangers. He would hear of no excuses, but he at once 
gave orders to Mahomet to have the baggage repacked and 
the tents removed, while we were requested to mount two 
superb white hygeens, with saddle-cloths of blue Persian 
sheep- skins, that he had immediately accoutred when he 
beard from Mahomet of our miserable camels. The tent 
was struck, and we joined our venerable host with a line 
of wild and splendidly-mounted attendants, who followed 
us towards the sheik's encampment. 



CHAPTER VI. 

SHEIK ACHMET ABOU SINN. 

Among the retinue of the aged sheik, whom we now 
accompanied, were ten of his sons, some of whom appeared 
to be quite as old as their father. We had ridden about 
two miles, when we were suddenly met by a crowd- of 
mounted men, armed with the usual swords and shields ; 
many were on horses, others upon hygeens, and all drew 
up in lines parallel with our approach. These were Abou 
Sinn's people, who had assembled to give us the honorary 
welcome as guests of their chief; this etiquette of the 
Arabs consists in galloping singly at full speed across the 
line of advance, the rider flourishing the sword over his 
head, and at the same moment reining up his horse upon its 
haunches so as to brin^ it to a sudden halt. This having 
been performed by about a hundred riders upon both horses 
and hygeens, they fell into line behind our party, and, thus 
escorted, we shortly arrived at the Arab encampment. In 
all countries the warmth of a public welcome appears to 
be exhibited by noise — the whole neighbourhood had con- 
gregated to meet us; crowds of women raised the wild 
shrill cry that is sounded alike for joy or sorrow ; drums 
were beat; men dashed about with drawn swords and 
engaged in mimic fight, and in the midst of din and 
confusion we halted and dismounted. With peculiar 
grace of manner the old sheik assisted my wife to dis- 
mount, and led her to an open shed arranged with 
angareps (stretchers) covered with Persian carpets and 
cushions, so as to form a divan. Sherbet, pipes, and 
cotfee were shortly handed to us, and Mahomet, as drago- 
man, translated the customary interchange of compli- 
ments ; the sheik assured us that our unexpected arrival 
among them was "like the blessing of a new moon," the 
depth of which expression no one can understand who 



78 ^BOU SINN'S ADVICE. [chap. vi. 

has not experienced life in the desert, where the first faint 
crescent is greeted with such enthusiasm. After a long 
conversation we were led to an excellent mat tent that had 
been vacated by one of his sons, and shortly afterwards 
an admirable dinner of several dishes was sent to us, 
while with extreme good taste we were left undisturbed 
by visitors until the following morning. Our men had 
been regaled with a fat sheep, presented by the sheik, 
and all slept contentedly. 

At sunrise we were visited by Abou Sinn. It appeared 
that, after our conversation of the preceding evening, he 
had inquired of Mahomet concerning my future plans 
and intentions ; he now came specially to implore us not 
to proceed south at this season of the year, as it would 
be perfectly impossible to travel ; he described the country 
as a mass of mud, rendered so deep by the rains that 
no animal could move ; that the fly called the " seroot " 
had appeared, and that no domestic animal except a goat 
could survive its attack ; he declared that to continue 
our route w^ould be mere insanity : and he concluded by 
giving us a most hospitable invitation to join his people 
on their road to the healthy country at Gozerajup, and 
to become his guests for three or four months, until 
travelling would be feasible in the south, at which time 
he promised to assist me in my explorations by an escort 
of his own people, who were celebrated elephant hunters, 
and knew the entire country before us. This was an 
alluring programme ; but after thanking him for his kind- 
ness, I explained how much I disliked to retrace my 
steps, which I should do by returning to Gozerajup ; and 
that as I had heard of a German who was living at the 
village of Sofi, on the Atbara, I should prefer to pass 
the season of the rains at that place, where I could 
gather information, and be ready on the spot to start 
for the neighbouring Base country when the change of 
season should permit. After some hesitation he con- 
sented to this plan, and promised not only to mount us 
on our journey, but to send with us an escort commanded 
by one of his grandsons. Sofi was about seventy-eight 
miles distant. 



CHAP. VI.] ARAB TRIBES OF NUBIA. 79 

Abou Sinn had arranoed to move northwards on the 
following day ; we therefore agreed to pass one day in 
his camp, and to leave for Sofi the next morning. The 
groimd upon which the Arab encampment was situated 
was a tolerably flat surface, like a shelf, upon the slope 
of the Atbara valle}^, about thirty or forty feet below the 
rich table lands ; the surface of this was perfectly firm, 
as by the constant rains it had been entirely denuded 
of the loam that had formed the upper stratum. This 
formed a charming place for the encampment of a large 
party, as the ground was perfectly clean, a mixture of 
quartz pebbles upon a hard white sandstone. Numerous 
mimosas afforded a shade, beneath which the Arabs sat 
in groups, and at the bottom of the valley flowed the 
Atbara. 

This tribe, which was peculiarly that of Abou Sinn, 
and from which he had sprung, was the Shookeriyah, 
one of the most powerful among the numerous tribes of 
Upper Egypt. 

From Korosko to this point we had already passed 
the Bedouins, Bishareens, Hadendowas, Hallongas, until 
we had entered the Shookeriyahs. On the west of our 
present position were the Jalyns, and to the south near 
Sofi were the Dabainas. Many of the tribes claim a 
right to the title of Bedouins, as descended from that 
race. The customs of all the Arabs are nearly similar, 
and the distinction in appearance is confined to a pecu- 
liarity in dressing the hair; this is a matter of great 
importance among both men and women. It would be 
tedious to describe the minutiae of the various coiffures, 
but the great desire with all tribes, except the Jalyn, 
is to have a vast quantity of hair arranged in their own 
peculiar fashion, and not only smeared, but covered with 
as much fat as can be made to adhere. Thus, should 
a man wish to get himself up as a great dandy, he would 
put at least half a pound of butter or other fat upon 
his head ; this would be worked up with his coarse locks 
by a friend, until it somewhat resembled a cauliflower. 
He would then arrange his tope or plaid of tliick cotton 
cloth, and throw one end over his left shoulder, while 



80 THE ARAB FOMADK [chap. vi. 

slung from the same shoulder his circular shield would 
hang upon his back ; suspended by a strap over the 
right shoulder would hang his long two-edged broad- 
sword. 

Tat is the great desideratum of an Arab ; his head, 
as I have described, should be a mass of grease ; he rubs 
his body with oil or other ointment ; his clothes, i.e. his , 
one garment or tope, is covered with grease, and internally 
he swallows as much as he can procure. 

The great Sheik Abou Sinn, who is upwards of eighty, 
as upright as a dart, a perfect Hercules, and whose 
children and grandchildren are like the sand of the 
sea-shore, has always consumed daily throughout his life 
two rottolis (pounds) of melted butter. A short time 
before I left the country he married a new young wife 
about fourteen years of age. This may be a hint to 
octogenarians. 

The fat most esteemed for dressing the hair is that 
of the sheep. This undergoes a curious preparation, 
which renders it similar in appearance to cold cream ; 
upon the raw fat being taken from the animal it is 
chewed in the mouth by an Arab for about two hours, 
being frequently taken out for examination during that 
time, until it has assumed the desired consistency. To 
prepare sufficient to enable a man to appear in full dress, 
several persons must be employed in masticating fat at 
the same time. This species of pomade, when properly 
made, is perfectly white, and exceedingly light and frothy. 
It may be imagined that when exposed to a burning 
sun, the beauty of the head-dress quickly disappears, 
but the oil then runs down the neck and back, which is 
considered quite correct, especially when the tope becomes 
thoroughly greased; the man is then perfectly anointed. 
We had seen an amusing example of this when on the 
march from Berber to Gozerajup. The Turk, Hadji 
Achmet, had pressed into our service, as a guide for a 
few miles, a dandy who had just been arranged as a 
cauliflower, with at least half a pound of wliite fat upon 
his head. As we were travelling upwards of four miles 
an hour in an intense heat, during which he was obliged 



CHAP. VI.] THE ARAB LADY'S PERFUMERY, 81 

to run, the fat ran quicker than he did, and at the end 
of a couple of hours both the dandy and his pomade 
were exhausted ; the poor fellow had to return to his 
friends with the total loss of personal appearance and 
half a pound of l3utter. 

Not only are the Arabs particular in their pomade, 
but great attention is bestowed upon perfumery, especially 
by the women. Various perfumes are brought from 
Cairo by the travelling native merchants; among which, 
those most in demand are oil of roses, oil of sandal- 
wood, an essence from the blossom of a species of mimosa, 
essence of musk, and the oil of cloves. The women 
have a peculiar method of scenting, their bodies and 
clothes by an operation that is considered to be one of 
the necessaries of life, and which is repeated at regular 
intervals. In the floor of the tent, or hut, as it may 
chance to be, a small hole is excavated sufliciently large 
to contain a common-sized champagne bottle : a fire of 
charcoal, or of snxiply glowing embers, is made within 
the hole, into which the woman about to be scented 
throws a handful of various drugs ; she then takes off" 
the cloth or tope which forms her dress, and crouches 
naked over the fumes, while she arranges her robe to 
tall as a mantle from her neck to the ground like a tent. 
When this arrangement is concluded she is perfectly 
happy, as none of the precious fumes can escape, all 
being retained beneath the robe, precisely as if she wore 
a crinoline with an incense-burner beneath it, which 
would be a far more simple way of performing the 
operation. She now begins to perspire freely in the 
hot-air bath, and the pores of the skin being thus 
opened and moist, the volatile oil from the smoke of the 
burning perfumes is immediately absorbed. 

By the time that the fire has expired, the scenting 
])rocess is completed, and both her person and robe are 
redolent of incense, with which they are so thoroughly 
impregnated that I have frequently smelt a party of 
women strongly at full a hundred yards' distance, when 
the wind has been blowing from their direction. Of 
course this kind of perfumery is oidy adapted for those 

G 



82 THE FATAL MIXTURE. [chap. vi. 

who live in tents and in the open air, but it is con- 
sidered by the ladies to have a peculiar attraction for 
the other sex, as valerian is said to ensnare the genus 
felis. As the men are said to be allured by this par- 
ticular combination of sweet smells, and to fall victims 
to the delicacy of their nasal organs, it will be necessary 
to give the receipt for the fatal mixture, to be made up 
in proportions according to taste : — Ginger, cloves, cin- 
namon, frankincense, sandal-wood, myrrh, a species of 
sea-weed that is brought from the Eed Sea, and lastly, 
what I mistook for shells, but which I subsequently dis- 
covered to be the horny disc that closes the aperture 
when a shell-fish withdraws itself within its shell; these 
are also brought from the Eed Sea, in which they 
abound throughout the shores of Nubia and Abyssinia. 
In addition to the charm of sweet perfumes, the women 
who can afford the luxury, suspend from their necks a 
few pieces of the dried glands of the musk cai,- which 
is a native of the country; such an addition completes 
the toilet, when the coiffure has been carefully arranged. 

Hair- dressing in all parts of the world, both civilized 
and savage, is a branch of science; savage negro tribes 
are distinguished by the various arrangements of their 
woolly heads. Arabs are marked by similar peculiarities, 
that have never changed for thousands of years, and 
may be yet seen depicted upon the walls of Egyptian 
temples in the precise forms as worn at present, while 
in modern times the perfection of art has been in the 
wig of a Lord Chancellor. Although this latter example 
of the result of science is not the actual hair of the 
wearer, it adds an imposing glow of wisdom to the 
general appearance, and may have originated as a neces- 
sity where a deficiency of sagacity had existed, and where 
the absence of years required the fictitious crown of grey 
old age. A barrister in his wig, and the same amount 
of learning without the wig, is a very different affair; 
he is an imperfect shadow of himself Nevertheless, 
among civilized nations, the men do not generally bestow 
much anxiety upon the fashion of their hair ; the labour 
in this branch of art is generally performed by the 



CHAP. VI.] THE ARAB W02IAN'S HEAD-DRJESii, 83 

women, who in all countries and climes, and in every 
stage of civilization, bestow the greatest pains upon the 
perfection of the coiffure, the various arrangements of 
which might, I should imagine, be estimated by the 
million. In some countries they are not even contented 
with the natural colour of the hair, either if black or 
blonde, but they use a pigment that turns it red. I 
only noticed this among the Somauli tribe ; and that 
of the jSTuehr, some of the wildest savages of the White 
Nile, until I returned to England, where I found the 
custom was becoming general among the civilized, and 
that ladies were adopting the lovely tint of the British 
fox. The Arab women do not indulge in fashions ; 
strictly conservative in their manners and customs, they 
never imitate, but they simply vie with each other in 
the superlativeness of their own style; thus the dressing 
of the hair is a most elaborate affair, which occupies a 
consiileiBable portion of their time. It is quite impossible 
for an Arab 'Wtman to arrange her OAvn hair ; she there- 
fore employs an assistant, who, if clever in the art, will 
generally occupy about three days before it is satisfactorily 
concluded. First, the hair must be combed with a long 
skewer-like pin; then, when well divided, it becomes 
possible to use an exceedingly coarse wooden comb. 
When the hair is reduced to reasonable order by the 
latter process, a vigorous hunt takes place, which occupies 
about an hour, according to the amount of game pre- 
served ; the sport concluded, the hair is rubbed with 
a mixture of oil of roses, myrrh, and sandal-wood dust 
mixed with a powder of cloves and cassia. When well 
greased and rendered somewhat stiff by the solids thus 
introduced, it is plaited into at least two hundred 
fine plaits ; each of these plaits is then smeared with 
a mixture of sandal-wood dust and either gum water 
or paste of dhurra flour. On the last day of the opera- 
tion, each tiny plait is carefully opened by the long 
hair-pin or skewer, and the head is ravissante. Scented 
and frizzled in this manner with a well-gTcased tope or 
robe, the Arab lady's toilet is complete, her head is then 
a little larger than the largest sized English mop, and 

G 2 



84 " THE DUST BECAME LICE." [cuap. vi. 

her perfume is something between the aroma of a per- 
fumer's shop and the monkey-house at the Zoological 
Gardens. This is considered " very killing," and I have 
been quite of that opinion when a crowd of women have 
visited my wife in our tent, with the thermometer at 
95°, and they have kindly consented to allow me to 
remain as one of the party. It is hardly necessary to 
add, that the operation of hair-dressing is not often per- 
formed, but that the effect is permanent for about a 
week, during which time the game become so excessively 
lively, that the creatures require stirring up with the long 
hair-pin or skewer whenever too unruly ; this appears 
to be constantly necessary from the vigorous employment 
of the ruling sceptre during conversation. A levee of 
Arab women in the tent was therefore a disagreeable 
invasion, as w^e dreaded the fugitives ; fortunately, they 
appeared to cling to the followers of Mahomet in pre- 
ference to Christians. 

The plague of lice brought upon the Egyptians by 
Moses has certainly adhered to the country ever since, 
if ''lice" is the proper translation of the Hebrew word 
in the Old Testament : it is my own opinion that the 
insects thus inflicted upon the population w^ere not lice, 
but ticks. Exod. viii. 16, "The dust became lice through- 
out all Egypt;" again, Exod. viii. 17, "Smote dust . . . 
it became lice in man and beast." I^ow the louse that 
infects the human body and hair has no connexion what- 
ever with " dust," and if subject to a few hours' exposure 
to the dry heat of the burning sand, it would shrivel 
and die ; but the tick is an inhabitant of the dust, a 
dry horny insect without any apparent moisture in its 
composition ; it lives in hot sand and dust, where it 
cannot possibly obtain nourishment, until some wretched 
animal should lie down upon the spot, and become covered 
with these horrible vermin. T have frequently seen dry 
desert places so infested with ticks, that the ground was 
perfectly alive with them, and it would have been im- 
possible to have rested on the earth; in such spots, the 
passage in Exodus has frequently occurred to me as 
bearing reference to these vermin, which are the greatest 



CHAP. vi.J THE RAH AT, OR ARAB KILT. 85 

enemies to man and beast. It is well known that, 
from the size of a grain of sand in their natural state, 
they will distend to the size of a hazel-nut after having 
preyed for some days upon the blood of an animal. 
The Arabs are invariably infested with lice, not only 
in their hair, but upon their bodies and clothes ; even 
the small charms or spells worn upon the arm in neatly- 
sewn leathern packets are full of these vermin. Sucli 
spells are generally verses copied from the Koran by 
the Faky, or priest, who receives some small gratuity in 
exchange ; the men wear several of such talismans upon 
the arm above the elbow, but the women wear a large 
bunch of charms, as a sort of chatelaine, suspended 
beneath their clothes round the waist. Although the 
tope or robe, loosely but gracefully arranged around the 
body, appears to be the whole of the costume, the women 
wear beneath this garment a thin blue cotton cloth 
tightly bound round the loins, which descends to a little 
above the knee ; beneath this, next to the skin, is the 
last garment, the rahat — the latter is the only clothing 
of young girls, and may be either perfectly simple or 
adorned with beads and cowrie shells according to the 
fancy of the wearer ; it is perfectly effective as a dress, 
and admirably adapted to the climate. 

The rahat is a fringe of fine dark brown or reddish 
twine, fastened to a belt, and worn round the waist. On 
either side are two long tassels, that are generally orna- 
mented with beads or cowries, and dangle nearly to the 
ankles, while the rahat itself should descend to a little 
above the knee, or rather shorter than a Highland kilt. 
Nothing can be prettier or more simple than this dress, 
which, although short, is of such thickly hanging fringe, 
that it perfectly answers the purpose for which it is 
intended. Many of the Arab girls are remarkably good- 
looking, with fine figures until they become mothers. 
They generally marry at the age of thirteen or fourteen, 
but frequently at twelve, or even earlier. Until married, 
the rahat is their sole garment. Throughout the Arab 
tribes of Upper Egypt, chastity is a necessity, as an 
op'^ation is performed at the early age of irom three to 



86 NO DIVORCE COURT. [chap. vi. 

five years that thoroughly protects all females, and which 
renders them physically proof against incontinency. 

There is but little love-making among the Arabs. The 
affair of matrimony usually commences by a present to 
the father of the girl, which, if accepted, is followed by 
a similar advance to the girl herself, and the arrange- 
ment is completed. All the friends of both parties are 
called together for the wedding; pistols and guns are 
fired off, if possessed. There is much feasting, and the 
unfortunate bridegroom undergoes the ordeal of whipping 
by the relations of his bride, in order to test his courage. 
Sometimes this punishment is exceedingly severe, being 
inflicted with the coorbatch or whip of hippopotamus 
hide, which is cracked vigorously about his ribs and 
back. If the happy husband wishes to be considered a 
man worth having, he must receive the chastisement 
with an expression of enjoyment ; in which case the 
crowds of women again raise their thrilling cry in admi- 
ration. After the rejoicings of the day are over, the bride 
is led in the evening to the residence of her husband, 
while a beating of drums and strumming of guitars 
(rhababas) are kept up for some hours during the night, 
with the usual discordant idea of singing. 

There is no divorce court among the Arabs. They are 
not sufficiently advanced in civilization to accept a pecu- 
niary fine as the price of a wife's dishonour ; but a stroke 
of the husband's sword, or a stab witli the knife, is 
generally the ready remedy for infidelity. Although 
strictly Mahometans, the women are never veiled ; neither 
do they adopt the excessive reserve assumed by the Turks 
and Egyptians. The Arab women are generally idle ; and 
one of the conditions of accepting a suitor is, that a 
female slave is to be provided for the special use of the 
wife. No Ai'ab woman will engage herself as a domestic 
servant ; thus, so long as their present customs shall 
remain unchanged, slaves are creatures of necessity. Al- 
though the law of Mahomet limits the number of wives for 
each man to four at one time, the Arab women do not appear 
to restrict their husbands to this allowance, and the slaves 
of the establishment occupy the position of concubines. 



CHAP. VI.] AXOIXTING WITH OIL. 87 

The customs of the Arabs in almost every detail have 
remained unchanged. Thus, in dress, in their nomadic 
habits, food, the anointing with oil (Eccles. ix. 8, " Let 
thy garments be always white, and let thy head lack no 
ointment "), they retain the habits and formalities of the 
distant past, and the present is but the exact picture of 
those periods which are historically recorded in the Old 
Testament. The perfumery of the women already de- 
scribed, bears a resemblance to that prepared by Moses 
for the altar, which was forbidden to be used by the 
people. "Take thou also unto thee principal spices, of 
pure myrrh five hundred shekels, and of sweet cinnamon 
half so much, even two hundred and fifty shekels, and of 
sweet calamus two hundred and fifty shekels, and of cassia 
five hundred shekels, after the shekel of the sanctuary, 
and of oil olive an hin: and thou shalt make it an oil 
of holy ointment, an ointment compound after the art of 
the apothecary : it shall be an holy anointing oil." — Exod. 
XXX. 23-25. 

The manner of anointing by the ancients is exhibited 
by the Arabs at the present day, who, as I have already 
described, make use of so large a quantity of grease at 
one application that, when melted, it runs down over 
their persons and clothes. In Ps. cxxxiii. 2, " It is like 
the precious ointment upon the head, that ran down 
upon the beard, even Aaron's beard, that went down to 
the skirts of his garments." 

In all hot climates, oil or other fat is necessary to the 
skin as a protection from the sun, where the body is 
either naked or very tliinly clad. I have frequently seen 
both Arabs and the negro tribes of Africa suffer great 
discomfort when for some days the supply of grease has 
been exhausted ; the skin has become coarse, rough, 
almost scaly, and peculiarly unsightly, until the much- 
loved fat has been obtained, and the general appearance 
of smoothness has been at once restored by an active 
smearing. The expression in Ps. civ. 15, "And oil to 
make his face to shine," describes the effect that was 
then considered beautifying, as it is at the present time. 

The Arabs generally adhere strictly to their ancient 



88 UNCHANGING CUSTOMS OF THE ARABS [chap. vi. 

customs, independently of the comparatively recent laws 
established by Mahomet. Thus, concubinage is not con- 
sidered a breach of morality ; neither is it regarded by 
the legitimate wives with jealousy. They attach great 
importance to the laws of Moses, and to the customs of 
their forefathers ; neither can they understand the reason 
for a change of habit in any respect where necessity 
has not suggested the reform. The Arabs are creatures 
of necessity ; their nomadic life is compulsory, as the 
existence of their flocks and herds depends upon the 
pasturage. Thus, with the change of seasons they must 
change their localities, according to the presence of fodder 
for their cattle. Driven to and fro by the accidents of 
climate, the Arab has been compelled to become a wan- 
derer ; and precisely as the wild beasts of the country are 
driven from place to place either by the arrival of the 
fly, the lack of pasturage, or by the w^ant of water, even 
so must the flocks of the Arab obey the law^ of necessity, 
in a country where the burning sun and total absence 
of rain for nine months of the year convert the green 
pastures into a sandy desert. The Arabs and their herds 
must follow the example of the wild beasts, and live as 
wild and wandering a life. In the absence of a fixed 
home, without a city, or even a village that is permanent, 
there can be no change of custom. There is no stimulus 
to competition in the style of architecture that is to en- 
dure only for a few months ; no municipal laws suggest 
deficiencies that originate improvements. The Arab cannot 
halt in one spot longer than the pasturage will support 
his flocks ; therefore his necessity is food for his beasts. 
The object of his life being fodder, he must wander in 
search of the ever-changing supply. His wants mu^t be 
few, as the constant changes of encampment necessitate 
the transport of all his household goods ; thus he reduces 
to a minimum the domestic furniture and utensils. No 
desires for strange and fresh objects excite his mind to 
improvement, or alter his original habits ; he must limit 
his impedimenta, not increase them. Thus with a few 
necessary articles he is contented. Mats for his tent, 
ropes manufactured with the hair of his goats and camels, 



CHAP. V].] THE HAND OF GOD. 89 

pots for carrying fat ; water-jars and earthenware pots or 
gourd-shells for containing milk ; leather water-skins for 
the desert, and sheep-skin bags for his clothes, — these are 
the requirements of the Arabs. Their patterns have 
never changed, but the water-jar of to-day is of the same 
form that was carried to the well by the women of thou- 
sands of years ago. The conversation of the Arabs is in 
the exact style of the Old Testament. The name of Gotl 
is coupled with every trifling incident in life, and they 
believe in the continual action of Divine special inter- 
ference. Should a famine afflict the country, it is expressed 
in the stern lans;iiao^e of the Bible — " The Lord has sent 
a grievous famine upon the land ; " or, " The Lord called 
for a famine, and it came upon the land." Should their 
cattle fall sick, it is considered to be an affliction by 
Divine command ; or should the flocks prosper and mul- 
tiply particularly during one season, the prosperity is 
attributed to special interference. jSTothing can happen 
in the usual routine of daily life without a direct con- 
nexion with the hand of God, according to the Arab's 
belief. 

This striking similarity to the descriptions of the Old 
Testament is exceedingly interesting to a traveller when 
residing among these curious and original people. With 
the Bible in one hand, and these imchanged tribes before 
the eyes, there is a thrilling illustration of the sacred 
record ; the past becomes the present ; the veil of three 
thousand years is raised, and the li\T.ng picture is a wit- 
ness to the exactness of the historical description. At the 
same time, there is a light thrown upon many obscure 
passages in the Old Testament by the experience of the 
])resent customs and figures of speech of the Arabs ; 
which are precisely those that were practised at the 
periods described. I do not attempt to enter upon a 
theological treatise, therefore it is unnecessary to allude 
specially to these particular points. The sudden and 
desolating arrival of a flight of locusts, the plague, or any 
other unforeseen calamity, is attributed to the anger of 
God, and is believed to be an infliction of punishment 
upon the people thus visited, precisely as the plagues of 



9 UNCHANGEABL-E FEATURES OF THE ARABS, [chap. vi. 

Egypt were specially inflicted upon Pharaoh and the 
Egyptians. 

Should the present history of the country be written 
by an Arab scribe, the style of the description would 
be purely that of the Old Testament; and the various 
calamities or the good fortunes that have in the course of 
nature befallen both the tribes and indi'sdduals, would be 
recounted either as special visitations of Divine wrath, 
or blessings for good deeds performed. If in a dream a 
particular course of action is suggested, the Arab believes 
that God has spoken and directed him. The Arab scribe 
or historian would describe the event as the " voice of the 
Lord " (" kallam el Allah "), having spoken unto the 
person ; or, that God appeared to him in a dream and 
"said'' &c. Thus much allowance would be necessary 
on the part of a European reader for the figurative ideas 
and expressions of the people. As the Arabs are un- 
changed, the theological opinions which they now hold 
are the same as those which prevailed in remote ages, 
with the simple addition of their belief in Mahomet as 
the Prophet. 

There is a fascination in the unchangeable features of 
the ISTile regions. There are the vast Pyramids that have 
defied time ; the river upon which Moses was cradled in 
infancy ; the same sandy deserts through which he led 
his people ; and the watering-places where their flocks 
were led to drink. The wild and wandering tribes of 
Arabs who thousands of years ago dug out the wells in 
the wilderness, are represented by their descendants un- 
changed, who now draw water from the deep wells of 
their forefathers with the skins that have never altered 
their fashion. The Arabs, gathering with their goats and 
sheep around the wells to-day, recall the recollection of that 
distant time when " Jacob went on his journey, and came 
into the land of the people of the east. And he looked, and 
behold a v\^ell in the field ; and, lo, there were three flocks 
of sheep lying by it, for out of that well they v/atered the 
flocks ; and a great stone was upon the well's mouth. 
And thither were all the flocks gathered ; and they rolled 
the stone from the well's mouth, and watered the sheep, 



CHAP. VII.] FIRST-CLASS HYGEENS. 91 

and put the stone again upon the well's mouth in his 
place." The picture of that scene would be an illustra- 
tion of Arab daily life in the Nubian deserts, where the 
present is the mirror of the past. 



CHAPTEE VIL 

THE DEPAETUEE. 

On the morning of the 25th July, 1861, Abou Sinn 
arrived at our tent with a number of his followers, in 
their whitest apparel, accompanied by one of his grand- 
sons, Sheik Ali, who was to command our escort and to 
accompany ns to the frontier of the Dabaina tribe, at 
which spot we were to be handed over to the care of the 
sheik of those Arabs, Atalan Wat Said, who would con- 
duct us to Sofi. There were two superb hygeens duly 
equipped for my wife and myself : they were snow-white, 
without speck or blemish, and as clean and silk-like as 
good grooming could accomplish. One of these beautiful 
creatures I subsequently measured, — seven feet three and 
a half inches to the top of the hump ; this was much 
above the average. The baggage-camels were left to the 
charge of the servants, and we were requested to mount 
immediately, as the Sheik Abou Sinn was determined to 
accompany us for some distance as a mark of courtesy, 
although he was himself to march with his people on 
that day in the opposite direction towards Gozerajup. 
Escorted by our grand old host, with a great number of 
mounted attendants, we left the hospitable camp, and fol- 
lowed the margin of the Atbara valley towards the south, 
until, at the distance of about two miles, Abou Sinn took 
leave, and returned with his people. 

We now enjoyed the contrast between the light active 
step of first-class hygeens, and the heavy swinging action 
of the camels we had hitherto ridden. Travellin<T was for 



92 TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS. [chap. vii. 

the first time a pleasure ; there was a delightful move- 
ment in the elasticity of the hygeens, who ambled at 
about five miles and a half an hour, as their natural pace ; 
this they can continue for nine or ten hours without 
fatigue. Having no care for the luggage, and the coffee- 
pot being slung upon the saddle of an attendant, who also 
carried our carpet, we were perfectly independent, as we 
Avere prepared with the usual luxuries upon halting, — the 
carpet to recline upon beneath a shady tree, and a cup of 
good Turkish coffee. Thus we could afford to travel at a 
rapid rate, and await the arrival of the baggage-camels at 
the end of the day's journey. In this manner the march 
should be arranged in these wild countries, where there is 
no resting-place upon the path beyond the first inviting 
shade that suggests a halt. The day's journey should be 
about twenty-four miles. A loaded camel seldom exceeds 
two miles and a half per hour; at this rate nearly ten 
hours would be consumed upon the road daily, during 
which time the traveller would be exposed to the intense 
heat of the sun, and to the fatigue inseparable from a long 
and slow march. A servant mounted upon a good hygeen 
should accompany him with the coffee apparatus and a 
cold roast fowl and biscuits ; the ever necessary carpet 
should form the cover to his saddle, to be ready when 
required ; he then rides far in advance of the caravan. 
This simple arrangement insures comfort, and lessens the 
ennui of the journey ; the baggage-camels are left in 
charge of responsible servants, to be brought forward at 
their usual pace, until they shall arrive at the place 
selected for the halt by the traveller. The usual hour of 
starting is about 5.30 A.M. The entire day's journey can 
be accomplished in something under five hours upon 
hygeens, instead of the ten hours' dreary pace of the 
caravan; thus, the final halt would be made at about 
10.30 A.M. at which time the traveller would be ready for 
breakfast. The carpet would be spread under a shady 
tree ; upon a branch of this his water-skin should be 
suspended, and the day's work over, he can write up his 
journal and enjoy his pipe while coffee is being prepared. 
After breakfast he can take his gun or rifie and explore 



CHAP. VII.] THE EVENING BIVOUAC. 93 

the neighbourhood, until the baggage-camels shall arrive 
in the evening, by which time, if he is a sportsman, he 
will have procured something for the dinner of the entire 
party. The servants will have collected firewood, and all 
will be ready for the arrival of the caravan, without the 
confusion and bustle of a general scramble, inseparable 
from the work to be suddenly performed, when camels 
must be unloaded, fuel collected, fires lighted, the meals 
])repared, beds made, &c. &c. all at the same moment, with 
the chance of little to eat. N"othing keeps the camel- 
drivers and attendants in such good humour as a successful 
rifle. While they are on their long and slow march, they 
speculate upon the good luck that may attend the master's 
gun, and upon arrival at the general bivouac in the evening 
they are always on the alert to skin and divide the ante- 
lopes, pluck the guinea-fowls, &c. &c. We now travelled 
in this delightful manner ; there were great numbers of 
guinea-fowl throughout the country, which was the same 
everlasting flat and rich table land, extending for several 
hundred miles to the south, and dotted with green 
mimosas ; while upon our left was the broken valley of 
the Atbara. 

The only drawback to the journey was the rain. At 
about 2 P.M. daily we were subjected to a violent storm, 
which generally lasted until the evening ; and although our 
guides invariably hurried forward on the march to the 
neighbourhood of some deserted huts, whose occupants 
had migrated north, our baggage and servants upon the 
road were exposed to the storm, and arrived late in the 
evening, wet and miserable. There could be no doubt 
that the season for travelling was past. Every day's 
journey south had proved by the increased vegetation 
that we were invading the rainy zone, and that, although 
the northern deserts possessed their horrors of sandy 
desolation, they at the same time afforded that great 
advantage to the traveller, a dry climate. 

In a few rapid marches we arrived at Tomat, the com- 
mencement of the Dabainas and the principal head- 
quarters of the sheik of that tribe, Atalan Wat Said. 
This was a lovely spot, where the country appeared like 



94 JUNCTION OF THE SETTITE RIVER, [chap. vii. 

green velvet, as the delicate young grass was about two 
inches above the ground. The Arab camp was situated 
upon a series of knolls about a hundred and fifty feet 
above the Atbara, upon the hard ground denuded by the 
rains, as this formed a portion of the valley. At this spot, 
the valley on the west bank of the river was about two 
miles broad, and exhibited the usual features of innumer- 
able knolls, ravines, and landslips, in succession, like 
broken terraces from the high level table land, sloping 
down irregularly to the water's edge. -On the opposite 
side of the river was the most important feature of the 
country ; the land on the east bank was considerably 
higher than upon the west, and a long tongue formed a 
bluff cliff' that divided the Atbara valley from the sister 
valley of the Settite, which, corresponding exactly in 
character and apparent dimensions, joined that of the 
Atbara from the S.E., forming an angle like the letter Y, 
in a sudden bend of the river. Through the valley of the 
eastern bank flowed the gTand river Settite, which here 
formed a junction with the Atbara. 

Looking down upon the beautifully wooded banks of 
the two riA^ers at this interesting point, we rode leisurely 
across a ravine, and ascended a steep incline of bright 
green grass, upon the summit of which was a fine level 
space of several acres that formed the Arab head- quarters. 
This surface was nearly covered with the usual mat tents, 
and in a few moments our camels knelt before that of the 
sheik, at which we dismounted. A crowd of inquisitive 
Arabs surrounded us upon seeing so large a party of 
hygeens, and the firman having been delivered by our 
guide, Sheik Ali, we were almost immediately visited by 
Sheik Atalan Wat Said. He was a man in the prime of 
life, of an intelligent countenance, and he received us with 
much politeness, immediately orderiDg a fat sheep to be 
brought and slaughtered for our acceptance. 

The usual welcome upon the arrival of a traveller, 
who is well received in an Arab camp, is the sacrifice of 
a fat sheep, that should be slaughtered at the door of 
his hut or tent, so that the blood flows to the threshold. 
This custom has evidently some connexion with the 



CHAP. VII.] ABYSSINIAN FRONTIER. 95 

ancient rites of sacrifice. Should an important expedi- 
tion be undertaken, a calf is slaughtered at the entrance 
of the camp, and every individual steps over the body 
as the party starts upon the enterprise. 

Upon learning my plans, he begged us to remain 
through the rainy season at Tomiit, as it was the head- 
quarters of a party of Egyptian irregular troops, who 
would assist me in every way. This was no great tempta- 
tion, as they were the people whom I most wished to 
avoid ; I therefore explained that I was bound to Sofi by 
the advice of Abou Sinn, from whence 1 could easily 
return if I thought proper, but I wished to proceed on the 
following moining. He promised to act as our guide, 
and that hygeens should be waiting at the tent-door at 
sunrise. After our interview, I strolled down to the 
river's side and shot some guinea-fowl. 

The Settite is the river par excellence, as it is the 
principal stream of Abyssinia, in which country it bears 
the name of " Tacazzy." Above the junction, the Atbara 
does not exceed two hundred yards in width. Both rivers 
have scooped out deep and broad valleys throughout their 
course ; this fact confirmed my first impression of the 
supply of soil having been brought down by the Atbara 
to the Mle. The country on the opposite or eastern bank 
of the Atbara is contested ground ; in reality it forms the 
western frontier of Abyssinia, of which the Atbara river 
is the boundary, but since the annexation of the Nubian 
provinces to Egypt there has beeli no safety for life or 
property upon the line of frontier ; thus a large tract of 
country actually forming a portion of Abyssinia is un- 
inhabited. 

Upon my return to the camp, T was informed by the 
Sheik Wat Said that a detachment of troops was stationed 
at Tomat expressly to protect the Egyptian frontier from 
the raids of Mek Mmmur, who was in the habit of 
crossing the Atbara and piUaging the Arab villages 
during the dry season, when the river was fordable. 
This Mek Nimmur was a son of the celebrated Mek 
Nimmur, the chief of Shendy, a district upon the west 
bank of the Nile between Berber and Khartoum. Wlien 



96 ISMAEL PASHA BURNT ALIVE. [chap. vu. 

the Egyptian forces, under the command of Ismael Pasha, 
the son of the Viceroy Mehemet Ali Pasha, arrived at 
Shendy, at the time of the conquest of Nubia, he called 
the great Sheik Mek (from Melek, signifying king) 
Mmmur before him, and demanded the following supplies 
for his army, as tribute for the Pasha : — 1,000 young girls 
as slaves ; 1,000 oxen ; and of camels, goats, sheep, each 
1,000; also camel-loads of corn and straw each 1,000, 
with a variety of other demands expressed by the same 
figure. It is said that Mek Nimmur replied to these 
demands with much courtesy, ''Your arithmetic exhibits 
a charming simplicity, as the only figure appears to be 
1,000." In a short time the supplies began to arrive ; 
strings of camels, laden with corn, assembled at Shendy 
in the Egyptian camp ; cattle, goats, sheep, came in from 
all sides ; fodder for the Egyptian cavalry, to the amount 
of 1,000 camel-loads, was brought to head-quarters, and 
piled in a huge wall that encircled the tent of the General 
Ismael Pasha. In the dead of night, Avhile he slept, 
the crackling of fire was heard, and flames burst out 
upon all sides of the dry and combustible fodder; the 
Arabs had fired the straw in all directions, and a roar of 
flame in a fatal ring surrounded the Pasha's tent, which 
caught the fire. There was no escape ! In the confusion, 
the Arabs fell upon the troops, and massacred a consider- 
able number. After this success, Mek Nimmur succeeded 
in retiring wdth his people and herds to Sofi, on the 
Atbara, to which place we were bound ; this was about 
twelve miles from Tom at. The body of Ismael Pasha was 
found beneath those of some of his women, all of whom 
that were within the inclosure having perished. 

After this calamity the Egyptians recovered Shendy, 
and in revenge they collected a number of the inhabitants 
of all ages and both sexes. These were penned together 
like cattle in a zareeba or kraal, and were surrounded with 
dhurra-straw, which was fired in a similar manner to that 
which destroyed the Pasha. Thus were these unfortunate 
creatures destroyed en masse, while the remaining portion 
of the population fled to the new settlement of their chief 
at Sofi. 



CHAP. VII.] 2>JEK NIMMUR. 97 

Within the last few years preceding my arrival, the 
Egyptians had attacked and utterly destroyed the old 
town of Sofi. Mek Nimmur had retired across the Atbara, 
and had taken refuge in Abyssinia, where he had been 
welcomed by tlie king of that country as the enemy of the 
Turks, and had been presented with a considerable territory 
at the western base of the high mountain range. When 
I arrived on the Atbara in 1861, the original iMek Nimmur 
was dead, and his son, who also was called Mek Nimmur, 
reigned in his stead. " Nimmur" signifies in Arabic 
" leopard : " thus " Mek Nimmur" is the "Leopard King." 

This man was constantly at war with the Egyptians, and 
such Arabs who were friendly to Egypt. His principal 
head-quarters were about seventy miles from Toniat, at a 
village named Mai Gubba, from which country he made suc- 
cessful razzias upon the Egyptian territor}^, which compelled 
a vigilant look-out during the dry season. During the 
rains there was no danger, as the river was immensely 
deep, and impassable from the total absence of boats. 

The uninhabited country exactly opposite Tomat was 
said to abound with large game, such as elephants, giraffes, 
&;c. as there were no enemies to disturb them. 

At break of day, 29th July, the grandson of Abou Sinn, 
Sheik Ali, who had been our guide, paid us his parting 
visit, and returned with his people, while at the same 
time Atalan Wat Said arrived with a large retinue of his 
own Arabs and Egyptian soldiers to escort us to Sofi. 
Two splendid hygeens were already saddled for us, one 
of which was specially intended for my wife ; this was the 
most thorough-bred looking animal I have ever seen ; 
both v/ere milk-white, but there was a delicacy in the 
latter that was unequalled. This was rather snjali, and 
although the ribs w^ie so well covered that the animal 
appeared rather fleshy, it w^as in the hardiest condition, 
and was shaped in the depth of brisket and width of 
loins like a greyhound ; the legs were renjarkably fine, and 
as clean as ivory. The Sheik Atalan was charmed at our 
admiration of liis much-prized hygeen, and to prove its 
speed and easy action we were no sooner mounted than he 
led the wa}' at about ten miles an hour, down the steep 

H 



98 RECEFTION AT SOFT. [cuaf. vii. 

slopes, across the rougli watercourses, and up the hill-sides, 
assuring my wife that she might sip a cup of coffee on the 
back of the animal she rode, without spilling a drop : 
although an exaggeration, this is the usual figure of speech 
by which an Arab describes the easy action of a first-rate 
hygeen. It was a beautiful sight to watch the extra- 
ordinary ease with which the hygeen glided along over the 
numerous inequalities of the ground without the slightest 
discomfort to the rider ; the numerous escort became a 
lonc:^ and irrefj:ular line of strag^siers, until at lentjth the^■ 
were lost in the distance, with the exception of three or 
four, who, well mounted, were proud of keeping their 
position. Emerging from the uneven valley of the Atbara, 
we arrived upon the high and level table land above ; here 
the speed increased, and in the exhilaration of the pace 
in the cool morning air, with all nature glowing in the 
fresh green of a Nubian spring, we only regretted the 
shortness of the journey to Sofi, which we reached before 
the heat of the day had commenced. We were met by 
the sheik of the village, and by a German who had been 
a resident of Sofi for some years ; he was delighted to see 
Europeans, especially those who were conversant with his 
own language, and he very politely insisted that we should 
dismount at his house. Accordingly our camels knelt at 
the door of a little circular stone building about twelve 
i'eet in diameter, with a roof thatched according to Arab 
fashion. This dwelling was the model of an Arab hut, 
but the walls were of masonry instead of mud and sticks, 
and two small windows formed an innovation upon ttif 
Arab style, which had much astonished the natives, whc- 
are contented with the light afforded by the doorway. 

We were shortly sitting in the only stone building iu 
the country, among a crowed of Arabs, who, according lc> 
their annoying custom, had thronged to the hut upon our 
arrival, and not only had filled the room, but were sitting 
in a mob at the doorw^ay, while masses of mop-like heads 
were peering over the shoulders of the front rank, 
excluding both light and air; even the windows were 
blocked with highly frizzled heads, while aU were to Iking 
at the same time. 



CHAP. VII. J POSITION OF SOFI yy 

Coffee having been handed to the principal people 
while our tents were being pitched outside the village, 
we at length silenced the crowd ; our new acquaintance 
explained in Arabic the object of our arrival, and our 
intention of passing the rainy season at Sofi, and of 
exploring the various rivers of Abyssinia at the earliest 
opportunity. Atalan Wat Said promised every assistance 
when the time should arrive : he described the country as 
abounding with large game of all kinds, and he agreed to 
furnish me with guides and hunters at the commencement 
of the hunting season ; in the meantime he ordered the 
sheik of the village, Hassan bel Kader, to pay us every 
attention. 

After the departure of Atalan and his people, amid the 
usual yelling of the women, we had time to examine Soli, 
and accompanied by the German, Florian, we strolled 
through the village. At this position the slope of the 
valley towards the river was exceedingly gradual upon the 
west bank, until within a hundred and fifty yards of the 
Atbara, when the ground rapidly fell, and terminated in an 
abrupt cliff of white sandstone. 

The miserable little village of modern Sofi comprised 
about thirty straw huts, but the situation was worthy of a 
more important settlement. A plateau of hard sandy soil 
of about twenty acres was bordered upon either side by 
two deep ravines that formed a natural protection, while 
below the steep cliff, within two hundred paces in front 
of the village, Sowed the river Atbara ; for mounted men 
there was only one approach, that which we had taken 
from the main land. There could not have been a more 
inviting spot adopted for a resting-place during the rains. 
Although the soil was thoroughly denuded of loam, and 
nothing remained but the original substratum of sandstone 
and pebbles, the grass was at this season about three 
inches liigh throughout the entire valley of the Atbara, 
the trees were in full leaf, and the vivid green, contrasting 
with the snow-white sandstone rocks, produced the etfect 
of an ornamental park. My tents were pitched upon a 
level piece of ground, outside the village, about a hundred 
paces from the river, where the grass had been so closely 

H 2 



100 THE GERMAN SETTLER. [chap, vii 

nibbled by the goats that it formed a natural lawn, and 
was perfection for a camp ; drains were dug around the 
tent walls, and everything was arranged for a permanency. 
I agreed with the sheik for the erection of a comfortable 
hut for ourselves, a kitchen adjoining, and a hut for the 
servants, as the heavy storms were too severe for a life 
under canvas ; in the meantime we sat in our tent, and 
had a quiet chat with Florian, the German. 

He was a sallow, sickly-looking man, who with a large 
bony frame had been reduced from constant hard work 
and frequent sickness to little but skin and sinew ; he 
was a mason, who had left Germany with the Austrian 
Mission to Khartoum, but finding the work too laborious 
in such a climate, he and a friend, who was a carpenter, 
had declared for independence, and they had left the 
Mission. 

They were both enterprising fellows, and sportsmen ; 
therefore they had purchased rifles and ammunition, and 
had commenced life as hunters ; at the same time they 
employed their leisure hours in earning money by the 
work of their hands in various ways. Florian, being a 
stonemason, had of course built his hut of stone ; he was 
a fair blacksmith and carpenter, and was weJl provided 
with tools ; but his principal occupation was whipmaking, 
from the hides of hippopotami. As coorbatches were 
required throughout the country there was an extensive 
demand for his camel- whips, which were far superior to 
those of native manufacture ; these he sold to the Arabs 
at about two shillings each. He had lately met with a 
serious accident by the bursting of one of the wretched 
guns that formed his sporting battery; this had blown 
away his thumb from the wrist joint, and had so shattered 
his hand that it would most likely have suffered amputa- 
tion had he enjoyed the advantage of European surgical 
assistance ; but with the simple aid of his young black 
lad, liicliarn, who cut off the dangling thumb and liesh 
with his knife, he had preserved his hand, minus one 
portion. 

Florian had had considerable experience in some parts 
of the country that I was about to visit, and he gave me 



ciiAP. VII.] PEC UlIARITIES OF THE SEASONS. 101 

much valuable inforniation that was of great assistance in 
directing my first operations. The close of the rainy- 
season would be about the middle of September, but 
travelling would be impossible until November, as the 
fly would not quit the country until the grass should 
become dry ; therefore the Arabs would not return with 
their camels until that period. 

It appeared that this peculiar fly, which tortured all 
domestic animals, invaded the country shortly after the 
commencement of the rains, when the grass was about 
two feet high ; a few had already been seen, but Sofi was a 
favoured spot that was generally exempt from this plague, 
which clung more particularly to the flat and rich table 
lands, where the quality of grass was totally different to 
that produced upon the pebbly and denuded soil of the 
sandstone slopes of the valley. The grass of the slopes 
was exceedingly fine, and would not exceed a height of 
about two feet, while that of the table lands would exceed 
nine feet, and become impassable, until sufficiently dry to 
be cleared by fire. In November, the entire country would 
become a vast prairie of dried straw, the burning of which 
would then render travelling and hunting possible. 

Florian had hunted for some distance along the Set- 
tite river with his companions, and had killed fifty-three 
hippopotami during the last season. I therefore agreed 
that he should accompany me until I should have suffi- 
ciently explored that river, after which I proposed to 
examine the rivers Salaam and Angrab, of which great 
tributaries of the Atbara nothing definite was known, 
except that they joined that river about fifty miles south 
of Sofi. 

Floiian described the country as very healthy during 
the dry season, but extremely dangerous during the rains, 
especially in the month of October, when, on the cessa- 
tion of rain, the sun evaporated the moisture from the 
sodden ground and rank vegetation. I accordingly deter- 
mined to arrange our winter quarters as comfortably as 
possible at Sofi for three montlis, during which holiday I 
should have ample time for gaining intbrmation and com^ 
pleting my arrangements for the future. Violent storms 



102 1 BEC031E A HOUSEHOLDER. [chap. vii. 

were now of daily occurrence ; they had first commenced 
at about 2 p.m., but they had gradually altered the hour 
of their arrival to between 3 and 4. This night, 29th 
July, we were visited at about 11 P.M. with the most 
tremendous tempest that we had yet experienced, which 
lasted until the morning. Fortunately the tent was well 
secured with four powerful storm-ropes fastened from the 
top of the pole, and pinned about twenty-iive yards from 
the base to iron bars driven deep into the hard ground ; 
but the night was passed in the discomforts of a deluge 
that, driven by the hurricane, swept through the tent, 
which threatened every minute to desert us in shreds. 
On the following morning the storm had passed away, 
and the small tent had done likewise, having been blown 
down and carried many yards from the spot where it had 
been pitched. Mahomet, who was the occupant, had 
found himself suddenly enveloped in wet canvas, from 
which he had emerged like a frog in the storm. There 
was no time to be lost in completing my permanent camp ; 
I therefore sent for the sheik of the village, and proceeded 
to purchase a house. I accompanied him through the 
narrow lanes of Sofi, and was quickly shown a remarkably 
neat house, which I succeeded in purchasing from the 
owner for the sum of ten piastres (two shillings). This 
did not seem an extravagant outlay for a neat dwelling 
with a sound roof ; neither were there any legal expenses 
in the form of conveyance, as in that happy and practical 
land the simple form of conveyance is the transportation 
of the house (the roof) upon the shoulders of about thirty 
men, and thus it is conveyed to any spot that the pur- 
chaser may consider desirable. Accordingly, our mansion 
was at once seized by a crowd of Arabs, and carried oil 
in triumph, while the sticks that formed the wall were 
quickly arranged upon the site I had chosen for our 
camp. In the short space of about three hours I found 
myself the proprietor of an eligible freehold residence, 
situated upon an eminence in park-like grounds, com- 
manding extensive and romantic views of the beautifully- 
wooded valley of the Atbara, within a minute's walk of 
the neighbouring village of Sofi, perfect immunity from 



CHAP. VII.] ARRANGEMENT OF OUR ESTABLISIBIENT. 103 

all poor-rates, tithes, taxes, and other public burtlieus, not 
more than 2,000 miles from a church, with the advantac^e 
of a post-town at the easy distance of seventy leagues. 
The manor comprised the right of shooting throughout 
the parishes of Abyssinia and Soudan, plentifully stocked 
with elephants, lions, rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, hip- 
popotami, leopards, and a great variety of antelopes ; while 
the right of fishing extended throughout the Atbara and 
neighbouring rivers, that were well stocked with fish 
ranging from five to a hundred and fifty pounds ; also 
with turtles and crocodiles. 

The mansion comprised entrance-hall, dining-room, 
drawing-room, lady's boudoir, library, breakfast-room, bed- 
room and dressing-room (with the great advantage of 
their combination in one circular room fourteen feet in 
diameter). The architecture was of an ancient style, from 
the original design of a pill-box surmounted by a candle 
extinguisher. 

Thus might my estate have been described by an 
English estate aqent and auctioneer, with a better founda- 
tion of fact than many newspaper advertisements. 

I purchased two additional huts, one of which was 
erected at the back (if a circle has a back) of our mansion, 
as the kitchen, while the other at a greater distance 
formed the "servants' hall." We all worked hard for 
several days in beautifying our house and grounds. In 
the lovely short grass that resembled green velvet, we cut 
walks to the edge of a declivity, and surrounded the 
house with a path of snow-white sand, resembling coarsely 
pounded sugar ; this we obtained from some decomposeil 
sandstone rock which crumbled upon the slightest pres- 
sure. We collected curiously-shaped blocks of rock, and 
masses of fossils wood that were imbedded in the sand- 
stone ; these we formed into borders for our walks, and 
opposite to our front door (there was no back door) we 
arranged a half-circle or " carriage-drive," of white sand, to 
the extreme edge of the declivity, which we bordered with 
large rocks ; one of which I believe may remain to this 
day, as I carried it to the spot to form a seat, and my 
vanity was touched by the fact that it required two Arabs 



104 LIST OF MY GUNS. [chap. vii. 

to raise it from the ground. I made a rustic table of split 
bamboos, and two garden seats opposite the entrance of the 
house, and we collected a number of wild plants and bulbs 
which we planted in little beds ; we also sowed the seeds 
of different gourds that were to climb up on our roof. 

In the course of a week we had formed as pretty a 
camp as Robinson Crusoe himself could have coveted ; 
but he, poor unfortunate, had only his man Friday to 
assist him, while in our arrangements there were many 
charms and indescribable little comforts that could only 
be effected by a lady's hand. Not only were our w^alks 
covered with snow-white sand and the borders orna- 
mented with beautiful agates that we had collected in 
the neighbourhood, but the interior of our house was 
the perfection of neatness : the Hoor was covered with 
white sand beaten firmly together to the depth of about 
six inches ; the surface was swept and replaced with 
fresh material daily ; the travelling bedsteads, with their 
bright green mosquito curtains, stood on either side, 
affording a clear space in the centre of the circle, while 
exactly opposite the door stood the gun-rack, with as 
goodly an array of weapons as the heart of a sportsman 
could desire: — 

My little Fletcher double rifle. No. 24. 

One double rifle, No. 10, by Tatham. 

Two double riHes, No. 10, by Reilly. 

One double rifle, No. 10, by Beattie (one of my old 
Ceylon tools). 

One double gun. No. 10, by Beattie. 

One double gun, No. 10, by Purdey, belonging to Mr. 
Oswell, of South African celebrity. 

One single rifle, No. 8, by Manton. 

One single rifle, No. 14, by Beattie. 

One single rifle that carried a half pound explosive 
shell, by Holland of Bond Street; this was nicknamed 
by the Arabs " Jenna el Mootfah " (child of a cannon), 
and for the sake of brevity I called it the "Baby." 

My revolver and a brace of double-barrelled pistols 
hung upon the wall, which, although the exterior of the 
house was straw, we had lined with the bright coloured 



OHAP. VII.] NO PIPE! 105 

canvas of the tent. Suspended by loops were little 
ornamental baskets worked by the Arabs, that contained 
a host of useful articles, such as needles, thread, &c. &c. ; 
and the remaining surface was hung with hunting knives, 
fishing lines, and a variety of instruments belonging to 
the chase. A travelling table, with maps and a few books, 
stood against the wall, and one more article completed 
our furniture, — an exceedingly neat toilet table, the base 
of which was a flat-topped portmanteau, concealed by 
a cunning device of chintz and muslin ; this, covered 
with the usual arrangement of brushes, mirror, scent- 
bottles, &c. threw an air of civilization over the establish- 
ment, which was increased by the pi-esence of an immense 
sponging-bath, that, being flat and circular, could be fitted 
underneath a bed. In the draught of air next the door 
stood our filter in a wooden frame, beneath which was a 
porous jar that received and cooled the clear water as 
it fell. 

Our camp was a perfect model ; we had a view of about 
five miles in extent along the valley of the Atbara, and it 
was my daily amusement to scan with my telescope the 
uninhabited country upon the opposite side of the river, 
and watch the wild animals as they grazed in perfect 
security. I regret that at that time I did not smoke ; in 
the cool of the evening we used to sit by the bamboo 
table outside the door of our house, and drink our coffee 
in perfect contentment amidst the beautiful scene of a 
tropical sunset and the deep shadows in the valley ; but 
a pipe ! — the long *' chibbook " of the Turk would have 
made our home a Paradise ! Nevertheless we were 
thoroughly happy at Sofi ; — there was a delightful calm, 
and a sense of rest ; a total estrangement from the cares 
of the world, and an enchanting contrast in the soft green 
verdure of the landscape before us to the many hundred 
weary miles of burning desert through which we had 
toiled from Lower Egypt. In those barren tracts, the 
eye had become so accustomed to sterility and yellow 
sand, that it had appeared impossible to change the scene, 
and Africa aHbrded no prospect beyond the blank hitherto 
shown upon the chart of the interior ; we were now in a 



106 ELEMENTS AT WORK. [chap. viii. 

land of rich pastures, and apparently in anotlier world, 
after the toil of a hard life ; — it was the haven of a 
pilgrim, rest ! ^• 

While we were enjoying a few months' repose, the 
elements were ha.rd at work. Every day, without ex- 
ception, and generally for several hours of the night, the 
lightning flashed and thunder roared with little inter- 
mission, while the rain poured in such torrents that the 
entire country became perfectly impassable, with tlie 
exception of the hard ground of the Atbara valley. The 
rich loam of the table land had risen like leavened dough, 
and was knee-deep in adhesive mud ; the grass upon this 
surface grew with such rapidity that in a few weeks it 
reached a height of nine or ten feet. The mud rushed in 
torrents down the countless watercourses, which were 
now in their greatest activity in hurrying away the 
fertile soil of Egypt ; and the glorious Atbara was at 
its maximum. 



CHAPTEE YIIL 

THE PLAGUES OF EGYPT. 

Time glided away smoothly at our camp amidst the storms 
of the rainy season. The Arabs had nothing to do, and 
suffered much from the absence of their herds, as there 
was a great scarcity of milk. The only animals that had 
not been sent to the north were a few goats ; these were 
so teased by the flies that they produced but a small 
supply. Fever had appeared at the same time with thw 
flies, and every one was suffering more or less, especially 
Florian, who was seriously ill. I was in full practice as 
physician, and we congratulated ourselves upon the 
healthiness of our little isolated camp, when suddenly 
my wife was prostrated by a severe attack of gastric fever, 
which for nine days rendered her recovery almost hopeless. 
At length the fever gave way to careful attendance, and 
my Arab patients and Florian were also in a fair way 



CHAF. VIII.] THE " COORASW 107 

towards recovery. The plagues of Egypt were upon us ; 
the common house-flies were in billions, in addition to 
the cattle-tormentor. Our donkeys would not graze, but 
stood day and night in the dense smoke of fires, made of 
sticks and green grass, for protection. 

The plague of boils broke out, and every one w^as 
attacked more or less severely. Then came a plague of 
which Moses must have been ignorant, or he would surely 
lipvve- inflicted it upon Pharaoh. This was a species of 
itch, which afi'ected all ages and both sexes equally ; it 
attacked all parts of the body, but principally the ex- 
tremities. The irritation was beyond description ; small 
vesicles rose above the skin, containing a watery fluid, 
which, upon bursting, appeared to spread the disease. The 
Arabs had no control over this malady, which they called 
"coorash," and the whole country was scratching. The 
popular belief attributed the disease to the water of the 
Atbara at this particular season : although a horrible 
plague, I do not believe it to have any connexion with 
the well-known itch or '' scabies " of Europe. 

I adopted a remedy that I had found a specific for 
mange in dogs, and this treatment became equally suc- 
cessful in cases of coorash. Gunpowder, with the addition 
of one-fourth of sulphur, made into a soft paste w^ith 
water, and then formed into an ointment with fat : this 
should be rubbed over the whole body. The effect upon 
a black man is that of a well-cleaned boot — upon a white 
man it is still more striking; but it quickly cures th*^ 
malady. I went into half mourning by this process, ana 
I should have adopted deep mourning had it been neces- 
sary ; I was only attacked from the feet to a little above 
the knees. Florian was in a dreadful state, and the 
vigorous and peculiar action of his arms at once explained 
the origin of the term " Scotch fiddle," the musical 
instrument commonly attributed to the north of Great 
Britain. 

The Arabs are ^^Tetchedly ignorant of the healing art, 
and they suffer accordingly. At least fifty per cent, of the 
population in Sofi had a permanent enlargement of the 
spleen, which could be felt with a slight pressure of the 



108 THE ARAB M.D. [chap, tiii, 

hand, frequently as large as an orange ; this was called 
" Jenna el Wirde " (child cf the fever), and was the result 
of constant attacks of fever in successive rainy seasons. 

Faith is the drug that is supposed to cure the Arab ; 
whatever liis complaint may be, he applies to his Faky or 
priest. This minister is not troubled with a confusion of 
book-learning, neither are the shelves of his library bend- 
ing beneath weighty treatises upon the various maladies 
of human nature ; but he possesses the key to all learning, 
the talisman that will apply to all cases, in that one holy 
hook the Koran. This is his complete pharmacopoeia: 
his medicine chest, combining purgatives, blisters, sudo- 
rifics, styptics, narcotics, emetics, and all that the most 
profound M.D. could prescribe. With this "multum in 
parvo" stock-in-trade the Faky receives his patients. 
No. 1 arrives, a barren woman w^ho requests some 
medicine that will promote the blessing of childbirth. 
No. 2, a man who was strong in his youth, but from ex- 
cessive dissipation has become useless. No. 3, a man 
deformed from his birth, who wishes to become straight 
as other men. No. 4, a blind child. No. 5, a dying old 
woman, carried on a litter ; and sundry other impossible 
cases, with others of a more simple character. 

The Faky pioduces his book, the holy Koran, and w^ith 
a pen formed of a reed he proceeds to write a prescription ; 
not to be made up by an apothecary, as such dangerous 
people do not exist, but the prescription itself is to be 
swallowed! Upon a smooth board, like a slate, he rubs 
sufiicient lime to produce a perfectly wdiite surface ; upon 
this he writes in large characters, with thick glutinous 
ink, a verse or verses from the Koran that he considers 
applicable to the case ; this completed, he w^ashes off the 
holy quotation, and converts it into a potation by the 
addition of a little water ; this is swallowed in perfect 
faith by the patient, who in return pays a fee according 
to the demand of tbe Faky. Of course it cannot be 
supposed that this effects a cure, or that it is in any way 
superior to tbe prescriptions of a thorough-bred English 
doctor ; the only advantage possessed by tbe system is 
complete innocence, in which it may perhaps claim a 



cuAP. vtil] ARAB FONDNESS FOR RELICS. 109 

superiority. Tf no good result is attained by tlie first 
holy dose, the patient returns with undiminished con- 
fidence, and the prescription is repeated as ** the draught 
as before," well known to the physic-drinkers of England, 
and in like manner attended with the bill. The fakeers 
make a considerable amount by this simple practice, and 
they add to their small earnings by the sale of verses of 
the Koran as talismans. 

As few people can read or write, there is an air of 
mystery in the art of writing which much enhances the 
value of a scrap of paper upon which is written a verse 
from the Koran. A few piastres are willingly expended 
in the purchase of such talismans, which are carefully 
and very neatly sewn into small envelopes of leather, 
and are worn by all people, being handed down from 
father to son. 

The Arabs are especially fond of relics; thus, upon the 
return from a pilgrimage to Mecca, the " hadji," or pilgrim, 
is certain to have purchased from some religious Faky of 
the sacred shrine either a few square inches of cloth, or 
some such trifle, that belonged to the prophet Mahomet. 
This is exhibited to his friends and strangers as a wonder- 
ful spell against some particular malady, and it is handed 
about and received with extreme reverence by the 
assembled crowd. I once formed one of a circle when a 
pilgrim returned to his native village : w^e sat in a con- 
siderable number upon the ground, while he drew from 
his bosom a leather envelope, suspended from his neck, 
from which he produced a piece of extremely greasy 
woollen cloth, about three inches square, the original 
colour of which it would have been impossible to guess. 
This was a piece of Mahomet's garment, but what portion 
he could not say. The pilgrim had paid largely for this 
blessed relic, and it was passed round our circle from hand 
to hand, after • having first been kissed by the proprietor, 
who raised it to the crown of his head, which he touched 
with the cloth, and then w^iped both his eyes. Each 
person who received it went throtigh a similar perform- 
ance, and as ophthalmia and other diseases of the eyes 
were extremely prevalent, several of the i->arty had eyes 



110 THi: PEST SPOTS OF THE IFORLD. [chap. vm. 

that had not the brightness of the gazelle's ; nevertheless, 
these were supposed to become brighter after having been 
wiped by the holy cloth. How many eyes this same 
piece of cloth had wiped it would be impossible to say, 
but such facts are sufficient to prove the danger of holy 
relics, that are inoculators of all manner of contagious 
diseases. 

I believe in holy shrines as the pest spots of the world. 
We generally have experienced in Western Europe that 
all violent epidemics arrive from the East. The great 
breadth of the Atlantic boundary would naturally protect 
us from the West, but infectious disorders, such as plague, 
cholera, small-pox, &c. may be generally tracked throughout 
their gradations from their original nests ; those nests are 
in the East, where the heat of the climate acting upon 
the filth of semi-savage communities engenders pestilence. 

The holy places of both Christians and Mahometans 
are the receptacles for the masses of people of all nations 
and classes who have arrived from all points of the 
compass ; the greater number of such people are of poor 
estate ; many, \rho have toiled on foot from immense 
distances, suffering from hunger and fatigue, and bringing 
with them not only the diseases of their own remote 
countries, but arriving in that weak state that courts the 
attack of any epidemic. Thus crowded together, with a 
scarcity of provisions, a want of water, and no possibility 
of cleanliness, with clothes that have been unwashed for 
weeks or months, in a camp of dirty pilgrims, without 
any attempt at drainage, an accumulation of filth takes 
place that generates either cholera or typhus ; the latter, 
in its most malignant form, appears as the dreaded 
"plague." Should such an epidemic attack the mass of 
pilgrims debilitated by the want of nourishing food, and 
exhausted by their fatiguing march, it runs riot like a fire 
among combustibles, and the loss of life is terrific. The 
survivors radiate from this common centre, upon their 
return to their respective homes, to which they carry the 
seeds of the pestilence to germinate upon new soils in dif- 
ferent countries. Doubtless the clothes of the dead furnish 
materials for innumerable holy relics as vestiges of the 



CHAP. VIII.] THE FAKY 'S GRAVE. Ill 

wardrobe of the Prophet ; these are disseminated by the 
pilgrims throughout all countries, pregnant with disease ; 
and, being brought into personal contact with hosts of 
true believers, Pandora's box could not be more fatal 

Not only are relics upon a pocket scale conveyed by 
pilgrims, and reverenced by the Arabs, but the body of 
any Faky, who in lifetime was considered extra holy, is 
brought from a great distance to be interred in some par- 
ticular spot. In countries where a tree is a rarity, a plank 
for a coffin is unknown ; thus the reverend Faky, who may 
have died of typhus, is wrapped in cloths and packed in a 
mat. Tn this form he is transported, perhaps, some hun- 
dred miles, slung upon a camel, with the thermometer 
above 130° Fahr. in the sun, and he is conveyed to the 
village that is so fortunate as to be honoured with his 
remains. It may be readily imagined that with a favour- 
able wind, the inhabitants are warned of his approach 
some time before his arrival. Happily, long before we 
arrived at Sofi, the village had been blessed by the death 
of a celebrated Faky, a holy man who would have been 
described as a second Isaiah were the annals of the country 
duly chronicled. This great "man of God," as he was 
termed, had departed this life at a village on the borders 
of the Nile, about eight days' hard camel-journey from 
Sofi ; but from some assumed right, mingled no doubt 
with jobbery, the inhabitants of Sofi had laid claim to 
his body, and he had arrived upon a camel horizontally, 
and had been buried about fifty yards from our present 
camp. His grave was beneath a clump of mimosas that 
shaded the spot, and formed the most prominent object 
in the foreground of our landscape. Thither every Friday 
the women of the village congregated, with offerings of a 
few handfuls of dhurra in small gourd-shells, which they 
laid upon the grave, while they ate the holy earth in small 
pinches, which they scraped like rabbits, from a hole they 
had burrowed towards the venerated corpse ; this hole was 
about two feet deep from continual scratching, and must 
have been very near the Faky. 

Although bamboos did not grow in Soil, great numbers 
were brought down by the river during the rains ; these 



112 ARAB DOCTORING. [chap. vtii. 

were eagerly collected by the Arabs, and the grave of the 
Faky was ornamented with selected specimens, upon which 
were hung small pieces of rag-like banners. The people 
could not explain why they were thus ornamented, but I 
imagine the custom had originated irom the necessity of 
scaring the wild animals that might have exhumed the 
body. 

Although the grave of this revered Faky was considered 
a sacred spot, the women had a curious custom that we 
should not consider an honour to the sanctity of the place : 
they met in parties beneath the shade of the mimosas 
that covered the grave, for the express purpose of freeing 
each other's heads from vermin ; the creatures thus caught, 
instead of being killed, were turned loose upon the Faky. 

Although the Arabs in places remote from the imme- 
diate action of the Egyptian authorities are generally 
lawless, they are extremely obedient to their own sheiks, 
and especially to the fakeers : thus it is important to 
secure such heads of the people as friends. My success 
as a physician had gained me many friends, as I studiously 
avoided the acceptance of any present in return for my 
services, which I wished them to receive as simple acts of 
kindness ; thus I had placed the Sheik Hassan bel Kader 
under an obligation, by curing him of a fever ; and as he 
chanced to combine in his own person the titles of both 
sheik and faky, I had acquired a great ascendency in the 
village, as my medicines had proved more efhcacious than 
the talismans. "Physician, cure thyself," applied to the 
Fak'y, who found three grains of my tartar emetic more 
powerful than a whole chapter of the Koran. 

We frequently had medical discussions, and the con- 
tents of my large medicine-chest were examined with 
wonder by a curious crowd; the simple effect of mixing a 
seidlitz powder was a source of astonishment ; but a few 
drops of sulphuric acid upon a piece of strong cotton cloth, 
which it destroyed immediately, was a miiacle that in- 
vested the medicine-chest with a specific character for all 
diseases. The Arab style of doctoring is rather rough. If 
a horse or other animal has inflammation, they hobble the 
legs and throw it upon the ground, alter which operation a 



CHAP. VIII.] DJELIGBTS OF ARAB SURGERY. 113 

number of men kick it in the belly until it is relieved — 
(by death). Should a man be attacked with fever, his 
friends prescribe a system of diet, in addition to the Koran 
of the Faky : he is made to drink, as hot as he can swallow 
it, about a quart of melted sheep's fat or butter. Young 
dogs, as a cure for distemper, are thrown from the roof of 
a house to the ground — a height of about ten feet. One 
night we were sitting at dinner, when we suddenly heard 
a great noise, and the air was illumined by the blaze of a 
hut on hre. In the midst of the tumult I heard the 
unmistakeable cries of dogs, and thinking that they were 
unable to escape from the fire, I ran towards the spot. As 
I approached, first one and then another dog ran screaming 
from the flames, until a regular pack of about twenty 
scorched animals appeared in quick succession, all half 
mad with fright and fire. I w^as informed that hydro- 
phobia was very prevalent in the country, and that the 
certain preventive from that frightful malady was to make 
all the dogs of the village pass through the fire. Accord- 
ingly an old hut had been filled with straw and fired ; 
after which, each dog was brought by its owner and thrown 
into the flames. Upon another occasion I heard a great 
yelling and commotion, and I found Mahomet's " mother's 
brother's cousin's sister's mother's son," Achmet, struggling 
on the ground, and nearly overpowered by a number of 
Arabs, who were determined to operate upon a large boil 
in his groin, which they had condemned to be squeezed, 
although it was not in a state that admitted of such treat- 
ment. The patient was biting and kicking liberally on all 
sides in self-defence, and his obstinate surgeons could 
hardly be persuaded to desist. 

Syphilis is common throughout the country, and there 
are several varieties of food that are supposed to effect a 
cure. A sheep is killed, and the entire flesh is cooked' 
with the fat, being cut into small pieces and baked in a 
pot ; several pounds of butter or other grease are then 
boiled, and in that state are poured into the jars containing 
the baked meat ; the patient is then shut up by himself in 
a hut with this large quantity of fat food, with which he is 
to gorge himself until the whole is consumed. Another 

I 



114 SJFORD HUNTERS OF TEE EAMRAN ARABS. [cH.viii, 

supposed cure for the same disease is a pig dressed in 
a similar manner, which meat, although forbidden by the 
Koran, may be taken medicinally. The flesh of the croco- 
dile is eaten greedily, being supposed to promote desire. 
There are few animals that the Arabs of the Nubian pro- 
vinces will refuse ; the wild boar is invariably eaten by the 
Arab hunters, although in direct opposition to the rules 
of the Koran. I once asked them what their Faky would 
say if he were aware of such a transgression. " Oh I " 
they replied, "we have already asked his permission, as 
we are sometimes severely pressed for food in the jimgles ; 
he says, ' If you have the Koran in your hand and no pig, 
you are forbidden to eat pork ; but if you have the pig in 
your hand and no Koran, you had better eat what God has 
given you.'" 

This is a charming example of simplicity in theological 
discussion that might perhaps be followed with advantage 
in graver questions ; we might cease to strain at the gnats 
and swallow our pigs. 

I had an audience of a party of hunters whom I had 
long wished to meet. Before my arrival at Sofi I had 
heard of a particular tribe of Arabs that inhabited the 
country south of Cassala, between that town and the Base 
country ; these were the Hamrans, who were described as 
the most extraordinary Mmrods, who hunted and killed 
aU wild animals, from the antelope to the elephant, with 
no other weapon than the sword ; the lion and the rhino- 
ceros fell alike before the invincible sabres of these mighty 
hunters, to whom as an old elephant-hunter I wished to 
make my salaam, and humbly confess my inferiority. 

From the manner in which their exploits had been 
hitherto explained to me, I could not understand how 
it could be possible to kill an elephant with the sword, 
unless the animal should be mobbed by a crowd of men 
and hacked to death, but I was assured that the most 
savage elephant had no chance upon good riding ground 
against four aggageers (as the hunters with the sword are 
designated). 1 had determined to engage a party of these 
hunters to accompany me throughout my exploration 
of the Abyssinian rivers at the proper season, when I 



CHAP. VIII.] THE ARAB SHIELDS. 115 

should have an excellent opportunity of combining sport 
with an examination of the country. My intentions 
had become known, and the visit of the hunters was the 
consequence. 

The Hamran Arabs are distinguished from the other 
tribes by an extra length of hair, worn parted down the 
centre, and arranged in long curls ; otherwise there is no 
perceptible difference in their appearance from other 
Arabs. They are armed, as are all others, wdth swords 
and shields; the latter are circular, and are generally 
formed of rhinoceros hide. There are two forms of shields 
used by the various tribes of Arabs : one is a narrow oval, 
about four feet in lencrth, of either bull's or buffalo's hide, 
stiffened by a strong stick which passes down the centre ; 
the other is circular, about two feet in diameter, with 
a projection in the centre as a protection for the hand. 
When laid flat upon the ground, the shield somewhat 
resembles an immensely broad-brimmed hat, with a low 
crow^n terminating in a point. In the inside of the crown 
is a strong bar of leather as a grip for the hand, w^hile the 
outside is generally guarded by a strip of the scaly hide of 
a crocodile. 

The skins most prized for shields are those of the giraffe 
and the rhinoceros ; those of the buffalo and elephant are 
likew^ise in general use, but they are considered inferior to 
the former, while the hide of the hippopotamus is too thick 
and hea^y. 

The hide of the girafte is wonderfully tough, and com- 
bines the great advantage of extreme lightness with 
strength. The Arabs never ornament their shields ; they 
are made for rough and actual service, and the gashes upon 
many are proofs of the necessity of such a protection for 
the owner. 

Although there are two patterns of shields among the 
Arabs, there is no difference in the form of their swords, 
which simply vary in size according to the strength of 
the wearer. The blade is long and straight, two-edged, 
with a simple cross handle, having no other guard for 
the hand than the plain bar, which at right angles with 
the hilt forms the cross. I believe this form was adopted 

l2 



116 KEENNESS OF SWORD EDGE. [chap. viii. 

after the Crusades, when the long, straight, cross-handled 
blades of the Christian knights left an impression behind 
them that established the fashion. All these blades are 
manufactured at Sollingen, and are exported to Egypt 
for the trade of the interior. Of course they differ in 
quality and price, but they are of excellent temper. The 
Arabs are extremely proud of a good sword, and a blade 
of great value is carefully handed down through many 
generations. The sheiks and principal people wear silver- 
hilted swords. The scabbards are usually formed of two 
thin strips of elastic but soft wood, covered with leather. 
No Arab would accept a metal scabbard, as it would 
destroy the keen edge of his weapon. The greatest care 
is taken in sharpening the swords. While on the march, 
the Arab carries his weapon slung on the pommel of his 
saddle, from which it passes beneath his thigh. There 
are two projecting pieces of leather, about twelve inches 
apart, upon the scabbard, between which the thigh of 
the horseman fits, and thus prevents the sword from 
slipping from its place. Carried in this position at full 
speed, there is an absence of that absurd dangling and 
jumping of the sword that is exhibited in our British 
cavalry, and the weapon seems to form a portion of the 
rider. The first action of an Arab when he dismounts 
at a halt upon the march, and sits beneath a tree, is to 
draw his sword; and after trying both edges with his 
thumb, he carefully strops the blade to and fro upon his 
shield until a satisfactory proof of the edge is made by 
shaving the hair off his arm, after which it is returned 
to the sheath. I have measured these swords ; that of 
a fair average size is three feet in the length of blade, 
and one inch and seven-eighths in breadth ; the hilt, 
from the top of the guard to the extremity, five and a 
half inches. Thus the sword complete would be about 
three feet five or six inches. Such a weapon possesses 
immense power, as the edge is nearly as sharp as a 
razor. But the Arabs have not the slightest knowledge 
of swordsmanship ; they never parry with the blade, but 
trust entirely to the shield, and content themselves with 
slashing either at their adversary or at the animal that 



CKAP. VIII.] ARAB SirORDSMANSHIP. 117 

he rides ; one good cut delivered by a powerful arm 
would sever a man at tlie waist like a carrot. The 
Arabs are not very powerful men ; they are extremely 
light and active, and generally average about five feet 
eight inches in height. But their swords are far too 
heavy for their strength ; and although they can deliver 
a severe cut, they cannot recover the sword sufficiently 
quick to parry, therefore they are contented with the 
shield as their only guard. If opposed to a good swords- 
man they would be perfectly at his mercy, as a feint at 
the head causes them to raise the shield ; this prevents 
them from seeing the point, that would immediately pass 
through the body. 

Notwithstanding their deficiency in the art of the 
sw^ord, they are wonderful fellows to cut and slash ; and 
when the sharp edge of the heavy weapon touches an 
enemy, the effect is terrible. 

The elephant-hunters, or aggageers, exhibited their 
swords, which differed in no respect from those usually 
Avorn; but they were bound with cord very closely from 
the guard for about nine inches along the blade, to 
enable them to be grasped by the right hand, while 
the hilt was held by the left; the weapon was thus 
converted into a two-handed sword. The scabbards were 
strengthened by an extra covering, formed of the skin 
of the elephant's ear. 

In a long conversation with these men, I found a cor- 
roboration of all that I had previously heard of their 
exploits, and they described the various methods of killing 
the elephant with the sword. Those hunters who could 
not afford to purchase horses hunted on foot, in parties 
not exceeding two persons. Their method was to follow 
the tracks of an elephant, so as to arrive at their game 
between the hours of 10 A.M. and noon, at which time 
the animal is either asleep, or extremely listless, and easy 
to approach. Should they discover the animal asleep, one 
of the hunters would creep stealthily towards the head, 
and with one blow sever the trunk while stretched upon 
the ground ; in which case the elephant would start upon 
his feet, while the hunters escaped in the confusion of the 



118 THE AGGAGEERS. [chap. viii. 

moment. The trunk severed would cause an haemorrhage 
sufficient to insure the death of the elephant within about 
an hour. On the other hand, should the animal be awake 
upon their arrival, it would be impossible to approach 
the trunk; in such a case, they would creep up from 
behind, and give a tremendous cut at the back sinew 
of the hind leg, about a foot above the heel. Such a 
blow would disable the elephant at once, and would 
render comparatively easy a second cut to the remaining 
leg ; the arteries being divided, the animal would quickly 
bleed to death. These were the methods adopted by poor 
hunters, until, by the sale of ivory, they could purchase 
horses for the higher branch of the art. Provided with 
horses, the party of hunters should not exceed four. They 
start before daybreak, and ride slowly throughout the 
country in search of elephants, generally keeping along 
the course of a river until they come upon the tracks 
where a herd or a single elephant may have drunk during 
the night. When once upon the tracks, they follow fast 
towards the retreating game. The elephants may be 
twenty miles distant ; but it matters little to the agga- 
geers. At length they discover them, and the hunt begins. 
The first step is to single out the bull with the largest 
tusks; this is the commencement of the fight. After a 
short hunt, the elephant turns upon his pursuers, who 
scatter and fly from his headlong charge until he gives 
up the pursuit ; he at length turns to bay when again 
pressed by the hunters. It is the duty of one man in 
particular to ride up close to the head of the elephant, 
and thus to absorb its attention upon himself This 
insures a desperate charge. The greatest coolness and 
dexterity are then required by the hunter, who now, the 
hunted, must so adapt the speed of his horse to the pace 
of the elephant, that the enraged beast gains in the race 
until it almost reaches the tail of the horse. In this 
manner the race continues. In the meantime, two hunters 
gallop up behind the elephant, unseen by the animal, 
whose attention is completely directed to the horse almost 
within his grasp. With extreme agility, when close to 
the heels of the elephant, one of the hunters, while at 



CHAP. VIII.] ARAB DISABLED BY HIS OWN SWORD. 119 

full speed, springs to the ground with his drawn sword, 
as his companion seizes the bridle, and with one dexterous 
two-handed blow^ he severs the back sinew. He imme- 
diately jumps out of the way and remounts his horse ; 
but if the blow is successful, the elephant becomes dis- 
abled by the first pressure of its foot upon the ground ; 
the enormous weight of the animal dislocates the joint, 
and it is rendered helpless. The hunter who has hitherto 
led the elephant immediately turns, and riding to within a 
few feet of the trunk, he induces the animal to attempt 
another charge. This, clumsily made, affords an easy 
opportunity for the aggageers behind to slash the sinew 
of the remaining leg, and the immense brute is reduced 
to a standstill ; it dies of loss of blood in a short time, 
thus positively hilled hy one man with two strokes of the 
sword ! 

This extraordinary hunting is attended wdth superlative 
danger, and the hunters frequently fall victims to their 
intrepidity. I felt inclined to take off my cap and make a 
low bow to the gallant and swarthy fellows who sat before 
me, when 1 knew the toughness of their hearts and the 
activity of their limbs. One of them w^as disabled for life 
by a cut from his own sword, that had severed the knee- 
cap and bitten deep into the joint, leaving a scar that 
appeared as though the leg had been nearly off; he had 
missed his blow at the elephant, owing to the high and 
tough dried grass that had partially stopped the sword, 
and in springing upon one side, to avoid the animal that 
had turned upon him, he fell over his ow^n sharp blade, 
wdiich cut througli the bone, and he lay helpless ; he was 
saved by one of his comrades, who immediately rushed in 
from behind, and with a desperate cut severed the back 
sinew of the elephant. As I listened to these fine fellows, 
who in a modest and unassuming manner recounted their 
adventures as matters of course, I felt exceedingly small. 
My whole life had been passed in wild sports from early 
manhood, and I had imagined that I understood as much 
as most people of this subject ; but here were men who, 
without the aid of the best rifies and deadly projectiles, 
went straight at their game, and faced the lion in his 



120 MARIA THERESA, [chap. viii. 

den with shield and sabre. There is a freemasonry among 
hunters, and my heart was drawn towards these aggageers. 
We fraternised upon the spot, and I looked forward with 
intense pleasure to the day when we might become allies 
in action. 

I have been rewarded by this alliance in being now 
able to speak of the deeds of others that far excel my 
own, and of bearing testimony to the wonderful courage 
and dexterity of these Nimrods, instead of continually 
relating anecdotes of dangers in the first person, which 
cannot be more disagreeable to the reader than to the 
narrator. 

Without inflicting a description of five months passed 
in Sofi, it will be necessary to make a few extracts 
from my journal, to convey an idea of the manner in 
which the time v/as occupied. 

"August 7, 1861. — There is plenty of game on the 
other side of the river, but nothing upon this ; there 
are no means of crossing, as the stream is exceedingly 
strong, and about two hundred yards in width. We 
felled a tree for a canoe, but there is nothing worthy of 
the name of timber, and the wood is extremely heavy. 

"There are several varieties of wdld spinach, and a 
plant that makes a good salad, known by the Arabs 
as *' Regly ; ' also wild onions as large as a man's fist, 
but uneatable. 

^^ August 8. — I counted seventy- six giraffes on the oppo- 
site side of the river. This magnificent sight is most 
tantalizing. The sheik made his appearance to-day with 
a present of butter and honey, and some small money in 
exchange for dollars that 1 had given him. The Austrian 
dollar of Maria Theresa is the only large coin current 
in this country ; the eflig}' of the empress, with a very 
low dress and a profusion of bust, is, 1 believe, the charm 
that suits the Arab taste. So particular are these people, 
that they reject the coin after careful examination, unless 
they can distinctly count seven dots that form the star 
upon the coronet. No clean money will pass current in 
this country ; all coins must be dirty and gummy, other- 
wise they are rejected : this may be accounted for, as the 



CHAP, viii] THE BABOONS AND THE CROCODILE. 121 

Arabs have no method of detecting false money; thus 
they are afraid to accept any new coin. 

" August 16. — Great failure ! We launched the canoe, 
but although it was carefully hollowed out, the wood 
was so heavy that it would only carry one person, and 
even then it threatened to become a bathing-machine; 
thus nine days' hard work are lost. Florian is in despair, 
but ' Nil desperandum ! ' I shall set to work instanter, 
and make a raft. Counted twenty-eight giraffes on the 
opposite side of the river. 

'^ August 17. — I set to work at daybreak to make a 
raft of bamboo and inflated skins. There is a wood 
called ambatch {Anemone miraMlis) that is brought down 
by the river from the upper country; this is lighter than 
cork, and I have obtained four large pieces for my raft. 
Mahomet has been very saucy to-day ; he has been offen- 
sively impertinent for a long time, so this morning I 
punched his head. 

''August 18. — Launched the raft ; it carries four persons 
safely ; but the current is too strong, and it is therefore 
unmanageable. In the afternoon I shot a large crocodile 
on the other side of the river (about two hundred yards) 
with the little Fletcher rifle, and after struggling for some 
time upon the steep bank it rolled into the water. 

*'The large tamarind trees on the opposite bank are 
generally full of the dog-faced baboons {Cynocephalus) in 
the evening, at their drinking-hour. I watched a large 
crocodile creep slyly out of the water, and lie in waiting 
among the rocks at the usual drinking-place before they 
arrived, but the baboons were too wide awake to be taken 
in so easily. A young fellow was the first to discover the 
enemy ; he had accompanied several wise and experienced 
old hands, to the extremity of the bough that at a con- 
siderable height overhung the river ; from this post they 
had a bird's-eye view, and reconnoitred before cue of the 
numerous party descended to drink. The sharp eyes of 
the young one at once detected the crocodile, who matched 
in colour so well with the rocks, that most probably a 
man would not have noticed it until too late. At once 
the young one commenced shaking the bough and scream- 



122 THE DROWNED ELEPHANT. [chap. viii. 

ing with all his might to attract the attention of the 
crocodile, and to induce it to move. In this he was 
immediately joined by the whole party, who yelled in 
chorus, while the large old males bellowed defiance, and 
descended to the lowest branches within eight or ten feet 
of the crocodile. It was of no use — the pretender never 
stirred, and I watched it until dark; it remained still 
in the same place, waiting for some unfortunate baboon 
whose thirst might provoke his fate ; but not one was 
sufficiently foolish, although the perpendicular banks pre- 
vented them from drinking except at that particular spot. 

" The birds in this country moult twice during the year, 
and those of the most brilliant colours exchange their 
gaudy hues for a sober grey or brown Several varieties 
sing beautifully ; the swallow also sings, although in 
Europe I have never heard it attempt more than its well- 
known twitter. 

" One of the mimosas yields an excellent fibre for rope- 
making, in which my people are busily engaged ; the bark 
is as tough as leather, and forms an admirable material 
for the manufacture of sacks. This business is carried to 
a considerable extent by the Arabs, as there is a large 
demand for sacks of sufficient size to contain two hundred 
and fifty or three hundred pounds of gum arable (half 
a camel load). Thus one sack slung upon each side 
can be packed easily to the animal. 

"August 19.— A dead elephant floated dowm the river 
to-day : this is the second that has passed within the last 
few days ; they have been most probably drowned in 
attempting to cross some powerful torrent tributary to 
the Atbara. As usual, upon the fact becoming known, 
the entire village rushed out, and, despite the crocodiles, 
a crowd of men plunged into the river about a quarter of 
a mile below Sofi, and swimming out they intercepted 
the swollen carcase, which was quickly covered with 
people ; they were carried several miles down the river 
before they could tow the body to shore, by ropes fastened 
to the swimmers. Afterwards, there was a general quarrel 
over the division of the spoil : the skin, in sections, and 
the tusks, were brought home in triumph. 



CHAP. viiT.] GAME ON THE EAST BANK. 123 

"The country being now bright green, the antelopes 
are distinctly \dsible on the opposite side. Three tetel 
{Antelopus Buhalis) graze regularly together in tlie same 
place daily. This antelope is a variety of the hartebeest 
of South Africa ; it is a reddish-chestnut colour, and is 
about the size of an Alderney cow. 

" One of the mimosas {Acacia Arabica) produces a 
fruit in appearance resembling a tamarind : this is a 
powerful astringent and a valuable medicine in cases of 
fever and diarrhoea ; it is generally used by the Arabs 
for preparing hides; when dry and broken it is rich in a 
hard gum, which appears to be almost pure tannin. 

" August W. — Close, hot, and damp weather ; violent rain 
about sixteen hours out of the twenty-four. When the hot 
season sets in, the country will almost boil. This morning 
I counted 154 giraffes in one herd on the other side of the 
river ; there were many more, but they passed each other 
so rapidly that I could not reckon the entire troop. 

" August ^1. — I counted 103 giraffes. There is literally 
no game upon this side (w^est) of the Atbara, as the 
country for twelve hours' journey from Sofi is thronged 
with Arabs during the dry season. 

" All my people are more or less ill ; I am not very well 
myself; but I have staved off an attack of fever by 
preventive measures. 

''August 25. — Such a magnificent sunset I have never 
seen! From all quarters were gathering storms of the 
blackest description, each cloud emitting lightning without 
intermission, and as the sun touched the horizon upon the 
only clear point, it illumined like a fire the pitch-black 
clouds, producing the most extraordinary effect of vivid 
colouring, combined with lightning, and a rainbow. 

"Eain in torrents throughout the night. It is now 
impossible to walk on the flat table land, as the soil is 
so saturated that it clings to the feet like birdlime, in 
masses that will j)ull the shoes off unless they fit tight. 
All this immense tract of rich land would grow any 
amount of cotton, or wheat, as in this country the rain 
falls with great regularity — this might be sent to Berber 
by boats during the season of flood. 



124 TANNED SKINS. [chap. viii. 

"August 27. — My antelope skins are just completed and 
are thoroughly tantied. Each skin required a double 
handful of the 'garra/ or fruit of the Acacia Arahica. 
The process is simple : the skin being thoroughly wetted, 
the garra is pounded into a paste ; this is rubbed into the 
hide with a rough piece of sandstone, until it becomes 
perfectly clean, and free from impurities ; it is then 
wrapped up with a quantity of the paste, and is deposited 
in a trough and kept in the shade for twenty-four hours. 
It should undergo a similar rubbing daily, and be kept 
in the trough to soak in the garra for four or five days. 
After this process it should be well rubbed with fat, if 
required to keep soft and pliable when wetted. If soaked 
in milk after tanning, the leather will become waterproof. 
The large tanned ox-hides used by the Arabs as coverlets 
are perfectly waterproof, and are simply prepared with 
ijailk. These are made in Abyssinia, and can be purchased 
at from ten piastres to a dollar each. The Arabs 
thoroughly appreciate the value of leather, as they are 
entirely dependent upon such material for coverlets, 
watersacks, travelling bags, &c. &c. The sac cle voyage 
is a simple skin of either goat or sheep drawn off the 
animal as a stocking is drawn from the leg ; this is very 
neatly ornamented, and arranged with loops which close 
the mouth, secured by a padlock. Very large sacks, 
capable of containing three hundred pounds of corn, are 
made in the same manner by drawing off entire the skins 
of the larger antelopes — that of the tetel is considered 
the most valuable for this purpose. The hide of the wild 
ass is the finest of all leather, and is so close in the grain 
that before tanning, when dry and hardened in the sun, 
it resembles horn in transparency. I have made excellent 
mocassins with this skin, which are admirable if kept 
wetted. 

"August 28. — Sofi being upon the frontier, the laws 
are merely nominal ; accordingly there is an interesting 
mixture in the society. Should any man commit a crime 
in Abyssinia, he takes refuge over the border; thus 
criminals of the blackest character are at large. One 
fellow who has paid us daily visits killed his brother with 



CHAP. VIII.] NATIVE BASKETS AND MATTING. 125 

a knife a few months since. I have exchided this gentle- 
man from the select circle of our acquaintance. 

" The Arab women are ver}^ clever in basket-work and 
matting — they carry their milk in baskets that are so 
closely fitted as to be completely water-tight; these are 
made of the leaves of the dome palm, shred into fine 
strips. In addition to the coarse matting required for 
their tents, they manufacture very fine sleeping mats, 
curiously arranged in various coloured patterns ; these are 
to cover the angareps, or native bedsteads, which are 
simple frameworks upon legs, covered with a network of 
raw hide worked in a soft state, after which it hardens to 
the tightness of a drum when thoroughly dry. No bed 
is more comfortable for a warm climate than a native 
angarep with a simple mat covering; it is beautifully 
elastic, and is always cool, as free ventilation is permitted 
from below. I have employed the Arab women to make 
me a hunting-cap of the basket-work of dome palm, to 
my old pattern. 

''August 28. — I have been busily employed in putting 
new soles to my shoes, having cut up the leather cover of 
a gun-case for material. No person can walk barefooted 
in this country, as the grass is armed with thorns. A 
peculiar species, that resembles a vetch, bears a circular 
pod as large as a horse-bean; the exterior of the pod is 
armed with long and sharp spikes like the head of an 
ancient mace ; these pods when ripe are exceedingly hard, 
and falling to the ground in great numbers, the spikes 
will pierce the sole of any shoe unless of a stout 
substance. 

''August ^P. — riorian is very ill with fever. The 
mosquitoes are so troublesome that the Arabs cannot 
sleep in their huts, but are forced to arrange platforms 
about six feet high, upon which the whole family rest 
until they are awakened by a sudden thunderstorm, and 
are compelled to rush into their huts ; — this has been the 
case nightly for some time past. 

" I find that the whole village has been trying on my 
new hunting-cap, that an Arab woman has just com- 
pleted ; this was brought to me to-day, thick with butter 



126 BACHEET IS TOO ATTENTIVE. [chap. viii. 

and dirt from their greasy pates. This is a trifle : yester- 
day Florian was ill and required some tea ; his servant 
tried the degree of heat by plunging his dirty black finger 
to the bottom. 

" Shortly after our wild Arab lad, Bacheet, was engaged, 
we drilled him as table servant. The flies were very 
troublesome, and continually committed suicide by drown- 
ing themselves in the tea. One morning during breakfast 
there were many cases of felo de se, or ' temporary 
insanity/ and my wife's tea-cup was full of victims ; 
Bacheet, wishing to be attentive, picked out the bodies 
with his finger and thumb ! — ' Now, my good fellow, 
Bacheet,' I exclaimed, ' you really must not put your 
dirty fingers in the tea : you should take them out with 
the tea-spoon. Look here,' and I performed the operation, 
and safely landed several flies that were still kicking. 
' But mind, Bacheet,' I continued, ' that you wipe the tea- 
spoon first, to be sure that it is clean ! ' On the following 
morning at breakfast we covered up the cups with saucers 
to prevent accidents ; but to our astonishment Bacheet, 
who was in waiting, suddenly took a tea-spoon from the 
table, wiped it carefully with a corner of the table- 
cloth, and stooping down beneath the bed, most carefully 
saved from drowning, with the tea-spoon, several flies 
that were in the last extremity within a vessel by no 
means adapted for a spoon. Perfectly satisfied with the 
result, he carefully rewiped the tea-spoon upon the table- 
cloth, and replaced it in its proper position. ' Oh 
Bacheet ! Bacheet ! you ignoramus, you extraordinary and 
impossible animal ! ' However, there was no help for it — 
the boy thought he was doing the right thing exactly. 

" September 1. — The animals are worried almost to death 
by the countless flies, especially by that species that 
drives the camels from the country. This peculiar fly 
is about the size of a wasp, with an orange-coloured body, 
with black and white rings ; the proboscis is terrific ; it 
is double, and appears to be disproportioned, being two- 
thirds the length of the entire insect. When this fly 
attacks an animal, or man, it pierces the skin instantane- 
ously, like the prick of a red-hot needle driven deep into 





THK SkROO'l' \'\.\ 



•■ And It ^liall come In p;is.s in iliaL day. tlial tlic Lord sliall 
hiss for the fly that is in tlie uttermost pari of the rivers of Kgypt.'' — 

IsAiAii vii. iX. 



CHAP. VIII.] PREFER THE HOT SEASON. 127 

the flesh, at the same time the insect exerts every muscle 
of its body by buzzing with its wings as it buries the in- 
strument to its greatest depth. The blood starts from the 
wound immediately, and continues to flow for a considerable 
time ; this is an attraction to other flies in oreat numbers, 
many of which would lay their eggs upon the wound. 

" I much prefer the intense heat of summer to the damp 
of the rainy season, which breeds all kinds of vermin. 
During the hot season the nights are cool and delightful, 
there is not one drop of dew, and we live entirely in the 
open air beneath the shade of a tree in the day, and under 
a roof of glittering stars at night. The guns never rust, 
although lying upon the ground, and we are as independent 
as the antelopes of the desert, any bush affording a home 
within its limit of shadow. During the rainy season 
hunting and travelling would be equally impossible ; the 
rifles would constantly miss fire. The mud is in most 
places knee-deep, and a malignant fever would shortly 
settle the hunter. The rains cease early in September, 
after which we are to expect a complete vapour-bath 
until the end of October, by which time the fiery sun will 
have evaporated the moisture from the sodden earth ; that 
interval will be the most unhealthy season. 

" As this fertile country can depend upon three months' 
periodical rain, from the middle of June until September 
there is no reason for unproductiveness ; it would produce 
a large revenue if in industrious hands. 

" September 2. — For many days past we have seen large 
herds of giraffes and many antelopes on the opposite side 
of the river, about two miles distant, on the borders of the 
Atbara, into which valley the giraftes apparently dared 
not descend, but remained on the table land, although the 
antelopes appeared to prefer the harder soil of the valley 
slopes. This day a herd of twenty- eight girafies tantalized 
me by descending a short distance below the level flats, 
and I was tempted at all hazards across the river. Accord- 
ingly preparations were immediately made for a start. 
The sheik of the village and several of the Arabs were 
hippopotami hunters by profession ; these fellows could 
swim like otters, and, despite the crocodiles, they seemed 



128 THE IMPROMPTU RAFT. [chap. viii. 

as mucli at Lome in the water as on land. We prepared 
an impromptu raft. My angarep (bedstead) was quickly 
inverted ; six water-skins were inflated, and lashed, three 
on either side. A shallow packing-case, lined with tin, 
containing my gun, was fastened in the centre of the 
angarep, and two tow-lines were attached to the front part 
of the raft, by which swimmers were to draw it across the 
river. Two men were to hang on behind, and, if possible, 
keep it straight in the rapid current. 

" The Arabs were full of mettle, as their minds were 
fixed upon giraffe venison. A number of people, including 
my wife, climbed upon the mosquito platforms, to obtain 
a good view of the projected hunt, and we quickly carried 
our raft to the edge of the river. There was not much 
delay in the launch. I stepped carefully into my cof&n- 
shaped case, and squatted down, with a rifle on either side, 
and my ammunition at the bottom of the tin-lined water- 
proof case ; thus, in case of an upset, I was ready for a 
swim. Off we A^ent ! The current, running at nearly five 
miles an hour, carried us away at a great pace, and the 
whirlpools caused us much trouble, as we several times 
waltzed round when we should have preferred a straight 
course, but the towing swimmers being well mounted 
upon logs of light ambatch-wood, swam across in fine 
style, and after some difiiculty we arrived at the opposite 
bank, and scrambled through thick bushes, upon our hands 
and knees, to the summit. 

" For about two miles' breadth on this side of the river 
the valley is rough broken ground, full of gullies and 
ravines sixty or seventy feet deep, beds of torrents, bare 
sandstone rocks, bushy crags, fine grassy knolls, and long 
strips of mimosa covert, forming a most perfect locality for 
g hooting. 

" I had observed by the telescope that the giraffes were 
standing as usual upon an elevated position, from whence 
they could keep a good look-out. I knew it v/ould be 
useless to ascend the slope direct, as their long necks give 
these animals an advantage similar to that of the man 
at the mast-head ; therefore, although we had the wind in 
our favour, we should have been observed. I therefore 



CHAP. VIII.] STALKING GIRAFFES. 129 

determined to make a great circuit of about five miles, and 
thus to approach them from above, with the advantage 
of the broken ground tor stalking. It was the perfection 
of uneven country: by clambering broken cliffs, wading 
shoulder-deep through muddy gullies, sliding down the 
steep ravines, and winding through narrow bottoms of 
high grass and mimosas for about two hours, during which 
we disturbed many superb nellut {Ant. strepsiceros) and 
tetel {Ant. Buhalis), we at length arrived at the point 
of the high table land upon the verge of which I had 
first noticed the giraffes with the telescope. Almost 
immediately I distinguished the tall neck of one of these 
splendid animals about half a mile distant upon my left, a 
little below the table land ; it was feeding on the bashes, 
and I quickly discovered several others near the leader of 
the herd. I was not far enough advanced in the circuit 
that I had intended to bring me exactly above them, 
therefore I turned sharp to my right, intending to make 
a short half circle, and to arrive on the leeward side of 
the herd, as I was now to windward : this I fortunately 
completed, but I had marked a thick bush as my point of 
cover, and upon arrival I found that the herd had fed 
down wind, and that I was within two hundred yards 
of the great bull sentinel that, having moved from his 
former position, was now standing directly before me. I 
lay down quietly behind the bush with my two followers, 
and anxiously watched the great leader, momentarily 
expecting that it would get my wind. It was shortly 
joined by two others, and I perceived the heads of several 
giraffes lower down the incline, that were now feeding on 
their way to the higher ground. The seroot fly was 
teasing them, and I remarked that several birds were 
fluttering about their heads, sometimes perching upon 
their noses and catching the fly that attacked their nos- 
trils, while the giraffes appeared relieved by their atten- 
tions : these were a peculiar species of bird that attacks 
the domestic animals, and not only relieves them of ver- 
min, but eats into the tiesh, and establishes dang(U'ous 
sores. A puff of wind now gently fanned the back of my 
neck; it was cool and delightful, but no sooner did I feel 

K 



130 THE FIRST RUSH OF THE HERD. [chap. viii. 

the refreshing breeze than I knew it would convey our 
scent direct to the giraffes. A few seconds afterwards, the 
three grand obelisks threw their heads still higher in the 
air, and fixing their great black eyes upon the spot from 
which the danger came, they remained as motionless as 
though carved from stone. From their great height they 
could see over the bush behind which we w^ere lying 
at some paces distant, and although I do not think they 
could distinguish us to be men, they could see enough to 
convince them of hidden enemies. 

"The attitude of fixed attention and surprise of the 
three giraffes was sufficient warning for the rest of the 
herd, who immediately filed up from the lower ground, 
and joined their comrades. All now halted, and gazed 
stedfastly in our direction, forming a superb tableau ; their 
beautiful mottled skins glancing like the summer coat of 
a thoroughbred horse, the orange-coloured statues stand- 
ing out in high relief from a background of dark-green 
mimosas. 

" This beautiful picture soon changed ; I knew that my 
chance of a close shot was hopeless, as they would pre- 
sently make a rush, and be off ; thus 1 determined to get 
the first start. 1 had previously studied the ground, and I 
concluded that they would push forward at right angles 
with my position, as they had thus ascended the hill, and 
that, on reaching the higher ground, they would turn to 
the right, in order to reach an immense tract of high grass, 
as level as a billiard-table, from which no danger could 
approach them unobserved. 

" I accordingly with a gentle movement of my hand 
directed my people to follow me, and I made a sudden 
rush forward at full speed. Off went the herd; sham- 
bling along at a tremendous pace, whisking their long 
tails above their hind quarters, and taking exactly the 
direction 1 had anticipated, they offered me a shoulder 
shot at a little within two hundred yards' distance. Un- 
fortunately, 1 fell into a deep hole concealed by the high 
grass, and by the time that 1 resumed the hunt they had 
increased their distance, but 1 observed the leader turned 
sharp to the right, through some low mimosa bush, to 




Fiusr RUSH ()!•■ riir; ciraikks. 



CHAP. VIII.] DEATH OF THh GIRAFFES. 131 

make direct for the open table laud. I made a short cut 
obliquely at my best speed, and only halted when I saw 
that I should lose ground by altering my position. Stop- 
ping short, I was exactly opposite the herd as they hied 
by me at right angles in full speed, within about a 
hundred and eighty yards. I had my old Ceylon No. 10 
double ritle, and I took a steady shot at a large dark- 
coloured bull : the satisfactory sound of the ball upon his 
hide was followed almost immediately by his blundering 
forward for about twenty yards, and falling heavily in the 
low bush. I heard the crack of the ball of my left-hand 
barrel upon another line beast, but no eh'ects followed. 
Bacheet quickly gave me the single 2-ounce Manton rifle, 
and I singled out a fine dark-coloured bull, who fell on his 
knees to the shot, but recovering, hobbled oft disabled, 
apart from the herd, with a foreleg broken just below the 
shoulder. Eeloading immediately, I ran up to the spot, 
where I found ray first giraffe lying dead, with the ball 
clean through both shoulders : the second was standing 
about one hundred paces distant; upon my approach 
he attempted to move, but immediately fell, and was 
despatched by my eager Arabs. I followed the herd for 
about a mile to no purpose, through deep clammy ground 
and high grass, and I returned to our game. 

" These were my first girafi'es, and I admired them as 
they lay before me with a hunter's pride and satisfaction, 
but mingled with a feeling of pity for such beautiful and 
utterly helpless creatures. The giraffe, although from 
sixteen to twenty feet in height, is perfectly defenceless, 
and can only trust to the swiftness of its pace, and the 
extraordinary power of vision, for its means of protection. 
The eye of this animal is the most beautiful exaggeration 
of that of the gazelle, while the colour of the reddish- 
orange hide, mottled with darker spots, changes the tints 
of the skin with the differing rays of light, according to 
the muscular movement of the body. No one who has 
merely seen the giraffe in a cold climate can form the 
least idea of its beauty in its native land. By the time 
that we had skinned one of the animals, it was nearly 
six o'clock, and it was necessary to hurry forward to reach 

k2 



132 PASSAGE OF THE RIVER. [chap. viii. 

the river before night ; we therefore arranged some thorny 
boughs over the bodies, to which we intended to return on 
the following morning. 

" When about half-way to the river, as we were passing 
through grass about four feet high, three tetel bounded 
from a ravine, and, passing directly before us, gave me 
a splendid shot at about sixty yards. The Ceylon ]^o. 10 
struck the foremost through the shoulder, and it fell dead 
after running a few yards. This was also my first tetel 
{Antelopus Bubalis) ; it was in splendid condition, the red 
coat was like satin, and the animal would weigh about five 
hundred pounds live weight. 

"I had made very successful shots, having bagged 
three out of four large game ; this perfectly delighted 
the Arabs, and was very satisfactory to myself, as I was 
quite aware that my men would be only too willing to 
accompany me upon future excursions. 

" It was quite dark before we reached the river ; we had 
been much delayed by repeated falls into deep holes, and 
over hidden stones ; thus I was well satisfied to find my- 
self once more at home after having crossed the river, in 
pitchy darkness, in a similar manner as before. Every 
person in the village had had a good view of the stalk ; 
therefore, as two giraffes had been seen to fall, the Arabs 
were waiting on the bank in expectation of meat. 

" September 3. — This morning I crossed the river with 
about twenty men, some swimming with inflated skins, 
and others supported by logs of ambatch. A number of 
swimmers were holding on to a pole to which four inflated 
girbas were attached ; this is an excellent plan for assisting 
soldiers to cross a river, as they can land together in 
parties, instead of singly, with their guns dry, should the 
opposite bank be occupied by an enemy. I sat in my 
gun-case, with the two rifles that I used yesterday, in 
addition to the little Fletcher ; heaps of clothes and san- 
dals belonging to the swimmers formed my cargo ; while, 
in case of accident, I had taken off my belt and shoes, 
and tied my ammunition within an inflated skin. Neptune 
in his car drawn by dolphins was not more completely at 
home than I in my gun-case, towed by my fish-like hippo- 



CHAP. VIII.] THE GIRAFFE SENTRY. \ 33 

potami hunters. After pirouetting in several strong whirl- 
pools, during which time a crowd of women on the Sofi 
side of the river were screaming to Allah and the Prophet 
to protect us from crocodiles, we at length arrived. 

" We took a direct course towards the animals I had 
shot on the previous evening, meeting with no game ex- 
cept a large troop of dog-faced baboons {Cynocephali), until 
we reached the body of the tetel (Antelopus Buhalis), 
which lay undisturbed ; leaving people to flay it carefully, 
so that the skin should serve as a water or corn sack, 
we continued our path towards the dead giraffes. 

" I had not proceeded far, before I saw, at about a mile 
distant, a motionless figure, as though carved from red 
granite ; this I felt sure was a giraffe acting as sentry for 
another party that was not yet in view ; I therefore sent 
my men on towards the dead giraffes, while, accompanied 
by Florian's black servant Eicharn,* who w^as a good 
sportsman, and a couple of additional men, I endeavoured 
to stalk the giraffe. It was impossible to obtain a favour- 
able wind, without exposing ourselves upon flat ground, 
where we should have been immediately perceived; I 
therefore arranged that my men should make a long circuit 
and drive the giraffe, while I would endeavour to intercept 
it. This plan failed ; but shortly after the attempt, I 
observed a herd of about a hundred of these splendid 
creatures, browsing on the mimosas about half a mile 
distant. For upwards of three hours I employed every 
artifice to obtain a shot, but to no purpose, as upon my 
approach to within a quarter of a mile, they invariably 
chose open ground, leaving a sentry posted behind the 
herd, while two or three kept a look-out well in advance. 
No animal is so difficult to approach as the giraffe ; how- 
ever, by great palience and caution, I succeeded in reach- 
ing a long and deep ravine, by which I hoped to arrive 
within a close shot, as many of the herd were standing 
upon the level table-ground, from which this natural 
trench suddenly descended. I believe I should have 

* This faithful black, a native of the White Nile regions, suhsequently 
became my servant, and for four years accompanied us honestly and 
courageously through all our difficulties to the Albert N'yanza. 



134 A DIFFICULT STALK. [chap. viii. 

arrived within fifty yards of the herd by this admirable 
approach, had it not been for the unlucky chance that 
brought me vis-a-vis with two tetel, that by galloping off 
attracted the attention of the giraffes. To add to my mis- 
fortune, after a long and tedious crawl on hands and knees 
up the narrow and steep extremity of the gully, just as I 
raised my head above the edge of the table land, expecting 
to see the giraffes within fifty paces, I found three gazelles 
feeding within ten yards of me, while three magnificent 
giraffes were standing about a hundred and fifty yards 
distant. 

"Off bounded the gazelles the instant that we were 
perceived; they of course gave the alarm immediately, 
and away went the giraffes ; but I took a quick shot at the 
great leader as he turned to the right, and he staggered a 
few paces and fell headlong into the bush. Hurrah for 
the Ceylon No. 10 ! — however, neither the second barrel, 
nor a shot with the Manton 2-ounce, produced any effect. 
It was a glorious sight to see the herd of upwards of a 
hundred of these superb animals close up at the alarm of 
the shots, and pelt away in a dense body through the dark 
green mimosa bush that hardly reached to their shoulders ; 
but pursuit was useless. My giraffe was not quite dead, 
and, the throat having been cut by the Arabs and Eicharn, 
we attempted to flay our game ; this was simply impossible. 
The seroot fly was in swarms about the carcase, thousands 
were buzzing about our ears and biting like bull-dogs : the 
blood was streaming from our necks, and, as I wore no 
sleeves, my naked arms suffered terribly. I never saw 
such an extraordinary sight ; although we had killed our 
giraffe, we could not take possession; it was no wonder 
that camels and all domestic animals were killed by this 
horrible plague, the only wonder was the possibility of 
wild animals resisting the attack. The long tails of the 
giraffes are admirable fly-whippers, but they would be 
of little service against such a determined and blood- 
thirsty enemy as the seroot. They were now like a 
swarm of bees, and we immediately made war upon the 
scourge, by lighting several tires within a few feet to wind- 
ward of the giraffe ; when the sticks blazed briskly, we 



CHAP. VIII.] GIRAFFE STEAKS. 135 

piled green grass upon the tops, and quickly produced a 
smoke that vanquished the enemy. 

" It was now about 3 p.m. and intensely hot ; I had 
been in constant exercise since 6 a.m., therefore I deter- 
mined upon luncheon under the shade of a welcome 
mimosa, upon which I had already hung my water-skin 
to cooL We cut some long thin strips of flesh from the 
giraffe, and lighted a lire of dry babanoose wood expressly 
for cooking. This species of wood is exceedingly inflam- 
mable, and burns like a torch; it is intensely hard, and 
in colour and grain it is similar to lignum vitse. The 
festoons of girafl'e flesh were hung upon forked sticks, 
driven into the ground to leeward of the fire, Avhile others 
were simply thrown upon the embers by my men, w^ho, 
while the food was roasting, employed themselves in skin- 
ning the animal, and in eating the flesh raw. The meat 
was quickly roasted, and w-as the best I have ever tasted, 
fully corroborating the praises I had frequently heard of 
giraffe meat from the Arab hunters. It would be natural 
to suppose that the long legs of this animal would furnish 
the perfection of marrow bones, but these are a disappoint- 
ment, as the bones of the giraffe are solid, like those of the 
elephant and hippopotamus ; the long tendons of the legs 
are exceedingly prized by the Arabs in lieu of thread for 
sewing leather, also for guitar strings. 

" After luncheon, I took my little Fletcher rifle, and 
strolled down to the spot from whence I had fired the 
shot, as I wdshed to measure the distance, but no sooner 
had I arrived at the place than I observed at about a 
quarter of a mile below me, in the valley, a fine tetel ; it 
was standing on the summit of one of the numerous 
knolls, evidently driven from the high grass by the flies. 
I stalked it very carefully until I arrived within about a 
hundred yards, and just as I reached the stem of a tree 
that I had resolved upon as my covering-point, the tetel 
got my wind, and immediately bounded off, receiving the 
bullet in the right hip at the same moment. After a few 
bounds it fell, and I ran forward to secure it, but it sud- 
denly sprang to its feet, and went off at a surprising rate 
upon three legs. I believed I missed it, as I fired a quick 



136 FLOATING MEAT ACROSS A RIVER. [chap. viii. 

shot just as it disappeared in the thick bushes. Whistling 
for my people, I was now joined by Bacheet and Eicharn, 
my other men remaining with the giraffe. For about four 
miles we followed on the track through the broken valley 
of the Atbara, during which we several times disturbed 
the t^tei, but could not obtain a good shot, on account of 
the high grass and thick bushes. Several times I tried a 
snap shot, as for a moment I caught sight of its red hide 
galloping through the bush, but as it ran down wind I had 
no chance of getting close to my game. At length, after 
following rapidly down a grassy ravine, I presently heard 
it pelting through the bushes ; the ravine made a bend to 
the right, therefore, by taking a short cut, I arrived just in 
time to catch sight of the tetel as it passed over an open 
space below me ; this time the little Fletcher bagged him. 
On examination I found that I had struck it four times. 
I had fired five shots, but as three of those had been fired 
almost at random, when the animal was in full speed 
through the bushes, one had missed, and the others were 
badly placed. 

" Fortunately this long hunt had been in the direction 
of Sofi, to which we were near; still more fortunately, 
after we had marked the spot, we shortly met my first 
party of Arabs returning towards the village, heavily 
laden with giraffe's flesh, and the hide of one that 1 had 
killed yesterday. It appeared that during the night, lions 
and hyaenas had completely devoured one of the girafles, 
not even leaving a vestige of skin or bone, but the imme- 
diate neighbourhood of the spot where it lay had been 
trampled into mud by the savage crowd who had left their 
footprints as witnesses to the robbery ; the hide and bones 
had evidently been dragged away piecemeal. 

" On arrival at the river we were all busy in preparing 
for the passage with so large a quantity of meat. The 
water-skins for the raft were quickly inflated, and 1 learnt 
from the Arabs an excellent contrivance for carrying a 
quantity of flesh across a river, without its becoming 
sodden. The skin of the tetel w^as nearly as capacious as 
that of an Alderney cow ; this had been drawn off in the 
usual manner, so as to form a sack. The Arabs imme- 



cnAP. VIII.] FLOATING APPARATUS. 137 

diately proceeded to tie up the neck like the moath of a 
bag, and to secure the apertures at the knees in like 
manner ; when this operation was concluded, the skin 
became an immense sack, the mouth being at the aperture 
left at the hind-quarters. The No. 10 bullet had gone 
completely through the shoulders of the tetel, thus the 
two holes in the hide required stopping ; this was dexter- 
ously performed by inserting a stone into either hole, of a 
size so much larger than the aperture, that it was impos- 
sible to squeeze them through. These stones were inserted 
from the inside of the sack ; they w^ere then grasped by 
the hand from the outside, and pulled forward, while a 
tight ligature w^as made behind each stone, which effec- 
tually stopped the holes. The skin of the tetel w^as thus 
converted into a waterproof bag, into which was packed 
a quantity of flesh sufficient to fill two-thirds of its capa- 
city ; the edges of the mouth w^ere then carefully drawn 
together, and secured by tying. Thus carefully packed, 
one of the foreleg ligatures was untied, and the AA^hole 
skin was inflated by blowing through the tube formed by 
the skin of the limb ; the inflation completed, this was 
suddenly twisted round and tied. The skin thus filled 
looked like an exaggerated water-skin ; the power of flota- 
tion was so great, that about a dozen men hung on to the 
legs of the tetel, and to each other's shoulders, when we 
launched it in the river. This plan is well worthy of the 
attention of military men ; troops, when on service, are 
seldom without bullocks ; in the absence of boats or rafts, 
not only can the men be thus safely conveyed across the 
river, but the anmmnition can be packed within the skins, 
wrapped up in straw, and will be kept perfectly dry. 

" The Arabs were much afraid of crocodiles this night, 
as it was perfectly dark when w^e had completed our pre- 
parations, and they feared that the smell of so large a 
quantity of raw flesh, mo-re especially the hide of the 
giraffe, which must be towed, w^ould attract these beasts 
to the party ; accordingly I fired several shots to alarm 
them, and the men plunged into the river, amidst the 
usual yelling of the women on the opposite side. Fires 
had been lighted to direct us, and aU passed safely across. 



138 LIONS BEVOTJR TEE GIRAFFE. [chap. viii. 

" The sport upon the Abyssinian side of the river had 
been most satisfactory, and I resolved upon the first 
opportunity to change my quarters, and to form an en- 
campment upon that bank of the Atbara until the proper 
season should arrive for travelling. I had killed three 
giraffes and two tetel in only two excursions. Florian, 
w^ho was ill, had not been able to accompany me; although 
he had been shooting in this neighbourhood for tw^o years 
he had never killed a giraffe. This want of success was 
owing to the inferiority of his weapons, that were not 
adapted to correct shooting at a range exceeding a 
hundred yards. 

"On the following morning about fifty Arabs crossed 
the river with the intention of bringing the flesh of the 
giraffe, but they returned crestfallen in the evening, as 
again the lions and hyaenas had been before them, and 
nothing was left. I therefore resolved not to shoot again 
until 1 should be settled in my new camp on the other 
side of the river, as it was a wasteful expenditure of 
these beautiful animals unless the flesh could be pre- 
served. 

" The rainy season was drawing to a close, and I longed 
to quit the dulness of Soti. 

'' Se;ptemleT 12. — The river has fallen nearly eighteen 
feet, as the amount of rain has much decreased during 
the last week. Immense crocodiles are now to be seen 
daily, basking upon the muddy banks. One monster in 
particular, who is well known to the Arabs as having 
devoured a woman a few months ago, invariably sleeps 
upon a small island up the river. 

" This evening I counted seven elephants on the east 
side of the river on the table lands. 

" To-day the Arabs kept one of their holy feasts ; 
accordingly, a sheep was slaughtered as a sacrifice, with 
an accompaniment of music and singing, i.e. howling to 
several guitars. 

" The Arab system of an offering is peculiar. Should 
a friend be dangerously ill, or rain be demanded, or should 
any calamity befall them, they slaughter an ox if they 
possess it, or a sheep or goat in the abs-^nce of a larger 



CHAP. VIII.] ARAB MUSIC. 139 

animal, but the owner of the beast sells the meat in small 
portions 10 the assembled party, and the whole affair of 
sacrifice resolves itself into a feast; thus having filled 
themselves with good meat, they feel satisfied that they 
have made a religious sacrifice, and they expect the 
benelicial results. The guitar music and singing that 
attend the occasion are simply abominable. Music, 
although beloved like dancing by both the savage and 
civilized, varies in character according to the civilization 
of the race ; that which is agreeable to the uneducated 
ear is discord to the refined nerves of the educated. The 
untuned ear of the savage can no more enjoy the tones of 
civilized music than his palate would relish the elaborate 
dishes of a French chef de cuisine. As the stomach of 
the Arab prefers the raw meat and reeking liver taken hot 
from the animal, so does his ear prefer his equally coarse 
and discordant music to all other. The guitar most 
common is made of either the shell of a large gourd, or 
that of a turtle ; over this is stretched an untanned skin, 
that of a large fish being preferred ; through this two 
sticks are -fixed about two feet three inches in length ; the 
ends of these are fastened to a cross piece upon which are 
secured the strings; these are stretched over a bridge 
similar to those of a violin, and are either tightened or 
relaxed by rings of waxed rag fastened upon the cross 
piece — these rings are turned by the hand, and retain 
their position in spite of the strain upon the strings. 
Nothing delights an Arab more than to sit idly in -his hut 
and strum this wretched instrument from morning until 
night." 

I was thoroughly tired of Sofi, and I determined to 
move my party across the river to camp on the unin- 
habited side ; the rains had almost ceased, therefore we 
should be able to live in the tent at night, and to form a 
shady nook beneath some mimosas by day ; accordingly 
we busily prepared for a move. 



CHAPTEE IX. 

FORM A RAFT WITH THE SPONGING BATH. 

On the 15t]i September the entire male population of Sofi 
turned out to assist us in crossing the river, as I had 
promised them a certain sum should the move be effected 
without the loss or destruction of baggage. I had arranged 
a very superior raft to that I had formerly used, as I now 
had eight inflated skins attached to the bedstead, upon 
which I lashed our large circular sponging bath, which, 
being three feet eight inches in diameter, and of the best 
description, would be perfectly safe for my wife, and dry 
and commodious for the luggage. In a very short time 
the whole of our effects were carried to the water's edge, 
and the passage of the river commenced. The rifles were 
the first to cross with Bacheet, while the water-tight iron 
box that contained the gunpowder was towed like a 
pinnace behind the raft. Four hippopotami hunters were 
harnessed as tug steamers, while a change of swimmers 
waited to relieve them every alternate voyage. The raft 
answered admirably, and would easily support about three 
hundred pounds. The power of flotation of the sponging 
bath alone I had proved would support a hundred and 
ninety pounds, thus the only danger in crossing was the 
chance of a crocodile making a dash either at the inflated 
skins in mistake for the body of a man, or at the swimmers 
themselves. All the usual necessaries were safely tran- 
sported, with the tents and personal baggage, before I 
crossed myself, with a number of Arabs. We quickly 
cleared the grass from the hard pebbly soil of a beautiful 
plateau on the summit of a craggy sandstone cliff, about 
eighty feet above the river ; here we pitched tlie tents, 
close to some mimosas of dense foliage, and all being in 
order, I went down to the river to receive the next arrival. 
My wife now came across the feny, and so perfectly had 



CHAP. IX.] JCHMET IS TEMPTED BY SATAK. 141 

this means of transport succeeded, that by the evening, 
the whole of our stores and baggage had been delivered 
without the slightest damage, with the exception of a very 
heavy load of corn, that had caused the sponging bath to 
ship a sea during a strong squall of wind. The only 
person who had shown the least nervousness in trusting 
his precious body to my ferry-boat was Mahomet the 
dragoman, who, having been simply accustomed to the 
grand vessels of the Nile, was not prepared to risk him- 
self in a voyage across the Atbara in a sponging bath. 
He put off the desperate attempt until the last moment, 
when every other person of my party had crossed ; I 
believe he hoped that a wreck would take place before his 
turn should arrive, and thus spare him the painful neces- 
sity, but when at length the awful moment arrived, he 
was assisted carefully into the bath by his servant Achmet 
and a number of Arabs, all of whom were delighted at 
his imbecility. Perched nervously in the centre of the 
bath, and holding on tight by either side, he was towed 
across with his travelling bag of clothes, while Achmet 
remained in charge of his best clothes and sundry other 
personal effects, that were to form the last cargo across 
the ferry. It appeared that Achmet, the dearly beloved 
and affectionate relative of Mahomet, who had engaged to 
serve him for simple love instead of money, was suddenly 
tempted by Satan, and seeing that Mahomet and the 
entire party were divided from him and the property in 
his charge, by a river two hundred yards wide, about 
forty feet deep, with a powerful current, he made up his 
mind to bolt with the valuables ; therefore while Mahomet, 
in a nervous state in the ferry-bath, was being towed 
towards the east, Achmet turned in another direction and 
fled towards the west. Mahomet having been much 
frightened by the nautical effort he had been forced to 
make, was in an exceedingly bad temper upon the arrival 
on the opposite bank, and having at length succeeded in 
climbing up the steep ascent, in shoes that were about 
four sizes too large for him, he arrived on the lofty plateau 
of our camp, and doubtless would like ourselves have 
been charmed with the view of the noble river rnshincr 



1 42 MAHOMET'S RELATIVE ABSCONDS. [chap. ix. 

between tlie cliffs of white sandstone, had he only seen 
Achmet his fond relative with his effects on the opposite 
bank. Mahomet strained his eyes, but the blank was no 
optical delusion ; neither Achmet nor his effects were 
there. The Arabs, who hated the unfortunate Mahomet 
for his general overbearing conduct, now comforted him 
with the suggestion that Achmet had run away, and that 
his only chance was to re-cross the river and give chase. 
Mahomet would not have ventured upon another voyage 
to the other side and back again, for the world, and as to 
giving chase in boots (highlows) four sizes too big, and 
without strings, that would have been as absurd as to 
employ a donkey to catch a horse. Mahomet could do 
nothing but rush frantically to the very edge of the cliff, 
and scream and gesticulate to a crowd of Arab women 
who had passed the day beneath the shady trees by the 
Faky's grave, watching our passage of the Atbara. Beat- 
ing his own head and tearing his hair were always the 
safety valves of Mahomet's rage, but as hair is not of that 
mushroom growth that reappears in a night, he had 
patches upon his cranium as bald as a pumpkin shell, 
from the constant plucking, attendant upon losses of 
temper ; he now not only tore a few extra locks from his 
head, but he shouted out a tirade of abuse towards the 
far-distant Achmet, calling him a " son of a dog," cursiDg 
his father, and paying a few compliments to the memory 
of his mother, which if only half were founded upon fact 
were sad blots upon the morality of the family to which 
Mahomet himself belonged, through his close relationship 
to Achmet, whom he had declared to be his mother's 
brother's cousin's sister's mother's son. 

A heavy shower of rain fell shortly after our camp 
was completed, when fortunately the baggage was under 
cover ; this proved to be the last rain of the season, and 
from that moment the burning sun ruled the sodden 
country, and rapidly dried up not only the soil but all 
vegetation. The grass within a few days of the cessa- 
tion of the rain assumed a tinge of yellow, and by the end 
of October there was not a green spot to relieve the eye 
from the golden blaze of the landscape, except the patches 



CHAP. IX.] THE SEROOr FLY DISAPPEARS. 143 

of grass and reeds that sprang from the mud banks of the 
retiring river. The climate was exceedingly unhealthy, 
but we were fortunately exceptions to the general rule, 
and although the inhabitants of Soli were all sufferers, our 
camp had no invalids, with the exception of Mahomet, 
who had upon one occasion so gorged himself with half- 
putrid fish, that he nearly died in consequence. It would 
be impossible to commence our explorations in the Base 
until the grass should be sufficiently dry to burn; there 
were two varieties : that upon the slopes and hollows of 
the stony soil of the Atbara valley had been a pest ever 
since it had ripened ; as the head formed three barbed 
darts, these detached themselves from the plant with 
such facility, that the slightest touch was sufficient to 
dislodge them ; they immediately pierced the clothes, 
from which they could not be withdrawn, as the barbed 
heads broke off and remained. It was simply impossible 
to walk in this grass as it became ripe, without special 
protection ; I accordingly tanned some gazelle skins, with 
which my wife constructed stocking gaiters, to be drawn 
over the foot and tied above and below the knee; thus 
fortified I could defy the grass, and indulge in shooting 
and exploring the neighbourhood until the season should 
arrive for firing the country. The high grass upon the 
table lands, although yellow, would not be sufficiently in- 
flammable until the end of November. 

The numerous watercourses that drained the table 
lands during the rainy season were now dry. No sooner 
had the grass turned yellow, than the pest of the country, 
the seroot fly, disappeared; thus the presence of this 
insect may be dated from about 10th July to 10th 
October. As the fly vanished, the giraffes also left the 
neighbourhood. By a few days' exploration, I found that 
the point of land from the junction of the Settite river 
with the Atbara, formed a narrow peninsula which was no 
wider than eight miles across from our encampment : thus 
the herds of game retreating from the south before the 
attacks of the seroot, found themselves driven into a cul- 
de-sac upon the strip of land between the broad and 
deep rivers the Settite and Atbara, which in the rainy 



144 THE '' TILL J' [chap. ix. 

season they dared not cross. All this country being 
uninhabited, there were several varieties of game at all 
seasons, but the three rainy months insure a good supply 
of elephants and giraffes ; these retreat about thirty miles 
farther south, when permitted by the cessation of the flies 
to return to their favourite haunts. 

My camp was in a very commanding position, as it was 
protected in front by the Atbara, and on the left by a 
perpendicular ravine about eighty feet deep, at the bottom 
of which flowed the rivulet called by the Arabs the 
"Till;" this joined the river immediately below our 
plateau. On our right was a steep and rugged incline 
covered with rocks of the whitest sandstone, through 
which ran veins of rich iron ore from four to five feet in 
width. I found a considerable quantity of fossil wood in 
the sandstone, and I had previously discovered on the Sofi 
side of the river, the fossil stem of a tree about twelve 
feet long ; the grain appeared to be exceedingly close, but 
I could not determine the class to which the tree had 
belonged. 

As the Atbara had fallen to the level of the small 
tributary, the Till, that stream was nearly exhausted, and 
the fish that inhabited its deep and shady waters during 
the rainy season were now fast retiring to the parent 
river. At the mouth of the stream were a number of 
rocks, that, as the water of the Atbara retreated, daily 
increased in size ; these were evidently blocks that had 
been detached from the cliffs that walled in the Till. As 
we were now entirely dependent upon the rod and the rifle 
for the support of our party, I determined to try for a fish, 
as I felt quite certain that some big fellows in the main 
river would be waiting to receive the small fry that were 
hurrying away from the exhausted w^aters of the Till. 

I had a good supply of tackle, and I chose a beautifully 
straight and tapering bamboo that had been brought down 
by the river floods. I cut off the large brass ring from a 
game-bag, which I lashed to the end of my rod ; and 
having well secured my largest winch, that carried 
upwards of 200 yards of the strongest line, I arranged to 
fish with a live bait upon a set of treble hooks. In one 



CHAP. IX.] FISHING. 145 

• 

of the rocks at the water's edge was a circular hole about 
three feet in diameter and five or six feet deep ; this 
appeared like an artificial well, but it was simply the 
effect of natural boring by the joint exertions of the 
strong current combined with hard sand and gravel. 
This had perhaps years ago settled in some slight hollow 
in the rock, and had gradually worked out a deep well 
by perpetual revolutions. I emptied this natural bait 
box of its contents of sand and rounded pebbles, and 
having thoroughly cleaned and supplied it with fresh 
water, I caught a large number of excellent baits by 
emptying a hole in the Till; these I consigned to my 
aquarium. The baits were of various kinds : some were 
small " boulti" (a species of perch), but the greater 
number were young fish of the Silurus species ; these 
were excellent, as they were exceedingly tough in the 
skin, and so hardy in constitution, that they rather 
enjoyed the fun of fishing. I chose a little fellow about 
four inches in length to begin with, and I delicately 
inserted the hook under the back fin. Gently dropping 
my alluring and lively little friend in a deep channel 
between the rocks and the mouth of the Till, I 
watched my large float with great interest, as, carried by 
the stream, it swept past the corner of a large rock into the 
open river ; that corner was the very place where, if I had 
been a big fish, I should have concealed myself for a 
sudden rush upon an unwary youngster. The large green 
float sailed leisurely along, simply indicating, by its 
uneasy movement, that the bait was playing ; and now it 
passed the point of the rock and hurried round the corner 
in the sharper current towards the open river. Off it 
went ! — ^Down dipped the tip of the rod, with a rush so 
sudden that the line caught somewhere, I don't know 
where, and broke ! 

" Well, that was a monster !" I exclaimed, as I re- 
covered my inglorious line; fortunately the float was not 
lost, as the hooks had been carried away at the fastening 
to the main line ; a few yards of this I cut off, as it had 
partially lost its strength from frequent immersion. 

I replaced the lost hooks by a still larger set, with the 

L 



146 TEE '' bayard:' [cnAP. IX. 

stoutest gimp and swivels, and once more I tried my 
fortune with a bait exactly resembling the first. In a 
short time I had a brisk run, and quickly landed a fish of 
about twelve pounds : this was a species known by the 
Arabs as the " bayard ;" it has a blackish green back, the 
brightest silver sides and belfy, with very peculiar back 
fins, that nearest to the tail being a simple piece of flesh 
free from rays. This fish has four long barbules in the 
upper jaw, and two in the lower: the air-bladder, when 
dried, forms a superior quality of isinglass, and the flesh 
of this fish is excellent. I have frequently seen the 
bayard sixty or seventy pounds' weight, therefore I was 
not proud of my catch, and I recommenced fishing. 
Nothing large could be tempted, and I only succeeded in 
landing two others of the same kind, one of about nine 
pounds, the smaller about six. I resolved upon my next 
trial to use a much larger bait, and I returned to camp 
with my fish for dinner. 

The life at our new camp was charmingly independent ; 
we were upon Abyssinian territory ; but, as the country 
was uninhabited, we considered it as our own. I had 
previously arranged with the sheik of Sofi that, whenever 
the rifle should be successful and I could spare meat, 
I would hoist the English flag upon my flagstaff; thus I 
could at any time summon a crowd of hungry visitors, 
who were ever ready to swim the river and defy the 
crocodiles in the hope of obtaining flesh. We were 
exceedingly comfortable, having a large stock of supplies ; 
in addition to our servants we had acquired a treasure 
in a nice old slave woman, whom we had hired from the 
sheik at a dollar per month to grind the corn. Masara 
(Sarah) was a dear old creature, the most willing and 
obliging specimen of a good slave ; and she was one of 
those bright exceptions of the negro race that would have 
driven Exeter Hall frantic with enthusiasm. Poor old 
Masara ! she had now fallen into the hands of a kind 
mistress, and as we were improving in Arabic, my wife 
used to converse w^ith her upon the past and present ; the 
future had never been suggested to her simple mind. 
Masara had a weighty care ; her daily bread was provided ; 




IHb: BAVAKI). 




THE COOK. 



CHAP. IX.] MASARA THE SLAVE. 147 

money she had none, neither did she require it ; husband 
she could not have had, as a slave has none, but is the 
common property of all who purchase her: but poor 
Masara had a daughter, a charming pretty girl of about 
seventeen, the offspring of one of the old woman's Arab 
masters. Sometimes this girl came to see her mother, 
and we arranged the bath on the inflated skins, and had 
her towed across for a few days. This was Masara's 
greatest happiness, but her constant apprehension; the 
nightmare of her life was the possibility that her daughter 
should be sold and parted from her. The girl was her 
only and aU absorbing thought, the sole object of her 
affection : she was the moon in her mother's long night of 
slavery; without her, all was dark and hopeless. The 
hearts of slaves are crushed and hardened by the constant 
pressure of the yoke ; nevertheless some have still those 
holy feelings of affection that nature has implanted in the 
human mind : it is the tearing asunder of those tender 
chains that renders slavery the horrible curse that it really 
is ; human beings are reduced to the position of animals, 
without the blessings enjoyed by the brute creation — 
short memories and obtuse feelings. 

Masara, Mahomet, Wat Gamma, and Bacheet, formed 
the establishment of Ehetilla, which was the Arab name 
uf our locality. Bacheet was an inveterate sportsman, 
and was my constant and sole attendant when shooting ; 
his great desire was to accompany me in elephant-hunting, 
when he promised to carry one of my spare rifles as a 
trusty gun-bearer, and he vowed that no animal should 
ever frighten him. 

A few extracts from my journal written at that time 
will convey a tolerable idea of the place and our em- 
ployments. 

" September 23. — Started for the Settite river. In about 
four hours' good marching N.N.E. through a country of 
grass and mimosa bush that forms the high land between 
that river and the Atbara, I reached the Settite about 
a mile from the junction. The river is about 250 yards 
wide, and flows through a broken valley of innumerable 
hillocks and deep ravines of about five miles in width, 

l2 



148 JUNGLE COOKING. [chap. [x. 

precisely similar in character to that of tlie Atbara ; the 
soil having been denuded by the rains, and carried away 
by the floods of the river towards the Nile. The heat was 
intense ; there was no air stirring ; a clondless sky and a 
sun like a burning-glass. We saw several nellut {Tauro- 
tragus strepsiceros) , but these superb antelopes were too 
wild to allow a close approach. The evening drew near, 
and we had nothing to eat, when fortunately I espied a 
line black-striped gazelle (Gazella Dorccts), and with 
the greatest caution I stalked it to within about a 
hundred paces, and made a successful shot with the 
rietcher rifle, and secured our dinner. Thus provided, we 
selected a steep sugarloaf-shaped hill, upon the peak of 
which we intended to pass the night. We therefore 
cleared away the grass, spread boughs upon the ground, 
lighted fires, and prepared for a bivouac. Having a 
gridiron, and pepper and salt, I made a grand dinner of 
liver and kidneys, while my men ate a great portion of the 
gazelle raw, and cooked the remainder in their usual care- 
less manner by simply laying it upon the fire for a few 
seconds until warmed half through. There is nothing like 
a good gridiron for rough cooking ; a frying-pan is good if 
you have fat, but without it, the pan is utterly useless. 
With a gridiron and a couple of iron skewers a man is 
independent: — the liver cut in strips and grilled with 
pepper and salt is excellent, but kabobs are sublime, if 
simply arranged upon the skewer in alternate pieces of 
liver and kidney cut as small as walnuts, and rubbed with 
chopped garlic, onions, cayenne, black pepper, and salt. 
The skewers thus arranged should be laid either upon the 
glowing embers, or across the gridiron. 

" Not a man closed his eyes that night — not that the 
dinner disagreed with them — but the mosquitoes ! Lying 
on the ground, the smoke of the fires did not protect us ; 
we were beneath it, as were the mosquitoes likewise ; in 
fact the fires added to our misery, as they brought new 
plagues in thousands of flying bugs, with beetles of all 
sizes and kinds : these, becoming stupified in the smoke, 
tumbled clumsily upon me, entangling themselves in my 
long beard and whiskers, crawling over my body, down my 



% 



CHAP. IX,] UNSUCCESSFUL STALK, 149 

neck, and up my sleeping-drawers, until I was swarming 
with them; the bugs upon being handled squashed like 
lumps of butter, and emitted a perfume that was un- 
bearable. The night seemed endless ; it was passed in 
alternately walking to and fro, flapping right and left with 
a towel, covering my head with a pillow-case, and gasping 
for air through the button-hole, in an atmosphere insuffer- 
ably sultry. 

" At length morning dawned, thank Heaven ! I made a 
cup of strong coffee, ate a morsel of dhurra bread, and 
started along the high ground parallel with the course of 
the Settite river up stream. 

" After walking for upwards of four hours over ground 
covered with tracks of giraffes, elephants, and antelopes 
about a fortnight old, I saw four tetel (Antelopics Buhalis), 
but I was unfortunate in my shot at a long range in high 
grass. We had been marching south-east, and as I intended 
to return to camp, we now turned sharp to the west. The 
country was beautiful, composed of alternate glades, copses, 
and low mimosa forest. At length I espied the towering 
head of a giraffe about half a mile distant; he was in 
the mimosa forest, and was already speculating upon our 
party, which he had quickly observed. Leaving my men 
in this spot to fix his attention, I succeeded in making a 
good stalk to within one hundred and twenty yards of him. 
He was exactly facing me, and I waited for him to turn 
and expose the flank, but he suddenly turned so quickly 
that I lost the opportunity, and he received the bullet in 
his back as he started at full speed; for the moment he 
reeled crippled among the mimosas, but, recovering, he 
made off. I could not fire the left-hand barrel on account 
of the numerous trees and bushes. I called my men, and 
followed for a few hundred yards upon his track, but as 
this was directly in an opposite direction to that of my 
camp I was forced to give up the hunt.* 

" About an hour later I hit a tetel with both barrels of 
the little Fletcher, at full gallop ; but although we followed 
the blood-track for some distance, we did not recover it. 
At this season the grass is in most places from seven to 

* We found the remains of the Giraffe a few davs later. 



150 FISHINa IN THE ATBARA. [chap. ix. 

ten feet high, and being trodden by numerous old tracks of 
animals, it is difficult to find a wounded beast without the 
assistance of a dog. The luck was against me to-day; I 
could only shoot well enough to hit everything, but to bag 
nothing, owing to a sleepless night. I killed a guinea-fowl 
to secure dinner upon my return, and we at length reached 
the welcome Atbara within two miles of my head-quarters. 
My men made a rush to the river, and threw themselves 
into the water, as all were more or less exhausted by the 
intense heat of the long day's work after a restless night. 
I took a good drink through my gazelle shank-bone, which 
I wear suspended from my neck for that purpose, and I 
went on alone, leaving my bathing party to refresh them- 
selves. I reached the tent a little after 4 p.m. after more 
than ten hours' continual walking in the burning sun. I 
felt almost red hot, but my bath and clean linen being 
ready, thanks to the careful preparation of my wife, I was 
quickly refreshed, and sat down with a lion's appetite to 
good curry and rice, and a cup of black coffee. 

" September '25. — Having nothing to eat, I took my fish- 
ing-rod and strolled down to the river, and chose from my 
aquarium a fish of about half a pound for a live bait; I 
dropped this in the river about twenty yards beyond the 
mouth of the Till, and allowed it to. swim naturally down 
the stream so as to pass across the Till junction, and 
descend the deep channel between the rocks. For about 
ten minutes I had no run ; I had twice tried the same 
water without success, nothing would admire my charming 
bait; when, just as it had reached the favourite turning- 
point at the extremity of a rock, away dashed the line, 
with the tremendous rush that follows the attack of a 
heavy fish. Trusting to the soundness of my tackle, I 
struck hard and fixed my new acquaintance thoroughly, 
but off he dashed down the stream for about fifty yards at 
one rush, making for a narrow channel between two rocks, 
through which the stream ran like a mill-race. Should he 
pass this channel, I knew he would cut the line across the 
rock ; therefore, giving him the butt, I held him by main 
force, and by the great swirl in the water I saw that I was 
bringing him to the surface ; but just as I expected to see 



ciiAr IX.] A GOOD RUN. 151 

liim, my float having already appeared, away he darted in 
another direction, taking sixty or seventy yards of line 
without a check. I at once observed that he must pass a 
shallow sandbank favourable for landing a heavy fish ; I 
therefore checked him as he reached this spot, and I fol- 
lowed him down the bank, reeling up line as I ran parallel 
with his course. Now came the tug of war ! I knew my 
hooks were good and the line sound, therefore I was deter- 
mined not to let him escape heyond the favourable ground ; 
and I put a strain upon him, that after much struggling 
brought to the surface a great shovel-head, followed by 
a pair of broad silvery sides, as I led him gradually into 
shallow water. Bacheet now cleverly secured him by the 
gills, and dragged him in triumph to the shore. This was 
a splendid bayard, at least forty pounds' weight. 

" I laid my prize upon some green reeds, and covered it 
carefully with the same cool material. I then replaced my 
bait by a lively fish, and once more tried the river. In a 
very short time I had another run, and landed a small fish 
of about nine pounds of the same species. Not wishing to 
catch fish of that size, I put on a large bait, and threw 
it about forty yards into the river, well up the stream, and 
.allowed the float to sweep the water in a half circle, thus 
taking the chance of different distances from the shore. 
For about half an hour nothing moved; I was just pre- 
paring to alter my position, when out rushed my line, and 
striking hard, I believed I fixed the old gentleman himself, 
for I had no control over him whatever ; holding him was 
out of the question ; the line flew through my hands, cut- 
ting them till the blood flowed, and I was obliged to let 
the fish take his own way : this he did for about eighty 
yards> when he suddenly stopped. This unexpected halt 
was a great calamity, for the reel overran itself, having no 
check-wheel, and the slack bends of the line caught the 
handle just as he again rushed forward, and with a jerk 
that nearly pulled the rod from my hands he was gone ! I 
found one of my large hooks broken short off; the con- 
founded reel ! The fish was a monster ! 

" After this bad luck I had no run until the evening, 
when putting on a large bait, and fishing at the tail of a 



1 52 BACHEET LANDS A MONSTER. [chap. ix. 

rock between the stream and still water, I once more had 
a grand rush, and hooked a big one. There were no rocks 
down stream, all was fair play and clear water, and away 
he went at racing pac^ straight for the middle of the 
river. To check the pace, I grasped the line with the stuff 
of my loose trousers, and pressed it between my fingers so 
as to act as a break, and compel him to labour for every 
yard ; but he pulled like a horse, and nearly cut through 
the thick cotton cloth, making straight running for at least 
a hundred yards without a halt. I now put so severe a 
strain upon him, that my strong bamboo bent nearly double, 
and the fish presently so far yielded to the pressure, that I 
could enforce his running in half circles instead of straight 
away. I kept gaining line, until I at length led him into 
a shallow bay, and after a great fight, Bacheet embraced 
him by falling upon him, and clutching the monster with 
hands and knees ; he then tugged to the shore a magni- 
ficent fish of upwards of sixty pounds. For about twenty 
minutes he had fought against such a strain as I had never 
before used upon a fish, but I had now adopted hooks of 
such a large size and thickness that it was hardly possible 
for them to break, unless snapped by a crocodile. My reel 
was so loosened from the rod, that had the struggle lasted 
a few minutes longer I must have been vanquished. This 
fish measured three feet eight inches to the root of the tail, 
and two feet three inches in girth of shoulders ; the head 
measured one foot ten inches in circumference — it was the 
same species as those I had already caught. 

" This closed the sport for the day. We called all hands 
to carry the fish to camp, and hoisted the flag, which was 
quickly followed by the arrival of a number of men from 
Sofi, to receive all that we could spare. The largest fish 
we cut into thin strips, — these we salted and dried; the 
head m^de delicious soup, with a teaspoonful of curry- 
powder. 

" September 26. — The weather is now intensely hot, and 
the short spear grass is drying so rapidly that in some 
stony places it can be fired. The birds appear to build 
their nests at various seasons. i\Iany that built three 
months ago are again at work ; among others is a species 



CHAP. IX.] THE BABOONS VISIT US. 153 

of black Mina, that takes entire possession of a tree, which 
it completely covers with nests coarsely constructed of 
sticks. A few days ago I found several trees converted 
into colonies of many hundred dwellings. 

" T never allow either the monkeys or baboons to be 
disturbed : thus they have no fear of our party, but with 
perfect confidence they approach within thirty or forty 
yards of the tents, sitting upon the rocks and trees, and 
curiously w^atching all that takes place in the camp. I 
have only seen one species of monkey in this neighbour- 
hood — a handsome dark grey animal with white whiskers. 
The baboons are also of one species, the great dog-faced 
ape (Gynoceplialus) ; these grow to a very large size, and 
old Masara fully expects to be carried off and become 
the wife of an old baboon, if they are allowed to become 
so bold. 

" This afternoon I took a stroll with the rifle, but saw 
nothing except a young crocodile about six feet long ; this 
was on the dry summit of a hill, far from water. I shot it 
and took the skin. I can only conclude that the small 
stream in which he had wandered from the river-bed had 
become dry, and the creature had lost its way in searching 
for other water. 

" Septeiiiber 27. — I started from the tent at 6 A.M. and 
made a circuit of about eighteen miles, seeing nothing 
but tetel and gazelles, but I had no luck. Hot and 
disgusted, I returned home, and took the rod, hoping for 
better luck in the river. I hooked, but lost, a small 
fish, and I began to think that the fates were against 
me by land and water, when I suddenly had a tremendous 
run, and about a hundred and fifty yards rushed ofiP 
the reel without the possibility of stopping the fish. 
The risrer was very low ; thus I followed along the bank, 
holding hard, and after about half an hour of difference 
of opinion, the fish began to show itself, and I coaxed 
it into the shallows ; here it was cleverly managed by 
Bacheet, who lugged it out by the tail. It was an ugly 
monster, of about fifty pounds, a species of silurus, known 
by the Arabs as the 'coor;' it differed from the silurus 
of Europe by having a dorsal fin, like a fringe, that ex- 



154 WILD VEGETABLES. [chap. ix. 

tended along the back to the tail. This fish had lungs 
resembling delicate branches of red coral, and, if kept 
moist, it would exist upon the land for many hours like 
an eel. It smelt strongly of musk, but it was gladly 
accepted by the Sheik of Sofi, who immediately answered 
to, the flag. 

"While shooting this morning I came suddenly upon 
a small species of leopard that had just killed a snake 
about five feet in length ; the head was neatly bitten 
off and lay upon the ground near the body ; the animal 
was commencing a meal off the snake when it was dis- 
turbed, and I lost sight of it immediately in the high 
grass. 

" September '28. — The heat is most oppressive : even the 
nights are hot, until about 2 A.M., at which hour a cool 
breeze springs up. The wind now blows from the south 
until about 1 P.M., when it changes suddenly to the north, 
and then varies between these two points during the rest 
of the day ; this leads me to hope that the north wind 
will shortly set in. September, as in England, is the 
autumn of this land ; the wild fruits are ripe, some of 
which are not unpleasant, but they are generally too 
sweet, — they lack the acidity that would be agreeable 
in this burning climate. There is an orange-coloured 
berry that has a pleasant flavour, but it is extremely 
oily ; this has a peculiarly disagreeable effect upon the 
system, if eaten in any quantity. Several varieties 
of excellent wild vegetables grow in great abundance 
throughout this country : beans, . three kinds of spinach ; 
the juicy, brittle plant cultivated in Lower Egypt, and 
known as the ' regie ; ' and lastly, that main-stay of 
Arab cookery, 'waker,' well known in Ceylon and India 
under the names of ' Barmian ' and ' Bandikai.' This 
grows to the height of thirteen or fourteen feet in the 
rich soil of the table lands : the Arabs gather the pods 
and cut them into thin slices ; these are dried in the sun, 
and then packed in large sacks for market. The harvest 
of waker is most important, as no Arab dish would be 
perfect without the admixture of this agreeable vegetable. 
The dried waker is ground into powder between two 



CHAP. IX.] DEATH OF J T ALAN WAT SAID. 155 

stones ; this, if boiled with a little gravy, produces a 
gelatinous and highly-fla.voured soup. 

" September 29. — We have just heard that Atalan Wat 
Said, by whom we were so well received, is dead ! The 
Arabs have a disagreeable custom of paying honours 
to a guest by keeping the anniversary of the death of 
any relatives whose decease should be known to them ; 
thus, when Atalan Wat Said paid a visit to Sheik Achmet 
Abou Sinn, the latter celebrated with much pomp the 
anniversary of his (Atalan's) late father's death. The 
unfortunate guest, who happened to arrive in Abou Sinn's 
camp upon the exact day upon which his father had 
died in the preceding year, was met by a mourning 
crowd, with the beating of drums, the howling of women, 
and the loud weeping and sorrowful condoling of the 
men. This scene affected Atalan Wat Said to such a 
degree, that, being rather unwell, he immediately sickened 
with fever, and died in three days. In this country 
any grief of mind will insure an attack of fever, when 
all are more or less predisposed during the unhealthy 
season, from the commencement of July until the end 
of October. 

*' This afternoon I took the rod, and havinsr caugjht 
a beautiful silver-sided fish of about a pound weight, 
I placed it upon a large single hook fastened under 
the back fin. In about an hour I had a run, but upon 
striking, I pulled the bait out of the fish's mouth, as 
the point of the hook had not touched the jaw. I 
had wound up slowly for about thirty yards, hoping 
that the big fellow would follow his lost prize, as I 
knew him to be a large fish by his attack upon a 
bait of a pound weight. I found my bait was killed, 
but having readjusted the hook, I again cast it in the 
same direction, and slowly played it towards me. I 
had him ! He took it immediately, and I determined 
to allow him to swallow it before I should strike. 
Without a halt, about a hundred yards of line were 
taken at the first rush towards the middle of the river; 
he then stopped, and I waited for about a minute, and 
then fixed him with a jerk that bent my bamboo like 



156 CATCH A BAGGAR. [chap. ix. 

a fly -rod. To this he replied by a splendid challenge ; 
in one jump he flew about six feet above the water, 
and showed himself to be one of the most beautiful 
fish I had ever seen ; not one of those nondescript ante- 
diluvian brutes that you expect to catch in these extra- 
ordinary rivers, but in colour he appeared like a clean 
run salmon. He gave tremendous play, several times 
leaping out of the water, and shaking his head furiously 
to free himself from the hook ; then darting away with 
eighty or a hundred yards of fresh line, until he at last 
was forced to yield to the strong and elastic bamboo, and 
his deep body stranded upon the fatal shallows. 

"Bacheet was a charming lad to land a fish: he was 
always quiet and thoughtful, and never got in the way 
of the Ime ; this time he closely approached him from 
behind, slipped both his hands along his side, and hooked 
his fingers into the broad gills; thus he dragged him, 
splashing through the shallows, to the sandbank. What 
a beauty ! What was he ? The colour was that of a 
salmon, and the scales were not larger in proportion : 
he was about fifty pounds' weight. The back fin re- 
sembled that of a perch, with seven rays ; the second 
dorsal fin towards the tail had fourteen rays ; the head 
was well shaped, and small in proportion; the eyes were 
bright red, and shone like rubies ; and the teeth were 
very small. I cut away my line, as the hook was deeply 
swallowed ; and after having washed this beautiful fish, 
I assisted Bacheet to carry it to the camp, where it 
was laid upon a. clean mat at. the tent-door for admira- 
tion. This species of fish is considered by the Arabs to 
be the best in the river; it is therefore called 'El Baggar' 
(the cow). It is a species of perch, and we found 
it excellent — quite equal to a fine trout. I made an 
exact sketch of it on the spot, after which the greater 
portion was cut up and salted ; it was then smoked 
for about four hours. The latter process is necessary 
to prevent the flies from blowing it, before it becomes 
sufficiently dry to resist their attacks. 

"For several days I passed my time in fishing, with 
the varying success that must attend aU fishermen. Upon 



Ui. 




THE BAGGAR. 



CHAP. X.] THE ARBOUR. 157 

the extreme verge of the river's bank were dense bushes 
of the nabbuk, about fifteen feet high, but so thickly 
massed with green foliage that I cut out a tunnel witli 
my hunting-knife, and completed a capacious arbour, 
thoroughly protected from the sun. In this it was far 
more agreeable to pass the day than at the camp ; ac- 
cordingly we arranged the ground with mats and carpets, 
and my wife converted the thorny bower into an African 
drawing-room, where she could sit with her work and 
enjoy the view of the river at her feet, and moreover 
watch the fishing/' 



CHAPTER X. 

A FEW NOTES AT EH^TILLA. 

I WILL not follow the dates of the journal consecutively, 
but merely pounce from time to time upon such passages 
as will complete the description of our life at Ehetilla. 

" October Jp. — I went out fishing in the usual place, 
where the Till joins the Atbara ; the little stream has 
disappeared, and the bed is now perfectly dry, but there 
are many large rocks and sandbanks in the river, which 
are excellent places for heavy fish. I had only three 
runs, but I landed them all. The first was a beautiful 
baggar about forty pounds, from which time a long- 
interval elapsed before I had another. I placed a bait 
of about a pound upon my treble hook, and this being 
a fine lively fellow, was likely to entice a monster. I 
was kept waiting for a considerable time, but at last he 
came with the usual tremendous rush. I gave him about 
fifty yards of line before 1 fixed him, and the struggle 
then commenced, as usual with the baggar, by his spring- 
ing out of the water, and showing his superb form and 
size. This was a magnificent fish, and his strength was 
so great, that in his violent rushes he would take sixty 
or seventy yards of line without my permission. I 



158 SUCCESSFUL FISHING. [chap. x. 

could not check him, as the line burnt and cut my fingers 
to such a degree that I was forced to let it go, and my 
only way of working him was to project the butt of the 
rod in the usual manner; this was a very feeble break 
upon the rush of such a fish. At last, after about half 
an hour of alternate bullying and coaxing, I got him into 
the shallows, and Bacheet attempted to manage him ; 
this time he required the assistance of AVat Gamma, 
who quickly ran down from the camp, and after much 
struggling, an enormous baggar of between seventy and 
eighty pounds was hauled to the shore by the two 
delighted Arabs. 

"I never enjoyed the landing of a fish more than on 
the present occasion, and I immediately had the flag 
hoisted for a signal, and sent the largest that I had just 
caught as a present to Florian and his people. The 
two fish as they lay upon the green reeds, glittering in 
silvery scales, were a sight -to gladden the eyes of a 
fisherman, as their joint weight was above one hundred 
and twenty • pounds. I caught another fish in the evening 
something over twenty pounds, an ugly and useful crea- 
ture, the coor, that I despised, although it is a determined 
enemy while in play. 

" October 10. — Set fire to the low spear grass of the 
valley. The river is now very low, exposing in many 
places large beds of shingle, and rocks hitherto concealed. 
The water level is now about thirty feet below the dried 
sedges and trash left by the high floods upon the over- 
hanging boughs. The bed of the Atbara, and that of 
the Settite, are composed of rounded pebbles of all sizes, 
and masses of iron ore. Large oysters {Etheria), re- 
sembling the pearl oysters of Ceylon, are very numerous, 
and, from their internal appearance, with large protu- 
berances of pearl matter, I should imagine they would 
most probably yield pearls. 

"The wild animals have now deserted this immediate 
neighbourhood ; the only creatures that are to be seen 
in numbers are the apes and monkeys : these throng 
the sides of the river, eating the tamarinds from the 
few large trees, and collecting gum from the mimosas. 



CHAP. X.] JN ARAB SEIZED BY A CROCODILE. 159 

These hungry animals gather the tamarinds before they 
ripen, and I fear they will not leave a handful for us ; 
nothing is more agreeable in this liot climate than the 
acidity of tamarind water. I remarked a few days ago, 
when walking along the dry sandy bed of the Till about 
five miles from the river, that the monkeys had been 
dio^crincT wells in the sand for water. 

CO o 

"Many changes are now taking place in the arrival 
and departure of various birds according to their migra- 
tions ; immense numbers of buzzards and hawks have 
arrived, and keep my fowls in perpetual alarm. Ducks 
fly in large flocks up stream invariably, every day; 
storks of different kinds are arriving. Among the new 
comers is a beautiflil little bird, in size and shape like 
a canary, but of a deep bluish black, with an ivory 
white bill and yellow lips. The beasts of prey are 
hungry, as the -game has become scarce : — there is no 
safety for tame animals, and our goats will not feed, as 
they are constantly on the look-out for danger, starting 
at the least sound in the bushes, and running to the 
tents for security : thus their supply of milk is much- 
reduced. 

"The Sheik of Sofi, Hassan bel Kader, swam across 
the river with a present of fowls ; these he had tied 
upon his head to prevent them from drowning. This 
man is a celebrated hippopotamus hunter, and I look 
forward to accompanying him upon a harpooning expe- 
dition, when the river is lower. His father was killed 
by a bull hippo that he had harpooned ; the infuriated 
animal caught the unfortunate hunter in his jaws, and 
with one nip disembowelled him before his son's eyes. 
Accidents are constantly occurring in this dangerous sport, 
as the hunters are so continually in the water that they 
are exposed, like baits, to the atta(;lvs of crocodiles. 
During the last season one of the sheik's party was 
killed ; several men were swimming the river, supported 
by inflated skins, when one was suddenly seized by a 
crocodile. Eetaining his hold upon the support, his 
comrades had time to clutch him by the hair, and be- 
neath the arms ; thus the crocodile could not drag the 



160 BOLDNESS OF BUZZARDS. [chap. x. 

buoyant skins beneath the surface. Once he was dragged 
from their grasp, but holding to his inflated skin, he re- 
gained the surface, and was again supported by his 
friends, who clung to him. while he implored them to 
hold him tight, as the crocodile still held him by the leg. 
In this way the hunters assisted him ; at the same time 
they struck downwards with their spears at the deter- 
mined brute, until they at last drove it from its hold. 
Upon gaining the shore, they found that the flesh of the 
leg from the knee downwards had been stripped from 
the bone, and the poor fellow shortly died. 

" October 11. — The Arabs have murdered one of the 
Egyptian soldiers, about five miles from Sofi. All my 
people are more or less ill, but we, thank Heaven, are 
in excellent health ; in fact, I have never been better 
than in this country, although I am constantly in hard 
exercise in the burning sun. 

" October 15. — A fine breeze, therefore I set fire to the 
grass in all directions, which spread into a blaze over 
many miles of country. The fire immediately attracts 
great numbers of fly-catchers and buzzards ; these hover 
in the smoke to catch the locusts and other insects that 
escape from the heat. Buzzards are so exceedingly bold, 
that it is one person's special duty to protect the strips 
of flesh when an animal is being cut up, at which time 
many scores collect, and swoop down upon their prey, 
clutching a piece of meat with their claws, if left un- 
guarded for a moment. Upon one occasion, the cook 
had just cleaned a fish of about a pound and a half 
weight, which he laid upon the ground while he stooped 
to blow the fire ; in an instant a large buzzard darted 
upon it, and carried it off. 

"Africa may have some charms, but it certainly is 
rather a trying country ; in the rainy weather we have 
the impenetrable high grass, the flies, and the mud ; 
when those entertainments are over, and the grass has 
ripened, every variety of herb and bush is more or less 
armed with lances, swords, daggers, bayonets, knives, 
spikes, needles, pins, fish-hooks, hay-forks, harpoons, and 
every abomination in the shape of points which render 



CHAP. X.] BABOONS ON THE MARCH. 1 6 1 

a leather suit indispensable to a sportsman, even in this 
hot climate. My knickerbockers are made of the coarse 
but strong Arab cotton cloth, that I have dyed brown 
with the fruit of the Acacia Arabica ; but after a walk 
of a few minutes, I am one mass of horrible points from 
the spear grass, for about a foot from the upper part of 
my gaiters ; the barbed points having penetrated, break 
off, and my trousers are as comfortable as a hedgehog's 
skin turned inside out, with the ' woolly side in.' 

" I long for the time when the entire country will be 
dry enough to burn, when fire will make a clean sweep 
of these nuisances. 

" October 17. — The sheik and several Arabs went to 
the Settite to sow tobacco ; they simply cast the seed 
upon the sandy loam left by the receding river, without 
even scratching the soil ; it is thus left to take its chance. 
I accompanied him to the Settite, and came upon the 
tracks of a herd of about fifty elephants that had crossed 
the river a few days previous. As we were walking 
through the high grass we came upon a fine boa-con- 
strictor (python), and not wishing to fire, as I thought 
I might disturb elephants in the neighbourhood, I made 
a cut at it with my heavy hunting-knife, nearly severing 
about four feet from the tail, but it escaped in the 
high grass. 

" October 18. — A lion paid us a visit last night, roaring 
close to the tent at intervals, frightening Mahomet out of 
his wits. 

"The seroot fly has entirely disappeared, and immense 
dragon flies are now arrived, and are greedily attacking all 
other flying insects. 

" October 19. — Troops of baboons are now exceedingly 
numerous, as the country being entirely dried up, they are 
forced to the river for water, and the shady banks covered 
with berry-bearing shrubs induce them to remain. It is 
very amusing to watch these great male baboons stalking 
majestically along, followed by a large herd of all ages, the 
mothers carryiug their little ones upon their backs, the 
latter with a regular jockey-seat riding most comfortably, 
while at other times they relieve the monotony of the 

M 



162 SWARMS OF SMALL BIRDS, [chap. x. 

position by sprawling at full length and holding on by 
their mother's back hair. Suddenly a sharp-eyed young 
ape discovers a bash well covered with berries, and his 
greedy munching being quickly observed, a general rush of 
youngsters takes place, and much squabbling for the best 
places ensues among the boys ; this ends in great uproar, 
when down comes a great male, who cuffs one, pulls an- 
other by the hair, bites another on the hind quarters just as 
he thinks he has escaped, drags back a would-be deserter 
by his tail and shakes him thoroughly, and thus he shortly 
restores order, preventing all further disputes by sitting 
under the bush and quietly enjoying the berries by him- 
self These baboons have a great variety of expressions 
that may perhaps represent their vocabulary : a few of 
these I begin to understand, such as their notes of alarm, 
and the cry to attract attention ; thus, when I am sitting 
alone beneath the shade of a tree to watch their habits, 
they are at first not quite certain what kind of a creature I 
may be, and they give a peculiar cry to induce me to move 
and show myself more distinctly. 

" October 20. — A lion was roaring throughout the night 
not far from the tent on his way towards the river to 
drink ; at every roar he was answered by the deep angry 
cry of the baboons, who challenged him immediately from 
their secure positions on the high rocks and trees. I found 
the tracks of his large feet upon the bank of the river, but 
there is no possibility of finding these animals in the day 
time, as they retire to the high grass upon the table lands. 

" The banks of the Atbara are now swarming with 
small birds that throng the bushes (a species of willow), 
growing by the water's edge ; the weight of a large flock 
bends down the slender boughs until they touch the 
water : this is their opportunity for drinking, as their beaks 
for an instant kiss the stream. These unfortunate little 
birds get no rest, the large fish and the crocodiles grab at 
them when they attempt to drink, while the falcons and 
hawks pursue them at all times and in every direction. 
Nothing is fat, as nothing can obtain rest, the innumerable 
birds and beasts of prey give no peace to the weaker 
kinds; the fattest alderman of the city of London would 



CHAP. X. J CUNNING OF THE CROCODILE. 163 

become a skeleton, if hunted for two lionrs daily by a 
hyaena. 

" October ^3. — This evening I took a wf^lk, accompanied 
by my wife, and Bacheet with a spare gun, to try for a 
shot at guinea-fowl. We were strolling along the margin 
of the river, when we heard a great shrieking of women 
on the opposite side, in the spot from which the people of 
Sofi fetch their water. About a dozen women had been 
filling their w^ater-skins, when suddenly they were attacked 
by a large crocodile, who attempted to seize a woman, but 
she, springing back, avoided it, and the animal swallowed 
her girba (water-skin), that, being full of water and of a 
brown exterior, resembled the body of a woman. The 
women rushed out of the river, when the crocodile made a 
second dash at them, and seized another water-skin that a 
woman had dropped in her flight. They believe this to be 
the same monster that took a woman a few months ago. 
Few creatures are so sly and wary as the crocodile. I 
watch them continually as they attack the dense flocks of 
small birds that throng the bushes at the water's edge. 
These birds are perfectly aware of the danger, and they fly 
from the attack, if possible. The crocodile then quietly 
and innocently lies upon the surface, as though it had ap- 
peared quite by an accident ; it thus attracts the attention 
of the birds, and it slowly sails away to a considerable 
distance, exposed to their view. The birds, thus beguiled 
by the deceiver, believe that the danger is removed, and 
they again flock to the bush, and once more dip their 
thirsty beaks into the stream. Thus absorbed in slaking 
their thirst, they do not observe that their enemy is no 
longer on the surface. A sudden splash, followed by a 
huge pair of jaws beneath the bush that engulfs some 
dozens of victims, is the signal unexpectedly given of the 
crocodile's return, who has thus slyly dived, and hastened 
under cover of water to his victims. I have seen the 
crocodiles repeat this manoeuvre constantly ; they deceive 
by a feigned retreat, and then attack from below. 

" In like manner the crocodile perceives, while it is 
floating on the surface in mid-stream, or from the opposite 
side of the river, a woman filling her girba, or an animal 

M 2 



164 HORSE DEALING. [chap. x. 

drinking, &c. &c. Sinking immediately, it swims perhaps 
a hundred yards nearer, and again appearing for an instant 
upon the surface, it assures itself of the position of its prey 
by a stealthy look ; once more it sinks, and reaches the 
exact spot above which the person or animal may be. 
Seeing distinctly through the water, it generally makes its 
fatal rush from beneath — sometimes seizing with its jaws, 
and at other times striking the object into the water with 
its tail, after which it is seized and carried off. 

" The crocodile does not attempt to swallow a large prey 
at once, but generally carries it away and keeps it for a 
considerable time in its jaws in some deep hole beneath a 
rock, or the root of a tree, where it eats it at leisure. The 
tongue of the crocodile is so unlike that of any other 
creature that it can hardly be called by the same name ; no 
portion throughout the entire length is detached from the 
flesh of the lower jaw — it is more like a thickened mem- 
brane from the gullet to about half way along the length 
of jaw. 

" October 2^. — Having burnt off a large surface of high 
grass, I discovered a quantity of gourds and wild 
cucumbers — the latter are bright crimson, covered with 
long fleshy prickles, with black horny tips ; these are eaten 
by the baboons, but not by the Arabs. The gourds are 
only serviceable for cups and ladles manufactured from 
their shells. 

" I find a good pair of Highland shooting shoes of great 
value ; the soles were exceedingly thick, and they have 
resisted, until now, the intensely hard and coarse-grained 
sandstone which grinds through all leather. ]My soles are 
at length worn out, and 1 have repaired them with the 
tanned hide of giraffe. Much of the sandstone is white, 
and soft and friable ; but this appears to have been de- 
composed by time and exposure, as the generality is hard, 
and would make excellent grindstones. 

" October 25. — Three elephant-hunters arrived to-day 
with horses for sale. I purchased three— a bay and two 
greys. They are all of Abyssinian breed, and are hand- 
some animals, although none exceed fourteen hands and a 
half The prices were high for this part of the world, 



ciiA?. X.J ARAB SADDLES AND BITS. 165 

where dollars are scarce ; but to me, they appeared to be 
absurdly cheap. The bay horse was a regular strong-built 
cob ; for him I paid nineteen dollars— about 4/. including 
a native saddle and bridle ; for the greys, T paid fifteen and 
thirteen dollars, saddles and bridles also included. The 
bay I named Tetel (hartebeest), the greys Aggahr* and 
Gazelle. Tetel was a trained hunter, as was Aggahr like- 
wise. Gazelle was quite inexperienced, but remarkably 
handsome. None of these horses had ever been shod, but 
their hoofs were beautifully shaped, and as hard as ivory. 
The saddles had no stuffing on the seats, but were simple 
wooden frames, with high backs and pommels, the various 
pieces being sewn together with raw hide, and the front 
and back covered with crocodile skin. The stirrups were 
simple iron rings, sufficiently large to admit the great toe 
of the rider, according to Arab fashion in these parts. The 
bits were dreadfully severe; but perhaps not unneces- 
sarily, as the sword allows only one bridle-hand to a 
pulling horse. Each horse was furnished with a leathern 
nose-bag, and a long leathern thong as a picket strap. All 
these horses and saddlery I had purchased for forty-seven 
dollars, or 9/. 10s. Fortunately, both my wife and I were 
well provided with the best English saddles, bridles, &c. 
or the ' big toe ' stirrup would have been an awkward 
necessity. 

" October 26. — We left our camp this morning for a 
few days' reconnaisance of the country, accompanied by 
Fiorian, prior to commencing our regular expedition. Nme 
miles S.E. of Ehetilla we passed through a village called 
Wat el ISTegur, after which we continued along a great 
tract of table land, on the eastern side of the Atbara 
valley, bounded by a mimosa forest about four miles on 
the east. Very large quantities of dhurra {Sorghum vul- 
gare) are grown upon this fertile soil; it is now higher 
than a man's head when mounted upon a camel. Ear 
as the eye can reach, the great table lands extend on 
either side the broad valley of the Atbara. The cotton 
that was planted many years ago by the inhabitants who 
have vanished, still flourishes, although choked with grass 

* .Aff^ahr is the desicrnatiou of a hunter with the sword. 



166 ARRIVE AT SHERIF EL IBRAHIM. [chap. x. 

six or seven feet liigii. At 4 p.m. we reached a large 
village, Sherif el Ibrahim, twenty-eight miles S.E. from 
Sofi by the route upon the east bank of the Atbara, which 
cuts off a bend in the river. A species of dhurra, as 
sweet as the sugar-cane, grows here in abundance, being 
regularly sown and cultivated ; it is called ankoleep. 
This is generally chewed in the mouth as a cane ; but it 
is also peeled by the women, and, when dried, it is boiled 
with milk to give it sweetness. A grain called dochan, 
a species of millet, is likewise cultivated to a considerable 
extent ; when ripe, it somewhat resembles the head of 
the bulrush. The whole of this country would grow 
cotton and sugar to perfection. 

" October 28. — Having slept at the village, we went to 
the river, and Florian shot a hippopotamus. The natives, 
having skinned it, rushed at the carcase with knives 
and axes, and fought over it like a pack of wolves ; 
neither did they leave the spot until they had severed each 
bone, and walked off with every morsel, of this immense 
beast. 

" October 31. — Having passed a couple of days at Sherif 
el Ibrahim, we started for the Settite. When about half 
way, we arrived at a curious plateau of granite rock, with 
a pool of water in the centre. Formerly a large village 
occupied this position, named Gerrarat ; but it was de- 
stroyed in a raid by the Egyptians, as being one of Mek 
Mmmur's strongholds. The rock is a flat surface of 
about five acres, covered with large detached fragments of 
granite ; near this are several pools of water, which form 
the source of the rivulet, the Till, that bounds our camp 
at Ehetilla. A large homera-tree {Adansonia digitata) 
grows among the blocks of granite by the pool ; in the 
shade of its enormous boughs we breakfasted, and again 
started at 4 p.m. reaching the Settite river at 7.30, at a 
spot named Geera. In the dark we had some difficulty 
in finding our way down the rugged slopes of the valley 
to the river. "We had not taken beds, as these in- 
cumbrances were unnecessary when in light marching 
order. We therefore made separate bivouacs, Florian 
and his people about a hundred yards distant; while a 



CHAP. X.] RECALL OF MAHOMET. 167 

rug laid upon the ground was sufficient for my wife. I 
made myself comfortable in a similar manner. Lions 
were roaring all night. 

" On the following morning we took a long stroll along 
the wild and rugged valley of the Settite, that was pre- 
cisely similar to that of the Atbara. The river, although 
low, was a noble stream, and the water was at this season 
beautifully clear as it ran over a bed of clean pebbles. 
The pass between the cliffs of Geera was exceedingly 
lovely. At that point the river did not exceed 200 yards 
in width, and it flowed through abrupt cliffs of beautiful 
rose-coloured limestone ; so fine and pure was the surface 
of the stone, that in places it resembled artificially- 
smoothed marble ; in other places, the cliffs, equally 
abrupt, were of milk-white limestone of similar quality. 
This was the first spot in which I had found limestone 
since I had left Lower Egypt. The name ' Geera,' in 
Arabic, signifies lime. Formerly this was an important 
village belonging to Mek Nimmur, but it had been 
destroyed by the Egyptians, and the renowned Mek 
Nimmur was obliged to fall back to the strongholds of 
the mountains. 

" I started off a man to recall Mahomet and my entire 
camp from Ehetilla to Wat el ISTegur, as that village was 
only seven hours' march from Geera ; the three points, 
Sherif el Ibrahim, Geera, and Wat el Negur formed 
almost an equilateral triangle. We reached the latter 
village on the following day, and found that Mahomet 
and a string of camels from Sofi had already arrived. 
The country was now thickly populated on the west bank 
of the Atbara, as the Arabs and their flocks had returned 
after the disappearance of the seroot fly. Mahomet had 
had an accident, having fallen from his camel and broken 
no bones, but he had smashed the stock of my single- 
barrel rifle ; this was in two pieces ; I mended it, and 
it become stronger than ever. The w^ood had broken 
short ofl' in the neck of the stock, I therefore bored a 
hole about three inches deep up the centre of either 
l)iece, so that it was hollowed like a marrow-bone; in 
one of them I inserted a piece of an iron ramrod, red-hot. 



168 SHEIK ACHMET WAT EL NEGUR. [chap. x. 

I then drew the other piece over the iron in a similar 
manner, and gently tapped the shoulder-plate nntil I 
had driven the broken joint firmly together. I then 
took off from a couple of old boxes two strong brass 
hasps ; these I let neatly into the wood on each side of 
the broken stock, and secured them by screws, filing off 
all projections, so that they fitted exactly. I finished 
the work by stretching a piece of well-soaked crocodile's 
skin over the joint, which, when drawn tight, I sewed 
strongly together. When this dried it became as hard 
as horn, and very much stronger ; the extreme contraction 
held the work together like a vice, and my rifle was per- 
fectly restored. A traveller in wild countries should 
always preserve sundry treasures that will become in- 
valuable, such as strips of crocodile skin, the hide of the 
iguana, &c. which should be kept in the tool-box for 
cases of need. The tool-box should not exceed two feet 
six inches in length, and one foot in depth, but it should 
contain the very best implements that can be made, 
with an extra supply of gimlets, awls, centre-bits, and 
borers of every description, also tools for boring iron ; at 
least two dozen files of difterent sorts should be included." 
Wat el N^gur was governed by a most excellent and 
polite sheik of the Jalyn tribe. Sheik Achmet Wat el 
N^gur was his name and title ; being of the same race 
as Mek Nimmur, he dared to occupy the east bank of 
the Atbara. Sheik Achmet was a wise man ; he was a 
friend of the Egyptian authorities, to whom he paid 
tribute as though it were his greatest pleasure; he also 
paid tribute to Mek Mmmur, with whom he was upon 
the best of terms ; therefore, in the constant fights that 
took place upon the borders, the cattle and people of 
Sheik Achmet were respected by the contending parties, 
while those of all others were sufferers. This was exactly 
the spot for my head-quarters, as, like Sheik Achmet, I 
wished to be on good terms with everybody, and through 
him I should be able to obtain an introduction to Mek 
Mmmur, whom I particularly wished to visit, as I had 
heard that there never was such a brigand. Accordingly, 
I pitched the tents and formed a camp upon the bank 



CHAP. X.] MANSFIELD PARKYNS. IGO 

of the river, about two hundred yards below the village 
of Wat el N^gur, and in a short time Sheik Achmet and 
I became the greatest friends. 

There is nothing more delightful when travelling in 
a strange country, a thousand miles away from the track 
of the wildest tourist, than to come upon the footprint of 
a countryman ; not the actual mark of his sole upon the 
sand, which the dust quickly obscures, but to find im- 
printed deeply upon the minds and recollections of the 
people, the good character of a former traveller, that in- 
sures you a favourable introduction. Many years before 
I visited Wat el jSTegur, Mr. Mansfield Parky ns, who has 
certainly written the best book on Abyssinia that I have 
ever read, passed through this country, having visited 
Mek Nimmur, the father of the present Mek. He was, 
I believe, the only European that had ever been in Mek 
Nimmur's territory, neither had his footsteps been fol- 
io w^ed until my arrival. Mr. Parkyns had left behind 
him what the Arabs call a " sweet name ; " and as I 
happened to have his book, ''Life in Abyssinia," with 
me, I showed it to the sheik as his production, and 
explained the illustrations, &c. ; at the same time I told 
him that Mr. Parkyns had described his visit to Mek 
i^immur, of whom he had spoken very highly, and that 
I wished to have an opportunity of telling the great 
chief in person how much his good reception had 
been appreciated. The good Sheik Achmet immediately 
promised to present me to Mek Ninimur, and wished 
particularly to know whether I intended to write a book 
like Mr. Parkyns upon my return. Should I do so, he 
requested me to mention Ms name. I promised at once 
to do this trifling favour ; thus I have the greatest pleasure 
in certifying that Sheik Achmet Wat el Negur is one of 
the best and most agreeable fellows that I have ever 
met in Africa; he does not keep an hotel, or I would 
strongly recommend it to all travellers, but his welcome 
is given gratis, with the warmest hospitality. 

The country for several miles upon the table land above 
Wat el Negur w^as highly cultivated, and several thousand 
acres were planted with dhurra, that was at this season 



1 70 BAMAGH TO CROPS BY ELEPHANTS, [chap. x. 

in full grain, and nearly ripe. Much sesame was grown 
for the manufacture of oil ; cotton was also cultivated, 
and the neighbourhood was a fair example of the won- 
derful capabilities of the entire country that was allowed 
to lie in idleness. There was little rest for the inhabitants 
at this time, as the nights were spent in watching their 
extensive plantations, and endeavouring to scare away 
the elephants. These animals, with extreme cunning, 
invaded the dhurra crops at different positions every night, 
and retreated before morning to great distances in the 
thick thorny jungles of the Settite. 

Our arrival was welcomed with general enthusiasm, as 
the Arabs were unprovided with lire-arms, and the cele- 
brated aggageers or sword-hunters were useless, as the 
elephants only appeared at night, and were far too cunning 
to give them a chance. There was a particular range of 
almost impenetrable thorny covert in the neighbourhood 
of Geera, well known as the asylum for these animals, 
to which they retreated, after having satiated themselves 
by a few hours' feeding upon the crops of corn. I pro- 
mised to assist in protecting the plantations, although 
the Arabs assured me that, in spite of our rifles, the 
elephants would return every night. 

Wishing to judge personally of the damage, I rode up 
to the dhurra- fields, and for a few hours I examined the 
crops, through which I could ride with ease, as the plants 
were arranged like hops. 

Many acres were absolutely destroyed, as the elephants 
had not only carefully stripped off the heavy heads of 
corn, but had trampled down and wilfully broken much 
more than they had consumed. The Arabs knew nothing 
about guns, or their effect upon elephants, and I felt 
quite sure that a few nights with the heavy rifles would 
very soon scare them from the fields. 

I return to my journal. 

" Novemhcr 7. — In the middle of last night I was dis- 
turbed by the Arabs, who begged me to get up paid shoot 
the elephants that were already in the plantations. This 
I refused to do, as I will not fire a shot until they call in 
their watchers, and leave the fields quiet. A few nights 



CHAP. X.J JN IN?\TATION TO SHOOT. 171 

ago there was a perfect uproar from a score of watchers, 
that prevented the elephants from coming at the very 
time that the people had induced me to pass the whole 
nioht in the fields. I have arrancjed that the sheik shall 
call in all these watchers, and that they shall accompany 
me to-morrow night. I will then post myself in the 
centre of the plantations, dividing the men into many 
parties at all points, to return quietly to me and report the 
position that the elephants may have taken. 

" This morning I purchased a kid for two piastres (five 
pence). The sheik is exceedingly civil, and insists upon 
sending me daily supplies of milk and vegetables. 

"This afternoon, accompanied by my wife, I accepted 
an invitation to shoot a savage old bull hippopotamus that 
liad been sufficiently impertinent to chase several of the 
natives. He lived in a deep and broad portion of the 
river, about two miles distant. We accordingly rode to 
the spot, and found the old hippo at home. The river 
was about 250 yards wide at this place, in an acute bend 
that had formed a deep pool. In the centre of this was a 
mud bank, just below the surface ; upon this shallow bed 
the hippo was reposing. Upon perceiving us he was 
exceedingly saucy, snorting at my party, and behaving 
himself in a most absurd manner, by shaking his head 
and leaping half-way out of the water. This plunging 
demonstration was intended to frighten us. I had pre- 
viously given Bacheet a pistol, and had ordered him to 
follow on the opposite bank from the ford at Wat el 
jSTegur. I now hallooed to him to fire several shots at 
the hippo, in order to drive him, if possible, towards me, 
as I lay in ambush behind a rock in the bed of the river. 
Bacheet descended the almost perpendicular bank to the 
water's edge, and after having chaffed the hippo con- 
siderably, he fired a shot with the pistol, which was far 
more dangerous to us on the opposite side than to the 
animal. The hippo, who was a wicked solitary old bull, 
accustomed to have his own way, returned the insult by 
charging towai'ds Bacheet with a tremendous snorting, 
that sent him scrambling up the steep bank in a panic, 
amidst a roar of laughter from the people on my side 



1 72 SHOOT A HIPPOPOTAMUS. [chap x. 

concealed in the bushes. In this peal of merriment I 
thought I could distinguish a voice closely resembling 
that of my wife. However, Bacheet, who had always 
longed to be brought face to face with some foe worthy of 
his steel, had bolted, and he now stood safe in his elevated 
position on the top of the bank, thirty feet above the 
river, and fired the second barrel in bold defiance at the 
hippopotamus. 

" As the hippo had gained confidence, I showed myself 
above the rock, and called to him, according to Arab 
custom, ' Hasinth ! Hasinth ! ' * He, thinking no doubt 
that he might as well hunt me away, gave a loud snort, 
sank, and quickly reappeared about a hundred yards 
from me ; but nearer than this he positively refused to 
approach. I therefore called to Bacheet to shout from 
the other side to attract his attention, and as he turned 
his head, I took a steady shot behind the ear with the 
little Fletcher lifle. This happened to be one of those 
fortunate shots that consoles you for many misses, and 
the saucy old hippo turned upon his back and rolled 
about in tremendous struggles, lashing the still and deep 
pool into waves, until he at length disappeared. We 
knew that he was settled; thus my people started off 
towards the village, and in a marvellously short time a 
frantic crowd of Arabs arrived with camels, ropes, axes, 
knives, and everything necessary for an onslaught upon 
the hippo, who, up to this time, had not appeared upon 
the surface. In about an hour and a half from the time 
he received the bullet, we discovered his carcase floating 
about two hundred yards lower down the river. Several 
heads of large crocodiles appeared and vanished suddenly 
within a few feet of the floating carcase, therefore the 
Arabs considered it prudent to wait until the stream 
should strand the body upon the pebbly shallov7s about 
half a mile below the pool. Upon arrival at that point, 
there was a general rush, and the excited crowd secured 
the hippo by many ropes, and hauled it to the shore. It 
was a very tine bull, as the skin without the head measured 
twelve feet three inches. I had two haunches kept for the 

* Hasintli is the Arabic for hippopotamus. 




^«nf liMiiii 



CHAP. X.] ELEPHANTS AT NIGHT. 1 73 

sheik, and a large quantity of fat, which is higlily and 
deservedly prized by the Arabs, as it is the most delicate 
of any animal. Those portions secured, with a reserve of 
meat for ourselves, the usual disgusting scene of violence 
commenced, the crowd falling upon the carcase like mad- 
dened hyaenas. 

" In the eveninoj I resolved to watch the dhurra fields 
for elephants. At about 9 p.m. I arrived in the plan- 
tations, with three men carrying spare guns, among whom 
was Bacheet, who had at length an opportimity for which 
he had long yearned. I entrusted to him the ' Baby,' 
which he promised to put into my hands the very moment 
that I should fire my second barrel. I carried my own 
Ceylon ISTo. 10, made by Beattie. We had not been half 
an hour in the dhurra fields before we met a couple of 
Arab watchers, who informed us that a herd of elephants 
was already in the plantation; we accordingly followed 
our guides. In about a quarter of an hour we dis- 
tinctly heard the cracking of the dhurra stems, as the 
elephants browsed, and trampled them beneath their 
feet. 

"Taking the proper position of the wind, I led our 
party cautiously in the direction of the sound, and in 
about five minutes I came in view of the slate-coloured 
and dusky forms of the herd. The moon was bright, and 
I counted nine elephants ; they had trampled a space of 
about fifty yards square into a barren level, and they were 
now slowly moving forward, feeding as they went. One 
elephant, unfortunately, was separated from the herd, and 
was about forty yards in the rear ; this fellow I was afraid 
would render our approach difficult. Cautioning my men, 
especially Bacheet, to keep close to me with the spare 
rifles, I crept along the alleys formed by the tall rows 
of dhurra, and after carefully stalking against the wind, 
1 felt sure that it would be necessary to kill the single 
elephant before I should be able to attack the herd. 
Accordingly, I crept nearer and nearer, well concealed 
in the favourable crop of high and sheltering stems, until 
I was within fifteen yards of the hindmost animal. As I 
had never shot one of the African species, I was deter- 



1 74 KILL AN LLEFHANT. [chap. x. 

mined to follow the Ceylon plan, and get as near as pos- 
sible ; therefore I continued to creep from row to row of 
dhnrra, until I at length stood at the very tail of the 
elephant in the next row. I could easily have touched it 
with my rifle, but just at this moment, it either obtained 
my wind, or it heard the rustle of the men. It quickly 
turned its head half round towards me ; in the same 
instant T took the temple shot, and, by the flash of the 
rifle, I saw that it fell. Jumping forward past the huge 
body, I fired the left-hand barrel at an elephant that had 
advanced from the herd ; it fell immediately ! Now came 
the moment for a grand rush, as they stumbled in con- 
fusion over the last fallen elephant, and jammed together 
in a dense mass with their immense ears outspread, forming 
a picture of intense astonishment ! Where were my spare 
guns ? Here was a grand opportunity to run in and floor 
them right and left ! 

" Not a man was in sight, everybody had bolted ! and I 
stood in advance of the dead elephant calling for my guns 
in vain. At length one of my fellows came up, but it was 
too late, the fallen elephant in the herd had risen from 
the ground, and they had all hustled off at a great pace, 
and were gone ; I had only bagged one elephant. AAHiere 
was the valiant Bacheet ? the would-be Nimrod, who for 
the last three months had been fretting in inactivity, and 
longing for the moment of action, when he had promised 
to be my trusty gun-bearer ! He was the last man to 
appear, and he only ventured from his hiding-place in the 
high dhurra when assured of the elephants' retreat. I 
was obliged to admonish the whole party by a little 
physical treatment, and the gallant Bacheet returned 
with us to the village, crestfallen and com.pletely sub- 
dued. On the following day not a vestige remained 
of the elephant, except the offal: the Arabs had not 
only cut off the flesh, but they had hacked the skull 
and the bones in pieces, and carried them off to boil 
down for soup." 



CHAPTEE XL 

THE FOKD. 

Two months had elapsed since the last drop of rain had 
closed the wet season. It was loth November, and the 
river had fallen to so low an ebb that the stream was 
reduced to a breadth of about eighty yards of bright and 
clear water, rushing in places with great rapidity through 
the centre of its broad and stony bed, while in sudden 
bends of the channel it widened into still, and exceedingly 
deep pools. We were encamped exactly upon the verge 
of a perpendicular cliff, from which there was a rugged 
path to the dry chaunel some thirty feet below, which 
shelved rapidly towards the centre occupied by the stream. 
In this spot were powerful rapids, above which to our left 
was a ford, at this time about waist-deep, upon a bed of 
rock that divided the lower rapids from a broad and silent 
pool above : across this ford the women of the village 
daily passed to collect their faggots of wood from the 
bushes on the opposite side. I had shot a crocodile, and 
a marabou stork, and I was carefully plucking the plume 
of beautiful feathers from the tail of the bird, surrounded 
by a number of Arabs, when I observed a throng of 
women, each laden with a bundle of wood, crossing the 
ford in single file from the opposite bank. Among them 
were two young girls of about fifteen, and I remarked that 
these, instead of marching in a line with the women, were 
wading hand-in-hand in dangerous proximity to the head 
of the rapids. A few seconds later, I noticed that they 
were inclining their bodies up stream, and were evidently 
struggling with the current. Hardly had I pointed out 
the danger to the men around me, when the girls clung to 
each other, and striving against their fate they tottered 
down the stream towards the rapids, which rushed with 
such violence that the waves were about two feet high. 



1 76 ^N AMPHIBIOUS ARAB GIRL. [chap. xi. 

With praiseworthy speed the Arabs started to their feet, 
and dashed down the deep descent towards the river, but 
before they had reached half way, the girls uttered a 
shriek, lost their footing, and in another instant they 
threw their arms wildly above their heads, and were 
hurried away in the foam of the rapids. Qne disappeared 
immediately ; the other was visible, as her long black hair 
floated on the surface ; she also sank. Presently, about 
twenty yards below the spot, a pair of naked arms pro- 
truded high above the surface, with ivory bracelets upon 
the wrists, and t^vice the hands clapped together as though 
imploring help ; again she disappeared. The water was 
by this time full of men, who had rushed to the rescue ; 
but they had foolishly jumped in at the spot where they 
had first seen the girls, who were of course by this time 
carried far away by the torrent. Once more, farther down 
the river, the hands and bracelets appeared ; again they 
w^ildly clapped together, and in the clear water we could 
plainly see the dark hair beneath. Still, she sank again, 
but almost immediately she rose head and shoulders above 
the surface, and thrice she again clapped her hands for aid. 

This was her last effort ; she disappeared. By this 
time several men had wisely run along the' bank below 
the tail of the rapids, and having formed a line across 
a very narrow portion of the stream, one of them suddenly 
clutched an object beneath the water and in another 
moment he held the body of the girl in his arms. Of 
course she was dead ? or a fit subject for the Eoyal 
Humane Society ? — So I supposed ; when to our intense 
astonishment, she no sooner was brought to the shore than 
she gave herself a shake, threw back her long hair, wrung 
out and arranged her dripping rahat, and walked leisurely 
back to the ford, which she crossed with the assistance of 
the Arab who had saved her. 

What she was composed of I cannot say ; whether she 
was the offspring of a cross between mermaid and hip- 
popotamus, or hatched from the egg of a crocodile, I know 
not, but a more wonderfully amphibious being I have 
rarely seen. 

During this painful scene, in which one girl had been 



CHAP. XL] SEABCIl FOR THE BROWNED GIRL. \ 77 

entirely lost, the mother of her who was saved liacl rushed 
to meet her child as she landed from the ford ; but instead 
of clasping her to her heart, as we had expected, she gave 
her a maternal welcome by beating her most unmercifully 
with her fists, bestowing such lusty blows upon her back 
that we could distinctly hear them at a distance of fifty 
yards ; this punishment, we were given to understand, 
served her perfectly right, for having been foolish enough 
to venture near the rapids. The melancholy death-howl 
was now raised by all the women in the village, while the 
men explored the river in search of the missing body. 
On the following morning the sheik appeared at my tent, 
with a number of Arabs who had been unsuccessful, and 
he begged me, if possible, to suggest some means for the 
discovery of the girl, as her remains should be properly 
interred. 

I propQsed that they should procure a log of heavy 
wood, as near as possible the size of the girl, and that 
this should be thrown into the rapids, in the exact spot 
where she had disappeared ; this, being nearly the same 
weight, would be equally acted upon by the stream, and 
would form a guide which they should follow until it 
slk>uld lead them to some deep eddy, or whirlpool formed 
by a backwater; should the pilot log remain in such a 
spot, they would most probably find the body in the same 
place. The men immediately procured a log, and set off 
with the sheik himself to carry out the experiment. In 
the afternoon, we heard a terrible howling and crying, and 
a crowd of men and women returned to the village, some 
of whom paid us a visit ; they had found the body. The 
log had guided them about two miles distant, and had 
remained stationary in a backwater near where I had shot 
the bull hippopotamus; in this still pool, close to the 
bank, they almost immediately discovered the girl floating 
slightly beneath the surface. No crocodile had injured 
tlie body, but the fish had destroyed a portion of tlje face ; 
it was already so far advanced in decomposition, that it 
was necessary to bury it upon the margin of the river, at 
the spot where it was discovered. The people came to 
thank me for having originated the idea, and the very 

N 



1 78 THE SHEIK LAYS DOWN THE LAW. [chap. xi. 

agreeable slieik spent the evening with ns with a number 
of his people ; this was his greatest delight, and we had 
become thoroughly accustomed to his daily visits. At 
such times we sat upon an angarep, while he sat upon a 
mat stretched upon the ground, with a number of his men, 
who formed a half-circle around him ; he then invariably 
requested that we would tell him stories about England. 
Of these he never tired, and with the assistance of 
Mahomet we established a regular entertainment ; the 
great amusement of the Arabs being the mistakes that 
they readily perceived were made by Mahomet as inter- 
preter. We knew sufficient Arabic to check and to 
explain his errors. 

The death of the girl gave rise to a conversation upon 
drowning : this turned upon the subject of the girl herself, 
and ended in a discussion upon the value of women ; the 
question originating in a lament on the part of the sheik 
that a nice young girl had been drowned instead of a use- 
less old woman. The sheik laid down the law with great 
force, " that a woman was of no use when she ceased to 
be young, unless she was a good strong person who could 
grind corn, and carry water from the river ; " in this 
assertion he was seconded, and supported unanimously, 
by the crowd of Arabs present. 

Now it was always a common practice among the Arab 
women, when they called upon my wife, to request her 
to show her hands ; they would then feel the soft palms, 
and exclaim in astonishment, " Ah ! she has never ground 
corn ! " that being the duty of a wife unless she is rich 
enough to possess slaves. Sheik Achmet requested me to 
give him some account of our domestic arrangements in 
England ; I did this as briefly as possible, explaining how 
ladies received our devoted attentions, extolling their 
beauty and virtue, and in fact giving him an idea that 
England was paradise, and that the ladies were angels. I 
described the variety of colours ; that instead of all being 
dark, some were exceedingly fair ; that others had red 
hair ; that we had many bright black eyes, and some 
irresistible dark blue ; and at the close of my descriptions 
I believe the sheik and his party felt disposed to emigrate 



CHAP. XI.] TEE SHEirS IDEA OF MATRIMONY. \ 70 

immediately to the chilly shores of Great Britain; they 
asked, " How far off is your country ? " " Well," said the 
sheik, with a sigh, " that must be a very charming country; 
how could you possibly come away from all your beautiful 
wives ? True, you have brought one with you : she is, of 
course, the youngest and most lovely ; perhaps those you 
have left at home are the oltl ones I " I was obliged to 
explain, that we are contented with one wife, and that 
oven were people disposed to marry two, or more, they 
would be punished with imprisonment. This announce- 
ment was received with a general expression of indigna- 
tion ; the sheik and his party, who a few minutes ago were 
disposed to emigrate, and settle upon our shores, would 
now at the most have ventured upon a return ticket. 
After some murmurs of disapprobation, there was a 
decided expression of disbelief in my last statement. 
" Why," said the sheik, " the fact is simply imjjossible ! 
How can a man be contented with one wife ? It is 
ridiculous, absurd ! What is he to do Avhen she becomes 
old ? When she is young, if very lovely, perhaps, he 
might be satisfied with her, but even the young must 
some day grow old, and the beauty must fade. The man 
does not fade like the woman ; therefore, as he remains 
the same for many years, but she changes in a few years, 
Nature has arranged that the man shall have young wives 
to replace the old ; does not the Prophet allow it ? Had 
not our forefathers many wives ? and shall w^e have but 
one? Look at yourself Your wife is young, and" (here 
the sheik indulged in compliments), " but in ten years she 
will not be the same as now ; will you not then let her 
have a nice house all to herself, when she grows old, whOe 
you take a fresh young wife ? " 

I was obliged to explain to the sheik that, first, our 
ladies never looked old; secondly, they improved with 
age ; and thirdly, that we were supposed to love ,^our 
wives with greater ardour as they advanced in years. 
This was received with an ominous shake of the head, 
coupled with the exclamation, " Mashallah ! " repeated by 
the whole party. This was the moment for a few remarks 
on polygamy : I continued, " You men are selfish ; you 

n2 



180 THE DUTIES OF HIS FOUR WIVES. [chap. xi. 

expect from the woman that which you will not give in 
return, ' constancy and love ; ' if your wife demanded a 
multiplicity of husbands, would it not be impossible to 
love her ? how can she love you if you insist upon other 
wives ?" "Ah !" he replied, " our women are different to 
yours, they would not love anybody ; look at your wife, 
she has travelled with you far away from her own country, 
and her heart is stronger than a man's ; she is afraid of 
nothing, because you are with her ; but our women prefer 
to be far away from their husbands, and are only happy 
when they have nothing whatever to do. You don't un- 
derstand our women, they are ignorant creatures, and when 
their youth is past are good for nothing but to work. 
You have explained your customs; your women are 
adored by the men, and you are satisfied with one wife, 
either young or old; now I will explain our customs. 
I have four wives ; as one has become old, I have replaced 
her with a young one ; here they all are" (he now marked 
four strokes upon the sand with his stick). " This one 
carries water ; that grinds the corn ; this makes the bread ; 
the last does not do much, as she is the youngest, and my 
favourite ; and if they neglect their work, they get a taste 
of this ! " (shaking a long and tolerably thick stick). 
" Now, that's the difference between our establishments ; 
yours is well adapted for your country, and ours is the 
best plan for our own." 

I would not contradict the sheik ; the English great- 
coat was not the garment for the scorching Soudan, and 
English ideas were equally unsuited to the climate and 
requirements of the people. The girls were utterly 
ignorant, and the Arabs had never heard of a woman 
who could read and write ; they were generally pretty 
when young, but they rapidly grew old after childbirth. 
Numbers of young girls and women were accustomed 
to bathe perfectly naked in the river just before our 
tent ; I employed them to catch small fish for baits ; 
and for hours they would amuse themselves in this 
way, screaming with excitement and fun, and chasing 
the small fry with their long clothes in lieu 'of nets; 
their figures were generally well shaped, but both men 



CHAP. XI.] TEE ARAB FAKEERS OR PRIESTS. 181 

and women fell off in the development of tlie legs. Very 
few had well-shaped calves, but remarkably thin and 
cleanly formed ankles, with very delicately shaped feet. 
The men were constantly bathing in the clear waters of 
the Atbara, and were perfectly naked, althoiigli close to the 
women ; we soon became accustomed to this daily scene, as 
w^e do at Brighton and other English bathing-towns. 

Our life at Wat el Negur was anything but disagree- 
able ; we had acquired great fame in several ways : the 
game that I shot I divided among the people ; they also 
took an interest in the fishing, as they generally had a 
large share of all that I caught ; my wife was very kind 
to all the children, and to the women, who came from 
great distances to see her ; and my character as a 
physician having been spread far and wide, we became 
very celebrated people. Of course I was besieged daily 
by the maimed, the halt, and the blind, and the poor 
people, with much gratitude, would insist upon bringing 
fowls and milk in return for our attention to their 
wants. These I would never accept, but on many occa- 
sions, upon my refusal, the women would untie the legs 
of a bundle of chickens, and allow them to escape in our 
camp, rather than be compelled to return with their 
offering. Even the fakeers (priests) were our great friends, 
although we were Christians, and in my broken Arabic, 
with the assistance of Mahomet, I used to touch upon 
theological subjects. At lirst they expressed surprise 
that such clever people as the English should worship 
idols made of w^ood, or other substances, by the hands of 
man. I explained to them their error, as we were 
Protestants in England, who had protested against the 
practice of bowing down before the figure of Christ or any 
other form; that we simply worshipped God through 
Christ, believing Him to be both Saviour and Mediator. 
I recalled to their recollection that Mahomet and they 
themselves believed in Christ, as the greatest of all the 
prophets, therefore in reality there was not so very wide 
a gulf between their creed and our own ; both acknow- 
ledging the same God ; both believing in Christ, although 
differing in the degree of that belief. I allowed that 



/ 



182 ''ALL TEL SAME WITH A LITTLE DIFFERLXCLP 

Mahomet was a most wonderful man, and that, if a cause 
is to he valued hy its effect, he was as much entitled to 
the name of prophet as Closes, the first law-giver. Our 
arguments never became overheated, as these simple yet 
stedfast Arabs, who held the faith of their forefathers 
untarnished and uncorrupted by schisms, spoke more with 
reverence to the great spirit of religion, than with the 
acrimony of debate. " My brothers," I would reply, " we 
are all God's creatures, believing in the one great Spirit 
who created us and all things, who made this atom of 
dust that we call our world, a tiny star amongst the hosts 
of heaven; and we, differing in colours and in races, are 
stri^ang through our short but weary pilgrimage to the 
same high point ; to the same mountain-top, where we 
trust to meet when the journey shall be accomplished. 
That mountain is steep, the country is desert ; is there but 
one path, or are there many ? Your path and mine 
are different, but with God's help they will lead us 
to the top. Shall we quarrel over the well upon the 
thirsty way ? or shall we drink together, and be thankful 
for the cool waters, and strive to reach the end ? Drink 
from my water-skin when upon the desert we thirst 
together, scorched by the same sun, exhausted by the 
same simoom, cooled by the same night, until we sleep 
at the journey's end, and together thank God, Christian 
and Mahometan, that we have reached our home." 

The good fakeers rejoiced in such simple explanations, 
and they came to the conclusion that we were " all the 
same with a little difference," thus we were the best 
of friends with all the people. If not exactly a cure 
of their Mahometan souls, they acknowledged that I 
held the key to their bowels, which were entirely de- 
pendent upon my will, when the crowd of applicants 
daily thronged my medicine chest, and I dispensed jalap, 
calomel, opium, and tartar emetic. Upon one occasion 
a woman brought me a child of about fifteen months 
old, with a broken thigh ; she had fallen asleep upon 
her camel, and had allowed the child to fall from her 
arms. I set the thigh, and secured it with gum bandages, 
as the mimosas afforded the requisite material. About 



CHAP. XI. J THE CURE FOE FRENDEET. 183 

twenty yards of old linen in bandages three inches broad, 
soaked in thick gum-water, will form the best of splints 
when it becomes dry and hard, which in that climate 
it will do in about an hour. There was one complaint 
that I was obliged to leave entirely in the hands of 
the Arabs, this was called " frendeet ; " it was almost 
the certain effect of drinking the water that in the rainy 
season is accumulated in pools upon the surface of the rich 
table lands, especially between the Atbara and Katariff ; 
the latter is a market-town about sixty miles from Wat 
el IS'egur, on the west bank of the river. Frendeet com- 
mences with a swelling of one of the limbs, generally 
accompanied with intense pain ; this is caused by a worm 
of several feet in length, but no thicker than pack-thread. 
The Arab cure is to plaster the limb with cow-dung, which 
is their common application for almost all complaints. 
They then proceed to make what they term " doors," 
through which the worm will be able to escape ; but, 
should it not be able to find one exit, they make a great 
number by the pleasant and simple operation of pricking 
the skin in many places with a red-hot lance. In about a 
week after these means of escape are provided, one of the 
wounds will inflame, and assume the character of a small 
boil, from which the head of the worm will issue. This 
is then seized, and fastened either to a small reed or piece 
of w^ood, which is daily and most gently wound round, 
until, in the course of about a week, the entire worm will 
be extracted, unless broken during the operation, in which 
case severe inflammation will ensue. 

It was the 22d November, and the time was approach- 
ing when the grass throughout the entire country would 
e sufficiently dry to be fired ; we accordingly prepared 
for our expedition, and it was necessary to go to Katariff 
to engage men, and to procure a slave in the place of old 
Masara, whose owner would not trust her in the wild 
countries we were about to visit. We therefore mounted 
our horses, and in two days we reached Katariff, rather 
less than sixty miles distant. The journey was exceed- 
ingly uninteresting, as the route lay across the mono- 
tonous flats of rich table land, without a single object 



184 THE MARKET BAY. [chap. xi. 

to attract the attention, except the long line of villages 
which at intervals of about six miles lined the way. 
During the dry Aveather (the present season) there was 
not a drop of water in this country, except in wells 
far apart. Thus the cattle within twenty miles of the 
Atbara were driven every alternate day that great dis- 
tance to the river, as the wells would not supply the 
large herds of the Arabs ; although the animals could 
support life by drinking every alternate day, the cows 
were dry upon the day of fasting ; this proved a certain 
amount of suffering. 

Upon arrival at Katariff we were hospitably received 
by a Greek merchant, Michel Georgis, a nephew of the 
good old man from whom we had received much attention 
while at Cassala. The town was a miserable place, com- 
posed simply of the usual straw huts of the Arabs; the 
market, or ''Soog," was bi-v/eekly. Katariff was also 
known by the name of " Soog Abou Sinn." 

I extract an entry from my journal. — "The bazaar 
held here is most original. Long rows of thatched open 
sheds, about six feet high, form a street ; in these sheds 
the dealers squat with their various wares exposed on 
the ground before them. In one, are Manchester goods, 
the calicoes are printed in England, with the name of 
the Greek merchant to whom they are consigned; in 
another, is a curious collection of small wares, as though 
samples of larger quantities, but in reality they are the 
dealer's whole stock of sundries, which he deals out 
to numerous purchasers in minute lots, for paras and 
half piastres, ginger, cloves, chills, cardamoms, pepper, 
turmeric, orris root, saffron, sandal-wood, musk, a species 
of moss that smells like patchouli, antimony for colouring 
the eyes and lips, henna, glass beads, cowrie shells, steels 
for striking fire, &c. &c. Other stalls contain sword- 
ijlades, files, razors, and other hardware, all of German 
manufacture, and of the most rubbishing kind. Mingled 
with these, in the same stall, are looking-glasses, three 
inches square, framed in coloured paper ; slippers, sandals, 
&c. Other sheds contain camel ropes and bells, saddlery 
of all descriptions that are in general use, shoes, &c. ; but 



c HAP. XI.] SCENES AT THE FAIR. 185 

the most numerous stalls are those devoted to red pepper, 
beads, and perfumery." 

Beyond the main street of straw booths are vendors 
of miscellaneous goods, squatting under temporary fan- 
shaped straw screens, wliich are rented at the rate of 
five paras per day (about a farthing) ; beneath these may 
be seen vendors of butter and other grease, contained in 
a large jar by their side, while upon a stone before them 
are arranged balls of fat which are sold at five paras a 
lumj). Each morsel is about the size of a cricket-ball : 
this is supposed to be the smallest quantity required for 
one dressing of the hair. Other screens are occupied 
by dealers in ropes, mats, leathern bags, girbas or water- 
skins, gum sacks, beans, waker, salt, sugar, coffee, &c. &c. 
Itinerant smiths are at work, making knife-blades, re- 
pairing spears, &c. with small boys working the bellows, 
formed of simple leathern bags that open and close by 
the pressure of two sticks. The object that draws a 
crowd around him is a professional story-teller, w^onder- 
fuUy witty, no doubt, as, being mounted upon a camel 
from which he addresses his audience, he provokes roars 
of merriment ; his small eyes, overhanging brow, large 
mouth, with thin and tightly compressed lips and deeply 
dimpled cheeks, combined with an unlimited amount of 
brass, completed a picture of professional shrewdness. 

Camels, cattle, and donkeys are also exposed for sale. 
The average price for a baggage camel is twelve dollars ; 
a hygeen, from thirty to sixty dollars ; a fat ox, from six 
to ten dollars (the dollar at four shillings). 

Katariff is on the direct merchants' route from Cassala 
to Khartoum. The charge for transport is accordingly 
low ; a camel loaded with six cantars (600 lbs.) from 
this spot to Cassala, can be hired for one dollar, and 
from thence to Souakim, on the Ked Sea, for five dollars ; 
thus all produce is delivered from Katariff to the shipping 
port, at a charge of four shillings per hundred pounds. 
Cotton might be grown to any extent on this magni- 
ficent soil, and would pay the planter a large profit, 
were regular steam communication established at a rea- 
sonable rate betw^een Souakim and Suez. 



186 ^:R^B superstitions. [chap. XL 

There is a fine grey limestone in tlie neighbourhood of 
Katariff. The collection of people is exceedingly interest- 
ing upon a market day, as Arabs of all tribes, Tokrooris, 
and some few Abyssinians, concentrate from distant 
points. Many of tlie Arab women would be exceedingly 
pretty were their beauty not destroyed by their custom of 
gashing the cheeks in three wounds upon either side ; 
this is inflicted during infancy. Scars are considered 
ornamental, and some of the women are much disfigured 
by such marks upon their arms and backs ; even the men, 
without exception, are scarified upon their cheeks. The 
inhabitants of Kordofan and Darfur, who are generally 
prized as slaves, are invariably marked, not only Avith 
simple scars, but by cicatrices raised high above the 
natural surface by means of salt rubbed into the wounds ; 
these unsightly deformities are considered to be great 
personal attractions. The Arab women are full of absurd 
superstitions ; should a woman be in an interesting con- 
dition, she will creep under the body of a strong camel, 
believing that the act of passing between the fore and 
hind legs will endue her child with the strength of the 
animal. Young infants are scored with a razor longi- 
tudinally down the back and abdomen, to improve their 
constitutions. 

I engaged six strong Tokrooris — natives of Darfur — 
who agreed to accompany me for five months. These 
people are a tribe of Mahometan negroes, of whom I shall 
speak more hereafter ; they are generally very powerful 
and courageous, and I preferred a few men of this race 
to a party entirely composed of Arabs. Our great diffi- 
culty was to procure a slave woman to grind the corn and 
to make the bread for the people. 

No proprietor would let his slave on hire to go upon 
such a journey, and it was impossible to start without 
one ; the only resource was to purchase the freedom of 
some woman, and to engage her as a servant for the trip. 
Even this was difficult, as slaves were scarce and in great 
demand : however, at last I heard of a man who had a 
Galla slave who was clever at making bread, as it had 
been her duty to make cakes for sale in the bazaar upon 



CHAP. XI.] THE GALLA SLAVE. 187 

market days. After some delays I succeeded in obtaining an 
interview with both the master and slave at the same time ; 
the former was an Arab, hard at dealing, but, as I did not 
wish to drive a bargain, I agreed to the price, thirty-hve 
dollars, 11. The name of the woman was Barrakc ; she 
was about twenty-two years of age, brown in con\plexion, 
fat, and strono- ; rather tall, and alto2;ether she was a fine 
powerful-looking woman, but decidedly not pretty ; her 
hair was elaborately dressed in hundreds of long narrow 
curls, so thickly smeared with castor oil that the grease 
had covered her naked shoulders ; in addition to this, as 
she had been recently rmder the hands of the hairdresser, 
there was an amount of fat and other nastiness upon her 
head that gave her the appearance of being nearly grey. 

I now counted out thirty-five dollars, which I placed in 
two piles upon the table, and through the medium of 
Mahomet I explained to her that she was no longer a 
slave, as that sum had purchased her freedom; at the 
same time, as it was a large amount that I had paid, I 
expected she would remain with us as a servant until our 
journey should be over, at which time she should receive 
a certain sum in money, as wages at the usual rate. 
Mahomet did not agree with this style of address to a 
slave, therefore he slightly altered it in the translation, 
which I at once detected. The woman looked friohtened 
and uneasy at the conclusion; I immediately asked 
Mahomet what he had told her. " Same like master tell 
to me ! " replied the indignant Mahomet. " Then have 
the kindness to repeat to me in English what you said to 
her," ] replied. "I tell that slave woman same like 
master's word ; I tell her master one very good master, 
she Barrake one very bad woman ; all that good dollars 
master pay, too much money for such a bad woman. Now 
she's master's slave ; she belong to master like a dog ; if 
she not make plenty of good bread, work hard all day, 
early morning, late in night, master take a big stick, break 
her head." 

This w^as the substance of a translation of my address 
tinged with Mahomet's colouring, as being more adapted 
for the ears of a slave 1 My wife was present, and being 



188 SIXGULAR mSUNDERSTAXBIXG. [chap. xi. 

much annoyed, we both assured the woman that Mahomet 
was wrong, and I insisted upon his explaining to her 
literally that " no Englishman could hold a slave ; that 
the money I had paid rendered her entirely free ; that she 
would not even be compelled to remain with us, but she 
could do as she thought proper ; that both her mistress 
and I should be exceedingly kind to her, and we would 
subsequently find her a good situation in Cairo ; in the 
meantime she would receive good clothes and wages." 
This, ]\Iahomet, much against his will, was obliged to 
translate literally. The effect was magical; the woman, 
who had looked frightened and unhappy, suddenly beamed 
with smiles, and without any warning she ran towards me, 
and in an instant I found myself embraced in her loving 
arms ; she pressed me to her bosom, and smothered me 
with castor oily kisses, while her greasy ringlets hung 
upon my face and neck. How long this entertainment 
would have lasted I cannot tell, but I was obliged to cry 
" Caffa ! Caffa ! " (enough ! enough !) as it looked improper, 
and the perfumery was too rich ; fortunately my wife was 
present, but she did not appear to enjoy it more than I 
did; my snow-white blouse was soiled and greasy, and 
for' the rest of the day I was a disagreeable compound of 
smells, castor oil, tallow, musk, sandal-wood, burnt shells, 
and Barrake. 

Mahomet and Barrake herself, I believe, were the only 
people who really enjoyed this little event. " Ha 1" 
Mahomet exclaimed, " this is your own fault ! You in- 
sisted upon speaking kindly, and telling her that she is 
not a slave, now she thinks that she is one of your 
wives! " This was the real fact ; the unfortunate Barrake 
had deceived herself; never having been free, she could 
not understand the use of freedom unless she was to be a 
wife. She had understood my little address as a proposal, 
and of course she was disappointed ; but, as an action for 
breach of promise cannot be pressed in the Soudan, poor 
Barrake, although free, had not the happy rights of a free- 
born Englishwoman, who can heal her broken heart with a 
pecuniary plaster, and console herself with damages for 
the loss of a lover. 



CHAP. XL] MEK NIMMUR INKiBES THE FRONTIER. 189 

We were ready to start, having our party of servants 
complete, six Tokrooris — Moosa, Abdoolahi, Abderaclmian, 
Hassan, Adow, and Hadji Ali, with Mahomet, Wat 
Gamma, Bacheet, Mahomet semndus (a groom), and 
Barrak^ ; total eleven men and the cook. 

When half way to Wat el Negnr, we fonnd the whole 
country in alarm, Mek Nimmur having suddenly made a 
foray. He had crossed the Atbara, and plundered the 
district, and driven off large numbers of cattle and camels, 
after having killed a considerable number of people. No 
doubt the reports were somewhat exaggerated, but the in- 
habitants of the district were flying from their villages, 
with their herds, and were flocking to Katariff. We 
arrived at Wat el Negur on the 3d of December, and we 
now felt the advantage of our friendship with the good 
Sheik Achmet, who, being a friend of Mek ISTimmur, had 
saved our effects during our absence ; these would other- 
wise have been plundered, as the robbers had paid him a 
visit ; — he had removed our tents and baggage to his own 
house for protection, i^ot only had he thus protected our 
effects, but he had taken the opportunity of delivering the 
polite message to Mek Nimmur that I had entrusted to 
his charge — expressing a wish to pay him a visit as a 
countryman and friend of Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who 
had formerly been so well received by his father. 

In a lew days the whole country was up. Troops of 
the Dabaina Arabs, under the command of Mahmoud 
Wat Said (who had now assumed the chieftainship of the 
tribe after the death of his brother Atalan), gathered on 
the frontier, while about 2,000 Egyptian regulars marched 
against Gellabat, and attacked the Abyssinians and 
Tokrooris, who had united. Several hundreds of the 
Tokrooris were killed, and the Abyssinians retreated to 
the mountains. Large bodies of Egyptian irregulars 
threatened Mek Nimmur's country, but the wily Mek was 
too much for them. The Jalyn Arabs were his friends ; 
and, although they paid tribute to the Egyptian Govern- 
ment from their frontier villages, they acted as spies, and 
kept Mek Nimmur a?t conratit of the enemy's movements. 
The Hamran Arabs, those mighty hunters with the sword, 



190 INSECURITY OF THE COUNTRY. [chap. xi. 

were thorougli Ishmaelites, and although nominally subject 
to Egypt, they were well known as secret friends to Mek 
Mmmur ; and it was believed that they conveyed infor- 
mation of the localities where the Dabaina and Shookerjdia 
Arabs had collected their herds. Upon these Mek Mmmur 
had a knack of pouncing unexpectedly, when he was sup- 
posed to be a hundred miles in an opposite direction. 

The dry weather had introduced a season of anarchy 
along the whole frontier. The Atbara was fordabie in 
many places, and it no longer formed the impassable 
barrier that necessitated peace. Mek Mmmur (the 
Leopard King) showed the cunning and ability of his 
namesake by pouncing upon his prey without a moment's 
warning, and retreating with equal dexterity. This 
frontier warfare, skilfully conducted by Mek Mmmur, was 
most advantageous to Theodorus, the King of Abyssinia, as 
the defence of the boundary was maintained against Egypt 
by a constant guerilla warfare. Upon several occasions, 
expeditions on a large scale had been organized against 
Mek Mmmur by the Governor- General of the Soudan ; 
but they had invariably failed, as he retreated to the inac- 
cessible mountains, where he had beaten them with loss, 
and they had simply wreaked their vengeance by burning 
the deserted villages of straw huts in the low lands, that a 
few dollars would quickly rebuild. Mek Mmmur was a 
most unpleasant neighbour to the Egyptian Government, 
and accordingly he was a great friend of the King Theo- 
dorus ; he was, in fact, a shield that protected the heart of 
Abyssinia. 

As I have already described, the Base were always at 
war with everybody ; and as Mek Mnmiur and the 
Abyssinians were constantly fighting with the Egyptians, 
the passage of the Atbara to the east bank was the com- 
mencement of a territory where the sword and lance re- 
presented the only law. The Hamran Arabs dared not 
venture with their flocks farther east than Geera, on the 
Settite, about twenty-five miles from Wat el Negur. Erom 
the point of junction of the Settite with the Atbara, 
opposite Tomat to Geera, they were now encamped with 
their herds upon the borders of the river for the dry 



CHAF. XI.] MEK NIMMUR SENDS HIS COMPLIMENTS 1 9 1 

season. I sent a messenger to their sheik, Owat, accom- 
panied by Mahomet, with the firman of the Viceroy, and I 
requested him to supply me with elephant-hunters (agga- 
geers) and guides to accompany me into the Base and Mek 
Nimmur's country. 

My intention was to thoroughly examine all the great 
rivers of Abyssinia that were tributaries to the Nile. 
These were the Settite, Eoyan, Angrab, Salaam, Eahad, 
Dinder, and the Blue Nile. If possible, I should traverse 
the Galla country, and crossing the Blue Nile, I shoukl 
endeavour to reach the White Nile. But this latter idea I 
subsequently found impracticable, as it would have inter- 
fered with the proper season for my projected journey up 
the White Nile in search of the sources. 

During the absence of Mahomet, I received a very polite 
message from Mek Nimmur, accompanied by a present of 
twenty pounds of coffee, with an invitation to pay him a 
visit. His country lay between the Settite river and the 
Bahr Salaam ; thus without his invitation I might have 
found it difficult to traverse his territory ; — so far, all went 
well. T returned my salaams, and sent word that we in- 
tended to hunt through the Base country, after which we 
should have the honour of passing a few days with him on 
our road to the river Salaam, at which place we intended 
to hunt elephants and rhinoceros. 

Mahomet returned, accompanied by a large party of 
Hamran Arabs, including several hunters, one of whom 
was Sheik Abou Do Eoussoul, the nephew of Sheik 
Owat ; as his name in full was too long, he generally went 
by the abbreviation "Abou Do." He was a splendid 
fellow, a little above six feet one, with a light active 
figure, but exceedingly well developed muscles : his face 
was strikingly handsome ; his eyes were like those of a 
giraffe, but the sudden glance of an eagle lighted them up 
with a flash during the excitement of conversation, which 
showed little of the giraffe's gentle character. Abou Do 
was the only tall man of the party, the others were of 
middle height, with the exception of a little fellow named 
Jali, who was not above five feet four inches, but wonder- 
fully muscular, and in expression a regular daredevil. 



192 THE AGGAGEERS. [chap. xi. 

There were two parties of hunters, one nncler Abou Do, 
and the other consisting of four brothers Sherrif. The 
latter were the most celebrated aggageers among the re- 
nowned tribe of the Hamran ; their father and grandfather 
had been mighty Mmrods, and the broadswords wielded 
by their strong arms had descended to the men who now 
upheld the prestige of the ancient blades. The eldest w^as 
Taher Sherrif; his second brother, Eoder Sherrif, was a 
very small, active-looking man, with a withered left arm. 
An elephant had at one time killed his horse, and on the 
same occasion had driven its sharp tusk through the arm of 
the rider, completely splitting the limb, and splintering the 
bone from the elbow-joint to the wrist to such an extent, 
that by degrees the fragments had sloughed away, and the 
arm had become shrivelled and withered. It now resem- 
bled a mass of dried leather, twisted into a deformity, 
without the slightest shape of an arm ; this was about 
fourteen inches in length from the shoulder ; the stiff and 
crippled hand, with contracted fingers, resembled the claw 
of a vulture. 

In spite of his maimed condition, Eoder Sherrif was the 
most celebrated leader in the elephant hunt. His was the 
dangerous post to ride close to the head of the infuriated 
animal and provoke the charge, and then to lead the 
elephant in pursuit, while the aggageers attacked it from 
behind ; it was in the performance of this duty that he 
had met with the accident, as his horse had fallen over 
some hidden obstacle, and was immediately caught. Being 
an exceedingly light weight he had continued to occupy 
this important position in the hunt, and the rigid fingers of 
the left hand served as a hook, upon which he could hang 
the reins. 

My battery of rifles was now laid upon a mat for 
examination ; they were in beautiful condition, and they 
excited the admiration of the entire party. The perfection 
of workmanship did not appear to interest them so much 
as the size of the bores ; they thrust their fingers down 
each muzzle, until they at last came to the " Baby," when, 
finding that two fingers could be easily introduced, they at 
or 06 fell in love with that rifle in particular. My men 



CHAP. XI.] MIXTURE FOR BULLETS. 193 

explained that it was a " Jenna el Mootfah " (child of a 
cannon). " Sahe, Jenna el Mootfah kabeer," they replied 
(it is true, it is the child of a very big cannon). Their de- 
light was made perfect by the exhibition of the half-pound 
explosive shell, the effects of which were duly explained. 
I told them that I was an old elephant hunter, but that I 
did not hunt for the sake of the ivory, as I wished to ex- 
plore the country to discover the cause of the Nile inun- 
dations, therefore I wished to examine carefully the various 
Abyssinian rivers ; but as I had heard they were wonder- 
ful sportsmen, I should like them to join my party, and we 
could both hunt and explore together. They replied that 
they knew every nook and corner of the entire country as 
far as Mek Nimmur's and the Base, but that in the latter 
country we must be prepared to fight, as they made a 
practice of showing no quarter to the Bas^, because they 
received none from them ; thus we should require a strong 
party. I pointed to my rifles, v/hich I explained were 
odds against the Base, who were without fire-arms ; and 
we arranged to start together on the 17th of December. 

In the interval I was busily engaged in making bullets 
for the journey, with an admixture of one pound of 
quicksilver to twelve of lead. This hardens the bullet at 
the same time that it increases the weight, but great caution 
must be observed in the manufacture, as the mercury, being 
heavier than the lead, will sink to the bottom, unless 
stirred with a red-hot iron when mixed. The admixture 
must take place in small quantities, otherwise the quick- 
silver will evaporate if exposed to a gxeat heat. Thus the 
molten lead should be kept upon the fire in a large reser- 
voir, while a portion of quicksilver should be added regu- 
larly to every ladleful taken for immediate use. This 
should be well stirred before it is poured into the mould. 
Bullets formed of this mixture of metals are far superior to 
any others. 

My preparations for the journey were soon completed. 
We had passed a most agreeable time at Wat el Negur. 
Although I had not had much shooting, I gained much 
experience in the country, having made several extensive 
journeys in the neighbourhood, and our constant conversa- 

o 



194 FLORIAN'S HUNTER. [chap. xr. 

tions with the sheik had somewhat improved my Arabic. 
I had discovered several plants hitherto unknown to me, — 
among others, a peculiar bulb, from which I had prepared 
excellent arrowroot. This produced several tubers resem- 
bling sweet potatoes, but exceedingly long and thin ; it 
was known by the Arabs as " baboon." I pierced with a 
nail a sheet of tin from the lining of a packing case, and 
quickly improvised a grater, upon which I reduced the 
bulb to pulp. This I washed in water, and when strained 
through cotton cloth, it was allowed to settle for several 
hours. The clear water was then poured off, and the thick 
sediment, when dried in the sun, became arrowroot of the 
best quality. The Arabs had no idea of this preparation, 
but simply roasted the roots on the embers. 

On the 17th of August, 1861, accompanied by the 
German Florian, we started from Wat el Eegur, and 
said good-bye to our very kind friend, Sheik Achmet, 
who insisted upon presenting us with a strong but ex- 
ceedingly light angarep (bedstead), suitable for camel 
travelling, and an excellent water-skin, that we should 
be constantly reminded of him, night and day. 

Florian was in a weak condition, as he had suffered 
much from fever throughout the rainy season. He started 
under disadvantageous circumstances, as he had purchased 
a horse that was a bad bargain. The Arabs, who are sharp 
practitioners, had dealt hardly w^ith him, as they had 
sold him a wretched brute that could make no other use 
of its legs than to kick. Of course they had imposed 
upon poor Florian a long history of how this horse in 
a giraffe hunt had been the first at the death, &c. &c., 
and he, the deceived, had promised to shoot a hippopo- 
tamus to give them in barter. This he had already done, 
and he had exchanged a river horse, worth twenty dollars, 
for a terrestrial horse, worth twenty piastres. 

Florian had never mounted a horse in his lifetime 
as his shooting had always been on foot. This he now 
explained to us, although the confession was quite un- 
necessary, as his first attempt at mounting was made 
upon the wrong side. 

Throughout his journey to Geera on the Settite, there 



CHAP. XI.] ARRIVE AT GEERA. 195 

was a constant difference of opinion between him and 
his new purchase, until we suddenly heard a heavy fall. 
Upon looking back, I perceived Florian like a spread 
eagle on his stomach upon the ground, lying before the 
horse, who was quietly looking at his new master. On 
another occasion, I heard a torrent of abuse expressed 
in German, and upon turning round I found him clinging 
to the neck of his animal, having lost both stirrups, while 
his rifle had fallen to the ground. He was now cursing 
his beast, whom he accused of wilful murder, for having 
replied by a kick to a slight tap he had administered 
with a stick. I could not help suggesting that he would 
find it aw^kward should he be obliged to escape from an 
elephant upon that animal in rough and difficult ground 
where good riding would be essential; and he declared 
that nothing should tempt hiin either to hunt or to escape 
from any beast on horseback, as he would rather trust to 
his legs. 

Upon arriving at Geera, we bivouacked upon the sandy 
bed of the river, which had much changed in appearance 
since our last visit. Although much superior to the 
Atbara, the stream was confined to a deep channel about 
120 yards wide, in the centre of the now dry bed of 
rounded pebbles and sand. Exactly opposite were ex- 
tensive encampments of the Hamran Arabs, who were 
congregated in thousands between this point and the 
Atbara junction. Their limit for pasturage was about 
six miles up stream from Geera, beyond which point 
they dare not trust their flocks on account of their 
enemies, the Base. 

We were immediately visited, upon our arrival, by a 
number of Arabs, including the Sheik Abou Do, from 
whom I purchased two good milk goats to accompany 
us upon our journey. I had already procured one at 
Wat el Negur in exchange for a few strips of hippo- 
potamus hide for making whips. 

Lions were roaring all night close to our sleeping place ; 
there were many of these animals in this neighbourhood, 
as they were attracted by the flocks of the Arabs. 

On the following morning, at daybreak, several Arabs 
2 



196 FOLLOW A HERD OF ELEPHANTS. [chap. xi. 

arrived with a report that elephants had been drinking 
in the river within half an hour's march of our sleeping 
place. I immediately started with my men, accompanied 
by Florian, and we shortly arrived upon the tracks of 
the herd. I had three Hamran Arabs as trackers, one 
of whom, Taher Noor, had engaged to accompany us 
throughout the expedition. 

For about eight miles we followed the spoor through 
high-dried grass and thorny bush, until w^e at length 
arrived at dense jungle of kittar, — the most formidable 
of the hooked thorn mimosas. Here the tracks appeared 
to wander ; some elephants having travelled straight 
ahead, while others had strayed to the right and left. 
While engaged in determining the path of the herd, we 
observed four giraffes at about half a mile distant, but 
they had already perceived us, and were in full flight. 
For about two hours we travelled upon the circuitous 
tracks of the elephants to no purpose, when we suddenly 
were startled by the shrill trumpet of one of these 
animals in the thick thorns, a few hundred yards to 
our left. The ground was so intensely hard and dry 
that it was impossible to distinguish the new tracks 
from the old, which crossed and recrossed in all directions. 
I therefore decided to walk carefully along the outskirts 
of the jungle, trusting to find their place of entrance 
by the fresh broken boughs. In about an hour we had 
thus examined two or three miles, vdthout discovering 
a clue to their recent path, when we turned round a 
clump of bushes, and suddenly came in view of two 
grand elephants, standing at the edge of the dense 
thorns ; having our wind, they vanished instantly into 
the thick jungle. We could not follow them, as their 
course was down wind; we therefore made a circuit to 
leeward for about a mile, and, finding that the elephants 
had not crossed in that direction, we felt sure that we 
must come upon them with the wind in our favour 
should they still be within the thorny jungle ; this was 
certain, as it was their favourite retreat. 

With the greatest labour I led the way, creeping fre- 
quently upon my hands and knees to avoid the hooks 



CHAP. XI.] A TREMENDOUS CRASH. 197 

of the kittar bush, and occasionally listening for a sound. 
At length, after upwards of an hour passed in this slow 
and fatiguing advance, I distinctly heard the flap of an 
elephant's ear, shortly followed by the deep guttural sigh 
of one of those animals, within a few paces, but so dense 
was the screen of jungle that I could see nothing. We 
waited for some minutes, but not the slightest sound 
could be heard ; the elephants were aware of danger, 
and they were, like ourselves, listening attentively for 
the first intimation of an enemy. This was a highly 
exciting moment ; should they charge, there would not 
be a possibility of escape, as the hooked thorns rendered 
any sudden movement almost impracticable. In another 
moment, there was a tremendous crash ; and, with a sound 
like a whirlwind, the herd dashed through the crackling 
jungle. I rushed forward, as I was uncertain whether 
they were in advance or retreat ; leaving a small sample 
of my nose upon a kittar thorn, and tearing my way, 
with naked arms, through what, in cold blood, would 
have appeared impossible, I caught sight of two elephants 
leading across my path, with the herd following in a 
dense mass behind them. Firing a shot at the leading 
elephant, simply in the endeavour to check the herd, 
I repeated with the left-hand barrel at the head of his 
companion ; this staggered him, and threw the main body 
into confusion : they immediately closed up in a dense 
mass, and bore everything before them, but the herd 
exhibited merely an impenetrable array of hind quarters 
wedged together so firmly that it was impossible to obtain 
a head or shoulder shot. I was within fifteen paces of 
them, and so compactly were they packed, that mth 
all their immense strength they could not at once force 
so extensive a front through the tough and powerful 
branches of the dense kittar. For about half a minute 
they were absolutely checked, and they bored forward 
with all their might in their determination to open a 
road through the matted thorns : the elastic boughs, bent 
from their position, sprang back with dangerous force, 
and would have fractured the skuU of any one who came 
within their sweep. A very large elephant was on the 



198 A CRITICAL POSITION. [chap. xi. 

left flank, and for an instant tliis turned obliquely to 
the left ; I quickly seized the opportunity and fired the 
"Baby," with an explosive shell, aimed far back in the 
flank, trusting that it would penetrate beneath the oppo- 
site shoulder. The recoil of the "Baby," loaded with 
ten drachms of the strongest powder and a half-pound 
shell, spun me round like a top — it was difficult to say 
which was staggered the most severely, the elephant or 
myself; however, we both recovered, and I seized one 
of my double rifles, a Eeilly l^To. 10, that was quickly 
pushed into my hand by my Tokroori, Hadji Ali. This 
was done just in time, as an elephant from the baffled 
herd turned sharp round, and, with its immense ears 
cocked, it charged down upon us with a scream of rage. 
" One of us she must have if I miss ! " 

This was the first downright charge of an African 
elephant that I had seen, and instinctively I followed 
my old Ceylon plan of waiting for a close shot. She 
lowered her head when within about six yards, and I 
fired low for the centre of the forehead, exactly in the 
swelling above the root of the trunk. She collapsed to 
the shot, and fell dead, with a heavy shock, upon the 
ground. At the same moment, the thorny barrier gave 
way before the pressure of the herd, and the elephants 
disappeared in the thick jungle, through which it was 
impossible to follow them. 

I had suffered terribly from the hooked thorns, and 
the men likewise. This had been a capital trial for my 
Tokrooris, who had behaved remarkably well, and had 
gained much confidence by my successful forehead shot 
at the elephant when in full charge ; but I must confess 
that this is the only instance in which I have succeeded 
in killing an African elephant by the front shot, although 
I have steadily tried the experiment upon subsequent 
occasions. 

Florian had not had an opportunity of firing a shot, 
as I had been in his way, and he could not pass on 
one side owing to the thorns. 

We had very little time to examine the elephant, as we 
were far from home, and the sun was already low. I felt 



CHAP. XI.] THE HALF-POUND EXPLOSIVE SHELL 199 

convinced that the other elephant could not be far off, 
after having received the " Baby's " half-pound shell care- 
fully directed, and I resolved to return on the following 
morning with many people and camels to divide the flesh. 
It was dark by the time we arrived at the tents, and the 
news immediately spread through the Arab camp that 
two elephants had been killed. 

On the following morning we started, and, upon arrival 
at the dead elephant, we followed the tracks of that 
wounded by the "Baby." The blood upon the bushes 
guided us in a few minutes to the spot where the elephant 
lay dead, at about 300 yards' distance. The whole day 
passed in flaying the two animals, and cutting off the 
flesh, which was packed in large gum sacks, with which 
the camels were loaded. I was curious to examine the 
effect of the half-pound shell : it had entered the flank on 
the right side, breaking the rib upon which it had exploded ; 
it had then passed through the stomach and the lower 
portion of the lungs, both of which were terribly shat- 
tered, and breaking one of the fore-ribs on the left side, 
it had lodged beneath the skin of the shoulder. This was 
irresistible work, and the elephant had evidently dropped 
in a few minutes after having received the shell. 

The conical bullet of quicksilver and lead, propelled by 
seven drachms of powder, had entered the exact centre of 
the forehead of the elephant JSTo. 1, and, having passed 
completely through the brain and the back part of the 
skull, we found it sticking fast in the spine, between the 
shoidclers. These No. 10 Eeillys* were wonderfully power- 
ful rifles, and exceedingly handy ; they weighed fourteen 
pounds, and were admirably adapted for dangerous game. 
I measured both the elephants accurately with a tape : 
that killed by the " Baby " w^as nine feet six inches from 
the forefoot to the shoulder, the other was eight feet three 
inches. It is a common mistake that twice the circum- 
ference of the foot is the height of an elephant ; there is no 
such rule that can be depended upon, as their feet vary 

* They are now in England at Mr. Reilly's, No. 215, Oxford Street, 
having accompanied me thronghout my expedition, and they have never 
been out of order. 



200 FRATERNIZE WITH THE SWORD HUNTERS, [chap. xi. 

in size without any relative proportion to the height of the 
animal. 

A most interesting fact had occurred : when I found 
the larger elephant, killed by the " Baby," I noticed 
an old wound unhealed and full of matter in the front 
of the left shoulder; the bowels were shot through, and 
were green in various places. Florian suggested that 
it must be an elephant that I had wounded at Wat el 
Negur ; we tracked the course of the bullet most carefully, 
until we at length discovered my unmistakeable bullet of 
quicksilver and lead, almost uninjured, in the fleshy part 
of the thigh, imbedded in an unhealed wound. Thus, by 
a curious chance, upon my first interview with African 
elephants by daylight, I had killed the identical elephant 
that I had wounded at Wat el ISTegur forty-three days 
ago in the dhurra plantation, twenty-eight miles distant ! 
Both these elephants were females. It was the custom of 
these active creatures to invade the dhurra fields from this 
great distance, and to return to these almost impenetrable 
thorny jungles, where they were safe from the attack of 
the aggageers, but not from the rifles. 

On our return to camp, the rejoicings were great ; the 
women yelled as usual, and I delighted the Hamrans 
by dividing the meat, and presenting them with the 
hides for shields. I gave Abou Do, and all the hunters, 
and my camel drivers, large quantities of fat ; and I found 
that I was accredited as a brother hunter by the knights 
of the sword, who acknowledged that their weapons were 
useless in the thick jungles of Tooleet, the name of the 
place where we had killed the elephants. 




CHAPTEK XIL 



OLD NEPTUNE JOINS THE PARTY. 



"We started from Geera, on the 23d of December, witli 
our party complete. The Hamran sword-hunters were 
Abou Do, Jali and Suleiman. My chief tracker was 
Taher Noor, who, although a good hunter, was not a 
professional aggahr, and I was accompanied by the father 
of Abou Do, who was a renowned " howarti," or harpooner 
of hippopotami. This magnificent old man might have 
been Neptune himself; he stood about six feet two, and 
his grizzled locks hung upon his shoulders in thick and 
massive curls, while his deep bronze features could not 
have been excelled in beauty of outline. A more classical 
figure I have never beheld than the old Abou Do with his 
harpoon, as he first breasted the torrent, and then landed 
dripping from the waves to join our party from the Arab 
camp on the opposite side of the river. In addition to my 
Tokrooris, I had engaged nine camels, each with a separate 
driver, of the Hamrans, who were to accompany us 
throughout the expedition. These people were glad to 
engage themselves, with their camels included, at one and 
a half dollars (six shillings) per month, for man and beast 
as one. We had not sufficient baggage to load five camels, 
but four carried a large supply of corn for our horses and 
people. 

Hardly were we mounted and fairly started, than the 
monkey-like agility of our aggageers was displayed in a 
variety of antics, that were far more suited to performance 
in a circus than to a party of steady and experienced 
hunters, who wished to reserve the strength of their horses 
for a trying journey. 

Abou Do was mounted on a beautiful Abyssinian horse, 
a grey ; Suleiman rode a rough and inferior-looking beast ; 
while little Jali, who was the pet of the party, rode a grey 



202 WILD ARAB HOUSEMANSHIP. [chap. xii. 

mare, not exceeding fourteen hands in height, which 
matched her rider exactly in lire, spirit, and speed. ISTever 
was there a more perfect picture of a wild Arab horseman 
than Jali on his mare. Hardly was he in the saddle, than 
away flew the mare over the loose shingles that formed 
the dry bed of the river, scattering the rounded pebbles in 
the air from her flinty hoofs, while her rider in the vigour 
of delight threw himself almost under her belly while at 
full speed, and picked up stones from the ground, which 
he flung, and again caught as they descended. JSTever 
were there more complete Centaurs than these Hamran 
Arabs ; the horse and man appeared to be one animal, 
and that of the most elastic nature, that could twist and 
turn with the suppleness of a snake; the fact of their 
being separate beings was proved by the rider springing 
to the earth with his drawn sword while the horse was in 
full gallop over rough and difficult ground, and clutching 
the mane, he again vaulted into the saddle with the agility 
of a monkey, without once checking the speed. The fact 
of being on horseback had suddenly altered the character 
of these Arabs ; from a sedate and proud bearing, they had 
become the wildest examples of the most savage disciples 
of Mmrod ; excited by enthusiasm, they shook their naked 
blades aloft till the steel trembled in their grasp, and 
away they dashed over rocks, through thorny bush, across 
ravines, up and down steep inclinations, engaging in a 
mimic hunt, and going through the various acts supposed 
to occur in the attack of a furious elephant. I must 
acknowledge that, in spite of my admiration for their 
wonderful dexterity, I began to doubt their prudence. I 
had three excellent horses for my wife and myself ; the 
Hamran hunters had only one for each ; and, if the com- 
mencement were an example of their usual style of horse- 
manship, I felt sure that a dozen horses would not be 
sufficient for the work before us. However, it was not 
the moment to offer advice, as they were simply mad with 
excitement and delight. 

The women raised their loud and shrill yell at parting, 
and our party of about twenty-five persons, with nine 
camels, six horses, and two donkeys, exclusive of the 



CHAP. XII.] DISCIPLINE OF THE GUN-BEARERS. 203 

German Florian, with his kicking giraffe-hunter, and 
attendants, ascended the broken slope that formed the 
broad valley of the Settite river. 

There was very little game in the neighbourhood, as it 
was completely overrun by the Arabs and their flocks ; and 
we were to march about fifty miles E.S.E. before we should 
arrive in the happy hunting-grounds of the Base country, 
where we were led to expect great results. Previous to 
leaving Wat el N^gur I had thoroughly drilled my 
Tokrooris in their duties as gun-bearers, which had esta- 
blished a discipline well exemplified in the recent affair 
with the elephants. I had entrusted to them my favourite 
rifles, and had instructed them in their use ; each man 
paid particular regard to the rifle that he carried, and, as 
several were of the same pattern, they had marked them 
with small pieces of rag tied round the trigger guards. 
This esprit de corps was most beneficial to the preservation 
of the arms, which were kept in admirable order. Maho- 
met, the dragoman, rode my spare horse, and carried my 
short double-barrelled rifle, slung across his back, in the 
place of his pistols and gun, which he had wilfully thrown 
upon the desert when leaving Berber. As the horse was 
restive, and he had placed the hammers upon the caps, his 
shirt caught in the lock, and one barrel suddenly exploded, 
which, with an elephant-charge of six drachms of powder, 
was rather startling, within a few inches of his ear, and 
narrowly escaped the back of his skull. Florian possessed 
a single-barrelled rifle, which he declared had accompanied 
him through many years of sports : this weapon had become 
so fond of shooting, that it was constantly going off on its 
own account, to the great danger of the bystanders, and no 
sooner were we well off on our journey, than off went 
this abominable instrument in a spontaneous feu de joie, 
in the very midst of us ! Its master was accordingly 
off likewise, as his horse gave the accustomed kick, that 
was invariably the deed of separation. However, we 
cantered on ahead of the dangerous party, and joined the 
aggageers, untQ we at length reached the table land above 
the Settite valley. Hardly were we arrived, than we 
noticed in the distance a flock of sheep and goats attended 



204 OMBREGA {MOTHER OF THE THORN), [chap. xii. 

by some Arab boys. Suddenly, as Don Quixote charged 
tbe sheep, lance in hand, the aggageers started off in full 
gallop, and as the frightened flock scattered in all direc- 
tions, in a few moments they were overtaken by the 
hunters, each of whom snatched a kid, or a goat, from the 
ground while at full speed, and placed it upon the neck of 
his horse, without either halting or dismounting. This 
was a very independent proceeding ; but, as the flock 
belonged to their own tribe, they laughed at the question 
of property that I had immediately raised, and assured 
me that this was the Arab custom of insuring their break- 
fast, as we should kill no game during that day. In this 
they were mistaken, as I killed sufficient guinea-fowl to 
render the party independent of other food. 

In a day's march through a beautiful country, some- 
times upon the high table land to cut off a bend in the 
river, at other times upon the margin of the stream in the 
romantic valley, broken into countless hills and ravines 
covered with mimosas, we arrived at Ombrega (mother of 
the thorn), about twenty-four miles from Geera. In that 
country, although uninhabited from fear of the Base, every 
locality upon the borders of the river has a name. Om- 
brega is a beautiful situation, where white sandstone cliffs 
of about two hundred feet perpendicular height, wall in 
the river, which, even at this dry season, was a noble 
stream impassable except at certain places, where it was 
fordable. Having descended the valley we bivouacked in 
the shade of thick nabbuk trees (Rhamntcs lotus), whose 
evergreen foliage forms a pleasing exception to the general 
barrenness of the mimosas during the season of drought. 
We soon arranged a resting-place, and cleared away the 
grass that produced the thorn which had given rise to the 
name of Ombrega, and in a short time we were comfortably 
settled for the night. We were within fifty yards of the 
river — the horses were luxuriating in the green grass that 
grew upon its banks, and the camels were hobbled, to 
prevent them from wandering from the protection of the 
camp fires, as we were now in the wilderness, where the 
Bas^ by day, and the lion and leopard by night, were 
hostile to man and beast. The goats, upon which we 



CHAP. XII.] THE DOG CARRIED OFF. 205 

depended for our supply of milk, were objects of especial 
care: these were picketed to pegs driven in the ground 
close to the fires, and men were ordered to sleep on either 
side. We had three greyhounds belonging to the Arabs, 
and it was arranged that, in addition to these guards, 
a watch should be kept by night. 

The dense shade of the nabbuk had been chosen by the 
Arabs as a screen to the camp-fires, that might otherwise 
attract the Bas^, who might be prowling about the country; 
but, as a rule, however pleasant may be the shade during 
the day, the thick jungle, and even the overhanging boughs 
of a tree, should be avoided at night. Snakes and noxious 
insects generally come forth after dark — many of these 
inhabit the boughs of trees, and may drop upon the bed 
of the unwary sleeper ; beasts of prey invariably inhabit 
the thick jungles, in which they may creep unperceived to 
within springing distance of an object in the camp. 

We were fast asleep a little after midnight, when we 
were awakened by the loud barking of the dogs, and by a 
confusion in the camp. Jumping up on the instant, I 
heard the dogs, far away in the dark jungles, barking 
in different directions. One of the goats was gone ! A 
leopard had sprung into the camp, and had torn a goat 
from its fastening, although tied to a peg, between two 
men, close to a large fire. The dogs had given chase ; but, 
as usual in such cases, they were so alarmed as to be 
almost useless. We quickly collected firebrands, and 
searched the jungles, and shortly we arrived where a dog 
was barking violently. Near this spot we heard the 
moaning of some animal among the bushes, and upon a 
search with firebrands we discovered the goat, helpless 
upon the ground, with its throat lacerated by the leopard. 
A sudden cry from the dog at a few yards' distance, and 
the barking ceased. 

The goat was carried to the camp, when it shortly 
died. We succeeded in recalling two of the dogs ; but 
the third, that was the best, was missing, having been 
struck by the leopard. We searched for the body in 
vain, and concluded that it had been carried off. 

On the following day, we discovered fresh tracks of 



206 LOSS OF ELEPHANT TRACK. [chap. xit. 

elephants at sunrise. No time was lost in starting, and 
upon crossing the river, we found that a large herd had 
been drinking, and had retreated by a peculiar ravine. 
This cleft through the sandstone rocks, which rose like 
walls for about a hundred feet upon either side, formed 
an alley about twenty yards broad, the bottom consisting 
of snow-white sand that, in the rainy season, formed the 
bed of a torrent from the upper country. This herd must 
have comprised about fifty elephants, that must have 
been in the same locality for several days, as the ground 
was trampled in all directions, and the mimosas upon 
the higher land were uprooted in great numbers : but 
after following upon the tracks for several hours with 
great difficulty, owing to the intricacy of their windings 
upon the dry and hard ground, we met with a sign fatal 
to success, — the footprints of two men. In a short time 
we met the men themselves, two elephant-hunters who 
had followed the herd on foot, with the sword as their 
only weapon : they had found the elephants, which had 
obtained their wind and had retreated. 

The Sheik Abou Do was furious at the audacity of these 
two Hamrans, who had dared to disturb our hunting- 
grounds, and he immediately ordered them to return 
to Geera. 

In addition to the tracks of the herd, we had seen that 
of a large single bull elephant ; this we now carefully 
followed, and, after many windings, we felt convinced 
that he was still within the broken ground that formed 
the Settite valley. After some hours' most difficult track- 
ing, Taher Noor, who was leading the way, suddenly sank 
gently upon all fours. This movement was immediately, 
but quietly imitated by the whole party, and I quickly 
distinguished a large grey mass about sixty yards distant 
among the bushes, which, being quite leafless, screened 
the form of the bull elephant, as seen through a veil of 
treble gauze. I felt quite sure that we should fail in a 
close approach with so large a party. I therefore pro- 
posed that I should lead the way with the Ceylon No. 10, 
and creep quite close to the elephant, while one of the 
aggageers should attempt to sabre the back sinew. Jali 



GHAP. XII.] FAILURE OF A FOREHEAD SHOT. 207 

whispered, that the sword was useless in the high and 
thick grass in which he was standing, surrounded by 
thorns ; accordingly I told Florian to follow me, and I 
crept forward. With difficulty, upon hands and knees, 
I avoided the hooked thorns that would otherwise have 
fastened upon my clothes, and, with the wind favourable, 
I at length succeeded in passing through the intervening 
jungle, and arrived at a small plot of grass that was suf- 
ficiently high to reach the shoulder of the elephant. This 
open space was about fifteen yards in diameter, and was 
surrounded upon all sides by thick jungle. He was a 
splendid bull, and stood temptingly for a forehead shot, 
according to Ceylon practice, as he was exactly facing 
me at about ten yards' distance. Having been fortunate 
with the front shot at Geera, I determined to try the 
effect; I aimed low, and crack went the old Ceylon No. 
10 rifle, with seven drachms of powder, and a ball of 
quicksilver and lead. For an instant the smoke in the 
high grass obscured the effect, but almost immediately 
after, I heard a tremendous rush, and, instead of falling, 
as I had expected, I saw the elephant crash headlong 
through the thorny jungle. No one was behind me, as 
Florian had misunderstood the arrangement that he was 
to endeavour to obtain a quick shot should I fail. I 
began to believe in what I had frequently heard asserted, 
that the forehead shot so fatal to the Indian elephant 
had no effect upon the African species, except by mere 
chance. I had taken so steady an aim at the convexity 
at the root of the trunk, that every advantage had been 
•given to the bullet; but the rilie that in Ceylon had been 
almost certain at an elephant, had completely failed. It 
was quite impossible to follow the animal through the 
jungle of hooked thorns. On our way toward the camp 
we saw tracks of rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, and a 
variety of antelopes, but none of the animals themselves. 

On the foUowincj morninoj we started, several times 
fording the river to avoid the bends : our course was due 
east. After the first three hours' ride through a beautiful 
country bordering the Settite valley, which we several 
times descended, we came in clear view of the magnificent 



208 A HUNT AFTER A HERD OF BABOONS, [chap. xii. 

range of mountains, that from Geera could hardly be dis- 
cerned ; this was the great range of Abyssinia, some points 
of which exceed 10,000 feet. The country that we now 
traversed was so totally uninhabited that it was devoid 
of all footprints of human beings ; even the sand by the 
river's side, that like the snow confessed every print, 
was free from all traces of man. The Bas^ were evidently 
absent from our neighbourhood. 

We had several times disturbed antelopes during the 
early portion of the march, and we had just ascended 
from the rugged slopes of the valley, when we observed 
a troop of about a hundred baboons, who were gathering 
gum arable from the mimosas ; upon seeing us, they im- 
mediately waddled off. " Would the lady like to have 
a girrit (baboon) ? " exclaimed the ever-excited Jali : being 
answered in the affirmative, away dashed the three hunters 
in full gallop after the astonished apes, who, finding 
themselves pursued, went oft" at their best speed. The 
ground was rough, being full of broken hollows, covered 
scantily with mimosas, and the stupid baboons, instead 
of turning to the right into the rugged and steep valley 
of the Settite, where they would have been secure from 
the aggageers, kept a straight course before the horses. 
It was a curious hunt ; some of the very young baboons 
were riding on their mothers' backs : these were now 
going at their best pace, holding on to their maternal 
steeds, and looking absurdly human ; but, in a few minutes, 
as we closely followed the Arabs, we were all in the midst 
of the herd, and with great dexterity two of the aggageers, 
while at full speed, stooped like falcons from their saddles, 
and seized each a half-grown ape by the back of the neck, 
and hoisted them upon the necks of the horses. Instead 
of biting, as I had expected, the astonished captives sat 
astride of the horses, and clung tenaciously with both 
arms to the necks of their steeds, screaming with fear. 
The hunt was over, and we halted to secure the prisoners. 
Dismounting, to my surprise the Arabs immediately 
stripped from a mimosa several thongs of bark, and having 
tied the baboons by the neck, they gave them a merciless 
whipping with their powerful coorbatches of hippopotamus 



CHAP. XII.] ABOU DO HUNTING. 209 

hide. It was in vain that I remonstrated against this 
harsh treatment ; they persisted in the punishment, other- 
wise they declared that the baboons would bite, but if 
well whipped they would become " miskeen " (humble). 
At length my wife insisted upon mercy, and the un- 
fortunate captives wore an expression of countenance like 
prisoners about to be led to execution, and they looked 
imploringly at our faces, in which they evidently dis- 
covered some sympathy with their fate. They were 
quickly placed on horseback before their captors, and 
once more we continued our journey, highly amused witli 
the little entr'acte. 

We had hardly ridden half a mile, when I perceived 
a fine bull tetel {Antelojpus Biibalis) standing near a bush 
a few hundred yards distant. Motioning to the party to 
halt, I dismounted, and with the little Fletcher rifle I 
endeavoured to obtain a shot. When within about a 
hundred and seventy yards, he observed our party, and 
I was obliged to take the shot, although I could have 
approached unseen to a closer distance, had his attention 
not been attracted by the noise of the horses. He threw 
his head up preparatory to starting off, and he was just 
upon the move as I touched the trigger. He fell like a 
stone to the shot, but almost immediately he regained his 
feet, and bounded off, receiving a bullet from the second 
barrel without a flinch; in full speed he rushed away 
across the party of aggageers about three hundred yards 
distant. Out dashed Abou Do from the ranks on his 
active grey horse, and away he flew after the wounded 
t^tel ; his long hair floating in the wind, his naked sword 
in hand, and his heels digging into the flanks of his 
horse, as though armed with spurs in the last finish of 
a race. It was a beautiful course ; Abou Do hunted 
like a cunning greyhound ; the tetel turned, and taking 
advantage of the double, he cut off* the angle ; succeeding 
by the manoeuvre, he again followed at tremendous speed 
over the numerous inequalities of the ground, gaining in 
the race until he was within twenty yards of the tetel, 
when we lost sight of both game and hunter in the thick 
bushes. By this time I had regained my horse, that was 



p 



210 THE CRY OF BUFFALOES. [chap. xii. 

brought to meet me, and I followed to the spot, towards 
which my wife, and the aggageers encumbered with the 
unwilling apes, were already hastening. Upon arrival I 
found, in high yellow grass beneath a large tree, the tetel 
dead, and Abou Do wiping his bloody sword, surrounded 
by the foremost of the party. He had hamstrung the 
animal so delicately, that the keen edge of the blade was 
not injured against the bone. My two bullets had passed 
through the tetel ; the first was too high, having entered 
above the shoulder — this had dropped the animal for a 
moment ; the second was through the flank. The Arabs 
now tied the baboons to trees, and employed themselves 
in carefully skinning the tetel so as to form a sack from 
the hide ; they had about half finished the operation, when 
we were disturbed by a peculiar sound at a considerable 
distance in the jungle, which, being repeated, we knew 
to be the cry of buffaloes. In an instant the tetel was 
neglected, the aggageers mounted their horses, and leaving 
my wife with a few men to take charge of the game, 
accompanied by Florian we went in search of the buffaloes. 
This part of the country was covered with grass about 
nine feet high, that was reduced to such extreme dryness 
that the stems broke into several pieces like glass as we 
brushed through it. The jungle was open, composed of 
thorny mimosas at such wide intervals, that a horse could 
be ridden at considerable speed if accustomed to the 
country. Altogether it was the perfection of ground for 
shooting, and the chances were in favour of the rifle. 

We had proceeded carefully about half a mile when 
I heard a rustling in the grass, and T shortly perceived 
a bull buffalo standing alone beneath a tree, close to the 
sandy bed of a dried stream, about a hundred yards 
distant between us and the animal; the grass had been 
entirely destroyed by the trampling of a large herd. I 
took aim at the shoulder with one of my No. 10 Eeilly 
rifles, and the buffalo rushed forward at the shot, and 
fell about a hundred paces beyond in the bush. At the 
report of the shot, the herd that we had not observed, 
which had been lying upon the sandy bed of the stream, 
rushed past us with a sound like thunder, in a cloud 



CHAP. XII.] WE HUNT AND CAPTURE. i> 1 1 

of dust raised by several hundreds of large animals in 
full gallop. I could hardly see them distinctly, and I 
waited for a good chance, when presently a mighty bull 
separated from the rest, and gave me a fair shoulder 
shot. I fired a little too forward, and missed the 
shoulder ; but I made a still better shot by mistake, 
as the Eeilly bullet broke the spine through the neck, 
and dropped him dead, Florian, poor fellow, had not 
the necessary tools for the work, and one of his light 
guns produced no effect. Now came the time for the 
aggageers. Away dashed Jali on his fiery mare, closely 
followed by Abou Do and Suleiman, who in a few 
instants were obscured in the cloud of dust raised by 
the retreating buffaloes. As soon as I could mount my 
horse that had been led behind me, I followed at full 
speed, and spurring hard, I shortly came in sight of the 
three aggageers, not only in the dust, but actually among 
the rear buffaloes of the herd. Suddenly, Jali almost 
disappeared from the saddle as he leaned forward with a 
jerk, and seized a fine young buffalo by the tail. In a 
moment Abou Do and Suleiman sprang from their horses, 
and I arrived just in time to assist them in securing a 
fine little bull of about twelve hands high, whose horns 
were six or seven inches long. A pretty fight v.'e had 
with the young Hercules. The Arabs stuck to him like 
bull-dogs, in spite of his tremendous struggles, and 
riorian, with other men, shortly arriving, we secured him 
by lashing his legs together with our belts until im- 
promptu ropes could be made with mimosa bark. I now 
returned to the spot where we had left my wife and 
the tetel. I found her standing about fifty yards 
from the spot with a double rifle cocked, awaiting an 
expected charge from one of the buffaloes that, separated 
from the herd, had happened to rush in her direction. 
Mahomet had been in an awful fright, and was now stand- 
ing secure behind his mistress. I rode through the grass 
with the hope of getting a shot, but the animal had disap- 
peared. We returned to the dead tetel and to our captive 
baboons ; but times had changed since we had left them. 
One had taken advantage of our absence, and, having 

p2 



212 THE VALLEY OF THE SI:TTITE. [chap. xn. 

bitten through his tether, he had escaped ; the other 
had used force instead of cunning, and, in attempting 
to tear away from confinement, had strangled himself 
with the slip-knot of the rope. 

The aggageers now came up with the young buffalo. 
This was a great prize, as zoological specimens were 
much sought after at Cassala by an agent from Italy, who 
had given contracts for a supply. My hunters, to whom 
I willingly gave my share in the animal, left one of 
their party with several of my people to obtain the 
assistance of the camel-drivers, who were not far distant 
in the rear ; these were to bring the flesh of the animals, 
and to drive the young bull on the march. 

We now pushed on ahead, and at 5 PM. we arrived 
at the spot on the margin of the Settite river at which 
we were to encamp for some time. 

In this position, the valley of the Settite had changed 
its character : instead of the rugged and broken slopes 
on either side of the river, ascending gradually to the 
high table lands, the east bank of the river was low, 
and extended, in a perfect flat for about eight miles, to 
the foot of an abrupt range of hills ; the base had many 
ages ago formed the margin of the stream, which had 
washed this enormous mass of soil towards the Atbara 
river, to be carried by the Mle for a deposit in Lower 
Egypt. During the rainy season, the river overflowed 
its banks, and attained a width in many places of six 
and seven hundred yards. The soil was rich, and, having 
imbibed much moisture from a periodical overflow, it gave 
birth to thick jungles of nabbuk (Rhavinus lotus), to- 
gether with luxuriant gTass, which being beautifully green 
while all other leaves and herbage were parched and 
withered, afforded pasturage and shade that attracted a 
number of wild animals. For many miles on either 
side the river was fringed with dense groves of the 
green nabbuk, but upon the east bank, an island had 
been formed of about three hundred acres; this was a 
perfect oasis of verdure, covered with large nabbuk trees, 
about thirty feet high, and forming a mixture of the 
densest coverts, with small open glades of rich but low 



cuAP. xiT.] THE ISLAND CAMP. 213 

lierbage. To reach this island, upon which we were to 
encamp, it was necessary to cross the arm of the river, 
that was now dry, with the exception of deep pools, in 
one of which we perceived a large bull buffalo drinking, 
just as we descended the hill. As this would be close 
to the larder, I stalked to within ninety yards, and fired 
a Eeilly No. 10 into his back, as his head inclined to the 
water. For the moment he fell upon his knees, but 
recovering immediately, he rushed up the steep bank of 
the island, receiving my left-hand barrel between the 
shoulders, and he disappeared in the dense covert of 
green nabbuk on the margin. As we were to camp 
within a few yards of the spot, he was close to home ; 
therefore, having crossed the river, we carefully followed 
the blood tracks through the jungle ; but, after having 
pushed our way for about twenty paces through the dense 
covert, I came to the wise conclusion that it was not 
the place for following a wounded buffalo, and that we 
should find him dead on the next morning. A few 
yards upon our right hand was a beautiful open glade, 
commanding a view of the river, and surrounded by 
the largest nabbuk trees, that afforded a delightful shade 
in the midst of the thick covert. This was a spot that 
in former years had been used by the aggageers as a 
camp, and we accordingly dismounted, and turned the 
horses to graze upon the welcome grass. Each horse 
was secured to a peg by a long leathern thong, as the 
lions in this neighbourhood were extremely dangerous, 
having the advantage of thick and opaque jungle. 

We employed ourselves until the camels should arrive, 
in cutting thorn branches, and constructing a zareeba, 
or fenced camp, to protect our animals during the night 
from the attack of wild beasts. I also hollowed out a 
thick green bush to form an arbour, as a retreat during 
the heat of the day, and in a short space of time we 
w^ere prepared for the reception of the camels and effects. 
The river had cast up immense stores of dry wood ; this 
we had collected, and, by the time the camels arrived 
with the remainder of our party after dark, huge fires 
were blazing \\vj\i in air, the lioht of which had ouided 



214 INTERRUPTED AT DINNER BY I IONS. [chap. xii. 

them direct to our camp. They were heavily la,den ^vith 
meat, which is the Arab's great source of happiness, 
therefore in a few minutes the whole party was busily 
employed in cutting the flesh into long thin strips to 
dry ; these were hung in festoons over the surroundin.o: 
trees, while the fires were heaped with tit-bits of all 
descriptions. I had chosen a remarkably snug position 
for ourselves ; the two angareps (stretchers) were neatly 
arranged in the middle of a small open space free from 
overhanging boughs ; near these blazed a large fire, upon 
which w^ere roasting a row of marrow-bones of buffalo 
and tetel, while the table was spread with a clean cloth, 
and arranged for dinner. 

The woman Barrake, who had discovered with regret 
that she was not a wife but a servant, had got over 
the disappointment, and was now making dhurra cakes 
upon the doka : this is a round earthenware tray about 
eighteen inches in diameter, Avhich, supported upon three 
stones or lumps of earth, over a fire of glowing embers, 
forms a hearth. Slices of liver, well peppered witli 
cayenne and salt, were grilling on the gridiron, and we 
were preparing to dine, when a terrific roar within a 
hundred and fifty yards informed us that a lion Avas also 
thinking of dinner. A confusion of tremendous roars 
proceeding from several lions followed the first round, 
and my aggageers quietly remarked, " There is no danger 
for the horses to-night, the lions have found your wounded 
buffalo ! " 

Such a magnificent chorus of bass voices I had never 
heard; the jungle cracked, as with repeated roars they 
dragged the carcase of the buffalo through the thorns 
to the spot where they intended to devour it. That 
which was music to our ears was discord to that of 
Mahomet, who with terror in h's face came to us and 
exclaimed : " Master, what's that ? AVhat for master and 
the missus come to this bad country ? That's one bad 
kind will eat .the missus in the night ! Perhaps he come 
and eat Mahomet 1 " This after-thought was too much for 
him, and Bacheet immediately comforted him by telling 
the most horrible tales of death and destruction that 



CHAP. XIII.] TALES OF THE BASE. 215 

had been wrought by lions, until the nerves of Mahomet 
were completely unhinged. 

This was a signal for story-telling, when suddenly 
the aggageers changed the conversation by a few tales 
of the Base natives, which so thoroughly eclipsed the 
dangers of wild beasts, that in a short time the entire 
party would almost have welcomed a lion, provided 
would he only have agreed to protect them from the 
Bas^. In this very spot where we were then camped, a 
party of Arab hunters had, two years previous, been 
surprised at night and killed by the Bas^ who still 
boasted of the swords that they possessed as spoils from 
that occasion. The Base knew this spot as the favourite 
resting-place of the Hamran hunting-parties, and they 
might be not far distant now, as we were in the heart 
of their country. This intelligence was a regular damper 
to the spirits of some of tlie party. Mahomet' quietly 
retired and sat down by Barrak^, the ex-slave woman, 
having expressed a resolution to keep awake every hour 
that he should be compelled to remain in that horrible 
country. The lions roared louder and louder, but no 
one appeared to notice such small thunder ; all thoughts 
were fixed upon the Base, so thoroughly had the aggageers 
succeeded in frightening not only Mahomet, but also 
our Tokrooris. 



CHAPTEE XIII. 

THE LIONS FIND THE BUFFALO. 



Eaely on the following morning the lions were stiU roar- 
ing, apparently within a hundred yards of the camp. I 
accordingly took a Eeilly No. 10 double rifie, and accom- 
panied by my wife, who was anxious to see these glorious 
animals, and who carried my little Fletcher ISTo. 24, 1 skirted 
the outside of the jungle on the high bank, on tlie narrow 
arm of the river. We were not long in finding traces of 



216 WE TRACK THE LIONS, [chap. xiii. 

the lions. A broad track in the sandy bed of the dried 
stream showed where the buffalo had been dragged across 
to the thick and impervious green bushes, exactly beneath 
■QS on the margin of the river. A hind quarter of the 
buffalo, much gnawed, lay within seven or eight paces of 
us, among the bushes that had been trampled down, and 
the dung of numerous lions lay upon the open ground near 
the place of their concealment. We had two Tokrooris 
with us, carrying spare rifles, and I felt sure that the lions 
were within the bushes of dense nabbuk, which concealed 
them as perfectly as though behind a closed curtain. We 
approached within three or four yards of this effective 
screen, when suddenly we heard the cracking of bones, as 
the lions feasted in their den close to us ; they would not 
show themselves, nor was there any possibility of obtaining 
a shot ; therefore, after ascending the high bank, and wait- 
ing for some time in the hope that one might emerge to 
drag away the exposed portion of the buffalo, we returned 
to camp. 

The aggageers had already returned from a reconnaissance 
of the country, as they had started before daybreak in 
search of elephants; they reported the fresh tracks of a 
herd, and they begged me to lose no time in accompanying 
them, as the elephants might retreat to a great distance 
There was no need for this advice ; in a few minutes my 
horse Tetel was saddled, and my six Tokrooris and Bacheet, 
with spare rifles, were in attendance. Bacheet, who had 
so in gloriously failed in his first essay at Wat el ISTegur, 
had been so laughed at by the girls of the village for his 
want of pluck, that he had declared himself ready to face 
the devil rather than the ridicule of the fair sex; and, 
to do him justice, he subsequently became a first-rate lad 
in moments of danger. 

The aggageers were quickly mounted. It was a sight 
most grateful to a sportsman to witness the start of these 
superb hunters, who with the sabres slung from the saddle- 
bow, as though upon an everyday occasion, now left the 
camp with these simple weapons, to meet the mightiest 
animal of the creation in hand-to-hand conflict. The 
horses' hoofs clattered as we descended the shmgly beach, 



CHAP. XIII.] ARRANGE THE ATTACK. 217 

and forded the river shoulder-deep, through the rapid 
current, while those on foot clung to the manes of the 
horses, and to the stirrup-leathers, to steady themselves 
over the loose stones beneath. 

Shortly after our arrival upon the opposite side, we came 
upon numerous antelopes of the nellut {A. Strejmceros) and 
tetel (A. Biibalis). I would not fire at these tempting 
animals, as we were seeking nobler game. 

Tracking was very difficult ; as there was a total absence 
of rain, it was next to impossible to distinguish the tracks 
of two days' date from those most recent upon the hard 
and parched soil ; the only positive clue was the fresh 
dung of the elephants, and this being deposited at long in- 
tervals rendered the search extremely tedious. The greater 
part of the day passed in useless toil, and, after fording the 
river backwards and forwards several times, w^e at length 
arrived at a large area of sand in the bend of the stream, 
that was evidently overflowed when the river was full; 
this surface of many acres was backed by a forest of large 
trees. Upon arrival at this spot, the aggageers, who ap- 
peared to know every inch of the country, declared that, 
unless the elephants had gone far away, they must be close 
at hand, within the forest. We were speculating upon the 
direction of the wind, yhen we were surprised by the 
sudden trumpet of an elephant, that proceeded from the 
forest already declared to be the covert of the herd. In a 
few minutes later, a fine bull elephant marched majes- 
tically from the jungle upon the large area of sand, and 
proudly stalked direct towards the river. 

At that time we were stationed under cover of ^ high 
bank of sand that had been left by the retiring river in 
sweeping round an angle ; we immediately dismounted, 
and remained well concealed. The question of attack was 
quickly settled ; the elephant was quietly stalking towards 
the water, which was about three hundred paces distant 
from the jungle: this intervening space was heavy dry 
sand, that had been thrown up by the stream in the sudden 
bend of the river, which, turning from this point at a right 
angle, swept beneath a perpendicular cliff of conglomerate 
rock formed of rounded pebbles cemented together. 



218 THE FIGHT, SWORD IN HAND. [chap. xiii. 

I proposed that we should endeavour to stalk the ele- 
phant, by creeping along the edge of the river, under cover 
of a sand bank about three feet high, and that, should the 
rifles fail, the aggageers should come on at full gallop, and 
cut off his retreat from the jungle ; we should then have a 
chance for the swords. 

Accordingly, I led the way, followed by Hadji Ali, my 
head Tokroori, with a rifle, while I carried the " Baby." 
riorian accompanied us. Having the wind fair, we ad- 
vanced quickly for about half the distance, at which time 
we were within a hundred and fifty yards of the elephant, 
who had just arrived at the water, and had commenced 
drinking. We now crept cautiously towards him ; the 
sand bank had decreased to a height of about two feet, and 
afforded very little shelter. Not a tree nor bush grew upon 
the surface of the barren sand, which was so deep that we 
sank nearly to the ankles at every footstep. Still wf 
crept forward, as the elephant alternately drank, and then 
spouted the water in a shower over his colossal form ; but 
just as we had arrived within about fifty yards, he hap- 
pened to turn his head in our direction, and immediately 
perceived us. He cocked his enormous ears, gave a short 
trumpet, and for an instant he wavered in his determina- 
tion whether to attack or fly ; but as I rushed towards him 
with a shout, he turned towards the jungle, and I imme- 
diately fired a steady shot at the shoulder with the " Baby." 
As usual, the fearful recoil of the rifle, with a half-pound 
shell and twelve drachms of powder, nearly threw me 
backwards ; but I saw the mark u.pon the elephant's 
shoulder, in an excellent line, although rather high. The 
only effect of the shot was to send him off at great speed 
towards the jungle ; but at the same moment the three 
aggageers came galloping across the sand like greyhounds 
in a course, and, judiciously keeping parallel with the 
jungle, they cut off his retreat, and, turning towards the 
elephant, tliey confronted him, sword in hand. At once 
the furious beast charged straight at the enemy ; but now 
came the very gallant, but foolish, part of the hunt. In- 
stead of leading the elephant by the flight of one man and 
horse, according to their usual method, all the aggageers at 



CTTAP. XIII.] ABOU DO'S BLADE TASTES BLOOD. 219 

the same moment sprang from their saddles, and upon foot 
in the lieavy sand they attacked the elephant with their 
swords. 

In the way of sport, I never saw anything so marrnifi- 
cent, or so absurdly dangerous. No gladiatorial exhibition 
in the Eoman arena could have surpassed this fight. The 
elephant was mad with rage, and nevertheless he seemed 
to know that the object of the hunters was to get behind 
him. This he avoided with great dexterity, turning as it 
were upon a pivot with extreme quickness, and charging*- 
headlong, first at one, and then at another of his assailants^ 
while he blew clouds of sand in the air with his trunk,' 
and screamed with fury. N"imble as monkeys, nevertheless 
the aggageers could not get behind him. In the folly of 
excitement they had forsaken their horses, which had 
escaped from the spot. The depth of the loose sand was 
m favour of the elephant, and was so much ao-ainst the 
men that they avoided his charges with extreme'difficulty 
It was only by the determined pluck of all three that they 
alternately saved each other, as two invariably dashed in 
at the flanks when the elephant charged the third, upon 
which the wary animal immediately relinquished the 
chase, and turned round upon his pursuers. During this 
time, I had been labouring through the heavy sand and 
shortly after I arrived at the fight, the elephant charged 
directly through the aggageers, receiving a shoulder shot 
from one of my EeiUy No. 10 rifles, and at the same time 
a slash from the sword of Abou Do, who, with great dex- 
terity and speed, had closed in behind him, just m time to 
reach the leg. Unfortunately, he could not deliver the cut 
m the right place, as the elephant, Avith increased speed, 
completely distanced the aggageers ; he charged across the 
deep sand, and reached the jungle. We were shortly upon 
his tracks, and after running about a quarter of a mile, he 
fell dead in a dry watercourse. His tusks were, like 'the 
generality of Abyssinian elephants, exceedingly short but 
of good thickness. 

Some of our men, who had followed the runaway horses 
shortly returned, and reported that, during our fight with' 
the bull, they liad heard other elephants trumpeting in the 



220 WE FIND THE HERD. [chap. xiii. 

dense nabbuk jungle near the river. A portion of thick 
forest of about two hundred acres, upon this side of the 
river, was a tempting covert for elephants, and the agga- 
geers, who were perfectly familiar with the habits of the 
animals, positively declared that the herd must be within 
this jungle. Accordingly, we proposed to skirt the margin 
of the river, which, as it made a bend at right angles, com- 
manded two sides of a square. Upon reaching the jungle 
by the river side, we again heard the trumpet of an ele- 
phant, and about a quarter of a mile distant we observed 
a herd of twelve of these animals shoulder-deep in the 
river, which they were in the act of crossing to the oppo- 
site side, to secure themselves in an almost impenetrable 
jungle of thorny nabbuk. The aggageers advised that we 
should return to the ford that we had already crossed, and, 
by repassing the river, we should most probably meet the 
elephants, as they would not leave the thick jungle until 
the night. Having implicit confidence in their knowledge 
of the country, I followed their directions, and we shortly 
recrossed the ford, and arrived upon a dry portion of the 
river's bed^ banked by a dense thicket of nabbuk. 

Jali now took the management of affairs. We all dis- 
mounted, and sent the horses to a considerable distance, 
lest they should by some noise disturb the elephants. We 
shortly heard a cracking in the jungle on our right, and 
Jali assured us, that, as he had expected, the elephants 
were slowly advancing along the jungle on the bank of the 
river, and they would pass exactly before us. We waited 
patiently in the bed of the river, and the cracking in the 
jungle sounded closer as the herd evidently approached. 
The strip of thick thorny covert that fringed the margin 
was in no place wider than half a mile — beyond that, the 
country was open and park-like, but at this season it was 
covered with parched grass from eight to ten feet high ; 
the elephants would, therefore, most probably remain in 
the jungle until driven out. 

In about a quarter of an hour, we heard by the noise in 
the jungle, about a hundred yards from the river, that the 
elephants w^ere directly opposite to us. I accordiugly in- 
structed Jali to creep quietly by himself into the bush and 



CHAP. XIII.] THE F0REHEJ1) SHOT FAIRLY PROVED. 221 

to bring me information of their position : to this he at 
once agreed. 

In three or four minutes he returned ; he declared it 
impossible to use the sword, as the jungle was so dense 
that it would check the blow, but that I could use the 
rifle, as the elephants were close to us — he had seen three 
standing together, between us and the main body of the 
herd. I told Jali to lead me direct to the spot, and, 
followed by Florian and the aggageers, with my gun- 
bearers, I kept within a foot of my . dependable little 
guide, who crept gently into the jungle ; this was intensely 
thick, and quite impenetrable, except in such places where 
elephants and other heavy animals had trodden numerous 
alleys. Along one of these narrow passages we stealthily 
advanced, until Jali stepped quietly on one side, and 
pointed with his finger ; I immediately observed two 
elephants looming through the thick bushes about eight 
paces from me. One offered a temple shot, which I 
quickly took with a Eeilly No. 10, and floored it on the 
spot. The smoke hung so thickly, that I could not see 
sufficiently distinctly to fire my second barrel before the 
remaining elephant had turned ; but Florian, with a three- 
ounce steel-tipped bullet, by a curious shot at the hind 
quarters, injured the hip joint to such an extent that we 
could more than equal the elephant in speed. In a few 
moments We found ourselves in a small open glade in the 
middle of the jungle, close to the stern of the elephant we 
were following. I had taken a fresh rifle, with both barrels 
loaded, and hardly had I made the exchange, when the 
elephant turned suddenly, and charged. Determined to 
try fairly the forehead shot, I kept my ground, and fired a 
ReiUy No. 10, quicksilver and lead bullet, exactly in the 
centre, when certainly within four yards. The only effect 
was to make her stagger backwards, when, in another 
moment, with her immense ears thrown forward, she again 
rushed on. This was touch-and-go ; but I fired my re- 
maining barrel a little lower than the first shot. Checked 
in her rush, she backed towards the dense jungle, throwing 
her trunk about and trumpeting with rage. Snatching tlie 
Ceylon No. 10 from one of my trusty Tokrooris (Hassan), 



222 THE CHARGE OF THE PHALANX. [chap. xiii. 

I ran straight at lier, took a most deliberate aim at the 
forehead, and once more fired. The only effect was a 
decisive charge ; but before I fired my last barrel, Jali 
rushed in, and, with one blow of his sharp sword, severed 
the back sinew. She was utterly helpless in the same 
instant. Bravo, Jali ! I had fired three beautifully correct 
shots with ISTo. 10 bullets, and seven drachms of powder 
in each charge ; these were so nearly together that they 
occupied a space in her forehead of about three inches, 
and all had failed to kill ! There could no longer be any 
doubt that the forehead shot at an African elephant could 
not be relied upon, although so fatal to the Indian species : 
this increased the danger tenfold, as in Ceylon I had gene- 
rally made certain of an elephant by steadily waiting until 
it was close upon me. 

T now reloaded my rifles, and the aggageers quitted the 
jungle to remount their horses, as they expected the herd 
had broken cover on the other side of the jungle ; in which 
case they intended to give chase, and if possible, to turn 
them back into the covert, and drive them towards the 
guns. We accordingly took our stand in the small open 
glade, and I lent Florian one of my double rifles, as he 
was only provided with one single-barrelled elephant gun. 
I did not wish to destroy the prestige of the rifles, by hint- 
ing to the aggageers that it would be rather awkward for 
us to receive the charge of the infuriated he^d, as the 
foreheads were invulnerable ; but inwardly I rather hoped 
that they would not come so direct upon our position as 
the aggageers wished. 

About a quarter of an hour passed .in suspense, when 
we suddenly heard a chorus of wild cries of excitement on 
the other side of the jungle, raised by the aggageers, who 
had headed the herd, and were driving them back towards 
us.. In a few minutes a tremendous crashinsj in the 
jungle, accompanied by the occasional shrill scream of a 
savage elephant, and the continued shouts of the mounted 
aggageers, assured us that they were bearing down exactly 
upon our direction ; they were apparently followed even 
through the dense jungle by the wild and reckless Arabs. 
I called my men close together, and told them to stand 



CHAP. XIII.] ABOU 1)0 SLASHES THE SINEW. 223 

fast, and hand me the guns quickly ; and we eagerly 
awaited the onset that rushed towards us like a storm. 
On they came, tearing everything before them. For a 
moment the jungle quivered and crashed ; a second later, 
and, headed by an immense elephant, the herd thundered 
down upon us. The great leader came direct at me, and 
was received with right and left in the forehead from a 
Eeilly ]S"o. 10 as fast as I could pull the triggers. The 
shock made it reel backwards for an instant, and fortu- 
nately turned it and the herd likewise. My second rifle 
was beautifully handed, and I made a quick right and left 
at the temples of two fine elephants, dropping them both 
stone-dead. At this moment the "Baby" was pushed into 
my hand by Hadji Ali just in time to take the shoulder of 
the last of the herd, who had already charged headlong- 
after his comrades, and was disappearing in the jungle. 
Bang ! went the " Baby ; " round I spun like a weather- 
cock, with the blood pouring from my nose, as the recoil 
had driven the sharp top of the hammer deep into the 
bridge. My " Baby " not only screamed, but kicked 
viciously. However, I knew that the elephant must be 
bagged, as the half-pound shell had been aimed directly 
behind the shoulder. 

In a few minutes the aggageers arrived ; they were 
bleeding from countless scratches, as, although naked, with 
the exception of short drawers, they had forced their way 
on horseback through the thorny path cleft by the herd in 
rushing through the jungle. AIdou Do had blood upon his 
'Sword. They had found the elephants commencing a 
retreat to the interior of the country, and they had arrived 
just in time to turn them. Following them at full speed, 
Abon Do had succeeded in overtaking and slashing the 
sinew of an elephant just as it was entering the jungle. 
Thus the aggageers had secured one, in addition to 
Florian's elephant that had been slashed by Jali. We 
now hunted for the " Baby's " elephant, which was almost 
immediately discovered lying dead within a hundred and 
fifty yards of the place where it had received the shot. 
The shell had entered close to the shoulder, and it was 
extraordinary that an animal should have been able to 



224 A BOAR WOUNDS RICHARN. [chap. xiii. 

travel so great a distance with a wound througli the lungs 
by a shell that had exploded within the body. 

AVe had done pretty well. T had been fortunate in 
bagging four from this herd, in addition to the single bull 
in the morning ; total, five. Florian had killed one, and 
the aggageers one ; total, seven elephants. One had 
escaped that I had wounded in the shoulder, and two 
that had been wounded by Florian. 

The aggageers were delighted, and they determined to 
search for the wounded elephants on the following day, 
as the evening was advancing, and we were about five 
miles from camp. Having my measuring-tape in a game- 
bag that was always carried by Abdoolahi, I measured 
accurately one of the elephants that had fallen with the 
legs stretched out, so that the height to the shoulder could 
be exactly taken : — From foot to shoulder in a direct line, 
nine feet one inch; circumference of foot, four feet eight 
inches. The elephant lying by her side was still larger, 
but the legs being doubled up, I could not measure her : 
these were females. 

We now left the jungle, and found our horses waiting 
for us in the bed of the river by the water side, and we 
rode towards our camp well satisfied with the day's work. 
Upon entering an open plain of low withered grass w^e 
perceived a boar, who upon our approach showed no signs 
of fear, but insolently erected his tail and scrutinised our 
party. Florian dismounted and fired a shot, whicli passed 
through his flank, and sent the boar flying off at full speed. 
Abou Do and I gave chase on horseback, and after a run 
of a few hundred yards we overtook the boar, which turned 
resolutely to bay. 

In a short time the whole party arrived, and, as Florian 
had wounded the animal, his servant Eicharn considered 
that he should give the coup de grace; but upon his 
advancing with his drawn knife, the boar charged despe- 
rately, and inflicted a serious wound across the palm of 
his hand, which was completely divided to the bone by 
a gash with the sharp tusk. Abou Do immediately 
rode to the rescue, and with a blow of his sword divided 
the spme behind the shoulder, and nearly cut the boar 



CHAP. XIII.] OLD MOOSA THE SORCERER. 225 

in lialf. By this accident Eicharn was disabled for some 
days. 

Upon our arrival at tlie'camp, there were great rejoicings 
among our people at the result of the day's sport. Old 
Moosa, the half fortune-teller, half priest, of the Tokrooris, 
had in our absence employed himself in foretelling the 
number of "elephants we should kill. His method of con- 
juring was rather perplexing, and, although a. mystery 
beyond my understanding, it might be simple to an 
English spiritualist or spirit-rapper ; he had nevertheless 
satisfied both himself and others, therefore the party had 
been anxiously waiting our return to hear the result. Of 
course, old Moosa was wrong, and of course he had a loop- 
hole for escape, and thereby preserved his reputation. 
The aggageers expected to find our wounded elephants on 
the following morning, if dead, by the flights of vultures. 
That night the lions again serenaded us with constant 
roaring, as they had still some bones to gnaw of the 
buffalo's remains. 

At daybreak the next morning, the aggageers in high 
glee mounted their horses, and with a long retinue of 
camels, and men provided with axes and knives, together 
with large gum sacks to contain the flesh, they quitted 
the camp to cut up the numerous elephants. As I had no 
taste for this disgusting wofk, I took two of my Tokrooris, 
Hadji Ali and Hassan, and, accompanied by old Abou Do, 
the father of the sheik, with his harpoon, we started along 
the margin of the river in quest of hippopotami. 

The harpoon for hippopotamus and crocodile hunting is 
a piece of soft steel about eleven inches long, with a 
narrow blade or point of about three-quarters of an inch in 
width, and a single but powerful barb. To this short, and 
apparently insigniticant weapon, a strong rope is secured, 
about twenty feet in length, at the extremity of which is a 
buoy or float, as large as a child's head, formed of an ex- 
tremely light wood called ambatch {Anemone mirahilis), 
that is about half the specific gravity of cork. The 
extreme end of the short harpoon is fixed in the point of a 
bamboo about ten feet long, around which the rope is 
twisted, while the buoy end is carried in the left hand. 



226 THE BEAUTY OF THE SETTITE. [chap. xiir. 

. The old Abou Do being resolved upon work, had 
divested himself of his tope or toga before starting, accord- 
ing to the general custom of the aggageers, who usually 
wear a simple piece of leather wound round the loins when 
hunting, but, I believe in respect for our party, they had 
provided themselves with a garment resembling bathing 
drawers, such as are worn in France, Germany, and other 
civilized countries ; but the old Abou Do, like the English, 
had resisted any such innovation, and he accordingly 
appeared with nothing on but his harpoon ; and a more 
superb old ISTeptune I never beheld. He carried this 
weapon in his hand, as the trident with which the old sea- 
god ruled the monsters of the deep ; and as the tall Arab 
patriarch of threescore years and ten, with his long grey 
locks flowing over his brawny shoulders, stepped as lightly 
as a goat from rock to rock along the rough margin of the 
river, I followed him in admiration. 

The country was very beautiful ; we were within twenty 
miles of lofty mountains, while at a distance of about 
thirty-five or forty miles were the high peaks of the 
Abyssinian Alps. The entire land was richly wooded, 
although open, and adapted for hunting upon horseback. 
Through this wild and lovely country the river Settite 
flowed in an ever-changing course. At times the bed was 
several hundred yards wide, with the stream, contracted at 
this season, flowing gently over rounded pebbles ; the 
water was as clear as glass ; in other places huge masses 
of rock impeded the flow of water, and caused dangerous 
rapids ; then, as the river passed through a range of hills, 
perpendicular cliff's of sandstone and of basalt walled it 
within a narrow channel, through which it rushed with 
great impetuosity ; issuing from these straits it calmed its 
fury in a deep and broad pool, from which it again com- 
menced a gentle course over sands and pebbles. At that 
season the river would have been perfection for salmon, 
being a series of rapids, shallows, deep and rocky gorges, 
and quiet silent pools of unknown depth ; in the latter 
places of security the hippopotami retreated after their 
nocturnal rambles upon terra firina. The banks of this 
beautiful river were generally thickly clothed with bright 



CHAP. XIII.] NOTICE A HERD OF IIIPPOPOTAm. 227 

green nabbuk trees, that formed a shelter for innumerable 
guinea-fowl, and the black francolin partridge. Herds of 
antelopes of many varieties were forced to the river to 
drink, as the only water within many miles ; but these 
never remained long among the thick nabbuk, as the lions 
and leopards inhabited that covert expressly to spring 
uj)on the umvary animal whose thirst prompted a too 
heedless advance. Wherever there was a sand bank in the 
river, a crocodile basked in the morning sunshine : some 
of these were of enormous size. 

Hippopotami had trodden a path along the margin of 
the river, as these animals came out to feed shortly after 
dark, and travelled from pool to pool. Wherever a plot 
of tangled and succulent herbage grew among the shady 
nabbuks, there were the marks of the harrow-like teeth, 
that had torn and rooted up the rank grass like an agri- 
cultural implement. 

After walking about two miles, we noticed a herd of 
hippopotami in a pool below a rapid : this was surrounded 
by rocks, except upon one side, where the rush of water 
had thrown up a bank of pebbles and sand. Our old 
Neptune did not condescend to bestow the slightest atten- 
tion when I pointed out these animals ; they were too wide 
awake ; but he immediately quitted the river's bed, and 
we followed him quietly behind the fringe of bushes upon 
the border, from which we carefully examined the water. 
About half a mile below this spot, as we clambpted over 
the intervening rocks through a gorge which formed a 
powerful rapid, I observed, in a small pool just below the 
rapid, an immense head of a hippopotamus close to a per- 
pendicular rock that formed a wall to the river, about six 
feet above the surface. I pointed out the hippo to old 
Abou Do, who had not seen it. At once the gravity of tlie 
old Arab disappeared, and the energy of the hunter was 
exhibited as he motioned us to remain, while he ran nimbly 
behind the thick screen of bushes for about a hundred 
and fifty yards below the spot where the hippo was 
unconsciously basking, with his ugly head above the sur- 
face. Plunging into the rapid torrent, the veteran hunter 
was carried some distance down the stream, but breasting 

Q2 



228 THE HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTER. [chap. xiii. 

the powerful current, he landed upon the rocks on the 
opposite side, and retiring to some distance from the river, 
he quickly advanced towards the spot beneath which the 
hippopotamus was lying. I had a line view of the scene, as 
I was lying concealed exactly opposite the hippo, who had 
disappeared beneath the water. Abou Do now stealthily 
approached the ledge of rock beneath which he had ex- 
pected to see the head of the animal ; his long sinewy arm 
was raised, with the harpoon ready to strike, as he care- 
fully advanced. At length he reached the edge of the 
perpendicular rock ; the hippo had vanished, but, far from 
exhibiting surprise, the old Arab remained standing on the 
sharp ledge, unchanged in attitude. No figure of bronze 
could have been more rigid than that of the old river-king, 
as he stood erect upon the rock with the left foot advanced, 
and the harpoon poised in his ready right hand above his 
head, while in the left he held the loose coils of rope 
attached to the ambatch buoy. For about three minutes 
he stood like a statue, gazing intently into the clear and 
deep water beneath his feet. I watched eagerly for the 
reappearance of the hippo ; the surface of the water was 
still barren, when suddenly the right arm of the statue 
descended like lightning, and the harpoon shot perpendi- 
cularly into the pool with the speed of an arrow. Wliat 
river-fiend answered to the summons ? In an instant an 
enormous pair of open jaws appeared, followed by the 
ungainly head and form of the furious hippopotamus, who, 
springing half out of the water, lashed the river into 
foam, and, disdaining the concealment of the deep pool, he 
charged straight up the violent rapids. With extraordinary 
power he breasted the descending stream ; gaining a foot- 
ing in the rapids, about five feet deep, he ploughed his 
way against the broken waves, sending them in showers of 
spray upon all sides, and upon gaining broader shallows 
he tore along through the water, with the buoyant float 
hopping behind him along the surface, until he landed 
Irom the river, started at full gallop along the dry shingly 
bed, and at length disappeared in the thorny nabbuk 
jungle. 

I never could have imagined that so unwieldy an 



CHAP. XIII.] DEATH OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 229 

animal could have exhibited such speed ; no man would 
have had a chance of escape, and it was fortunate for our 
old Neptune that he Avas secure upon the high ledge of 
rock, for if he had been in the path of the infuriated beast, 
there would have been an end of Abou Do. The old 
man plunged into the deep pool just quitted by the hippo, 
and landed upon our side ; while in the enthusiasm of the 
moment I waved my cap above my head, and gave him a 
British cheer as he reached the shore. His usually stern 
features relaxed into a grim smile of delight : this was 
one of those moments when the gratified pride of the 
hunter rewards him for any risks. I congratulated him 
upon his dexterity: but much remained to be done. I 
proposed to cross the river, and to follow upon the tracks 
of the hippopotamus, as I imagined that the buoy and 
rope would catch in the thick jungle, and that we should 
find him entangled in the bush ; but the old hunter gently 
laid his hand upon my arm, and pointed up the bed of the 
river, explaining that the hippo would certainly return to 
the water after a short interval. 

In a few minutes later, at a distance of nearly half a 
mile, we observed the hippo emerge from the jungle, and 
descend at full trot to the bed of the river, making direct 
for the first rocky pool in wdiich we had noticed the herd 
of hippopotami. Accompanied by the old howarti (hippo 
hunter), we walked quickly towards the spot : he explained 
to me that I must shoot the harpooned hippo, as we 
should not be able to secure him in the usual method by 
ropes, as nearly all our men were absent from camp, 
disposing of the dead elephants. 

Upon reaching the pool, which was about a hundred 
and thirty yards in diameter, w^e were immediately greeted 
by the hippo, who snorted and roared as we approached, 
but quickly dived, and the buoyant float ran along the 
surface, directing his course in the same manner as the 
cork of a trimmer with a pike upon the hook. Several 
times he appeared, but, as he invariably faced us, I could 
not obtain a favourable shot ; I therefore sent the old 
hunter round the pool, and he, swimming the river, 
advanced to the opposite side, and attracted the attention 



230 SHOOT A HIPPOPOTAMUS. [chap. xiii. 

of the liippo, who immediately turned towards him. This 
afforded me a good chance, and I fired a steady shot" 
behind the ear, at about seventy yards, with a single- 
barrelled rifle. As usual with hippopotami, whether dead 
or alive, he disappeared beneath the water at the shot. 
The crack of the ball and the absence of any splash from 
the bullet told me that he was hit ; the ambatch float 
remained perfectly stationary upon the surface. I watched 
it for some minutes — it never moved ; several heads of 
hippopotami appeared and vanished in different directions, 
but the float was still ; it marked the spot where the grand 
old bull lay dead beneath. 

I shot another hippo, that I thought must be likewise 
dead ; and, taking the time by my watch, I retired to the 
shade of a tree with Hassan, while Hadji Ali and the 
old hunter returned to camp for assistance in men and 
knives, &c. 

In a little more than an hour and a half, two objects 
like the backs of turtles appeared above the surface : 
these were the flanks of the two hippos. A short time 
afterwards the men arrived, and, regardless of crocodiles, 
they swam towards the bodies. One was towed directly 
to the shore by the rope attached to the harpoon, the other 
was secured by a long line, and dragged to the bank of 
clean pebbles. 

I measured the bull that was harpooned; it was fourteen 
feet two inches from the upper lip to the extremity of the 
tail ; the head was three feet one inch from the front of 
the ear to the edge of the lip in a straight line. The 
harpoon was sticking in the nape of the neck, having 
penetrated about two and a half inches beneath the hide ; 
this is about an inch and three-quarters thick upon the 
bpck of the neck of a bull hippopotamus. It was a 
magnificent specimen, with the largest tusks I have ever 
seen ; the skull is now in my hall in England. 

Although the hippopotamus is generally harmless, the 
sohtary old bulls are sometimes extremely vicious, 
especially when in the water. I have frequently known 
them charge a boat, and I have myself narrowly escaped 
being upset in a canoe by the attack of one of these 



CHAP, xin.] HABITS OF THE ANIMAL. 231 

creatures, without the slightest provocation. The females 
are extremely shy and harmless, and they are most 
affectionate mothers : the only instances that I have 
known of the female attacking a man, have been those 
in which her calf had been stolen. To the Arabs they 
are extremely valuable, yielding, in addition to a large 
quantity of excellent flesh, about two hundred pounds 
pf fat, and a hide that will produce about two hundred 
coorbatches, or camel whips. I have never shot these 
useful creatures to waste ; every morsel of the flesh has 
been stored either by the natives or for our own use ; and 
whenever we have had a good supply of antelope or giraffe 
meat, I have avoided firing a shot at the hippo. Elephant 
flesh is exceedingly strong and disagreeable, partaking 
highly of the peculiar smell of the animal. We had now 
a good supply of meat from the two hippopotami, which 
delighted our people. The old Abou Do claimed the bull 
that he had harpooned as his own private property, 
and he took the greatest pains in dividing the hide longi- 
tudinally, in strips of the width of three fingers, which 
he cut with great dexterity. 

Although the hippopotamus is amphibious, he requires 
a large and constant supply of air; the lungs are of 
enormous size, and he invariably inflates them before 
diving. From five to eight minutes is the time that he 
usually remains under water ; he then comes to the 
surface, and expends the air within his lungs by blowing ; 
he again refiUs the lungs almost instantaneously, and if 
frightened, he sinks immediately. In places where they 
have become extremely shy from being hunted, or fired at, 
they seldom expose the head above the surface, but merely 
protrude the nose to breathe through the nostrils; it is 
then impossible to shoot them. Their food consists of 
aquatic plants, and grasses of many descriptions. Not 
only do they visit the margin of the river, but they 
wander at night to great distances from the water if 
attracted by good pasturage, and, although clumsy and 
ungainly in appearance, they clamber up steep banks and 
precipitous ravines with astonishing power and ease. In 
places where they are perfectly undisturbed, they not only 



%• 



232 ACTIVITY OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. [chap. xiv. 

enjoy themselves in the sunshine by basking half asleep 
upon the surface of the water, but they lie upon the shore 
beneath the shady trees, upon the river's bank ; I have 
seen them, when disturbed by our sudden arrival during 
the march, take a leap from a bank about twenty feet 
perpendicular depth into the water below, with a splash 
that has created waves in the quiet pool, as though a 
paddle-steamer had passed by. The Arabs attach no 
value to the tusks ; these are far more valuable thaif 
elephant ivory, and are used by dentists in Europe for 
the manufacture of false teeth, for which they are ad- 
mirably adapted, as they do not change colour. Not 
wishing to destroy the remaining hippopotami that were 
still within the pool, I left my men and old Abou Do 
busily engaged in arranging the meat, and I walked 
quietly homeward. 



CHAPTEE XIV. 

A FOEEBODIjSTG OF EVIL. 

I HAD been for some hours in the camp, but none of the 
aggageers had returned, neither had we received any 
tidings of our people and camels that had left us at 
daydreak to search for the dead elephants. Tearing 
that some mishap might have occurred in a collision 
with the Base, I anxiously looked out for some sign of 
the party. At about 4 P.M. I observed far up the bed 
of the river several men, some mounted, and others upon 
foot, while one led a camel with a curious looking load. 
Upon a nearer approach I could distinguish some large 
object upon the camel's back, that was steadied by two 
men, one of whom walked on either side. I had a fore- 
boding that something was wrong, and in a few minutes 
I clearly perceived a man lying upon a make-shift litter, 
carried by the camel, while the Sheik Abou Do and 



CHAP. XIV.] JALFS THIGH IS BROKEN. 233 

Suleiman accompanied the party upon horseback : a third 
led Jali's little grey mare. 

They soon arrived beneath the high bank of the river 
upon which I stood. Poor little Jali, my plucky and 
active ally, lay, as I thought, dead upon the litter. We 
laid him gently upon my angarep, which I had raised 
by four men, so that we could lower him gradually from 
tire "-kneeling camel, and we carried him to the camp, 
about thirty yards distant. He was faint, and I poured 
some essence of peppermint (the only spirit I possessed) 
down his throat, which quickly revived him. His thigh 
was broken about eight inches above the knee, but for- 
tunately it was a simple fracture. 

Abou Do now explained the cause of the accident. 
While the party of camel-men and others were engaged 
in cutting up the dead elephants, the three aggageers had 
found the track of a buU that had escaped w^ounded. 
In that country, where there was no drop of water upon 
the east 'bank of the Settite for a distance of sixty or 
seventy miles to the river Gash, an elephant if wounded 
was afraid to trust itself to the interior ; one of our 
escaped elephants had therefore returned to the thick 
jungle, and was tracked by the aggageers to a position 
within two or three hundred yards of the dead elephants. 
As there were no guns, two of the aggageers, utterly 
reckless of consequences, resolved to ride through the 
narrow passages formed by the large game, and to take 
their chance with the elephant, sword in hand. Jali, as 
usual, v/as the first to lead, and upon his little grey mare 
he advanced with the greatest difficulty through the 
entangled thorns, broken by the passage of heavy game ; 
to the right and left of the passage it was impossible to 
move. Abou Do had wisely dismounted, but Suleiman 
followed Jali. Upon arriving within a few yards of the 
elephant, which was invisible in the thick thorns, Abou 
Do crept forward on foot, and discovered it standing witli 
ears cocked, evidently waiting for the attack. As Jali 
followed on his light grey mare, the elephant immediately 
perceived the white colour, and at once charged forward. 
Escape was next to impossible : Jali turned his mare sharp 



234 JUNGLE SURGERY. [chap. xiv. 

round, and she bounded off, but caught in the thorns, the 
mare fell, throwing her rider in the path of the elephant 
that was within a few feet behind, in full chase. The 
mare recovered herself in an instant, and rushed away ; 
the elephant, occupied by the white colour of the animal, 
neglected the man, upon whom he trod in the pursuit, 
thus breaking his thigh. Abou Do, who had been 
between the elephant and Jali, had wisely jumped intg 
the thick thorns, and, as the elephant passed him, he again 
sprang out behind, and followed with his drawn sw^ord, 
but too late to save Jali, as it was the affair of an instant. 
Jumping over Jali's body, he was just in time to deliver a 
tremendous cut at the hind leg of the elephant, that must 
otherwise have killed both horses and probably Suleiman 
also, as the hree were caught in a cul de sac in a passage 
that had no outlet, and were at the elephant's mercy. 

Abou Do seldom failed ; it was a difficult feat to strike 
correctly in the narrow jungle passage with the elephant in 
full speed, but the blow was fairly given, and the back 
sinew was divided. Not content with the success of the 
cut, he immediately repeated the stroke upon the other leg, 
as he feared that the elephant, although disabled from rapid 
motion, might turn and trample Jali. The extraordinary 
dexterity and courage required to effect this can hardly be 
appreciated by those who have never hunted a wild 
elephant ; but the extreme agility, pluck, and audacity of 
these Hamran sword-hunters surpass all feats that I have 
ever witnessed. 

I set Jali's broken thigh, and employed myself in 
making splints ; fortunately, my tool-chest w^as at hand, 
and I selected some pieces of dry wood that had been left 
on the bank by the retiring river. I made two splints, one 
with a crutch to fit beneath the arm ; this I carried to 
about three inches beyond the foot, and cut a Y-shaped 
notch to secure the bandage; the other was a common 
short splint a.bout eighteen inches long. My wife quickly 
made about sixty yards of bandages, while Barrake, the 
maid, prepared thick gum water, from gum arable, that the 
mimosas produced in unlimited quantity. Fixing the long 
splint under the arm, and keeping it upon the outside of 



CHAP. XIV.] WE LOSE OUR BEST MAN. 235 

the thigh, with the leg perfectly straight, I lashed the foot 
and ankle securely to the V-shaped notch : I then strapped 
the upper portion of the splint with bandages passed 
around the patient's chest, until he was swathed from 
beneath the arms to the hips, thus securing the splint to 
his body. The thigh, and entire leg from the fork to the 
ankle, I carefully secured to the long splint with three 
rows of bandages, the first plain, and the last two layers 
were soaked in thick gum-water. When these became dry 
and hard, they formed a case like an armour of paste- 
board : previous to bandaging the limb in splints, I had 
bathed it for some hours with cold applications. 

On the following morning I expected to find my patient 
n great pain ; but, on the contrary, he complained very 
little. His pulse was good, and there was very little 
swelling or heat. I gave him some cooling medicine ; and 
the only anxiety that he expressed was the wish to get 
well immediately, so as to continue the expedition. 

The Arabs thought that I could mend the leg of a man 
as though it were the broken stock of a gun, that would 
be serviceable immediately when repaired. As these 
people never use spirituous liquors, they are very little 
subject to inflammation, and they recover quickly from 
wounds that would be serious to Europeans. I attended 
to Jali for four days. He was a very grateful, but unruly 
patient, as he had never been accustomed to remain quiet. 
At tlie end of that time we arranged an angare^^ comfort- 
ably upon a camel, upon which he was transported to 
Geera, in company with a long string of camels, heavil}^ 
laden with dried meat and squares of hide for shields, with 
large bundles of hippopotamus skin for whip making, 
together with the various spoils of the chase. Last, but 
not least, were numerous leathern pots of fat that had been 
boiled down from elephants and hippopotami. 

The camels were to return as soon as possible with 
supplies of corn for our people and horses. Another 
elephant-hunter was to be sent to us in the place of Jali ; 
but I felt that we had lost our best man.* 

* I heard from Jali six weeks later ; he was then well, and offered to 
rejoin us shortly, but I declined to risk the strength of his leg. 



236 MF TOKROOBIS BUTEmilNE TO DESERT, [ch. xiv. 

Although my people had been in the highest spirits up 
to this time, a gloom had been thrown over the party by 
two causes — Jali's accident, and the fresh footmarks of the 
Base that had been discovered upon the sand by the margin 
of the river. The aggageers feared nothing, and if the 
Base had been legions of demons they would have faced 
them, sword in hand, with the greatest pleasure. But my 
Tokrooris, who were brave in some respects, had been so 
cowed by the horrible stories recounted of these common 
enemies at the nightly camp-fires by the Hamran Arabs, 
that they were seized with a panic, and resolved to desert 
en masse, and return to Katariff, where I had originally 
engaged them, and at which place they had left their 
families. 

This desertion having been planned, they came to me in 
a body, just as the camels and Jali were about to depart, 
and commenced a series of absurd excuses for their in- 
tended desertion. The old grey-headed Moosa, by whose 
fortune-telling and sorcery the party were invariably 
guided, had foretold evil. This had confirmed them in 
their determination to return home. They were not a bad 
set of. fellows, but, like most of their class, they required 
peculiar management. If natives are driven, they inva- 
riably hate their master, and turn sulky ; if you give in to 
them, they lose respect, and will never obey. They are 
exceedingly subject to sudden impulses, under the influence 
of which they are utterly unreasonable. As the expedition 
depends for success entirely upon the union of the party, it 
is highly necessary to obtain so complete a control over 
every individual, that the leader shall be regarded with 
positive reverence, and his authority in all matters accepted 
as supreme. To gain such a complete ascendancy is a work 
of time, and is no easy matter, as an extreme amount of 
tact and judgment is necessary, combined with great kind- 
ness and common sense, with, at times, great severity. The 
latter should be avoided as long as possible. 

In this instance, the desertion of my Tokrooris would 
have been a great blow to my expedition, as it was neces- 
sary to have a division of parties. I had now Tokrooris, 
Jaleens, and Hamran Arabs. Thus they would never 



CHAP. XIV.] THE SICK ARE DOSED. 237 

unite together, and I was certain to have some upon my 
side in a difficulty. Should I lose the Tokrooris, the 
Hamran Arabs would have the entire preponderance. 

The whole of my Tokrooris formed in line before me and 
my wife, just as the camels were about to leave ; each man 
had his little bundle prepared for starting on a journey. 
Old Moosa was the spokesman, — he said that they were 
all very sorry : tliat they regretted exceedingly the neces- 
sity of leaving us, but some of them were sick, and they 
would only be a burden to the expedition ; that one of 
them was bound upon a pilgrimage to Mecca, and that God 
would punish him should he neglect this great duty; 
others had not left any money with their families in 
Katariff, that would starve in their absence. (I had given 
them an advance of wages, when they engaged at Katariff, 
to provide against this difficulty). I replied , " My good 
fellows, I am very sorry to hear all this, especially as it 
comes upon me so suddenly; those who are sick, stand 
upon one side " (several invalids, who looked remarkably 
healthy, stepped to the left). " Who wishes to go to 
Mecca ? " Abderachman stepped forward (a huge specimen 
of a Tokroori, who went by the nickname of " El 
Jamoos," or the buffalo.) " Who wishes to remit money 
to his family, as I will send it and deduct it from his 
wages ? " No one came forward. During the pause, I 
called for pen and paper, which Mahomet brought. I im- 
mediately commenced writing, and placed the note within 
an envelope, which I addressed, and gave to one of the 
camel-drivers. I then called for my medicine chest, and 
havins[ weioiied several three-crain doses of tartar emetic, 
I called the invalids, and insisted upon their taking the 
medicine before they started, or they might become seri- 
ously ill upon the road, which for three days' march was 
uninhabited. Mixed with a little water, the doses were 
swallowed, and I knew that the invalids were safe for that 
day, and that the others would not start without them. 

I now again addressed my would-be deserters : " Now, 
my good fellows, there shall be no misunderstanding be- 
tween us, and I will explain to you how the case stands. 
You engaged yourselves to me for the whole journey, and 



238 TOKROORIS CHECK-MATED. 

you received an advance of wages to provide for your 
families during your absence. You have lately filled your- 
selves with meat, and you have become lazy; you have 
been frightened by the footprints of the Base ; thus you 
wish to leave the country. To save yourselves from 
imaginary danger, you would forsake my wife and myself, 
and leave us to a fate which you yourselves would avoid. 
This is your gratitude for kindness ; this is the return for 
my confidence, when without hesitation I advanced you 
money. Go ! Eeturn to Katariff to your families ! I 
know that all the excuses you have made are false. Those 
who declare themselves to be sick, Inshallah (please God) 
shall be sick. You will all be welcomed upon yonr 
arrival at Katariff. In the letter I have written to the 
Governor, inclosing your names, I have requested him to 
give each man upon his appearance five hundred lashes 
with the coorhatch, for desertion ; and to imprison him until 
my return." 

Check-mate ! My poor Tokrooris were in a corner, and 
in their great dilemma they could not answer a word. 
Taking advantage of this moment of confusion, I called 
forward " the buffalo " Abderachman, as I had heard that 
he really had contemplated a pilgrimage to Mecca. 
" Abderachman," I continued, " you are the only man who 
has spoken the truth. Go to Mecca ! and may God protect 
you on the journey ; I should not wish to prevent you from 
performing your duty as a Mahometan." 

ISTever were people more dumbfounded with surprise; 
they retreated, and formed a knot in consultation, and in 
about ten minutes they returned to me, old Moosa and 
Hadji Ali both leading the pilgxim Abderachman by the 
hands. They had given in ; and Abderachman, the buffalo 
of the party, thanked me for my permission, and with tears 
in his eyes, as the camels were about to start, he at once 
said good-bye. " Embrace him ! " cried old Moosa and 
Hadji Ali ; and in an instant, as I had formerly succumbed 
to the maid Barrake, I was actually kissed by the thick 
lips of Abderachman the unwashed ! Poor fellow ! this 
was sincere gratitude without the slightest humbug ; 
therefore, although he was an odoriferous savage, I could 



CHAP. XIV.] ABOU BO'S WEAKNESSES. 239 

not help shaking him by the hand and wishing him a 
prosperous journey, assuring him that I would watch over 
his comrades like a father, while in my service. In a few 
instants these curious people were led by a sudden and new\ 
impulse ; my farewell had perfectly delighted old Moosa 
and Hadji Ali, whose hearts were won. " Say good-bye to 
the Sit ! " (the lady) they shouted to Abderachman ; but I 
assured them that it was not necessary to go through the 
whole operation to w^hich I had been subjected, and <that 
she would be contented if he only kissed her hand. This 
he did with the natural grace of a savage, and was led 
away crying by his companions, w^ho embraced him with 
tears, and they parted with the affection of brothers. 

Now to hard-hearted and civilized people, who often 
school themselves to feel nothing, or as little as they can, 
for anybody, it may appear absurd to say that the scene 
was affecting, but somehow or other it was ; and in the 
course of half-an-hour, those who would have deserted 
had become staunch friends, and we were all, black and 
white, Mahometans and Christians, wishing the pilgrim 
God speed upon his perilous journey to Mecca. 

The camels started, and, if the scene was affecting, the 
invalids began to be more affected by the tartar emetic ; 
this was the third act of the comedy. The plot had been 
thoroughly ventilated : the last act exhibited the perfect 
fidelity of my Tokrooris, in whom I subsequently reposed 
much confidence. 

In the afternoon of that day, the brothers Sheriff arrived; 
these were the most renowned of all the sword-hunters of 
the Hamrans, of whom I have already spoken ; they were 
well mounted, and, having met our caravan of camels on 
the route, heavily laden with dried flesh, and thus seen 
proofs of our success, they now offered to join our party. 
I am sorry to be obliged to confess, that my ally, Abou 
Do, although a perfect Mmrod in sport, an Apollo in 
personal appearance, and a gentleman in manner, was a 
mean, covetous, and grasping fellow, and withal absurdly 
jealous. Taher Sheriff was a more celebrated hunter, 
having had the experience of at least twenty years in 
excess of Abou Do, and although the latter was as brave 



240 THE BAOBAB. [chap. xiv. 

and dexterous as Taher and his brothers, he wanted the 
cool judgment that is essential to a first-rate sportsman. 
He was himself aware of his inferiority to Taher Sheriff, 
though too proud to admit it ; but, to avoid competition, 
he declined to allow the Sheriffs to join our party, de- 
claring that if I insisted upon the fresh alliance, he and 
his comrade Suleiman would return home. ^Totwith- 
standing his objections, I arranged for the present that, as 
Jali was hors de combat, Taher Sheriff's party should join 
us until the arrival of a fresh hunter in his place, other- 
wise our party would be incomplete. To prevent compli- 
cations, the greedy Abou Do selected his share of the 
ivory, carefully choosing the best and most perfect tusks, 
and he presented Taher's party with a small quantity of 
meat that would render them independent of his hospi- 
tality. I at once ordered my people to give them a large 
supply of both meat and corn from my own store, and 
they encamped in a quarter of our circle. 

The following day was the new year, January 1st, 1862 ; 
and, with the four brothers Sheriff and our party, we 
formed a powerful body of hunters : six aggageers and 
myself, all well mounted. With four gun-bearers, and 
two camels, both of which carried water, we started in 
search of elephants. Florian was unwell, and remained 
in camp. 

In this dry climate it was only necessary to ride along 
the margin of the river to look for fresh tracks, as the 
animals were compelled to visit the Settite to drink, and 
of coarse there was no dif&culty in discovering their 
traces. It appeared, however, that the elephants had 
been frightened away from the neighbourhood by the 
recent attack, as we rode for about ten miles without 
seeing any fresh marks. We therefore struck inland, on 
the east bank of the river, intending to return home by a 
circuit. The country was exactly like an English park, 
with no larger timber than thorn trees. Every now and 
then there was an exception in a gigantic homera {Adan- 
sonia digitata), or baobab ; these, towering over the heads 
of the low mimosas, could be seen from a great distance. 
Having steered direct for one, we halted, and dismounted 



CHA?. XIV.] TUE CROP OF GUM ARABIC. 241 

to rest the horses beneath the shade. This tree was about 
forty feet in circumference, and the spongy trunk was 
formed into a ladder by pegs of hard wood driven into 
its side by the Bas6 hunters, who had thus ascended the 
slippery stem in search of honey. Bees are very fond of 
these trees, as they are generally more or less hollow, and 
well adapted for hives. The Adansonia digitata, although 
a tree, always reminds me of a gigantic fungus ; the stem 
is disproportioned in its immense thickness to its height, 
and its branches are few in number, and as massive in 
character as the stem. The wood is not much firmer in 
substance than cork, and is as succulent as a carrot. In 
Kordofan, where water is exceedingly scarce, the Adan- 
sonia is frequently used as a reservoir ; one of these huge 
hollow trees is cleaned out and filled with water during 
the short rainy season. The fruit was ripe at the time we 
halted, and after many attempts, by throwing sticks, we 
succeeded in procuring a considerable number. The sub- 
acid flavour of the seeds, enveloped in a dry yellow powder 
within the large shell, was exceedingly refreshing. 

The immediate neighbourhood was a perfect exhibition 
of gum-arabic-bearing mimosas. At this season the gum 
was in perfection, and the finest quality was now before 
us in beautiful amber-coloured masses upon the stems 
and branches, varying from the size of a nutmeg to that 
of an orange. So great was the quantity, and so excellent 
were the specimens, that, leaving our horses tied to trees, 
both the Arabs and myself gathered a large collection. 
This gum, although as hard as ice on the exterior, was 
limpid in the centre, resembling melted amber, and as 
clear as though refined by some artificial process. The 
trees were perfectly denuded of leaves from the extreme 
drought, and the beautiful balls of frosted yellow gum 
recalled the idea of the precious jewels upon the trees in 
the garden of the wonderful lamp of the "Arabian nights." 
This gum was exceedingly sweet and pleasant to the 
taste ; but, although of the most valuable quality, there 
was no hand to gather it in this forsaken, although beauti- 
ful country ; it either dissolved during the rainy season, or 
was consumed by the baboons and antelopes. The agga- 



242 NOW FOR "A TALLY HO!'' [chap. xiv. 

geers took off from their saddles the skins of tanned 
antelope leather that formed the only covering to the 
wooden seats, and with these they made bundles of gum. 
When we remounted, every man was well laden. 

We were thus leisurely returning home through alternate 
plains and low open forest of mimosa, when Taher Sheriff, 
who was leading the party, suddenly reined up his horse, 
and pointed to a thick bush, beneath which- was a large 
grey, but shapeless, mass. He whispered, as I drew near, 
''Oom gurrin" (mother of the horn), their name for the 
rhinoceros. I immediately dismounted, and with the 
short !N"o. 10 Tatham rifle I advanced as near as I could, 
followed by Suleiman, as I had sent all my gun-bearers 
direct home by the river when we had commenced our 
circuit. As I drew near, I discovered two rhinoceros 
asleep beneath a thick mass of bushes ; they were lying 
like pigs, close together, so that at a distance I had been 
unable to distinguish any exact form. It was an awkward 
place ; if I were to take the wind fairly, I should have to 
fire through the thick bush, which would be useless ; 
therefore I was compelled to advance with the wind direct 
from me to them. The aggageers remained about a 
hundred yards distant, while I told Suleiman to return, 
and hold my horse in readiness with his own. I then 
walked quietly to within about thirty yards of the rhino- 
ceros, but so curiously were they lying that it was useless 
to attempt a shot. In their happy dreams they must 
have been suddenly disturbed by the scent of an enemy, 
for, without the least warning, they suddenly sprang to 
their feet with astonishing quickness, and with a loud and 
sharp whiff, whiff, whiff^ ! one of them charged straight at 
me. I fired my right-hand barrel in his throat, as it was 
useless to aim at the head protected by two horns at 
the nose. This turned him, but had no other effect, and 
the two animals thundered off together at a tremendous 
pace. 

JSTow for a " tally ho ! " Our stock of gum was scattered 
on the ground, and away went the aggageers in full speed 
after the two rhinoceros. Without waiting to reload, I 
quickly remounted my horse Tetel, and, with Suleiman in 



CHAP. XIV.] THE HUNT. 243 

company, I spurred hard to overtake the flying Arabs. 
T^tel was a good strong cob, but not very fast ; however, 
I believe he never went so well as upon that day, for, 
although an Abyssinian horse, I had a pair of English 
spurs, which worked like missionaries, but with a more 
decided result. The ground was awkward for riding at 
full speed, as it was an open forest of mimosas, which, 
although wide apart, were very difficult to avoid, owing to 
the low crowns of spreading branches ; these, being armed 
with fish-hook thorns, would have been serious on a 
collision. I kept the party in view, until in about a mile 
we arrived upon open ground. Here I again applied the 
spurs, and by degrees I crept up, always gaining, until I 
at length joined the aggageers. 

Here was a sight to drive a hunter wild ! The two 
rhinoceros were running neck and neck, like a pair of 
horses in harness, but bounding along at tremendous 
speed within ten yards of the leading Hamran. This was 
Taher Sheriff, who, with his sword drawn, and his long 
hair flying wildly behind him, urged his horse forward in 
the race, amidst a cloud of dust raised by the two huge 
but active beasts, that tried every sinew of the horses. 
Eoder Sheriff, with the withered arm, was second ; with 
the reins hung upon the hawk-lil^e .claw that was all that 
remained of a hand, but with his naked sword grasped 
in his right, he kept close to his brother, ready to second 
his blow. Abou Do was third ; his hair flying in the 
wind — his heels dashing against the flanks of his horse, 
to which he shouted in his excitement to urge him to the 
front, while he leant forward with his long sword, in the 
wild energy of the moment, as though hoping to reach the 
game against all possibility. Now for the spurs ! and as 
these, vigorously applied, screwed an extra stride out of 
T^tel, I soon found myself in the ruck of men, horses, 
and drawn swords. There were seven of us, — and passing 
Abou Do, whose face wore an expression of agony at 
finding that his horse was failing, I quickly obtained a 
place between the two brothers, Taher and Eoder Sheriff. 
There had been a jealousy between the two parties of 
aggageers, and each was striving to outdo the other ; thus 

u2 



244 CLOSE TO THEIR TAILS. [chap. xiv. 

Abou Do was driven almost to madness at tlie superiority 
of Taher's horse, while the latter, who was the renowned 
hunter of the tribe, was determined that his sword should 
be the first to taste blood. I tried to pass the rhinoceros 
on my left, so as to fire close into the shoulder my remain- 
ing barrel with my right hand, but it was impossible to 
overtake the animals, who bounded along with undi- 
minished speed. With the greatest exertion of men and 
horses we could only retain our position within about 
three or four yards of their tails — just out of reach of 
the swords. The only chance in the race was to hold the 
pace until the rhinoceros should begin to flag. The horses 
were pressed to the utmost ; but we had already run about 
two miles, and the game showed no signs of giving in. 
On they flew, — sometimes over open ground, then through 
low bush, which tried the horses severely ; then through 
strips of open forest, until at length the party began to 
tail off, and only a select few kept their places. We 
arrived at the summit of a ridge, from which the ground 
sloped in a gentle inclination for about a mile towards the 
river ; at the foot of this incline was thick thorny nabbuk 
jungle, for which impenetrable covert the rhinoceros 
pressed at their utmost speed. Never was there better 
ground for the finish of a race ; the earth was sandy, but 
firm, and as we saw the winning-post in the jungle that 
must terminate the hunt, we redoubled our exertions to 
close with the unflagging game. Suleiman's horse gave in 
— ^we had been for about twenty minutes at a killing pace. 
T^tel, although not a fast horse, was good for a distance, 
and he now proved his power of endurance, as I was 
riding at least two stone heavier than any of the party. 
Only four of the seven remained ; and we swept down the 
incline, Taher Sheriff still leading, and Abou Do the last ! 
His horse was done, but not the rider ; for, springing to 
the ground while at full speed, sword in hand, he forsook 
his tired horse, and, preferring his own legs, he ran like an 
antelope, and, for the first hundred yards, I thought he 
would really pass us, and win the honour of first blow. 
It was of no use, the pace was too severe, and, although 
running wonderfully, he was obliged to give way to the 



CHAP. XIV.] THE LAST MOMENT. 245 

horses. Only three now followed the rhinoceros — Taher 
Sheriff, his brother Eoder, and myself. I had been obliged 
to give the second place to Roder, as he was a mere 
monkey in weight ; but I was a close third. The excite- 
ment was intense — we neared the jungle, and the rhino- 
ceros began to show signs of flagging, as the dust puffed 
up before their nostrils, and, with noses close to the ground, 
they snorted as they still galloped on. Oh for a fresh 
horse ! " A horse ! a horse ! my kingdom for a horse 1 " 
We were within two hundred yards of the jungle ; but 
the horses were all done. Tetel reeled as I urged him 
forward, Eoder pushed ahead ; we were close to the dense 
thorns, and the rhinoceros broke into a trot ; they were 
done ! " Now, Taher, for-r-a-a~r-r-d ! for-r-r-a-a-r-d, 
Taher ! ! ! " Away he went — he was close to the very 
heels of the beasts ; but his horse could do no more than 
his present pace; still he gained upon the nearest; he 
leaned forward with his sword raised for the blow — 
another moment, and the jungle would be reached ! One 
effort more, and the sword flashed in the sunshine, as the 
rearmost rhinoceros disappeared in the thick screen of 
thorns, with a gash about a foot long upon his hind- 
quarters. Taher Sheriff shook his bloody sword in triumph 
above his head ; but the rhinoceros was gone. We were 
fairly beaten, regularly outpaced; but I believe another 
two hundred yards would have given us the victory. 
" Bravo, Taher," I shouted. He had ridden splendidly, 
and his blow had been marvellously delivered at an 
extremely long reach, as he was nearly out of his saddle 
when he sprang forward to enable the blade to obtain a 
cut at the last moment. He could not reach the ham- 
string, as his horse could not gain the proper position. 

We all immediately dismounted ; the horses were 
thoroughly done, and I at once loosened the girths and 
contemplated my steed T^tel, who with head lowered, 
and legs wide apart, was a tolerable example of the effects 
of pace. The other aggageers shortly arrived, and as the 
rival Abou Do joined us, Taher Sheriff quietly wiped the 
blood off his sword without making a remark ; this was 
a bitter moment for the discomfited Abou Do. 



246 mFFICULTY OF HUNTING. [chap. xiv. 

Although we had failed, I never enjoyed a hunt so 
much either before or since; it was a magnificent run, 
and still more magnificent was the idea that a man, 
with no weapon but a sword, could attack and generally 
vanquish every huge animal of creation. I felt inclined 
to discard all my rifles, and to adopt the sabre, with 
a first-class horse instead of the common horses of this 
country, that were totally unfit for such a style of hunt- 
ing, when carrying nearly fifteen stone. 

Taher Sheriff explained that at all times the rhinoceros 
was the most difficult animal to sabre, on account of his 
extraordinary swiftness, and, although he had killed many 
with the sword, it was always after a long and fatiguing 
hunt : at the close of which, the animal becoming tired, 
generally turned to bay, in which case one hunter oc- 
cupied his attention, while another galloped up behind, 
and severed the hamstring. The rhinoceros, unlike the 
elephant, can go very well upon three legs, which 
enhances the danger, as one cut wiU not utterly dis- 
able him. 

There is only one species of this animal in Abyssinia ; 
this is the two-horned black rhinoceros, known in South 
Africa as the keitloa. This animal is generally five feet 
six inches to five feet eight inches high at the shoulder, 
and, although so bulky and heavily built, it is extremely 
active, as our long and fruitless hunt had exemplified. 
The skin is about half the thickness of that of the hip- 
popotamus, but of extreme toughness and closeness of 
texture ; when dried and polished it resembles horn. 
Unlike the Indian species of rhinoceros, the black 
variety of Africa is free from folds, and the hide tits 
smoothly on the body like that of the buffalo. This two- 
horned black species is exceedingly vicious; it is one 
of the very few animals that will generally assume the 
offensive; it considers all creatures to be enemies, and, 
although it is not acute in either sight or hearing, it 
possesses so wonderful a power of scent, that it will detect 
a stranger at a distance of five or six hundred yards should 
the wind be favourable. 

I have observed that a rhinoceros wiU generally charge 




HKAI) <)1' Ul.Al K K111N()CKK(>S. 



CHAP. xrv\] POWER OF SCENT IN RHINOCEROS. 247 

down upon the object that it smells, but does not see ; 
thus when the animal is concealed either in high grass or 
thick jungle, should it scent a man who may be passing 
unseen to windward, it will rush down furiously upon the 
object it has winded, with three loud whiffs, resembling 
a jet of steam from a safety-valve. As it is most difficult 
and next to impossible to kill a rhinoceros when charging, 
on account of the protection to the brain afforded by the 
horns, an unexpected charge in thick jungle is particularly 
unpleasant ; especially when on horseback, as there is no 
means of escape but to rush headlong through all obstacles, 
when the rider will most likely share the fate that befell 
the unfortunate Jali. 

The horns of the black Abyssinian species seldom 
exceed two feet in length, and are generally much shorter ; 
they are not fitted upon the bone like the horns of all 
other animals, but are merely rooted upon the thick skin, 
of which they appear to be a continuation. Although the 
horn of a rhinoceros is a weapon of immense power, it has 
no solid foundation, but when the animal is killed, it can 
be separated from its hold upon the second day after 
death, by a slight blow with a cane. The base forms an 
exceedingly shallow cup, and much resembles the heart of 
an artichoke when the leaves have been picked off. The 
teeth are very peculiar, as the molars have a projecting 
cutting edge on the exterior side; thus the jaws when 
closed form a pair of shears, as the projecting edges of the 
upper and lower rows overlap : this makes a favourable 
arrangement of nature to enable the animal to clip off 
twigs and the branches upon which it feeds, as, although 
it does not absolutely refuse grass, the rhinoceros is 
decidedly a wood eater. There are particular bushes 
which form a great attraction, among these is a dwarf 
mimosa with a reddish bark : this tree grows in thick 
masses, which the rhinoceros clips so closely that it 
frequently resembles a quickset hedge that has been cut 
by the woodman's shears. These animals are generally 
seen in pairs, or the male, female, and calf; the mother 
is very affectionate, and exceedingly watchful and savage. 
Although so large an animal, the cry is very insignificant, 



248 RHINOCEROS' SNARE. • [ciiap. xiv. 

and is not unlike the harsh shrill sound of a penny 
trumpet. The drinking hour is about 8 p.m. or two hours 
after sunset, at which time the rhinoceros arrives at the 
river from his daily retreat, which is usually about four 
miles in the interior. He approaches the water by regular 
paths made by himself, but not always by the same route ; 
and, after drinking, he generally retires to a particular 
spot beneath a tree that has been visited upon regular 
occasions ; in such places large heaps of dung accumulate. 
The hunters take advantage of this peculiarity of the 
rhinoceros, and they set traps in the path to his private 
retreat ; but he is so extremely wary, and so acute is the 
animal's power of scent, that the greatest art is necessary 
in setting the snare. A circular hole about two feet deep 
and fifteen inches in diameter is dug in the middle of his 
run, near to the tree that has been daily visited ; upon 
this hole is placed a hoop of tough wood arranged with a 
vast number of sharp spikes of a strong elastic wood, 
which, fastened to the rim, meet in the centre, and overlap 
each other as would the spokes of a wheel in the absence 
of the nave, if lengthened sufficiently. We will simplify 
the hoop by calling it a wheel without a centre, the spokes 
sharpened and overlapping the middle. The instrument 
being fitted neatly above the hole, a running noose of the 
strongest rope is laid in the circle upon the wheel; the 
other extremity of the rope is fastened to the trunk of a 
tree that has been felled for that purpose, and deeply 
notched at one end to prevent the rope from slipping. 
This log, which weighs about five or six hundredweight, 
is then buried horizontally in the ground, and the entire 
trap is covered with earth and carefully concealed; the 
surface is smoothed over with a branch instead of the 
hand, as the scent of a human touch would at once be 
detected by the rhinoceros. When completed, a quantity 
of the animal's dung is swept from the heap upon the 
snare. If the trap is undiscovered, the rhinoceros steps 
upon the hoop, through which his leg sinks into the hole, 
and upon his attempt to extricate his foot, the noose draws 
tight over the legs ; as the spiked hoop fixing tightly into 
the skin prevents the noose from slipping over the foot. 



CHAP. XIV.] BJRRAKE POISONS HERSELF. 249 

Once caught, his first effort to escape drags the heavy log 
from the trench, and as the animal rushes furiously away, 
this acts as a drag, and by catching in the jungle and the 
protruding roots of trees, it quickly fatigues him. On the 
followincT morninor the hunters discover the rhinoceros 

o o 

by the track of the log that has ploughed along the ground, 
and the animal is killed by lances, or by the sword. 
The hide of a rhinoceros will produce seven shields ; 
these are worth about two dollars each, as simple hide 
before manufacture ; the horn is sold in Abyssinia for 
about two dollars per pound, for the manufacture of 
sword-hilts, which are much esteemed if of this material. 
Upon our return to camp, I found that the woman 
Barrak^ was ill. She had insisted upon eating a large 
quantity of the fruit of the hegleek tree {Balanites ^gyp- 
tiaoa), which abounded in this neighbourhood. This tree 
is larger than the generality in that country, being about 
thirty feet in height and eighteen inches in diameter ; 
the ashes of the burnt wood are extremely rich in potash, 
and the fruit, which is about the size and shape of 
a date, is sometimes pounded and used by the Arabs 
in lieu of soap for washing their clothes. This fruit 
is exceedingly pleasant, but in a raw state it has an 
irritating effect upon the bowels, and should be used 
in small quantities. Barrake had been cautioned by 
the Arabs and ourselves, but she had taken a fancy 
that she was determined to gratify ; therefore she had 
eaten the forbidden fruit from morning until night, and 
a grievous attack of diarrhoea was the consequence. My 
wife had boiled the fruit with wild honey, and had made 
a most delicious preserve; in this state it was not 
unwholesome. She had likewise preserved the fruit of the 
nabbuk in a similar manner : the latter resembles minute 
apples in appearance, with somethiug of the medlar in 
flavour ; enormous quantities were produced upon the 
banks of the river, which, falling when ripe, were greedily 
eaten by guinea-fowl, wild hogs, antelopes, and monkeys. 
Elephants are particularly fond of the fruit of the hegleek, 
which, although apparently too insignificant for the atten- 
tion of such mighty animals, they nevertheless enjoy 



250 FLORIAN KILLED BY A LION. [chap. xiv. 

beyond any other food, and they industriously gather 
them one by one. At the season when the fruit is ripe, 
the hegleek tree is a certain attraction to elephants, who 
shake the branches and pick up the fallen berries with 
theit trunks ; frequently they overturn the tree itself, as 
a more direct manner of feeding. 

Florian was quite incapable of hunting, as he was in a 
weak state of health, and had for some months been suffer- 
ing from chronic dysentery. I had several times cured 
him, but, as Barrake insisted upon eating fruit, so he had 
a weakness for the strongest black coffee, which, instead of 
drinking, like the natives, in minute cups, he swallowed 
wholesale in large basins, several times a day ; this was 
actual poison with his complaint, and he was completely 
ruined in health. He had excellent servants, — Eicharn, 
whom I subsequently engaged, who was my only faithful 
man in my journey up the White Nile, and two good Don- 
galowas. 

At this time, his old companion, Johann Schmidt, the 
carpenter, arrived, having undertaken a contract to 
provide, for the Italian Zoological Gardens, a number of 
animals. I therefore proposed that the two old friends 
should continue together, while 1 would hunt by myself, 
with the aggageers, towards the east and south. 

This arrangement was agreed to, and we parted. In the 
following season, I engaged this excellent man, Johann 
Schmidt, as my lieutenant for the White Nile expedition, 
on the banks of which fatal river he now lies, with the 
cross that I erected over his grave. 

Poor Florian at length recovered from his complaint, 
but was killed by a lion. He had wounded an elephant, 
which on the following morning he found dead ; a lion 
had eaten a portion during the night. While he was 
engaged with his men in extracting the tusks, one of his 
hunters (a Tokroori) followed the track of the lion on the 
sand, and found the animal lying beneath a bush ; he fired 
a single-barrelled rifle, and wounded it in the thigh. He 
at once returned to his master, who accompanied him to 
the spot, and the lion was found lying under the same 
bush, Licking the wound. Florian fired, and missed ; the 



CHAP. XIV.] GLOOMY PREDICTION FULFILLED. 251 

lion immediately crouched for a spring ; Florian fired his 
remaining barrel, the ball merely grazed the lion, who 
almost in the same instant bounded forward, and struck 
him upon the head with a fearful blow of the paw, at the 
same time it seized him by the throat. 

The Tokroori hunter, instead of flying from the danger, 
placed the muzzle of his rifle to the lion's ear, and blew 
its brains out on the body of his master. The unfortunate 
riorian had been struck dead, and great difficulty was 
found in extracting the claws of the lion, which had pene- 
trated the skuU. Florian, although a determined hunter, 
was an exceedingly bad shot, and withal badly armed for 
encounters with dangerous game; I had frequently pro- 
phesied some calamity from the experience I had had in a 
few days' shooting in his society, and most unhappily my 
gloomy prediction was fulfilled. 

This was the fate of two good and sterling Germans, 
who had been my companions in this wild country, where 
degrees of rank are entirely forgotten, provided a man be 
honest and true. I constantly look back to the European 
acquaintances and friends that I made during my sojourn 
in Africa, nearly all of whom are dead : a merciful Provi- 
dence guided us through many dangers and difficulties, 
and shielded us from all harm, during nearly five years of 
constant exposure. Thanks be to God. 

Our camels returned from Geera with corn, accompanied 
by an Abyssinian hunter, who was declared by Abou Do 
to be a good man, and dexterous with the sword. We 
accordingly moved our camp, said adieu to Florian and 
Johann, and penetrated stiU deeper into the Base. 



CHAPTER XV. 

ANTELOPES ON THE SETTITE. 

Our course lay as usual along the banks of the river, 
which we several times forded to avoid the bends. Great 
numbers of antelopes were upon the river's bed, having 
descended to drink ; by making a circuit, I cut off one 
party upon their retreat, and made two good shots with 
the Fletcher ]^o. 24, bagging two t^tel (Antelopus Bubalis), 
at considerable ranges. I also shot an ariel {G. Dama), 
and, upon arriving at a deep pool in the river, I shot 
a bull hippopotamus, as a present for Taher Sheriff and 
his brothers. We decided upon encamping at a spot 
known to the Arabs as Delladilla ; this was the forest 
upon the margin of the river where I had first shot the 
bull elephant, when the aggageers fought with him upon 
foot. The trees were larger in this locality than elsewhere, 
as a great portion of the country was flooded by the river 
during the rainy season, and much rich soil had been 
deposited ; this, with excessive moisture, had produced a 
forest of fine timber, with an undergrowth of thick nabbuk. 
We fixed upon a charming spot for a camp, beneath a large 
tree that bore a peculiar fruit, suspended from the branches 
by a strong but single fibre, like a cord ; each fruit was 
about eighteen inches in length, by six in diameter ; it was 
perfectly worthless, but extremely ornamental. We had 
arrived beneath this tree, and were still on horseback ; my 
wife had just suggested that it would be unpleasant should 
one of the large fruit fall upon our heads if we camped 
under the branches, when suddenly a lioness glided by us, 
within three yards of the horses, and almost immediately 
disappeared in the thick thorns ; unfortunately, I had the 
moment before given my rifie to a servant, prior to dis- 
mounting. I searched the bushes in every direction, but 
to no purpose. 



cuAF.xv.] TRIONIS NILOTICA, 253 

This spot was so favourably situated that I determined 
to remain for some time, as I could explore the country on 
horseback to a great distance upon all sides. We imme- 
diately set to work to construct our new camp, and by the 
evening our people had cleared a circle of fifty yards 
diameter ; this was swept perfectly clean, and the ground 
being hard, though free from stones, the surface was as 
even as a paved floor. The entire circle was well pro- 
tected with a strong fence of thorn bushes, for which the 
kittar is admirably adapted; the head being mushroom- 
shaped, the entire tree is cut down, and the stem being 
drawn towards the inside of the camp, the thick and wide- 
spreading thorny crest covers about twelve feet of the 
exterior frontage ; a fence thus arranged is quickly con- 
structed, and is quite impervious. Two or three large 
trees grew within the camp ; beneath the shade of this our 
tent was pitched. This we never inhabited, but it served 
as an ordinary room, and a protection to the luggage, 
guns, &c. The horses were well secured within a double 
circle of thorns, and the goats wandered about at liberty, 
as they were too afraid of wild animals to venture from 
the camp : altogether this was the most agreeable spot we 
had ever occupied ; even the night-fires would be perfectly 
concealed within the dense shade of the nabbuk jungle, 
thus neither man nor beast would be aware of our pre- 
sence. AVe were about a hundred paces distant from the 
margin of the river ; late in the evening I took my rod, 
and fished in the deep bend beneath a chff of conglomerate 
pebbles. I caught only one fish, a baggar, about twelve 
pounds, but I landed three large turtles ; these creatures 
were most determined in taking the bait ; they varied in 
size from fifty to about ninety pounds, and were the same 
species as that which inhabits the Nile (Trionis Nilotica). 
From one of them we took upwards of a hundred eggs 
which we converted into omelettes, but they were rather 
strong in flavour. 

Although this species of turtle is unprepossessing in 
appearance, having a head very like that of a snake, with 
a dark green shell spotted with yellow, it produces excel- 
lent soup ; the body is exceedingly flat, and the projecting 



254 FISH LINKED TO REPTILES. [chap. xv. 

edges of the shell are soft ; it runs extremely fast upon the 
shore, and is suggestive of the tortoise that beat the hare 
in the well-known race. Throughout the Nile and its 
tributaries there are varieties of fish and reptiles closely 
connected, and the link can be distinctly traced in the 
progression of development. There is a fish with a hard 
bony frame, or shell, that includes the head, and extends 
over more than half the body; this has two long and 
moveable spikes beneath the fore fins, upon which it can 
raise itself as upon legs when upon the land ; when first 
caught, this fish makes a noise something like the mewing 
of a cat : this appears to be closely linked to the tortoise. 
The Lepidosiren Annectens, found in the White Nile, is a 
link between the fish and the frog ; and certain varieties of 
mud fish that remain alive throughout a dry season in the 
sun-baked earth, and reappear with the following rains, 
exhibit a close affinity to reptiles. 

On the morning after our arrival, I started to explore 
the country with the aggageers, and rode about forty miles. 
From this point, hills of basalt and granite commenced, 
connected by rugged undulations of white quartz, huge 
blocks of which were scattered upon the smface ; in many 
of these I found thin veins of galena. 

All the rocks were igneous ; we had left the sandstone 
that had marked the course of the Atbara and the valley 
of the Settite as far as Ombrega, and T was extremely 
puzzled to account for the presence of the pure white and 
rose-coloured limestone that we had found only in one 
place — Geera. As we were now among the hills and 
mountains, the country was extremely beautiful ; at the 
farthest point of that day's excursion we were close to the 
high range from which, in the rainy season, innumerable 
torrents pour into the Settite ; some of these gorges were 
ornamented with the dark foliage of large tamarind trees, 
while upon rocks that did not appear to offer any 
sustenance, the unsightly yet mighty baobab* grasped 
with its gnarled roots the blocks of granite, and formed a 
peculiar object in the wild and rugged scenery. 

* The largest baobab {Adansonia digitata) that I have measured was 
fifty-one feet and one inch in circumference. 



CHAP. XV.] THE NELLUT, 255 

Through this romantic wilderness, the Settite flowed in 
a clear and beautiful stream, sometimes contracted between 
clitfs to a width of a hundred yards, at others stretching to 
three times that distance. The hippopotami were in great 
numbers ; many were lying beneath the shady trees upon 
the banks, and splashed into the water as we appeared ; 
others were basking in large herds upon the shallows ; 
while the young calves, supported upon the backs of their 
mothers, sailed about upon their animated rafts in perfect 
security. The Base had been here recently, as we dis- 
covered their footprints upon the sand, and we arrived at 
some tobacco plantations that they had formed upon the 
sandbanks of the river. The aggageers expressed their 
determination to sabre them should we happen to meet, 
and were much displeased at my immediately placing a 
veto upon their bloody intentions, with a reservation for 
necessity in self-defence. 

The Base were far too wide awake, and, although seen 
once during the day by. my people, they disappeared like 
monkeys; their spies had doubtless reported our move- 
ments ever since we had entered their country, and, fearing 
the firearms, they had retreated to their fastnesses among 
the mountains. 

During the day's march we had seen a large quantity of 
game, but I had not wished to shoot until on our return 
towards the camp. We were about four miles from home, 
when a nellut {A. St^^ejmceros) bounded away from a ravine. 
I was riding Tetel, whom I had taught to stand fire, in 
which he was remarkably steady. I made a quick shot 
with the little Fletcher from the saddle ; but, as the nellut 
ran straight before me, the bullet struck the haunch : 
away went the aggageers after the wounded animal, like 
greyhounds, and in a few hundred yards the sword finished 
the hunt. 

The Nellut is the handsomest of all the large antelopes ; 
the male is about thirteen hands high, and carries a pair of 
beautiful spiral horns, upwards of three feet in length ; the 
colour of the hide is a dark mouse-grey, ornamented with 
white stripes down the flanks, and a white line along the 
back from the shoulder to the tail. The female is without 



25G SWIMMING RIVERS WITH A HORSE, [chap. xv. 

horns, but is in other respects similar to the male. These 
beantiful animals do not inhabit the plains like the other 
varieties of antelopes, but are generally found in deep- 
wooded ravines. In South Africa it is known as the 
koodoo. 

The aggageers quickly flayed and quartered the game, 
which was arranged upon the horses, and thus it was 
carried to our camp, at which we arrived late in the 
evening. 

On the following morning, at my usual hour of starting, 
a little before sunrise, we crossed a deep portion of the 
river, through which the horses were obliged to swim ; on 
this occasion I rode Aggahr, who was my best hunter. In 
that very charming and useful book by Mr. Francis Galton, 
" The Art of Travel," advice is given for crossing a deep 
river, by holding to the tail of the swimming horse. In 
this I cannot agree ; the safety of the man is much endan- 
gered by the heels of the horse, and his security depends 
upon the length of the animal's tail. In rivers abounding 
in crocodiles, which generally foUow an animal before they 
seize, the man hanging on to the tail of the horse is a most 
alluring bait, and he would certainly be taken, should one 
of these horrible monsters be attracted to the party. I 
have always found great comfort in crossing a river by 
simply holding to the mane, just in front of the saddle, 
with my left hand, with the bridle grasped as loosely as 
possible, so that the horse does not feel the bit; in this 
position, on the off side, the animal does not feel any 
hindrance ; the man not only can direct his horse, but his 
presence gives it confidence, as he can speak to it coaxingly 
while swimming with one arm by its side. Upon landing, 
he at once controls the horse by the reins within his 
left grasp. 

Many horses become exceedingly scared in swimming 
a rapid river, and will frequently lose their presence of 
mind, and swim with the current, in which case they 
may miss the favourable landing place ; if the man holds 
by the tail, he has no control over the horse upon land- 
ing, and, if wild or vicious, the animal will probably kick 
up its heels and bolt away, leaving the unfortunate 



CHAP. XV.] THE LION HUNT. 2o7 

proprietor helpless. In swimming a river with the horse, 
the powder, &c. should he made into a parcel with your 
outer garment, and tied upon the head ; then lead your 
horse gently into the water, and for a moment allow it to 
drink, to prevent all shyness ; continue to lead it until you 
lose your depth, when, by holding witli your left hand to 
the mane, both horse and man will cross with perfect ease. 
We had crossed the river, and, as we passed through an 
opening in the belt of jungle on the banks, and entered 
upon a plain interspersed with clumps of bush, we per- 
ceived, at about two hundred yards distance, a magnificent 
lion, whose shaggy yellow mane gave him a colossal ap- 
pearance, as he stalked quietly along the flat sandy ground 
towards the place of his daily retreat. The aggageers 
whispered, '' EI Assut ! " (the lion), and instinctively the 
swords flashed from their sheaths. In an instant, the 
horses were at full speed sweeping over the level ground. 
The lion had not observed us ; but, upon hearing the sound 
of the hoofs, he halted and raised his head, regarding us 
for a moment with wonder, as we rapidly decreased our 
distance, when, thinking retreat advisable, he bounded off, 
followed by the excited hunters, as hard as the horses 
could be pressed. Having obtained a good start, we had 
gained upon him, and we kept up the pace until we at 
length arrived within about eighty yards of the lion, who, 
although he appeared to fly easily along like a cat, did not 
equal the speed of the horses. It was a beautiful sight. 
Aggahr was an exceedingly fast horse, and, having formerlv 
belonged to one of the Hamran hunters, he thoroughly 
understood his work. His gallop was perfection, and his 
long steady stride was as easy to" himself as to his rider ; 
there was no necessity to guide him, as he followed an 
animal like a greyhound, and sailed between the stems of 
the numerous trees, carefully avoiding their trunks, and 
choosing his route where the branches allowed ample 'room 
for the rider to pass beneath. In about five minutes we 
had run the lion straight across the plain, through several 
open strips of mimosas, and we were now within a few 
yards, but unfortunately, just as Taher and Ahow Do dashed 
forward in the endeavour to ride upon either flank, he 

s 



258 THE BULL BUFFALO. [chap. x\r. 

sprang down a precipitous ravine, and disappeared in the 
thick thorns. 

The ravine formed a broad bottom, which, covered with 
dense green nabbuk, continued for a great distance, and 
effectually saved the lion. I was much disappointed, as 
we should have had a glorious fight, and I had long sought 
for an opportunity of witnessing an attack upon the lion 
with the sword. The aggageers were equally annoyed, and 
they explained that they should have been certain to kill 
him. Their plan was to ride upon either fiank, at a few 
yards' distance, when he would have charged one man, who 
would have dashed away, while the other hunter would 
have slashed the lion through the back with his sword. 
They declared that a good hunter should be able to protect 
himself by a back-handed blow with his sword, should the 
lion attack the horse from behind; but that the great 
danger in a lion hunt arose when the animal took rel'uge 
in a solitary bush, and turned to bay. In such instances, 
the hunters surrounded the bush, and rode direct towards 
him, when he generally sprang out upon some man or 
horse ; he was then cut down immediately by the sabre of 
the next hunter. The aggageers declared that, in the event 
of an actual fight, the death of the lion was certain, 
although one or more men or horses might be wounded, or 
perhaps killed. 

The morning gallop had warmed our nags after their 
bath in the cool river, and we now continued leisurely 
towards the stream, upon the margin of which we rode for 
several miles. We had determined to set fire to the grass, 
as, although upon poorer soil it had almost disappeared 
through the withering of the roots, upon fertile ground it 
was almost nine feet high, and not only concealed the 
game, but prevented us from riding. We accordingly rode 
towards a spot where bright yellow herbage invited the 
iire-stick ; but hardly had we arrived, when we noticed a 
solitary bull buffalo {Bos Caffer), feeding within about a 
hundred and fifty yards. I immediately dismounted, and, 
creeping towards him to within fifty paces, I shot him 
through the neck with one of my Eeilly JSTo. 10 rifles. I 
had hoped to drop him dead by the shot, instead of which 



CHAP. XV.] DEATH OF TEE BULL, 259 

he galloped off, of course followed by the aga^ageers, 
with the exception of one, who held my horse. Quickly 
mounted, we joined in the hunt, and in about three minutes 
we ran the buffalo to bay in a thicket of thorns on the 
margin of the river. These thorns were just thick enough 
to conceal him at times, but to afford us a glance of his 
figure as he moved from his position. There was a glade 
which cut through and divided the jungle, and I wished 
the aggageers to drive him, if possible, across this, when 
I should have a good opportunity of shooting. To my 
astonishment, one of the most daring hunters jumped off 
his horse with his drawn sword, and, telling me to look 
out, he coolly entered the jungle alone to court the attack 
of the buffalo. I would not allow him to risk his life for 
an animal that I had been the first to w^ound, therefore I 
insisted upon his return, and begging Abou Do to hold my 
bridle when I should fire, I rode with him carefully along 
the skirts of the jungle along the glade, keeping a good 
look-out among the thorns for the buffalo. Presently T 
lieard a short grunt within twenty yards of us, and I quickly 
])erceived the buffalo standing broadside on, with his head 
to the wind that brought down the scent of the people on 
the other ' side. 

I had my little Fletcher No. 24 in my hand — that 
handy little weapon that almost formed an extra bone 
of myself, and, whispering to Abou Do to hold my bridle 
close to the bit, as Aggahr was not very steady under fire, 
I took a clean shot direct at the centre of the shoulder. 
The ball smacked as though it had struck an iron target. 
Aggahr gave a start, and for the moment both Abou Do 
and myself were prepared for a rush ; but the buffalo had 
never flinched, and he remained standinsj as thouoh im- 
moveable. Abou Do whispered, "You missed him, I 
heard the bullet strike the tree ; " I shook my head, and 
quickly re-loaded — it was imposible to miss at that 
distance, and I knew that I had fired steadily. Hardly 
had I rammed the bullet down, when, Mdth a sudden 
thump, down fell the buffalo upon his side, and, rolling 
over upon his back, he gave a few tremendous struggles, 
and lay dead. 

s2 



260 THE ARABS' TIT-BIT. [chap. xv. 

Great caution should be invariably used in approaching 
a fallen buffalo and all other dangerous animals, as they 
are apt to recover sufl&ciently, upon seeing the enemy, to 
make a last effort to attack, which is generally more 
serious than any other phase of the hunt. We accord- 
ingly pitched a few large stones at him to test the reality 
of death, and then walked up and examined him. The 
Eeilly No. 10 had gone quite through the neck, but had 
missed a vital part. The little Fletcher had made a clean 
and minute hole exactly through the shoulder, and upon 
opening the body we found the ball sticking in the ribs on 
the opposite side, having passed through the very centre 
of the lungs. 

The aggageers now carefully flayed it, and divided the 
tough hide into portions accurately measured for shields. 
One man galloped back to direct the two water-camels 
that were following in our tracks, while others cut up the 
buffalo, and prepared the usual disgusting feast by cutting 
up the reeking paunch, over which they squeezed the 
contents of the gall-bladder, and consumed the whole, 
raw and steaming.* On the arrival of the camels they 
were quickly loaded, and we proceeded to fire the grass on 
our return to camp. The Arabs always obtained their 
fire by the friction of two pieces of wood ; accordingly, 
they set to work. A piece of dry nabbuk was selected, 
about as thick as the little finger. A notch was cut in 
this, and it was laid horizontally upon the ground, with 
the notch uppermost : into this was fixed the sharp point 
of a similar piece of wood, about eighteen inches long, 
which, being held perpendicularly with both hands, was 
worked between the palms like a drill, with as great a 
pressure as possible, from the top to the bottom, as the 
hands descended with the motion of rubbing or rolling the 
stick. After about two minutes of great labour, the notch 
began to smoke, a brown dust, like ground coffee, fell 
from the singed wood, and this charred substance, after 
increased friction, emitted a still denser smoke, and com- 
menced smouldering ; the fire was produced. A rag was 

* All these Arabs, in like manner with the Abyssinians, are subject to 
the attacks of intestinal worms, induced by their habit of eatmg raw fle-nh. 




HORNS OF THE MAARIF ANTELOPE. 



CHAP. XV.] TEE MEHEDEEET ANTELOPE. 26 1 

torn from the tliorn-brushed drawers of one of the party, 
in which the fire was carefally wrapped and fanned vvitli 
the breath ; it was then placed in a wisp of dry grass, and 
rapidly turned in the air until the llame burst forth. 
A burning-glass should be always carried in these coun- 
tries, where a cloudless sky ensures an effect. Although 
in Arab hands the making of fire appears exceedingly 
simple, I have never been able to effect it. I have worked 
at the two sticks until they have been smoking and I have 
been steaming, with my hands blistered, but I have never 
got lieyond the smoke ; there is a peculiar knack which, 
like playing the fiddle, must be acquired, although it looks 
very easy. It is not every wood that will produce fire by 
this method ; those most inflammable are the cotton-tree 
and the nabbuk. We now descended to the river, and 
fired the grass ; the north wind was brisk, and the flames 
extended over miles of country w^ithin an hour. 

We returned towards the camp. On the way we saw 
numerous antelopes ; and, dismounting, I ordered one of 
the hunters to lead my horse while I attempted to stalk a 
fine buck mehedehet (Redunca Ellipsypri7rina). There 
were several in the herd, but there was a buck with a fine 
head a few yards in advance ; they were standing upon an 
undulation on open ground backed by high grass. I had 
marked a small bush as my point of cover, and creeping 
unobserved towards this, I arrived unseen within about a 
hundred and twenty yards of the buck. With the 
Fletcher 24 I made a good shoulder-shot ; the buck gave 
a few bounds and fell dead ; the does looked on in 
astonishment, and I made an equally lucky shot with 
the left-hand barrel, bringing down what I at first had 
mistaken to be a doe, but I discovered it to be a young 
buck. 

The Mehedehet is an antelope of great beauty ; it 
resembles the red deer in colour, but the coat is still 
rougher ; it stands about thirteen hands in height, with 
a pair of long slightly-curved annulated horns. The live 
weight of the male would be about five hundred pounds ; 
the female, like the nellut (Traydaphus Strep)siceros) , is 
devoid of horns, and much resembles the female of the 



262 " SAUFE qui FEVTP [cuaf. xv. 

Sambur deer of India. This antelope is the " water-buck" 
of South Africa. 

On arrival at the camp, I resolved to fire the entire 
country on the following day, and to push still farther 
up the course of the Settite to the foot of the mountains, 
and to return to this camp in about a fortnight, by which 
time the animals that had been scared away by the fire 
would have returned. Accordingly, on the following 
morning, accompanied by a few of the aggageers, I started 
upon the south bank of the river, and rode for some 
distance into the interior, to the ground that was entirely 
covered with high withered grass. We were passing 
through a mass of kittar and thorn-bush, almost hidden 
by the immensely high grass, when, as I was a ahead of 
the party, I came suddenly upon the tracks of rhinoceros ; 
these were so unmistakeably recent that I felt sure we 
were not far from the animals themselves. As I had 
wished to fire the grass, I was accompanied by my 
Tokrooris, and my horse-keeper, Mahomet No. 2. It was 
difficult ground for the men, and still more unfavourable 
for the horses, as large disjointed masses of stone were 
concealed in the high grass. 

We were just speculating as to the position of the 
rhinoceros, and thinking how uncommonly unpleasant it 
would be should he obtain our wind, when whiff ! whiff ! 
whiff! We heard the sharp whistling snort, with a 
tremendous rush through the high grass and thorns close 
to us ; and at the same moment two of these determined 
brutes were upon us in full charge. I never saw such a 
scrimmage ; saiwe, qui . jpeut ! There was no time for 
more than one look behind. I dug the spurs into 
Aggahr's flanks, and clasping him round the neck, I 
ducked my head down to his shoulder, well protected 
with my strong hunting-cap, and I kept the spurs going 
as hard as I could ply them, blindly trusting to Providence 
and. my good horse, over big rocks, fallen trees, thick 
kittar thorns, and grass ten feet high, with the two 
infernal animals in full chase only a few feet behind me. 
I heard their abominable whiffing close to me, but so did 
good horse also, and the good old hunter flew over obstacles 




RHINOCEROS DISPERSING THE PARLY, 



cnAr XV.] DISCOMFITURE OF OUR PARTY. 263 

that I should have thought impossible, and he dashed 
straight under the hooked thorn bushes and doubled like 
a hare. The aggageers were all scattered ; Mahomet No. 2 
was knocked over by a rhinoceros ; all the men were 
sprawling upon the rocks with their guns, and the party- 
was entirely discomfited. Having passed the kittar thorn, 
I turned, and, seeing that the beasts had gone straight on, 
1 brought Aggahr's head round, and tried to give chase, 
but it was perfectly impossible ; it was only a wonder that 
the horse had escaped in ground so difficult for riding. 
Although my clothes were of the strongest and coarsest 
Arab cotton cloth, which seldom tore, but simply lost a 
thread when caught in a thorn, I was nearly naked. My 
blouse was reduced to shreds ; as I wore sleeves only half 
way from the shoulder to the elbow, my naked arms were 
streaming with blood ; fortunately my hunting cap was 
secured with a chin strap, and still more fortunately I had 
grasped the horse's neck, otherwise I must have been 
dragged out of the saddle by the hooked thorns. All the 
men were cut and bruised, some having fallen upon their 
heads among the rocks, and others had hurt their legs in 
falling in their endeavours to escape. Mahomet No. 2, 
the horse-keeper, Avas more frightened than hurt, as he 
had been knocked down by the shoulder and not by the 
horn of the rhinoceros, as the animal had not noticed 
him ; its attention was absorbed by the horse. 

1 determined to set fire to the whole country imme- 
diately, and descending the hill towards the river to obtain 
a favourable wind, I put my men in a line, extending over 
about a mile along the river's bed, and they fired the grass 
in different places. With a loud roar, the flame leapt high 
in air and rushed forward with astonishing velocity ; the 
grass was as inflammable as tinder, and the strong north 
wind drove the long line of fire spreading in every direc- 
tion through the country. 

We now crossed to the other side of the river to avoid 
the flames, and we returned towards the camp. On the 
way, I made a long shot and badly wounded a t^tel, but 
lost it in thick thorns; shortly after, I stalked a nellut 
{A. Strepsiceros), and bagged it with the Fletcher rifle. 



264 DISCRETION THE BETTER PART OF VALOUR, fen. xv. 

We arrived early in camp, and on the following day we 
moved sixteen miles farther up stream, and camped under 
a tamarind tree by the side of the river. No European had 
ever been farther than our last camp, Delladilla, and that 
spot had only been visited by Johann Schmidt and 
Elorian. In the previous year, my aggageers had sabred 
some of the Base at this very camping-place ; they accord- 
ingly requested me to keep a vigilant watch during the 
night, as they would be very likely to attack us in revenge, 
unless they had been scared by the rifles and by the sizo 
of our party. They advised me not to remain long in this 
spot, as it would be very dangerous for my wife to be left 
almost alone during the day, when we were hunting, and 
that the Base would be certain to espy us from the 
mountains, and would most probably attack and carry 
her off when they were assured of our departure. She 
was not very nervous about this, but she immediately 
called the dragoman, Mahomet, who knew the use of a 
gun, and she askea him if he would stand by her in case 
they were attacked in my absence ; the faithful servant 
replied, " Mahomet fight the Base ? No, Missus ; Mahomet 
not fight ; if the Base come, Missus fight ; Mahomet run 
away ; Mahomet not come all the way from Cairo to get 
him killed by black fellers; Mahomet will run — Inshal- 
lah!" (please God). 

This frank avowal of his military tactics was very re- 
assurinf]^. There was a high hill of basalt, somethino- 
resembling a pyramid, within a quarter of a mile of us ; 
I accordingly, ordered some of my men every day to 
ascend this look-out station, and I resolved to burn the 
high grass at once, so as to destroy all cover for the con- 
cealment of an enemy. That evening I very nearly burnt 
our camp ; I had several times ordered the men to clear 
away the dry grass for about thirty yards from our resting- 
place ; this they had neglected to obey. We had been 
joined a few days befoie by a party of about a dozen 
Hamran Arabs, who were hippopotami hunters ; thus we 
mustered very strong, and it would have been the work of 
about half an hour to have cleared away the grass as I 
had desired. 



CHAP. XV.] THE CAMP IN DANGEIL 265 

The wind was brisk, and blew directly towards our 
camp, which was backed by the river. I accordingly took 
a fire-stick, and I told my people to look sharp, as they 
would not clear away the grass. I walked to the foot of 
the basalt hill, and hred the grass in several places. In 
an instant the wind swept the tiame and smoke towards 
the camp. All was confusion ; the Arabs had piled the 
camel-saddles and all their corn and effects in the high 
gTass about twenty yards from the tent ; there was no time 
to remove all these things ; therefore, unless tliey could 
clear away the grass so as to stop the fire before it should 
reach the spot, they would be punished for their laziness 
by losing their property. The fire travelled quicker than 
I had expected, and, by the time I had hastened to the 
tent, I found the entire party working frantically ; the 
Arabs were slashing down the grass with their swords, and 
sweeping it away with their shields, while my Tokrooris 
were beating it down with long sticks and tearing it from 
its withered and fortunately tender-rotten roots, in despe- 
rate haste. The flames rushed on, ind we already felt the 
heat, as volumes of smoke enveloped us ; I thought it 
advisable to carry the gunpowder (about 20 lbs.), down to 
the river, together with the rifles ; while my wife and 
Mahomet dragged the various articles of luggage to the 
same place of safety. The fire now approached within 
about sixty yards, and dragging out the iron pins, I let the 
tent fall to the ground. The Arabs had swept a line like 
a highroad perfectly clean, and they were still tearing 
away the grass, when they were suddenly obliged to rush 
back as the flames arrived. 

Almost instantaneously the smoke blew over us, but the 
fire had expired upon meeting the cleared ground. I now 
gave them a little lecture upon obedience to orders ; and 
from that day, their first act upon halting for the night 
was to clear away the grass, lest I should repeat the enter- 
tainment. In countries tkat are covered with dry grass, it 
should be an invariable rule to clear the ground around 
the camp before night ; hostile natives will frequently fire 
the grass to windward of a party, or careless servants may 
leave their pipes upon the ground, which fanned by the 



266 CROCODILE HARPOONING. [chap. xv. 

wind would quickly create a blaze. That night the moun- 
tain afforded a beautiful appearance as the flames ascended 
the steep sides, and ran flickering up the deep gullies with 
a brilliant light. 

We were standing outside the tent admiring the scene, 
which perfectly illuminated the neighbourhood, when sud- 
denly an apparition of a lion and lioness stood for an 
instant before us at about fifteen yards distance, and then 
disappeared over the blackened ground before I had time 
to snatch a rifle from the tent. No doubt they had been 
disturbed from the mountain by tlie fire, and had mistaken 
their way in the country so recently changed from high 
grass to black ashes. In this locality I considered it 
advisable to keep a vigilant watch during the night, and 
the Arabs were told oif for that purpose. 

A little before sunrise I accompanied the howartis, or 
hippopotamus hunters, for a day's sport. There were 
numbers of hippos in this part of the river, and we were 
not long before we found a herd. The hunters failed in 
several attempts to harpoon them, but they succeeded in 
stalking a crocodile after a most peculiar fashion. This 
large beast was lying upon a sandbank on the opposite 
margin of the river, close to a bed of ruslies. 

The howartis, having studied the wind, ascended for 
about a quarter of a mile, and then swam across the river, 
harpoon in hand. The two men reached the opposite 
bank, beneath which they alternately waded or swam 
down the stream towards the spot upon which the croco- 
dile was lying. Thus advancing under cover of the steep 
bank, or floating with the stream in deep places, and 
crawling like crocodiles across the shallows, the two 
hunters at length arrived at the bank of rushes, on the 
other side of which the monster was basldng asleep upon 
the sand. They were now about waist-deep, and they kept 
close to the rushes with their harpoons raised, ready to 
cast the moment they should pass the rush bed and come 
in view of the crocodile. Thus steadily advancing, they 
had just arrived at the corner within about eight yards of 
the crocodile, when the creature either saw them, or 
obtained their wind ; in an instant it rushed to the water ; 



CHAP. XV.] THE UGLY LITTLE STATUE. 267 

at the same moment, the two harpoons were launched with 
great rapidity by the hunters. One glanced obliquely 
from the scales ; the other stuck fairly in the tough hide, 
and the iron, detached from the bamboo, held fast, while 
the ambatch float, running on the surface of the water, 
marked the course of the reptile beneath. 

The hunters chose a convenient place, and recrossed the 
stream to our side, apparently not heeding the crocodiles 
more than we should fear pike when bathing in England. 
They would not waste their time by securing the crocodile 
at present, as they wished to kill a hippopotamus ; the 
float would mark the position, and they would be certain 
to find it later. We accordingly continued our search for 
hippopotami ; these animals appeared to be on the qui vive, 
and, as the hunters once more failed in an attempt, I made 
a clean shot behind the ear of one, and killed it dead. At 
length we arrived at a large pool in which were several 
sandbanks covered with rushes, and many rocky islands. 
Among these rocks was a herd of hippopotami, consisting 
of an old bull and several cows ; a young hippo was 
standing, like an ugly little statue, on a protruding rock, 
while another infant stood upon its mother's back that 
listlessly floated on the water. 

This was an admirable place for the hunters. They 
desired me to lie down, and they crept into the jungle out 
of view of the river ; I presently observed them stealtliily 
descending the dry bed about two hundred paces above 
the spot where the hippos were basking behind the rocks. 
They entered the river, and swam down the centre of the 
stream towards the rock. This was higlily exciting : — the 
hippos were quite unconscious of the approaching danger, 
as, steadily and rapidly, the hunters floated down the 
strong current ; they neared the rock, and both heads dis- 
appeared as they purposely sunk out of view ; in a few 
seconds later they reappeared at the edge of the rock upon 
which the young hippo stood. It would be difiicult to say 
which started first, the astonished young hippo into the 
water, or the harpoons from the hands of the howartis ! 
It was the affair of a moment ; the hunters dived directly 
they had hurled their harpoons, and, swimming for some 



268 THE HIPPO BETERMLNES TO FIGHT, [chap. xv. 

distance under water, they came to the surface, and 
hastened to the shore lest an infuriated hippopotamus 
should follow them. One harpoon had missed ; the other 
had fixed the bull of the herd, at which it had been surely 
aimed. This was grand sport! The bull was in the 
greatest fury, and rose to the surface, snorting and blowing 
in his impotent rage ; but as the ambatch float was exceed- 
ingly large, and this naturally accompanied his movements, 
he tried to escape from his imaginary persecutor, and 
dived constantly, only to find his pertinacious attendant 
close to him upon regaining the surface. This was not to 
last long ; the howartis were in earnest, and they at once 
called their party, who, with two of the aggageers, Abou 
Do and Suleiman, were near at hand ; these men arrived 
with the long ropes that form a portion of the outfit for 
hippo hunting. 

The whole party now halted on the edge of the river, 
while two men swam across with one end of the long rope. 
Upon gaining the opposite bank, I observed that a second 
rope was made fast to the middle of the main line ; thus 
upon our side we held the ends of two ropes, while on the 
opposite side they had only one ; accordingly, the point of 
junction of the two ropes in the centre formed an acute 
angle. The object of this was soon practically explained. 
Two men upon our side now each held a rope, and one of 
these walked about ten yards before the other. Upon both 
sides of the river the people now advanced, dragging the 
rope on the surface of the water until they reached the 
ambatch float that was swimming to and fro, according to 
the movements of the hippopotamus below. By a dex- 
terous jerk of the main line, the float was now placed 
between the two ropes, and it was immediately secured in 
the acute angle by bringing together the ends of these 
ropes on our side. 

The men on the opposite bank now dropped their line, 
and our men hauled in upon the ambatch float that was 
held fast between the ropes. Thus cleverly made sure, we 
quickly brought a strain upon the hippo, and, although I 
have had some experience in handling big fish, I never 
knew one pull so lustily as the amphibious animal that we 



|i|i{ii'iii,iii|i);' :iii| iriiiiim 




'It Jill ill 



~% 



m 





i ^ 



CHAP. XV.] THE LANCES ARE BLUNTED. 269 

now alternately coaxed and bullied. He sprang out of the 
water, gnashed his huge jaws, snorted with tremendous 
rage, and lashed the river into foam ; he then dived, and 
foolishly approached us beneath the water. We quickly 
gathered in the slack line, and took a round turn upon a 
large rock, within a few feet of the river. The hippo now 
rose to the surface, about ten yards from the hunters, and, 
jumping half out of the water, he snapped his great jaws 
together, endeavouring to catch the rope, but at the same 
instant two harpoons were launched into his side. Dis- 
daining retreat, and maddened with rage, the furious 
animal charged from the depths of the river, and, gaining 
a footing, he reared his bulky form from the surface, came 
boldly upon the sandbank, and attacked the hunters open- 
mouthed. He little knew his enemy ; they were not the 
men to fear a pair of gaping jaws, armed with a deadly 
array of tusks, but half a dozen lances were hurled at 
him, some entering his mouth from a distance of five or 
six paces, at the same time several men threw handfuls 
of sand into his enormous eyes. This baffled him more 
than the lances ; he crunched the shafts between his 
powerful jaws like straws, but he was beaten by the sand, 
and, shaking his huge head, he retreated to the river. 
During his sally upon the shore, two of the hunters had 
secured the ropes of the harpoons that had been fastened 
in his body just before his charge ; he was now fixed by 
three of these deadly instruments, but suddenly one rope 
gave way, having been bitten through by the enraged 
beast, who w^as still beneath the water. Immediately after 
this he appeared on the surface, and, without a moment's 
hesitation, he once more charged furiously from the water 
straight at the hunters, with his huge mouth open to such 
an extent that he could have accommodated two inside 
passengers. Suleiman was. wild with delight, and spring- 
ing forward lance in hand, he drove it against the head of 
the formidable animal, but without effect. At the same 
time, Abou Do met the hippo sword in hand, reminding 
me of Perseus slaying the sea-monster that w^ould devour 
Andromeda, but the sword made a harmless gash, and the 
lance, already blunted against the rocks, refused to pene- 



270 THE COUP DE GRACE. [ghap. xv. 

trate the tougli hide ; once more handfuls of sand were 
pelted upon his face, and, again repulsed by this blinding 
attack, he was forced to retire to his deep hole and wash it 
from his eyes. Six times during the fight the valiant bull 
hippo quitted his watery fortress, and charged resolutely 
at his pursuers ; he had broken several of their lances in 
his jaws, other lances had been hurled, and, falling upon 
the rocks, they were blunted, and would not penetrate. 
The fight had continued for three hours, and the sun was 
about to set, accordingly the hunters begged me to give 
him the coup de grace, as they had hauled him close to the 
shore, and they feared he would sever the rope with his 
teeth. I waited for a good opportunity, when he boldly 
raised his head from water about three yards from the 
rifle, and a bullet from the little Fletcher between the eyes 
closed the last act. This spot was not far from the pyra- 
midical hill beneath which I had fixed our camp, to which 
I returned after an amusing day's sport. 

The next morning, I started to the mountains to ex- 
plore the limit that I had proposed for my expedition on 
the Settite. The Arabs had informed me that a river 
of some importance descended from the moujatains, and 
joined the main stream about twelve miles from our camp. 
The aggageers were seriously expecting an attack from the 
Base, and they advised me not to remain much longer in 
this spot. The route was highly interesting : about five 
miles to the south-east of the camp we entered the hilly 
and mountainous country ; to the east rose the peaked 
head of Allatakoora, about seven thousand feet from the 
base, while S.S.E. was the lofty table-mountain, known by 
the Arabs as Boorkotan. We rode through fertile valleys, 
all of which were free from grass, as the various fires had 
spread throughout the country ; at times we entered deep 
gorges between the hills, which were either granite, quartz, 
or basalt, the latter predominating. In about three hours 
and a half we arrived at Hor Mehetape, the stream that 
the Arabs had reported. Although a powerful torrent 
during the rains, it was insignificant as one of the tribu- 
taries to the Settite, as the breadth did not exceed twenty- 
five yards. At this season it was nearly dry, and at no 



CHAP. XV.] ROUTE ALONG THE SETTITE. 271 

time did it appear to exceed a depth of ten or twelve feet. 
As we had arrived at this point, some distance above the 
junction, we continued along the margin of the stream for 
about two miles until ^ve reached the Settite. The Hor (a 
ravine) Mehetape was the limit of my exploration ; it was 
merely a rapid mountain torrent, the individual effect of 
which would be trilling ; but we were now among the 
mountains whose drainage caused the sudden rise of the 
Atbara river and the Nile. Far as the eye could reach to 
tlie south and east, the range extended in a confused mass 
of peaks of great altitude, from the sharp granite head of 
one thousand, to flat-topped basalt hills of five or six 
thousand feet, and other conical points far exceeding, and 
perhaps double, that altitude. 

The Settite was very beautiful in this spot, as it emerged 
from the gorge between the mountains, and it lay in a 
rough stony valley about two hundred feet below our path 
as we ascended from the junction of the Hor to better 
riding ground. In many places, our route lay over broken 
stones, which sloped at an inclination of about thirty 
degrees throughout the entire distance of the river below ; 
these were formed of decomposed basalt rocks that had 
apparently been washed from decaying hills by the torrents 
of the rainy season. At other parts of the route, wo 
crossed above similar d(ibris of basalt that lay at an angle 
of about sixty degrees, from a height of perhaps two 
hundred feet to the water's edge, and reminded me of the 
rubbish shot from the side of a mountain when boring a 
tunnel. The whole of the basalt in this portion of the 
country was a dark slate colour ; in some places it was 
almost black ; upon breaking a great number of pieces I 
found small crystals of olivine. Much of the granite was 
a deep red, but the exterior coating was in all cases de- 
composed, and crumbled at a blow ; exhibiting a marked 
contrast to the hard-faced granite blocks in the rainless 
cKmate of Lower Egypt. We saw but little game during 
the march — a few nellut and tetel, and the smaller 
antelopes, but no larger animals. 

We returned to camp late in the evening, and I found 
the howartis had secured the crocodile of yesterday, but 



272 DEPARTURE OF THE AGGAGEERS. [chap. xvi. 

the whole party was anxious to return to the camp at 
Delladilla, as unpleasant reports were brought into camp 
by our spies, who had seen parties of the Base in several 
directions. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

ABOU DO IS GEEEDY. 

Abou Do and Suleiman had lately given me some trouble, 
especially the former, whose covetous nature had induced 
him to take much more than his share of the hides of 
buffaloes and other animals that I had shot ; all of which 
I had given to my head camel-man and tracker, Taher 
Noor, to divide among his people and the Tokrooris. This 
conduct was more improper, since the aggageers had 
become perfectly useless as elephant-hunters ; they had 
ridden so recklessly upon unnecessary occasions, that all 
their horses were lamed, and, with the exception of Abou 
Do's, they were incapable of hunting. My three, having 
been well cared for, were in excellent condition. Abou Do 
coolly proposed that I should lend him my horses, which 
I of course refused, as I had a long journey before me ; 
this led to disagreement, and I ordered him and his people 
to leave my camp, and return to Geera. During the time 
they had been with me, I had shot great numbers of 
animals, including large antelopes, buffaloes, elephants, 
&c. ; and about twenty camel-loads of dried flesh, hides, 
fat, &c. had been transported to Geera as the Arabs' share 
of the spoils. They had also the largest share of ivory, 
and altogether they had never made so successful a hunting 
expedition. It was time to part ; their horses being used 
up, they began to be discontented, therefore I had con- 
cluded that it would be advisable to separate, to avoid a 
graver misunderstanding. 

I warned them not to disturb my hunting-grounds by 
attempting to hunt during their journey, but they were to 




GAME RETURNING KROM THE RIVER. 



CHAP. XVI.] GAME RETURNING FROM THE RIFER. 273 

ride straight home, which they could accomplish in four 
days, without baggage camels. This tliey promised to do, 
and we parted. 

I was now without aggageers, as Taher Sheriff's party 
had disagreed with Abou Do some time before, and they 
were hunting on their own account on the banks of the 
river Eoyan, which I intended to visit after I should have 
thoroughly explored the Settite. I made up my mind to 
have one more day in the neighbourhood of my present 
camp, and then to return to our old quarters at Delladilla, 
previous to our journey to the lioyan junction. 

Within three hundred yards of the camp was a regular 
game^ path, by which the animals arrived at the river 
to drink every morning from seven to nine. I had shot 
several t^tel and ariel by simply waiting behind a rock at 
this place, and, as this was my last day, I once more 
concealed myself, and was slxortly rewarded by the arrival 
of several herds, including nellut {A. Strepisceros), t^tel 
{A. Buhalis), ariel (G. Dama), the black-striped gazelle 
(G. Dorcas), the small oterop (Calotragus Montanus) ; and, 
among these, two ostriches. I had seen very few ostriches 
in this country. I now had a good chance, as the herd of 
animals returned from drinking by charging at full speed 
up the steep bank from the water, and "they passed about 
ninety yards from my hiding-place, headed by the ostriches. 
Having the little Fletcher, I was suddenly tempted to fire 
a right and left, so as to bag an ostrich with one barrel, and 
a tetel with the other. Both fell for an instant ; the t^tel 
dead, shot through the neck; but my ostrich, that was 
a fine cock bird, immediately recovered, and went off with 
his wife as hard as their long legs could carry them. I 
was exceedingly disgusted ; I had evidently fired too far 
behind, not having allowed sufficiently for the rapidity of 
their speed. However, to make amends, I snatched a 
spare single-rifle from Hassan, and knocked over another 
tetel that was the last of the herd. For about an hour I 
attempted to follow up the tracks of tlie ostrich, but among 
the rocky hills this was impossible. I therefore mounted 
Aggahr, and with my tracker, Taher Noor, and the Tok- 
rooris as gun-bearers, I crossed the river and rode straight" 

T 



274 ^ BULL RHINOCEROS. [chap. xvi. 

into the interior of tlie country. This was now thoroughly 
cleax, as the fire had consumed the grass, and had left the 
surface perfectly black. Upon the ashes, the track of every 
animal could be seen distinctly. 

I had ridden about four miles, followed, as usual, by two 
camels, with water, ropes, &c. when we observed in a per- 
fectly open place, about three hundred yards from us, a 
rhinoceros standing alone. Fortunately, there was little 
or no wind, or, as we were to windward of him, he would 
instantly have perceived us. The moment that I saw him, 
I backed my horse and motioned to my people to retreat 
out of sight, which they did immediately. Dismounting, 
I gave them the horse, and, accompanied only by Taher 
Noor, who carried one of my spare rifles, I took a Eeilly 
No. 10, and we made a circuit so as to obtain the wind, 
and to arrive upon the lee side of the rhinoceros. This 
was quickly accomplished, but upon arrival at the spot, 
he was gone. The black ashes of the recent fire showed 
his foot-marks as clearly as though printed in ink, and as 
these were very close together, I knew that he had walked 
slowly off, and that he had not been disturbed, otherwise 
he would have started quickly. He had gone down wind ; 
it would, therefore, be impossible to follow upon his tracks. 
Our only resource was to make another circuit, when, 
should his tracks not have crossed the arc, we should be 
sure that he was to windward. Accordingly, we described 
half a circle of about five hundred yards. No tracks had 
crossed our path ; the ground was stony and full of hollows, 
in which grew a few scattered mimosas, while the surface 
of the earth was covered in many places with dark brown 
masses of basalt rock. We carefully stepped over this 
uneven ground, lest some falling stone might give the 
alarm, and we momentarily expected to be in view of the 
.enemy as we arrived at the edge of each successive hollow. 
Sure enough, as I glanced down a sudden inclination 
covered with scorched mimosas, I perceived him standing 
on the slope beneath a tree within five-and-thirty paces ; 
this was close enough, and I took a steady shot behind 
the shoulder. The instant that I fired, he whisked sharply 
round, and looked upon all sides for the cause of his 



CHAP. XVI.] WE STALK THE RHINOCEROS. 275 

wound. I had taken the precaution to kneel down imme- 
diately after firing, and I now crouched close to a rock 
about two feet high, with which my brown blouse matched 
exactly, as well as my skin-covered hunting-cap. For a 
few moments he sought upon all sides for an enemy, 
during which I remained like a block of stone, but with 
my finger on the trigger ready for the left-hand barrel 
should he charge. Taher Noor was lying an the ground 
behind a stone about five yards from me, and the rhino- 
ceros, having failed to discover us, walked slowly past me 
within less than ten yards, and gained the summit of the 
inclination, where the ground was level. As he passed, I 
reloaded quickly, and followed behind him. I saw that he 
was grievously wounded, as he walked slowly, and upon 
arrival at a thickly-spreading mimosa he lay down. We 
now advanced towards the tree, and I sent Taher Noor 
round to the other side in order to divert his attention 
should he be able to rise. This he quickly proved by 
springing up as I advanced; accordingly, I halted until 
Taher Noor had taken his stand about eighty paces beyond 
the tree. The rhinoceros now turned and faced him ; this 
gave me the opportunity that I had expected, and I ran 
quickly to within thirty yards, just in time to obtain a 
good shoulder shot, as hearing my footsteps he turned 
towards me. Whiff! whiff 1 and he charged vigorously 
upon the shot ; but just as I prepared to fire the remaining 
barrel, he ran round and round in a narrow circle, uttering 
a short, shrill cry, and fell heavily upon his side. I threw 
a stone at him, but he was already dead. Taher Noor 
returned for the people, who shortly arrived with the 
camels. I found that the last bullet of quicksilver and 
lead from my Eeilly No. 10 had passed completely through 
the body, just behind the shoulder. The first shot was 
also a mortal wound, having broken one rib upon either, 
side, and passed through the posterior portion of the lungs ; 
the bullet was sticking under the skin on the opposite 
flank. The hide of the rhinoceros is exceedingly easy to 
detach from the body, as the quality is so hard and stiff 
that it separates from the flesh like the peel of a ripe 
orange. 

t2 



276 TEE AG GAGEmS POACH UPON MT MANOR, [ch. xiv. 

In a couple of hours, the hide had been detached in 
sections for shields, and sufficient flesh was loaded upon 
the camel, together with the vicious-looking head, which 
was secured by ropes upon the saddle. We were en route 
for the camp, when we suddenly came upon fresh elephant 
tracks, upon following which, we discovered, after about 
an hour's march, the spoor of horses on the same path. 
At once the truth flashed upon me that, although Abou 
Do had promised to return direct home, he was somewhere 
in the neighbourhood, and he and his two companions 
were disturbing the country by hunting. I at once gave 
up the idea of following the elephants, as, in all pro- 
bability, these aggageers had pursued them some hours 
ago. In a very bad humour I turned my horse's head and 
took the direction for the Settite river. As we descended 
from the hilly ground, after the ride of about four miles, 
we arrived upon an extensive plain, upon which I noticed 
a number of antelopes galloping as though disturbed ; 
a few moments later I observ^ed three horsemen, a camel, 
and several men on foot, steering in the same direction as 
ourselves for the river, but arriving from the high ground 
upon w^hich we had seen the elephants. These were soon 
distinguished, and I rode towards them with my people ; 
they were the aggageers, with some of the hippopotami 
hunters. 

Upon our arrival among th-em, they looked exceedingly 
sheepish, as they were caught in the act. Suspended most 
carefully upon one side of the camel, in a network of ropes, 
was a fijie young rhinoceros which they had caught, having 
hunted the mother until she forsook the calf Johann 
Schmidt had offered forty dollars for any young animal of 
this species, for the Italian menageries, therefore to the 
aggageers this was a prize of gTeat value. I had hardly 
directed my attention to the calf, when I noticed a rope 
that was forcibly placed under the throat to support the 
heavy head, the weight of which bearing upon the cord 
was evidently producing strangulation. The tongue of the 
animal was protruding, and the tail stiffened and curled 
convulsively above the back, while a twitching of the hind 
legs, that presently stretched to their full extent, persuaded 



CHAP. XVI.] TBEIR PRIZE DIES. 277 

me that the rhinoceros was in his last gasp. As I looked 
intently at the animal, while my Tokrooris abused Abou 
Do for having deceived us, I told the aggageers that they 
had not gained much by their hunt, as the rhinoceros was 
dead. For a moment Abou Do smiled grimly, and, quite 
unconscious of the real fact, Suleiman replied, "It is 
worth forty dollars to us." "Forty dollars for a dead 
rhinoceros caK!" I exclaimed; "who is fool enoug?i to 
give it ? " 

Abou Do glanced at the rhinoceros; his expression 
changed ; he jumped from his horse, and, assisted by 
the other aggageers, he made the camel kneel as quickly 
as possible, and they hastened to unstrap the unfortunate 
little beast, which, upon being released and laid upon its 
,side, convulsively stretched out its limbs, and lay a 
strangled rhinoceros. The aggageers gazed with dismay 
at their departed prize, and, with superstitious fear, they 
remounted their horses without uttering a w^ord, and rode 
away ; they attributed the sudden death of the animal to 
the effect of my " evil eye." We turned towards our camp. 
My Tokrooris were delighted, and I heard them talking 
and laughing together upon the subject, and remarking 
upon the extremely "bad eye" of their master. 

On the rising of the sun next day we had struck our 
camp, and were upon the march to Delladilla. On the 
way I shot a splendid buck mehedehet {R. Ellipsyprimna), 
and we arrived at our old quarters, finding no change 
except that elephants had visited them in our absence, and 
our cleanly swept circus was covered with the dung of a 
large herd. As this spot generally abounded with game, I 
took a single-barrelled small rifle, while the men were 
engaged in pitching the tent and arranging the camp, 
and with Taher Noor as my only companion, I strolled 
through the forest, expecting to obtain a shot at a nellut 
within a quarter of a mile. I had walked about that 
distance, and had just entered upon a small green glade, 
when I perceived, lying at full length upon the sand, 
a large lion, who almost immediately sprang up, and 
at the same moment received a bullet from my rifle 
as he bounded beneath a bush and crouched amonfi: some 



278 WE START FRESH GAME. [chap. xvi. 

withered grass. I was unloaded, when, to my astonish- 
ment, Taher J^oor immediately drew his sword, and, with 
his shield in his left hand, he advanced boldly towards the 
wounded lion. I reloaded as quickly as possible, just as 
this reckless Hamran had arrived within springing dis- 
tance of the lion, who positively slunk away and declined 
the fight ; retreating into the thick thorns, it disappeared 
before I could obtain a shot. Taher Noor explained, that 
his object in advancing towards the lion was to attract its 
attention ; he had expected that it would have remained in 
a crouching position until I should have reloaded ; but he 
ran the extreme risk of a charge, in which case he would 
have fared badly with simple sword and shield. Being 
close to the tent, I returned, and, in addition to my single- 
barrelled rifle, I took my two Eeillys IN"©. 10, with Hassan 
and Hadji Ali. In company with Taher Noor we searched 
throughout the bushes for the wounded lion, but without 
success. I now determined to make a cast, hoping that 
we might succeed in starting some other animal that 
would give us a better chance. The gTound was sandy 
but firm, therefore we made no sound in walking, and, as 
the forest was bounded upon two sides by the river, and 
separated from the main land by a ravine, the fire that 
had cleared the country of grass had spared this portion, 
which was an asylum for all kinds of game, as it afforded 
pasturage and cover. We had not continued our stroll for 
five minutes beyond the spot lately occupied by the lion, 
when we suddenly came upon two bull buffaloes, who were 
lying beneath a thick bush on the edge of a small glade : 
they sprang up as we arrived, and started off. I made a 
quick shot as they galloped across the narrow space, and 
dropped one apparently dead with a Eeilly No. 10. My 
Tokrooris were just preparing to run in and cut the throat, 
as good Mussulmans, when the buffalo, that was not 
twenty yards distant, suddenly sprang to his feet and 
faced us. In another moment, with a short grunt, he 
determined upon a charge, but hardly was he in his first 
bound, when I fired the remaining barrel aimed at the point 
of the nose, as this was elevated to such a degree that it 
would have been useless to have fired at the forehead. He 



CHAP. XVI.] BAIT FOR THE LIONS. 279 

fell stone dead at the shot ; we threw some clods of earth 
at him, but this time there was no mistake. Upon an 
examination of the body, we could only find the marks of 
the first bullet that had passed through the neck; there 
was no other hole in the skin, neither was there a sign 
upon the head or horns that he had been shot ; at length I 
noticed blood issuing from the nose, and we found that the 
bullet had entered the nostril; I inserted a ramrod as a 
probe, and we cut to the extremity and found the bullet 
imbedded in the spine, which was shattered to pieces in a 
portion of the neck. As a souvenir of this very curious 
shot, I preserved the skull. My men now flayed the 
bnffalo and took a portion of the meat, but I ordered 
them to leave the carcase as a bait for lions, with which 
this neighbourhood abounded, although it was exceedingly 
difficult to see them, as they were concealed in the dense 
covert of nabbuk bush. T left the buffalo, and strolled 
through the jungle towards the river. As I was leisurely 
walking through alternate narrow glades and thick jungle, 
I heard a noise that sounded like the deep snort of the 
hippopotamus. I approached the steep bank of the river, 
and crept carefully to the edge, expecting to see the hippo 
as I peered over the brink. Instead of the hippopotamus, 
a fine lion and lioness were lying on the sand about sixty 
yards to my left, at the foot of the bank. At the same 
instant they obtained our wind, and sprang up the high 
bank into the thick jungle, without giving me a better 
chance than a quick shot through a bush as they were 
disappearing. 

I now returned home, determined to circumvent the 
lions if possible in this very difficult country. That night 
we were serenaded by the roaring of these animals in all 
directions, one of them having visited our camp, around 
which we discovered his footprints on the following morn- 
ing. I accordingly took Taher Noor, with Hadji Ali and 
Hassan, two of my trusty Tokrooris, and went straight to 
the spot where I had left the carcase of the buffalo. As I 
had expected, nothing remained — not even a bone : the 
ground was much trampled, and tracks of lions were upon 
the sand ; but the body of the buffalo had been dragged into 



280 HIGHLY EXCITING. [chap. xvi. 

the thorny jungle. I was determined, if possible, to get a 
shot, therefore I followed carefully the track left by the 
carcase, which had formed a path in the withered grass. 
Unfortunately the lions had dragged the buffalo down 
wind; therefore, after I had arrived within the thick 
nabbuk and high grass, I came to the conclusion that 
my only chance would be to make a long circuit, and 
to creep up wind through the thorns, until I should be 
advised by my nose of the position of the carcase, which 
would by this time be in a state of putrefaction, and the 
lions would most probably be with the body. Accord- 
ingly, I struck off to my left, and continuing straight 
forward for some hundred yards, I again struck into the 
thick jungle, and came round to the wind. Success 
depended on extreme caution, therefore I advised my 
three men to keep close behind me with the spare rijB.es, 
as I carried my single-barrelled Beattie. This rifle was 
extremely accurate, therefore I had chosen it for this close 
work, when I expected to get a shot at the eye or fore- 
head of a lion crouching in the bush. Softly and with 
difficulty I crept forward, followed closely by my men ; 
through the high withered grass, beneath the dense green 
nabbuk bushes ; peering through the thick covert, with 
the nerves turned up to full pitch, and the finger on the 
trigger ready for any emergency. We had thus advanced 
for about half an hour, during which I frequently applied 
my nose to within a foot of the ground to catch the scent, 
when a sudden puff of wind brought the unmistakeable 
smell of decomposing flesh. For the moment I halted, 
and, looking round to my men, I made a sign that we 
were near to the carcase, and that they were to be ready 
with the rifles. Again I crept gently forward, bending, 
and sometimes crawling, beneath the thorns to avoid 
the slightest noise. As I approached, the scent became 
stronger, until I at length felt that I must be close to 
the cause. This was highly exciting. Fully prepared for 
a quick shot, I stealthily crept on. A tremendous roar in 
the dense thorns within a few feet of me suddenly brought 
my rifle to the shoulder : almost in the same instant I 
observed the three-quarter figure of either a lion or a 



CHAP. XVI.] AN OPPORTUNITY LOST. 28 1 

lioness within three yards of me, on the other side of the 
bush, under which I had been creeping — the foliage con- 
cealed the head, but I could almost have touched the 
shoulder with my rifle. Much depended upon the bullet ; 
and I fired exactly through the shoulder. Another tre- 
mendous roar! and a crash in the bushes as the animal 
made a bound forward, was succeeded immediately by a 
similar roar, as another lion took the exact position of the 
last, and stood wondering at the report of the rifle, and 
seeking for the cause of the intrusion. This was a grand 
lion with a shaggy mane ; but I was unloaded, keeping 
my eyes fixed on the beast, while I stretched my hand 
back for a spare rifle ; the lion remained standing, but 
gazing up wind with his head raised, snufiing in the air 
for a scent of the enemy. No rifle was put in my hand. 
I looked back for an instant, and saw my Tokrooris 
faltering about five yards behind me. I looked daggers 
at them, gnashing my teeth and shaking my fist. They 
saw the lion, and Taher Noot snatching a rifle from Hadji 
Ali, w^as just about to bring it, when Hassan, ashamed, ran 
forward — the lion disappeared at the same moment ! Never 
w^as such a fine chance lost through the indecision of the 
gun-bearers ! I made a vow never to carry a single- 
barrelled rifle again when hunting large game. If I had 
had my dear little Fletcher 24, I should have nailed the 
lion to a certainty. 

However, there was not much time for reflection — 
where was the first lion? Some remains of the buffalo 
lay upon my right, and I expected to find the lion 
most probably crouching in the thorns somewhere near 
us. Having reloaded, I took one of my Eeilly No. 10 
rifles, and listened attentively for a sound. Presently 
I heard within a few yards a low growl. Taher Noor 
drew his sword, and, with his shield before him, he 
searched for the lion, while I crept forward towards the 
sound, which was again repeated. A low raar, accom- 
panied by a rush in the jungle, showed us a glimpse 
of the lion, as he bounded off within ten or twelve yards : 
but I had no chance to fire. Again the low growl was 
repeated, and upon quietly creeping towards the spot, 



282 LIONESS BROUGHT INTO CAMP. [chap. xvi. 

I saw a splendid animal crouched upon the ground among 
the withered and broken grass. The lioness lay dying 
with the bullet wound in the shoulder. Occasionally, in 
her rage, she bit her own paw violently, and then struck 
and clawed the ground. A pool of blood lay by her side. 
She was about ten yards from us, and I instructed my 
men to throw a clod of earth at her (there were no stones), 
to prove whether she could rise, while I stood ready with 
the rifle. She merely replied with a dull roar, and I 
terminated her misery by a ball through the head. She 
was a beautiful animal ; the patch of the bullet was stick- 
ing in the wound ; she was shot through both shoulders, 
and as we were not far from the tent, I determined to 
have her brought to camp upon a camel as an oflering to 
my wife. Accordingly I left my Tokrooris, while I went 
with Taher Noor to fetch a camel. 

On our road through the thick jungle, I was startled 
by a rush close to me : for the moment I thought it 
was a lion, but almost at the same instant I saw a 
fine nellut dashing away before me, and I killed it 
immediately with a bullet through the back of the 
neck. This was great luck, and we now required two 
camels, as in two shots I had killed a lioness and a 
nellut (A. Strepsiceros). 

We remained for some time at our delightful camp 
at Delladilla. Every day, from sunrise to sunset, I was 
either on foot or in the saddle, without rest, except 
upon Sundays, which I generally passed at home, with 
the relaxation of fishing in the beautiful river Settite. 
There was an immense quantity of large game, and 
I had made a mixed bag of elephants, hippopotami, 
buffaloes, rhinoceros, giraffes, and great numbers of the 
large antelopes. Lions, although numerous, were exceed- 
ingly difficult to bag ; there was no chance but the extreme 
risk of creeping through the thickest jungle. Upon two 
or three occasions I had shot them by crawling into 
their very dens, where they had dragged their prey ; 
and I must acknowledge that they were much more 
frightened of me than I was of them. I had generally 
obtained a most difficult and unsatisfactory shot at close 



iVfr^ffliEt!i;;i 




CHAP. XVI.] DIFFICULTY IN TRACKING LIONS. 283 

quarters; sometimes I rolled them over with a mortal 
wound, and they disappeared to die in impenetrable 
jungle; but at all times fortune was on my side. On 
moonlight nights I generally lay in wait for these animals 
with great patience ; sometimes I shot hippopotami, and 
used a hind-quarter as a bait for lions, while I watched 
in ambush at about twenty yards distance; but the 
hyaenas generally appeared like evil spirits, and dragged 
away the bait before the lions had a chance. I never 
fired at these scavengers, as they are most useful crea- 
tures, and are contemptible as game. My Arabs had 
made their fortune, as I had given them all the meat 
of the various animals, which they dried and transported 
to Geera, together with fat, hides, &c. It would be 
wearying to enumerate the happy hunting -days passed 
throughout this country. We were never ill for a 
moment ; although the thermometer was seldom below 
88° during the day, the country was healthy, as it was 
intensely dry, and therefore free from malaria : at night 
the thermometer averaged 70°, which was a delightful 
temperature for those who exist in the open air. 

As our camp was full of meat, either dried or in the 
process of drying in festoons upon the trees, we had 
been a great attraction to the beasts of prey, who con- 
stantly prowled around our thorn fence during the night. 
One night in particular a lion attempted to enter, but 
had been repulsed by the Tokrooris, who pelted him 
with firebrands ; my people woke me up and begged me 
to shoot him, but, as it was perfectly impossible to fire 
correctly through the hedge of thorns, I refused to be 
disturbed, but I promised to hunt for him on the following 
day. Throughout the entire night the lion prowled around 
the camp, growling and uttering his peculiar guttural 
sigh. Not one of my people slept, as they declared he 
would bound into the camp and take somebody, unless 
they kept up the watch-fires and drove him away with 
brands. The next day, before sunrise, I called Hassan 
and Hadji Ali, whom I lectured severely upon their 
cowardice on a former occasion, and I received their 
promise to follow me to death. I entrusted them with 



284 VIS A VIS WITH A LION. [chap. xvi. 

my two Keillys N'o. 10 ; and with my little Fletcher in 
hand, I determined to spend the whole day in searching 
every thicket of the forest for lions, as I felt con- 
\T.nced that the animal that had disturbed ns during 
the night was concealed somewhere within the neigh- 
bouring jungle. 

The whole day passed fruitlessly ; I had crept through 
the thickest thorns in vain ; having abundance of meat, 
I had refused the most tempting shots at buffaloes and 
large antelopes, as I had devoted myself exclusively to 
lions. I was much disappointed, as the evening had 
arrived without a shot having been fired, and as the sun 
had nearly set, I wandered slowly towards home. Passing 
through alternate open glades of a few yards width, 
hemmed in on all sides by thick jungle, I was carelessly 
carrying my rifle upon my shoulder, as I pushed my 
way through the opposing thorns, when a sudden roar, 
just before me, at once brought the rifle upon full cock, 
and I saw a magnificent lion standing in the middle of 
the glade, about ten yards from me : he had been lying 
on the ground, and had started to his feet upon hearing 
me approach through the jungle. For an instant he 
stood in an attitude of attention, as we were hardly 
visible ; but at the same moment I took a quick but 
sure shot with the little Fletcher. He gave a convulsive 
bound, but rolled over backwards : before he could re- 
cover himself, I fired the left-hand barrel. It was a 
glorious sight. I had advanced a few steps into the 
glade, and Hassan had quickly handed me a spare rifle, 
while Taher Noor stood by me sword in hand. The 
lion in the greatest fury, with his shaggy mane bristled 
in the air, roared with death-like growls, as open-mouthed 
he endeavoured to charge upon us ; but he dragged his 
hind-quarters upon the ground, and 1 saw immediately 
that the little Fletcher had broken his spine. In his 
tremendous exertions to attack, he rolled over and over, 
gnashing his horrible jaws, and tearing holes in the 
sandy ground at each blow of his tremendous paws, that 
would have crushed a man's skull like an egg-shell. 
Seeing that he was liors de combat, I took it coolly, as 



CHAP. XVI.] TETEL FACES TEE WOUNDED LION. 285 

it was already dusk, and the lion having rolled into a 
dark and thick bush, I thought it would be advisable 
to defer the final attack, as he would be dead before 
morning. We were not ten minutes' walk from the 
camp, at which we quickly arrived, and my men greatly 
rejoiced at the discomfiture of their enemy, as they were 
convinced that he was the same lion that had attempted 
to enter the zareeba. 

On the following morning, before sunrise, I started 
with nearly all my people and a powerful camel, with 
the intention of bringing the lion home entire. I rode 
my horse Tetel, who had frequently shown great courage, 
and I wished to prove whether he would advance to the 
body of a lion. 

Upon arrival near the spot which we supposed to 
have been the scene of the encounter, we were rather 
puzzled, as there was nothing to distinguish the locality ; 
one place exactly resembled another, as the country was 
flat and sandy, interspersed with thick jungle of green 
nabbuk; we accordingly spread out to beat for the lion. 
Presently Hadji Ali cried out : " There he lies dead ! " 
and I immediately rode to the spot, together with the 
people. A tremendous roar greeted us, as the lion started 
to his fore- feet, and with his beautiful mane erect, and 
his great hazel eyes flashing fire, he gave a succession 
of deep short roars, and challenged us to fight. Tliis 
was a grand picture ; he looked like a true lord of the 
forest, but I pitied the poor brute, as he was helpless, 
and, although his spirit was game to the last, his strength 
was paralysed by a broken back. 

It was a glorious opportunity for the horse. At the 
first unexpected roar, the camel had bolted with its 
rider ; the horse had for a moment started on one side, 
and the men had scattered; but in an instant I had 
reined Tetel up, and I now rode straight towards the 
lion, who courted the encounter about twenty paces 
distant. I halted exactly opposite the noble-looking 
beast, who, seeing me in advance of the party, increased 
his rage, and growled deeply, fixing his glance upon the 
horse. I now patted T^tel on the neck, and spoke to 



286 COURAGE OF tLtEL. [chap. xvi. 

him coaxingly ; lie gazed intently at the lion, erected 
his mane, and snorted, but showed no signs of retreat. 
" Bravo ! old boy ! " I said, and, encouraging him by 
caressing his neck with my hand, I touched his flank 
gently with my heel ; I let him just feel my hand upon 
the rein, and with a " Come along, old lad," Tetel slowly 
but resolutely advanced step by step towards the in- 
furiated lion, that greeted him with continued growls. 
The horse several times snorted loudly, and stared fixedly 
at the terrible face before him ; but as I constantly 
patted and coaxed him, he did not refuse to advance. 
I checked him when within about six yards from the 
lion. This would have made a magnificent picture, as 
the horse, with astounding courage, faced the lion at 
bay; both animals kept their eyes fixed upon each other, 
the one beaming with rage, the other with cool determi- 
nation. This was enough — I dropped the reins upon 
his neck; it was a signal that Tetel perfectly under- 
stood, and he stood firm as a rock, for he knew that I 
was about to fire. I took aim at the head of the 
glorious but distressed lion, and a bullet from the little 
Fletcher dropped him dead. Tetel never flinched at a 
shot. I now dismounted, and having patted and coaxed 
the horse, I led him up to the body of the lion, which I 
also patted, and then gave my hand to the horse to smell. 
He snorted once or twice, and as I released my hold of 
the reins, and left him entirely free, he slowly lowered 
his head, and sniffed the mane of the dead lion : he then 
turned a few paces upon one side, and commenced eating 
the withered grass beneath the nabbuk bushes. My 
Arabs were perfectly delighted with this extraordinary 
instance of courage exhibited by the horse. I had known 
that the beast was disabled, but Tetel had advanced 
boldly towards the angry jaws of a lion that appeared 
about to spring. The camel was now brought to the 
spot and blindfolded, while we endeavoured to secure 
the lion upon its back. As the camel knelt, it required 
the united exertions of eight men, including myself, to 
raise the ponderous animal, and to secure it across the 
saddle. 



CHAP. XVI.] WE COMMENCE SOAP-BOILING. 2S7 

Although so active and cat-like in its movements, a 
full-grown lion weighs about five hundred and fifty- 
pounds. Having secured it, we shortly arrived in camp ; 
the coup d'ceil was beautiful, as the camel entered the 
inclosure with the shaggy head and massive paws of 
the dead lion hanging upon one flank, while the tail 
]iearly descended to the ground upon the opposite side. 
It was laid at full length before my wife, to whom the 
claws were dedicated as a trophy to be worn around 
the neck as a talisman. Not only are the claws prized 
by the Arabs, but the moustache of the lion is carefully 
preserved and sewn in a leather envelope, to be worn as 
an amulet ; such a charm is supposed to protect the 
wearer from the attacks of wild animals. 

In all probability, this was the lion that was in the 
habit of visiting our camp, as from that date, although 
the roars of such animals were our nightly music, we 
were never afterwards visited so closely. 

As game was plentiful, the lions were exceedingly fat, 
and we preserved a large quantity of this for our lamps. 
When it was boiled down it was well adapted for burning, 
as it remained nearly liquid. 

We had a large supply of various kinds of fat, 
including that of elephants, hippopotami, lions, and 
rhinoceros ; but our stock of soap was exhausted, there- 
fore I determined to convert a quantity of our gi-ease 
into that very necessary article. 

Soap-boiling is not so easy as may be imagined; it 
requires not only much attention, but the quality is 
dependent upon the proper mixture of the alkalis. Sixty 
parts of potash and forty of lime are, I believe, the 
proportions for common soap. I had neither lime nor 
potash, but I shortly procured both. The hegleek tree 
{Balanites Egyptiaca) was extremely rich in potash; 
therefore I burned a large quantity, and made a strong 
ley with the ashes ; this I concentrated by boiling. There 
was no limestone ; but the river produced a plentiful 
supply of large oyster-shells, that, if burned, would 
yield excellent lime. Accordingly I constructed a kiln, 
with the assistance of the white ants. The country was 



288 SAVON A LA BETE FJEROCE. [chap. xvr. 

infested with these creatures, which had erected their 
dwellings in all directions; these were cones from six to 
ten feet high, formed of clay so thoroughly cemented by 
a glutinous preparation of the insects, that it was harder 
than sun-baked brick. I selected an egg-shaped hill, 
and cut off the top, exactly as we take off the slice from 
an egg. ]\Iy Tokrooris then worked hard, and with a 
hoe and their lances, they hollowed it out to the base, 
in spite of the attacks of the ants, which punished the 
legs of the intruders considerably. I now made a 
draught-hole from the outside base, at right angles with 
the bottom of the hollow cone. My kiln was perfect. I 
loaded it with wood, upon which I piled about six bushels 
of oyster-shells, which I then covered with fuel, and 
kept it burning for twenty-four hours. This produced 
excellent lime, and I commenced my soap-boiliag. We 
possessed an immense copper pot of Egyptian manu- 
facture, in addition to a large and deep copper basin 
called a " teshti." These would contain about ten gallons. 
The ley having been boiled down to great strength, I 
added a quantity of lime, and the necessary fat. It 
required ten hours' boiling, combined with careful manage- 
ment of the fire, as it would frequently ascend like foam, 
and overflow the edge of the utensils. However, at 
length, having been constantly stirred, it turned to soap. 
Before it became cold, I formed it into cakes and balls 
with my hands, and the result of the manufacture was 
a weight of about forty pounds of most excellent soap, 
of a very sporting description, " Savon a la hete feroce." 
We thus washed with rhinoceros soap; our lamp was 
trimmed with oil of lions ; our butter for cooking purposes 
was the fat of hippopotami, while our pomade was made 
from the marrow of buffaloes and antelopes, scented with 
the blossoms of mimosas. We were entirely independent, 
as our whole party had subsisted upon the produce of 
the rod and the rifle. 

We were now destined to be deprived of two members 
of the party. Mahomet had become simply unbearable, 
and he was so impertinent that I was obliged to take 
a thin cane from one of the Arabs and administer a little 



CHAP. XVII.] WE BURY POOR BARRAKE. 289 

physical advice. An evil spirit possessed the man, and he 
bolted off with some of the camel men who were returning 
to Geera with dried meat.* 

Our great loss was Barrake. She had persisted in 
eating the fruit of the hegleek, although she had suffered 
from dysentery upon several occasions. She was at length 
attacked with congestion of the liver. My wife took 
the greatest care of her, and for weeks she had given 
her the entire produce of the goats, hoping that milk 
would keep up her strength ; but she died after great 
suffering, and we buried the poor creature, and moved 
our camp. 



CHAPTEE XVII. 

WE REACH THE ROYAN. 

Having explored the Settite into the gorge of the moun- 
tain chain of Abyssinia, we now turned due south from 
our camp of Delladilla, and at a distance of twelve miles 
we reached the river Koyan. The intervening country 
was the high and flat table-land of rich soil, that charac- 
terises the course of the Settite and Atbara rivers ; this 
land was covered with hegleek trees of considerable size, 
and the descent to the Koyan was through a valley, torn 

* Some months afterwards lie found his way to Khartoum, where he 
was imprisoned by the Governor for having deserted. He subsequently 
engaged himself as a soldier in a slave-hunting expedition on the White 
Nile ; and some years later, on our return from the Albert N'yanza, we 
met him in Shooa, on 3° north latitude. He had repented — hardships 
and discipline had effected a change — and, like the prodigal son, he 
returned. I forgave him, and took him with us to Khartoum, where 
we left him a sadder but a wiser man. He had many near relations 
during his long journey, all of whom had stolen some souvenir of their 
cousin, and left him almost naked. He also met Achmet, his "mother's 
brother's cousin's sister's mother's son," who turned up after some years 
at Gondokoro as a slave-hunter ; he had joined an expedition, and, like 
all other blackguards, he had chosen the White Nile regions for his career. 
He was the proprietor of twenty slaves, he had assisted in the murder 
of a number of unfortunate negroes, and he was a prosperous and re- 
spectable individuaL 

U 



290 HOR MAI GUBBA, [cHAr. xvii. 

and washed by the rains, similar in appearance to that of 
the Settite, but upon a small scale, as the entire width 
did not exceed a mile. 

Descending the rugged ground, we arrived at the margin 
of the river. At this season (February) the bed was 
perfectly dry sand, about ninety yards from bank to bank, 
and the high-water mark upon the perpendicular sides 
was a little above nine feet deep. The inclination was 
extremely rapid : thus the Eoyan during the rainy season 
must be a most frightful torrent, that supplies a large body 
of water to the Settite, but which runs dry almost imme- 
diately upon the cessation of the rains. 

We descended the bank in a spot that had been broken 
down by elephants, and continued our course up stream 
along the sandy bed, which formed an excellent road. 
The surface was imprinted with the footsteps of every 
variety of game, and numerous holes about two feet deep 
had been dug in the sand by the antelopes and baboons 
to procure water. Great numbers of the oterop, a small 
reddish-brown antelope without horns {Galotragus Mon- 
tanus) were drinking at these little watering-places, and 
did not appear to heed us. We disturbed many nellut 
and tetel upon the banks, and after having marched about 
four miles along the river's bed, we halted at a beautiful 
open forest of large trees at the junction of Hor Mai 
Gubba. This was a considerable torrent, which is tribu- 
tary to the Eoyan; at this spot it had cut through a 
white sandstone cliff, about eighty feet perpendicular : 
thus upon either side it was walled in. The word Gubba 
is Abyssinian for the nabbuk, therefore the torrent was 
the ISTabbuk Eiver: this flowed past the village of Mai 
Gubba, which is the head-quarters of Mek ISTimmur, from 
which we were not twenty-tive miles distant. We camped 
in a forest of the largest trees that we had as yet seen in 
Africa, and as we had observed the fresh tracks of horses 
on the sand, some of my Arabs went in search of the 
aggageers of Taher Sheriff's party, whom they had ex- 
pected to meet at this point. While they were gone, I 
took a few men to beat the low jungle within the forest 
for francolin partridge, numbers of which I had seen 



CHAP. XVII.] THE FRANCOLIN PARTRIDGE. 29 1 

running through the covert. I went up the dry bed of the 
river at the junction of the Hor Gubba, while they drove 
towards me, and I was compelled to fire as fast as I could 
load, as these beautiful birds flew across the ravine. I 
shot five brace almost immediately. There is no better 
game bird than the francolin : the flesh is white, and of a 
most delicate and rich flavour. My shots had attracted 
the aggageers, and shortly after my return to camp they 
arrived with my Arabs, as they had been stationed on the 
opposite side of the Eoyan in a forest within a quarter of 
a mile of us. Taher Sheriff' was delighted to see us free 
from the company of Abou Do. His party had killed 
several elephants, and had captured two young ones ; also, 
two young rhinoceroses, three giraffes, and several young 
antelopes ; these were to be sold to Johann Schmidt, who 
contracted to supply the Italian agent at Cassala. I 
agreed to have a long day's hunt with Taher Sheriff ; we 
were to start before sunrise, as he wished to ride to a spot 
about twenty-five miles distant, up the course of the 
Eoyan, that was a favourite resort for elephants. 

That evening we had a delicious dinner of francolin 
partridges. This species is rather larger than the French 
partridge : it is dark brown, mottled with black feathers, 
with a red mark around the eye, and double spurs. 

There was a small but deep pool of water in the bed of 
the river, beneath the high bank about two hundred paces 
from our camp ; this was a mere hole of about twenty 
feet square, and I expected that large game might come 
to drink during the night. Accordingly, I determined 
to watch for elephants, as their tracks were numerous 
throughout the bed of the river. My wife and two gun- 
bearers accompanied me, and we sat behind an immense 
tree that grew on the bank, exactly about the drinking 
place. I watched for hours, until I fell asleep, as did my 
men likewise : my wife alone was awake, and a sudden 
tug at my sleeve attracted my attention. The moon was 
bright, and she had heard a noise upon the branches of 
the tree above ns : there were no leaves, therefore I 
quickly observed some large animal upon a thick bough. 
My Tokrooris had awoke, and they declared it to be a 

u2 



292 THE BANKS OF THE ROYAN. [chap. xvii. 

baboon. I knew this to be impossible, as the baboon is 
never solitary, and I was just preparing to fire, when 
down jumped a large leopard within a few feet of us, 
and vanished before I had time to shoot. It must have 
winded our party, and quietly ascended the tree to 
reconnoitre, l^othing but hysenas came to the pool, 
therefore we returned to camp. 

According to my agreement, I went to the aggageers' 
camp at 5 a.m. with Hadji Ali and Hassan, both mounted 
on my two horses, Aggahr and Gazelle, while I rode Tetel. 
Taher Sheriff requested me not to shoot at anything, as 
the shots might alarm and scare away elephants ; there- 
fore I merely carried my little Fletcher, in case of meeting 
the Base, who hunted in this country. The aggageers 
mounted their horses ; each man carried an empty water- 
skin slung to his saddle, to be filled at the river should it 
be necessary to quit its banks. We started along the 
upward course of the Eoyan. 

For seven hours w-e rode, sometimes along the bed of 
the river between lofty overhanging rocks, or through 
borders of fine forest- trees ; at other times we cut off a 
bend of the stream, and rode for some miles through 
beautiful country diversified with hills, and abounding in 
enormous baobab-trees {Adansonia digitata). At length 
we entered the mountains at the foot of the great chain. 
Here the views were superb. The Eoyan was no longer a 
stream of ninety or a hundred yards in width, but it was 
reduced to a simple mountain torrent about forty yards 
across, blocked in many places by masses of rock, while 
at others it had formed broad pools, all of which were 
now perfectly dry, and exhibited a bed of glaring sand. 
Numerous mountain ravines joined the main channel, 
and as the inclination was extremely rapid, there could be 
little doubt that the violent storms of the rainy season, 
descending from the great chain of mountains, would, 
by concentrating in the Eoyan, suddenly give birth to 
an impetuous torrent, that would materially affect the 
volume of the Settite. The entire country bore witness 
to the effect of violent rains, as the surface was torn 
and water-worn. 



CHAP. XVII.] OUT WITH TEE AQGAGEERS. 293 

We had ridden nearly thirty miles, having seen large 
quantities of game, including antelopes, buffaloes, giraffes, 
and rhinoceroses, none of which we had hunted, as we were 
in search of elephants. This was the country where the 
aggageers had expected, without fail, to find their game. 

They now turned away from the Eoyan, and descended 
a sandy valley at the foot of the mountains, the bottom of 
which appeared to have been overflowed during the wet 
season. Here were large strips of forest, and numerous 
sandy watercourses, along the dry bed of which we quickly 
discovered the deep tracks of elephants. They had been 
digging fresh holes in the sand in search of water, in 
which welcome basins we found a good supply ; we dis- 
mounted, and rested the horses for half an hour, while the 
hunters followed up the tracks on the bed of the stream. 
Upon their return, they reported the elephants as having 
wandered off upon the rocky ground, that rendered further 
tracking impossible. We accordingly remounted, and, 
upon arrival at the spot where they had lost the tracks, 
we continued along the bed of the stream. We had ridden 
about a mile, and were beginning to despair, when 
suddenly we turned a sharp angle in the watercourse, 
and Taher Sheriff, who was leading, immediate^ reined 
in his horse, and backed him towards the party. I fol- 
lowed his example, and we were at once concealed by the 
sharp bend of the river. He now whispered, that a bull 
elephant was drinking from a hole it had scooped in the 
sand, not far round the corner. Without the slightest 
confusion, the hunters at once fell quietly into their 
respective places, Taher Sheriff leading, while I followed 
closely in the line, with my Tokrooris bringing up the 
rear; we were a party of seven horses. 

Upon turning the corner, we at once perceived the 
elephant, that was still drinking. It was a fine bull ; the 
enormous ears were thrown forward, as the head was 
lowered in the act of drawing up the water through the 
trunk ; these shaded the eyes, and, with the wind favour- 
able, we advanced noiselessly upon the sand to within 
twenty yards before we were perceived. The elepliant 
then threw up its head, and, with the ears flapping for- 



294 CHABGU OF A BULL ELEPHANT. [chap. xvii. 

ward, it raised its trunk for an instant, and then slowly, 
but easily, ascended the steep bank, and retreated. The 
aggageers now halted for about a minute to confer together, 
and then followed in their original order up the crumbled 
bank. We were now on most unfavourable ground ; the 
fire that had cleared the country we had hitherto traversed 
had been stopped by the bed of the torrent. We were 
thus plunged at once into withered grass above our heads, 
unless we stood in the stirrups ; the ground was strewed 
with fragments of rock, and altogether it was ill-adapted 
for riding. However, Taher Sheriff broke into a trot, 
followed by the entire party, as the elephant was not in 
sight. We ascended a hill, and when near the summit, 
we perceived the elephant about eighty yards ahead. It 
was looking behind during its retreat, by swinging its 
huge head from side to side, and upon seeing us approach, 
it turned suddenly round and halted. "Be ready, and 
take care of the rocks ! " said Taher Sheriff, as I rode 
forward by his side. Hardly had he uttered these words 
of caution, when the bull gave a vicious jerk with its 
head, and with a shrill scream it charged down upon us 
Avith the greatest fury. Away we all went, belter skelter, 
through the dry grass, which whistled in my ears, over 
the hidden rocks, at full gallop, with the elephant tearing 
after us for about a hundred and eighty yards at a tre- 
mendous pace. Tetel was a sure-footed horse, and, being 
unshod, he never slipped upon the stones. Thus, as we all 
scattered in different directions, the elephant became con- 
fused, and relinquished the chase ; it had been very near 
me at one time, and in such ground I was not sorry when 
it gave up the hunt. We now quickly united, and again 
followed the elephant, that had once more retreated. 
Advancing at a canter, we shortly came in view. Upon 
seeing the horses, the bull deliberately entered a strong- 
hold composed of rocky and uneven ground, in the clefts 
of which grew thinly a few leafless trees, the thickness of 
a man's leg. It then turned boldly towards us, and stood 
determinedly at bay. 

Now came the tug of war ! Taher Sheriff came close 
to me and said, '•' You had better shoot the elephaut, as we 



CHAP. XVII.] RODER WITH THE WITHERED ARM. 295 

shall have great difficulty in this rocky ground : " this I 
declined, as I wished to end the fight as it had been com- 
menced, with the sword ; and I proposed that he should 
endeavour to drive the animal to more favourable ground. 
"Never mind," replied Taher, " In shall ah (please God) he 
shall not beat us." He now advised me to keep as close 
to him as possible, and to look sharp for a charge. 

The elephant stood facing us like a statue ; it did not 
move a muscle beyond a quick and restless action of the 
eyes, that were watching all sides. Taher Sheriff and his 
youngest brother Ibrahim now separated, and each took 
opposite sides of the elephant, and then joined each other 
about twenty yards behind it ; I accompanied them, until 
Taher advised me to keep about the same distance upon 
the left flank. My Tokrooris kept apart from the scene, 
as they were not required. In front of the elephant were 
two aggageers, one of whom was the renowned Eoder 
Sheriff, with the withered arm. All being ready for action, 
Roder now rode slowly towards the head of the cunning 
old bull, who was quietly awaiting an opportunity to 
make certain of some one who might give him a good 
chance. 

Roder Sheriff rode a bay mare, that, having been 
thoroughly trained to these encounters, was perfect at 
her work. Slowly and coolly she advanced towards her 
wary antagonist, until within about eight or nine yards of 
the elephant's head ; the creature never moved, and the 
mise en scene was beautiful ; not a word was spoken, and 
we kept our places amidst utter stillness, which was at 
length broken by a snort from the mare, who gazed 
intently at the elephant, as though watching for the 
moment of attack. 

One more pace forward, and Roder sat cooUy upon his 
mare, with his eyes fixed upon those of the elephant. 
For an instant I saw the white of the eye nearest to me ; 
" Look out, Roder ! he's coming ! " I exclaimed. With a 
shrill scream, the elephant dashed upon him like an 
avalanche ! 

Round went the mare as though upon a pivot, and away, 
over rocks and stones, flying like a gazelle, with the 



296 THE SWORD WINS THE DAY. [chap. xvii. 

monkey-like form of little Eoder Sheriff leaning forward, 
and looking over his left shoulder as the elephant rushed 
after him. 

For a moment I thought he must be caught. Had the 
mare stumbled, all were lost ; but she gained in the race 
after a few quick bounding strides, and Eoder, still looking 
behind him, kept his distance so close to the elephant, 
that its outstretched trunk was within a few feet of the 
mare's tail. 

Taher Sheriff and his brother Ibrahim swept down like 
falcons in the rear. In full speed they dexterously avoided 
the trees, until they arrived upon open ground, when 
they dashed up close to the hind-quarters of the furious 
elephant, who, maddened with the excitement, heeded 
nothing but Eoder and his mare, that were almost within 
its grasp. When close to the tail of the elephant, Taher 
Sheriff's sword flashed from its sheath, as grasping his 
trusty blade he leapt nimbly to the ground, while Ibrahim 
caught the reins of his horse ; two or three bounds on 
foot, with the sword clutched in both hands, and he was 
close behind the elephant ; a bright glance shone like 
lightning, as the sun struck upon the descending steel ; 
this was followed by a dull crack, as the sword cut through 
skin and sinews, and settled deep in the bone, about 
twelve inches above the foot. At the next stride, the 
elephant halted dead short in the midst of its tremendous 
charge. Taher had jumped quickly on one side, and had 
vaulted into the saddle with his naked sword in hand. At 
the same moment, Eoder, who had led the chase, turned 
sharp round, and again faced the elephant as before ; 
stooping quickly from the saddle, he picked up from the 
ground a handful of dirt, which he threw into the face of 
the vicious-looking animal, that once more attempted to 
rush upon him. It was impossible ! the foot was dis- 
located, and turned up in front like an old shoe. In an 
instant Taher was once more on foot, and again the sharp 
sword slashed the remaining leg. The great bull elephant 
could not move ! the first cut with the sword had utterly 
disabled it ; the second was its death blow ; the arteries of 
the leg were divided, and the blood spouted in jets from 




J^^--**^;- 



CHAP. XVII.] THE lUMBLE BASE DINE CHEAPLY. 297 

the wounds. I wished to terminate its misery by a bullet 
behind the ear, but Taher Sheriff begged me not to fire, as 
the elephant would quickly bleed to death without pain, 
and an unnecessary shot might attract the Base, who 
would steal the flesh and ivory during our absence. We 
were obliged to return immediately to our far distant 
camp, and the hunters resolved to accompany their camels 
to the spot upon the following day. We turned our horses' 
heads, and rode direct towards home, which we did not 
reach until nearly midnight, having ridden upwards of 
sixty miles during the day. 

The hunting of Taher Sheriff and his brothers was 
superlatively beautiful ; with an immense amount of dash, 
there was a cool, sportsman-like manner in their mode of 
attack, that far excelled the impetuous and reckless onset 
of Abou Do ; it was difficult to decide which to admire 
the most, whether the coolness and courage of him who 
led the elephant, or the extraordinary skill and activity of 
the aggahr who dealt the fatal blow. 

On the following day, the hunters started to the dead 
elephant with camels and sacks, but they returned at 
night thoroughly disgusted ; the nimble Base had been 
before them, most probably attracted to the carcase by the 
cloud of vultures that had gathered in the air. Nothing 
remained but the bones and skull of the elephant, the 
flesh and the ivory had been stolen. The tracks of a 
great number of men were left upon the ground, and the 
aggageers were fortunate to return without an attack from 
overwhelming numbers. 

After hunting and exploring for some days in this 
neighbourhood, I determined to follow the bed of the 
Koyan to its junction with the Settite. We started at 
daybreak, and after a long march along the sandy bed, 
hemmed in by high banks, or by precipitous cliffs of sand- 
stone, w^e arrived at the junction ; this was a curious and 
frightful spot during the rainy season. The entire course 
of the Ptoyan was extremely rapid, but at this extremity 
it entered a rocky pass between two hills, and leapt in a 
succession of grand falls into a circular basin of about 
four hundred yards diameter. This peculiar basin was 



298 ROY AN JVNCTION WITH THE SETTITE. [chap. xvii. 

surrounded by high cliffS; covered with trees ; to the left 
was an island formed by a rock about sixty feet high ; at 
the foot was a deep and narrow gorge through which the 
Settite river made its exit from the circle. This large 
river entered the basin through a rocky gap, at right 
angles with the rush of water from the great falls of the 
Eoyan, and as both streams issued from gorges which 
accelerated their velocity to the highest degTee, their 
junction formed a tremendous whirlpool : thus, the basin 
which was now dry, with the exception of the single con- 
tracted stream of the Settite, was in the rainy season a 
most frightful scene of giddy waters. The sides of this 
basin were, for about fifty feet from the bottom, sheeted 
with white sand that had been left there by the centrifugal 
force of the revolving waters; the funnel-shaped reser- 
voir had its greatest depth beneath the mass of rock that 
formed a barrier before the mouth of the exit. From the 
appearance of the high-water mark upon the rock, it was 
easy to ascertain the approximate depth when the flood 
was at its maximum. We pitched our camp on the slope 
above the basin, and for several days I explored the bed of 
the river, which was exceedingly interesting at this dry 
season, when all the secrets of its depths were exposed. 
In many places, the rocks that choked its bed for a depth 
of thirty and forty feet in the narrow passes, had been 
worked into caverns by the constant attrition of the 
rolling pebbles. In one portion of the river, the bottom 
was almost smooth, as though it had been paved with flag- 
stones ; this was formed by a calcareous sediment from 
the water, which had hardened into stone ; in some places 
this natural pavement had been broken up into large slabs 
by the force of the current, where it had been undermined. 
This cement appeared to be the same that had formed the 
banks of conglomerate, which in some places walled in 
the river for a depth of ten or fifteen feet, with a concrete 
of rounded pebbles of all sizes from a nutmeg to a thirty- 
two pound shot. 

I fired the grass on the west bank of the Eoyan, and 
the blaze extended with such rapidity, that in a few 
hours many miles of country were entirely cleared. On 



CHAP. XVII.] A BULL RHINOCEROS. 299 

the following morning, the country looked as though 
covered with a pall of black velvet. 

To my astonishment there were the fresh tracks of a 
rhinoceros within a quarter of a mile of the camp : this 
animal must have concealed itself in the bed of the Koyan 
during the fire, and had wandered forth when it had 
passed. I followed up the tracks with Bacheet and two 
of my Tookrooris. In less than half a mile from the 
spot, I found it lying down behind a bush, and creeping 
under cover of an ant-hill, T shot it through the shoulder 
with a Eeilly No. 10 ; it immediately galloped off, but 
after a run of a couple of hundred yards it lay down 
on the edge of thick thorny jungle that bordered the 
margin of the Eoyan. I waited, in the expection that 
it would shortly die, but it suddenly rose, and walked 
slowly into the thorns. Determined to cut off its retreat, 
I pushed through the bushes, intending to reach the dry 
bed of the Eoyan and shoot the rhinoceros as it crossed 
from the narrow belt of the jungle, into which it had 
retreated; but I had hardly reached half way, when I 
heard a sound in the bush upon my right, and I saw 
the wounded beast coming straight for our position, but 
evidently unconscious of our presence, as we were to 
leeward. I immediately crouched down, as did my men 
likewise, lest the animal should observe us. Slowly, but 
surely, it came on exactly towards us, until it was at 
last so near as to be unpleasant: I looked behind me, 
and I saw by the expression of my men that they were 
thinking of retreat. I merely shook my fist, and frowned 
at them to give them confidence, and I waited patiently 
for my opportunity. It was becoming too ridiculous ; the 
rhinoceros was within five or six yards, and was slowly 
but steadily advancing direct upon us. At the next step 
that he made, I raised my rifie gently to my shoulder, 
and whistled sharply : in an instant it tossed its head up, 
and seeing nothing in front, as my clothes matched with 
the leafless bushes, it turned its head to the left, and I 
immediately pulled the trigger. It fell as though smitten 
by a sledge hammer, and it lay struggling on the ground. 
Bacheet sprang forward, and with an Arab sword he cut 



300 f^ISIT TO MEK NIMMUR. [chap. xvii. 

the hamstring of one leg. To the astonishment of us all, 
the rhinoceros jumped up, and on three legs it sprang 
quickly round and charged Bacheet, who skipped into 
the bushes, while I ran alongside the rhinoceros as it 
attempted to follow him, and, with Fletcher Eo. 24, I 
■fired through the shoulder, by placing the muzzle within 
a yard of the animal. It fell dead to this shot, which 
was another feather in the cap of the good little rifle. 
The skull of the rhinoceros is very curiously shaped ; I 
had fired for the temple, and had struck the exact point 
at which I had aimed, but, instead of hitting the brain, 
the bullet had smashed the joint of the jaw, in which it 
stuck fast. I never have been able to understand why 
that powerful rifle was thus baffled, unless there had been 
some error in the charge of powder. This rhinoceros had 
no ears, they had been bitten off close to the head by 
another of the same species, while fighting; this mutilation 
is by no means uncommon. 

From this point I traversed the country in all direc- 
tions ; upon one occasion I took a large supply of water, 
and penetrated into the very heart of the Base, haK way 
between the Settite and the river Gash or Mareb, near 
the base of the mountain chain ; but, although the re- 
doubtable natives were occasionally seen, they were as 
shy as wild animals, and we could not approach them. 

Having explored the entire country, and enjoyed myself 
thoroughly, I was now determined to pay our promised 
visit to Mek E'immur. Since our departure from the 
Egyptian territory, his country had been invaded by a 
large force, according to orders sent from the Governor- 
General of the Soudan. Mek Mmmur as usual retreated 
to the mountains, but Mai Gubba and a number of his 
villages were utterly destroyed by the Egyptians. He 
would, under these circumstances, be doubly suspicious 
of strangers. 

My camel-men had constantly brought me the news 
on their return from Geera with corn * and they con- 
sidered that it was unsafe to visit Mek Nimmur after 

* Among other news I was glad to hear that ray patient Jali could walk 
without difficulty. 



CHAP. XVII.] OUR ARABS DECLINE TO PROCEED. 301 

his defeat, as he might believe me to be a spy from the 
Egyptians; he was a great friend of Tlieodorus, king of 
Abyssinia, and as at that time he was on good terms 
with the English, I saw no reason to avoid his country. 

We arrived at Ombrega, but, instead of camping among 
the thick jungle as formerly, we bivouacked under four 
splendid tamarind trees that formed a clump among the 
rocks on the left bank of the river, and which shaded a 
portion of its sandy bed ; this was a delightful resting- 
place. We were now only one day from Geera, and we 
sent a messenger to the sheik of the Hamrans, who 
shortly returned with a young girl of about seventeen 
as a corn-grinder in the place of Barrake ; she was hired 
from her owner at a dollar per month. 

My camel-men had determined not to proceed to Mek 
Nimmur's country, as they were afraid that their camels 
might be stolen by his people ; they therefore came to 
me one evening, and coolly declared that they should 
return to Geera, as it w^ould be folly to tempt Mek 
Nimmur. It was in vain that I protested, and reminded 
them that I had engaged them to accompany me through- 
out the exploration. They were afraid of losing their 
camels, and nothing would satisfy them ; they declared 
that they required no wages, as the meat and hide, &c. 
they had received were sufficient for their services, but 
through Mek Nimmur's country they were determined 
not to go. Taher Noor w^as the only man who was 
willing, but he had no camel. We had constructed a 
fence of thorns around our camp, in which the camels 
were now reposing, and, as the argument had become hot, 
the Arabs expressed their determination of starting home- 
wards that very instant, and we were to be left alone, 
unless they could persuade other men of their tribe to 
join us with their animals. Accordingly, they at once 
proceeded to saddle their camels for an immediate start. 
Without saying another word, I quietly took my little 
Fletcher riiie, and cocked both barrels as I sat within 
ten yards of the exit from the camp. The men were 
just ready to depart, and several had mounted their 
camels. " Good bye," I said ; " give my salaams to the 



302 OBLIGED TO THREATEN THE CAMELS, [chap, xvii. 

sheik when you arrive at Geera ; but the first camel that 
passes the zareeba (camp) I shall shoot through the head." 
They had heard the sharp click of the locks, and they 
remembered the firing of the grass on a former occasion 
when I had nearly burnt the camp ; — not a camel moved. 
My Tokrooris and Taher ISToor now came forward as 
mediators, and begged me not to shoot the camels. As 
I had the rifle pointed, I replied to this demand con- 
ditionally, that the Arabs should dismount and unsaddle 
immediately : this led to a parley, and I agreed to become 
responsible for the value of the camels should they be 
stolen in Mek Nimmur's country. The affair was settled. 

On March 16th, the day following this argument, as 
we were sitting in the evening beneath our trees in the 
river's bed, I suddenly heard the rattle of loose stones, 
and immediately after, a man on a white hygeen appeared 
from the jungle on our side of the river, followed quickly 
by a string of Arabs, all well mounted, who silently fol- 
lowed in single file towards the ford. They had not 
noticed us, as we were close to the high rocky bank 
upon their left, in the deep shade of the tamarind trees. 
I counted twenty-three; their shields and swords were 
slung upon their hygeens, and, as their clothes were 
beautifully clean, they had evidently started that morning 
from their homes. 

The leader had reached the ford without observing us, 
as in this wild spot he had expected no one, and the 
whole party were astonished and startled when I suddenly 
addressed them with a loud " Salaam aleikum " (peace be 
with you). At first they did not reply, but as I advanced 
alone, their leader also advanced from his party, and we 
met half way. These were a troop of Mek Mmmur^s 
people on a foray. I quickly explained who I was, and 
I invited him to come and drink coffee beneath the shade 
in our camp. Taher Noor now joined us, and confidence 
having been established, the leader ordered his party to 
cross the ford and to unsaddle on the opposite side of 
the river, while he accompanied me to our camp. At 
first he was rather suspicious, but a present of a new 
tarboosh (cap), and a few articles of trifling value, quickly 



CHAP. XVII.] NARROW ESCAPE- TEE RIFLE BURSTS. 303 

reassured him, and he promised to be our guide to Mek 
Nimmur in about a couple of days, upon his return from 
a marauding expedition on the frontier; his party had 
appointed to unite with a stronger force, and to make 
a razzia upon the cattle of the Dabaina Arabs. 

During the night, the marauding party and their leader 
departed. 

There was no game at Ombrega, therefore T employed 
the interval of two days in cleaning all the rifles, and in 
preparing for a fresh expedition, as that of the Settite 
and Eoyan had been completed. The short Tatham ISTo. 
10 rifle carried a heavy cylinder, instead of the original 
spherical ball. I had only fired two shots with this rifle, 
and the recoil had been so tremendous, owing to the heavy 
weight of the projectile, that I had mistrusted the weapon; 
therefore, when the moment arrived to fire off all the 
guns preparatory to cleaning, my good angel whispered a 
providential warning, and 1 agreed to fire this particular 
rifle by a long fishing-line attached to the trigger, while 
the gun should be fastened to a tree. It blew all to 
pieces 1 The locks were blown entirely away, and the 
stock was shattered into fragments: nothing remained 
but the thick end near the shoulder-plate. I had received 
a mysterious presentiment of this ; had I fired that rifle 
in the usual manner, I must have been killed on the 
spot. The charge was five drachms, which was small in 
proportion to the weight of the cylindrical projectile. 
This may be a warning to such sportsmen who adopt 
new-fashioned projectiles to old-fashioned rifles, that were 
proved with the spherical bullet, which in weight and 
friction bears no proportion to the heavy cylinder ; never- 
theless, this rifle should not have burst, and the metal 
showed great inferiority, by blowing into fragments instead 
of splitting. 

The leader of Mek Nimmur's party returned, as he had 
promised, to be our guide. I extract from my journal, 
verbatim, my notes upon that date. 

''March /9,1862. — St3iTted at 1.30 p.m., and halted at 
5 P.M. There is no water for about thirty miles ; thus 
we had watered aU the animals at the usual hour (noon), 



304 WE MARCH FROM THE SETTITE. [chap. xvii. 

and they will accordingly endure until to-morrow evening. 
Upon ascending the slope of the Settite valley, the country 
is an immense plain of fertile soil, about two hundred 
feet above the river. While on the march, I espied a 
camel wandering without an owner ; this was immediately 
secured as a lawful prize by our guide. This fellow's 
name is Mahomet ; he is, doubtlessly, an out-and-out 
scoundrel ; he is about five feet ten inches in height, and 
as thin as a live man can be ; he is so crafty-looking, 
and so wiry and eel-like, that if I were to lock him up 
I should secure the key-hole, as he looks capable of 
squeezing through anything. We slept on the plain. 

" March W. — Started at 5 A.M., and in three hours we 
reached the chain of lofty wooded hills that bound the 
plain. In a march of four hours from this point, we 
arrived at a hor, or ravine, when we halted beneath a large 
tamarind tree, and pitched the tent according to the in- 
structions of our guide. The plain from the Settite to 
the base of the hilly range that we had crossed, is about 
twenty-tw^o miles w^ide by forty in length, and, like all the 
table-land in this country, it is well adapted for cotton 
cultivation. Were the route secure through the Base 
country, loaded camels might reach Cassala in six days, 
and from thence to Souakim. All this country is unin- 
habited. On arrival at the base of the first hill, a grove of 
tamarinds shades a spriag, at which we watered our horses, 
but the water is impregnated with natron, which is common 
throughout this country, and appears in many places as 
an efflorescence on the surface of the ground. i>om the 
spring at the eastern base of the hills, we ascended a 
rugged pass, winding for some miles among ravines, and 
crossing elevated shoulders of the range. Upon the summit 
we passed a rich mass of both rose-coloured and white 
limestone, similar to that we had seen at Geera ; this was 
surrounded by basalt, and the presence of limestone en- 
tirely mystifies my ideas of geology. Immense quantities 
of very beautiful spar lay upon the surface in all direc- 
tions ; some of this was perfectly white, and veined like an 
agate — I believe it was white cornelian ; other fragments, 
of sizes equalling sixty or seventy pounds weight, were 



CHAP. XVII.] MINERAL WEALTH OF ABYSSINIA. 305 

beautifully green, suggesting the presence of copper. Large 
masses of exquisite bloodstone, the size of a man's head, 
were exceedingly numerous. Having crossed the hills, we 
descended to a rich and park-like valley, covered with 
grass, and ornamented with fine timber. Much dhurra was 
cultivated, and several villages were passed, that had been 
plundered by the Egyptians during the recent attack. This 
country must be exceedingly unhealthy during the rainy 
season, as the soil is extremely rich, and the valleys, sur- 
rounded by hills, would become swamps. From the Settite 
river, at Ombrega, to our halting-place beneath the tama- 
rind-tree, at this spot, is about thirty-five miles south, 
10° east." 

Our camp was in a favourable locality, well shaded by 
large trees, on the margin of a small stream; this was 
nearly dry at this season, and the water was extremely 
bad, having a strong taste of copper. I had remarked 
throughout the neighbourhood unmistakeable evidences of 
the presence of this metal — the surface of the rocks was in 
many places bright green, like malachite, and, upon an 
exploration of the bed of the stream, I found veins of a 
green substance in the perpendicular cliffs that had been 
cut through by the torrent. These green veins passed 
through a bed of reddish, hard rock, glistening with minute 
crystals, which I believe to have been copper. There is no 
doubt that much might be done were the mineral wealth 
of this country tlioroughly investigated. 

The day following our arrival was passed in receiving 
visits from a number of Abyssinians, and the head men of 
Mek Nimmur. There was a mixture of people, as many of 
the Jaleen Arabs who had committed some crime in the 
Egyptian territory, had fied across the country and joined 
tlie exiled chief of their tribe. Altogether, the society in 
this district was not creme de la creme, as Mek Nimnnir's 
territory was an asylum for all the blackguards of the 
adjoining countries, who were attracted by the excitement 
and lawlessness of continual border warfare. The troop 
that we had seen at Ombrega returned with a hundred and 
two head of camels, that they had stolen from the west 
bank of the Atbara. Mounted upon hygeens, Mek Nim- 

X 



306 FItESENT TO MEK NIMMUR. [chap. xvii. 

mur's irregulars thought nothing of marching sixty miles 
in ODe day; thus their attack and retreat were equally 
sudden and unexpected. 

I had a quantity of rhinoceros hide in pieces of the size 
required for shields ; these were much prized in this fight- 
ing couQtry, and I presented them to a number of head 
men who had honoured us with a visit. I begged them to 
guide two of my people to the presence of Mek Nimmur, 
with a preliminary message. This they promised to per- 
form. Accordingly, I sent Taher ]N"oor and Bacheet on 
horseback, with a most polite message, accompanied with 
my card in an envelope, and a small parcel, carefully 
wrapped in four or five different papers ; this contained a 
very beautiful Persian lance-head, of polished steel inlaid 
with gold, that I had formerly purchased at Constantinople. 

During their absence, we were inundated with visitors, 
the Abyssinians, in their tight pantaloons, contrasting 
strongly with the loosely-clad Arabs. In about an hour, 
my messengers returned, accompanied by two men on 
horseback, with a hospitable message from Mek Nimmur, 
and an invitation to pay him a visit at his own residence. 
I had some trifling present ready for everybody of note, 
and, as Taher JSToor and my people had already explained 
all they knew concerning us, Mek Nimmur's suspicions 
had entirely vanished. 

As we were conversing with Mek Mmmur's messengers 
through the medium of Taher Noor, who knew their 
language, our attention was attracted by the arrival of 
a tremendous swell who at a distance I thought must be 
Mek Nimmur himself. A snow-white mule carried an 
equally snow-white person, whose tight white pantaloons 
looked as though he had forgotten his trousers, and had 
mounted in his drawers. He carried a large umbrella to 
shade his complexion ; a pair of handsome silver-mounted 
pistols were arranged upon his saddle, and a silver-hilted 
curved sword, of the peculiar Abyssinian form, hung by 
his side. This grand personage was followed by an at- 
tendant, also mounted upon a mule, while several men on 
foot accompanied them, one of whom carried his lance and 
shield. Upon a near approach, he immediately dismounted, 



CHAP. XVII.] THE ABYSSINIAN MINSTREL. 307 

and advanced towards ns, bowing in a most foppish manner, 
while his attendant followed him on foot with an enormous 
violin, which he immediately handed to him. This fiddle 
was very peculiar in shape, being a square, with an ex- 
ceedingly long neck extending from one corner ; upon 
this was stretched a solitary string, and the bow was very 
short and much bent. This was an Abyssinian Paganini. 
He was a professional minstrel of the highest grade, 
who had been sent by Mek Nimmur to welcome us on 
our arrival. 

These musicians are very similar to the minstrels of 
ancient times ; they attend at public rejoicings, and at 
births, deaths, and marriages of great personages, upon 
which occasions they extemporize their songs according to 
circumstances. My hunting in the Base country formed 
his theme, and for at least an hour he sang of my deeds, in 
an extremely loud and disagreeable voice, while he accom- 
panied himself upon his fiddle, w^hich he held downwards 
like a violoncello : during the whole of his song he con- 
tinued in movement, marching with a sliding step to the 
front, and gliding to the right and left in a manner that, if 
intended to be graceful, was extremely comic. The sub- 
stance of this minstrelsy was explained to me by Taher 
Noor, who listened eagerly to the words, which he trans- 
lated with evident satisfaction. Of course, like all min- 
strels, he was an absurd flatterer, and, having gathered a 
few facts for his theme, he wandered slightly from the 
truth in his poetical description of my deeds. 

He sang of me as though I had been Richard Coeur de 
Lion, and recounted, before an admiring throng of listeners, 
how " 1 had wandered wath a young wife from my own 
distant country to fight the terrible Base ; how I had slain 
them in single combat ; and how elephants and lions were 
struck down like lambs and kids by my hands ; that during 
my absence in the hunt, my wife had been carried olf by 
the Base ; that I had, on my return to my pillaged camp, 
galloped off in chase, and, overtaking the enemy, hundreds 
had fallen by my rifle and sword, and I had liberated and 
recovered the lady, who now had arrived safe with her lord 
in the country of the great ]\Iek Nimmur," &c. &c. &c. 

x2 



308 / PART WITE MY DEAR MARIA Till: RES A. [chap. xvii. 

This was all very pretty, no doubt, and as true as most 
poetical and musical descriptions, but I felt certain that 
there must be something to pay for this flattering enter- 
tainment ; if you are considered to be a great man, d. present 
is invariably expected in proportion to your importance. 
I suggested to Taher Noor that I must give him a couple of 
dollars. " What !" said Taher Noor, " a couple of dollars ? 
Impossible ! a musician of his standing is accustomed to 
receive thirty and forty dolla.rs from great people for so 
beautiful and honourable a song." 

This was somewhat startling ; I began to reflect upon 
the price of a box at Her Majesty's Theatre in London ; 
but there I was not the hero of the opera ; this minstrel 
combined the whole affair in a most simple manner ; he 
was Verdi, Costa, and orchestra all in one; he was a 
thorough Macaulay as historian, therefore I had to pay 
the composer as well as the fiddler. I compromised the 
matter, and gave him a few dollars, as I understood that 
he was Mek Mmmur's private minstrel, but I never parted 
with my dear Maria Theresa * with so much regret as upon 
that occasion, and I begged him not to incommode himself 
by paying us another visit, or, should he be obliged to do 
so, I trusted he would not think it necessary to bring 
his violin. 

The minstrel retired in the same order that he had 
arrived, and I watched his retreating figure with un- 
pleasant reflections, that were suggested by doubts as to 
whether I had paid him too little or too much; Taher 
JSToor thought that he was underpaid ; my own opinion 
was, that I had brought a curse upon myself equal to a 
succession of London organ-grinders, as I fully expected 
that other minstrels, upon hearing of the Austrian dollars, 
would pay us a visit, and sing of my great deeds. 

In the afternoon, we were sitting beneath the shade of 
our tamarind tree when we thought we could perceive our 
musical friend returning. As he drew near, we were con- 
vinced that it was the identical minstrel, who had most 
probably been sent with a message from Mek Mmmm- : 
there he was, in snow-white raiment, on the snow-white 

* The Austrian dollar, that is the only large current coin in that country. 



CHAP. XVII.] THE GUOST OF THE DEPARTED FIDDLER. 309 

mule, witli the mounted attendant and the violin as 
before. He dismounted upon arrival opposite the camp, 
and approached with his usual foppish bow ; but we 
looked on in astonishment : it was not our Paganini, it 
was another minstrel! who was determined to sing an ode 
in our praise. I felt that this was an indirect appeal to 
Maria Theresa, and I at once declared against music. I 
begged him not to sing ; " my wife had a headache — I 
disliked the fiddle — could he play anything else instead ? " 
and I expressed a variety of polite excuses, but to no 
purpose ; he insisted upon singing ; if I " disliked the 
fiddle, he would sing without an accompaniment, but he 
could not think of insulting so great a man as myself by 
returning without an ode to commemorate our arrival." 

I M'as determined that he should not sing ; he was 
determined that he ivould, therefore I desired him to leave 
my camp ; this he agreed to do, provided I would allow 
him to cross the stream, and sing to my Tokrooris, 
in my praise, beneath a neighbouring tree about fifty 
yards distant. He remounted his mule with his violin, 
to ford the muddy stream, and he descended the steep 
bank, followed by his attendant on foot, who drove the 
unwilling mule. Upon arrival at the brink of the 
dirty brook, that was about three feet deep, the mule 
positively refused to enter the water, and stood firm with 
its fore feet sunk deep in the mud. The attendant 
attempted to push it on behind, at the same time he 
gave it a sharp blow with his sheathed sword ; this 
changed the scene to the "opera comique." In one 
instant the mule gave so vigorous and unexpected a kick 
into the bowels of the attendant, that, he fell upon his 
back, heels uppermost, while at the same moment the 
minstrel, in his snow-white garments, was precipitated 
head foremost into the muddy brook, and for the moment 
disappearing, the violin alone could be seen floating on the 
surface. A second later, a wretched-looking object, covered 
with slime and filth, emerged from the slough ; this was 
Paganini the second ! who, after securing his fiddle, that 
had stranded on a mud-bank, scrambled up the steep 
slope, amidst the roars of laughter of my people and of 



310 INTRODUCTION TO MUK NIMMUR. [chap. xvii. 

ourselves ; while the perverse mule, having turned har- 
mony into discord, kicked up its heels and galloped off, 
braying an ode in praise of liberty, as the "Lay of the 
last Minstrel." The discomfited fiddler was wiped down 
by my Tokrooris, who occasionally burst into renewed fits 
of laughter during the operation; the mule was caught, 
and the minstrel remounted, and returned home completely 
out of tune. 

On the following morning, at sunrise, I mounted my 
horse, and, accompanied by Taher Noor and Bacheet, I 
rode to pay my respects to Mek Nimmur. Our route lay 
parallel to the stream, and, after a ride of about two miles 
through a fine, park-like country, bounded by the Abys- 
sinian Alps about fifteen miles distant, I observed a crowd 
of people round a large tamarind tree, near which were 
standing a number of horses, mules, and dromedaries. 
This was the spot upon which I was to meet Mek Mmmur. 
Upon my approach the crowd opened, and, having dis- 
mounted, I was introduced by Taher JSToor to the great 
chief He was a man of about fifty, and exceedingly dirty 
in appearance. He sat upon an angarep, surrounded by 
his people ; lying on either side upon his seat were two 
brace of pistols, and within a few yards stood his horse 
ready saddled. He was prepared for fight or flight, as 
were also his rufiianly-looking followers, who were com- 
posed of Abyssinians and Jaleens. 

I commenced the conversation by referring to the hos- 
pitality shown by his father to my couutryman, Mr. 
Mansfield Parkyns, and I assured him that such kind 
attentions were never forgotten by an Englishman, there- 
fore I had determined to visit him, although the Egyptian 
authorities had cautioned me not to trust myself within 
his territory. I explained that I was bound towards an 
unknown point, in search of the sources of the AVhite 
N'ile, which might occupy some years, but that I wished 
to perfect the exploration by the examination of all the 
Abyssinian Nile affluents : and I concluded by asking for 
his assistance in my journey to the Bahr Angrab and the 
Salaam. He replied very politely, and gave me much 
local information ; he said that the Egyptians gave him no 



CHAP. XVII.] THE RWEPTION. 311 

peace, that he was obliged to fight in self-defence ; but 
that, if I could make overtures on his part to the Egyptian 
authorities, he would engage never to cross the Atbara, 
provided they observed a similar condition. I promised 
to represent his offer to the Governor-General on my 
arrival at Khartoum. He agreed to give me a guide to 
the rivers Angrab and Salaam, that were not far distant, 
and he at once pointed out to me the two dark gorges, 
about twelve and sixteen miles distant, in the chain of 
precipitous mountains from which they flowed. He 
described the country upon the other side of the moun- 
tains to be the elevated plateau of Abyssinia, and he 
advised me to visit the king before my departure from his 
territory; this I could not conveniently^ accomplish, as 
my route lay in an opposite direction. He begged me for 
a telescope, so that he should be able to see the approach 
of the Turks (Egyptians) from a great distance, as he 
explained that he had spies upon all the mountain tops, 
so that no stranger could enter his country without his 
knowledge. He confessed that my movements while in 
the Base country had been watched by his spies, until he 
had felt assured that I had no sinister motive. I lauohed 

o 

at the idea ; he replied, that we were most fortunate to 
have escaped an attack from the natives, as they were far 
worse than wild beasts, and he immediately pointed out 
several Bas^ slaves who were present in the crowd, who 
had been captured when children ; they appeared to be 
the same as the woolly-headed natives of the south bank 
of the Blue Nile, and not at all peculiar in appearance. 
He cautioned me against bathing in the stream, or drinking 
the water in the neighbourhood of our camp, as it was 
extremely poisonous, and would produce an irritation of 
the skin. I told him that I had discovered copper, and 
that I attributed the poisonous quality of the water to the 
presence of that mineral. This announcement was received 
with a general expression of approbation. " That is very 
curious," he said, " that we who live in this country are 
ignorant, and that you, a stranger, should at once explain 
the cause of the poison." He at once agreed to the 
suggestion, as he said, that during the rains, when the tor- 



312 UNFORTUNATE CONTRETEMPS. [chap. xvii. 

rents were full, the water was not unwholesome, but in the 
dry weather, when the supply was scanty, and the stream 
feeble, the strength of the poison was necessarily increased. 
He assured me that, although the pasturage was excellent, 
all cattle that drank in that hor or stream became as thin 
as skeletons. 

Mek Nimmur had been ignorant of the existence of 
copper, but he informed me that gold dust was common 
in the sand of most of the ravines, and that, if I would 
remain in his country, I might discover considerable quan- 
tities. I informed him that I had already discovered the 
existence of both gold and lead. He requested me to give 
him every information respecting the lead, as he should 
prefer it to gold, as he could manufacture bullets to shoot 
the Turks (as the Egyptians are called by the neighbouring 
tribes). After a long and satisfactory conversation, I made 
my salaam, and retired. Immediately on my arrival at 
the camp, I despatched Wat Gamma on horseback with 
Taher Noor, in charge of a pair of beautiful double- 
barrelled pistols, with the name of Tatham as the manu- 
facturer; these were loaded, and I sent a polite message, 
begging Mek Mmmur's acceptance of the present ; they 
were accompanied by a supply of ammunition. 

In the evening "Wat Gamma returned with the pistols ; 
— they had hurst I Mek Mmmur had requested him to 
fire at a mark, and one barrel of each pistol had given 
way; thus, the double rifle and the pistols of the same 
name '' Tatham " had all failed ; forhmately no one was 
injured. I was afraid that this would lead to some com- 
plication, and I was much annoyed ; I had never used 
these pistols, but I had considered that they were first 
rate ; thus I had given them to Mek Nimmur as a valuable 
present, and they had proved their utter worthlessness. I 
immediately mounted my horse, and with my revolver in 
my belt, and my beautiful single Beattie rifle in my hand, 
I galloped off to Mek Mmmur ; he was seated in the same 
spot, watching the harvest of dhurra, enormous piles of 
wdiich were being thrashed by a number of Abyssinians. 
The instant that I arrived, I went straight to him, and ex- 
plained my regret and disappointment at the failure of the 



CHAP. XVII.] PhARAOR 'S LEAN KINK 313 

pistols, and I begged him to take his choice between my 
rifle and revolver. He behaved remarkably well ; he had 
begged my messenger to leave the broken pistols with 
him, and not to mention the circumstance to me, as he felt 
sure that I should feel even more annoyed than himself ; 
he now declined my offer, as he said I should require the 
weapons during my proposed journey up the White Nile, 
and he could not deprive me of their use. He was afraid 
of the revolver, as it was too complicated, but I tore from 
my note-book a small piece of paper, which I requested 
one of his people to stick upon a rock about ninety yards 
distant. I took a steady shot with the single rifle, and 
was fortunate enough to hit the paper exactly. This 
elicited general applause, and Mek Nimmur called one of 
his people, an Abyssinian, who he declared to be a cele- 
brated shot, and he requested that he might be allowed to 
fire the rifle. I placed a similar mark upon the rock, and 
the Abyssinian fired from a rest, and struck the stone, in 
a good line, about six inches below the paper. The crowd 
were in raptures with the rifle, which I at once insisted upon 
Mek Nimmur accepting. I then made my salaam, and 
mounted my horse amidst general expressions of approval. 
On the following morning, Mek Mmmur sent us two 
camel-loads of corn ; a large gourd of honey, weighing 
about fifty pounds ; and four cows that must have been a 
detachment of Pharaoh's lean kine, with a polite message 
that I was to select the fattest. These cattle were speci- 
mens of the poisonous qualities of the water ; but, although 
disappointed in the substance of the present, my people 
were delighted with the acquisition, and they immediately 
selected a cow ; but just as they were licking their lips at 
the prospect of fresh meat, which they had not tasted for 
some days, the cow broke away and made off across 
country. In despair at the loss, my men followed in hot 
pursuit, and two of the Tokrooris overtook her, and held 
on to her tail like bull-do^fs, althouo^h draofGred for some 
distance, at full gallop through thorns and ruts, until the 
other men arrived and overpowered the thin, but wiry 
animal. When slaughtered, there was a great squabble 
between my men and the Abyssinians, who endeavoured 
to steal the meat. 



CHAPTEE XYIII. 

A CAMEL FALLS, AND DIES. 

I EXTRACT a few notes from my journal ; — 

''March 25, 1862.—M.dCL Gubba is about twelve miles 
E.KE. of our camp. Mek Mmmur's stronghold is upon 
a lofty table-mountain, due south of this spot, from which 
great elevation (about 5,000 feet) the granite mountain of 
Cassala is said to be plainly visible. 

" March '27. — AVe started for the Bahr Salaam, and said 
good-bye to Mek Nimmur, as we passed his position on 
our march; he had given us a guide; an awful-looking 
scoundrel. 

" We had hardly marched two miles, when one of the 
baggage-camels suddenly fell down to die ; the Arabs im- 
mediately cut its throat with a sword, and Bacheet, having 
detached one ear as a witness of its death, galloped back 
to borrow a fresh camel of Mek Nimmur, which he very 
kindly sent without delay. We were obliged to bivouac 
on the spot for the night, as the Arabs required the flesh 
of their camel, which was cut into thin strips. As they 
were employed in skinning it, they ate large quantities 
raw and quivering. The stream, or hor, that flows through 
this country, parallel with our route, is the Ma Serdi ; all 
this district is rich in copper. 

''March 28. — Started at 5 a.m. course S.W. We crossed 
two hors, flowing from N.N.W. and joining the Ma Serdi ; 
also a beautiful running stream of deep and clear water, 
twelve miles from our bivouac of last evening : this stream 
is never dry ; it springs from a range of hills about ten 
miles distant. The whole of this country is well watered 
by mountain streams, the trees are no longer the thorny 
mimosas, but as the land is not only fertile, but sufficiently 
moist, it gives birth to a different kind of vegetation, and 
the trees are mostly free from thorns, although at this 



CHAP. XVIII.] ARRIVAL AT THE BAHR SALAAM. 315 

season devoid of foliage. The country is ornamented by 
extensive cultivation, and numerous villages. We halted 
at 5 P.M. having marched twenty-one miles. The fertile 
soil of this country is thoroughly melted by rain during 
the wet season, and in the intense heat of the drought it 
becomes a mass of gaping crevices many feet deep, that 
render hunting on horseback most dangerous. For- 
tunately, as we halted, I observed a herd of tetel, and 
three ostriches : the latter made off iuimediately, but I 
succeeded in stalking the tetel, and shot two, right and 
left, one of which escaped, but the other became the prize 
of my Tokrooris. 

''March 29. — Started at 5.30 a.m. and reached the river 
Salaam at 8 A.M. ; the total distance from our camp in 
Mek JSTimmur's country is thirty-five miles S.W. The 
Bahr Salaam is precisely similar in character to the 
Settite, but smaller ; it has scooped through the rich lands 
a deep valley, like the latter river, and has transported the 
the fertile loam to the Atbara, to increase the rich store of 
mud which that river delivers to the Mle. The Salaam 
is about two hundred yards wide ; it flows through 
perpendicular cliffs that form walls of rock, in many 
places from eighty to a hundred and fifty feet above its 
bed ; the water is as clear as crystal, and of excellent 
quality; even now, a strong though contracted stream is 
running over the rounded pebbles that form its bed, 
similar to that of the Settite. We descended a difficult 
path, and continued along the dry portion of the river's 
bed up the stream. While we were searching for a spot 
to encamp, I saw a fine bull m^hed^het {A. Redunca 
Ellipsiprymna) by the water side ; I stalked him carefully 
from behind a bed of high rushes, and shot him across 
the river with the Fletcher rifle ; he went on, although 
crippled, but the left-hand barrel settled him by a bullet 
through the neck. We camped on the bank of the 
river. 

''March 30. — I went out to explore the country, and, 
steering due east, I arrived at the river Angrab or Angarep, 
three miles from the Salaam ; from a high rock I could 
trace its course from the mountain gorge to this spot, the 



316 THE JUNCTION OF THE ANGRAB. [chap, xviii. 

stream flowing IST.W. This noble river or mountain 
torrent is about a hundred a fifty yards wide, although 
the breadth varies according to the character of the 
country through which it passes ; in most places it rushes 
through frightful precipices ; sometimes it is waUed within 
a channel of only forty or fifty yards, and in such places 
the cliffs, although at least a hundred feet perpendicular 
height, bear the marks of floods that have actually over- 
topped the rocks, and have torn away the earth, and left 
masses of bamboos and withered reeds clincrincj to the 
branches of trees, which, growing on still higher rocks, 
have dipped in the swollen torrent. I followed the circuit- 
ous course of the river for some miles, until, after a most 
fatiguing exploration among precipices and deep ravines, 
I arrived at the junction of the Salaam river. On the 
way, I came upon a fine bull nellut {A. Strepsiceros) 
beneath a shady nabbuk by the river's side ; I could only 
obtain an oblique shot, as his hind quarters were towards 
me ; the bullet passed through the ribs, and reached the 
shoulder upon the opposite side. This nellut had the 
finest horns that I had yet obtained ; they measured four 
feet in the curve, three feet one inch and a half in a 
straight line, with a spread of two feet seven inches from 
point to point. I found tracks of hippopotami upon the 
high grassy hills ; these animals climb up the most 
difficult places during the night, when they ascend from 
the river to seek for pasturage. I was not far from the tent 
when I arrived at the junction of the Angrab with the 
Bahr Salaam, but the rivers were both sunk in stupendous 
precipices, so that it was impossible to descend. The 
mouth of the river Angrab was an extraordinary sight ; it 
was not wider than about fifteen yards, although the river 
averaged a width of at least a hundred and fifty yards. 
The exit of the water was between two lofty walls of 
basalt rock, which overhung the stream, which in the 
rainy season not only forced its way for about a hundred 
yards through this narrow cleft, but it had left proof of 
inundations that had leapt over the summit of the obstruc- 
tion, when the rush of water had been too great for the 
area of tlie contracted passage. Altogether, the two rivers 



CHAP. XVIII.] DESTRUCTIVE EFFECT OF WATER. 317 

Salaam and Angrab are interesting examples of the 
destructive effect of water, that has during the course 
of ages cut through, and hollowed out in the solid rock, 
a succession of the most horrible precipices and caverns, 
in which the maddened torrents, rushing from the lofty- 
chain of mouDtains, boil along imtil they meet the Atbara, 
and assist to flood the Nile. No one could explore these 
tremendous torrents, the Settite, Eoyan, Angrab, Salaam, 
and Atbara, without at once comprehending their effect 
upon the waters of the Nile. The magnificent chain of 
mountains from which they flow, is not a simple line of 
abrupt sides, but the precipitous slopes are the walls of a 
vast plateau, that receives a prodigious rainfall in June, 
July, August, until the middle of September, the entire 
drainage of whicli is carried away by the above-named 
channels to inundate Lower Egypt." 

Not being able to cross the river at the point of junction 
with the Salaam, I continued along the margin of the 
precipice that overhangs the latter river, until I should 
find a place by which we could descend with the camel, 
as this animal had made a great circuit to avoid the 
difiiculties of the Angrab. We were at length united, 
and were continuing our route parallel with the river, 
over undulations of withered grass about three feet high, 
interspersed with trees, when I perceived above the surface 
the long horns of a mehedehet (R. Elliimprymna). I knew 
that he must be lying down, and, as he was about a 
hundred and fifty yards distant, I stalked him carefully 
from tree to tree ; presently I observed three other pairs 
of horns at various distances ; two were extremely large ; 
but, unfortunately, an animal with smaller horns was 
lying between me and the largest. I could do no more 
than creep quietly from point to point, until the smaller 
animal should start and alarm the larger. This it did 
when I was about a hundred yards from the large bull, 
and both mehedehets sprang up, and, as is usual with this 
species, they stood for a few moments seeking for the 
danger. My clothes and hunting cap matched so well 
with the bark of the tree behind which I was kneeling, 
that I was unobserved, and, taking a rest against the stem 



318 FOUR LUCKY HITS. [chap, xviti. 

with the little Fletcher, I fired both barrels, the right at 
the most distant bull. Both animals simply sprang for an 
instant upon their hind legs, and fell. This was capital ; 
but at the report of the rifle, up jumped two other 
mehedehets, which appeared the facsimiles of those I had 
just shot ; having missed their companions, and seeing no 
one, they stood motionless and gazed in all directions. 

I had left my people far behind when I had commenced 
the stalk, therefore I had no spare rifle. I reloaded behind 
the tree with all haste. I had capped the nipples, and, as 
I looked out from my covering point, I saw them still in 
the same spot ; the larger, with superb horns, was about a 
hundred and twenty yards distant. Again I took a rest, 
and fired. He sprang away as though untouched for the 
first three or four bounds, when he leapt convulsively in 
the air, and fell backwards. This was too much for the 
remaining animal, that w^as standing about a hundred 
yards distant — he bounded off; but the last barrel of the 
little Fletcher caught him through the neck at full gallop, 
and he fell all of a heap, stone dead. 

These were the prettiest shots I ever recollect to have 
made, in a very long experience ; I had bagged four with 
the same rifle in as many shots, as quickly as I could load 
and fire. 

My Tokroori, Abdoolahi, who had been intently watch- 
ing the shots from a distance, came rushing up in hot 
excitement with one of my sharp hunting knives, and, 
springing forward to hamstring one of the animals, that 
was still struggling, he foolishly made a downward cut, 
and, missing his blow, he cut his own leg terribly across 
the shin, the knife flying out of his hand as it struck 
against the bone : he was rendered helpless immediately. 
I tied up the wound with my handkerchief, and, having 
at length loaded the camel with as much meat as we 
could cut off the animals, Abdoolahi was assisted upon 
its back ; my men carried the two finest heads. It was 
very late, and we now sought for a path by which we 
could descend to the river. 

At length we discovered a dangerous antelope-track, 
that descended obliquely, by skirting an exceedingly steep 




HKAl) ol- MKHKDKHKl -(KKDUNCA 1:LI.I I'SI PKVMNA). 



CHAP. XVIII.] A FALL OVER A CLIFF. 319 

side of a hill, with a perpendicular precipice immediately 
below, that fell for about seventy feet sheer to the river. 
My horse Tetel was as sure-footed as a goat, therefore, 
having taken off my shoes to avoid slipping, I led him 
to the bottom safely. Taher ISToor called to the camel- 
driver not to attempt to follow. Although warned, this 
fellow persisted in leading the heavily-laden animal down 
the slippery and dangerous path. Hardly had he gone 
a few paces, when the camel's feet slipped, and it shot 
down the rapid incline, and disappeared over the edge of 
the precipice. I heard the camel roar, and, hastening 
up the path, I looked over the cliff, holding to a rope 
that Taher Xoor fastened to a tree. I perceived that the 
animal was fortunately caught upon a narrow ledge of 
rock, and was prevented from falling to the bottom by a 
tough bush that grew from a -cleft ; this alone supported 
it in mid-air. My Arabs were wild and stupid. 
Abdoolahi had held on like a leech, and, as we were well 
provided with strong ropes, we soon hauled him up, but 
the Arabs declared their camel to be dead, as no power 
on earth could save it. Having examined the cliff, I felt 
sure that we could assist the camel, unless it had already 
broken some bones by the fall ; accordingly, I gave orders 
to the Arabs, who obeyed implicitly, as they were so 
heart-broken at the idea of losing their animal, that they 
had lost all confidence in themselves. "VVe lowered 
down Taher ISToor by a rope to the bush, and after some 
difficulty, he unfastened the load of flesh, which he threw 
piece by piece to a platform of rock below, about ten feet 
square, which formed a shelf a few inches above the level 
of the water. The camel being relieved of both the load 
and its saddle, I ordered the Arabs to fasten together 
all their ropes ; these, being made of twisted antelope's 
hide, were immensely strong, and, as 1 had established 
a rule that several extra bundles should invariably accom- 
pany the water-camel, we had a large supply. The camel 
was now secured by a rope passed round the body beneath 
the fore-legs, and the cloths of the Arabs were wrapped 
around the cord to prevent it from cutting the skin. This 
being arranged, I took a double turn of the rope round 



320 THE EYmNA ENTERS THE TENT. [chap. xvni. 

a tree, as thick as a man's thigh, that grew in a cleft 
of the rock where we stood, and throwing the honey axe 
to Taher Noor, I told him to cut away the bushes that 
supported the camel, and I would lower it gently down 
to the shelf by the water's edge. In a few minutes the 
bushes were cut away, and the camel, roaring with fright, 
swung in mid-air. Taher Noor held on to the rope, 
while I slacked off the line from the tree, and lowered 
both man and beast safely to the shelf, about seventy 
feet below. The camel w^as unhurt, and the Arabs were 
delighted ; two other men now descended. We threw 
them down a quantity of dry wood to make a fire, and, 
as they were well off for meat, we left them prisoners 
upon the ledge of rock with the profoundly deep river 
before them, walled in by abrupt precipices upon either 
side.* It was nearly dark, and, having to find my way to 
the camp among dangerous ravines, I rode fast ahead of 
my men to discover a ford, and to reach home before 
complete darkness should increase the danger. Tetel was 
as sure-footed and as nimble as a cat, but we very nearly 
ended our days together, as the bank of a precipice 
gave way while w^e were skirting the edge. I felt it 
sinking, but the horse sprang forward and saved himself, 
as I heard the mass fall beneath. 

That night we received a very audacious visit. I was 
asleep in my tent, when I was suddenly awakened by a 
slight pull at my sleeve, which was the signal always 
given by my wife if anything was wrong ; on such occa- 
sions, I never replied until I had gently grasped my little 
Fletcher, which always slept with me beneath my mat. 
She now whispered that a hyaena had been within the 
tent, but that it had just bolted out, as these animals are 
so wary that they detect the slightest movement or noise. 
As a rule, I never shot at hyaenas, but, as I feared it 
might eat our saddles, I lay in bed with the rifle to my 
shoulder, pointed towards the tent door through which the 
moon was shining brightly. In a few minutes, a grey- 
looking object stood like an apparition at the entrance, 

* On the following morning the camel was safely floated across the 
river, supported by the inflated skins of the mehedehets. 



CHAP. XVIII.] ABUNDANCE OF GAME. 321 

peering into the tent to see if all were right before it 
entered. I touched the trigger, and the hyaena fell dead, 
with the bullet through its head. This was a regular 
veteran, as his body was covered with old scars from con- 
tinual conflicts with other hyuenas. This was the first 
time that one of these animals had taken such a liberty ; 
they were generally contented with eating the bones that 
were left from our dinner outside the tent door, which they 
cleared away regularly every night. 

We remained in this beautiful country from March 29th 
until April 14th, during which time I seldom remained for 
an hour in camp, from sunrise to sunset ; I was always in 
the saddle or on foot. Two of my best Tokrooris, Hadji 
All and Hassan, usually accompanied me on horseback, 
while Taher Noor and a couple of Arabs rode upon camels 
with a good supply of water. In this manner I traversed 
the entire country, into the base of the great mountain 
chain, and thence down the course of the river towards the 
Atbara junction. This district was entirely composed of 
the most fertile soil, through which the great rivers Angrab 
and Salaam had cut their way in a similar manner to the 
Atbara and Settite. The Salaam, after the junction of the 
Angrab, was equal in appearance to the Atbara, but the 
inclination of this great mountain torrent is so rapid, that 
it quickly becomes exhausted at the cessation of rain in 
the lofty mountains that form its source. Both the Angrab 
and the Salaam are short rivers, but, as they are the two 
main channels for the reception of the entire drainage of a 
vast mountain area, they bring down most violent floods, 
that materially affect the volume of the main artery. 

The whole of this country abounded in game beyond 
any that I had hitherto seen, and I had most glorious 
sport. Among the varieties of antelopes, was a new species 
that I had seen upon several occasions on the Settite, 
where it was extremely rare. On the high open plain? 
above the valley of the Salaam, this antelope was very 
numerous, but so wild and wary that it was impossible 
to approach nearer than from 350 to 500 yards. This 
magniticent animal, the largest of all the antelopes of Abys- 
sinia and Central Africa, is known to the Arabs as the 



322 HIPPOTRAGUS BAKERIL [chap. xvni. 

Maarif (Hippotragus Bakerii). It is a variety of the sable 
antelope of South Africa [Hippotragus Niger). The colour 
is mouse-grey, with a black stripe across the shoulders, 
and black and white lines across the nose and cheeks. 
The height at the shoulder would exceed fourteen hands, 
and the neck is ornamented with a thick and stiff black 
mane. The shoulders are peculiarly massive, and are 
extremely high at the withers ; the horns are very powerful, 
and, like those of the roan and the sable antelope, they are 
annulated, and bend gracefully backwards. Both the 
male and female are provided with horns ; those of the 
former are exceedingly thick, and the points frequently 
extend so far as to reach the shoulders. 

The Maarif invariably inhabits open plains, upon which 
it can see an enemy at a great distance, thus it is the most 
difficult of all animals to stalk. Nothing can be more 
beautiful than a herd of these superb animals, but the only 
successful method of hunting would be to course them 
with greyhounds ; my dogs were dead, thus I depended 
entirely upon the rifle. I was also deprived of the assist- 
ance of the agcraaeers, whom I had left at the Eovan. 

Ehinoceros and giraffes were very numerous throughout 
this country; but the ground was most unfavourable for 
riding. The surface resembled a beautiful park, composed 
of a succession of undulations, interspersed with thornless 
trees, and watered by streamlets at intervals of five or 
eight miles, while the magnificent Alps of Abyssinia 
bounded the view to the south ; but there was no enjoy- 
ment in this country on horseback. The rainy season 
converted this rich loam into a pudding, and the dry 
season baked it into a pie-crust. The entire surface was 
loose, flaky, and hollow ; there was not a yard of ground 
that was not split into deep crevices, that were regular 
pitfalls ; and so unsound was the general character of the 
country, that a horse sank above his fetlocks at every 
footstep. I usually rode during the day when exploring ; 
but whenever I shot, it was necessary to dismount, as it 
was impossible to follow an animal successfully on horse- 
back. I had on several occasions attempted to ride down 
a giraffe, but upon such ground I had not the slightest 



CHAP. XVIII.] FOLWW A HERD OF ELEPHANTS. 323 

chance ; thus the aggageers, who invariably hunt the 
giraffe by riding at full speed until they can hamstring it 
with the sword, never visit this country. This accounted 
for the presence of so large a number of animals, as they 
were never di'sturbed by these untiring hunters. 

Our camp was pitched at the junction of a torrent, 
which, flowing from the higher ground, joined the river 
Salaam in a succession of waterfalls. At this season, a 
gentle stream, as clear as glass, rippled over a rocky bed 
about twenty yards wide, and the holes in the flat surface 
above the fall formed natural basins of the purest water. 
I frequently strolled for some miles along the bed of the 
stream, that afforded excellent pasturage for the horses in 
a sweet, green grass, that was not only an attraction to 
antelopes and buffaloes {Bos Caffer), but formed a covert 
for incredible numbers of the beautiful francolin partridge, 
which might have been shot in hundreds as they rose from 
the cool herbage that afforded both food and concealment. 
I was returning late one evening along the bed of the 
stream, after a day's shooting, during which I had bagged 
several antelopes and wild boar, when I observed at a 
distance a dark mass in the bright yellow grass, which I 
quickly distinguished as a herd of elephants. It was just 
dusk, and having endeavoured to meet them as they came 
to drink, but without success, I determined to track them 
up on the following morning. I started at daybreak, with 
all my horses and gun-bearers. For about sixteen miles 
we tracked up the herd to within a short distance of the 
base of the mountain range. During the march, we had 
seen large quantities of giraffes, and all the varieties of 
large antelopes. The country, that had consisted of a vast 
plain, now changed to rapid undulations ; the trees were 
generally small, and, at this season of intense dryness, were 
devoid of leaves. At the bottom of one of these undula- 
tions, among a number of skeleton trees, that afforded no 
shade, we discovered the elephants, standing in the high 
withered grass, that entirely concealed all but the upper 
portion of their heads ; they were amusing themselves by 
tearing up the trees, and feeding upon the succulent roots. 
I ordered Taher Noor and Bacheet each to take a horse 

Y 2 



324 AGGAHR TAKES THE LEAD. [ghap. xviti. 

and rifle, and to lead them, together with my hunter 
Aggahr, about a hundred yards behind me, while I ad- 
vanced towards the elephants on foot. At the sound of the 
first shot they were to mount, and to bring my horse and 
spare guns as rapidly as possible. Unfortunately, the herd 
was alarmed by a lai'ge bull giraffe that was asleep in the 
grass, which started up within thirty yards of us, and 
dashed off in terror through the mass of elephants. Their 
attention was roused, and they moved off to my left, which 
change of position immediately gave them our wind. 
There was no time to lose, as the herd was in retreat ; and, 
as they were passing across my path, at about two hundred 
paces distance, I ran at my best speed, stumbling through 
the broken pie-crust, and sinking in the yawning crevices, 
the sides of which were perfectly rotten, until I arrived 
within shot of about twenty-five elephants. I was just on 
the point of firing at the temple of a large animal that was 
within about ten yards, when it suddenly turned, and 
charged straight at me. With the right-hand barrel of a 
Eeilly ISTo. 10, I was fortunate enough to turn it by a fore- 
head shot, when so close that it was nearly upon me. As 
it swerved, I fired the remaining barrel exactly through 
the centre of the shoulder ; this dropped and killed the 
elephant as though it had been shot through the brain. 

The difficulties of the ground were such, that the horses 
were not led as quickly as I had expected ; thus I had to 
reload, which I had just completed when Aggahr was 
brought by Taher Noor. Springing into the saddle I at 
once gave chase. The gallant old horse flew along 
through the high grass, regardless of the crevices and 
rotten ground. The herd was about three hundred yards 
ahead, but the long steady stride of Aggahr quickly 
shortened the distance, and in a few minutes I was riding 
alongside the elephants, that were shambling along at a 
great pace. I determined to head them, and drive them 
back towards my people, in which case I expected that we 
might be able to surround them. I touched Aggahr with 
the spur, and he shot ahead of the leading elephants, when 
I turned sharp to the right exactly before their path, and 
gave a shout to check their advance ; in the same instant, 



CHAP. XVIII.] BENIGHTED ON OUR RETURN TO CAMP. 325 

Aggalir turned a complete somersault within a few yards 
of their feet, having put his fore-leg into a deep crevice, 
and I rolled over almost beneath the elephants with the 
heavy ritle in my hand. The horse recovered quicker than 
I, and, galloping off, he vanished in the high grass, leaving 
me rather confused from the fall upon my head. The 
herd, instead of crushing me as they ought to have done, 
took fright, and bolted off at their best pace. My eyes 
were dancing with the fall ; the mounted gun-bearers were 
nowhere, as Gazelle would not face the elephants, and 
T^tel was far behind. My English saddle had vanished 
with Aggahr, and, as the stirrups of the Arab saddles were 
simple rings for the accommodation of the big toe, they 
were unserviceable. Had the aggageers been with me, I 
should have had great sport with this herd ; but, with the 
exception of Taher Noor, the men were bad horsemen, and 
even he was afraid of the ground, which was frightfully 
dangerous. 

We discovered that the bullet had passed through the 
great artery of the heart, which had caused the instan- 
taneous death of the elephant I had shot. 

We were now at least seventeen miles from camp, and 
I feared that Aggahr would be lost, and would most likely 
be devoured by a lion during the niglit : thus I should lose 
not only my good old hunter, but my English saddle. I 
passed several hours in searching for him in all directions, 
and, in order to prevent him from straying to the south, 
we fired the grass in all directions ; we thus had a line of 
fire between the camp and ourselves ; this burnt slowly, as 
the north wind had carried the blaze rapidly in the other 
direction. We rode along the bottom of a watercourse, 
and reached the Salaam river, thus avoiding the fire ; but, 
some hours before we nea-red the camp, night had set in. 
We had beaten the fire, as we had got to windward, and 
slowly and tediously we toiled along the crumbling soil, 
stumbling among the crevices, that were nearly invisible 
in the moonlight. 

Thus we crept onwards ; I had found riding impracti- 
cable, tlierefore the horses were led, with mucli difficulty, 
as they constantly slipped up to their knees in the 



326 ''Airs WELL THAT ENDS WELLr [chap, xviii. 

numerous fissures. It was difficult to recognise our posi- 
tion in the moonlight, and we were doubtful whether we 
had not missed our route to the camp. My watch told me 
that it w^as past nine o'clock, and we had been sixteen 
hours in hard work wdthout the slightest rest. We halted 
to confer about the direction of the camp, when suddenly 
I heard the report of a gun to our right ; we immediately 
turned, and hastened towards the welcome sound ; pre- 
sently I heard a distant shout. As we approached, this 
was repeated, and as I hurried forward, I recognised my 
own name shouted in an agonised voice. I ran on alone 
at my best speed, after giving a loud shrill whistle upon 
my fingers. This was quickly replied to, and I repeated 
the well-known signal, until in about ten minutes I met 
my wife, who had been wandering about the country half 
distracted for hours, searching for me in every direction, as 
my horse Aggahr had returned to the camp with the bridle 
broken, and the empty saddle scratched by the boughs of 
trees ; she had naturally concluded that some accident had 
happened. She had immediately armed herself with the 
little Fletcher that had been left in the camp, being too 
small for elephants; with this, and several of the Arabs 
armed with swords and lances, she had been hunting 
throughout this wild country during the night in a state 
of terrible anxiety. It was fortunate that she had fired 
the shot to direct our attention, otherwise we might have 
passed each other Avithout being seen. "All's well that 
ends w^ell : " we were about three miles from camp, but the 
distance appeared short to everybody, as we now knew^ the 
true direction, and we at length perceived the glare of a 
large fire that our people had lighted as a beacon. 

The horse, Aggahr, must have found his way without 
difficulty, as he had arrived a little before sunset. This 
curious instinct, that enables a horse to find the direction 
to its last halting-place in a wild and pathless country, 
was thoroughly appreciated by the Arabs, w^ho had com- 
forted me wdth the assurance, that no Abyssinian horse 
would lose his way to the spot where he had last passed 
the night, if separated from his rider. 



CHAPTEE XIX. 

SEND A PARTY TO RECONNOITEE. 

I HAD thoroughly explored the beautiful country of the 
Salaam and Angrab ; it was the 11th of April, and I in- 
tended to push on to Gallabat, the frontier market-town of 
Abyssinia. We had no guide, as the fellow that had been 
supplied by Mek Nimmur had absconded the day after 
our arrival at the Salaam, but during the march he had 
pointed out a blue outline of a distant mountain in the 
south, that was called Nahoot Guddabi, or the Saddle of 
Guddabi. This was an unmistakeable landmark, as it 
exactly resembled an Arab saddle; at the foot of this 
mountain was the Tokroori village of Guddabi, the first 
habitation, at a distance of about fifty miles from the Bahr 
Salaam. Although, from the experience I had had in this 
neighbourhood, I had little doubt of the supply of water 
on the road, I sent three of my Tokrooris upon as many 
camels with water-skins, to reconnoitre before I should 
move the camp. 

On the second day they returned, and reported the 
existence of several small streams, all of which produced 
excellent water. 

We started on the following afternoon, and, with Hassan 
as our guide, and Taher Noor upon a camel, my wife and 
I cantered ahead of the main body, over a high ridge of 
stony, and accordingly firm ground. Upon arrival at the 
summit, we had a lovely view of the surrounding country, 
and we commenced a gentle descent into a vast plain 
sparsely covered with small trees. In the extensive pro- 
spect before us, the dark green veins of foliage in the 
otherwise yellow surface of withered grass marked out 
distinctly the course of small rivulets. We hurried on, 
sometimes over blackened ashes, where the fire had swept 
all before it, at other times through withered grass, thai 



328 THE MAARIF. [chap. xix. 

had been saved from destruction through the intervention 
of some ravine. At 7.30 p.m. we arrived at an excellent 
halting place, by a beautiful but small stream of water, 
shaded by a fringe of dome palms ; this was by dead 
reckoning seventeen miles from our last camp. It had 
been pleasant travelling, as the moon was fuU; we had 
ridden fast, therefore it was useless to expect the camels 
for some hours ; we accordingly spread the carpet on the 
ground, and lay down to sleep, with the stocks of the rifles 
for pillows, as we had frequently done on former occasions. 

On the following morning I sent a couple of men on 
camels to reconnoitre the country in advance, towards 
Guddabi, and to return with the report of the supply of 
water. This country abounded with large game, especially 
with the beautiful antelope already described, the maarif ; 
they were as usual extremely wild, but T succeeded in 
breaking the hip of a fine bull at a long range; and, 
separating him from the herd, I ran the wounded antelope 
until I was thoroughly exhausted in the intense heat of 
the sun, but I lost it in the thick bush not far from our 
camp. That night we heard a lion roaring close to us, and 
upon searching at daybreak I found the remains of a 
maarif, which I imagine must have been my woimded 
bull. 

I mounted my horse Tetel, and, with Taher Noor and 
two of my Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, 1 rode to- 
wards a pyramidical hill about three miles distant, which 
I intended to ascend in order to obtain a panoramic view 
of the country. This hill was about three hundred feet 
high, and, as the fire had swept away a portion of the 
grass for several miles around, I should obtain a clear view 
of all living animals that might be in the neighbourhood. 
Upon arrival at the base of the hill I dismounted, and led 
my horse up the steep inclination of broken basalt that 
had fallen from the summit. From the top of the peak 
I had a superb panorama of the country, the mountain 
Nahoot Guddabi bearing S.W. about thirty miles distant. 
I had a complete bird's-eye view of great extent, and I 
immediately distinguished, in various positions, giraffes, 
buffaloes, t^tel, and boars. At this season the trees were 



CHAP. XIX.] VIEW FROM THE PEAK, 329 

leafless, thus any animal upon the low ground ^YOuld be at 
once discovered from this elevated point. I extract from 
my journal the account of this day's hunt, as it was 
written immediately upon my return to camp. 

" I had been observing the country for some time from 
my high station, when I suddenly perceived two rhinoceros 
emerge from a ravine ; they walked slowly through a patch 
of high grass, and skirted the base of the hill upon which 
we were standing : presently they winded something, and 
they trotted back and stood concealed in the patch of 
grass. Although I had a good view of them from my 
present position, I knew that I should not be able to see 
them in their covert, if on the same level ; I therefore de- 
termined to send to the tent for my other horses, and to 
ride them down, if T could not shoot them on foot ; accord- 
ingly, I sent a man off, directing him to lead Tetel from 
the peak, and to secure him to a tree at the foot of the 
hill, as I was afraid the rhinoceros might observe the horse 
upon the sky line. This he did, and we saw him tie the 
horse by the bridle to the branch of a tree below us, w-hile 
he ran quickly towards the camp. In the mean time I 
watched the rhinoceros ; both animals lay down in the 
yellow grass, resembling masses of stone. They had not 
been long in this position, before we noticed two pigs wan- 
dering through the grass directly to windward, towards the 
sleeping rhinoceros ; in an instant these animals winded 
the intruders, and starting up, they looked in all directions, 
but could not see them, as they were concealed by the 
high grass. Having been thus disturbed, the rhinoceros 
moved their quarters, and walked slowly forward, occa- 
sionally halting, and listening ; one w^as about a hundred 
yards in advance of the other. They were taking a direc- 
tion at the base of the hill that would lead them directly 
upon the spot where Tetel was tied to the tree. I observed 
this to Taher Noor, as I feared they would kill the horse. 
' Oh, no,' he replied, 'they will lie down and sleep beneath 
the first tree, as they are seeking for shade — tlie sun is 
like fire.' However, they still continued their advance, 
and, upon reaching some rising ground, the leading rhino- 
ceros halted, and I felt sure that he had a clear view of 



330 THE RHINOCEROS ATTACKS THE HORSE, [chap. xix. 

the horse, that was now about five hundred yards distant, 
tied to the tree. A ridge descended from the hill, parallel 
with the course the animals were taking ; upon this, I ran 
as quickly as the stony slope permitted, keeping my eye 
fixed upon the leading rhinoceros, who, with his head 
raised, was advancing directly towards the horse. I now 
felt convinced that he intended to attack it. Tetel did not 
observe the rhinoceros, but was quietly standing beneath 
the tree. I ran as fast as I was able, and reached the 
bottom of the hill just as the wilful brute was within fifty 
yards of the horse, which now for the first time saw the 
approaching danger; the rhinoceros had been advancing 
steadily at a walk, but he now lowered his head, and 
charged at the horse at full speed. 

" I was about two hundred yards distant, and for the 
moment I was afraid of shooting the horse, but I fired one 
of the Reilly No. 10 rifles ; the bullet, missing the rhino- 
ceros, dashed the sand and stones into his face, as it struck 
the ground exactly before his nose, when he appeared to 
be just into the unfortunate Tetel. The horse in the same 
instant reared, and, breaking the bridle, it dashed away in 
the direction of the camp, w^hile the rhinoceros, astonished 
at the shot, and most likely half blinded by the sand and 
splinters of rock, threw up his head, turned round, and 
trotted back upon the track by which he had arrived. He 
passed me at about a hundred yards distance, as I had run 
forward to a bush, by which he trotted with his head 
raised, seeking for the cause of his discomfiture. Crack ! 
went a bullet against his hide, as I fired my remaining 
barrel at his shoulder ; he cocked his tail, and for a few 
yards he charged towards the shot ; but he ^ suddenly 
changed his course, and ran round several times in a small 
circle ; he then halted, and reeling to and fro, he retreated 
very slowly, and lay down about a hundred yards off. 
Well done, Eeilly I I knew that he had his quietus, but I 
was determined to bag his companion, who in alarm had 
now joined him, and stood looking in all quarters for the 
source of danger ; but we were well concealed behind the 
bush. Presently, the wounded rhinoceros stood up, and 
walking very slowly, followed by his comrade, he crossed a 




1 .1^^ 



CHAP. XIX.] KILI A RHINOCEROS. 331 

portion of rising ground at the base of the hill, and both 
animals disappeared. I at once started off Hassan, who 
could run like an antelope, in search of T(5tel, while I de- 
spatched another man to the summit of the peak to see if 
the rhinoceros were in view ; if not, I knew they must be 
among the small trees and bushes at the foot of the hill. 
I thus waited for a long time, until at length the two 
greys, Aggahr and Gazelle, arrived with my messenger 
from the camp. I tightened the girths of the Arab saddle 
upon Aggahr, and I had just mounted, cursing all Arab 
stirrups, that are only made for the naked big toe, when 
my eyes were gladdened by the sight of Hassan cantering 
towards me upon Tetel, but from the exact direction the 
rhinoceros had taken. ' Quick ! quick ! ' he cried, ' come 
along ! One rhinoceros is lying dead close by, and the 
other is standing beneath a tree not far off.' 

" I immediately jumped on Tetel, and, taking the little 
Fletcher rifle, as lighter and handier than the heavy No. 10, 
I ordered Taher Noor and Hassan to mount the other 
horses, and to follow me with spare rifles. I found the 
rhinoceros lying dead about two hundred yards from the 
spot wdiere he had received the shot, and I immediately 
perceived the companion, that was standing beneath a 
small tree. The ground was firm and stony, all the grass 
had been burnt off, except in a few small patches; the 
trees were not so thick together as to form a regular 
jungle. 

" The rhinoceros saw us directly, and he valiantly stood 
and faced me as I rode up within fifty yards of him. Tetel 
is worth his weight in gold as a shooting horse : he stands 
like a rock, and would face the devil. I was unable to 
take a shot in this position, therefore I ordered the men to 
ride round a half-circle, as I knew the rhinoceros would 
turn towards the white horses, and thus expose his flank ; 
this he did immediately, and firing well, exactly at the 
shoulder, I dropped him as though stone dead. Taher 
Noor shouted, ' Samme durrupto ! ' (well shot) ; the rhi- 
noceros lay kicking upon the gTOund, and I thought he 
was bagged. Not a bit of it! the IS^o. 24? bullet had not 
force to break the massive shoulder bone, but had merely 



332 THE REINOCEROS HUNT. [chap. xix. 

paralysed it for the moment ; up lie jumped, and started off 
in full gallop. Now for a hunt! up the hill he started, 
then obliquely; he chose a regular rhinoceros path, and 
scudded away, Tetel answering to the spur and closing 
with him ; through the trees ; now down the hill over the 
loose rocks, where he gained considerably upon the horse. 
' Easy down the hill, gently over the stones, Tetel,' and I 
took a pull at the reins until I reached the level ground 
beneath, which was jBrm and first-rate. I saw the rhino- 
ceros pelting away about a hundred and twenty yards 
ahead, and spurring hard, I shot up to him at full speed 
until within twenty yards, when round he came with 
astonishing quickness, and charged straight at the horse. 
I was prepared for this, as was my horse also ; we avoided 
him by a quick turn, and again renewed the chase, and 
regained our position within a few yards of the game. 
Thus the hunt continued for about a mile and a half, the 
rhinoceros occasionally charging, but always cleverly 
avoided by the horse. Tetel seemed to enjoy the fun, 
and hunted like a greyhound. Nevertheless I had not 
been able to pass the rhinoceros, who had thundered along 
at a tremendous pace w^henever I had attempted to close ; 
however, the pace began to tell upon his wounded shoulder; 
he evidently went lame, and, as I observed at some . dis- 
tance before us the commencement of the dark- coloured 
rotten ground, I felt sure that it would shortly be a case 
of ' stand still.' In this I was correct, and, upon reaching 
the deep and crumbling soil, he turned sharp round, made 
a clumsy charge that I easily avoided, and he stood panting 
at bay. Taher Noor was riding Gazelle ; this was a very 
'timid horse and was utterly useless as a hunter, but, as it 
reared and plunged upon seeing the rhinoceros, that animal 
immediately turned towards it with the intention of 
charging. Eiding Tetel close to his flank, I fired both 
barrels of the little Fletcher into the shoulder ; he fell to 
the shots, and, stretching out his legs convulsively, he died 
immediately." 

This Avas a capital termination to the hunt ; as I had 
expected the death of my good horse Tetel, when the first 
rhinoceros had so nearly horned him. The sun was like a 



1 



CHAP. XIX.] ARRIVAL OF BIRDS OF PREY. 333 

furnace, therefore I rode straight to camp, and sent men 
and camels for the hides and flesh. As I passed the body 
of the first rhinoceros, I found a regiment of vultures 
ah-eady collected around it, while fresh arrivals took place 
every minute, as they gathered from all quarters ; they 
had already torn out the eyes, and dragged a portion of 
flesh from the bullet-wound in the shoulder; but the 
tough hide of the rhinoceros was proof against their greedy 
beaks. A number of Marabou storks had also arrived, 
and were standing proudly among the crowd of vultures, 
preparing to perform the duty of sextons, when the skin 
should become sufficiently decomposed. Throughout all 
the countries that I had traversed, these birds were in 
enormous numbers. The question has been frequently dis- 
cussed whether the vulture is directed to his prey by the 
sense of smell, or by keenness of vision ; I have paid much 
attention to their habits, and, although there can be no 
question that their power of scent is great, I feel convinced 
that all birds of prey are attracted to their food principally 
by theii' acuteness of sight. If a vulture were blind, it 
would starve ; but were the nostrils plugged up wdth some 
foreign substance to destroy its power of smell, it would 
not materially interfere with its usual mode of hunting. 
Scent is always stronger near the surface of the ground ; 
thus hysenas, lions, and other beasts of prey will scent 
a carcase from a great distance, provided they are to 
leeward ; but the same animals w^ould be unaware of the 
presence of the body if they were but a short distance to 
windward. 

If birds of prey trusted to their nostrils, they would 
keep as near the ground as possible, like the carrion crow, 
which I believe is the exception that proves the rule. It 
is an astonishing sight to witness the sudden arrival of 
vultures at the death of an animal, when a few moments 
before not a bird has been in sight in the cloudless sky. 
I have frequently laid down beneath a bush after having 
shot an animal, to watch the arrival of the various species 
of birds in regular succession ; they invariably appear in 
the following order : — 

No. 1, the black and white crow : this knowing indi- 



334 HABITS OF CULTURES. [chap xix. 

vidual is most industrious in seeking for his food, and 
is generally to be seen either perched upon rocks or 
upon trees ; I believe he trusts much to his sense of 
smell, as he is never far from the ground, at the same 
time he keeps a vigilant look-out with a very sharp pair 
of eyes. 

No. 2 is the common buzzard : this bird, so well known 
for its extreme daring, is omnipresent, and trusts generally 
to sight, as it will stoop at a piece of red cloth in mistake 
for flesh; thus proving that it depends more upon vision 
than smell 

No. 3 is the red-faced small vulture. 

No. 4 is the large bare-throated vulture. 

No. 5, the Marabou stork, sometimes accompanied by 
the adjutant. 

When employed in watching the habits of these birds, 
it is interesting to make the experiment of concealing 
a dead animal beneath a dense bush. This I have fre- 
quently done ; in which case the vultures never find it 
unless they have witnessed its death; if so, they will 
already have pounced in their descent while you have 
been engaged in concealing the body : they will then upon 
near approach discover it by the smell. But, if an animal 
is killed in thick grass, eight or ten feet high, the vultures 
will seldom discover it. I have frequently known the 
bodies of large animals, such as elephants and buffaloes, 
to lie for days beneath the shade of the dense nabbuk 
bushes, unattended by a single vulture ; whereas, if visible, 
they would have been visited by these birds in thousands. 

Vultures and the Marabou stork fly at enormous alti- 
tudes. I believe that every species keeps to its own 
particular elevation, and that the atmosphere contains 
regular strata of birds of prey, who, invisible to the human 
eye at their enormous height, are constantly resting upon 
their wide-spread wings, and soaring in circles, watching 
with telescopic sight the world beneath. "At that great 
elevation they are in an exceedingly cool temperature, 
therefore they require no water ; but some birds that make 
long flights over arid deserts, such as the Marabou stork, 
and the buzzard, are provided with water-sacks ; the former 



CH. XIX.] SIGHT, NOT SCENT, DIRECTS THE VULTURE. 335 

in an external bag a little below the throat, the latter in an 
internal sack, both of which carry a large supply. As tlje 
birds of prey that I have enumerated, invariably appear at 
a carcase in their regular succession, I can only suggest 
that they travel from different distances or altitudes. 
Thus, the Marabou stork would be farthest from the 
earth; the large bare-necked vulture would be the next 
below him, followed by the red-faced vulture, the buzzard, 
and the crow that is generally about the surface. From 
their immense elevation, the birds of prey possess an 
extraordinary field of vision; and, although they are 
invisible from the earth, there can be no doubt that they 
are perpetually hunting in circles within sight of each 
other. Thus, should one bird discover some object upon 
the surface of the earth below, his sudden pounce would 
be at once observed and imitated by every vulture in suc- 
cession. Should one vulture nearest the earth perceive a 
body, or even should he notice the buzzards collecting at 
a given point, he would at once become aware of a prey ; 
his rush towards the spot would act like a telegraphic 
signal to others, that would be rapidly communicated to 
every vulture at successive airy stations. 

If any animal be skinned, the red surface will attract 
the vultures in an instant ; this proves that their sight, and 
not their scent, has been attracted by an object that 
suggests blood. I have frequently watched them when 1 
have shot an animal, and my people have commenced the 
process of skinning. At first, not a bird has been in sight, 
as I have lain on my back and gazed into the spotless blue 
sky ; but hardly has the skin been half withdrawn, than 
specks have appeared in the heavens, rapidly increasing. 
" Caw, caw," has been heard several times from the neigh- 
bouring bushes; the buzzards have swept down close to 
my people, and have snatched a morsel of clotted blood 
from the ground. The specks have increased to winged 
creatures, at the great height resembling flies, when pre- 
sently a rushing sound behind me, like a whirlwind, has 
been followed by the pounce of a red-faced vulture, that 
has fallen from the heavens in haste with closed wings 
to the bloody feast, followed quickly by many of his 



336 ROUTE TO NAEOOT GUBDABl. [chap. xix. 

brethren. The sky has become alive "with black specks 
in the far- distant bine, with wings hnrrying from all 
quarters. At leng-th a coronet of steady, soaring vnltures, 
forms a wide circle far above, as they hesitate to descend, 
but continue to revolve around the object of attraction. 
The great bare-necked vulture suddenly appears. The 
animal has been skinned, and the required flesh secured by 
the men ; we withdxaw a hundred paces from the scene. 
A general rush and descent takes place ; hundreds of 
hungry beaks are tearing at the offal. The great bare- 
necked vulture claims respect among the crowd ; but 
another form has appeared in the blue sky, and rapidly de- 
scends. A pair of long, ungainly legs, hanging down 
beneath the enormous wings, now touch the ground, and 
Abou Seen (father of the teeth or beak, the Arab name for 
the Marabou) has arrived, and he stalks proudly towards 
the crowds, pecking his way with his long bill through the 
struggling vultures, and swallowing the lion's share of the 
repast. Abou Seen, last but not least, had arrived from the 
highest region, while others had the advantage of the 
start. This bird is very numerous through the Nile 
tributaries of Abyssinia, and may generally be seen perched 
upon the rocks of the water-side, watching for small fish, 
or any reptile that may chance to come Y\dthin his reach. 
The well-known feathers are situated in a plume beneath 
the tail. 

On 14th April we left our camp in the afternoon, and, 
after marching nine miles, during which we passed two 
small streams, flowing, like all others, from this point, west 
to the Atbara, we slept by a large pool in a third stream of 
considerable size. A waterfall flowed over a row of per- 
pendicular basalt columns that surrounded a deep basin, 
resembling piles of ebony artificially arranged. On the 
following morning we started before sunrise, and rode over 
the usual pathless burnt prairies, until we reached the base 
of Nahoot Guddabi, the mountain for wdiich we had been 
steering. Eight miles farther, we arrived at Metemma, a 
Tokroori village, in the heart of the mountains, twenty- 
seven miles from our last resting-place, and fifty-one miles 
from our camp on the Salaam river. From this point to 



CHAP. XIX.J ARRIVE AT THE ATBARA 337 

the river Salaam, the entire country slopes perceptibly to 
the west — the drainage being carried to the Atbara by 
numerous streams. The country that we had now 
entered, was inhabited exclusively by Tokrooris, although 
belonging to Abyssinia. They came out to meet us upon 
our arrival at the village, and immediately fraternised with 
those of our people that belonged to their tribe, from whom 
they quickly learnt all about us. They brought us a he- 
goat, together with milk and honey. The latter we had 
revelled in for some months past, as the countries through 
which we travelled abounded with a supply in the rocks 
and hollow trees ; but the milk was a luxury, as our goats 
were nearly dry. The he-goat was a regular old patriarch 
of the flock, and, for those who are fond of savoury food, 
it might have been a temptation, but as it exhaled a per- 
fume that rendered its presence unbearable, we were 
obliged to hand it over as a present to our Tokrooris — even 
they turned up their noses at the offer. A crowd of 
natives surrounded us, and the account of our travels was 
related with the usual excitement, amidst the ejaculations 
of the hearers, when they heard that we had been in the 
country of the Base, and had trusted ourselves in the 
power of Mek Nimmur. 

On the following morning we were off before sunrise, 
and marched rapidly over a good path through low forest, 
at the foot of a range of hills ; and after a journey of 
twenty miles, during which we had passed several small 
villages, and many brooks that flowed from the mountains, 
we arrived at our old friend, the Atbara river, at the sharp 
angle as it issues from the mountains. At this place it was 
in its infancy. The noble Atbara, whose course we had 
tracked for hundreds of weary miles, and whose tributaries 
we had so carefully examined, was a second-class mountain 
torrent, about equal to the Eoyan, and not to be named in 
comparison with the Salaam or Angrab. The power of 
the Atbara depended entirely upon the western drainage of 
the Abyssinian Alps : of itself it was insignificant, until 
aided by the great arteries of the mountain chain. Tiie 
junction of the Salaam at once changed its character ; and 
the Settite or Taccazzy completed its importance as the 

z 



338 THE AT BAR A EXPL RATIO X COMPLETED, [ch. xix. 

great river of Abyssinia, that has washed down the fertile 
soil of those regions to create the Delta of Lower Egypt ; 
and to perpetuate that Delta by annual deposits, that are 
tiovj forming a nevj Egypt beneath the waters of the Medi- 
terranean. We had seen the Atbara a bed of glaring sand 
— a mere continuation of the burning desert that sur- 
rounded its course, fringed by a belt of withered trees, like 
a monument sacred to the memory of a dead river. We 
had seen the sudden rush of waters when, in the still 
night, the mysterious stream had invaded the dry bed, and 
swept all before it like an awakened giant ; we knew at 
that moment "the rains were falling in Abyssinia," 
altliough the sky above us was without a cloud. We had 
subsequently witnessed that tremendous rainfall, and seen 
the Atbara at its grandest flood. We had traced each 
river, and crossed each tiny stream, that fed the mighty 
Atbara from the mountain chain, and we now, after our 
long journey, forded the Atbara in its infancy, hardly knee- 
deep, over its rocky bed of about sixty yards width, and 
camped in the little village of Toganai, on the rising ground 
upon the opposite side. It was evening, and we sat upon 
an angarep among the lovely hills that surrounded us, and 
looked down upon the Atbara for the last time, as the sun 
sank behind the rugged mountain of Eas el Feel (the 
elephant's head). Once more I thought of that wonderful 
river Xile, that could flow for ever through the exhaustincr 
deserts of sand, while the Atbara, during the summer 
months, shrank to a dry skeleton, although the powerful 
affluents, the Salaam and the Settite, never ceased to flow ; 
every drop of their waters was evaporated by the air and 
absorbed by the desert sand in the bed of the Atbara, two 
hundred miles above its junction with the Nile ! 

The Atbara exploration was completed; and I looked 
forward to the fresh enterprise of new rivers and lower 
latitudes, that should unravel the mystery of the Nile ! 



CHAPTEE XX. 

AERIVAL AT METElNniA, OR GALL.VBAT. 

We left the village of Toganai at 5 a.m. and, after a rapid 
march of sixteen miles, we came in view of Metemma, or 
Gallabat, in the bottom of a valley surrounded by hills, 
and backed on the east by the range of mountains of 
which Nahoot Guddabi formed the extremity of a spur. 
As we descended the valley, we perceived great crowds of 
people in and about the town, which, in appearance, was 
merely a repetition of Katariff. It was market-day, and 
as we descended the hill and arrived in the scene below, 
with our nine camels heavily laden with the heads and 
horns of a multitude of different beasts, from the gaping 
jaws of hippopotami to the v.icious-looking heads of rhino- 
ceros and buffalo, while the skins of lions and various 
antelopes were piled above masses of the much-prized 
hide of the rhinoceros, we were beset by crowds of people 
who were curious to know whence so strange a party had 
appeared. We formed a regular procession through the 
market, oar Tokrooris feeling quite at home among so 
many of their brethren. Upon our arrival at the extremity 
of the valley, we were horribly disgusted at the appear- 
ance of the water. A trifling stream of about two inches 
in depth trickled over a bed of sand, shaded by a grove 
of trees. The putrefying bodies of about half a dozen 
donkeys, three or four camels, and the remains of a 
number of horses, lay in and about the margin of the 
water. Nevertheless, the natives had scraped small holes 
in the sand, as filters, and thus they were satisfied with 
this poisonous fluid; in some of these holes, the women 
were washing their filthy clothes. I immediately deter- 
mined to follow up stream, until I should arrive at some 
clear spot above these horrible impurities, that were suffi- 
cient to create a pestilence. Ascending the rising ground, 

z2 



340 THE TRADE OF ABYSSINIA. [chap. xx. 

I found on the summit, at about half a mile distant, an 
immense sycamore {Ficus sycmnorus), whose green and 
wide-spreading branches afforded a tempting shade, l^ot 
far from this spot, I found the bed of a dry torrent that 
flowed into the poisoned stream of Gallabat. I ordered 
my men to dig a deep hole in the sand, which fortunately, 
discovered clear and good-flavoured water. We imme- 
diately pitched tents close to the sycamore. From this 
elevation, about a hundred and fifty feet above Gallabat, 
we had a beautiful view of the amphitheatre of hills and 
mountains, while the crowded town lay below, as in the 
bottom of a basin. The Atbara was not far distant, 
in the ravine between the hill ranges, as it had made a 
sharp angle at Toganai, and altered its direction to the 
north. 

Our arrival had made some stir in Gallabat, and many 
people had followed us, and stared with much curiosity at 
the collection of hunting trophies. Among our visitors 
was an Abyssinian merchant, Jusef, whose acquaintance 
I had formerly made at Cassala ; he was an agreeable and 
well-informed man, who had been in Paris and London, 
and spoke French and English tolerably. I accompanied 
him for a stroll through the market, and was introduced by 
him to a number of the principal Abyssinian merchants. 
The principal trade of Gallabat, which is the market-place 
for all commerce between Abyssinia and the Egyptian 
provinces, is in cotton, coffee, bees'-wax, and hides. Coftee 
is brought in large quantities by the Abyssinian mer- 
chants, who buy cotton in exchange, for the manufacture 
of clothes according to their own fashion. I bought a 
quantity of excellent coffee at the rate of two dollars for 
thirty-five pounds, equal to about 2|c?. a pound. Sheds 
were arranged in lines ; these were occupied by the coffee- 
merchants with their stores, while a great stock of cotton 
in bales, to the number of some thousand, were piled in 
rows in an open space. Not far from the mass of goods, 
was a confusion of camels, asses, and mules that had 
formed the means of transport. I now met an Italian 
merchant, with whom I subsequently became intimately 
acquainted, Signer Angelo Bolognesi — he had arrived from 



CHAP. XX.] JFE ENCOUNTER MISSIONARIES. 341 

Khartoum to purchase coffee and bees'-wax. We were 
delighted to meet a civilized European after so long an 
absence. For some months we had had little intercourse 
with any human beings beyond the hunters that had com- 
posed our party, in countries that were so wild and savage, 
that the print of a naked foot upon the sand had instinc- 
tively brought the rifle upon full cock. Our European 
society was quickly increased : two German missionaries 
had arrived, en route for an establishment that had been 
set on foot in the lieart of Abyssinia, under the very nose 
of the King Theodore, who regarded missionaries as an 
unsavoury odour. Both were suffering from fever, having 
foolishly located themselves in a hut close to the foi2 
stench of dead animals on the margin of the polluted 
stream, the water of which they drank. One of these 
preachers was a blacksmith, whose iron constitution had 
entirely given Avay, and the little strength that remained, 
he exhausted in endless quotations of texts from the Biblei 
which he considered applicable to every trifling event or 
expression. I regretted that I could not agree with him 
in the propriety of invading Abyssinia with Bible extracts, 
as the natives attached as great importance to their own 
particular form of Christianity, as any other of the 
numerous sects that unhappily divide that beautiful 
religion into schisms; any fresh dogma introduced by 
strangers might destroy the union of the Abyssinian 
Church, and would be not only a source of annoyance 
to the priesthood, but would most probably influence 
them and the king against all Europeans. 

The blacksmith assured me that the special mission 
upon which he was employed was the conversion of the 
Abyssinian Jews. I suggested that we had a few Jews in 
England, that might offer a fair held for an experiment at 
home, before we commenced at so distant a country as 
Abyssinia; but I could not persuade the blacksmith, 
whose head was as hard as his anvil ; he had fully 
persuaded himself that the word of God (according to 
his own translation of it) was the hammer with which, 
scion son metier, he was to drive his views of the truth 
into the thick skulls of the people. If he could twist iron, 



342 THE MISSIONARIES' MEDICINE CHEST, [chap. xx. 

and hammer a ploughstiare into a sword, or reverse the 
form, why should he be unable to effect a change in their 
opinions ? It was perfectly useless to continue the argu- 
ment ; but I prophesied trouble, as the king was already 
discontented, and an influx of missionaries would not 
improve his humour. I advised him to stick to his 
trade, which would obtain for him far more respect than 
preaching. He replied, that ''the word of God must be 
preached in all countries ; that the Apostle Paul had 
encountered dangers and difficulties, but, nevertheless, he 
preached to, and converted the heathen," &c. 

Whenever I have met an exceedingly ignorant mis- 
sionary, he has invariably compared himself to the Apostle 
Paul. In half an hour I found, that I was conversing 
with St. Paul in the person of the blacksmith. Whether 
this excellent apostle is among the captives in Abyssinia 
at the present moment, I do not know ; but, if so, their 
memory of the Bible will be continally refreshed by quota- 
tions, which fly from the tongue of the smith like sparks 
from his anvil. His companion was very ill, and in- 
capable of moving. I went to see the poor fellow upon 
several occasions, and found him suffering from dysentery 
and diseased liver. These excellent but misguided people 
had a first-rate medicine chest, filled with useful drugs and 
deadly poisons, that had been provided for them cheaply, 
by the agent for their society at Cairo, who had purchased 
the stock in trade of a defunct doctor. This had been 
given to the missionaries, together with the caution that 
many of the bottles were not labelled, and that some con- 
tained poison. Thus provided with a medicine chest that 
they did not comprehend, and with a number of Bibles 
printed in the Tigre language which they did not' under- 
stand, they were prepared to convert the Jews, who could 
not read. The Bibles were to be distributed as the word 
of God, like " seed thrown upon the wayside ; " and the 
medicines, I trust, were to be kept locked up in the chest, 
as their distribution might have been fatal to the poor 
Jews. These worthy and well-meaning missionaries were 
prepared to operate mentally and physically upon the 
Abyssinians, to open their minds as well as their bowels ; 



CHAP. XX.] JEMiMJ—SUFJK OF THE TOKROORIS. 343 

but as their own (not their minds) were out of order, 
I w^as obliged to assist them by an examination of their 
medicine-chest, which they had regarded with such dread 
and suspicion tliat, although dangerously ill, they had not 
dared to attempt a dose. This medicine-chest accom- 
panied them like a pet dog suspected of hydrophobia, 
which they did not like to part with, and were yet afraid 
to touch. I labelled the poisons, and weighed out some 
doses, that in a few days considerably relieved them ; at 
the same time I advised the missionaries to move to a 
healthier locality, and to avoid the putrid water. 

On the day following our arrival, I paid a visit to the 
Sheik of Gallabat — Jemma. He was ill, as w^ere most 
people. They were too much accustomed to the use of the 
filthy water to trouble themselves about a pure supply; 
thus a frightful amount of sickness w^as prevalent among 
all classes. 

The Sheik Jemma w^as a Tokroori; and as these 
people hate the Turks or Egyptians, although fanatical 
Mussulmans, he was exceedingly cold when he read my 
firman, that I had produced as a passport. He replied to 
my demand for assistance in men and camels, that " this 
was Abyssinia, and the firman of the Viceroy of Egypt was 
a bad introduction, as the Egyptians forced them to pay 
tribute at the point of the bayonet, although they had no 
right to enter this country;" they paid taxes willingly to 
the King of Abyssinia, as he had a right to exact them. I 
explained that I was an Englishman, and no Turk, but 
that, as I had travelled through the dominions of the 
Viceroy, I had been favoured with the sign-manual of his 
Excellency Said Pasha, and I narrated in a few words the 
object of our expedition. He paid very little attention, 
and merely asked me if I could send him some goat's milk, 
as he was very ill. 1 was astonished at such a request, as 
there were great numbers of these animals in the neigh- 
bourhood ; but he explained that his doctor had ordered 
him to drink the milk of a black goat, and he had heard 
that I had two of that colour. I promised him a supply, 
and he agreed to assist me in engaging camels and fresh 
men, as I had formerly arranged with my people that their 



344 THE EGYPTIANS' ATTACK UPON GALLABAT. [ch. xx. 

term of service should expire upon our arrival at GalJa- 
bat or Metemma. The latter name merely signifies " the 
capital : " as many places are designated by the same word, 
it creates much confusion. 

The Sheik Jemma was the successor of Hamed, who 
formerly governed the Tokrooris. The Egyptians had cap- 
tured Hamed three years previously, during which time he 
had been imprisoned in Cairo. Upon his release, he wrote 
to Jemma (who had governed pro tempore) to prepare for 
his arrival ; but Jemma had no intention of vacating his 
seat, and he replied by an impertinent message. Hamed 
immediately applied to the Governor- General of the Soudan 
for assistance, declaring hiinself to be the subject of Eg}^t. 
Having obtained a powerful force, he advanced upon Gal- 
labat, and attacked Jemma, who came out to meet him. 
This happened about three months before our arrival. In 
a pitched battle, the Tokrooris were defeated with great 
loss, and Jemma, with the greater portion of the population, 
sought the assistance of Theodore, the king of Abyssinia. 
Theodore summoned the rival chiefs before him, and de- 
cided that, as Hamed had appealed to Egypt for assistance, 
he should lose his seat, and remain a prisoner in Abyssinia. 
Accordingly, Jemma was declared to be the governor of 
the town of Gallabat, and the sheik over all Tokrooris. 

The Tokrooris are natives of Darfur, who were converted 
to Mahometanism after the conquest of Northern Africa 
by the Arabs. They are governed by a sultan in their own 
country, who strictly prohibits the entrance of white men ; 
thus Darfur remains impenetrable to civilization. That 
country is extremely arid and unfruitful ; thus, as the 
pilgrims journeyed towards Mecca from their own inhos- 
pitable soil, they passed through a land flowing with milk 
and honey, with excellent pasturage and fertile soil, in the 
district of GaJlabat. As first settlements of men have 
always been caused by some local attraction and advan- 
tage, so the Tokroori pilgrims, on their return from Mecca, 
originally rested from the fatigues of their journey in the 
neighbourhood of Gallabat, as a country preferable to their 
own. The establishment of a few settlers formed a nucleus, 
and, as successive pilgrimages to Mecca were annually 



CHAP. XX.] INDUSTRY OF THE TOKROORIS. 345 

undertaken from Darfiir, the colony rapidly increased by 
the settlement of the returned pilgrims. Thus commenced 
the establishment of a new tribe upon foreign soil, and, as 
the numbers of settlers increased to an important amount, 
permission was granted by the King of Abyssinia that they 
should occupy this portion of his territory, upon payment 
of taxes as his subjects. The Tokrooris are a fine, powerful 
race, exceedingly black, and of the negro type, but differing 
from all negroes that I have hitherto known, as they are 
particularly industrious. They are great drunkards, very 
quarrelsome, and are bad servants, as, although they will 
work hard for themselves, they will do as little as they can 
for their master. They are seldom unemployed ; and, while 
the Arab may be seen lazily stretched under the shade of 
a tree, the Tekroori will be spinning cotton, or working at 
something that will earn a few piastres. Even during the 
march, I have frequently seen my men gather the cotton 
from some deserted bush, and immediately improvise a 
spindle, by sticking a reed through a piece of camel-dung, 
with which they would spin the wool into thread, as they 
walked with the caravan. My Tokrooris had never been 
idle during the time they had been in my service, but they 
were at work in the camp during every spare minute, 
either employed in making sandals from elephant's or 
buffalo's hide, or whips and bracelets from the rhinoceros' 
skin, which tbey cleverly polished. Upon our arrival at 
Gallabat, they had at least a camel-load of all kinds of 
articles they had manufactured. On the following morning 
I found them sitting in the market-place, having estab- 
lished stalls, at which they were selling all the various 
trophies of their expedition — fat, hides, whips, sandals, 
bracelets, &c. 

The district inhabited by the Tokrooris is about forty 
miles in length, including a population of about twenty 
thousand. Throughout the country, they have cultivated 
cotton to a considerable extent, notwithstanding the double 
taxes enforced by both Abyssinians and Egyptians, and 
their gardens are kept with extreme neatness. Although 
of the negro type, the Tokrooris have not the flat nose ; the 
lips are full, but not to be compared with those of the 



346 WEAPONS OF THE TOKROORIS. [chap. xx. 

negroes of West Africa; neither is the jaw prognathous. 
The men are extremely independent in manner. They are 
armed with lances of various patterns ; their favourite 
weapon is a horrible instrument barbed with a diabolical 
intention, as it can neither be withdrawn nor pushed com- 
pletely through the body, but, if once in the flesh, there it 
must remain. This is called the chimbane ; it is usually 
carried with two other lances with plain heads. The 
Tokrooris despise shields ; therefore, in spite of their 
superior personal strength, they would be no match for 
the Arabs. 

There is a curious weapon, the trombash, that is used by 
these people, somewhat resembling the Australian boome- 
rang ; it is a piece of flat, hard wood, about two feet in 
length, the end of which turns sharply at an angle of 
about 30°. They throw this with great dexterity, and 
inflifct severe wounds with the hard and sharp edge ; but, 
unlike the boomerang, the weapon does not return to the 
thrower. 

The women are very powerful, but exceedingly plain. 
They are good workers, and may be constantly seen either 
spiuning or weaving; they keep their huts remarkably 
clean, and are rarely idle. 

The greater portion of the cotton exhibited in the market 
of Gallabat is produced by the Tokrooris ; it is uncleaned, 
and simply packed in mat bales of a hundred pounds 
weight, which at that date (April 1862) sold for one 
dollar each. 

Much might be done to improve these peculiar people. 
Were the frontiers of Abyssinia positively determined, and 
security insured to the new settlers, the whole of that mag- 
nificent country through which we had travelled between 
the Settite and Gallabat might be peopled and cultivated. 
In many countries, both soil and climate may be favourable 
for the cultivation of cotton ; but such natural advantages 
may be neutralized either by the absence of population, or 
by the indolence of the natives. The Tokroori is a most 
industrious labourer; and, were he assured of protection 
and moderate taxation, he would quickly change the cha- 
racter of these fertile lands, that are now uninhabited. 



CHAP. XX.] HONEY WINE OF ABYSSINIA. 347 

except by wild animals. If the emigration of Tokrooris 
from Darfur were encouraged, and advantages offered to 
settlers, by grants of land for a short term exempt from 
taxation, at a future time to bear a certain rate per acre, a 
multitude of emigrants would quit their own inhospitable 
country, and would people the beautiful waste lands of the 
Settite and the Salaam. These countries would produce an 
important supply of cotton, that might be delivered at 
Souakim at an exceedingly low rate, and find a market in 
England, l^ot only would the Tokrooris benefit by the 
change, but, should it be decided that the Abyssinian fron- 
tier, instead of extending to the Atbara river, should be 
confined to the ridge of the gTeat mountain chain, the 
revenues of Upper Egypt might be enormously increased 
by the establishment of a Tokroori colony, as proposed. 

I paid all my Tokrooris their wages, and I gave them 
an entertainment after their own taste, by purchasing 
several enormous bowls of honey wine. The Abyssinians 
are celebrated for this drink, which is known as "tetch." 
It is made of various strengths ; that of good quality should 
contain, in ten parts, two of honey and eight of water ; 
but, for a light wine, one of honey and nine of water is 
very agTceable. There is a plant of an intoxicating quality 
known by the Abyssinians as "jershooa," the leaves of 
which are added to the tetch while in a state of fermen- 
tation ; a strong infusion of these leaves will render the 
tetch exceedingly heady, but without this admixture the 
honey wine is by no means powerful. In our subsequent 
journey in Central Africa, I frequently made the tetch by 
a mixture of honey and water, flavoured with wild thyme 
and powdered ginger ; fermentation was quickly produced 
by the addition of yeast from the native beer, and the wine, 
after six or eight days, became excellent, but never very 
strong, as we could not procure the leaves of the jershooa. 

My Arabs and Tokrooris enjoyed themselves amazingly, 
and until late at night they were playing rababas (guitars) 
and howling in thorough happiness ; but on the following 
morning at sunrise I was disturbed by Wat Gamma, who 
complained that during the night some person had stolen 
three dollars, that had for some months been carefully 



348 ALL DRUNK LAST NIGHT. [chap. xx. 

sewn up in his clothes ; he exhibited the garment that 
bore the iinmistakeable impression of the dollars, and the 
freshly- cut ends of the thread proved that it had been 
ripped open very recently. Of course I was magistrate, 
and in all cases I was guided by my own code of laws, 
being at some thousand miles from an Act of Parliament. 

Wat Gamma had no suspicion of any person in par- 
ticular, but his money had evidently been stolen. 

"Who was drunk last night?" I inquired. "We were 
all drunk," replied the plaintiff. " Who was very drunk, 
and who was the least drunk ? " I inquired. This entailed 
a discussion among the people who had now assembled. 
It appeared that most of them had been " very drunk ;" 
others only a little drunk ; and one old white-headed Arab 
camel-driver had been perfectly sober, as he never drank 
anything but water. This was old Mini, a splendid speci- 
men of a fine patriarchal Arab ; he declared that he had 
not even joined the party. Wat Gamma had left his 
garment rolled up in the mat upon which he usually 
slept ; this was in the same spot where the camel-drivers 
lived, and where old Mini declared he was fast asleep 
during the drinking bout. 

I had my suspicions, but to express them would have 
defeated the chance of discovery. I therefore adopted my 
usual rule in cases of theft. I counted my people : nine 
camel-men, five Tokrooris, Taher Noor, and Bacheet ; in 
all sixteen, without Wat Gamma. Three dollars were 
sixty piastres, — sixty divided by sixteen equalled three 
piastres and thirty paras. Thus I condemned the whole 
party to make up the loss, by each paying his share of the 
amount stolen, unless the thief could be discovered. 

This plan was generally successful, as the thief was the 
only man contented with the arrangement. Every innocent 
man became a detective, as he was determined not to pay 
a fine for another's theft. A tremendous row took place, 
every one was talking and no one listening, and the crowd 
went away from my court of justice, determined to search 
the affair to the bottom. 

In about half an hour they aU returned, with the ex- 
ception of old Mini ; they had searched everywhere, and 



CHAP. XX.] FENUSES OF THE GALEA. 349 

had found three dollars concealed in the stuffing of a 
camel's saddle, that belonged to Mini. He was the sober 
man, who had been asleep while the others were drinking. 
I considered the case proved ; and Mini, having confessed, 
requested that I would flog him rather than deliver him to 
the Tokroori authorities, who would imprison him and 
take away his camel. I told him that I would not disgrace 
his tribe by flogging one of their oldest men, but that I 
should take him before the Sheik of Gallabat, and fine 
him the amount that he had stolen. This I immediately 
did, and Mini handed over to Jemma, with reluctance, 
three dollars for the poor-box of Gallabat, or the private 
pocket of the sheik, as the case may be. 

On my return to camp I visited the establishments of 
the various slave merchants : these were arranged under 
large tents formed of matting, and contained many young 
girls of extreme beauty, ranging from nine to seventeen 
years of age. These lovely captives, of a rich brown tint, 
with delicately-formed features, and eyes like those of the 
gazelle, w^ere natives of the Galla, on the borders of Abys- 
sinia, from which country they were brought by the 
Abyssinian traders to be sold for the Turkish harems. 
Although beautiful, these girls are useless for hard labour ; 
they quickly fade away and die unless kindly treated. 
They are the Venuses of that country, and not only are 
their faces and figures perfection, but they become ex- 
tremely attached to those who show them kindness, and 
they make good and faithful wives. There is something 
peculiarly captivating in the natural grace and softness 
of these young beauties, whose hearts quickly respond to 
those warmer feelings of love that are seldom known 
among the sterner and coarser tribes. Their forms are 
peculiarly elegant and gracefid — the hands and feet are 
exquisitely delicate; the nose is generally slightly aquiline, 
the nostrils large and finely shaped ; the hair is black and 
glossy, reaching to about the middle of the back, but 
rather coarse in texture. These girls, although natives 
of Galla, invariably call themselves Abyssinians, and are 
generally known under that denomination. They are 
exceedingly proud and high-spirited, and are remarkably 



350 A ROW JFITH THE TOKROORIS. [chap. xx. 

quick at learning. At Khartoum, several of the Europeans 
of high standing have married these charming ladies, who 
have invariably rewarded their husbands by great affec- 
tion and devotion. The price of one of these beauties of 
nature at Gallabat was from twenty-five to forty dollars. 

On the 24th April we were refreshed by a shower of 
rain, and in a few days the grass sprang from the ground 
several inches high. There was an unpleasant dampness 
in the air, and, although the rainy season would not com- 
mence until June, showers would occasionally fall among 
the mountains throughout the month of May. I accord- 
ingly purchased a number of large tanned ox-hides, that 
are rendered waterproof by a preparation with milk. 
These skins cost the trifling sum of nine piastres each 
(not two shillings), and were subsequently of great value 
during our White Nile expedition, as coverlets during the 
night's bivouac, &c. 

The horse-fair was a disappointment. At this season 
the entire country in the neighbourhood of Gallabat was 
subject to an epidemic, fatal to these animals ; therefore 
there were no good horses present. I had nothing to 
detain me at this place, after having procured fresh 
camels, therefore I paid all my people, and we parted 
excellent friends. To the Arabs and Tokrooris I gave all 
the hides of rhinoceros, elephants, &c. that I did not 
require, and, with our loads considerably lightened, we 
started from Gallabat, 12.30 p.m., 28th April, 1862, and 
marched due west towards the river Eahad. The country 
was hilly and wooded, the rocks were generally sandstone, 
and after a march of three hours we halted at a Tolcroori 
village. I never witnessed more unprovoked insolence 
than was exhibited by these people. They considered me 
to be a Turk, to whom their natural hatred had been in- 
creased by the chastisement they had lately received from 
the Egyptians. It was in vain that my two lads, Wat 
Gamma and Bacheet, assured them that I was an English- 
man : they had never heard of such a country as England ; 
in their opinion, a white man must be a Turk. ]Sl"ot con- 
tented with refusing all supplies, they assembled in large 
numbers and commenced a quarrel with my men, several 



CHAP. XX.] / SETTLE THE TOKROORI CHylMPION. 351 

of whom were Tokrooris that I had hired to accompany 
us to Khartoum. These men, being newly engaged and 
entirely strange, were of little service ; but, having joined 
in the quarrel like true Tokrooris, who are always ready 
for a row, the altercation grew so hot that it became rather 
serious. The natives determined that we should not 
remain in their village, and, having expressed a threat to 
turn us out, they assembled around us in a large crowd 
with their lances and trombashes. My wife was sitting 
by me upon an angarep, when the people closed around 
my men, and one very tall specimen of a Tokroori came 
forward, and, snatchim? a knife from its sheath that was 
worn upon the arm of my servant, he challenged him to 
fight. As Tokrooris are always more or less under the 
influence of drink, their fights are generally the effect of 
some sudden impulse. It was necessary to do something, 
as the crowd were determined upon a row ; this was now 
commenced by their leader, who was eyeing me from head 
to foot with the most determined insolence, holding the 
knife in his hand that he had taken from my man. I 
therefore rose quietly from my seat, and, approaching him 
to within a convenient distance for striking, if necessary, 
I begged him very politely to leave my people to them- 
selves, as we should depart on the following morning. He 
replied with great impertinence, and insisted upon fighting 
one or all of our party. I accommodated him without a 
moment's delay, as, stepping half a pace backwards, I 
came in with a left and right as fast as a rapid double-hit 
could be delivered, with both blows upon his impudent 
mouth. In an instant he was on his back, with his heels 
in the air ; and, as I prepared to operate upon his backer, 
or upon any bystander who might have a ■ 'penchant for 
fighting, the crowd gave way, and immediately devoted 
themselves to their companion, wlio lay upon the ground 
in stupid astonishment, with his fingers down his throat 
searching for a tooth ; his eyes were fixed upon my hands 
to discover the weapon with which he had been wounded. 
His friends began to wipe the blood from his face and 
clothes, and at this juncture the sheik of the vilLage 
appeared for the first time. 



352 A REAL FLAT-NOSED AFRICAN NIGGER, [ch. xx. 

To my astonishment lie was extremely civil ; a sudden 
reaction had taken place, the Tokrooris had had their row, 
and were apparently satisfied. The sheik begged me not 
to kill his people by hitting them, "as they were mere 
chickens, who would at once die if I were to strike them 
with my fist." I begged him to keep his " chickens " in 
better order, and at once to order them away from our 
immediate neighbourhood. In a few minutes the sheik 
drove the crowd away, who picked up their man and led 
him off. The sheik then begged us to accept a hut for the 
night, and he paid us every attention. 

On the following morning, we left shortly after sunrise ; 
the natives very civilly assisted to load our camels, and 
among the most active was my fighting friend of yester- 
day, who, with his nose and mouth all swollen into one, 
had been rapidly converted from a well-featured Tokroori 
into a real thick-lipped, flat-nosed African nigger, with 
prognathous jaw, that would have delighted the Ethno- 
logical Society. 

"April 29. — It rained hard during the night. Oar 
course was due west, along the banks of a hor, from which 
the natives procure water by sinking wells about twelve 
feet deep in the sandy bed, which is dry in the hot season. 
Throughout this country the water is bad. At 11 A.M. we 
reached Eoumele ; this is the last village between Gallabat 
and the river Eahad. The natives say that there is no 
water on the road, and their accounts of the distance are 
so vague and contradictory that I cannot rely upon the 
information. 

" I could procure only one water-skin, and none of my 
old stock were serviceable ; I therefore arranged to water 
all the animals, and push on throughout the night, by 
which plan I hoped to arrive by a forced march at the 
Eahad on the following morning, without exhausting both 
men and beasts by a long journey through an unknown 
distance in the heat of the sun. Hardly were the horses 
watered at a well in the dry bed of the stream, when 
Aggahr was taken ill with inflammation. I left two men 
to attend upon him, with orders to bring him on if better 
on the following day : we started on our journey, but we 



CHAP. XX.] FORCED MARCH TO THE RAHAB. 353 

had not proceeded a quarter of a mile when Gazelle, that 
I was riding, was also seized with illness, and fell down ; 
with the greatest difficulty I led the horse back again to 
the village. My good old hunter Aggahr died in great 
agony a few minutes after our return, and Gazelle died 
during the night ; the natives declared this to be the horse 
sickness that was annually prevalent at this season. The 
disease appeared to be inflammation of the bowels, which 
I attributed to the sudden change of food ; for months past 
they had lived principally upon dry grass, but within the 
past few days they had greedily eaten the young herbage 
that had appeared after a few showers; with this, may 
have been poisonous plants that they had swallowed 
unawares. We had now only one horse, Tetel, that was 
ridden by my wife; I therefore determined to start on 
foot on the following morning, and to set the pace at four 
miles an hour, so as to reach the Eahad by a forced march 
in one rapid stretch, and thus to eke out our scanty supply 
<jf water. Accordingly we started, and marched at that 
rate for ten hours, including a halt when half-way, to rest 
for one hour and a half. Throughout the distance, the 
country was a dead flat of the usual rich soil, covered with 
mimosa forest. We marched thirty- four miles, steering 
due west for a distant hill, which in the morning had been 
a faint blue streak upon the horizon. 

" Upon our arrival at the hill, we found that the river 
was some miles beyond, while a fine rugged mountain that 
we had seen for two days previous rose about fifteen miles 
south of this point, and formed an unmistakeable land- 
mark ; the name of this mountain is Hallowa. We had 
marched with such rapidity across this stretch of thirty- 
four miles, that our men were completely exhausted from 
thirst, as they had foolishly drunk their share of water at 
the middle of the journey, instead of reserving it for the 
moment of distress. Upon arrival at the Eahad they 
rushed down tlie steep bank, and plunged into the clear 
water of the river. 

" The Eahad does not exceed eighty or ninety yards in 
breadth. The rain that had recently fallen in the moun- 
tain had sent a considerable stream down the hitherto dry 

A A 



354 THE RIVER RABAT). [chap. xxi. 

bed, altliOTigh tlie bottom was not entirely covered. By 
dead reckoning, this point of the river is fifty-five miles 
due west from Gallabat or Metemma; throughout this 
distance we had seen no game, neither the tracks of any 
animals except giraffes. We were rather hard up for 
provisions, therefore I took my rod, and tried for a fish in 
a deep pool below the spot where we had pitched the tent. 
I only had one run, but I fortunately landed a handsome 
little baggar about twelve pounds weight, which afforded 
us a good dinner. The river Binder is between fifty and 
sixty miles from the Eahad at this point, but towards the 
north the two rivers approximate closely, and keep a 
course almost parallel. The banks of the Eahad are in 
many places perpendicular, and are about forty-five feet 
above the bed. This river flows through rich alluvial 
soil ; the country is a vast level plane, with so trifling 
a fall that the current of the river is gentle ; the course is 
extremely circuitous, and although, when bank full, the 
Eahad possesses a considerable volume, it is very inferior 
as a JSTile tributary to any river that I have visited to the 
east of Gallabat." 



CHAPTEE XXL 

FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY ON THE BANKS OF 
THE RAHAD. 

We daily followed the banks of the Eahad, the monotony 
of which I will not inflict upon the public. This country 
was a vast tract of wonderfully fertile prairie, that nearly 
formed an island, surrounded by the Eahad, Blue Nile, 
Great Nile, and Atbara ; it was peopled by various tribes 
of Arabs, who cultivated a considerable extent upon the 
banks of the Eahad, which for upwards of a hundred miles 
to the north were bordered with villages at short intervals. 
Cotton and tobacco were produced largely, and we daily 
met droves of camels laden with these goods, en route 



CHAP. xxi.J JOURNEr ALONG THE RAH AD. 355 

for the Abyssinian market. We liad now fairly quitted 
Abyssinian territory, and upon our arrival at the Eahad 
we were upon the soil of Upper Egypt. T was much 
struck with the extraordinary size and condition of the 
cattle. Corn (dhurra) was so plentiful that it was to be 
purchased in any quantity for eight piastres the rachel, or 
about Is. 8d for 500 pounds ; pumpkins were in great 
quantities, with a description of gourd with an exceedingly 
strong shell, which is grown especially for bowls and other 
utensils; camel-loads of these gourd-basins packed in 
conical crates were also journeying on the road towards 
Gallabat. Throuo'hout the course of the Rahad the banks 
are high, and, when full, the river would average forty feet 
in depth, with a gentle stream, the course free from rocks 
and shoals, and admirably adapted for small steamers. 

The entire country would be a mine of wealth were it 
planted with cotton, which could be transported by camels 
to Katariff, and thence direct to Souakim, We travelled 
for upwards of a liundred miles along the river, through 
the unvarying scene of fiat alluvial soil ; the south bank 
was generally covered with low jungle. The Arabs were 
always civil, and formed a marked contrast to the Tok- 
rooris ; they were mostly of the Roofar tribe. Although 
there had been a considerable volume of water in the river 
at the point where we had first met it, the bed was per- 
fectly dry about fifty miles farther north, proving the great 
power of absorption by the sand. The Arabs obtained 
water from deep pools in the river, similar to those in the 
Atbara, but on a small scale, of not sufficient importance 
to contain hippopotami, which at this season retired to the 
river Binder. Wherever we slept we were besieged by 
gaping crowds of Arabs : these people were quite unac- 
customed to strangers, as the route we had chosen along 
the banks of the Rahad was entirely out of the line adopted 
by the native merchants and traders of Khartoum, who 
travelled via Abou Harraz and Katariff to Gallabat. These 
Arabs were, as usual, perfectly wild, and ignorant of every- 
thing that did not immediately concern them. My com- 
pass had always been a source of wonder to the natives, 
and I was asked whether by looking into it I could distin- 

A A 2 



356 ARRIVAL AT SHERREM. [chap. xxi. 

guish the "market days" of tlie different villages. My 
own Tokrooris continually referred to me for information 
on various topics, and, if I declined to reply, tliey in- 
variably begged me to examine my moondera (mirror), as 
they termed the compass, and see what it would say. This 
country swarmed with Arabs, and abounded in supplies : 
superb fat oxen were seven dollars each ; large fowls were 
a penny ; and eggs were at the rate of nine for a penny 
farthing. 

We arrived at a large village, Sherrem, on May 11, 
having marched 118 miles in a straight line along the 
course of the Eahad. The heat was extreme, but I had 
become so thoroughly accustomed to the sun that I did not 
feel it so much as my men, whose heads were covered with 
a thin cap of cotton (the tageea). My camel-men had 
expected to find their families at a village that we had 
passed about six miles from Sherrem, and they had been 
rejoicing in anticipation, but on arrival we found it 
deserted, — "family out of town;" the men were quite 
dejected ; but upon arrival at Sherrem they found all their 
people, who had migrated for water, as the river was dry. 
We waited at Sherrem for a couple of days to rest the 
men, whose feet were much swollen with marching on the 
burning soil. Although frequent showers had fallen at 
Gallabat, we had quickly entered the dry country upon 
steering north, w^here neither dew nor rain had moistened 
the ground for many months. The country was treeless 
on the north bank of the Eahad, and the rich alluvial 
soil was free from a single stone or pebble for many 
miles. Although for 118 miles we had travelled along 
the course of the Eahad, throughout this distance only one 
small brook furrowed the level surface and added its 
waters during the rainy season to the river ; the earth ab- 
sorbed the entire rainfall. Our camels were nearly driven 
mad by the flies which swarmed throughout the fertile 
districts. 

On the 15th of May we arrived at Kook, a small village 
on the banks of the Eahad, and on the following morning 
we started to the west for the river Dinder. The country 
was the usual rich soil, but covered with high grass and 



CHAP. XXI.] ARRIVAL AT THE BINDER. 357 

bush ; it was uniRhabited, except by wandering Arabs and 
their flocks, that mic^rate at the commencement of the 
rainy season, when this land becomes a mere swamp, and 
swarms with the seroot fly. At 6.30 p.m. we halted, and 
slept on the road. This was the main route to Sennaar, 
from which place strings of camels were passing to the 
Rahad, to purchase corn. On the 16th of May, we started 
by moonlight at 4.30 A.M. due west, and at 7.30 A.M. we 
arrived at the river Dinder, which, at this point, was 
eighteen miles from the village of Kook, on the Rahad. 

We joined a camp of the Kunana Arabs, who at this 
season throng the banks of the Dinder. This river is 
similar in character to the Rahad, but larger : the average 
breadth is about a hundred and ten yards : the banks are 
about fifty feet high, and the immediate vicinity is covered 
with thick jungle of nabbuk and thorny acacias, with a 
great quantity of the Acacia Arahica, that produces the 
^arra, already described as valuable for tanning leather. 
I made ink with this fruit, pounded and boiled, to 
which I added a few rusty nails, and allowed it to 
stand for about twenty-four hours. The Dinder was 
exceedingly deep in many places, although in others the 
bed was dry, with the exception of a most trifling stream 
that flowed through a narrow channel in the sand, about 
an inch in depth. The Arabs assured me that the croco- 
diles in this river were more dangerous than in any other, 
and their flocks of goats and slieep were attended by a 
great number of boys, to prevent the animals from 
descending to the water to drink, except in such places 
as had been prepared for them by digging small holes in 
the sand. I saw many of these creatures, of very large 
size; and, as I strolled along the banks of the river, I 
found a herd of hippopotami, of which I shot two, to the 
great delight of my people, who had been much dis- 
appointed at the absence of game throughout our journey 
from Gallabat. We had travelled upwards of 200 miles 
without having seen so much as a gazelle, neither had we 
passed any tracks of large game, except, upon one occa- 
sion, those of a few giraffes. T had been told that the 
Dinder country was rich in game, but, at this season, it 



358 ACTIVITY OF THE AFRICAN ELEPHANT, [ch. xxi. 

was swarming witli Arabs, and was so mnch disturbed 
that everything had left the conntry, and the elephants 
merely drank during the night, and retreated to distant 
and impenetrable jungles. At night we heard a lion roar, 
but this, instead of being our constant nightingale, as 
upon the Settite river, was now an uncommon sound. 
The maneless lion is found on the banks of the Dinder ; 
all that I saw, in the shape of game, in the neighbour- 
hood of that river and the Eahad, were a few hippopotami 
and crocodiles. The stream of the Dinder is obstructed 
with many snags and trunks of fallen trees that would be 
serious obstacles to rapid navigation : these are the large 
stems of the soont {Acacia Arahica), that, growing close 
to the edge, have fallen into the river when the banks 
have given way. I was astonished at the absence of 
elephants in such favourable ground ; for some miles 
I walked along the margin of the river without) seeing 
a track of any date. Throughout this country, these 
animals are so continually hunted that they have become 
exceedingly wary, and there can be little doubt that 
their numbers are much reduced. Even in the beautiful 
shooting country comprised between the river Gash and 
Gallabat, although we had excellent sport, I had been 
disappointed at the number of elephants, which I had 
expected to find in herds of many hundreds, instead of 
forty or fifty, which was the largest number that I had 
seen together. The habits of all animals generally 
depend upon the nature of the localities they inhabit. 
Thus, as these countries were subject to long drought 
and scarcity of water, the elephants were, in some places, 
contented with drinking every alternate day. Where 
they were much hunted by the aggageers, they would 
seldom drink twice consecutively in the same river ; but, 
after a long draught in the Settite, they would march from 
twenty-five to thirty miles, and remain for a day between 
that river an^ the Mareb or Gash, to which they would 
hurry on the following night. At other times, these wily 
animals would drink in the Settite, and retire to the 
south ; feeding upon Mek Mmmur's corn-fields, they 
would hurry forward to the river Salaam, about thirty 



CHAP. XXI.] DISTINCTION- OF SPECIES. 359 

miles distant, and from thence, in a similar manner, either 
to the Atbara on one side, or into the Abyssinian moun- 
tains, where, at all times, they could procure a supply of 
water. I have frequently discovered fresh grains of 
dhurra in their dung, at a great distance from the nearest 
corn-field ; when the rapid digestion of the elephant is 
considered, it must be allowed that the fresh dung found 
in the morning bore witness to the theft of corn during 
the past night ; thus the elephant had marched many 
miles after feeding. In the " Rifle and Hound in Ceylon," 
published in 1854, I gave a detailed description of the 
elephants of that country, which, although peculiar in 
the general absence of tusks, are the same as the Indian 
species. 

Although the elephant is found throughout many 
countries, extending over an enormous area, there are 
only two species at present in existence, — the Indian and 
African ; these are totally different in their habits, and 
are distinguished by peculiarities of form. The most 
striking difference is in the shape of the head and spine. 
The head of the Indian species is perfectly distinct ; the 
forehead, when held in the natural position of inaction, is 
perpendicular ; and above the slight convexity at the root 
of the trunk there is a depression, in shape like a herald's 
shield : a bullet in the lower portion of that shield would 
reach the brain in a direct line. The head of the African 
elephant is completely convex from the commencement 
of the trunk to the back of the skull, and the brain is 
situated much lower than in that of the Indian species; 
the bone is of a denser quality, and the cases for the 
reception of the tusks are so closely parallel, that there 
is barely room for a bullet to find a chance of penetrating 
to the brain ; it must be delivered in the exact centre, 
and extremely low, in the very root of the trunk ; even 
then it will frequently pass above the brain, as the animal 
generally carries his head high, and thrown slightly back. 
The teeth of the African elephant differ materially from 
those of the Indian, by containing a lesser number of 
laminae or plates, the surfaces of which, instead of 
exhibiting straight and parallel Lines like those of the 



360 AFRICAN AND INDIAN ELEPHANTS. [ch. xxi- 

Indian, are shaped in slight curves, which, increase the 
power of grinding. The ears of the African species are 
enormous, and when thrown back they completely cover 
the shoulders ; they are also entirely different in shape 
from those of the Indian species. When an African hull 
elepliant advances in full charge with his ears cocked, his 
head measures about fourteen feet from the tip of one ear 
to that of the other, in a direct line across the forehead. 
I have frequently cut off the ear to form a mat, upon 
which I have slept beneath the shade of a tree, wliile my 
people divided the animal. 

The back of the Indian elephant is exceedingly convex ; 
that of the African is exactly the reverse, and the con- 
cavity behind the shoulders is succeeded by a peculiarity 
in the sudden rise of the spine above the hips. The two 
species are not only distinct in certain peculiarities of 
form, but they differ in their habits. The Indian elephant 
dislikes the sun, and invariably retreats to thick shady 
forests at sunrise ; but I have constantly found the African 
species enjoying themselves in the burning sun in the 
hottest hours of the day, among plains of withered grass, 
many miles from a jungle. The African is more active 
than the Indian, and not only is faster in his movements, 
but is more capable of enduring long marches, as proved 
by the great distances through which it travels to seek its 
food in the native's corn-fields. In all countries, the bulls 
are fiercer than the females. I cannot see much difference 
in character between the Indian and the African species ; 
it is the fashion for some people to assert that the elephant 
is an innocent and harmless creature, that, like the giraffe 
it is almost a sin to destroy. I can only say that, during 
eight years' experience in Cejdon, and nearly five years' in 
Africa, I have found that elephants are the most formidable 
animals with which a sportsman has to contend. The 
African species is far more dangerous than the Indian, 
as the forehead shot can never be trusted; therefore the 
hunter must await the charge with a conviction that his 
bullet will fail to kill. 

The African elephant is about a foot higher than the 
average of the Indian species. The bulls of the former 



CHAP. XXL] DESTRUCTION OF FORESTS. \^Ql 

are about ten feet six inclies at the shoulder ; the females 
are between nine feet and nine feet six. Of course there 
are many bulls that exceed this height, and I have seen 
some few of both species that might equal twelve feet, 
but those are the exceptional Goliaths. 

The tusks of elephants vary considerably, and there 
appears to be no rule to determine a reason for their 
size and quality. In Abyssinia and Taka, a single tusk 
of a bull -elephant seldom exceeds forty pounds, nor do 
they average more than twenty-five, but in Central Africa 
they average about forty, and I have seen them upwards 
of one hundred and fifty pounds. The largest that I have 
had the good fortune to bag was eighty pounds ; the 
fellow-tusk was slightly below seventy. Elephants in- 
variably use one tusk in preference, as we use the right 
hand ; thus it is difiicult to obtain an exact pair, as the 
Hadam (or servant), as the Arabs call the working tusk, 
is generally much worn. The African elephant is a more 
decided tree-feeder than the Indian, and the destruction 
committed by a large herd of such animals when feeding 
in a mimosa forest is extraordinary ; they deliberately 
march forward, and uproot or break down every tree that 
excites their appetite. The mimosas are generally from 
sixteen to twenty feet high, and, having no tap-root, they 
are easily overturned by the tusks of the elephants, which 
are driven like crowbars beneath the roots, and used as 
levers, in which rough labour they are frequently broken. 
Upon the overthrow of a tree, the elephants eat the roots 
and leaves, and strip the bark from the branches by 
grasping them with their rough trunks. 

The African elephant is equally docile as the Indian, 
when domesticated, but we have no account of a negro 
tribe that has ever tamed one of these sagacious animals : 
their only maxim is " kill and eat." Although the flesh 
of the elephant is extremely coarse, the foot and trunk 
are excellent, if properly cooked. A hole should be dug 
in the earth, about four feet deep, and two feet six inches 
in diameter, the sides of which should be perpendicular ; 
in this a large fire should be lighted, and kept burning 
for four or five hours with a continual supply of wood, 



362 ELEPHANTS FOOT A LUXURY. [chap. xxt. 

so that the walls become red-hot At the expiration 
of the blaze, the foot should be laid upon the glowing 
embers, and the hole covered closely with thick pieces 
of green wood laid parallel together to form a ceiling ; 
this should be covered with wet grass, and the whole 
plastered with mud, and stamped tightly down to 
retain the heat. Upon the mud, a quantity of earth 
should be heaped, and the oven should not be opened 
for thirty hours, or more. At the expiration of that 
time, the foot will be perfectly baked, and the sole will 
separate like a shoe, and expose a delicate substance 
that, with a little oil and vinegar, together with an allow- 
ance of pepper and salt, is a delicious dish that will feed 
about fifty men. 

The Arabs are particularly fond of elephant's flesh, as 
it is generally fat and juicy. I have frequently used 
the fat of the animal for cooking, but it should be taken 
from the body w^ithout delay ; as, if left for a few hours, 
it partakes of the peculiar smell of the elephant, which 
no amount of boiling will overcome. The boiling of fat 
for preservation requires much care, as it should attain 
so great a heat that a few drops of water thrown 
upon the surface will hiss and evaporate as though 
cast upon molten metal; it should then be strained, 
and, when tolerably cool, be poured into vessels, and 
secured. N"o salt is necessary, provided it is thoroughly 
boiled. When an animal is killed, the flesh should be 
properly dried, before boiling down, otherwise the fat 
will not melt thoroughly, as it will be combined with 
the water contained in the body. The fat should be 
separated as well as possible from the meat ; it should 
then be hung in long strips upon a line and exposed in 
the sun to dry ; when nearly dried, it should be cut into 
pieces of about two inches in length, and placed in a 
large vessel over a brisk fire, and kept constantly stirred. 
As the fat boils out from the meat, the residue should 
be taken out with a pierced ladle ; this, when cool, should 
be carefully preserved in leathern bags. This is called by 
the Arabs " reveet," a supply of which is most valuable, 
as a quantity can be served out to each man during a 



CH. XXI.] FRIJFARATION OF DRIED MEAT. 363 

long marcli when there is no time to halt ; it can be eaten 
without bread, and it is extremely nourishing. With a 
good supply of reveet in store, the traveller need not be 
nervous about his dinner. Dried meat should also be 
kept in large quantities ; the best is that of the giraffe 
and hippopotamus, but there is some care required in 
preparing the first quality. It should be cut from portions 
of the animals as free as possible from sinews, and should 
be arranged in long thin strips of the diameter of about 
an inch and a quarter; these ribbon-like morsels should 
be hung in the shade. When nearly dry, they should 
be taken down, and laid upon a flat rock, upon which 
they should be well beaten with a stone, or club of hard 
wood ; this breaks the fibre ; after which they should be 
hung up and thoroughly dried, care being taken that the 
flesh is not exposed to the sun. If many flies are pre- 
sent, the flesh should be protected by the smoke of fires 
lighted to windward. 

AVhen meat is thus carefully prepared, it can be used 
in various ways, and is exceedingly palatable ; if pounded 
into small pieces like coarse sawdust, it forms an admirable 
material for curry and rice. The Arabs make a first-class 
dish of melach, by mixing a quantity of pounded dried 
meat with a thick porridge of dhurra meal, floating in a 
soup of barmian (waker), with onions, salt, and red peppers ; 
this is an admirable thing if the party is pressed for time 
(if not too hot), as a large quantity can be eaten with 
great expedition. As the Arabs are nomadic, they have 
a few simple but eflective arrangements for food during 
the journey. For a fortnight preparatory to an expedition, 
the women are busily engaged in manufacturing a supply 
of abrey. This is made in several methods : there is the 
sour, and the sweet abrey ; the former is made of highly- 
fermented dhurra paste that has turned intensely acid ; 
this is formed into thin wafers, about sixteen inches in 
diameter, upon the doka or hearth, and dried in the sun 
imtil the abrey has become perfectly crisp ; the wafers 
are then broken up with the hands, and packed in bags. 
There is no drink more refreshing than water povired ovei 
a handful of sour abrey, and allowed to stand for hair 



364 THE BOS CAFFER. [chap. xxi. 

an hour ; it becomes pleasantly acid, and is superior to 
lemonade. The residue is eaten by the Arabs : thus the 
abrey supplies both meat and drink. The finest quality 
of sweet abrey is a very delicate affair ; the flour of dhurra 
must be well sifted ; it is then mixed with milk instead 
of water, and, without fermenting, it is formed into thin 
wafers similar to those eaten with ice-creams in this 
country, but extremely large ; these are dried in the sun, 
and crushed like the sour abrey; they will keep for 
months if kept dry in a leathern bag. A handful of sweet 
abrey steeped in a bowl of hot milk, with a little honey, 
is a luxurious breakfast; nothing can be more delicious, 
and it can be prepared in a few minutes during the short 
halt upon a journey. With a good supply of abrey and 
dried meat, the commissariat arrangements are wonder- 
fully simplified, and a party can march a great distance 
without much heavy baggage to impede their movements. 

The flesh that is the least adapted for drying is that 
of the buffalo {Bos Caffer), which is exceedingly tough 
and coarse. There are two species of the Bos Caffer in 
Abyssinia and Central Africa, which, similar in general 
appearance, differ in the horns ; that which resembles the 
true Bos Caffer of South Africa has very massive convex 
horns that unite in front, and completely cover the fore- 
head as with a shield ; the other variety has massive, 
but perfectly flat horns of great breadth, that do not quite 
unite over the os frontis, although nearly so ; the flatness 
of the horns continues in a rough surface, somewhat 
resembling the bark of a tree, for about twelve inches; 
the horns then become round, and curve gracefully in- 
wards, like those of the convex species. Buffaloes are 
very dangerous and determined animals ; but, although 
more accidents occur in hunting these than any other 
variety of game, I cannot admit that they are such for- 
midable opponents as the elephant and black rhinoceros ; 
they are so much more numerous than the latter, that they 
are more frequently encountered : hence the casualties. 

A buffalo can always be killed with a JSTo. 10 rifle and 
six drachms of powder when chargmg, if the hunter will 
only wait coolly until it is so close that he cannot miss the 



CHAP. XXI.] RIFLES FOR WILD COUNTRIES. 365 

forehead ; but the same rifle will fail against an African 
elephant, or a black rhinoceros, as the horns of the latter 
animal effectually protect the brain from a front shot. I 
have killed some hundreds of buffaloes, and, although in 
many cases they have been unpleasantly near, the rifle has 
always won the day. There cannot be a more convenient 
size than ISTo. 10 for a double rifle, for large game. This 
will throw a conical projectile of three ounces, with seven 
drachms of powder. Although a breechloader is a luxury, 
I would not have more than a pair of such rifles in an 
expedition in a wild country, as they would require more 
care in a damp climate than the servants would be likely to 
bestow upon them, and the ammunition would be a great 
drawback. This should be divided into packets of ten 
cartridges each, which should be rolled up in flannel 
and hermetically sealed in separate tin canisters. Thus 
arranged, they would be impervious to damp, and might 
be carried conveniently. But I should decidedly provide 
myself with four double-barrelled muzzle-loading No. lO's 
as my regular battery ; that, if first class, would never get 
out of order. Nothing gives such confidence to the gun- 
bearers as the fact of their rifles being good slayers, and 
they quickly learn to take a pride in their weapons, and to 
strive in the race to hand the spare rifles. Dust storms, 
such as I have constantly witnessed in Africa, would be 
terrible enemies to breech-loaders, as the hard sand, by 
grating in the joints, would wear away the metal, and 
destroy the exactness of the fittings. 

A small handy double rifle, such as my little Fletcher 
24, not exceeding eight pounds and a half, is very neces- 
sar}^, as it should seldom be out of the hand. Such a rifle 
should be a breech-loader, as the advantage of loading 
quickly while on horseback is incalculable. Hunting- 
knives should be of soft steel, similar to butchers' knives ; 
but one principal knife to be worn daily should be of 
harder steel, with the back of the blade roughed and case- 
hardened like a butcher's steel, for sharpening other knives 
when required. 

All boxes for rough travelling should be made of strong 
metal, japanned. These are a great comfort, as they arc 



366 SUNDRY HINTS. [chap. xxi. 

proof both against insects and weather, and can be towed 
with their contents across a river. 

Travelling is now so generally understood, that it is 
hardly necessary to give any instructions for the explora- 
tion of wild countries ; but a few hints may be acceptable 
upon points that, although not absolutely essential, tend 
much to the comfort of the traveller. A couple of large 
carriage umbrellas with double lining, with smaU rings 
fixed to the extremities of the ribs, and a spike similar 
to that of a fishing-rod to screw into the handle, will 
form an instantaneous shelter from sun or rain during a 
halt on the march, as a few strings from the rings will 
secure it from the wind, if pegged to the ground. Water- 
proof calico sheeting should be taken in large quantities, 
and a tarpaulin to protect the baggage during the night's 
bivouac. Ko vulcanised India-rubber should be employed 
in tropical climates ; it rots, and becomes useless. A quart 
syringe for injecting brine into fresh meat is very neces- 
sary. In hot climates, the centre of the joint will decom- 
pose before the salt can penetrate to the interior, but an 
injectingsyringewill thoroughly preserve the meat in a few 
minutes. A few powerful fox -traps are useful for catching 
night-game in countries where there is no large game for 
the rifie : also wire is useful for making springs. 

Several sticks of Indian-ink are convenient, as sufficient 
can be rubbed up in a few moments to write up the note- 
book during the march. AH journals and note-bookf 
should be of tinted paper, green, as the glare of whitt 
paper in the intense sunlight of the open sky is most 
trying to the eyes. Burning glasses and flint and steek 
are very necessary. Lucifer matches are dangerous, as 
they may ignite and destroy your baggage in dry weather, 
and become utterly useless in the damp. 

A large supply of quicksilver should be taken for the 
admixture with lead for hardening bullets, in addition to 
that required for the artificial horizon ; the effect of this 
metal is far greater than a mixture of tin, as the specific 
gravity of the bullet is increased. 

Throughout a long experience in wild sports, although 
I admire the velocity of conical projectiles. I always have 



II 



CHAP. XXI.] CHOICE OF BULLETS. 367 

retained my opinion that, in jungle countries, where in the 
absence of dogs you require either to disable your game on 
the spot, or to produce a distinct blood-track that is easily 
followed, the old-fashioned two-groove belted ball will bag 
more game than modern bullets ; but, on the other hand, 
the facility of loading a conical bullet already formed into 
a cartridge is a great advantage. The shock produced by 
a pointed projectile is nothing compared to that of the 
old belted ball, unless it is on the principle of Purday's 
high velocity expanding bullet, which, although perfection 
for deer-shooting, would be useless against thick-skiuued 
animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. In Africa, the 
variety of game is such, that it is impossible to tell, when 
loading, at what animal the bullet will be fired ; therefore, 
it is necessary to be armed wath a rifle suitable for all 
comers. My little Fletcher was the Enfield bore, Xo. 24, 
and, although a most trusty weapon, the bullets generally 
failed to penetrate the skull of hippopotami, except in 
places vrhere the bone w^as thin, such as behind the ear, 
and beneath the eyes. Although I killed great numbers of 
animals with the Enfield bullet, the success was due to 
tolerably correct shooting, as I generally lost the larger 
antelopes if wounded by that projectile in any place but 
the neck, head, or shoulder; the wound did not bleed 
freely, therefore it was next to impossible to follow up the 
blood-track ; thus a large proportion of w^ounded animals 
escaped. 

I saw, and shot, thirteen varieties of antelopes while in 
Africa. Upon arrival at Khartoum, I met llerr von 
Heuglin, w^ho commanded the expedition in search of Dr. 
Yogel ; he was an industrious naturalist, who had been 
many years in the Soudan and in Abyssinia. We com- 
pared notes of all we had seen and done, and he very 
kindly supplied me with a list of all the antelopes that he 
had been able to trace as existing in Abyssinia and the 
Soudan ; he now included my maarif, which he had never 
met with, and which he agreed was a new species. In 
the following list, which is an exact copy of that which he 
had arranged, those marked with an asterisk are species 
that I have myself shot : — 



368 ANTELOPES OF CENTRAL AFRICA [chap, xxi 



Catalogue des especes du genre " Antilope," ohservees en Mgypte, dans 
la Nuhie, au Soudan orientale et en Abissinie. 

A. — Gazella, Blains. 

1. — Spec. G. Dorcas* Arab. Ghasdl. 

•2 — G. Arahica* Ehr. A la cote de la Mer rouge. 

3. — G. Lcevipes, Sund. Arab. Abou Horab^t ? Nubie, Taka, 
Sennaar, Kordofan. 

4. — G. spec. (?) en Tigreh Choquen (Bogos). 

5. — G, Dama* Licht. Arab. Adra, Ledra. Eiel, Bajouda, Berber, 
Sennaar, Kordofan. 

6. — G. Soemmeringii, Riipp. Arab. Om Ordba. Tigreh, Arab. Taka, 
Massowa, Gedaref, Berber, Sennaar. 

7. — G. Leptoceros. Arab. Abou Hardb. Gazelle a longues comes, 
minces et paralleles. Bajouda, Berber, Taka, Sennaar, Kor- 
dofan. 

B. — Calotragus, Luad. 

8. — C. montanus,'^ Riipp. Arab. Otrab and El Mor. Amhar. 

Fiego. Sennaar, Abissinie, Taka, Galabat. 
9. — C. Saltatrix, Forst. Amhar. Sasa. Abissinie. 

C. — Nanotragus, Wagn. 

10. — N. Semprichianus* Ehr. Arab. Om dig dig. . Abissinie ori- 
entale et occidentale, Taka, Kordofan. 

D. — Cephalolophus, H. Smith. 

11. — G. Madaqua. Amhar. Midakoua. Galabat, Barka, Abissinie. 
12, 13. — Deux especes inconnues du Fleuve blanc, nominees par les 
Djenkes, " Amok," 

E. — Redunca. 

14. — R. Eleotragus, Schrb. Djenke, Bor. Bahr el Abiad. 

15. — jR. Behor, Riipp. Amhar. Behor. Abissinie centrale, Kordofan. 

16. — jR. Kull, nov. spec. Djenke, Koul. Bahr el Abiad. 

17. — R. leucotis, Peters et Licht. Djenke, Adjel. Bahr el Abiad, 

Saubat. 
18. — R. Wuil, nov. spec. Djenke, Ou'il. Bahr el Abiad, Saubat. 
19. — R. Lechee,* Gray. Bahr el Abiad. 
20. — R. megcerosa,* Heuglin. Kobus Maria, Gray. Djenke, Abok. 

Saubat, Bahr el Abiad et Bahr Ghazal. 
21. — R. Defassa* Riipp. Arab. Om Hetehet. Amhar. Dofdsa. 

Djenke, Bor. Bahr el Salame, Galabat, Kordofan, Bahr el 

Abiad, Dender, Abissinie occidentale et centrale. 
22. — R. ellipsiprymna, Ogilby. Djenke, Bor. Bahr el Abiad, 



CHAP. XXI. J AND ABYSSINIA. 3Gi) 



F. — HiPPOTRAQUS, Sund. 
23.— if. niger, Harris. Arab. Abou Maarif. Kordofan m(^ridionale, 

fleuve Blanc (Chilouk). 
24.— jff. nov. spec. Arab. Abou Maarif."^— 5aZ:em.* Rthr el Saliiam, 

Galabat Dender, fleuve Bleu, Sennaar m^ridionale. 
25.— if. Beisa, Eiipp. Arab. Be'isa et Damma. Souakim, Massowa, 

Danakil, Somauli, Kordofan. 
26.— H ensicornis, Ehr. Arab. Ouaholi el bagr. Nubie, Berber, 

Kordofan. 
27. — H. Addax, Licht. Arab, Akach. Bajouda, Egypte occidentale 

(Oasis de Siouali). 

G. — Taurotragus, Wagn. 

28. — T. Orcas, Pall. (Antilope Canna). Bjenke, Goualgoual. Bahr 

el Abiad. 
29. — T. gigas, nov. spec. Chez les pleuplades Atoats, au Bahr el 
Abiad. 

H. — Tragelaphus, Blains. 
30. — Tr. strepsiceros (Pallas). Arab. Nellet, Miremreh. Tigreh, 

Garona. Amhar. Agazen. Abissinie, Sennaar, Homran, 

Galabat, Kordofan. 
31. — Tr. sylvaticus, Spserm. Bahr el Abiad. 
32. — Tr. hekula,* Eiipp. Amhar. Dekoula. Arab. Houch. Djenke, 

Ber. Taka, Abissinie, Bahr el Abiad. 

I. — BUBALIS. 

33. — B. Mauritanica, Sund. (Antilope Bubalis, Cuvier). Arab. T^tel; 

Tigreh, Tori. Taka, Homran, Barka, Galabat, Kordofan, 

Bahr el Abiad. 
34. — B. Caama, Cuv. Arab. T^tel. Djenke, Awalwon. Bahi' el Abiad, 

Kordofan m<^ridionale. 
35. — B. Senegalensis, H. Smith. Bahr el Abiad. 
36. — B. Tiang, nov. spec. Djenke, Tian. Bahr el Abiad, Bahr Ghazal. 
37. — B. Tian-riel, nov. spec. Bahr el Abiad. 

Species incert.^. 

" Soada," au Oualkait et Mareb (Taurotragus ?). 

" Uorobo," au Godjam, Agow (Hippotragus). 

" Ouoadcmbi.^^ Mareb, Oualkait (Hippotragus). 

" El Mor." Sennaar, Fazoglfe (Nanotragus '/). 

*' El Khondieh." Kordofan (Redimca ?) 

" Om KhaV Kordofan (Gazella ?). 

^^ El Hamrar Kordofan, Bajouda (Gazella ?). 



B B 



CHAPTEE XXIT. 

WE LEAVE THE DINDER. 

Foe some days we contin-Qed our journey along the banks 
of the Dinder, and as the monotonous river turned towards 
the junction with the Bhie Mle, a few miles distant, we 
made a direct cut across the flat country, to cross the 
Eahad and arrive at Abou Harraz on the Blue Nile. We 
]:)assed numerous villages and extensive plantations of 
dhurra that were deserted by the Arabs, as the soldiers had 
arrived to collect the taxes. I measured the depths of the 
wells, seventy-five feet and a half, from the surface to the 
bottom ; the alluvial soil appeared to continue the whole 
distance, until the water was discovered resting upon hard 
sand, full of small particles of mica. During the march 
over a portion of the country that had been cleared hj 
burning, we met a remarkably curious hunting-party. A 
number of the common black and white stork were hunt- 
ing for grasshoppers and other insects, but mounted upon 
the back of each stork was a large copper-coloured fly- 
catcher, which, perched like a rider on his horse, kept a 
bright look-out for insects, which from its elevated position 
it could easily discover upon the ground. I watched them 
for some time : whenever the storks perceived a grass- 
hopper or other winged insect, they chased it on foot, 
but if they missed their game, the flycatchers darted from 
their backs and flew after the insects like falcons, catching 
them in their beaks, and then returnino^ to their steeds to 
look out for another opportunity. 

On the evening of the 23d May we arrived at the 
Eahad close to its junction with the Blue Nile : it was 
still dry, although the Dinder was rising. I accounted for 
this, from the fact of the extreme leno'th of the Eahad's 
bed, wliich, from its extraordinary tortuous course, must 
absorb a vast amount of water in the dry sand, before the 



cuAP. XXII.] CHARACTiqp^L- t-^tp ^■^cSIiYIAiY lUVELlS. 371 

advancing stream can reacli the Nile. Both the Eahad and 
Diiider rise in the mountains of Abyssinia, at no great dis- 
tance from each other, and during the rains they convey a 
large volume of water to the Blue Nile. Upon arrival at 
Abou Harraz, four miles to the north of the Rahad junc- 
tion, we had marched, by careful dead reckoning, two 
hundred and eighty miles from Gallabat. AVe were now 
about a hundred and fifteen miles from Khartoum, and we 
stood upon the banks of the magniticent Blue Nile, the 
last of the Abyssinian affluents. 

About six miles above this spot, on the south bank of 
the river, is the large town of AVat Medene, which is the 
principal trading-place upon the river. Abou Harraz was 
a miserable spot, and was only important as the turning 
point upon the road to Katariff from Khartoum. The 
entire country upon both sides of the river is one vast un- 
broken level of rich soil, which on the north and east sides 
is bounded by the Atbara. The entire surface of this 
fertile country might be cultivated witli cotton. All that 
is required to insure productiveness, is a regular supply of 
water, which might be artificially arranged without much 
difficulty. The character of all the Abyssinian rivers is to 
rise and fall suddenly; thus at one season there is an 
abundance of water, to be followed by a scarcity : but in 
all the fertile provinces adjacent to the Settite and the 
upper portion of the Atbara, the periodical rains can be 
absolutely depended upon, from June to the middle of 
September ; thus, they are peculiarly adapted for cotton, as 
a dry season is insured for gathering the crop. As we ad- 
vance to the north, and reach Abou Harraz, we leave the 
rainy zone. When we had left Gallabat, the grass had 
sprung several inches, owing to the recent showers ; but as 
we had proceeded rapidly towards the north, we had 
entered upon vast dusty plains devoid of a green blade ; the 
rainy season between Abou Harraz and Khartoum con- 
sisted of mere occasional storms, that, descendino- with 
great violence, quickly passed away. Nothing would be 
more simple than to form a succession of weirs across the 
Eahad and Binder, that would enable the entire country to 
be irrigated at any season of the year, but there is not an 

BB 2 



372 BORASSuu ^^Hl ICUS. [ohae. xxii. 

engineering work of any description throughout Upper 
Egypt, beyond the sageer or water-wheel of the Mle. 
Opposite Abou Harraz, the Blue Nile was a grand river, 
about five hundred yards in width ; the banks upon the 
north side were the usual perpendicular cliffs of alluvial 
soil, but perfectly bare of trees ; while, on the south, the 
banks were ornamented with nabbuk bushes and beautiful 
palms. The latter are a peculiar species known by the 
Arabs as " dolape " (Borassus ^thiopicus) : the stem, is 
long, and of considerable thickness, but in about the centre 
of its length it sweUs to nearly half its diameter in excess, 
and after a few feet of extra thickness it continues its 
original size to the summit, which is crowned by a hand- 
some crest of leaves shaped like those of the palmyra. 
The fruit of this palm is about the size of a cocoa-nut, and 
when ripe it is of a bright yellow, with an exceedingly 
rich perfume of apricots ; it is very stringy, and, although 
eaten by the natives, it is beyond the teeth of a European. 
The Arabs cut it into slices, and boil it with water until 
they obtain a strong syrup. Subsequently I found this 
palm in great quantities near the equator. 

At Abou Harraz I discharged my camels, and endea- 
voured to engage a bog,t to convey us to Khartoum, thus 
to avoid the dusty and uninteresting ride of upwards of a 
hundred miles along its flat and melancholy banks ; but 
there was not a vessel of any kind to be seen upon the 
river, except one miserable, dirty affair, for which the 
owner demanded fourteen hundred piastres for a passage. 
We accordingly procured camels, and started, intending 
to march as rapidly as possible. 

" June 2, 1862. — We packed the camels in the morning 
and started them off to Eutaar. We followed at 2.30 P.]\i. 
as the natives declared it was half a day's journey ; but 
we did not arrive until 8.30 p.m. having marched about 
twcDty-one miles. The town is considerable, and is the 
head-quarters of our old friend, the gTcat Sheik Achmet 
Abou Sinn ; he is now absent, but his son Ali is at home. 
He received us very kindly, and lodged us in his own 
house within a large inclosed court, with a well of good 
water in the centre. Having read my firman, he paid us 



CHAP. XXII.] THE BLUE NILE. 373 

the usual compliments, but lie lacked the calm dignity and 
ease of manner of his grand old father. He sat stiffly 
upon the divan, occasionally relieving the monotony of 
his position by lifting up the cover of the cushions, 
and spitting beneath it. Not having a handkerchief, but 
only the limited natural advantages of a finger and thumb, 
a cold in the head gave him much trouble, and unpleasant 
marks upon the wall exhibited hieroglyphics of recent 
date, that were ill adapted to the reception-room of an 
Arab chieftain. In about an hour he departed, and 
shortly after, a dinner of four dishes was brought, '^o'. 1 
was an Arab Irish stew, but alas ! minus the potatoes ; it 
was very good, nevertheless, as the mutton was fat. !N"o. 2 
was an Arab stew, with no Irish element ; it was very hot 
with red pepper, and rather dry. No. 3 was a good quick 
fry of small pieces of mutton in butter and garlic (very 
good) ; and No. 4 was an excellent dish of the usual 
melach, already described. 

The wind had within the last few days changed to 
south, and we had been subjected to dust storms and 
sudden whirlwinds similar to those we had experienced 
at this season in the preceding year, when about to start 
from Berber. AVe left Eufaar, and continued our march 
along the banks of the Blue Nile, towards Khartoum. It 
was intensely hot ; whenever we felt a breeze it was 
accompanied with a suffocating dust, but the sight of 
the broad river was cool and refreshing. During the dry 
season the water of the Blue Nile is clear, as its broad 
surface reflects the colour of the blue sky ; hence the 
appellation, but at that time it was extremely shallow, 
and in many places it is fordable at a depth of about three 
feet, which renders it unnavigable for large boats, which, 
laden with corn, supply Khartoum from the fertile pro- 
vinces of the south. The river had now begun to rise, 
although it was still low, and the water was muddy, as 
the swelling torrents of Abyssinia brought impurities into 
the main channel. It was at this same time last year, 
when at Berber, that we had noticed the sudden increase 
and equally sudden fall of the Nile, that was influenced 
by the fluctuations of the Blue Nile, at a time when the 
Atbara was di'y. 



374 THE VERT GENTLEMANLY FAKY. [chap. xxit. 

From AboTi Harraz throughout the route to Khartoum 
there is no object of interest ; it is the same vast flat, 
decreasing rapidly in fertility until it mingles with the 
desert ; and once more, as we journey to the north, we 
leave the fertile lands behind, and enter upon sterility. 
The glare of barren plains and the iieat of the summer's 
sun were fearful. Bacheet had a slight coup de soleil ; 
my Tokrooris, whose woolly heads were shaved, and 
simply covered with a thin skull-cap, suffered severely, as 
we marched throughout the burning hours of the day. 
The Arabs were generally very inhospitable, as this was 
the route frequented by all native merchants, where 
strangers were of daily occurrence; but towards evening 
we arrived at a village inhabited by a large body of 
Fakeers, or priests. As we entered, we were met by the 
principal Faky, who received us with marked attention, 
and with a charming courtesy of manner that quite won 
our hearts ; he expressed himself as delighted at our 
arrival, hoped we were not fatigued by the heat, and 
trusted that we would rest for a few minutes before we 
departed to the enchanting village "just beyond those 
trees," as he pointed to a clump of green nabbuk on 
the yellow plain, about a mile distant ; there, he assured 
us, we could obtain all kinds of supplies, together with 
shade, and a lovely view of the river. We were delighted 
with this very gentlemanly Faky, and, saying adieu with 
regret, we hurried on to the promised village " just 
beyond those trees." 

For fourteen miles we travelled, hungry and tired, 
beyond the alluring clump of trees, along the wild desert 
of hot sand without a habitation; the only portion of 
truth in the Faky's description was the "lovely view 
of the river," that certainly accompanied us throughout 
our journey. We were regularly "sold" by the cunning 
Faky, who, not wishing to be incommoded by our party, 
had got rid of us in a most gentlemanly manner. At 
length we arrived at a village, where we had much difii- 
culty in procuring provisions for ourselves and people. 

On the 11th June, having slept at the village of Abou 
Dome, we started at sunrise, and at 9 A.M. we reached 



CHAP. XXII.] ARRIVAL AT KHARTOUM. 375 

the bank, of the river, opposite to Khartoum. We were 
delighted with the view, as the morning sun shone upon 
the capital of the Soudan provinces ; the grove of date 
trees shaded the numerous buildings, their dark green 
foliage contrasting exquisitely with the many coloured 
houses on the extreme margin of the beautiful river ; long 
lines of vessels and masts gave life to the scene, and we 
felt that once more, after twelve months of utterly wild 
life, we had arrived in civilization. We had outridden 
our camels, therefore we rode through a shallow arm of 
the river, and arrived upon an extensive sandbank that 
had been converted into a garden of melons ; from this 
point a large ferry-boat plied regularly to the town on the 
south bank. In a few miimtes we found ourselves on 
board, with our sole remaining horse, Tetel, also the 
donkeys that we had purchased in Berber before our 
expedition, and our attendants. As we gained the centre 
of the river, that was about 800 yards broad, we were 
greeted by the snort of three of our old friends, the hippo- 
potami, who had been attracted to the neighbourhood by 
the garden of water-melons. We landed at Khartoum, 
and, having climbed up the steep bank, we inquired the 
way to the British Consulate. 

The difference between the view of Khartoum at the 
distance of a mile, with the sun shining upon the bright 
river Nile in the foreground, to the appearance of the town 
upon close inspection, was about equal to the scenery of a 
theatre as regarded from the boxes or from the stage ; even 
that painful exposure of an optical illusion would be 
trifling compared with the imposture of Khartoum ; the 
sense of sight had been deceived by distance, but the 
sense of smell was outraged by innumerable nuisances, 
when we set foot within the filthy and miserable town. 
After w^inding through some narrow dusty lanes, hemmed 
in by high walls of sun-baked bricks, that had fallen 
in gaps in several places, exposing gardens of prickly 
pears and date palms, we at length arrived at a large 
open place, that, if possible, smelt more strongly than the 
landing spot. Around this square, which was full of holes 
where the mud had been excavated for brickmaking, were 



376 THE ENGLISH CONSULATE. [chap. xxii. 

the better class of houses ; this was the Belgravia of Khar- 
toum. In the centre of a long mud wall, ventilated by 
certain attempts at frameless windows, guarded by rough 
wooden bars, we perceived a large archway with closed 
doors ; above this entrance was a shield, with a device 
that gladdened my English eyes : there was the British 
lion and the unicorn 1 Not such a lion as I had been 
accustomed to meet in his native jungles, a yellow 
cowardly fellow, that had often slunk away from the 
very prey from which I had driven him, but a real 
red British lion, that, although thin and ragged in the 
unhealthy climate of Khartoum, looked as though he 
was pluck to the backbone. 

This was the English Consulate. I regarded our lion 
and unicorn for a few moments with feelings of venera- 
tion; and as Mr. Petherick, the consul, who was then 
absent on the White Mle in search of Speke and Grant, 
had very kindly begged me to occupy some rooms in the 
Consulate, we entered a large courtyard, and were imme- 
diately received by two ostriches that came to meet us ; 
these birds entertained us by an impromptu race as hard 
as they could go round the courtyard, as though perform- 
ing in a circus. When this little divertissement was finished, 
we turned to the right, and were shown by a servant up a 
flight of steps into a large airy room that was to be our 
residence, which, being well protected from the sun, was 
cool and agreeable. Mr. Petherick had started from Khar- 
toum in the preceding March, and had expected to meet 
Speke and Grant in the upper portion of the Mle regions, 
on their road from Zanzibar ; but there are insurmountable 
difficulties in those wild countries, and his expedition met 
with unforeseen accidents, that, in spite of the exertions of 
both himself, his very devoted wife. Dr. Murie, and two or 
three Europeans, drove them from their intended path. 
Shortly after our arrival at the Consulate, a vessel re- 
turned from his party with unfavourable accounts ; they 
had started too late in the season, owing to some diffi- 
culties in procuring boats, and the change of wind to 
the south, with violent rain, had caused great suffering, 
and had retarded their progress. This same boat had 



CHAP. XXII.] OSTRICHES INVITE THEMSELVES TO TEA. 'd>ll 

brought two leopards that were to he sent to England : 
these animals were led into the courtyard, and, having 
been secured by chains, they formed a valuable addi- 
tion to the menagerie, which consisted of two wild boars, 
two leopards, one hysena, two ostriches, and a cyno- 
cephalus or dog-faced baboon, who won my heart by 
taking an especial fancy to me, because I had a beard 
like his master. 

Although I take a great interest in wild animals, I con- 
fess to have an objection to sleep in the Zoological Gardens 
should all the wild beasts be turned loose. I do not 
believe that even the Secretary of that learned Society • 
would volunteer to sleep with the lions ; but as the 
leopards at the Khartoum Consulate constantly broke their 
chains, and attacked the dogs and a cow, and as the hysena 
occasionally got loose, and the wild boars destroyed their 
mud wall, and nearly killed one of my Tokrooris during 
the night, by carving him like a scored leg of pork with 
their tusks, the fact of sleeping in the open air in the 
verandah, with the simple protection of a mosquito- 
netting, was full of pleasant excitement, and was a 
piquante entertainment that prevented a reaction of ennui 
after twelve months passed in constant watchfulness. The 
shield over the Consulate door, with the lion and the 
unicorn, was but a sign of the life within ; as the grand 
picture outside the showman's wagon may exemplify the 
nature of his exhibition. I enjoyed myself extremely 
with these creatures, especially when the ostriches invited 
themselves to tea, and swallowed our slices of water- 
melons and the greater portion of the bread from the table 
a few moments before we were seated. These birds ap- 
peared to enjoy life amazingly; one kind of food was as 
sweet as another ; they attacked a basket of white porce- 
lain beads that had been returned by Mr. Petherick's 
men, and swallowed them in great numbers in mistake 
for dhurra, until they were driven off; they were the 
scavengers of the courtyard, that consumed the dung 
of the camels and horses, together with all other 
impurities. 

For some months we resided at Khartoum, as it was 



378 / INTERCEBJ^ FOR MEK NUnWR. [chap. xxii. 

necessary to make extensive preparations for the White 
Nile expedition, and to await the arrival of the north 
wind, which would enable ns to start early in December. 
Although the north and south winds blow alternately for 
six months, and the former commences in October, it does 
not extend many degrees southward until the beginning of 
December. This is a great drawback to White Xile ex- 
ploration, as when near the north side of the equator, the 
dry season commences in ISTovember, and closes in Feb- 
ruary; thus, the departure from Khartoum should take 
place by a steamer in the latter part of September ; that 
would enable the traveller to leave Gondokoro, lat. i^. 
4° 54', shortly before November ; he would then secure 
three months of favoui^able weather for an advance inland. 
Having promised Mek Nimmur that I would lay his 
proposals for peace before the Governor- General of the 
Soudan, I called upon Moosa Pasha at the public divan, 
and delivered the message ; but he would not listen to any 
intercession, as he assured me that Mek Nimmur was 
incorrigible, and there would be no real peace until his 
death, which would be very speedy should he chance to 
fall into his hands. He expressed great surprise at our 
having escaped from his territory, and he declared his 
intention of attacking him after he should have given the 
Abyssinians a lesson, for whom he was preparing an ex- 
pedition in reply to an insolent letter that he had received 
from ELing Theodore. The King of Abyssinia had written 
to him upon a question of frontier. The substance of the 
document was a declaration that the Egyptians had no 
right to Khartoum, and that the natural boundary of 
Abyssinia was the junction of the Blue and White Mies 
as far north as Shendy (Mek Mmmur's original country) ; 
and from that point, in a direct line, to the Atbara ; but 
that, as the desert afforded no landmark, he should send 
his people to dig a ditch from the Nile to the Atbara, and 
he requested that the Egyptians would keep upon the 
north border. Moosa Pasha declared that the king was 
mad, and that, were it not for the protection given to 
Abyssinia by the English, the Egyptians would have 
eaten it up long ago, but that the Christian powers 



CHAP. XXII.] CLIMATE OF TUE SOUBAK 379 

would certainly interfere should they attempt to annex 
the country. 

The Egyptians seldom had less than twenty thousand 
troops in the Soudan provinces ; the principal stations 
were Khartoum, Cassala, and Dongola. Cassala was close 
to the Abyssinian frontier, and within from fifteen to 
twenty days' march of Souakim, on the Red Sea, to which 
reinforcements could be despatched in five days from 
Cairo. Khartoum had the advantage of the Blue Nile, 
that was navigable for steamers and sailing vessels as far 
south as Fazogie, from which spot, as well as from Galia- 
bat, Abyssinia could be invaded; while swarms of Arabs, 
including the celebrated Hamrans, the Beni Amer, Hallon- 
gas, Hadendowas, Shookeriahs, and Dabainas, could be 
slipped like greyhounds across the frontier. Abyssinia is 
entirely at the mercy of Egypt. 

Moosa Pasha subsequently started with several thousand 
men to drive the Abyssinians from Gallabat, Avhich posi- 
tion they had occupied in force with the avowed intention 
of marching upon Khartoum ; but upon the approach of 
the Egyptians they fell back rapidly across the mountains, 
without a sign of showing fight. The Eg}'ptians would 
not follow them, as they feared the intervention of the 
European powers. 

Upon our first arrival in Khartoum, from 11th June 
until early in October, the heat was very oppressive, the 
thermometer seldom below 95° Fahr. in the shade, and 
frequently 100°, while the nights were 82° Fahr. In the 
winter, the temperature was agreeable, the shade 80°, the 
night 62° Fahr. But the chilHness of the north wind was 
exceedingly dangerous, as the sudden gusts checked the 
perspiration, and produced various maladies, more espe- 
cially fever. I had been extremely fortunate, as, although 
exposed to hard work for more than a year in the burning 
sun, I had remarkably good health, as had my wife like- 
wise, with the exception of one severe attack while at 
Sofi. Throughout the countries we had visited, the tem- 
perature was high, averaging about 90° in the shade from 
May until the end of September; but the nights were 
generally about 70°, with the exception of the winter 



380 PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOUDAN, [chap. xxii. 

months, from November until February, when the ther- 
mometer generally feU to 85° Fahr. in the day, and some- 
times as low as 58° at between 2 and 5 a.m. 

I shall not repeat a minute description of Khartoum 
that has already been given in the " Albert N'yanza ; " it 
is a wretchedly unhealthy town, containing about thirty 
thousand inhabitants, exclusive of troops. In spite of its 
unhealthiness and low situation, on a level with the river 
at the junction of the Blue and White Mies, it is the 
general emporium for the trade of the Soudan, from which 
the productions of the country are transported to Lower 
Egypt, i.e. ivory, hides, senna, gum arable, and bees'-wax. 
During my experience of Khartoum it was the hotbed of 
the slave-trade. It will be remarked that the exports from 
the Soudan are all natural productions. There ip nothing 
to exhibit the industry or capacity of the natives ; the 
ivory is the produce of violence and robbery; the hides 
are the simple sun-dried skins of oxen ; the senna grows 
wild upon the desert; the gum arable exudes sponta- 
neously from the bushes of the jungle ; and the bees'-wax 
is the produce of the only industrious creatures in that 
detestable country. 

When we regard the general aspect of the Soudan, it is 
extreme wretchedness ; the rainfall is uncertain and scanty, 
thus the country is a desert, dependent entirely upon irri- 
gation. Although cultivation is simply impossible without 
a supply of water, one of the most onerous taxes is that 
upon the sageer or water-wheel, with which the fields are 
irrigated on the borders of the I^ile. It would appear 
natural that, instead of a tax, a premium should be offered 
for the erection of such means of irrigation, which would 
mcrease the revenue by extending cultivation, the produce 
of which might bear an impost. With all the talent and 
industry of the native Egyptians, who must naturally 
depend upon the waters of the Mle for their existence, it 
is extraordinary that for thousands of years they have 
adhered to their original simple form of mechanical irriga- 
tion, without improvement. 

If any one will take the trouble to watch the action 
of the saseer or water-wheel, it must strike him as a 



CHAP. XXII.] UNCONTROLLED ACTION OF THE NILE. 381 

most puuy effort to obtain a great result, that would at 
once suggest an extension of the principle. The sageer 
is merely a wheel of about twenty feet diameter, which 
is furnished with numerous earthenware jars upon its 
exterior circumference, that upon revolving perforin the 
action of a dredger, but draw to the surface water instead 
of mud. The wheel, being turned by oxen, delivers the 
water into a trough which passes into a reservoir, roughly 
fashioned with clay, from which, small channels of about 
ten inches in width radiate through the plantation. The 
fields, divided into squares like a chess-board, are thus 
irrigated by a succession of minute aqueducts. The root 
of this principle is the reservoir. A certain steady 
volume of water is required, from which the arteries 
shall flow throughout a large area of dry ground; thus, 
the reservoir insures a regular supply to each separate 
channel. 

In any civilized country, the existence of which 
depended upon the artificial supply of water in the 
absence of rain, the first engineering principle would 
suggest a saving of labour in irrigation : that, instead 
of raising the water in small quantities into reservoirs, the 
river should raise its own waters to the required level. 

Having visited every tributary of the Nile during the 
explorations of nearly five years, I have been struck 
Avith the extraordinary fact that, although an enormous 
amount of wealth is conveyed to Egypt by the annual 
inundations of the river, the force of the stream is entirely 
uncontrolled. From time immemorial, the rise of the 
Nile has been watched with intense interest at the 
usual season, but no attempt has been made to insure a 
supply of water to Egypt during all seasons. 

The mystery of the Kile has been dispelled; we have 
proved that the equatorial lakes supply the main stream, 
but that the inundations are caused by the sudden rusli 
of waters from the torrents of Abyssinia in July, August, 
and September ; and that the soil washed down by 
the floods of the Atbara is at the present moment silting 
up the mouths of the Nile, and thus slowly, but steadily, 
forming a delta beneath the waters of the Mediterranean, 



382 SUGGESTIONS FOR IRRIGATION, [chap. xxii. 

on the same principle that created the fertile Delta of 
Egypt. Both the water and the mud of the Mle have 
duties to perform, — the water to irrigate ; the deposit to 
fertilize ; but these duties are not regularly performed : 
sometimes the rush of the inundation is overwhelminq\ 
at others it is insufficient ; while at all times an immense 
proportion of the fertilizing mud is not only wasted b}" 
a deposit beneath the sea, but navigation is impeded by 
the silt. The Nile is a powerful horse without harness, 
but, with a bridle in its mouth, the fertility of Egypt 
might be increased to a vast extent. 

As the supply of water raised by the sageer is received 
in a reservoir, from which the irrigating channels radiate 
through the plantations, so should great reservoirs be 
formed throughout the varying levels of Egypt, from 
Khartoum to the Mediterranean, comprising a distance 
of sixteen degrees of latitude, with a fall of fifteen 
hundred feet. The advantage of this great difference in 
altitude between the Mle in latitude 15° 30' and the 
sea, would enable any amount of irrigation, by the estab- 
lishment of a series of dams or weirs across the Mle, 
that would raise its level to the required degree, at 
certain points, from which the water would be led by 
canals into natural depressions ; these would form reser- 
voirs, from which the water might be led upon a vast 
scale, in a similar manner to the insignificant mud 
basins that at the present day form the reservoirs for 
the feeble water-wheels. The increase of the river's 
level would depend upon the height of the dams; but, 
as stone is plentiful throughout the Mle, the engineering 
difficulties would be trifling. 

Mehemet Ali Pasha acknowledged the principle, by 
the erection of the barrage between Cairo and Alex- 
andria, which, by simply raising the level of the river, 
enabled the people to extend their channels for irrigation ; 
but this was the crude idea, that has not been carried 
out upon a scale commensurate with the requirements 
of Egypt. The ancient Egyptians made use of the lake 
Mareotis as a reservoir for the Mle waters for the 
irrigation of a large extent of Lower Egypt, by taking 



CHAP. XXII.] FORMATION OF A DELTA BY SCIENCE. 383 

advantage of a higli Nile to secure a suj^ply for the 
remainder of the year ; but, great as were the works of 
those industrious people, they appear to have ignored 
the first principle of irrigation, by neglecting to raise 
the level of the river. 

Egypt remains in the same position that Nature ori- 
ginally allotted to her; the life-giving stream that flows 
tlirough a thousand miles of burning sands suddenly 
rises in July, and floods the Delta which it has formed 
by a deposit, during perhaps hundreds of thousands of 
inundations ; and it wastes a superabundance of fertilizing- 
mud in the waters of the Mediterranean. As Nature 
has thus formed, and is still forming a delta, why should 
not Science create a delta, with the powerful means at 
our disposal ? Why should not the mud of the Nile 
tha.t now silts up the Mediterranean be directed to the 
barren but vast area of deserts, that by such a deposit 
would become a fertile portion of Egypt ? This work 
might be accomplished by simple means : the waters of 
the Nile, that now rush impetuously at certain seasons 
with overwhelming violence, while at other seasons they 
are exliausted, might be so controlled that they should 
never be in excess, neither would they be reduced to a 
minimum in the dry season; but the enormous volume 
of water heavily charged with soil, that now rushes use- 
lessly into the sea, might be led throughout the deserts 
of Nubia and Libya, to transform them into cotton fields 
that would render England independent of America. 
There is no fiction in this idea ; it is merely the simple 
and commonplace fact, that with a fall of fifteen hundred 
feet in a thousand miles, with a river that supplies an 
unlimited quantity of water and mud at a particular 
season, a supply could be afibrded to a prodigious area, 
that Avould be fertilized not only by irrigation, but by 
the annual deposit of soil from the water, allowed to 
remain upon the surface. This suggestion might be 
carried out by gradations ; the great work might be com- 
menced by a single dam above the first cataract at 
Assouan, at a spot where the river is walled in by granite 
hills ; at that place, the water could be raised to an ex- 



384 THE BENEFITS TO CIVILIZATION, [chap, xxii 

ceedingly higli level, that would command an immense 
tract of country. As the system became developed, 
similar dams might be constructed at convenient intervals 
that would not only bring into cultivation the neigh- 
bouring deserts, but would facilitate the navigation of 
the river, that is now impeded, and frequently closed, 
by the numerous cataracts. By raising the level of the 
Nile sixty feet at every dam, the cataracts would no longer 
exist, as the rocks which at present form the obstructions 
would be buried in the depths of the river. At the 
positions of the several dams, sluice gates and canals 
would conduct the shipping either up or down the stream. 
Were this principle carried out as far as the last cataracts, 
near Khartoum, the Soudan would no longer remain a 
desert ; the Nile would become not only the cultivator of 
those immense tracts that are now utterly worthless, but it 
would be the navigable channel of Egypt for the extraor- 
dinary distance of twenty-seven degrees of latitude — direct 
from the Mediterranean to G-ondokoro, N. lat. 4° 54'. 

The benefits, not only to Egypt, but to civilization, 
would be incalculable ; those remote countries in the 
interior of Africa are so difficult of access, that, although 
we cling to the hope that at some future time the in- 
habitants may become enlightened, it will be simply 
impossible to alter their present condition, unless we 
change the natural conditions under which they exist. 
From a combination of adverse circumstances, they are 
excluded from the civilized world : the geographical 
position of those desert-locked and remote countries 
shuts them out from personal communication with 
strangers : the hardy explorer and the missionary creep 
through the difficulties of distance in their onward paths, 
but seldom return : the European merchant is rarely 
seen, and trade resolves itself into robbery and piracy 
upon the White Mle, and other countries, where distance 
and difficulty of access have excluded all laws and 
political surveillance. Nevertheless, throughout that 
desert, and neglected wilderness, the Nile has flowed 
for ages, and the people upon its banks are as wild 
and uncivilized at the present day as they were when 



CHAP. XXII.] AI^CmNT IRRIGATION IN CEYLON. 385 

the Pyramids were raised in Lower Egypt. The Nile is 
a blessing only half appreciated ; the time will arrive 
when people will look in amazement upon a mighty 
Egypt, whose waving crops shall extend, far beyond the 
horizon, upon those sandy and thirsty deserts where 
only the camel can contend with exhausted nature. Men 
will look down from some lofty point upon a network 
of canals and reservoirs, spreading throughout a land 
teeming with fertility, and wonder how it was that, 
for so many ages, the majesty of the Nile had been 
concealed. Not only the sources of that wonderful 
river had been a mystery from the earliest history of 
the world, but the resources and the power of the mighty 
Nile are still mysterious and misunderstood. 

In all rainless countries, artificial irrigation is the first 
law of nature, it is self-preservation ; but, even in countries 
where the rainfall can be depended upon with tolerable 
certainty, irrigation should never be neglected ; one dry 
season in a tropical country may produce a famine, the 
results of which may be terrible, as instanced lately by the 
unfortunate calamity in Orissa. The remains of the beau- 
tiful system of artificial irrigation that was employed by 
the ancients in Ceylon, attest the degree of civilization to 
which they had attained ; in that island the waters of 
various rivers were conducted into valleys that were con- 
verted into lakes, by dams of solid masonry that closed the 
extremity, from which the water was conducted by arti- 
ficial channels throughout the land. In those days, Ceylon 
was the most fertile country of the East ; her power 
equalled her prosperity ; vast cities teeming with a dense 
population stood upon the borders of the great reservoirs, 
and the people revelled in wealth and plenty. The dams 
were destroyed in civil warfare; the wonderful works of 
irrigation shared in the destruction ; the country dried 
up ; famine swallowed up the population ; and the 
grandeur and prosperity of that extraordinary country 
collapsed and withered in the scorching sun, when the 
supply of water was withdrawn. 

At the present moment, ten thousand square miles lie 
desolate in thorny jungles, where formerly a sea of waving 

C C 



386 INDUSTRIOUS POPULATION OF EGYPT, [chap, xxii 

rice-crops floated on the surface ; the people are dead, the 
glory is departed. This glory had been the fruit of irriga- 
tion. All this prosperity might be restored : but in Egypt 
there has been no annihilation of a people, and the Nile 
invites a renewal of the system formerly adopted in 
Ceylon ; there is an industrious population crowded upon 
a limited space of fertile soil, and yearning for an increase 
of surface. At the commencement of this work, we saw 
tlie Egyptians boating the earth from the crumbling ruins, 
and transporting it with arduous labour to spread upon the 
barren sandbanks of the Nile, left by the retreating river ; 
they were striving for every foot of land thus offered by 
the exhausted waters, and turning into gardens what in 
other countries would have been unworthy of cultivation. 
Were a system of irrigation established upon the principle 
that I have proposed, the advantages would be enormous. 
The silt deposited in the Mediterranean, that now chokes 
the mouths of the Mle, and blocks up harbours, would be 
precipitated upon the broad area of newly- irrigated lands, 
and by the time that the water arrived at the sea, it would 
have been filtered in its passage, and have become in- 
capable of forming a fresh deposit. The great difficulty of 
the Suez canal will be the silting up of the entrance by 
the Mle ; this would be prevented were the mud deposited 
in the upper country. 

During the civil war in America, Egypt proved her 
capabilities by producing a large amount of cotton of most 
excellent quality, that assisted us materially in the great 
dearth of that article ; but, although large fortunes were 
realized by the extension of this branch of agriculture, the 
Egyptians suffered considerably in consequence. The area 
of fertile soil was too limited, and, as an unusual surface 
was devoted to the growth of cotton, there was a deficiency 
in the production of corn ; and Egypt, instead of exporting 
as heretofore, was forced to import large quantities of grain. 
Were the area of Egypt increased to a vast extent by the 
proposed system of irrigation, there would be space suffi- 
cient for both grain and cotton to any amount required. 
The desert soil, that is now utterly worthless, would 
become of great value ; and the taxes upon the increased 



CHAP. XXII.] THE GRJEAT SAHARA. 387 

pioduce would not only cover the first outlay of the irriga- 
tion works, but would increase the revenue in the ratio 
proportionate to the increased surface of fertility. A dam 
across the Atbara would irrigate the entire country from 
Gozerajup to Berber, a distance of upwards of 200 miles ; 
and the same system upon the Nile w^ould carry the waters 
throughout the deserts between Khartoum and Dongola, 
and from thence to Lower Egypt. The Nubian desert, from 
Korosko to Abou Hamed, w^ould become a garden, the 
whole of that sterile country inclosed within the great 
western bend of the Nile towards Dongola would be em- 
braced in the system of irrigation, and the barren sands 
that now give birth to the bitter melon of the desert 
{Ciicumis colocynthis), would bring forth the water-melon, 
and heavy crops of grain.* The great Sahara is desert, 
simply because it receives no rainfall : give it only water, 
and the sand will combine with the richer soil beneath, 
and become productive. England would become a desert, 
could it be deprived of rain for three or four years ; the 
vegetation would wither and be carried away by the wind, 
together with the lighter and more friable portions of the 
soil, which, reduced to dust, would leave the coarser and 
more sandy particles exposed upon the surface; but the 
renewal of rain would revivify the country. The deserts 
of Egypt have never known rain, except in the form of an 
unexpected shower, that has passed away as suddenly as 
it arrived ; even that slight blessing awakens ever-ready 
Nature, and green things appear upon the yellow surface of 
the ground, that cause the traveller to wonder how their 
seeds could germinate after the exposure for so many 
months in the burning sand. Give water to these thirsty 
deserts, and they will reply with gratitude. 

* Tlie great deserts of Northern Africa, to about the 17° N. lat., are 
supposed to have formed the bottom of the Mediterranean, but to have 
been upheaved to their present level. The volcanic bombs discovered in 
the Nubian Desert suggest, by their spherical form, that the molten lava 
ejected by active volcanoes had fallen from a great height into water, that 
had rapidly cooled them, in the same manner that lead shot is manu- 
factured at the present day. It is therefore highly probable that the 
extinct craters now in existence in the Nubian Desert were active at a 
period when they formed volcanic islands in a sea — similar to Stromboli, 
&c. &c. 

cc 2 



388 THE RACE OF LIFE, Ichap. xxii. 

TMs is the way to civilize a country : the engineer will 
alter the hard conditions of nature, that have rendered 
man as barren of good works as the sterile soil upon which 
he lives. Let man have hope ; improve the present, that 
his mind may look forward to a future ; give him a horse 
that will answer to the spur, if he is to run in the race of 
life; give him a soil that will yield and tempt him to 
industry ; give him the means of communication with his 
fellow-men, that he may see his own inferiority by com- 
parison ; provide channels for the transport of his produce, 
and for the receipt of foreign manufactures, that will en- 
gender commerce : and then, when he has advanced so far 
in the scale of humanity, you may endeavour to teach him 
the principles of Christianity. Then, and not till then, can 
we hope for moral progress. We must begin with the de- 
velopment of the physical capabilities of a country before 
we can expect from its inhabitants sufficient mental vigour 
to receive and understand the truths of our religion. T 
have met with many Christian missionaries, of various 
and conflicting creeds, who have fruitlessly sown the seed 
of Christianity upon the barren soil of Africa ; but their 
labours were ill-timed, they were too early in the field, the 
soil is unprepared ; the missionary, however earnest, must 
wait until there be some foundation for a superstructure. 
Eaise the level of the waters, and change the character of 
the surrounding deserts : this will also raise the intellectual 
condition of the inhabitants by an improvement in the 
natural conditions of their country 

The first portion of our task was completed. We had 
visited all the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, including the 
great Blue Nile that had been traced to its source by 
Bruce. The difficult task still lay before us — to penetrate 
the unknown regions in the distant south, to discover the 
White Nile source.*' Speke and Grant were on their road 
from Zanzibar, cutting their way upon untrodden ground 
towards Gondokoro. Petherick's expedition to assist them 

* The account of the "Wliite Nile voyage, with the happy meeting of 
Captains Speke and Grant, and the subsequent discovery of the " Albert 
N'yanza," has been already given in the work of that title. 



CH. XXII.] PREPARE TO LISCOFER NILE SOURCE. 389 

had met with misfortune, and we trusted to be able to 
reach the equator, and perhaps to meet our Zanzibar ex- 
plorers somewhere about the sources of the Nile. Although 
we had worked hard throughout all seasons, aver an im- 
mense extent of country, we were both strong and well, 
and the rest of some months at Khartoum had only served 
to inspire us with new vigour for the commencement of 
the work before us. By the 17th December, 1862, our pre- 
parations were compl,eted ; three vessels were laden with 
large quantities of stores — 400 bushels of corn, twenty- 
nine transport animals, including camels, donkeys, and 
horses (among the latter was my old hunter Tetel). Ninety- 
six souls formed my whole party, including forty well- 
armed men, with Johann Schmidt and Eicharn. On the 
18th December we sailed from Khartoum upon the White 
Nile towards its unknown sources, and bade farewell to 
the last vestige of law, government, and civilization. I 
find in my journal, the last words written at our departure 
upon this uncertain task, '' God grant us success ; if He 
"uides, I have no fear." 




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INDEX. 



Abderachman, Tokroori servant, 
intended pilgrimage of, to Mecca, 
237, 238 ; gi-atitude and affec- 
tion of, 239. 

Abdoolahi, Tokroori attendant, 
accident to, caused by rashness 
while riding a camel, and narrow 
escape of, 319. 

Abdul Azziz Company, steamers of, 
50. 

Abou Do, father of Abon Do Rous- 
soid, singular and picturesque 
appearance of, 201, 226 ; hippo- 
potamus harpooned by, 228 et 
seq. 

Abou Dome, village on the route to 
Khartoum, 374. 

Abou Do Roussoul, nephew of Sheik 
Owat, Hamran Arab, splendid 
appearance of, 191 ; joins Sir S. 
Baker's hunting party, 191 ; jea- 
lousy of, 239 ; covetousness of, 
272; dismissed from the party, ib. ; 
breaks a promise, 276 ; caught in 
the act, ib. ; disappointed in his 
prize, 277. 

Abou Hammed, arrival at, 10 ; bath 
at, 11 ; start from, 12 ; route 
from, along the Nile, ib. 

Abou Harraz, village on the banks 
of the Blue Nile, miserable ap- 
pearance of, 370 ; arrival at, ib. ; 
turning-point on the road from 
KatarifF to Khartoum, ib. ; at- 
tempt to obtain a boat at, to sail 
up the Blue Nile, 372 ; start from, 

Abre, a large village passed by the 
explorers, 48 ; halt near, on ac- 
count of Lady Baker's renewed 
attack of fever, ib. 



Abrev, food used by nomadic Arabs, 
363 ; fine quality of, 364. 

Abyssinia, mountain ranges of, 208, 
226, 271, 322 ; rivers of, 191 ; 
peculiar character of all rivers of, 
371 ; market of, 355. 

Abyssinian Alps, 226, 322. 

Abyssinian territory, frontier of, 
undetermined, 346 ; fairly quitted 
by the ti-aveller on arrival at Ra- 
had river, 355 ; protected from 
Egyptians by the English, 378 ; 
at the mercy of Egypt, ib. 

Acacia Arabica, Soorit, fruit of, used 
for tanning, 123 ; fallen trees of, 
obstructions on the Dinder river, 
358. 

Achmet, relative of Mahomet the 
dragoman, chosen by him as ser- 
vant, 58 ; bitten by a scorpion, 
71 ; theft by, and flight of, 141; 
last heard of, 289, note. 

Adansonia digiiata, homera tree, 
gigantic size of, 240 ; halt be- 
neath, for shelter, ib. ; fruit of, 
241 ; hollow trunk of, sometimes 
used as a reservoir for water, ib. 

Agates found in the desert, 42. 

Aggageers, 114 ; famed elephant 
sword-hunters, 117 ; party of, 
join Sir S. Baker, 191 ; appear- 
ance of, on starting for the hunt, 
201, 216 ; bloody intentions of, 
towards the Base tribe, 255 ; their 
wonderful knowledge of the coun- 
try, 217 ; lame the horses by 
reckless riding, 272 (see Hamran 
Arabs). 

Aggahr, name given to one of Sir 
S. Baker's horses, purchase of, 
]65 ; accident with, while huot- 
ing, 325; search for, ib. ; alartti 
of Lady Baker, caused by return 



392 



INDEX. 



of, without his rider, 326 ; death 
of, 353. 

Ali, son of Sheik Achmet Abou 
Sinu, reception of Sir S. Baker 
by, at Eufaar, 372 ; unpleasant 
manners of, 373. 

Allatakoora hill, great height of, 
270. 

Ambcitch \foodi{Anemone mirahilis), 
extreme lightness of, 121, 225 ; 
raft made of, 121 ; float or buoy 
of, fastened to the harpoon for 
hippopotamus hunting, 225. 

Amulets, moustaches of lions worn 
as, supposed protection from wild 
animals, 287. 

Ancient forts, vestiges of, on either 
side of the Nile, 1. 

Angarep, Arab bedstead, present of, 
from Achmet Wat el Negur, 194 ; 
comfort of, in a warm climate, 
125. 

Angrab river, tributary of the Nile, 
intention of Sir S. Baker to ex- 
plore, 191 ; assistance obtained 
ii-om Mek Nimmur in exploring, 
311 ; arrival at, 315 ; tracing the 
course of, from a high rock, ib. ; 
junction of, with the Salaam, 
316 ; extraordinary appearance 

. of, at the mouth, ih. ; example of 
the destructive effect of water on 
rocks, 317 ; effect of, on Nile, ih. 

Animals, of the desert, their places 
of resort in times of drought, 25 ; 
caution to be remembered after 
shooting, 260 ; habits of, all de- 
pend on the nature of the locali- 
ties they inhabit, 358. 

Ankoleep, species of dhurra or corn, 
sweetness of, 166. 

Annexation, principal object of, 52. 

Antelopes, many varieties of, 45 ; 
manner of stalking, 45, 59, 60 ; 
shooting of one, of a fine species, 
255 ; of another species, 261 ; 
skins of, how tanned and used, 
124 ; thirteen varieties of, seen 
by Sir S. Baker, 367 ; catalogue 
of different species, 368 et seq. 

Arabs, banks of the river occupied 
by, 24 ; appetite of, for raw meat, 
40, 260 J uniformity of dress 



among the tribes, 46 ; arrival and 
encampment of several hundreds 
round Sir S. Baker's fires, 47 ; 
evening prayers of, ib. ; applica- 
tions of, for medicine, 48 ; de- 
fence of their country by, against 
Egyptians, 51 ; ease with which 
they ride camels, 68 ; annual mi- 
grations of, 73, 74 et seq. ; ad- 
herence of, to ancient customs, 
87 ; strong religious feeling of, 
89 ; nomadic habits of, 88, 89 ; 
daily habits of, illustrate Old Tes- 
tament, 89 et seq. ; few require- 
ments of, 88 ; eagerness of, to see 
new arrivals, 98 ; faith in the 
Faky's or priest's power, 108 ; 
love for relics, 109 ; doctoring by, 
112 ; unpleasant way of showing 
honour to a guest, 155 ; custom 
of scarifying the cheeks, 186 ; 
hunting of (see Hamran Arabs). 

Arab girl, extraordinary escape of, 
from drowning, 175 e^ seq. 

Arabic language, necessity to the 
explorer of knowing, 15. 

Ariel {Gazelle Dama), first sight of, 
at Soojalup, 44 ; shooting of, 59 
et seq. 

Arrowroot, manufacture of, 194. 

Asdepias gigantea, plant, character 
of, 22 ; medicinally used in Cey- 
lon, ih. ; vegetable silk obtained 
from, ih. ; poisonous qualities of, 
causing blindness, ib. 

Assouan, difficulty and excessive 
laboui" in cultivating the soil 
of, 2. _ 

Atbara river, tributary of the Nile, 
start for the junction of, with the 
Nile, 18 ; route from Berber to, 
21, 22 ; arrivalat the junction of, 
with the Nile, 22 ; crossing the 
dry bed of, ib. ; start on the route 
along the margin of, 23 ; appear- 
ance and breadth of, ib. ; banks 
of, studded with dome palms, ib. ; 
deep pools of water left in the 
sharp bends of, asylums for all 
animals, 25 ; comparison of, with 
the Nile, ih. ; sudden and won- 
derful change in, caused by 
coming down of the river, 36 ; 



INDEX, 



393 



dry bed of, filled iu one uiglit 
with a mighty stream, 37 ; de- 

• parture from the course of, 42 ; 
return to the valley of, 62 ; com- 
mencement of descent to, ib. ; 
changed appearance of, ih. ; oc- 
currence of landslips, on the 
banks of, ib. ; Arab name of, 
" Bahr el Aswat," or Black river, 
why so called, ib. ; its maximum 
height reached, 106 ; dangers of 
crossing, from crocodiles, 64 ; 
crossing, on an impromptu raft, 
128 ; crossing, in sponging bath, 
140 ; start from, 147 ; last return 
to, at the sharp angle, where 
it issues from the mountains, 
338 ; insignificant appearance 
of, in its infancy, ib. ; power of, 
entirely dependent upon drain- 
age of Abyssinia, ib. ; different 
aspects in which seen, 317 ; last 
sight of, ib. ; exploration of, com- 
pleted, 338. 

Attendants, difficulty of procur- 
ing, 18 ; two Turkish, sent by 
Governor of Berber, ib. ; three 
procured at Cassala, 57, 59 ; diffi- 
culty of managing native, 236. 



B. 



Babanoose Wood, inflammability 
of, 135. 

Baboons, sharpness of, in avoiding 
a crocodile, 121 ; bold visits from, 
153 ; a herd of, hunting for ber- 
ries, 162 ; capture of, byHamran 
hunters, 208 ; whipped by the 
hunters, ib. 

" Baby " rifle, Arab nickname for, 
104 ; delight of the Arab hunters 
on seeing, 192 ; elephant killed 
by, 2.23. 

Bacheet, young Arab servant pro- 
cured at Cassala, 57 ; waits at 
table, 126 ; his love of sport, 147 ; 
skill of, in landing fish, 152, 156 ; 
turns coward, 172, 174 ; ridi- 
culed by the fair sex, 216. 

Baggar, name given to the finest 
species of fish in the Atbara, 



156 ; catching and landing, ib. ; 
salting, ib. 

Baker, Sir Samuel, his intention to 
examine the Nile tributaries,' 
191 ; slight attack of fever, 16 ; 
unpleasant situation of, having 
lost his way while stalking, 61 ; 
fire-arms carried by, 104; advan- 
tages to, from alliance with the 
Hamran sword-hunters, 120; his 
discussions with the sheik on 
women, &c. 178 et seq. ; with 
Fakeers, 181 ; his fame as a 
physician, 181, 182 ; his jungle 
surgery, 237; his "eligible free- 
hold residence," 102 ; his hunting 
Avith the aggageers (see Hunting) ; 
submits to Arab embraces, 188, 
238 ; threatens the deserting 
camel-men, 301 ; good health of, 
283 ; providential escape of, while 
cleaning rifles, 303 ; sends his 
card to Mek Nimmur, 306 ; sup- 
posed feats of, the subject of song, 
307 ; saves a camel that had fallen 
over a precipice, 320 ; narrow 
escape of, whUe riding Aggahr, 
325 ; his discussions with mis- 
sionaries at Gallabat, 341 e^ seq. ; 
administers justice in a case of 
robbery, 348, 349 ; accepts a 
challenge from an insolent native 
Tokroori, 351 ; pleasure of, on 
seeing the "British Lion," 376 ; 
observations of, on the resources 
of the Nile as an irrigator of 
Egypt, 380 et seq. 

Baker, Lady, illness of, at Moomhd, 
9 ; attacked by fever, 15 ; illness 
of, caused by arrival in the flooded 
country, 47 ; a riding camel chosen 
for, by El Baggar, 69 ; danger- 
ous attack of gastric fever at 
Sofi, 106 ; crosses the Atbara in 
a sponging bath, 140 ; assistance 
of, in camp arrangements and 
decorations, 105 ; kindness of, to 
tlie Arab women and children, 
181 ; prepares for an attack of a 
buff"alo, 211 ; kindness of, to the 
slave woman, 146, 289 ; fear of 
danger to, from the Base, 264 ; 
hyaena seen by, in the tent at 



394 



INDEX. 



night, 320 ; great alarm of, on 
seeing Aggahr return to the tent 
without his rider, 326. 

Bamboos, on the banks of the An- 
gi-ab, 316. 

Barrake, slave woman purchased by 
Sir Samuel Baker, 187 ; engage- 
ment with, ih. ; singularly mis- 
understands the duties expected 
of her, 188 ; illness of, from eat- 
ing fruit of the Hegleek tree, 249 ; 
death of, 289. 

Basalt rocks, appearance of, on the 
Settite river, 271 ; extraordinary 
appearance of, at the mouth of 
the An grab, 316 ; destructive 
effect of water seen on, ib. ; per- 
pendicular column of, with a 
waterfall, 336. 

Base tribe, origin of, unknown, 56 ; 
inroads made on the territory of, 
by Eg3^ptians, ih.; general opinion 
of the ferocity of, ib. ; hostility 
of, to all surrounding countries, 
ih. ; slaves, the only plunder ob- 
tained from, ih. ; valuable as allies 
to the Egyptians, 57 ; terror in- 
spired by, 204, 215, 264; their 
fear of firearms, 255 ; rumours of 
expected attacks from, 270, 272 ; 
hunting in the country of (see 
Hunting) ; enjoyment of exploring 
the country of, 300. 

Basket-work, cleverness of Arab 
women in, 125. 

Bathing of Arab women, mode of, 
180. 

Bayard, fishing for, 146. 

Bazaar at Katarifif, Manchester and 
German goods sold at, 184 ; 
amusing scenes at, 185. 

Bedouins, 79 ; many tribes claim 
to be descended from, ih. 

Bees, fondness of, for the hollow 
trunks of homera trees, 241. 

" Belgravia " of Khartoum, 376. 

Berber, town on the Nile, arrival 
at, 13 ; description of, ih. ; kind 
reception given by the governor 
or Mudir of, 14 ; hospitality of 
Halleem Effendi, former governor, 
13 ; surrounded by well-culti- 
vated gardens, ib. ; water of the 



Nile made use of for irrigation at, 
14 ; visit from the governor of, 
ih. ; departure from, at sunset, 
21. 

Birds, brilliant colours of, change 
122 ; nest-building of, 152 ; mi 
grations of, 159 ; swarms of, on 
bushes beside Atbara river, 162 
way of drinking, ib. ; constant 
pursuit of small, by falcons and 
hawks, ib. 

Birds of prey (see Vultures). 

Bishareen Arabs, desert north of 
Atbara occupied by, 27 ; fire-arms 
imknown to, 28 ; peculiar mode 
of wearing their hair, 40 ; taxes 
paid by, ih. ; dislike of, to Tur- 
Idsh soldiers, ib. ; difficulty of 
procuring supplies from, how 
overcome, 41. 

Bivouac, evening, 93 ; jungle should 
be avoided for, at night, 205 ; 
coverlets, used for, of ox-hides, 
350. 

Blood-stones found in the desert, 
42 ; large masses of, on the hills 
on the route from Ombrega, 305. 

Blue Nile, junction of Binder with, 
370 ; of Rahad with, ih. ; arrival 
at the banks of, 371 ; grand ap- 
pearance of, opposite Abou Hai-- 
raz, 372 : clearness of the water, 
reason of the name, 373 ; un- 
navigable in many places, ib. ; 
ferry across to Khartoum, a, 375 

Boa constrictor (python), escape of 
a, 161. 

Boar, encounter with a, 224 ; Ric- 
harn wounded by a, ih. 

Boat, difficulty of procuring, on the 
Nile, 372. 

Bolognesi (Signor Angelo), Italian 
merchant, meeting with, at Galla- 
bat, 340. 

Boorkatan, table mountain, de- 
scription of interesting country 
near, 270. 

Boulti, species of perch caught at 
Collodobad, 31 ; mention made 
of, by Bruce the traveller, ib. ; 
use of, as bait, 145. 

Boxes, for rough travelling should 
be of japanned metal, 365. 



INDEX. 



395 



Breech-loaders, luxury of, 365 ; why 
not well suited for damp climates, 
ib. 

Bruce, Abyssinian traveller, dread 
entertained by, of sand columns, 
17 ; Blue Nile traced to its source 
by, 388. 

Buffaloes, hunt and capture of, 210 
et seq. ; value of a young one taken 
alive, as a zoological specimen, 
212 ; shooting of, 258 ; carcase 
of, used as bait for lions, 279 ei 
seq. ; flesh of, not suited for dry- 
ing, 364 ; some hundreds killed 
by Sir S. Baker, 365 ; not so for- 
midable as elephants or rhino- 
ceros, 364. 

Bullets, making of, 193 ; different 
kinds of, 367. 

Buoy for floating cargo across the 
river, of a tetel's skin, 137. 

Burning-glass, use of, to a traveller, 
251, 366. 

Butter, enormous consumption of, 
by Sheik Abou Sinn, 80 ; for 
cooking purposes, what made of, 
288. 

Buzzards, attracted by fire, boldness 
of, 160. 



C. 



Cairo, boat voyage from, 1 ; ex- 
tracts from journal written during 
voyage from, 1 et seq. 

Camels, feeding of, 6 ; ** camel's 
grave " at Moorahd, 7 ; skeletons 
of, in the desert, 11 ; death of one 
in the desert, 12 ; support re- 
quired for, in swimming, 48, 64 ; 
one drowned, 48 ; theft of, 64 ; 
difficulty of procuring, 57 ; un- 
pleasantness of, for riding, com- 
pared with dromedaries, 68 ; ease 
with which Arabs ride, ib. ; mi- 
gration of, in rainy season, 74 ; 
milk of, ib. ; flight of one from a 
lion, 285 ; one hundred and two 
stolen by Mek Nimmur's foraging 
party, 305 ; narrow escape of one, 
from a fall, 348 ; torture of, by 
flies, on a march, 356. 

Camel-drivers, abscond with camels, 



64 et seq. ; refusal to enter ^Mek 
Nimmur's territory, 301 ; forced 
submission of, 302 ; robbery by 
one, 348. 

Camp, purchase of a new permanent, 
at Sofi, 102 ; furniture of, 104, 
102; conveniences of, 102 et seq. ; 
pleasant life in, 146, 147 ; danger 
to, from firing the grass, 265. 

Canoe, failure in launching, 121. 

Carriage, expenses of, 13, 185. 

Cassala, capital of Taka country, 
situation of, 42 ; depot for Egyp- 
tian troops, and military supplies, 
ib ; route from Atbara river to, 
42 et seq. ; arrival at, 48 ; respect 
paid by the governor of, to the 
firman, 49 ; hospitality expe- 
rienced at, ib. ; visit from Elias 
Bey, the governoi-, ib. ; possibility 
of a more direct route to, 50 ; 
bazaar in, 51 ; fortifications of, 
useless against cannon, ib. ; neigh- 
bourhood of, well adapted for a 
military station, 55 ; start from, 
57. 

Cassala mountain, appearance and 
height of, 48. 

Catalogue des especes du genre anti- 
lope, 368 e^ seq. 

Centaurs, likeness of Arab hunters 
to, 202. 

Ceylon, plan of shooting in, 198 ; 
habits of elephants in, 359 ; former 
irrigation of, compared to present, 
385 et seq. 

Ceylon rifles, giraffes shot with, 
132, 134. 

"Chickens," Tokroori, 352. 

Chimbane, deadly instrument of war 
used by the Tokrooris, or Ma- 
hometan negroes, 346. 

Church, Abyssinian, danger of dis- 
union in, by introduction of fresh 
doctrine among the natives, 341. 

Civilization, pleasure of returning 
to, after wild life, 375 ; dependent 
ou the physical condition of a 
country, 384 et seq. 

Cliffs, beautiful colours of, at Geera, 
166. 

Coffee, camel's milk unsuited for, 
74 ; luxury of, when halting, 



396 



INDEX. 



92 ; largely exchanged by Abys- 
sinian merchants at Gallabat for 
cotton, 340 ; cheapness of, ih. 

Coin, current among the Arabs, 120 ; 
Austrian dollar of Maria Theresa 
the favourite, ih. 

CoUodobad, deepest and largest pool 
of water on the Atbara, at, 26 ; 
halt at, ib. ; distress of Arabs 
congregated at, from scarcity of 
food, 27 ; hippopotami reported 
to be first seen at, ib. ; search for, 
and shooting of two, ib. et seq. ; 
savage delight of the Arabs over 
their carcases, 30 ; and gratitude 
to Sir S. Baker for the supply of 
food, 31. 

Commissariat, arrangement of, for 
the march, 364. 

Compass, found useful to Sir S. 
Baker, 61 ; desire of the Tokrooris 
to consult, 356 ; their name for, ib. 

Conical projectiles, velocity of, 367 ; 
facility of loading with, ib. ; dis- 
advantages of, to the hunter, ib. 

Consulate, English, at Khartoum, 
arrival at, 376 ; menagerie of 
wild beasts in, 377 et seq. 

Coor fish, description of, 154. 

Coorbatch, Arab whip of hippopo- 
tamus hide, used for camels, 68 ; 
use of, in love-making and ma- 
trimony, ^Q ; made by Florian, 
100. 

Copper, evidences of the presence 
of, 305 ; water poisoned by, 311. 

Corn, 355 (see Dhurra). 

Cornelian, white, abundance of, 
seen on the hills passed on the 
route from Ombre ga, 304, 

Cotton, capabilities of country for 
cultivation of, 46, 50, 123, 170, 
347, 355, 386; use of, by Arabs, 46; 
weaving of, by Arabs, ib. ; in the 
market of Gallabat, produced by 
Tokrooris, 346 ; how the supply 
of, might be increased by irriga- 
tion, 386 ; by emigration of To- 
krooris from Darfur, 347. 

Crocodiles, warning against, while 
fishing, by Arabs, 31 ; shooting, 
36, 64 et seq. ; men killed by, 
when crossing the river, 64, 159 ; 



flesh of, used as food, ^^ ; one 
found far from water, 153 ; party 
of women attacked by, 163 ; cun- 
ning of, ib. ; peculiar mode of 
stalking, 266 ; most dangerous 
kind found in the Dinder river, 
357. 
Cucumis colocynthis, withered me- 
lons, bitter taste of, 6 ; medicinal 
use of, by Arabs, ib. 



D. 



Dabainas, Arab tribe, 79 ; in- 
tended razzia upon, by Mek 
Mmmur's men, 303. 

Darfur, inhabitants of, prized as 
slaves, 186 ; Tokrooris, natives 
of, 344 ; why impenetrable to 
civilization, ib. ; unfruitfulness 
of, ib. ; emigration from, should 
be encoui"aged, 347. 

Delladilla, forest on the margin of 
the Settite river, encampment at, 
252, 253 ; pleasantness of, for a 
camp, 253, 282 ; furthest spot 
visited by Europeans, 264 ; en- 
campment removed from, sixteen 
miles farther up, ib. ; return to, 
277 ; abundance of game found 
at, ib. ; buffaloes and lions shot 
at, 278 et seq. ; healthiness of, 
283 ; death of Barrake at, 289 ; 
camp removed from, ib. et seq. 

Delta of Lower Eg3rpt, how formed, 
338. 

Desert country, suff"ering of animals 
in, 7 et seq. ; comfort of travelling 
by the bank of a river in, 26. 

" Devil's horse," Arab's name for 
secretary bird, 42. 

Dhurra grain, use of, for camel's 
food, 7 ; price of, 52 ; sowing of, 
ib. ; bread of, 55 ; analysis of, by 
Professor Johnstone, ih. ; capa- 
bilities of the country for culti- 
vation of, 54. 

Dik-dik, very small antelope, QQ. 

Dinder river, tributary of the Nile. 
Sir S. Baker's intention to ex- 
plore, 191 ; course of, parallel 
with the Rahad, 354 ; arrival at, 
357 ; banks of, thronged with 



INDEX. 



397 



Kunana Arabs, ih. ; similarity 
of, to Rahacl, ih. ; trees in the 
vicinity of, ib. ; dangerous croco- 
diles found in, ih. ; maneless lion 
found on the banks of, 358 ; ob- 
structions on, to rapid navigation, 
ih. ; monotony of the journey 
along the banks of, 357, 370. 

Dochan, grain, species of millet, 
cultivation of, 166. 

Dogs, one carried off by a leopard, 
205 ; Arabs' cure for distemper 
in, 113. 

Dome palms, found on the banks of 
the Atbara river, 23 ; description 
of, and uses of, ih. ; preparation 
of food from fruit of, 24 ; Arabs 
chiefly supported by the fruit of, 
in times of scarcity, ih. ; only 
shade on the route along the 
mai-gin of the river afforded by, ih. 

Dongalowas, Florian's attendants, 
250. 

Dragoman (see Mahomet). 

Drainage, entire want of. In flat 
country between Gozerajup and 
Cassala, 45 ; of the mountains 
the cause of the sudden rise of 
Nile and Atbara, 271. 

Dromedary, riding camel (see Hy- 
geen). 



E. 



Eggs, omelettes of turtle's, 253 ; 
cheapness of, in the country near 
the Rahad river, 356. 

Egypt, a new, formed beneath the 
Mediterranean, by deposits washed 
down by the Settite river, 338, 
381 ; revenues of Upper, might 
be increased by establishment of 
Tokroori colonies, 347 ; arrival 
on the soil of Upper, at Rahad 
river, 355 ; imgation of, 382 et 
seq. ; and magnificent possible 
results to, of irrigation, 385, 387. 

Egyptians, conquest of Arab tribes 
^y, 51 ; indifference of, to future 
well-being of conquered races, 
52 ; changes in their government 
of conquered Arab tribes since 
Sir S. Baker's visit to the country. 



ib. ; government of, why mis- 
trusted by the Arabs, 52, 53 ; 
taxes, how raised, 53 ; warfare 
with Mek Nimmur, 189 d seq. ; 
312; called "Turks," by the 
neighbouring tribes, 312 ; Mai 
Gubba, head-quarters of Mek 
Nimmur, destroyed by, 300. 

Egyptian troops, destroyed by thirst 
in crossing the Nubian desert, 9, 
10 ; soldier murdered by an Arab, 
160 ; twenty thousand, generally 
kept in the Soudan, 379 ; princi- 
pal stations of, ih. 

Ehetilla, Arab name for the spot of 
Sir S. Baker's encampment op- 
posite Sofi, on the Atbara river, 
147 ; description of encampment 
at, 144 ; crossing the river to 
reach, 140 et seq. ; charmingly 
independent life at, 147 ; shoot- 
ing and fishing at, extracts from 
journal describing, 147 et seq. ; 
move from, to Wat el Negur, 168. 

El Baggar, black servant given by 
Governor of Cassala, renown of, 
as a sportsman, 59 ; his selection 
of a riding-camel for Lady Baker, 
69. 

Electricity, in hair and woollen 
materials, prodiiced by heat and 
dryness of the air, curious effect 
of, 12. 

Elephants, hunting by aggageers, 

117 etseq. ; at Wat el Negur, 173 
et seq. ; in Tooleet jungle, 197 ; 
of a bull, at Ombrega, 206, 207 ; 
close aud dangerous fight with a 
bull, by aggageers, sword in hand, 
218, 219 ; discovery of a herd of, 
220 ; one killed by the "Baby" 
rifle, 223 ; seven killed by Sir S. 
Baker's hunting party in one 
day, 224 ; hunters chased by one, 
294 ; dangerous encounter with 
one, 295 et seq. ; shooting, 324 ct 
seq. ; horses used in hunting them, 

118 ; dangers of hunting, 119 ; 
dead carcases of, found drowned, 
122 ; eagerness of the people over 
a dead one, ib. ; cunning of, 170 ; 
damage done by, to dhurra fields, 
ib. ; difficulty of tracking, 217 



398 



INDEX. 



herds of, near the Dinder, never 
found so large as were expected, 
358; description of, Z6^etseq. ; dis- 
tinguishing features of Indian and 
African, 359, 360 ; measurements 
of, 360 ; ear of, used as a mat, ih. ; 
harmlessness of, a mistaken idea, 
ih. ; African most dangerous, ih.; 
one killed by sword when shot 
failed, 222 ; shot in the forehead 
proved not fatal to Afiican, ih. ; 
encounter with, by aggageers, 
without fire-arms, 233 ; Jali's leg 
broken by one, 234 ; flesh of, dis- 
agreeable for food, 231 ; foot and 
trunk of, excellent as food, 361 ; 
how to make use of the fat of, 
362 ; tusks of, why difficult to 
obtain an exact pair, 361. 

Elias Bey, governor of Cassala, fir- 
man kissed by, 49 ; visit from, ih. 

Emigration of Tokrooris from Dar- 
fur, advantages of encouraging it, 
347. 

Encampment, in the garden of 
Halleem Eflfendi, outside Berber, 
13 ; on the banks of Atbara at 
Collodobad, 27; at Cassala among 
wild fig-trees, 49 ; on the Atbara 
at Goorashee, 67 ; at Sofi, with a 
new camp, 102 ; removal of, to 
the high plateau on the opposite 
bank at Ehetilla, 142, 144 ; at 
"Wat el Negur, 168 ; on an island 
in the Settite river, 213 ; at Del- 
ladilla, in the Base country, 252 
et seq. ; under tamarind trees, at 
Ombrega, 301 ; in Mek Mmmur's 
territory, 305 ; on the banks of 
the Salaam river, 315. 

England, power of, in protecting 
the Abyssinian territory, 378. 

Etiquette, Arab, 77. 

European acquaintances made by 
Sir S. Baker in Africa almost all 
dead, 251 ; goods sold at bazaar, 
at KatarifF, 184 ; pleasure of 
meeting with, at Gallabat, 341. 

Exodus, yearly, Arabs' enjoyment 
of, 75. 

Expedition to explore the jS'ile 
tributaries and Base country, 
commencement of, 3 ; launch 



into the Kubian desert, 4»; route 
across the desert, 4 et seq. ; halt 
at Moorahd, 7 ; dreadful route 
from Korosko to Abou Hammed, 
11 ; sight of the Nile, ih. ; start from 
Abou Hammed, 12 ; route along 
the margin of the Nile,^^.; arrival 
at the town of Berber, 13 ; hos- 
pitable reception by the governor 
and Halleem Eflfendi, 13 et seq. ; 
a week's rest in the gardens, 15 ; 
visit to Lady Baker of Turkish 
ladies, 16 ; start from Berber to 
Atbara river, 18 ; trouble with 
the dragoman, and amusing scenes 
in consequence, 20 et seq. ; arrival 
at junction of the Atbara with the 
Nile, 22 ; crossing the dry bed of 
the Atbara, ih. ; appearance of the 
river, 23 ; start on the route along 
the margin, ih. ; intense heat 
during the march, 25 ; comfort 
of travelling along the banks of 
a river in the desert, 26 ; arrival 
at the large pool of Collodobad, 
ih. ; encampment at Collodobad, 
27 ; hippopotamus-shooting at 
Collodobad, 29 et seq. ; fishing, 
SI et seq. ; shooting gazelles, 34, 
35 ; nearly suffocated by a whirl- 
wind, 36 ; crocodile-shooting, ih. ; 
sudden change on the Atbara, 36 
et seq. ; start from Collodobad, 
38 ; route along the margin of 
Atbara continued, 39 et seq. ; 
pyramidical hills at Gozerajup, 
42 ; change of route, Atbara river 
left, 41 ; arrival at limits of Nu- 
bian desert, 43 ; arrival at Sooja- 
lup, 44 ; fertility of the country, 
ih. ; abundance of game, ih. ; 
halt in the flooded country, on 
account of illness of Lady Baker, 
47 ; visit of crowds of Arabs 
round the camp fires, ih. ; Sir S. 
Baker gets fame as a physician, 
47 ; arrival at Cassala, 48 ; hospi- 
tality of Malem Georgis, a Greek 
merchant, 49 ; residence at Cas- 
sala, ih. ; description of, and 
country near, 50 et seq. ; informa, 
tion acquired concerning Base 
tribe, their rumoured ferocity. 



INDEX. 



399 



54, 55 ; start from Cassala, cross- 
ing the Gash river, 59 ; march to 
rejoin the Atbara, ih. et seq. ; 
arrival at valley of Atbara, 62 ; 
descent to the river, ih. ; encamp- 
ment on the banks, 63 ; violent 
delnge of rain, ih. ; crocodile- 
shooting, 64 et seq. ; encampment 
at Goorashee, 67 ; procuring hy- 
geens or riding camels, 68 e^ seq. ; 
start from Goorashee, 70 ; halt 
on account of a coming storm, 
71 ; discovery of scorpions, ih. 
72 ; continuation of march along 
Atbara river, 73 ct seq. ; com- 
mencement of rainy season, ih. ; 
its effect on the country, ih. ; 
meeting with natives migrating 
to the north, ih. ; arrival at the 
camp of Sheik Abou Sinn, the 
great Arab patriarch, 75 ; visit 
from the sheik, 76 et seq. ; an 
Arab welcome, 77 et seq. ; arrival 
at head-quarters of Sheik Atakn 
Wat Said, and hospitable recep- 
tion by, 93, 94 ; information ob- 
tained about Mek ISTimmur, the 
Leopard King, 95 ; arrival at 
the junction of the Settite with 
the Atbara, 94 ; escorted to Soli, 
by Atalan Wat Said, 97 ; meet- 
ing with Florian the German, 
98 ; permanent encampment at 
Sofi, 102 et seq. ; meeting with 
Hamran Arab sword-hunters, or 
aggageers, 114; engagement with 
some, to join the hunting party, 
ih. et seq. ; exploits of the sword- 
hunters, 117 et seq. ; extracts 
from journal describing Sir S. 
Baker's life at Sofi, 120 et seq. ; 
cross to opposite side of river, 
and encampment at EhetiUa, 140, 
141 et seq. ; life at Ehetilla, ex- 
tracts from journal, descriptive 
of, 147 et seq. ; excursion from 
Ehetilla for shooting, 147 et seq. ; 
fishing near the mouth of the 
Till, 150 e;; seq. ; remove to Wat 
el Negur, 169 ; preparations made 
for hunting expedition in the 
Base country, 186, 193; purchase 
and engagement of a slave woman, 



186 ; engagement of Tokrooris 
or Mahometan negroes, ih. ; 
discussions with Sheik Wat el 
Negur on women, 178 et seq. ; 
with Fakeers, 181 ; shooting and 
hunting with the Arab sword- 
hunters, 196 et seq. ; encamp- 
ment on an island in the Settite 
river, 213 ; hunting, <fec. in the 
Base country, 196 ct seq. (see 
Hunting) ; hippopotamus har- 
pooning, 227 et seq. ; encamp- 
ment at Delladilla forest, 252 ; 
start along the upward course of 
the Royan, 292 ; encampment at 
Ombrega, 301 ; arrival and stay 
in Mek Is'immur's territory, 305 
et seq. ; visit of minstrels to the 
camp, 306 ; arrival at Salaam and 
Angrab rivers, 315 ; shooting in 
the country round, 316 e^ seq. ; 
march again to the Atbara, 336 ; 
reach it where it issues from the 
hills, 337 ; last look of it from 
Toganai village, 338 ; exploration 
of Atbara completed, ih. ; leave 
the village of Toganai and arrive 
at Gallabat, market-town, 339 ; 
encampment at, and meeting with 
Europeans, 340, 341 ; a stroll 
through the market, 340 ; march 
from Gallabat to tlie river Rahad, 
doO et seq, ; death of two horses 
at Roumele, 353 ; exhausting 
march from Roumele to Rahad 
river, and monotony of the 
country on the route, ih. ; ex- 
treme thirst of the men, ih. ; 
reach the banks of the Rahad, ih. ; 
route along the banks, monotony 
of, 354 et seq. ; start from Rahad 
to the Binder, 356 ; march along 
the banks of the Dinder, 357 ; 
arrive at Abou Harraz, on the 
Blue Nile, 370 ; unsuccessful at- 
tempt to procure a boat to sail to 
Khartoum, 372 ; route along the 
Nile to Khartoum, fearful heat 
of, 374 ; inhospitality of the 
Arabs met with, ih. ; cunning of 
a Faky, ih. ; hospitable reception 
at Rufaar, head quarters of Sheik 
Abou Sinn, 372 ; arrival at Abou 



400 



INDEX. 



Dome, and view of Khartoum, 
375 ; ferry across the Blue Nile, 
ib. ; pleasure of returning to 
civilization, ib, ; residence in the 
British consulate, ib. et seq. ; ob- 
servations on the rivers by the 
explorer, 381 et seq. 



F. 



Faith, the Arab's cure for all com- 
plaints, 108. 
Fakeer, Faky, or priest, numerous 
applications to, for all maladies, 
108 ; the only Arab M.D., ib. ; 
the Koran his complete pharma- 
copoeia, ib. ; reverence for the 
dead body of a, 111 ; grave of a 
Faky at Soft, 111 e^ seq. ; theo- 
logical discussions of Sir S. Baker 
with, 181 ; religious belief of, 
ib. ; instance of cunning and in- 
hospitality of a, 374. 
Falcons, small birds constantly 

pursued by, 162. 
Family tree, Mahomet's, incalculable 

extent of, 58. 
Fat, great desideratum of Arabs, 
80 ; used for head dressing, ib. ; 
effect upon, of a journey in the 
desert, 81 ; necessary for the 
skin in hot climates, 87 ; of 
elephants, how to use, 362. 
Fazogle, mines of gold worked at, 

by Egyptian Government, 67. 
Feasts, holy, of Arabs, 138. 
Ferry across the Atbara, 63 ; across 
the Blue Nile at Khartoum, 375. 
Fever, slight attacks of, 16, 47, 48 ; 
severe attack of, I-ady Baker at 
Sofi, 106 ; cured by quinine, 49 ; 
causes of, 47, 155, 379. 
Fight, dangerous sword-in-hand, of 
aggageers, with an elephant, 219 ; 
with native Tokrooris, 351. 
Fig-trees, wild, at Cassala, 49. 
Firing the grass, difficulty of, 261 ; 
the camp endangered by, 265 ; on 
the banks of the Royan, 298. 
Firman, procured from the Viceroy, 
3 ; kissed by Elias Bey, 49 ; a 
never-failing talisman, 57 ; not 



respected by Jemma, a Tokroori 
sheik, 343. 
Fish eagle, daring feat of a, 28. 
Fishing, at CoUodobad, 31 et seq. ; 
difficulty of procuring bait for, 
in the desert, 31 ; excitement of, 
in the Atbara pools, ib. ; near 
the mouth of the Till, 145 ; ex- 
citing run, 150etseq. ; for baggar, 
156, 157. 
Florian, German settler at Sofi, 
welcome of, 98 ; stone house be- 
longing to, 98 ; why settled at 
Sofi, 100; means of living, ib. ; 
valuable information given by, 
regarding seasons, 101 ; agrees to 
accompany the hunting expedi- 
tion, ib ; illness of, at Sofi, 106 ; 
horse purchased by, 194 ; first 
attempt at mounting, 195 ; severe 
illness of, 250 ; death of, killed 
by a lion, 251. 
Fowls, cheapness of, 356 ; presents 
of, brought by the women of Sofi, 
181. 
Fox traps, usefulness of, to the 
traveller in catching night game, 
366. 
Francolin partridges, five brace 
shot, 291 ; excellence of, as game, 
ib. ; might be shot in hundreds 
near the Salaam, 323. 
Frendeet, painful disease, caused 
by drinking the water accumu- 
lated in pools during the rainy 
season, 183. 



G, 



Galena, veins of, found, 254. 

Galla, extreme Iseauty of native 
women of, 349 ; sold for Turkish 
harems, ib. 

Gallabat, frontier market-town of 
Abyssinia, 327 ; arrival at, 339 ; 
curiosity of the natives, ib. ; mar- 
ket at, ib. ; disgusting appearance 
of the water at, ib. ; visit from 
Jusef, Abyssinian merchant, 340; 
principal trade of, ib. ; meeting 
with Signer Bolognesi, Italian 
merchant, ib. ; with two German 



INDEX. 



401 



niissionaries, 341 ; visit to the 
Sheik, 343. 

Galton (Mr. Francis^, advice given 
by, for crossing a deep river with 
a horse, 256. 

Game {see Hunting) ; scarcity of, 
on the route along Rahad and 
Binder rivers, 357 ; different 
bullets required for, 367. 

Game paths made by animals going 
to drink, 273. 

Gardens of Halleem Effendi, on the 
outskirts of Berber, 13 ; artificial 
irrigation of, 14; camp in, ih. ; 
departure from, 18. 

Garra, fruit of the Acacia Arabica, 
use of in tanning, 124 ; ink made 
from, 357. 

Gash, or Mareb river, course of, 47 ; 
country near Cassala flooded by, 
ih. ; difficulty of fording, 48 ; 
course of, turned by Egyptians, 
51 ; recrossing of, 59 ; water of, 
should be filtered during rainy 
season, 55. 

Gazelles, two seen on the route from 
Moorahd to Abou Hammed, 10 ; 
stalking of buck, 34 ; habits and 
beauty of, 34, 35 ; difference be- 
tween, and those confined in tem- 
j^erate regions, ih. ; coarse food 
of, ih. ; flesh of, chief support in 
the desert, 35 ; skins of, used for 
girbas, ih. 

Gazelle, name ol one of Sir S. 
Baker's horses, purchase of, 165 ; 
death of, 353. 

Geera, cliffs of, appearance of 
the Settite river between, 167 ; 
arrival at, 195 ; start from, for 
the Base country, 201. 

Geese (wild), on the Atbara river, 
23 ; shooting of, 28, 66 ; paiiing 
of, 38. 

German, settler at Sofi, delight of, 
at seeing Europeans, 98 ; mis- 
sionaries at Gallabat, 341 ; goods 
sold at Kataritt' market, 184. 

Gerrarat, stronghold of JSIek Nim- 
mur, destruction of, 166 ; curious 
situation of, ih. 

Giraffes, flocks of, seen, 120, 123 ; 
difficult stalking of, 128 et seq. 



133 ; shooting of, 131 ; statue- 
like appearance of, 130 ; beauty 
of, 131 ; retreat of a herd, ib. ; 
extraordinary power of vision the 
defence of, ih. ; steaks of, 135 ; 
flesh of, devoured by lions, 138. 

Girbas, water-sacks, preparation of, 
35 ; one swallowed by a crocodile 
in mistake for a woman, 163. 

Glands of the crocodile, ornaments 
of, worn by women, 6Q ; musk 
found in, ib. 

Goats, purchase of, 1 95 ; one killed 
by a leopard, 205 ; eat the poison- 
ous plant, Asclepias gigantea. 

God, Arab's reverence for, 89. 

Gold, found in the sand of the At- 
bara, 67 ; mines for, at Fazogle, 
ii>. ; dust, common in the sand in 
the ravines, 312. 

Goorashee, ferry to, 63 ; cotton farm 
of Malem Georgis at, ih. ; en- 
campment at, &1 ; gold found in 
Atbara river at, ih. 

Gourds, use of shells of, for cups 
and ladles, 164, 355 ; camel-loads 
of, met on the road to Gallabat, 
354. 

Government of conquered tribes by 
Egyptians, 52. 

Governor of Berber, visit from, 14 ; 
surprise of, on hearing the object 
of expedition, ih. ; friendship of, 
how proved, 18. 

Gozerajup, large permanent village, 
arrival at, 40 ; description of, ih. ; 
four pjramidical hiUs of granite 
opposite to, 42. 

Granite, pyramidical hills of, at 
Gozerajup, 42 ; Cassala, moun- 
tain of, 48 ; hills of, 254. 

Grass, two species of, 143 ; impos- 
sible to walk over w»hen ripe, ib. 
160 ; enormous height of, in the 
jungle, 210 ; firing of, 260 et seq. 
298 ; should always be cleared 
away round the camp when dry, 
265. 

Grave, camel's, at Moorahd, 7 ; 
Faky's, 111 et seq. ; of Johann 
Schmidt, 250. 

Greeks, hospitality of, at Cassala, 
49. 

D D 



4G2 



IND-EX. 



Greyhounds, use of, in coursing ga- 
zelles, 34. 

Gaddabi, nearest village to the Sa- 
laam, 327 ; country round, ih. 

Guide, desert, unquestioned autho- 
rity of, 6. 

Guinea-fowl, abundance of, 93 ; 
jungles full of, 44. 

Guitars, generally made of turtle - 
sheU, 139. 

Gum-arabic, varieties of, from mi- 
mosa tree, 50 ; beautiful appear- 
ance of, 241. 



H. 



Hadam, Arab name for working 
tusk of an elephaiit, 361. 

Hadendowa Arabs, character of, 43 ; 
conquest of, by Mehemet Ali 
Pasha, ih. ; country of, ib. ; chief 
of, imprisoned by Egyptians, 52. 

Hadji Achmet, Turkish servant, 
provided by the Governor of Ber- 
ber, 18 ; sent back to Berber, 49. 

Hadji Velli, Turkish servant, pro- 
vided by the Governor of Berber, 
18 ; return of, to Berber, 38. 

Hailstones, remains of, in Nubian 
desert. 5. 

Hair of Arabs, Bishareen's mode of 
dressing, 41; distinction of tribes, 
chiefly known by mode of dress- 
ing, 79 e?; seq. ; pomade for, 80 ; 
dyeing of, 83 ; elaborate dressing, 
by Arab women, ih. 

Hallonga tribe, allies of Hadendowa 
tribe in the war with Egyptians, 
43. 

Hallowa mountain, unmistakeable 
landmark, 353. 

Halt in the desert, 6. 

Hamed, former Sheik of Gallabat, 
imprisonment of, by Egyptians, 
344; battle with Jemma, ih. ; ap- 
peal of, to Egypt for assistance, 
ih. ; Theodore's decision in con- 
sequence, ih. 

Hamran Arabs, aggageers, or ele- 
phant sword-hunters, 114 etseq.; 
distinguishing features of, 114, 
115 ; weapons of, 115, 116 ; in- 
terview of, with Sir S. Baker, 117 ; 



advantages to Sir S. Baker of an 
alliance with, 120 ; party of, join 
the hunting expedition, 191 ; 
splendid appearance of some, ih. ; 
extraordinary feats of, 119 ; hunt- 
ing with, 201 e^ seq. (see Hunting 
mid. Aggageers.) 

Harpoon, dexterous use of, by Abou 
Do, 201 ; description of, 22^ 
hippopotamus-hunting with, 2L^ 
et seq. ; 267 et seq. 

Hawks, small birds constantly pur- 
sued by, 162. 

Heat, suflering from, 4 ; terrific, at 
Moorahd, 8 ; on the route along 
the margin of the Atbara, 25 ; on 
the route from Abou Harraz to 
Khartoum, 374 ; evaporation of 
water from water-skins caused by, 
4 ; effect of, on paper, &c. &c., 
12, 13. 

Hegleek tree [Balanites ^gyptiaca), 
fruit of, 249 ; burnt wood of, 
used as soap, ih. 

Henna plant, its character, 3. 

Heuglin, Herr Von, expedition of, 
in search of Dr. Vogel, 367 ; ca- 
talogue made by, 368 et seq. 

Hippopotamus, search for, at CoUo- 
dobad, 28, 29 ; men killed by, 
27, 159 ; shooting of, by Sir S. 
Baker, 29 et seq. ; shooting of 
large bull, 36 ; a good shot at, 
172 ; number killed by Florian, 
101 ; harpooning of, by Abou 
Do, 228 et seq. ; harpooning of, 
266 et seq. ; character and habits 
of, 231 et seq. ; teeth of, 38 ; 
value of tusks of, 232 ; wonder- 
ful speed of, in escaping hunters, 
229, 231. 

Hoe (Dutch), use of, a similar im- 
plement in Soudan, 53. 

Holioway's pills, why of value tc 
the traveller, 47. 

Holy shrines, pest spots of the 
world, infectious disorders gene- 
rally traced to, 110 etseq. 

Homera tree (see Adansonia digi- 
tata). 

Honey, abundance of, in rocks and 
hollow trees, 337. 

Hor Mai Gubba, or Nabbuk river, 



INDEX. 



403 



niouutain torrent, tributary of 
the Royan, 290 ; encanipmeut 
uear, ib. 

Horns, annulated, of the buck ga- 
zelle, 34 ; of rhinoceros, great 
protection to the animal, 247 ; of 
nellut, finest obtained, 316 ; of 
buffalo, 364. 

' ^rsemanship, Arab, wonderful ex- 
citement of, 201, 202. 

Horses, purchase of three, cheap- 
ness of, 165 ; saddles and bits of, 
ib. ; swimming across a river, 
256 ; chase of rhinoceros by, 242 
et scq. ; brave advance of one to- 
wards a lion, 286 ; advance of a 
mare in face of an elephant, 295 ; 
lamed by reckless riding of agga- 
geers, 272 ; curious instinct of, 
326 ; epidemic among, 350; death 
of Sir S. Baker's two hunters, 
353. 

Howarti, harpooner of hippopotami, 
renown of, 201 ; exploit of, 228. 

Hunting knives, 365. 

Hunting party, meeting with a 
curious, 370. 

Hunting, a boar, 224 ; buffaloes, 
210, 211; elephants, 173 etseq.,im 
et seq., 206, 207, 217 et seq., 293 
et seq., 323 ct seq. ; lion, difficulty 
of, 162, 277 et seq., 283 et seq. ; 
hippopotami, 29 etseq., 171 etseq. ; 
rhinoceros, 242 et seq., 262, 274 
etseq., S29 et seq. (see Stalki7ig). 

Hysenas, Cassala rich in, 49 ; use- 
fulness of, in clearing away car- 
rion, ib. ; bold nocturnal visit of 
one, 320. 

Hydrophobia, Arab precaution 
against, 113. 

Hygeen, dromedary or riding camel, 
exhibition of, for use of Lady 
Baker, 69 ; pleasure of riding, 
.vhen well trained, 91, 92 ; beauty 
of those provided by Sheik Ata- 
lan Wat Said, 97. 



In'dian ink, sticks of, convenient 
for traveller, 366. 



India-rubber, vulcanized, useless 
in tropical climates, 366. 

Ink, made by Sir S. Baker, from 
garra plant, 357. 

Irrigation, means by which it might 
be improved in Egypt, 382 et seq. ; 
incalculable benefit of, if properly 
carried out, 385 et seq. ; great 
source of civili2ation, 388. 

Island, covered with nabbuk bushes, 
on the Settite river, encampment 
on, 212, 213 ; camp removed 
from, 251. 

Ismael Pasha, son of the Viceroy 
Mehemet Ali Pasha, extortionate 
demand of, from Sheik Mek Nim- 
mur, 96 ; how met, ib. ; death 
of, by burning, as revenge, ib. et 
scq. 

J. 

Jaleen Arabs, flight of, from 
Egyptian territory, and alliance 
with Mek Nimmur, 305. 

Jali, Hamran Arab sword-hunter, 
accompanies Sii* S. Baker's ex- 
pedition into the Base, 202 ; 
wonderful horsemanship of, ib. ; 
elephant killed by, with a sword, 
222 ; leg of, broken by an ele- 
phant, 233 c^ seq. ; gratitude of, 
to Sir S. Baker, for his attention 
while ill, 235; returns to Geera, 
ib. 

Jershooa, intoxicating drink made 
from, 347. 

"Jenna el Wirde" (child of the 
fever), frequency of, as a dis- 
ease among people of Sofi, 108. 

Johann Schmidt, old companion of 
Florian, arrival of, 250 ; object 
of, in joining the hunting party, 
ib. ; engagement of, by Sir S. 
Baker, for White Nile expedi- 
tion, ib. ; grave of, on the banks 
of White Nile, ib. 

Johnstone, Professor, analysis of 
dhurra corn by, 55. 

Jungles, swarming with guinea- 
fowl at Soojalup, 44 ; cooking in, 
148 ; thick at Tooleet, 200 ; 
should be avoided for night 
bivouac, 205 ; enormous height 

D d2 



404 



INDEX. 



of grass in, 210 ; hunting in (see 
Hunting). 
Jusef, Abyssinian merchant, meet- 
ing with, at Gallabat, 340. 



K 



Katartff, arrival at, to procure 
men and a slave, 183 ; hospitable 
reception at, by Michel Georgis, 
184 ; bazaar at, ib. ; scenes at 
the market of, 185. 

Khartoum, exhausting march to, 
374 ; different appearance of, on 
a nearer view, 375 ; meeting with 
Herr Yon Heugiin at, 367 ; stay 
at, preparing for the "White Nile 
expedition, 378 ; unheal thiness 
of, 380 ; sail fi'om, in search of 
the White Nile source, 389. 

Kisra, bread made in Arabia, grind- 
ing of corn for, 54 ; preparation 
of, 55. 

Kittar bush, nickname of, 70 ; con- 
sequences of a charge through, 
71, 197 ; impervious as a fence 
round encampment, 253 ; disas- 
trous rush through, in flight from 
a rhinoceros, 262, 263. 

Kook, small village on the banks of 
the Eahad, arrival at, 357. 

Koran, supposed power of, in cases 
of illness, 108 ; use made of, by 
Fakeers, ib. ; pork forbidden by, 
as food, 114. 

Kordofan, finest gum arabic found 
in, 51 ; inhabitants of, prized as 
slaves, 186 ; scarcity of water m, 
241. 

Korosko, arrival at, 3 ; halting- 
place for all vessels with mer- 
chandise for the Soudan, ib. ; de- 
scription of, ib. ; departure from, 
4. 

Kunana Arabs, camp of, on the 
Dinder river, 357. 



Ladies, visit of, to Lady Baker at 
Berber, 16 ; dresses of, ib. ; con- 
versation of, ib. ; influence of, 
over their husbands. 



Landmarks, natural, 42, 327, 353. 

Language, ignorance of Arabic, 
makes a small party desirable, 4 ; 
determination of Sir S. Baker to 
learn, 15 ; Tigre, Bibles printed 
in, 342. 

Lead, Mek Nimmur's preference of, 
to gold, 312. 

Leather, bottles of, for water, direc- 
tions about, 10; manner of. tan- 
ning, 124. 

Leopard, snake killed by a, 154 ; 
carries off" a goat and a dog at Om- 
brega, 205 ; unpleasantness of, at 
the English Consulate at Khar- 
toum, 377. 

Lice, 84. 

Lime, procured from oyster-shells, 
for making soap, 287. 

Limestone, first seen at Geera, 167 ; 
beautiful colours of the cliffs on 
the Settite river, ib. ; fine grey, 
found near Katariff, ] 86 ; beauti- 
ful colours of, found on the way 
from Ombrega to Mek Nimmur's 
district, 304. 

Lion, visit of a, to Sir S. Baker's 
tent, 161 ; danger of, to horses in 
a jungle, 213 ; sudden appearance 
of a lioness, close to the camp, 
252 ; roaring of, over a dead 
buffalo, 214 ; Florian killed by a, 
251 ; feeding on carcase of buffalo, 
280 ; tracking of, near Della- 
dilla, 279 et seq. ; escape of, 
through indecision of Tokroori 
gim-bearers, 281 ; lioness killed, 
282 ; difficulty of bagging, 282 ; 
continued hunting of, 284 ef seq. ; 
fury of, on being attacked, ib. ; 
grand appearance of, in the jun- 
gle, 285 ; fear of men, 282 ; one 
carried to Lady Baker in the 
camp, 287 ; fat of, used for lamps, 
ib. ; parts of, valued as amulets, 
ib. 

Lucifer matches, danger of, in dry, 
tropical weather, 366. 

M. 

Maariff (Hippotragus Bakexii), 
largest of all the antelopes of 



INDEX. 



405 



Abyssinia and Central Africa, de- 
scription of, 322 ; agreed to be a 
new species by Herr Vou Heug- 
lin, 367 ; most difficult of all 
animals to stalk, 322. 

Mahomet, the dragoman, peculiar 
character of, 19 ; influence of 
hardships on his temper, 20 ; 
feigns deafness, ih. ; his pa- 
roxysms of rage, 20, 21 ; family 
pride of, 57, 58 ; his wife, 58 ; 
bitten by a scorpion, 72 ; fear of 
crossing the river, 141 ; fury at 
his relative's flight, 142 ; dan- 
gerous illness of, 143 ; interprets 
for Sir S. Baker, 187 ; his terror 
of the lions, 214 ; his terror of 
the Base, 215, 264 ; reassuring 
avowal to Lady Baker of his 
military tactics, 264 ; deserts the 
party, 289 ; impertinence of, 288. 

Mai Gubba, head-quarters of Mek 
Mmmur, 97 ; destruction of, by 
Egyptian troops, 300. 

Malem Georgis, Greek merchant at 
Cassala, hospitality of, 49 ; ferry- 
boat across Atbara river, belong- 
ing to, 63 ; cotton farm of, at 
Goorashee, ib. 

Manchester, goods from, sold at 
Katariff" bazaar, 184. 

Marabou Stork, plucking of, 175 ; 
feed with vultures, 334 ; pecu- 
liarities of, ib. ; very numerous 
beside the Nile tributaries, 336. 

March, proper arrangement of, 92 
et seq. ; pleasures of, 92 ; ex- 
hausting, from Koumele to Rahad 
river, 352 ; food suitable for, 370 
et seq. 

Mareotis Lake, made use of by an- 
cient Egyptians as a reservoir, 
382 

Maria Theresa, favourite coin among 
Arabs, 120 ; regret of Sir S. 
Baker in parting with one, 308. 

Market, of Katariff", 184 et seq. ; of 
Gallabat, 339. 

Masara (Sarah), a slave hired at 
Soft, 146 ; good character of, 
147 ; aff"ection for her daughter, 
ib. 

Ma Serdi stream, 314. 



Mat, elephant's ear used as, 360. 

Matrimony among Arabs, how coji- 
ducted, 86 et seq. 

Meat, dried, usefulness of, 363 ; pre- 
serving, 366. 

Mehemet Ali Pasha, conquest by, of 
Hadendowa Arab tribe, 43 ; erec- 
tion by, of barrage between Cairo 
and Alexandria, 382. 

Mek Nimmur, chief of Shendy, 
meaning of name, 96, 97 ; Is- 
mael Pasha's extortionate demand 
from, 96 ; revenge of, ib. ; ter- 
ritory given to, by king of Abys- 
sinia, 97. 

Mek Nimmur, son of Mek Nimmur, 
chief of Shendy, continual raids 
made by, against the Egyptian 
frontier, 96, 97 ; desire of Sir 
S. Baker to obtain an introduc- 
tion to, 168 ; sudden invasion by, 
189 ; several tribes friendly to, 
189; warlike tactics of, -ift. ; situ- 
ation of his territory, 191 ; invi- 
tation sent by, to Sir S. Baker, 
ib. ; friendship of, with Theodore, 
king of Abyssinia, 190, 301 ; vil- 
lages belonging to, destroyed by 
Egyptians, 300 ; retreats to the 
mountains, ib. ; meeting with a 
party of his men on a foray, 302 ; 
encampment on the district of, 
303, 304 ; lawlessness of the so- 
ciety there, how caused, 305 ; 
civilities of, to Sir S. Baker, 306, 
311 ; conversation with, and re- 
quest of, to Sir S. Baker, ib. ; 
desire of, to be at peace with 
Egyptian government, ib. ; cau- 
tions Sir S. Baker against drink- 
ing the water in the district, ib. ; 
present sent to, failure of, 312 ; 
polite behaviour of, on the occa- 
sion, 313 ; dej)arture from the 
territory of, 314 ; proposals of, 
rejected by Moosa Pasha, 378. 

Melons, withered, found in Nubian 
desert, bitter taste of, 6 ; medi- 
cinal use of, by Arabs, ib. ; bed 
of, destroyed by hippopotamus, 
27. 

Menagerie, at the English consulate 
at Khartoum, 877 et seq. 



4UG 



INDEX. 



Metemma, (see Gallahai), sigaiiica- 
tiou of term, 344. 

Michel Georgis, Greek mercliaiit, 
nephew of Malem Georgis, hos^ 
.pitable reception by, at Katariif, 
184. 

Migi'ation of birds, 159 ; of people, 
76 ; a village deserted in conse- 
quence of, 356. 

Milk, abundance of camels', 74 ; 
Arab way of preparing and using, 
excellent eftect of, on delicate 
patients, 75 ; carried by women 
in baskets, 125. 

Mimosa, appearance of, 70 ; magi- 
cal growth, of the buds of, how 
accounted for, 39 ; hooked thorns 
of, 70 ; kittar bush, the worst 
species of, ih. ; use of fibre and 
bark, 122 ; fruit of, 123. 

Mini, old Arab camel-driver, rob- 
bery of dollars by, 349 ; how dis- 
covered, 349 et seq. 

Mina, species of bird, black colonies 
of, 153. 

Minerals, gold in the sand of At- 
bara, 67 ; gold mines at Fazogle, 
ih. ; large quantities of valuable, 
to be found through Abyssinian 
mountains, 305 ; lead found in 
the ravines, 312. 

Minstrels, visits from, while en- 
camping in Mek Nimmur's terri- 
tory, 307, 308 ; subject of their 
song, 307; payment expected by, 
308. 

Mirage, Egyptian troops destroyed 
by following a, in the Nubian 
desert, 10. 

Missionaries, two German, met at 
Gallabat, 341 ; opinion regarding 
the inexpediency of present work 
of, in Abyssinia, ih. et seq. ; ill- 
ness of one, 342. 

Moorahd, sufferiags of men and 
camels on the route to, 7, 8 ; 
bitterness of water at, 4 ; descrip- 
tion of the mournful appearance 
of, 7 ; "camel's grave" at, ih. ; 
crows attracted to, ib. ; heat of, 
8 et seq. ; dreadful route from, 
to Abou Hammed, 9, 10. 

Moosa, an old fortune-teller, his 



power of frightening the Tok- 
rooris, 236. 

Moosa Pasha, Governor- General of 
the Soudan, rejection of Mek 
Nimmur's overtures by, 378 ; 
declares his intention of giv- 
ing Abyssinians a lesson, ih. ; ac- 
knowledges England's power as 
a protector, ih. ; starts to drive 
the Abyssinians from Gallabat, 
379._ 

Mosquitoes and other insects, miser- 
able night caused by, 148. 

Music, character of Arab, 139 ; love 
of, ih. ; at Mek ISTimmm-'s encamp- 
ment, 307 et seq. 

Musk, obtained from crocodiles, 
&Q ; in favour with Arab, women, 
82. 

Mystery of the Nile, a clue obtained 
to, 37 ; dispelled, 381. 



N. 

Nabbtjk Bushes [Rhamnus lotn^), 
arbour of, 157 ; jungles of, how 
produced in the Settite valley, 
212 ; an island covered with, ih.-y 
fruit of, useful preserved, 249. 

Nahoot Guddabi, mountain, unmis- 
takeable landmark, 327. 

Nails, rusty, used in making ink, 
357. 

Names, common, in Arabia, 19. 

Natron, water impregnated Avith, 
304. 

Nellut, [A. Strepsiceros), a kind of 
antelope, killing of, 255, 316 ; 
horns of, finest seen, 316. 

Night, in the desert, charms of, 7, 
25 ; thunderstorm during, 72 ; 
alai-m by sudden rising of the 
Atbara during, 36 etseq. ; a miser- 
able, 148 ; temperature of, 127, 
379. 

Nile, hills on the banks of, 1 ; 
vestiges of ancient forts on either 
side, ih. ; appearance of, at Ko- 
rosko, 3 ; commencement of search 
for sources of, ih. ; departure from, 
5 ; return to, 11 ; slow rising of, 
16 ; course of, through the desert, 



IXBEX. 



40 



marked by fringes of buslies, 21 ; 
clue obtained to the mystery of, 
37, 381 ; tributaries of, 191 ; con- 
nexion between varieties of fish 
and reptiles in, 254 ; sudden rise 
of, caused by mountain drainage, 
271 ; etfect on, of other river tor- 
rents, 317, 321 ; no attempt made 
to secure a supply of water from, 
for all seasons, 382 ; method 
in which the land might be irri- 
gated by, ib. et seq. ; possible 
future blessing of, to the country, 
384. 

Xomadic habits of Arabs, 88 ; food 
suited for, 364. 

Nubia, Arab tribes of, 79. 

Nubian desert, route across, from 
Korosko, 4 ; solitude of, 5 ; vol- 
canic hills in, ib. ; route through, 
to Moorahd, ib. et seq. ; wave -like 
appearance of, 6 ; charm of the 
night in, 7 ; Egyptian troops lost 
in, by following a mirage, 10, 11 ; 
farthest limit of, reached and 
passed, 43 ; frontier of, marked 
by the landmark of Gozerajup, 
ib. ; dreariness of, ib. ; present 
daily life in, a mirror of the past, 
90. 



0. 



Old Testament, similarity of de- 
scriptions in, to present life among 
the Arabs, 87, 89 ; great interest 
of studying, while searching in 
the East, 89 et seq. 

Olivine, crystals of, found in basalt, 
271. 

Ombrega, name "mother of the 
thorn," 204; beautiful situation 
of, ib. ; bivouac at, ib. ; camp 
robbed during the night by a 
leopard, 205 ; second arrival at, 
and bivouac under tamarind trees, 
301 ; meeting with party of Mek 
Nimmur's men on a foray at, 302 
ct seq. 

Onions, best substitute for meat, 
mode of cooking, 61. 

Ostriches, attempt to shoot, 273 ; 



ill the English Consulate at Khar- 
toum, 377. 

Owat, Sheik of the Hamran tribe, 
191. 

Oysters, numerous in beds of Atbara 
and Settite rivers, 158 ; lime made 
from shells of, 287. 

Oxen, prices of, 356. 

Ox-hides, purchase of, for coverlets 
for bivouac, 350. 



P. 



Palms, on the banks of the Nile, 
372. 

Paper, effect on, of simoom, 12 ; 
should be tinted for use in tro- 
pical climates, 366. 

Partridges (see Francolin Par- 
tridges). 

Patriarch, a desert (see Sheik Achmet 
Ahmo Sinn). 

Perfumery, Arab women's love of, 
81 ; peculiar mode of using, ib. 

Petlierick, Mr., English Consul at 
Khartoum, absence of, in search 
of Speke and Grant, 376. 

Pliilos, ruins, peculiar situation of, 
1 ; misery of the land in the 
vicinity of, 2. 

Pigeons, shooting, at Gozerajup, 40. 

Pigs, two rhinoceros disturbed by, 
329 ; forbidden to be eaten by the 
Koran, 114. 

Pilgrimages of Tokrooris to Mecca, 
the cause of their settlement at 
Gallabat, 344. 

Pipe, "chibbook," of the Turks, 
want of, as a camp luxury, 105. 

Pistols, bursting of a pair of, sent as 
a present to Mek Nimmur, 312, 

Plague, causes of, 111 ; frequent 
appearance of, among pilgrims, 
ib. 

Poisonous, plant {Asclepias gigan- 
tea), 22 ; quality of water, 311. 

Polygamy, Wat el Negur's discus- 
sion on, 178 c^ seq. 

Pomade, Arab, 81. 

Pools, of Atbara river, largest at 
Collodobad, 26 ; asylums for all 
animals in time of drought, 25 ; 



408 



INDEX. 



danger of drinking the water left 

in, 183. 
Prayei's, evening, of the Arabs, 47. 
Priesthood, fears of being influenced 

against all European's, by their 

dislike to the missionaries, 341. 
Pyramids, designs for, taken from 

hills in the desert, 1-0. 
Python (see Boa Constrictor), 



Q. 



QuiCKSiLVEE, use of, in making 
bullets, 193 ; large supply of, 
necessary to African traveller, 
366. 

Quinine, cure of fever by, 49. 



R. 



Rahad Riter, exhausting march 
to, eagerness of the men for drink 
on reaching, 353 ; hshing in, ih. ; 
inferiority of, as a Xile tributary, 
354 ; monotony of the banks of, 
ih. ; plentifulness of corn near, 
355; country round, a mine of 
wealth, if planted with cotton, 
ih. ; exhausting march along the 
banks of, 356; flies torture the 
camels, ih. 

Rabat, Arab kilt worn by women, 
85. 

Rains, commencement of, 16 ; 
sources of the Nile, 38 ; fii'st ex- 
perience of, with thunderstorm, 
42 ; disadvantages of, to the tra- 
veller, ib. ; deluge of, 72 ; mi- 
gration of people and camels 
caused by, 73 et seq. ; daily 
storms of, 93, 106 ; tremendous 
deluge of, 1-02 ; efi'eet of, on the 
soil, 106, 123 ; time of ceasing, 
127 ; last of the season, 142 ; 
absolute dependence may be placed 
on the periodical return of, 371. 

Rapids, on Settite river, accident to 
two Arab girls on, 166 ; extra- 
ordinary escape of one, 167. 

Ras el Feel, "elephants head," 
mountain, 338. 



Regly plant, salad of, 120. 

Reilly rifle, great power of, 199. 

Relics, Arab fondness for, 109 ; 
danger of, 110 et seq. 

Religion, strong feeling for, among 
Arabs, 89, 90 ; unchanged belief 
regarding, of Arabs, 90 ; discus- 
sions on, with Fakeers, 181. 

Reservoirs for the Nile water, advan- 
tages of being formed throughout 
Egypt, 383. 

Reveet, food obtained from ele- 
phants, usefulness of, during a 
long march, 362. 

Revenues of Upper Egypt, how 
might be increased, 347. 

Rhinoceros, descriptions of the 
varieties of, 246 et seq ; teeth of, 
peculiar, 247 ; horns of, protec- 
tion to the animal, 247 ; exciting 
chase after, 242 et seq. ; seven 
huntsmen fairly beaten by, 245 ; 
enjoyment of the run, 246 ; 
manner of trapping, 248 e^ seq. ; 
dangerous proximity to, and flight 
from two, 262 e^ seq. ; tracking 
and encounter with, 274 et seq. ; 
detaching the hide, 276 ; shooting, 
299, 329 et seq. 

Richarn, Florian's black servant, 
133 ; wounded by a boar, 224. 

"Rifle and Hound in Ceylon," de- 
scription of habits of elephants 
given in, 359. 

Rifles, carried by Sir S. Baker, 104 ; 
cleaning of, 303 ; pro\'idential 
escape of Sir S. Baker from av 
accident by blowing up of one, 
ih. 

Rivers of Abyssinia explored by Sir 
S. Baker, 191 ; character of all, 
371. 

Robbery, by Aciimet, the dragoman's 
"relative," 141; by Mini, the 
camel-driver, of "Wat Gamma's 
dollars, 348 ; Sir S. Baker's plan 
of discovering, ib. 

Rocks, varieties and appearance of, 
254 ; of basalt, 271 ; one still re- 
maining placed as a seat by Sir 
S. Baker, 103. 

Roofar tribe, civility of, 355. 

Roumele, last village between Gal- 



INDEX. 



409 



labat and river Eahad, arrival at, 
352 ; scarcity of water at ib. ; 
death of Gazelle and Aggahr near, 
353. 

Koute from Korosko to Abou Ham- 
med, closed by order of Said Pasha, 
11 ; reopened on application by 
foreign consuls, t5.; time occupied 
in, ih. ; sufferings of, ih. 

Eoyan river, tributary of the Nile, 
arrival at, 289 ; description of, 
290, 292 ; encampment near, ih. ; 
description of effect of rain on 
country near, ib. ; its junction 
with tibe Settite, frightful scene 
at, in rainy Aveather, 298 ; rapid 
course of, ib. ; effect of, on the 
Nile, 317. 

Rufaar, head-quarters of Sheik Abou 
Sinn, 372 ; kind reception at, ib. 



S. 



Sackifices of Arabs, peculiarity of, 
138 ; relics of the ancient rite, 
94. 

Saddles of Arabs, 165. 

Sageer, water-wheel of the Nile, 
372 ; tax on, 380 ; insufficiency 
of, for the work required, 381. 

Sahara, why a desert, 387. 

Said Pasha, ordered route between 
Korosko and Abou Hammed to 
be closed, 11. 

Salaam river, tributary of the Nile, 
191 ; assistance given by Mek 
Nimmur in exploring, 311 ; arrival 
at, 315 ; similarity of, to the 
Settite, lb. ; encampment on the 
bank of, ib. ; destructive effect of 
water seen on the rocky banks of, 
317 ; effect of, on the Nile, ih. 

"Salaam aleikum," Arab saluta- 
tion, 75. 

Sand-banks, only means of cultiva- 
tion at Assouan, 2. 

Sand columns, causes and curious 
effects of, 17 ; Arab superstitions 
connected with, ib. ; exaggerated 
dread entertained of, by Bruce, 
ih. 

Sand-grouse, cry of, in the desert, 
21 ; worthlessness of, as game, 22. 



Scarifying the cheeks, custom of, 
among Arabs, 186. 

Scorpions, bite of, 71 ; discovery 
of a nest of, under the camp, 
brought out by rain, 72. 

Seasons, alternations of, 101, 379 ; 
proper for travelling, 93, 378. 

Secretary bird, Arab name for, 42. 

Senna, where grown, 51 ; camel's 
"bonne bouche," ib. 

Seroot fly, ferocity of, 126 ; torture 
of, 134 ; giraffes attacked by, 129 ; 
disappearance of, 143. 

Sesame grain, oil made from, 35. 

Settite river, tributary of the Nile, 
191 ; course through Base country, 
55 ; junction with the Atbara, 
94 ; principal stream of Abys- 
sinia, 95 ; excm-sion of Sir S. 
Baker to, from Ehetilla, 147 et 
seq. ; bivouac near, 166 ; beauty 
of the country near, 226 ; beautiful 
appearance of, at the pass between 
the cliffs of Geera, 166 ; appear- 
ance of, where joined by the Hor 
Mehetape, 271 ; effect of, on the 
Nile, 317 ; creates the Delta of 
Lower Egypt, 338 ; a new Egypt 
created by deposits from, ib. 

Sheik Achmet Abou Sinn, the great 
Arab patriarch in authority over 
all the other denominations of 
Arabs, 52 ; visit of, to Sir S. 
Baker, 76 ; magnificent appear- 
ance of, ib. ; hospitality of, ib. ; 
his encampment in the desert, 
77 et seq. ; his reception of Sir 
S. Baker, 108 ; his retinue, ib. ; 
advice given by, 78 ; enormous 
consumption of butter by, 80 ; 
his ten sons, 77 ; his last mar- 
riage, 80 ; departure from the 
encampment of, 91 c^ seq. 

Sheik Achmet Wat el Negur, chief 
of Wat el Negur, wise policy of, 
168 ; particular request of, to Sir 
S. Baker, 169 ; hospitality and 
character of, ih. ; visits of, to the 
camp, 178 ; discussions with, and 
opinions of, about women, Eng- 
land, &c. &c. 178 et seq. ; duties of 
the four wives of, 180 ; surprise 
of, on hearing that Sir S. Baker 



410 



INDEX. 



had only one wife, 178 ; protects 
Sir S. Baker's property from Mek 
Nimmur, 189 ; taken leave of, 
194. 

Sheik Ali, grandson of Sheik Abon 
Sinn, sent as guide to Sir S. 
Baker, 91. 

Sheik Atalau Wat Said, chief of the 
Dabainas tribe, 93 ; reception by, 
94 ; invitation of, 95 ; escort of, 
to Sofi, 97 ; promises of assist- 
ance from, 99 ; death of, how 
caused, 155. 

Sheik Hassan bel Kader, chief of 
Sofi, cured of fever by Sir S. 
Baker, 112 ; celebrated hippo- 
potamus hunter, 159. 

Sheik Jemma, chief of Gallabat, 
illness of, from impure water, 
343 ; a Tokroori, ih. ; his coldness 
on reading the firman, reasons 
for, ih. ; requests goat's milk, 
ib, ; promises to assist in pro- 
curing fresh camels and men, ih. ; 
way in which he became sheik by 
help of Theodore, king of Abys- 
sinia, 344 ; declared by Theodore 
sheik over all Tokrooris, ih. 

Sheik Moosa, of the Hadendowas, 
imprisonment of, 52. 

Sherif el Ibrahim, large village, ex- 
cursion to, 166 ; productiveness 
of land near, ih. 

Sherifi's, four famous brothers, 
Hamran hunters, accompany the 
hunting expedition, 191, 240. 

Sheriflf, Roder, one of four famous 
brother hunters, maimed con- 
dition of, 192 ; feats of, 243 ei 
seq., 295. 

Sheriff, Taher, one of four famous 
brother hunters, feats of, 243, 
245, 293 et seq. 

Sherrem, large village on the Rahad, 
meeting of the men with their 
families at, 356 ; rest at, for two 
days, ih. 

Shields, Arab, made of giraffe and 
rhinoceros skins, 115. 

Shoes, necessity for strong, on ac- 
(^.ount of the thorny grass, 125 ; 
pair of Highland shooting, of 
great value, 164. 



Shookeriyahs, one of the most 
powerful tribes of Upper Egypt, 
from which Sheik Abou Sinn de- 
scended, 79. 

Signor Georgis, Greek army doctor, 
at Cassala, his kindness to Sir 
S. Baker, 49. 

Silk, vegetable, produced from As- 
clepias gigantea plant, 22. 

Simoom, in Nubian desert, 6 ; damage 
done by, 12, 38. 

Slaves, obtained by plunder of the 
Base country, 5Q ; Masara, or 
Sai-ah, one hired at Sofi, 146 ; 
purchase of Barrake, 187 ; con- 
sidered necessary by Arab women, 
86 ; inhabitants of Kordofan 
prized as, 186 ; proprietor's care 
of, ih. ; beauty of those brought 
from Galla, 349. 

Soapmaking, 287 ; lime necessary 
for, how obtained, ih. ; fruit of 
hegleek tree used by Arabs as, 
249. 

Sofi, arrival at, 98 ; des(3ription of, 
99 ; residence at, during rainy 
season, 105 et seq. ; permanent 
camp bought at, 102 ; description 
of an "eligible freehold" within 
a minute's walk of, ih. ; German 
settler met at, 98 ; extracts from 
Journal, descriptive of life at, 
120 et seq. ; laws of, 124 ; resolve 
to leave, 139. 

Soojalup, first watering place on the 
route to Cassala, arrival at, 44 ; 
description of country round, ih. ; 
contrivance for watering cattle at, 
ih. ; Ariel {Gazelle Dama) first 
seen at, ih. ; jungles round, 
swarming with guinea-fowl, ih. ; 
departure from, 45. 

Soorit (see Acacia Arahicd), 358. 

Souakim, route to Cassala by way 
of, 50 ; present uncertainty of 
steamers arriving at, ih. ; mer- 
chants afraid of delay and high 
warehouse charges at, ih. ; value 
of direct steam communication 
between, and Suez, 185. 

Soudan, exports of 51, 380 ; prin- 
cipal towns of, 51 ; annexation 
of, to Egypt, necessary, 59 ; 



lyjjEX. 



411 



fertility of, 53 ; cheapness of 
grain in, ib. ; governor-general 
of, orders Mek Nimmur's terri- 
toiy to be invaded, 300 ; Egyptian 
troops in, 379 ; aspect of wretched- 
ness, 380. 

Spar, immense quantities of heau- 
tifiil, on the hills, on the route 
from Ombrega. 304. 

Spinach, wild, 1 20. 

Stalking, Avild asses, 39 ; Ariel [G. 
Dama), 59 ; antelopes, 45 ; nellut 
{A. Strepsiceros). 255 ; tetel (A. 
Bubalis), 149, 209 ; giraffes, 129, 
133 (see Hunting). 

Storks, curious hunting party met, 
of common black and white, 
370. 

Suleiman, one of the aggageers 
(sword-hunters) of the party, 201. 

Sunstroke, slight attack of, Bacheet, 
on the march from Rataan to 
Khartoum, 374. 

Swords, principal weapon used by 
aggageers, 114 ; value of, to xb-abs, 
116 ; description of, ib. ; manner 
of hunting with, 118 ; danger of, 
to the hunter himself, 119 ; ele- 
phant killed by one, when shot 
failed, 222. 

Sycamore {Fiats sycamor us), tempt- 
ing shade of, 340. 

Syj^hilis, common throughout the 
country, 159. 

Syringe, necessity of, to the tra- 
veller, 366. 



Taccazzy, Ab3'ssinian name for 

Settite river, 95. 
Taher Noor, game-tracker accom- 
panying the hunting expedition, 

196, 201. 
Taka countiy, situation of, 42 ; pic- 

turesqueness of, 50 ; productions 

of, ib. 
Tamarind trees, baboons occupying, 

121 ; bivouac under, at Ombrega, 

301. 
Tarpaulin, necessity of, totraNcllers, 

366. 



Tarboosh (cap) presented to one of 
Mek Nimmur's men, 302.' 

Tathani, all fire-arms with the 
name, burst, 312. 

Taxes, equal on rich and poor dis- 
tricts, 2 ; bad effect of, in pre- 
venting cultivation of land, 53 ; 
injustice of tax-collectors, ib. ; 
paid by Tokrooris to the King 
of Abyssinia, 343, 345 ; onerous', 
on the water-wheel of the JSTile, 
380. 

Temperature of the different spots 
visited, 379 ; in the desert, 4, 5, 
12. 

Temples, ruins of, on the banks of 
the Nile, 2. 

Tetch, intoxicating di'ink of the 
Arabs, 347. 

Tetel, species of antelope, hide of, 
valuable as leather, 124 ; shoot- 
ing, 132, 136 ; men and cargo 
floated across the river by means 
of the waterproof skin of a, 137 ; 
bull killed by Abou Do, the ag- 
gageer, 209. 

Tetel, name of trained hunter pur- 
chased by Sir S. Baker, 165 ; 
brave advance of, in face of a 
lion, 286. 

Theodore, king of Abyssinia, ad- 
vantages to, of Mek Nimraurs 
frontier warfare, 190 ; friendship 
of, with Mek Nimmur, 190, 301 ; 
dislike of, to missionaries, 341 ; 
grants permission to the Tok- 
rooris to settle in his country, 
345 ; places Sheik Jemma in 
l^ower, in opposition to Egyptian 
government, 344 ct seq. ; quarrels 
with Moosa Pasha, and is threat- 
ened by him, 379 e^ scq. 

Thorns, caused by grass drying, 
suffering from, 161 ; kittar bush, 
70 ; name "mother of the thorn," 
204. 

Thunder, first time heard in Africa, 
42 ; efi'ects of a storm of, 63 ; 
halt caused by, 72 etseq. 

Tick, insect inhabiting sand and 
dust, supposed connexioji of, with 
the P]gyptian plague of lice, 84. 

Till, rivulet, tributary of Atbara, 



412 



INDEX. 



exhaustion of, by tlie fall of tlie 
Atbara, and retirement of fish 
from, 144 ; source of, 166. 

Tobacco, sowing of, 161 ; planta- 
tions of, 255 ; production of, on 
the banks of the Rahad, 354. 

Toganai, camp for a night at, 338 ; 
evening scene, last view of At- 
bara river from, ih. ; start from, 
339. 

Tokrooris, tribe of Mahometan 
negroes, six servants engaged, to 
accompany Sir S. Baker's hunt- 
ing expedition, 186 ; start with 
him, ih. ; seized with panic, de- 
sire to desert, 236 e^ seq. ; check- 
mated by Sir S. Baker, 238 ; 
country inhabited exclusively by, 
337 ; wonder of some, on hear- 
ing of the ex^Dloits in the Base 
country, ih. ; natives of Darfur, 
344 ; appearance of, 345, 346 ; 
taxes paid by, 343 ; industry of, 
345 ; weapons of, 346 ; bad as 
servants, 345 ; how settled at 
Gallabat, 344 ; cotton produced 
by, 346 ; women of the tribe, 
ih. ; much might be done for im- 
provement of, ib. ; permission 
granted to, by Theodore, to settle 
in his territory, 345 ; farewell 
entertainment given to, 347 ; Sir 
S. Baker parts with the servants, 
350 ; unprovoked insolence of 
natives of a Tokroori village, 
S51 et seq. ; a fight with, ih. 

Tom at, head-quarters of Atalan 
Wat Said, interesting appearance 
of, 93. 

Tool-box, contents of necessary to 
a traveller, 168. 

Tracking, of elephants, 196 et seq., 
206, 217 et seq. ; of rhinoceros, 
274 ; of lions, 280 ; of elephants, 
293. 

Travelling, hints for comfort in, 364 
et seq. ; articles useful for, in 
tropical climates, 366. 

Turtle, struggle with a, while fish- 
ing, in Atbara pool, 32 ; appear- 
ance of, in water, 33 ; guitar 
made of shell of, 139 ; omelette 
made of eggs of, 253; soup of, ih. 



Turkish soldiers, procured as escorts 
at Berber, 18. 

Tusks, absence of, in Ceylon ele- 
phants, 359 ; difiicult to obtain 
an eoioct pair of, 361. 



U. 



Umbrellas (carriage), description 
of, necessary for travelling, 366. 



V. 



"Valley of dry bones" at Moor- 
ahd, 7. 

Vegetables, wild, great abundance 
of, 154. 

Vogel, Dr. , search for, by Herr Von 
Heuglin, 367. 

Volcanic bombs, resembling cannon 
shot, in the N'ubian desert, 5. 

Volcanic hills in Nubian desert, 5. 

Vultures, sudden descent of, 60 ; 
question, Avhether attracted by 
vision or by smell, 333 ; difierent 
species of, 334 ; interesting ex- 
periments in watching, 334 et 



W. 

Wages, not high, 57. 

Waker, wild vegetable, in great use 
among Arabs, soup of, 154 ; well 
known in India and Ceylon, 
under difi"erent names, ih. 

Wat el jN"egur, village, 165 ; reasons 
why desirable for encampment, 
168 ; wisdom of the sheik of, 
ib. ; capabilities of the country 
round, for cultivation, 169 ; ele- 
phant hunting at, 173 et seq. ; 
pleasant life at, 181 et seq. ; dis- 
cussions with the sheik of, 178 
et seq. ; preparations made at, for 
the hunting expedition. 193; start 
from, to explore the Base coun- 
try, 194. 

Water, evaporation of, from skins, 
by blast of simoom, 4 ; scarcity 
of, at Moorahd, 8 ; after wash- 



INDEX. 



413 



ing, dnink by Arabs, 9 ; con- 
stant supply of, how to ensure, 
25 ; length of time camels can 
endure without, 303 ; poisonous 
nature of, from copper, in Mek 
Nimmur's district, 311 ; destruc- 
tive effect of, on solid rocks, 317 ; 
impurity of, at Gallabat, 340 ; 
great sickness in consequence of 
impure, 343. 

"Waterfall over perpendicular basalt 
columns, appearance of, 336. 

"Water -jar of Arabs, similarity of, 
to those in use a thousand years 
ago, 89. 

"Waterproof sheeting, of use in tra- 
velling, 366. 

"Wat Gamma, young Arab atten- 
- dant procured at Cassala, origin 
of his name, 68 ; consternation 
of, at the failure of the present 
to Mek Ximmur, 312 ; robbed of 
his dollars, 348. 

"Wat Medene, large town, and prin- 
cipal trading place, on the banks 
of the Blue Nile, 371. 

AYeapons, most useful to the hunter, 
104, 365 ; of Hamran Arab sword- 
hunters, 115 et seq. 

AVeaving, Arab method of, 46. 

Weirs, across Eahad and Binder 
rivers, for irrigation, necessity of, 
37] ; across the Nile, advantages 
of forming, 382. 

Welcome, Arab, customs connected 
with, 94, 155 ; magnificence of 



that given by Sheik Abou Sinn 
to Sir S. Baker, 77. 

"Well of Arabs, 90 ; insufficient for 
the cattle, 184. 

Whirlwinds in the desert, sand 
columns raised by, 17 ; nearly 
suffocated by one, 36. 

"White ants, use made of a hill of, 
287. 

"Wliite Nile, resolution to explore, 
388 ; preparations for exploring, 
completed, 389 ; start towards the 
source of, ib. 

"Wild asses, first sight of, 39 ; habits 
and beauty of, ib. ; difficulty of 
capturing, ib. ; first and last 
killed by Sir S. Baker, 40 ; ris- 
soles of the flesh, ib. 

"Willow, species of, on the banks of 
Atbara river, 162. 

Wire, useful to the traveller for 
springs, 366. 

Wives, "VVat el Negur's discussion 
and opinions on, 178 et seq. 

AVoraen, Arab, corn ground by, 
54 ; dislike of all, to the work, 
55 ; their love for perfumery, 
81 ; uncleanness of, 84 et seq. ; 
dress and appearance of, 85, 
180 ; marriage of, 86 ; adher- 
ence of, to ancient customs, '87 ; 
bathing of, 180; AYat el Negur's 
discussion on, 178 ef seq. ; super- 
stitions of, 186 ; ignorance of, 
180 ; plainness and industry of 
Tokroori, 346. 



THE END 







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